Some two hundred miles south of the City of Mexico lies Oaxaca (pronounced Wa-ha-ka). The Valley of Oaxaca was looked upon by the Spanish conquerors2 as El Dorado, the traditional land of gold. The Aztecs told them that the gold of Montezuma came from the sands of the rivers in this and the connecting valleys, and that immeasurable treasure was to be found there. Believing these tales, Cortez secured large grants of land from the crown, and, with the consent and approval of his sovereign, assumed to himself the title of Marquis of the Valley of Oaxaca.
The cupidity3 of the Spaniards led them to employ every subterfuge4 to induce the natives to reveal the source of their plentiful5 supply of gold. The Indians, after considerable urging,—so we are told,—offered to conduct one man to this place, if he would submit to be blindfolded6 for the trip. This was agreed to[112] and the party set out on their journey. Thinking that he would mark the way, the Spaniard dropped a grain of corn every few steps. After they had travelled a long distance, the Spaniard had the bandage removed from his eyes and he was allowed to look around, when he beheld7 such wealth as mortal vision never before had seen. His eyes glittered with the greed of his covetous8 nature, but his countenance9 soon changed when a dusky warrior10 stepped up and handed him a vessel11 which contained every grain of corn that he had dropped by the way. For this reason he was never able to retrace12 his steps to this wonderful region, and the wily Spaniards were again outwitted by the simple natives.
Oaxaca is reached by the Southern Railway which starts at Puebla. This road penetrates13 one of the richest sections of the republic, with abundance of timber and minerals, and unlimited14 beds of onyx and marble. Little of this wealth is seen from the railroad, as this line follows the narrow valleys, through one ca?on into another, furnishing scenery as grandly picturesque15 as the great passes of Colorado. The mountains in places are lifted up thousands of feet with crags and peaks which the storms have cut into fantastic shapes[113] and whose walls drop almost perpendicularly16 to the water’s edge. Then again the ca?on widens, and the panorama17 extends across the valley where gigantic rocks, stained in all colours by the oozings of the metals of the earth, form far-away pictures not unlike the battlements of an ancient fortress18. The sun tinges19 each a different hue20, with deeper tones in the near ones which fade as they approach the horizon, until all seem to blend into the intense blue of the sky.
As the train leaves the City of the Angels, just at daybreak, a wonderful panorama is opened up to view. Look in any direction, and the tiled domes21 of the churches rise above the plain, for each village and hacienda has its own. The forts erected22 on the surrounding hills which are emblematic23 of the force that subjugated24 this valley, are seen, and near them the pyramid of Cholula erected by those who were overcome. Over all tower those mighty25 monuments of nature, the white-capped peaks of Popocatapetl, Ixtaccihuatl, Orizaba and old Malintzi, with the morning sun reflected on their snowy heads. The road ascends26 and descends27, and then ascends again before it takes a dip down into the tierra caliente. A number of native villages are passed but only one town[114] of any size, Tehuacan, noted28 for its mineral springs. It is a pretty little city, and in the centre of a rich agricultural district. The road finally enters a wide, open country with rich valleys which extend to the hills beyond. At last, after a twelve hours’ journey, our train rolls into this occidental Eden.
More than three centuries ago a Spanish writer described Oaxaca as “not very big, yet a fair and beautiful city to behold29, which standeth three-score leagues from Mexico in a pleasant valley.” It is located at the junction30 of three valleys and on the bank of a broad river, which meanders31 through a billowy sea of cornfields toward the Pacific. Whichever way the eye may turn the view is bounded by hills covered with forests. Viewed from one of these hills the city looks like a broad, flat-covered plain of stone buildings above which are seen many domes, and the whole scene has a truly oriental touch.
The people that the Spanish found in possession of these valleys were an industrious32 race. They had tilled the soil centuries before the Spaniards, in their lust33 for gold, despoiled34 these beautiful valleys. There is not a hollow, or knoll35, where it is possible to scrape a little soil with a hoe, that has not at some time been[115] cultivated. These early races had even constructed irrigation works which kept green their fields during the dry season. The rich basins filled with alluvium are now owned by the rich hacendados, or landowners, whose white buildings dot the landscape here and there and, with their trees, orchards36 and cultivated fields, lend life and colour to an otherwise dull prospect37. The poor Indians are forced to work for these landlords who claim title to the land formerly38 owned by their ancestors, or retire to the hills where, well up toward the crests39, they cultivate their little fields of corn and beans. There is one tribe of Indians that dwell in the mountains of Oaxaca who have never acknowledged either Spanish or Mexican sovereignty, and maintain their own tribal40 form of government. They can be seen at Oaxaca on market days.
We find Oaxaca to be a city of about thirty-three thousand people of whom three-fourths or more are Indians. It is laid out with narrow streets, down the centre of which runs a stream of water, from which rise at times odours not the most agreeable. The houses are low and one-storied, with grated windows after the style of architecture introduced by the Spaniards, and by them adopted from the[116] Moors41, who copied it from the Persians. The water supply is abundant, being brought in from the hills by an aqueduct. Fountains are located at numerous places, and a constant succession of Rebeccas with heads enveloped42 in their shawls, and carrying great earthen water-jars pass to and fro from them.
Oaxaca contains many fine churches of which one, Santo Domingo, has been both monastery43 and fortress, and has just been restored at a cost of $13,000,000 (silver) so it is claimed, making it the most costly44 church in Mexico, if not in North America. The gold on the walls was so heavy in former times, that the soldiers quartered here during revolutionary uprisings employed themselves in removing it. This city has been the scene of troublous times, and has been captured and re-captured by the combating forces. It has given to the country two great presidents, Juarez and Diaz, of whom it may well be proud. Of these two men, great in the annals of Mexico, the former was a full-blooded Indian, and the latter has a fair percentage of the same blood in his veins45. A monument to Juarez has been erected, and some day—may it be far distant—when nature has claimed her own, this city will raise a memorial to her still greater son.
THE AQUEDUCT, OAXACA
A FOUNTAIN IN OAXACA
[117]
Oaxaca has a pleasant plaza46, called the Plaza de Armas, adorned47 with various semi-tropical trees and shrubs48, in the centre of which is the ever-present band-stand. The Cathedral and municipal palace face this square. My visit here was during a fiesta and this plaza was the favourite resort of the Indians as well as myself. The Indians living in the hills took undisturbed possession at night, and groups of tired Indios wrapped themselves in their sarapes, or shawls, and stretched their tired limbs out on the cold stones; or propped49 themselves against the walls of a building to rest. A number of catch-penny devices were running during the evening and the favourite seemed to be the phonograph. The Indian would pay his centavo, put the transmitter in his ears and listen without a sign of expression on his stolid50 face. Nevertheless, he enjoyed it, because he would repeat the operation until his stock of coppers51 was considerably53 diminished.
Saturday is market day in this city, and a visit to this popular place is worth a trip to Mexico. The atmosphere of the market is truly oriental, for these people have a genius for trading as the innumerable little stands where crude pottery54, rough-made baskets, home-made dulces, etc., are sold, fully55 proves.[118] The entrance takes one past the dealers56 in fried meats, where bits of pork and shreds57 of beef are dished out sizzling hot to the peons under the big sombreros by women cooks who crouch58 over earthenware59 dishes placed on small braziers containing a charcoal60 fire, and a three course meal can be obtained for a few cents. There is always a crowd around this department, for these people are ever ready to eat, and their capacity is only limited by their purse.
THE MARKET-WOMEN OF OAXACA
THE POTTERY-MARKET, OAXACA
Next is encountered the fruit and vegetable stands. The finest fruits and vegetables, and especially the latter, that I saw in Mexico, were right here in this market and this was in the month of December. Generally the vegetables in Mexico are not large, but here were fine potatoes, great red tomatoes, gigantic radishes and elephantine cabbages. Oranges, bananas, limes, plantains and pineapples were plentiful, as well as the less-known fruits such as zapotes (a kind of melon), aguacates (a pale green fruit and vegetable combined), granaditas, mangoes, granadas and pomegranates. The cocoanut of the hotlands is mingled61 with the dunas, the fruit of the prickly pear, of the higher lands. With these a great many drinks called frescas, or sherbets, are flavoured, the[119] merits of which are announced by the dark-eyed, be-shawled vendors62. The women merchants, many of them smoking cigarettes, sit around on the floor so thick in places that it is almost impossible to work your way through the mixed assortment63 of peppers and babies; corn, lean babies and peas; charcoal, beans and fat babies; naked babies, knives and murderous-looking machetes; hats, laughing babies, shawls and other useful articles; turkeys, crying babies, chickens, dirty babies, ducks, squawking parrots in cages, pigs and other live stock, including babies of all kinds and descriptions.
The pottery market presided over by the solemn-faced, oriental merchants is a never-ending place of interest, and these artistic64 vessels65 are carried over the mountains on the backs of the Indians. Crude baskets and mats made of the palm fibre are found in abundance as well as brooms which bear no union label.
No one could afford to miss the flower department where flowers are so cheap that it seems almost a sin not to buy them. Here are velvety66 sweet peas, purple pansies, tangled67 heaps of crimson68 and white roses, azure69 forget-me-nots, pyramids of heliotrope70 and scarlet71 geraniums. For a few cents one can buy almost[120] a bushel of these, or, if preferred, can substitute marguerites, carnations72, poppies, or violets. An American will probably have to pay twice as much as a native, even after the shrewdest bargaining.
Outside the market enclosure caravans73 of over-loaded donkeys jostle each other as a great solid-wheeled cart yoked74 to a couple of meek-eyed oxen creaks by, or a tram car drawn76 by galloping77 mules78 thunders noisily along to an accompaniment of loud cracks of the whip, and a constant repetition of “mulas” and “arres” the “rrs” being brought out with a long trill.
CROSSING THE RIVER ON MARKET-DAY
The Indian will travel for days on his way to market at Oaxaca. On the day before market I drove out the south road for a number of miles, and the entire distance was literally79 black,—or perhaps it would be better to say brown,—with the natives coming to town bearing the “brown man’s burden,” and travelling along in the middle of the road at a rapid pace. These Indians were coming from the “hot country” farther south and were bringing oranges, bananas, cocoanuts and other kinds of tropical fruits, besides chickens, eggs and other poultry80. Most of them were on foot, though the more fortunate had donkeys[121] to carry the load; but they themselves walked and drove the animal. The women bore large baskets on their heads, which they balanced gracefully81, although sometimes the loads are exceedingly heavy. They will carry one hundred pounds or more in this manner. Frequently a baby is swung across the back as an additional burden. The little mites82 are good natured in this uncomfortable position, and do not make half as much trouble as American babies in their rubber-tired, easy-springed perambulators.
A small pot, a basket of tortillas, a few fagots and plenty of coffee complete the outfit83 of the man. Perhaps the value of his load is not over a dollar or two in gold, but his entertainment along the way costs little, for he sleeps out of doors, carries his food, makes his own coffee and needs to buy nothing except perhaps a little fruit and aguardiente (brandy). The entire family sometimes accompany him, for the wife is afraid to have her man go away alone for fear he may desert her.
On the opposite side of the city from the road just described is another main highway. I stood here for several hours by the river bank on the afternoon of a market-day, when the people were leaving for home. The sight[122] never grew tiresome84 or monotonous85, as there was a constant succession of pictures, which a moving-picture machine alone could adequately portray86. Although there is a bridge across the stream, no one used it, for by making a short cut across the river bed a hundred yards or more was saved. The pedestrian would remove his sandals to wade87 through the shallow water, and then replace them on reaching the opposite bank. The Indians going this way had more burros, and, as their load was disposed of, the family rode. Frequently a poor, diminutive88 burro carried as many persons as could sit on his back, in addition to the large baskets. Many of the great carts drawn by one or two yoke75 of oxen passed this way. The cattle are all yoked by the horns, which seems a cruel way, for their heads are brought down almost to the ground, and it looks as though every jar must cause them suffering.
So this unique panorama continued all the afternoon. I could not think of anything but Palestine, as I gazed at this unceasing procession of donkeys, Egyptian carts, women with their shawls folded and worn on their heads in Eastern fashion; and in the background the white walls, red tiled roofs and domes of the churches of Oaxaca. For a moment I wondered[123] if I were not mistaken, and had suddenly strayed into some corner of the Orient, and found myself involuntarily looking for the mosque89, and listening for the cry of the muezzin calling the faithful to prayer.
A trip around about the valley near Oaxaca only served to strengthen the oriental cast of the picture. The types of buildings, and the signs of water and fertility in the midst of widespread aridity90 (for this was the dry season) are eastern. I saw many flocks of goats herded91 by the solitary92 shepherd in the truly old-fashioned way. Then, a slow-moving team of oxen followed by a peon guiding a one-handled, wooden plough deepens the picture. How powerful must have been the Moorish93 influence in Spain, for this is the plough of Egypt and Chaldea which was carried along the coast of Barbary into Spain, and left there as a heritage to the Spaniards who introduced it into the new world.
Yes, Oaxaca is an El Dorado, a land of treasure to the searcher after the picturesque. The real wealth lies in its delightful94 climate. The temperature is mild and does not vary more than twenty or thirty degrees during the year. The altitude is a little less than five thousand feet and the air is fresh and bracing95. There is[124] also an abundance of good, pure water. Some day this city will be known as a health resort for people from cold climates. They will find relief from the strenuous96 life in quiet, restful, oriental Oaxaca.
There is no more picturesque hacienda in all Mexico than that of Mitla a few miles away. Because of the bleak97 and rough nature of the country it has retained its early characteristics. The little store is a revelation of the simple and primitive98 life of these people. Evening is sure to find Don Felix, or his black-eyed son, behind the counter waiting on the groups of Indians who are constantly coming in to buy a couple of cents worth of mescal, or tequila, or cigarettes. One Indian woman came in to purchase a centavo (one-half cent) of vinegar, another of lard, and others an equal amount of honey, soap, sugar or matches. They would invariably buy only one article at a time, then pay for it and watch the copper52 disappear down a slot in the counter. Outside the door was an old Indian who had brought a load of wood down from the mountain, and the good housewives were noisily bargaining with him for a centavo’s worth of wood, and trying to get an extra stick or two for that sum.
[125]
Bargaining is a part of the education of these people. A young Indian came in hatless and wanted a sombrero (hat). He was shown one with thirty cents worth of brim by the merchant. The Indian offered twenty-eight cents which was accepted and he went away happy over his bargain. An old Indian,—and an old Indian is but a child in worldly wisdom,—brought a large cassava root, which, after considerable haggling99, the merchant purchased for five cents. He bought a package of sixteen cigarettes for three cents and told the young hacendado that he had another “mas grande” (larger), which he would sell for seven cents. He went away but returned in a few minutes with the other root, and looked around at the crowd with a grin. The merchant took it but told him it was “mas chico” (smaller), and he could only allow four cents. The Indian came down to six and the deal was closed at five cents, the same price as the first one was sold for. He bought a glass of mescal for two cents and vanished in the night air, with a smile of complete satisfaction on his face. It is a simple life that these people lead, and the same scenes may be witnessed any day in the year at this little tienda at the Hacienda of Mitla.
[126]
The tender southern skies appear.”
Twilight is very brief in this land. Scarcely has the sun dropped out of sight, when the moon appears on the opposite horizon, almost a counterpart of the former in its descending101 glory. Then the stars appear by hundreds, and myriads102, and the night in all its magnificence is upon you, where, but a few minutes before, was the brightness of day. And the overhanging canopy103 of the heavens seems so much brighter, and clearer, and nearer than in our more northerly land.
As the hour grew late, I wandered forth104 from the little store and walked through the narrow, winding105 streets of the village. It was one of those brilliant tropical nights when the southern skies seemed ablaze106 with the light of innumerable stars, and the Queen of the Night was in her glory. It was such a night as would have appealed to the astronomers107 of old. The streets were silent except for the howling of some dogs near by. The porch of the hacienda was crowded with reclining figures wrapped in their sarapes. A belated traveller came up and with a sigh of relief deposited his load, and joined the sleeping crowd. A match illumed a dark face for a moment as he lit a[127] cigarette. Finally, all voices ceased and quiet reigned108 supreme109. It was a silence as deep and mysterious as that of the ruined city that lay but a few rods away.
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1
occident
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| n.西方；欧美 | |
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conquerors
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| 征服者，占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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cupidity
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| n.贪心，贪财 | |
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subterfuge
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| n.诡计；藉口 | |
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plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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blindfolded
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| v.（尤指用布）挡住（某人）的视线( blindfold的过去式 )；蒙住（某人）的眼睛；使不理解；蒙骗 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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covetous
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| adj.贪婪的，贪心的 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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warrior
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| n.勇士，武士，斗士 | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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12
retrace
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| v.折回；追溯，探源 | |
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penetrates
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| v.穿过( penetrate的第三人称单数 )；刺入；了解；渗透 | |
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unlimited
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| adj.无限的，不受控制的，无条件的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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perpendicularly
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| adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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tinges
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| n.细微的色彩，一丝痕迹( tinge的名词复数 ) | |
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hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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emblematic
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| adj.象征的，可当标志的；象征性 | |
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subjugated
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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ascends
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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meanders
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| 曲径( meander的名词复数 )； 迂回曲折的旅程 | |
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industrious
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| adj.勤劳的，刻苦的，奋发的 | |
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lust
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| n.性(淫)欲；渴(欲)望；vi.对…有强烈的欲望 | |
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despoiled
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knoll
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orchards
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| （通常指围起来的）果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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formerly
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crests
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| v.到达山顶（或浪峰）( crest的第三人称单数 )；到达洪峰，达到顶点 | |
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tribal
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| adj.部族的，种族的 | |
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moors
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| v.停泊，系泊（船只）( moor的第三人称单数 ) | |
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enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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veins
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| n.纹理；矿脉( vein的名词复数 )；静脉；叶脉；纹理 | |
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plaza
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| n.广场，市场 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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propped
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| 支撑，支持，维持( prop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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stolid
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| adj.无动于衷的，感情麻木的 | |
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coppers
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| 铜( copper的名词复数 )； 铜币 | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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pottery
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| n.陶器，陶器场 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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dealers
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| n.商人( dealer的名词复数 )；贩毒者；毒品贩子；发牌者 | |
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shreds
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| v.撕碎，切碎( shred的第三人称单数 )；用撕毁机撕毁（文件） | |
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crouch
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| v.蹲伏，蜷缩，低头弯腰；n.蹲伏 | |
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earthenware
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| n.土器，陶器 | |
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charcoal
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| n.炭，木炭，生物炭 | |
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61
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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vendors
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| n.摊贩( vendor的名词复数 )；小贩；（房屋等的）卖主；卖方 | |
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assortment
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| n.分类，各色俱备之物，聚集 | |
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artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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velvety
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| adj. 像天鹅绒的, 轻软光滑的, 柔软的 | |
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tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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azure
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| adj.天蓝色的，蔚蓝色的 | |
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heliotrope
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| n.天芥菜；淡紫色 | |
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scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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carnations
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| n.麝香石竹，康乃馨( carnation的名词复数 ) | |
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caravans
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| （可供居住的）拖车（通常由机动车拖行）( caravan的名词复数 )； 篷车； （穿过沙漠地带的）旅行队（如商队） | |
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yoked
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| 结合（yoke的过去式形式） | |
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yoke
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| n.轭；支配；v.给...上轭，连接，使成配偶 | |
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76
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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galloping
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| adj. 飞驰的, 急性的 动词gallop的现在分词形式 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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poultry
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| n.家禽，禽肉 | |
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gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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mites
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| n.（尤指令人怜悯的）小孩( mite的名词复数 )；一点点；一文钱；螨 | |
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outfit
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| n.（为特殊用途的）全套装备，全套服装 | |
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tiresome
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| adj.令人疲劳的，令人厌倦的 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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portray
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| v.描写，描述；画(人物、景象等) | |
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87
wade
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| v.跋涉，涉水；n.跋涉 | |
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diminutive
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| adj.小巧可爱的，小的 | |
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mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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aridity
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| n.干旱，乏味；干燥性；荒芜 | |
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herded
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| 群集，纠结( herd的过去式和过去分词 )； 放牧； （使）向…移动 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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moorish
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| adj.沼地的，荒野的，生[住]在沼地的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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bracing
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| adj.令人振奋的 | |
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strenuous
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| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
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bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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haggling
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| v.讨价还价( haggle的现在分词 ) | |
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100
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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101
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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102
myriads
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| n.无数，极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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103
canopy
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| n.天篷，遮篷 | |
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104
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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105
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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106
ablaze
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| adj.着火的，燃烧的；闪耀的，灯火辉煌的 | |
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107
astronomers
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| n.天文学者，天文学家( astronomer的名词复数 ) | |
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108
reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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109
supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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