After breakfast, we bathed in Horse Creek5, a (previously) limpid6, sparkling stream—an appreciated luxury, for it was very seldom that our furious coach halted long enough for an indulgence of that kind. We changed horses ten or twelve times in every twenty-four hours—changed mules7, rather—six mules—and did it nearly every time in four minutes. It was lively work. As our coach rattled8 up to each station six harnessed mules stepped gayly from the stable; and in the twinkling of an eye, almost, the old team was out, and the new one in and we off and away again.
During the afternoon we passed Sweetwater Creek, Independence Rock, Devil’s Gate and the Devil’s Gap. The latter were wild specimens9 of rugged10 scenery, and full of interest—we were in the heart of the Rocky Mountains, now. And we also passed by “Alkali” or “Soda Lake,” and we woke up to the fact that our journey had stretched a long way across the world when the driver said that the Mormons often came there from Great Salt Lake City to haul away saleratus. He said that a few days gone by they had shoveled11 up enough pure saleratus from the ground (it was a dry lake) to load two wagons, and that when they got these two wagons-loads of a drug that cost them nothing, to Salt Lake, they could sell it for twenty-five cents a pound.
In the night we sailed by a most notable curiosity, and one we had been hearing a good deal about for a day or two, and were suffering to see. This was what might be called a natural ice-house. It was August, now, and sweltering weather in the daytime, yet at one of the stations the men could scape the soil on the hill-side under the lee of a range of boulders12, and at a depth of six inches cut out pure blocks of ice—hard, compactly frozen, and clear as crystal!
Toward dawn we got under way again, and presently as we sat with raised curtains enjoying our early-morning smoke and contemplating13 the first splendor14 of the rising sun as it swept down the long array of mountain peaks, flushing and gilding15 crag after crag and summit after summit, as if the invisible Creator reviewed his gray veterans and they saluted16 with a smile, we hove in sight of South Pass City. The hotel-keeper, the postmaster, the blacksmith, the mayor, the constable17, the city marshal and the principal citizen and property holder18, all came out and greeted us cheerily, and we gave him good day. He gave us a little Indian news, and a little Rocky Mountain news, and we gave him some Plains information in return. He then retired19 to his lonely grandeur20 and we climbed on up among the bristling21 peaks and the ragged clouds. South Pass City consisted of four log cabins, one if which was unfinished, and the gentleman with all those offices and titles was the chiefest of the ten citizens of the place. Think of hotel-keeper, postmaster, blacksmith, mayor, constable, city marshal and principal citizen all condensed into one person and crammed22 into one skin. Bemis said he was “a perfect Allen’s revolver of dignities.” And he said that if he were to die as postmaster, or as blacksmith, or as postmaster and blacksmith both, the people might stand it; but if he were to die all over, it would be a frightful23 loss to the community.
Two miles beyond South Pass City we saw for the first time that mysterious marvel24 which all Western untraveled boys have heard of and fully25 believe in, but are sure to be astounded26 at when they see it with their own eyes, nevertheless—banks of snow in dead summer time. We were now far up toward the sky, and knew all the time that we must presently encounter lofty summits clad in the “eternal snow” which was so common place a matter of mention in books, and yet when I did see it glittering in the sun on stately domes27 in the distance and knew the month was August and that my coat was hanging up because it was too warm to wear it, I was full as much amazed as if I never had heard of snow in August before. Truly, “seeing is believing”—and many a man lives a long life through, thinking he believes certain universally received and well established things, and yet never suspects that if he were confronted by those things once, he would discover that he did not really believe them before, but only thought he believed them.
In a little while quite a number of peaks swung into view with long claws of glittering snow clasping them; and with here and there, in the shade, down the mountain side, a little solitary28 patch of snow looking no larger than a lady’s pocket-handkerchief but being in reality as large as a “public square.”
And now, at last, we were fairly in the renowned29 SOUTH PASS, and whirling gayly along high above the common world. We were perched upon the extreme summit of the great range of the Rocky Mountains, toward which we had been climbing, patiently climbing, ceaselessly climbing, for days and nights together—and about us was gathered a convention of Nature’s kings that stood ten, twelve, and even thirteen thousand feet high—grand old fellows who would have to stoop to see Mount Washington, in the twilight31. We were in such an airy elevation32 above the creeping populations of the earth, that now and then when the obstructing33 crags stood out of the way it seemed that we could look around and abroad and contemplate34 the whole great globe, with its dissolving views of mountains, seas and continents stretching away through the mystery of the summer haze35.
As a general thing the Pass was more suggestive of a valley than a suspension bridge in the clouds—but it strongly suggested the latter at one spot. At that place the upper third of one or two majestic36 purple domes projected above our level on either hand and gave us a sense of a hidden great deep of mountains and plains and valleys down about their bases which we fancied we might see if we could step to the edge and look over. These Sultans of the fastnesses were turbaned with tumbled volumes of cloud, which shredded37 away from time to time and drifted off fringed and torn, trailing their continents of shadow after them; and catching38 presently on an intercepting39 peak, wrapped it about and brooded there—then shredded away again and left the purple peak, as they had left the purple domes, downy and white with new-laid snow. In passing, these monstrous40 rags of cloud hung low and swept along right over the spectator’s head, swinging their tatters so nearly in his face that his impulse was to shrink when they came closet. In the one place I speak of, one could look below him upon a world of diminishing crags and canyons42 leading down, down, and away to a vague plain with a thread in it which was a road, and bunches of feathers in it which were trees,—a pretty picture sleeping in the sunlight—but with a darkness stealing over it and glooming its features deeper and deeper under the frown of a coming storm; and then, while no film or shadow marred44 the noon brightness of his high perch30, he could watch the tempest break forth45 down there and see the lightnings leap from crag to crag and the sheeted rain drive along the canyon41-sides, and hear the thunders peal46 and crash and roar. We had this spectacle; a familiar one to many, but to us a novelty.
We bowled along cheerily, and presently, at the very summit (though it had been all summit to us, and all equally level, for half an hour or more), we came to a spring which spent its water through two outlets47 and sent it in opposite directions. The conductor said that one of those streams which we were looking at, was just starting on a journey westward48 to the Gulf49 of California and the Pacific Ocean, through hundreds and even thousands of miles of desert solitudes51. He said that the other was just leaving its home among the snow-peaks on a similar journey eastward—and we knew that long after we should have forgotten the simple rivulet52 it would still be plodding53 its patient way down the mountain sides, and canyon-beds, and between the banks of the Yellowstone; and by and by would join the broad Missouri and flow through unknown plains and deserts and unvisited wildernesses54; and add a long and troubled pilgrimage among snags and wrecks55 and sandbars; and enter the Mississippi, touch the wharves56 of St. Louis and still drift on, traversing shoals and rocky channels, then endless chains of bottomless and ample bends, walled with unbroken forests, then mysterious byways and secret passages among woody islands, then the chained bends again, bordered with wide levels of shining sugar-cane in place of the sombre forests; then by New Orleans and still other chains of bends—and finally, after two long months of daily and nightly harassment57, excitement, enjoyment58, adventure, and awful peril59 of parched60 throats, pumps and evaporation61, pass the Gulf and enter into its rest upon the bosom62 of the tropic sea, never to look upon its snow-peaks again or regret them.
I freighted a leaf with a mental message for the friends at home, and dropped it in the stream. But I put no stamp on it and it was held for postage somewhere.
On the summit we overtook an emigrant train of many wagons, many tired men and women, and many a disgusted sheep and cow.
In the wofully dusty horseman in charge of the expedition I recognized John ——. Of all persons in the world to meet on top of the Rocky Mountains thousands of miles from home, he was the last one I should have looked for. We were school-boys together and warm friends for years. But a boyish prank63 of mine had disruptured this friendship and it had never been renewed. The act of which I speak was this. I had been accustomed to visit occasionally an editor whose room was in the third story of a building and overlooked the street. One day this editor gave me a watermelon which I made preparations to devour64 on the spot, but chancing to look out of the window, I saw John standing65 directly under it and an irresistible66 desire came upon me to drop the melon on his head, which I immediately did. I was the loser, for it spoiled the melon, and John never forgave me and we dropped all intercourse67 and parted, but now met again under these circumstances.
We recognized each other simultaneously68, and hands were grasped as warmly as if no coldness had ever existed between us, and no allusion69 was made to any. All animosities were buried and the simple fact of meeting a familiar face in that isolated70 spot so far from home, was sufficient to make us forget all things but pleasant ones, and we parted again with sincere “good-bye” and “God bless you” from both.
We had been climbing up the long shoulders of the Rocky Mountains for many tedious hours—we started down them, now. And we went spinning away at a round rate too.
We left the snowy Wind River Mountains and Uinta Mountains behind, and sped away, always through splendid scenery but occasionally through long ranks of white skeletons of mules and oxen—monuments of the huge emigration of other days—and here and there were up-ended boards or small piles of stones which the driver said marked the resting-place of more precious remains71.
It was the loneliest land for a grave! A land given over to the cayote and the raven—which is but another name for desolation and utter solitude50. On damp, murky72 nights, these scattered73 skeletons gave forth a soft, hideous74 glow, like very faint spots of moonlight starring the vague desert. It was because of the phosphorus in the bones. But no scientific explanation could keep a body from shivering when he drifted by one of those ghostly lights and knew that a skull75 held it.
At midnight it began to rain, and I never saw anything like it—indeed, I did not even see this, for it was too dark. We fastened down the curtains and even caulked76 them with clothing, but the rain streamed in in twenty places, nothwithstanding. There was no escape. If one moved his feet out of a stream, he brought his body under one; and if he moved his body he caught one somewhere else. If he struggled out of the drenched77 blankets and sat up, he was bound to get one down the back of his neck. Meantime the stage was wandering about a plain with gaping78 gullies in it, for the driver could not see an inch before his face nor keep the road, and the storm pelted79 so pitilessly that there was no keeping the horses still. With the first abatement80 the conductor turned out with lanterns to look for the road, and the first dash he made was into a chasm81 about fourteen feet deep, his lantern following like a meteor. As soon as he touched bottom he sang out frantically82:
“Don’t come here!”
To which the driver, who was looking over the precipice83 where he had disappeared, replied, with an injured air: “Think I’m a dam fool?”
The conductor was more than an hour finding the road—a matter which showed us how far we had wandered and what chances we had been taking. He traced our wheel-tracks to the imminent84 verge85 of danger, in two places. I have always been glad that we were not killed that night. I do not know any particular reason, but I have always been glad. In the morning, the tenth day out, we crossed Green River, a fine, large, limpid stream—stuck in it with the water just up to the top of our mail- bed, and waited till extra teams were put on to haul us up the steep bank. But it was nice cool water, and besides it could not find any fresh place on us to wet.
At the Green River station we had breakfast—hot biscuits, fresh antelope86 steaks, and coffee—the only decent meal we tasted between the United States and Great Salt Lake City, and the only one we were ever really thankful for.
Think of the monotonous87 execrableness of the thirty that went before it, to leave this one simple breakfast looming43 up in my memory like a shot- tower after all these years have gone by!
At five P.M. we reached Fort Bridger, one hundred and seventeen miles from the South Pass, and one thousand and twenty-five miles from St. Joseph. Fifty-two miles further on, near the head of Echo Canyon, we met sixty United States soldiers from Camp Floyd. The day before, they had fired upon three hundred or four hundred Indians, whom they supposed gathered together for no good purpose. In the fight that had ensued, four Indians were captured, and the main body chased four miles, but nobody killed. This looked like business. We had a notion to get out and join the sixty soldiers, but upon reflecting that there were four hundred of the Indians, we concluded to go on and join the Indians.
Echo Canyon is twenty miles long. It was like a long, smooth, narrow street, with a gradual descending88 grade, and shut in by enormous perpendicular89 walls of coarse conglomerate90, four hundred feet high in many places, and turreted91 like mediaeval castles. This was the most faultless piece of road in the mountains, and the driver said he would “let his team out.” He did, and if the Pacific express trains whiz through there now any faster than we did then in the stage-coach, I envy the passengers the exhilaration of it. We fairly seemed to pick up our wheels and fly—and the mail matter was lifted up free from everything and held in solution! I am not given to exaggeration, and when I say a thing I mean it.
However, time presses. At four in the afternoon we arrived on the summit of Big Mountain, fifteen miles from Salt Lake City, when all the world was glorified92 with the setting sun, and the most stupendous panorama93 of mountain peaks yet encountered burst on our sight. We looked out upon this sublime94 spectacle from under the arch of a brilliant rainbow! Even the overland stage-driver stopped his horses and gazed!
Half an hour or an hour later, we changed horses, and took supper with a Mormon “Destroying Angel.”
“Destroying Angels,” as I understand it, are Latter-Day Saints who are set apart by the Church to conduct permanent disappearances95 of obnoxious96 citizens. I had heard a deal about these Mormon Destroying Angels and the dark and bloody97 deeds they had done, and when I entered this one’s house I had my shudder98 all ready. But alas99 for all our romances, he was nothing but a loud, profane100, offensive, old blackguard! He was murderous enough, possibly, to fill the bill of a Destroyer, but would you have any kind of an Angel devoid101 of dignity? Could you abide102 an Angel in an unclean shirt and no suspenders? Could you respect an Angel with a horse-laugh and a swagger like a buccaneer?
There were other blackguards present—comrades of this one. And there was one person that looked like a gentleman—Heber C. Kimball’s son, tall and well made, and thirty years old, perhaps. A lot of slatternly women flitted hither and thither103 in a hurry, with coffee-pots, plates of bread, and other appurtenances to supper, and these were said to be the wives of the Angel—or some of them, at least. And of course they were; for if they had been hired “help” they would not have let an angel from above storm and swear at them as he did, let alone one from the place this one hailed from.
This was our first experience of the western “peculiar institution,” and it was not very prepossessing. We did not tarry long to observe it, but hurried on to the home of the Latter-Day Saints, the stronghold of the prophets, the capital of the only absolute monarch104 in America—Great Salt Lake City. As the night closed in we took sanctuary105 in the Salt Lake House and unpacked106 our baggage.
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1
emigrant
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| adj.移居的，移民的；n.移居外国的人，移民 | |
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wagons
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| n.四轮的运货马车( wagon的名词复数 )；铁路货车；小手推车 | |
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herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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limpid
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| adj.清澈的，透明的 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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rattled
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| 慌乱的，恼火的 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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shoveled
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| vt.铲，铲出（shovel的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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boulders
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| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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contemplating
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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14
splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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gilding
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| n.贴金箔，镀金 | |
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saluted
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| v.欢迎，致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 )；赞扬，赞颂 | |
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constable
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| n.(英国)警察，警官 | |
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holder
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| n.持有者，占有者；(台，架等)支持物 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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bristling
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| a.竖立的 | |
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crammed
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| adj.塞满的，挤满的；大口地吃；快速贪婪地吃v.把…塞满；填入；临时抱佛脚( cram的过去式) | |
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frightful
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| adj.可怕的；讨厌的 | |
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marvel
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| vi.(at)惊叹vt.感到惊异；n.令人惊异的事 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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astounded
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| v.使震惊(astound的过去式和过去分词)；愕然；愕；惊讶 | |
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domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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renowned
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| adj.著名的，有名望的，声誉鹊起的 | |
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perch
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| n.栖木，高位，杆；v.栖息，就位，位于 | |
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twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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obstructing
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| 阻塞( obstruct的现在分词 )； 堵塞； 阻碍； 阻止 | |
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contemplate
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| vt.盘算，计议；周密考虑；注视，凝视 | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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shredded
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| shred的过去式和过去分词 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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intercepting
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| 截取（技术），截接 | |
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monstrous
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| adj.巨大的；恐怖的；可耻的，丢脸的 | |
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canyon
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| n.峡谷，溪谷 | |
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canyons
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| n.峡谷( canyon的名词复数 ) | |
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43
looming
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| n.上现蜃景（光通过低层大气发生异常折射形成的一种海市蜃楼）v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的现在分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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44
marred
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| adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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peal
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| n.钟声；v.鸣响 | |
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outlets
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| n.出口( outlet的名词复数 )；经销店；插座；廉价经销店 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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50
solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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51
solitudes
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| n.独居( solitude的名词复数 )；孤独；荒僻的地方；人迹罕至的地方 | |
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52
rivulet
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| n.小溪，小河 | |
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plodding
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| a.proceeding in a slow or dull way | |
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wildernesses
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| 荒野( wilderness的名词复数 )； 沙漠； （政治家）在野； 不再当政（或掌权） | |
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55
wrecks
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| n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 )；（事故中）遭严重毁坏的汽车（或飞机等）；（身体或精神上）受到严重损伤的人；状况非常糟糕的车辆（或建筑物等）v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 )；使（船舶）失事，使遇难，使下沉 | |
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wharves
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| n.码头，停泊处( wharf的名词复数 ) | |
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harassment
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| n.骚扰，扰乱，烦恼，烦乱 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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peril
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| n.(严重的)危险；危险的事物 | |
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parched
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| adj.焦干的；极渴的；v.（使）焦干 | |
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evaporation
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| n.蒸发，消失 | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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prank
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| n.开玩笑，恶作剧；v.装饰；打扮；炫耀自己 | |
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devour
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| v.吞没；贪婪地注视或谛听，贪读；使着迷 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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allusion
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| n.暗示，间接提示 | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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murky
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| adj.黑暗的，朦胧的；adv.阴暗地，混浊地；n.阴暗；昏暗 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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skull
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| n.头骨；颅骨 | |
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caulked
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| v.堵（船的）缝( caulk的过去式和过去分词 )；泥…的缝；填塞；使不漏水 | |
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drenched
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| adj.湿透的；充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 )；在某人（某物）上大量使用（某液体） | |
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gaping
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| adj.口的；张口的；敞口的；多洞穴的v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的现在分词 )；张开，张大 | |
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pelted
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| （连续地）投掷( pelt的过去式和过去分词 )； 连续抨击； 攻击； 剥去…的皮 | |
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abatement
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| n.减(免)税，打折扣，冲销 | |
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chasm
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| n.深坑，断层，裂口，大分岐，利害冲突 | |
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frantically
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| ad.发狂地, 发疯地 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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imminent
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| adj.即将发生的，临近的，逼近的 | |
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verge
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| n.边，边缘；v.接近，濒临 | |
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antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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conglomerate
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| n.综合商社，多元化集团公司 | |
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turreted
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| a.(像炮塔般)旋转式的 | |
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glorified
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| 美其名的，变荣耀的 | |
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panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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disappearances
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| n.消失( disappearance的名词复数 )；丢失；失踪；失踪案 | |
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obnoxious
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| adj.极恼人的，讨人厌的，可憎的 | |
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bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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profane
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| adj.亵神的，亵渎的；vt.亵渎，玷污 | |
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devoid
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| adj.全无的，缺乏的 | |
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102
abide
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| vi.遵守；坚持；vt.忍受 | |
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103
thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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104
monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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105
sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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unpacked
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| v.从（包裹等）中取出（所装的东西），打开行李取出( unpack的过去式和过去分词 )；拆包；解除…的负担；吐露（心事等） | |
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