By and by the Acting5 Governor of the Territory introduced us to other “Gentiles,” and we spent a sociable6 hour with them. “Gentiles” are people who are not Mormons. Our fellow-passenger, Bemis, took care of himself, during this part of the evening, and did not make an overpowering success of it, either, for he came into our room in the hotel about eleven o’clock, full of cheerfulness, and talking loosely, disjointedly and indiscriminately, and every now and then tugging7 out a ragged8 word by the roots that had more hiccups9 than syllables10 in it. This, together with his hanging his coat on the floor on one side of a chair, and his vest on the floor on the other side, and piling his pants on the floor just in front of the same chair, and then comtemplating the general result with superstitious11 awe12, and finally pronouncing it “too many for him” and going to bed with his boots on, led us to fear that something he had eaten had not agreed with him.
But we knew afterward that it was something he had been drinking. It was the exclusively Mormon refresher, “valley tan.”
Valley tan (or, at least, one form of valley tan) is a kind of whisky, or first cousin to it; is of Mormon invention and manufactured only in Utah. Tradition says it is made of (imported) fire and brimstone. If I remember rightly no public drinking saloons were allowed in the kingdom by Brigham Young, and no private drinking permitted among the faithful, except they confined themselves to “valley tan.”
Next day we strolled about everywhere through the broad, straight, level streets, and enjoyed the pleasant strangeness of a city of fifteen thousand inhabitants with no loafers perceptible in it; and no visible drunkards or noisy people; a limpid13 stream rippling14 and dancing through every street in place of a filthy15 gutter16; block after block of trim dwellings17, built of “frame” and sunburned brick—a great thriving orchard18 and garden behind every one of them, apparently—branches from the street stream winding19 and sparkling among the garden beds and fruit trees—and a grand general air of neatness, repair, thrift20 and comfort, around and about and over the whole. And everywhere were workshops, factories, and all manner of industries; and intent faces and busy hands were to be seen wherever one looked; and in one’s ears was the ceaseless clink of hammers, the buzz of trade and the contented21 hum of drums and fly-wheels.
The armorial crest22 of my own State consisted of two dissolute bears holding up the head of a dead and gone cask between them and making the pertinent23 remark, “UNITED, WE STAND—(hic!)—DIVIDED, WE FALL.” It was always too figurative for the author of this book. But the Mormon crest was easy. And it was simple, unostentatious, and fitted like a glove. It was a representation of a GOLDEN BEEHIVE, with the bees all at work!
The city lies in the edge of a level plain as broad as the State of Connecticut, and crouches24 close down to the ground under a curving wall of mighty25 mountains whose heads are hidden in the clouds, and whose shoulders bear relics26 of the snows of winter all the summer long.
Seen from one of these dizzy heights, twelve or fifteen miles off, Great Salt Lake City is toned down and diminished till it is suggestive of a child’s toy-village reposing27 under the majestic28 protection of the Chinese wall.
On some of those mountains, to the southwest, it had been raining every day for two weeks, but not a drop had fallen in the city. And on hot days in late spring and early autumn the citizens could quit fanning and growling29 and go out and cool off by looking at the luxury of a glorious snow-storm going on in the mountains. They could enjoy it at a distance, at those seasons, every day, though no snow would fall in their streets, or anywhere near them.
Salt Lake City was healthy—an extremely healthy city. They declared there was only one physician in the place and he was arrested every week regularly and held to answer under the vagrant30 act for having “no visible means of support.” They always give you a good substantial article of truth in Salt Lake, and good measure and good weight, too. [Very often, if you wished to weigh one of their airiest little commonplace statements you would want the hay scales.]
We desired to visit the famous inland sea, the American “Dead Sea,” the great Salt Lake—seventeen miles, horseback, from the city—for we had dreamed about it, and thought about it, and talked about it, and yearned31 to see it, all the first part of our trip; but now when it was only arm’s length away it had suddenly lost nearly every bit of its interest. And so we put it off, in a sort of general way, till next day—and that was the last we ever thought of it. We dined with some hospitable32 Gentiles; and visited the foundation of the prodigious33 temple; and talked long with that shrewd Connecticut Yankee, Heber C. Kimball (since deceased), a saint of high degree and a mighty man of commerce.
We saw the “Tithing-House,” and the “Lion House,” and I do not know or remember how many more church and government buildings of various kinds and curious names. We flitted hither and thither34 and enjoyed every hour, and picked up a great deal of useful information and entertaining nonsense, and went to bed at night satisfied.
The second day, we made the acquaintance of Mr. Street (since deceased) and put on white shirts and went and paid a state visit to the king. He seemed a quiet, kindly35, easy-mannered, dignified36, self-possessed old gentleman of fifty-five or sixty, and had a gentle craft in his eye that probably belonged there. He was very simply dressed and was just taking off a straw hat as we entered. He talked about Utah, and the Indians, and Nevada, and general American matters and questions, with our secretary and certain government officials who came with us. But he never paid any attention to me, notwithstanding I made several attempts to “draw him out” on federal politics and his high handed attitude toward Congress. I thought some of the things I said were rather fine. But he merely looked around at me, at distant intervals37, something as I have seen a benignant old cat look around to see which kitten was meddling38 with her tail.
By and by I subsided39 into an indignant silence, and so sat until the end, hot and flushed, and execrating40 him in my heart for an ignorant savage41. But he was calm. His conversation with those gentlemen flowed on as sweetly and peacefully and musically as any summer brook42. When the audience was ended and we were retiring from the presence, he put his hand on my head, beamed down on me in an admiring way and said to my brother:
“Ah—your child, I presume? Boy, or girl?”
点击收听单词发音
1 fowls | |
鸟( fowl的名词复数 ); 禽肉; 既不是这; 非驴非马 | |
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2 afterward | |
adv.后来;以后 | |
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3 fascination | |
n.令人着迷的事物,魅力,迷恋 | |
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4 enchantment | |
n.迷惑,妖术,魅力 | |
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5 acting | |
n.演戏,行为,假装;adj.代理的,临时的,演出用的 | |
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6 sociable | |
adj.好交际的,友好的,合群的 | |
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7 tugging | |
n.牵引感v.用力拉,使劲拉,猛扯( tug的现在分词 ) | |
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8 ragged | |
adj.衣衫褴褛的,粗糙的,刺耳的 | |
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9 hiccups | |
n.嗝( hiccup的名词复数 );连续地打嗝;暂时性的小问题;短暂的停顿v.嗝( hiccup的第三人称单数 );连续地打嗝;暂时性的小问题;短暂的停顿 | |
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10 syllables | |
n.音节( syllable的名词复数 ) | |
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11 superstitious | |
adj.迷信的 | |
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12 awe | |
n.敬畏,惊惧;vt.使敬畏,使惊惧 | |
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13 limpid | |
adj.清澈的,透明的 | |
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14 rippling | |
起涟漪的,潺潺流水般声音的 | |
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15 filthy | |
adj.卑劣的;恶劣的,肮脏的 | |
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16 gutter | |
n.沟,街沟,水槽,檐槽,贫民窟 | |
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17 dwellings | |
n.住处,处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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18 orchard | |
n.果园,果园里的全部果树,(美俚)棒球场 | |
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19 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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20 thrift | |
adj.节约,节俭;n.节俭,节约 | |
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21 contented | |
adj.满意的,安心的,知足的 | |
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22 crest | |
n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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23 pertinent | |
adj.恰当的;贴切的;中肯的;有关的;相干的 | |
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24 crouches | |
n.蹲着的姿势( crouch的名词复数 )v.屈膝,蹲伏( crouch的第三人称单数 ) | |
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25 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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26 relics | |
[pl.]n.遗物,遗迹,遗产;遗体,尸骸 | |
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27 reposing | |
v.将(手臂等)靠在某人(某物)上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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28 majestic | |
adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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29 growling | |
n.吠声, 咆哮声 v.怒吠, 咆哮, 吼 | |
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30 vagrant | |
n.流浪者,游民;adj.流浪的,漂泊不定的 | |
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31 yearned | |
渴望,切盼,向往( yearn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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32 hospitable | |
adj.好客的;宽容的;有利的,适宜的 | |
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33 prodigious | |
adj.惊人的,奇妙的;异常的;巨大的;庞大的 | |
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34 thither | |
adv.向那里;adj.在那边的,对岸的 | |
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35 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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36 dignified | |
a.可敬的,高贵的 | |
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37 intervals | |
n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 );间隔时间;[数学]区间;(戏剧、电影或音乐会的)幕间休息 | |
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38 meddling | |
v.干涉,干预(他人事务)( meddle的现在分词 ) | |
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39 subsided | |
v.(土地)下陷(因在地下采矿)( subside的过去式和过去分词 );减弱;下降至较低或正常水平;一下子坐在椅子等上 | |
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40 execrating | |
v.憎恶( execrate的现在分词 );厌恶;诅咒;咒骂 | |
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41 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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42 brook | |
n.小河,溪;v.忍受,容让 | |
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