Bayard and his companions, including the German student, with whom there had sprung up an intimate friendship, left Liverpool on the same day on which they arrived there, having found that they would reach Scotland via the Giant’s Causeway, as soon as they could by waiting for the more direct line. With an exercise of common-sense, such as characterizes too few Americans in this day of fashionable travel, they took passage second-class, finding themselves in no way the worse for the temporary inconvenience, while their fare was but one-sixth the amount of a first-class passage. It was not a comfortable night’s voyage on the way from Liverpool to Port Rush, in the north of Ireland, starting at ten o’clock in the evening, and arriving at eleven o’clock the next night. It may be that the cold and wet, the crowd of Irish passengers, the unvaried diet of bread and cheese, served the purpose of making the shores and bluffs1 more attractive,[51] as the mind naturally seeks and usually obtains some comfort and recreation in the most doleful surroundings. It is a glorious thing to look upon those basaltic hexagons of the Giant’s Causeway, under any circumstances. Those enormous natural columns, set side by side, so close as to make a floor along their tops, so strange, so unaccountably symmetrical, fill the soul with awe3, and half persuade the least credulous4 beholder5 that there were giants in the days of yore, and that they really did build a thoroughfare of these huge prisms across to Scotland. Any traveller contemplates6 those matchless piles with surprise, and every sojourner7 is delighted beyond estimation by the contour and echoes of the vast caverns8, into which the ocean rolls with such enchanting10 combinations of sound and motion. But to young men who had seen but little of the world and its natural wonders, and who had suffered a kind of martyrdom for the sake of visiting them, those resounding11 caverns, and those mighty12 ruins of gigantic natural temples, must have been inspiring beyond measure. Every traveller recalls with the most clear and grateful remembrance, the first landscapes of Europe, on which rest his ocean-weary eyes. To these young men the landscapes were about their only joy, and they appreciated them accordingly. Bayard seems to have been very enthusiastic. He scrutinized13 everything and questioned everybody. He let nothing pass him unnoticed, although in his books he left much unmentioned. He clambered into the[52] lofty recesses14 of the Causeway, and let himself down into the strange niches15. He halloed in the caves for the thundering echoes; he drank three times at the magical Giant’s Well. He strayed from the highway that led from Port Rush to the Causeway, to look into the weird16 nooks which the sea has carved in the mutable shore. Dunluce Castle, with its broken walls and ghastly towers—home of proud Lord Antrim—and home as well of that family’s terrible banshee, was the first old ruin which Bayard visited. It stands on the verge17 of the cragged cliffs, with the sea beating about its base, and bellowing18 in the cavern9 under it. It is located near the highway which leads from Port Rush to the Causeway. Across the narrow footway, and into these ruins, Bayard rushed most eagerly. The same old man who now shows travellers the battlements, and tells to wondering hundreds the tales of tournament and banqueting-hall, was there then, and rehearsed the tale to him. The boy is gone. But the old man, whom Bayard mentions as an old man then, lives on in his dull routine, yet living less in a half century than Bayard lived in a single year.
All this was fresh and glorious to the youth, and gave him a very pleasant foretaste of the rich experiences in store for him. But, as if the fates conspired19 to chill his intellectual joys with physical discomforts20, a rain came pouring upon them as they returned, the wind blew in fierce gusts21, darkness, deep and black, settled upon the land; they lost their way, and floundered[53] about in muddy ravines, and barely escaped destruction as they trod the edges of the precipices23 above the wildest of seas. They became separated from each other, and the howling of winds and waves among the crags was so hideous24 that they could not for a long time hear each other’s call, and the worst of fears for each other were added to their own dismay. But they somehow blundered upon the path as it emerged from the wild rocks, and together walked the beach to their hotel, soaking and half frozen. But all those trying experiences fade when the skin is dry, and the sweet sleep of healthy youth comes with its comforting oblivion; only the gorgeous landscapes, and the romantic places, like the memories of boyhood, remain to shape the dreams.
Bayard was shocked by the miserable25 condition of the Irish peasantry, and his description of their huts, and their appearance, given in his letters, shows great sympathy for their distress26, and great disgust at their degraded customs. On his way to Greenock from Port Rush, he fell in with a company of them, who chanced to take the same steamer, and he did not enjoy their drunken and beastly songs and riots. But on his trip from Greenock, up the Clyde to Dumbarton, he had more acceptable companionship, and in his book he refers, with a most touching27 simplicity28, to the music of a strolling musician on board the boat, who played “Hail Columbia” and “Home, Sweet Home.”
[54]
Old Scotland! Noble old hills! Charming lakes, and enchanting valleys! How like the awakened29 memories of loved faces, they come back to us when we hear the word “Dumbarton”! What exciting tales of Baliol, of Wallace, of Bruce, of Queen Mary, of Cromwell, come again as we recall the sugar-loaf rock, on which the remnant of the old fortress30 stands! Those bright youths must have feasted on the associations connected with Dumbarton. As they peered from Wallace’s tower, handled Wallace’s sword, and gazed over the wide landscape, with the sites of battle-fields, castles, palaces, the home of Bruce, the cottage of Wallace, the beautiful valleys of the Clyde and Leven, the majestic31 Ben Lomond, and the crests32 of the Highlands, they grew in intellectual stature34, and breathed a moral atmosphere as pure as the air that encircled the flagstaff at the summit. There is no education like the actual contact with the scenes connected with heroic self-sacrifice, to train young men for patriots35 and poets. No discipline is more necessary to the development of a broad and virtuous36 manhood among any class of young men, than studious travel in foreign countries. To young Bayard, lacking other culture than the few years at the district school, the few months at the academy, and the studious perusal37 of histories and poems, this experience was of vast importance. Its beneficial effects were seen throughout his life, and frequently show themselves in his editorials, poems, novels, and narratives38.
[55]
At Dumbarton, Bayard had his first narrow escape, and he said that when he reached the ground, after daring to scale, for flowers, the precipice22 up which Wallace climbed with his followers39 for glory and fatherland, he was in such a tremor40 of terror, in view of his having so narrowly escaped death, that he could scarcely speak. The unusual strength of a little tuft of wild grass, growing in a crevice41 of the cliff, had saved him from being dashed to pieces. It must have given him a very vivid impression of the daring feats42 of those old Scotch43 warriors44, who not only faced these perpendicular45 walls, but fearlessly encountered the foes46 at the top.
From Dumbarton, Bayard and his friends walked through the valley of the River Leven to Loch Lomond. All his letters and contributions to the newspapers speak of this walk as one of the most enjoyable of all his rambles47. In his “Views Afoot,” with which every reader is or should be familiar, he mentions it as a glorious walk. The pastoral beauty of the fields, the clearness of the stream, the ivy-grown towers, the dense48 forests, the early home of Smollett, whose dashing pen astonished the kingdom in 1748, the summer parks of Scottish noblemen, the mild, soothing49 August sunshine, were a combination rarely found, and when found as rarely appreciated.
These young travellers had been diligent50 readers, and, when the steamer hurried them over the lake, the appearance of Ben Lomond and Ben Voirlich, of “Bull’s Rock,” and Rob Roy’s Cave, of Inversnaid[56] and Glen Falloch, called up the shades of the Campbells, Macgregors, Malcolms, Rothesays, Macfarlanes, Macphersons; making each beach and rock along Loch Lomond a feature of romantic interest.
With youthful enthusiasm, Bayard clambered to the rugged51 top of Ben Lomond, having waded52 through deep morass53 and thorny54 thicket55, to reach it, and, from that lookout56, gazed around on the peaks of lesser57 mountains, down upon the sweet Lomond lake, away to the oceans on either side of Scotland, discerning the smoke over Glasgow, the dark plains of Ayr, and, but for a mist, the embattled towers of Stirling and Edinburgh. After a short stop, he descended58 with his old companions, and a new one (he was constantly finding new friends), along the slippery, stony59 slopes; and, after a dinner of oatmeal cakes and milk at a cottage near the base, trudged60 and waded on through that wild tract2 of woodland and swamp to Loch Katrine. There was the home of poetry. The great forests, through which the Clan-Alpine horns had echoed, the dense forest, through which the scarfs and bows did gleam in the old days of the Highland33 clans61, had disappeared. The blossoming heather and bare rocks made a sorry substitute. But to Bayard, whose life was set to poetry, who had so often studied and declaimed of Fitz-James and Roderick Dhu, and who had often dreamed of the Ellen’s Isle62, and the gathering63 clans, as Walter Scott described them, it must have been an enchanted64 spot. One may recite[57] and analyze65 for half a century that poem, and may flatter himself that he has detected all its beauty, and understands all its historic references; but one hour on Loch Katrine is worth more than all that. There the reader lives the poem, and it is a part of his being ever more. Bayard felt compensated66 there for all the sufferings, by sea and by land, which he had experienced. He gazed fondly upon the glassy, land-locked water; he studied closely the features, manners, and songs of the Highland boatmen, those descendants of the old clans; he sketched67, with the keenest interest, Ben Ann, Ben Venue68, the gate of the Trosachs, and the curved lines of the sandy shore, and he awoke the echoes at the Goblin’s Gave and Beal-nam-bo. Rich experiences! In such does the youth develop fast into a cultured manhood.
From Loch Katrine, the party walked by way of Loch Vennachar, Coilantogle Ford69, and Ben Ledi, to Doune,—the home of royalty70 during the sixteenth century, and whose old castle is still a majestic ruin. Thence through the plains to Stirling Castle, crowned and battle-honored, and looking down on the valleys of the Forth71 and Allan Water, and out upon the bloody72 fields of Bannockburn and Sheriff-muir. Having inspected the dungeons73 and halls of the castle, looked with horror upon the spot where royalty murdered a friend, and threw the body to the dogs; and after contemplating74 the grave of the girlish martyrs75, they hastily took the shortest route to Glasgow,[58] and thence to the home of Burns, where a great celebration, or memorial gathering, was to be held, to honor the memory of the “rustic bard,” on the banks of his own “Bonnie Doon.”
点击收听单词发音
1 bluffs | |
恐吓( bluff的名词复数 ); 悬崖; 峭壁 | |
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2 tract | |
n.传单,小册子,大片(土地或森林) | |
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3 awe | |
n.敬畏,惊惧;vt.使敬畏,使惊惧 | |
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4 credulous | |
adj.轻信的,易信的 | |
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5 beholder | |
n.观看者,旁观者 | |
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6 contemplates | |
深思,细想,仔细考虑( contemplate的第三人称单数 ); 注视,凝视; 考虑接受(发生某事的可能性); 深思熟虑,沉思,苦思冥想 | |
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7 sojourner | |
n.旅居者,寄居者 | |
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8 caverns | |
大山洞,大洞穴( cavern的名词复数 ) | |
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9 cavern | |
n.洞穴,大山洞 | |
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10 enchanting | |
a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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11 resounding | |
adj. 响亮的 | |
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12 mighty | |
adj.强有力的;巨大的 | |
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13 scrutinized | |
v.仔细检查,详审( scrutinize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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14 recesses | |
n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 );(工作或业务活动的)中止或暂停期间;学校的课间休息;某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 );将(墙)做成凹形,在(墙)上做壁龛;休息,休会,休庭 | |
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15 niches | |
壁龛( niche的名词复数 ); 合适的位置[工作等]; (产品的)商机; 生态位(一个生物所占据的生境的最小单位) | |
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16 weird | |
adj.古怪的,离奇的;怪诞的,神秘而可怕的 | |
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17 verge | |
n.边,边缘;v.接近,濒临 | |
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18 bellowing | |
v.发出吼叫声,咆哮(尤指因痛苦)( bellow的现在分词 );(愤怒地)说出(某事),大叫 | |
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19 conspired | |
密谋( conspire的过去式和过去分词 ); 搞阴谋; (事件等)巧合; 共同导致 | |
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20 discomforts | |
n.不舒适( discomfort的名词复数 );不愉快,苦恼 | |
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21 gusts | |
一阵强风( gust的名词复数 ); (怒、笑等的)爆发; (感情的)迸发; 发作 | |
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22 precipice | |
n.悬崖,危急的处境 | |
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23 precipices | |
n.悬崖,峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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24 hideous | |
adj.丑陋的,可憎的,可怕的,恐怖的 | |
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25 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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26 distress | |
n.苦恼,痛苦,不舒适;不幸;vt.使悲痛 | |
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27 touching | |
adj.动人的,使人感伤的 | |
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28 simplicity | |
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
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29 awakened | |
v.(使)醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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30 fortress | |
n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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31 majestic | |
adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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32 crests | |
v.到达山顶(或浪峰)( crest的第三人称单数 );到达洪峰,达到顶点 | |
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33 highland | |
n.(pl.)高地,山地 | |
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34 stature | |
n.(高度)水平,(高度)境界,身高,身材 | |
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35 patriots | |
爱国者,爱国主义者( patriot的名词复数 ) | |
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36 virtuous | |
adj.有品德的,善良的,贞洁的,有效力的 | |
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37 perusal | |
n.细读,熟读;目测 | |
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38 narratives | |
记叙文( narrative的名词复数 ); 故事; 叙述; 叙述部分 | |
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39 followers | |
追随者( follower的名词复数 ); 用户; 契据的附面; 从动件 | |
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40 tremor | |
n.震动,颤动,战栗,兴奋,地震 | |
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41 crevice | |
n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝;缺口 | |
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42 feats | |
功绩,伟业,技艺( feat的名词复数 ) | |
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43 scotch | |
n.伤口,刻痕;苏格兰威士忌酒;v.粉碎,消灭,阻止;adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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44 warriors | |
武士,勇士,战士( warrior的名词复数 ) | |
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45 perpendicular | |
adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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46 foes | |
敌人,仇敌( foe的名词复数 ) | |
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47 rambles | |
(无目的地)漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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48 dense | |
a.密集的,稠密的,浓密的;密度大的 | |
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49 soothing | |
adj.慰藉的;使人宽心的;镇静的 | |
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50 diligent | |
adj.勤勉的,勤奋的 | |
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51 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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52 waded | |
(从水、泥等)蹚,走过,跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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53 morass | |
n.沼泽,困境 | |
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54 thorny | |
adj.多刺的,棘手的 | |
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55 thicket | |
n.灌木丛,树林 | |
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56 lookout | |
n.注意,前途,瞭望台 | |
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57 lesser | |
adj.次要的,较小的;adv.较小地,较少地 | |
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58 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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59 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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60 trudged | |
vt.& vi.跋涉,吃力地走(trudge的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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61 clans | |
宗族( clan的名词复数 ); 氏族; 庞大的家族; 宗派 | |
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62 isle | |
n.小岛,岛 | |
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63 gathering | |
n.集会,聚会,聚集 | |
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64 enchanted | |
adj. 被施魔法的,陶醉的,入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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65 analyze | |
vt.分析,解析 (=analyse) | |
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66 compensated | |
补偿,报酬( compensate的过去式和过去分词 ); 给(某人)赔偿(或赔款) | |
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67 sketched | |
v.草拟(sketch的过去式与过去分词形式) | |
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68 venue | |
n.犯罪地点,审判地,管辖地,发生地点,集合地点 | |
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69 Ford | |
n.浅滩,水浅可涉处;v.涉水,涉过 | |
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70 royalty | |
n.皇家,皇族 | |
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71 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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72 bloody | |
adj.非常的的;流血的;残忍的;adv.很;vt.血染 | |
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73 dungeons | |
n.地牢( dungeon的名词复数 ) | |
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74 contemplating | |
深思,细想,仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 ); 注视,凝视; 考虑接受(发生某事的可能性); 深思熟虑,沉思,苦思冥想 | |
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75 martyrs | |
n.martyr的复数形式;烈士( martyr的名词复数 );殉道者;殉教者;乞怜者(向人诉苦以博取同情) | |
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