The circumstances under which Mr. Taylor entered California, were in striking contrast with those which surrounded him when he made his first attempt to see the world. For, when he started for his European tour, and throughout the whole period of his stay there, he was hindered and annoyed by the lack of money, and by the lack of acquaintances. Then, he was dependent wholly upon his own earnings2 and economy for every privilege he enjoyed. He had nothing substantial behind him, and nothing certain before him. But in California he moves among the people with the prestige and capital of a powerful journal behind him, and before him the certainty of ample remuneration for all his trials. He is no longer the unknown, uncared-for stripling, whose adventures are regarded as visionary, and whose company was an[121] intrusion. He was the welcomed guest of naval3 officers, of army officers, and invited to the home of the Military Governor, and to the headquarters of Gen. John C. Fremont.
When he entered San Francisco, that place was only a miners’ camp, composed of tents, barracks, piles of merchandise, and tethered mules5. How utterly6 incomprehensible it seems now to the visitor to that great metropolis7, when he reads that, as late as 1849, there were only huts and tents where now stand the palatial8 business blocks, gorgeous hotels, and miles of residences made of brick and stone! It was an interesting time to visit the Pacific shore, and most interestingly did Mr. Taylor describe it in his letters, and in his book entitled “Eldorado.” The great camp of San Francisco was but a few weeks old when he arrived there; but, in its boiling humanity, Mr. Taylor noticed Malays, Chinamen, Mexicans, Germans, Englishmen, Yankees, Indians, Japanese, Chilians, Hawaiians, and Kanakas, rushing, shouting, gesticulating, like madmen. Gold! Gold! Gold! Everything, anything for gold! Though hundreds lay in the swamps of Panama, dead or dying with the cholera9; although the bleaching10 bones of many enthusiasts11 gleamed in the sun on the great American desert; although thousands had perished in the thickets12, snows, and floods of the Sierra Nevada, their eyes never to be gratified with the sight of gold-dust; yet the increasing multitude followed faster,[122] and more recklessly in their footsteps. Into such a mass of half-insane humanity, did Mr. Taylor thrust himself, that the world, as well as himself, might profit thereby13. Great names were given to the smallest things, and prices larger than the names. The Parker House was a board shanty14 with lodging-rooms at twenty-five dollars a week, and was not more than seventy feet square, but rented to the landlord for one hundred and ten thousand dollars a year. Newspapers sold for a dollar each, and nearly every class of merchandise from the Eastern States brought a profit of several thousand per cent. The wages of a common laborer15 were from fifteen dollars to twenty dollars a day, while real estate went up so fast in price, that few dared to sell, lest the next day should show that they had lost a fortune. One man, who died insolvent16, but having, in his name a small tract17 of land, left after all a million of dollars to his heirs, so much did the lands increase in value before the estate was settled.
Fortunes were made in a single day. If a man arrived there with anything to sell, he could put his own price upon it, and dispose of it to the first comer. One man, whose store was a log-cabin with a canvas roof, made five hundred thousand dollars in eight months. Gambling18 was carried on in an equally magnificent scale. Greater bets than Baden-Baden or Monaco ever saw, were common-place there. Millions of dollars changed hands every day. Gold was so[123] plentiful19, that boys made immense profits, gathering20, out of the dust in the streets, the nuggets and fine gold which had been carelessly allowed to drop from the miners’ bags or pockets.
From that strangest of all strange medleys21, Mr. Taylor travelled, mule4-back, through a wild and dangerous region, to Stockton, and thence to the productive “diggings” on Mokelumne River. There he saw the miners hard at work gathering the gold in the most primitive22 manner. The sands found in the dry bed of the river were mixed with gold, while in the crevices23 and little holes in the rocks, pieces of gold, varying from the size of a five-cent piece to that of a hen’s egg, were frequently found. Gold from the sand was gathered by shaking a bowlful of it until the heaviest particles fell through to the bottom; and by washing away the finer particles of dirt, and picking out the stones with the fingers. Nearly every miner found some gold; but those who made the immense fortunes were quite rare. For many of such as were in luck, and who found great sums, were so sure of finding more, that they squandered25 what they had discovered, in a manner most unfortunate for them, but very fortunate for those who had found nothing. All the details, experiences, and adventures of these followers26 of Mammon were exhibited to Mr. Taylor, and the most tempting27 offers made to him to dig for himself. But, true to his employers, he turned from mines “with millions in them,” and wrote[124] letters for the “Tribune.” Over jagged mountains, through thickets of thorns, through muddy rivers, over desert plains, and along routes, dangerous alike from man and beast, he fearlessly pursued his journey of observation, exhibiting many of those characteristics which have distinguished28 H. M. Stanley, that other great correspondent. Sights he saw that curdled29 the blood; men he met, pale, haggard, and dying; bones he saw of lost and starved miners; and the extremes of misery30 and joy, wealth and poverty, generosity31 and meanness, faith in God, and worship of the devil, which must have bewildered him.
The fact that he had money and social influence did not protect him from the hardships common to all travellers who visited the gold mines of California at that early period. Many nights he slept in the open air, having his single blanket and the cold earth for a bed. Often he made his couch on a table or the floor in some rude and dirty cabin. Sometimes he was lost in the woods or among the mountains, and frequently suffered long for food and water. He was determined32 to see the land and its freight of human life in its most practical form, although by so doing he often risked the loss of comfort, of property, and occasionally of his life.
One of the most interesting chapters of history to be found in any work connected with life in the United States, is to be found in his simple but graphic33 account of the first election in California. The rough, disintegrated,[125] and shifting communities of that new land had for a year and a half depended for law and order upon the innate34 respect for the rights of others to be found in the hearts of a majority of civilized35 men. Beyond this there were organized in some of the mining towns a vigilance committee, and in a few others a judge with almost supreme36 power was elected by a vote of the people. These officials administered justice by common consent, having no commission or authority from the National Government. The enormous crowds of immigrants which filled towns and cities in a single month made the necessity for some form of State or Territorial37 government apparent to the least thoughtful. So a few of the more enterprising individuals, advised and assisted by the military authorities, undertook to bring order out of chaos38 by calling upon the people to elect delegates to a Constitutional Convention. The readiness and systematic39 manner in which the people of that whole region responded to the call, was one of the most remarkable40 as well as one of the most instructive popular movements to be found in the annals of freedom. The meeting of that Constitutional Convention at Monterey; the rude accommodations, the ability of the body, the harmony of their deliberations, and the wisdom of their regulations and provisions, was the subject of many most enthusiastic epistles from the pen of Mr. Taylor. In his celebrated42 book, now so much prized by the people of California, and by students of American history, he gives many[126] little details and incidents which are left out of other books and so often overlooked by authors and correspondents, but which are of inestimable importance in gaining an accurate knowledge of the inside social and political beginnings of that powerful State. He described the appearance of the building in which the Convention met, gives sketches43 of the prominent actors in the assembly, and, as if foreseeing how posterity44 would like to preserve the memory of that great day, he gives the complexion45, color of the hair, stature46, and dress of the noted47 men who held seats. It is as exciting as one of Scott’s novels to read of the emotion, the tears, among those legislators when the new State was born, and when the “thirty-first” gun was fired from the fort to announce the completion of the great event. Thus, from the consent of the governed in its most literal sense, the officers of the State of California derived48 their just powers. And without discord49, rebellious50 or seditious conspiracies51, a new government took its place among the empires of the world. The description of that event in his simple, straightforward52 way was one of Mr. Taylor’s best deeds.
Yet every incident and scene had its poetic1 side to him, and, while that phase of his nature did not lead him to exaggeration in prose, it often led him to break into independent poetic effusions. He appears to have long looked upon the Pacific coast as a field of poetry and song, for, before he had any idea of visiting the country, he wrote several poems, and located[127] them there. “The Fight of Paso del Mar41” was one of those early poems, and the scene was the cliff at the entrance to the harbor at Santa Barbara.
“Gusty and raw was the morning,
A fog hung over the seas,
And its gray skirts, rolling inland,
Were torn by the mountain trees;
No sound was heard but the dashing
Of waves on the sandy bar,
When Pablo of San Diego
The pescadòr, out in his shallop,
Gathering his harvest so wide,
Sees the dim bulk of the headland
He sees, like a white thread, the pathway
Wind round on the terrible wall,
Most sweetly sang he of the climate, and the prolific57 gifts of nature in California, and one verse of his “Manuela” contains a very vivid and accurate picture of some of California, as seen by many travellers.
“All the air is full of music, for the winter rains are o’er,
In a prophetic strain, which has been so often quoted in that land where
And like a sheathless sabre, the far Pacific shines,”
[128]
he foretold64, in “The Pine Forest of Monterey,” what has already happened in that magic land of sunshine, gold, and miraculous65 progress.
“Stately Pines,
But few more years around the promontory66
Your chant will meet the thunders of the sea.
No more, a barrier to the encroaching sand
Your firm knees tremble. Never more the wind
Nor sunset’s yellow blaze athwart your heads
Crown all the hills with gold. Your race is past:
The mystic cycle, whose unnoted birth
And other footsteps from these changing shores
Frighten its haunting Spirit. Men will come
The smoky volumes of the forge will stain
This pure, sweet air; loud keels will ride the sea,
Through all her green ca?adas Spring will seek
O, mournful Pines, within her glowing arms,
Will weep soft rains to find ye fallen low.”
He portrayed77 his California experiences in rhyme, when he sang of “The Summer Camp,” and we quote a few lines of it, so appropriate to his departure from San Francisco.
“No more of travel, where the flaming sword
Of the great sun divides the heavens; no more
Of climbing over jutty steeps that swim
[129]
Where the dry bulrush crackles in the heat;
Of sycamores, and the red, dancing fires
And sink at last, to let the stars peep through;
Of ca?ons grown with pine, and folded deep
In golden mountain-sides; of airy sweeps
He mentioned the deep impression of ceaseless progress which the change of a few weeks had made in the growth of San Francisco. When he re-entered it, after his short stay in the mountains, he could not recognize the streets, while the inhabitants and their manners had undergone a change still more astonishing. Where there were tents a few days before, now were large buildings of wood, while the log-cabins and Chinese houses had, in many places, given place to structures of brick and stone. Wharves86 had been built, streets regularly laid out, banks opened, wholesale87 stores established, lines of steamers running to the various ports along the coast, and up the rivers; while the rude, dirty, careless, rushing multitude had assumed a cleanliness and a gravity, unequal of course to that of an Eastern city, but astonishingly in advance of the previous wildness. Law offices, brokers’ boards, smelting88 establishments, barber-shops, hotels, bakeries, laundries, and news-stands had all been established[130] in a confusingly short space of time. The place he found as a frontier camp, he found four months later a swarming89 yet civilized city, with all the officials, and some of the red tape which characterize older corporations. But San Francisco was not alone in its growth; for Sacramento, San José, Monterey, and many other towns and cities, had been as nothing, less than a year before. At the time he left San Francisco, they were populous90 cities and villages, teeming91 with a resistless, sleepless92 activity. To accurately93 record such a change, to give an anxious public correct information regarding that wonderland, and the fortune of their friends, and to bear a share in the work of establishing such a State, was the task of Mr. Taylor, and most creditably did he perform his part.
On leaving California, about the first of January, 1850, he decided94 to go down the coast to Mazatlan and thence overland through Mexico. He came to that conclusion after long consultations95 with his friends, none of whom could or dared accompany him, while all told him of robbers, deserts, impassable streams, and dangerous wild beasts which awaited all travellers in that benighted96 and trackless country. Mr. Taylor would have enjoyed some thrilling adventures; and the fears of his advisers97 only made him more decided in his determination to go. So, alone, and with but slight knowledge of the Spanish language, he disembarked at Mazatlan on the Mexican coast, near the[131] mouth of the Gulf98 of California, and with a pair of pistols and a dwarfed99 mule, started into the unknown wilds of that tropical land.
CASTLE OF CHAPULTEPEC.
His hardships were many, and his fatigue100 at times almost unbearable101; but his love for things new and strange, for the unexplored and unknown, kept him moving perseveringly102 on through the thickets and ravines of upper Mexico. By great skill and considerable assurance he managed to keep in the good graces of the people he met, and for several days, in the forests and in the villages, he met, with very kind and hospitable103 treatment.
On one occasion, however, he fell among thieves. Before he arrived at the city of Mexico, and while still in the wilderness104 of the interior of the Mexican highlands, he was suddenly attacked by three Mexican robbers, to whose marauding purposes he could make no resistance, he having placed such reliance upon the good faith of the natives as to carry his pistol without a cartridge106 in it. The banditti made him dismount and hand over what little money in coin he happened to have, and after taking such blankets and trinkets as they desired, left him with his hands tied behind him, to get on as best he could. Fortunately they did not want his horse, which he had bought in place of the useless mule, and after extricating107 himself from his bonds by long struggles, he mounted his horse and rode on to Mexico with his drafts for money all intact. He seems to have placed less reliance on the Mexicans,[132] after that encounter, and took good care to ride out of range of their muskets108 and to keep himself supplied with ammunition109.
His visit to the Mexican capital was an occasion of great interest to him, and brought up freshly and vividly110 the story which Prescott has so well told of the Aztecs and the heroic age of Cortez. No scene in Europe is said to combine such extremes of sweetness and grandeur111, of light and shade, of valley and hill, of plain and cragged highland105, of land and water, of art and nature, as the valley of Mexico. There he saw the evidences of prehistoric112 civilization, and looked with curiosity and awe113 upon the towering fortress114 of Chapultepec, which connects the present with the ages past. However, Mr. Taylor could not stop long in that charming vale, and hastened on over the battle-fields of Scott to Vera Cruz. From Vera Cruz he went by steamer to Mobile, from thence overland to Charleston, S. C., and by way of North Carolina, Virginia, and Washington, to New York, where, about the middle of March, he resumed his duties as editor of the “Tribune” with the thought that there he might stay the remainder of his life.
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1
poetic
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| adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的 | |
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earnings
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| n.工资收人；利润，利益，所得 | |
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naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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palatial
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| adj.宫殿般的，宏伟的 | |
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cholera
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| n.霍乱 | |
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bleaching
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| 漂白法，漂白 | |
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enthusiasts
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| n.热心人，热衷者( enthusiast的名词复数 ) | |
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thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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shanty
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| n.小屋，棚屋；船工号子 | |
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laborer
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| n.劳动者，劳工 | |
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insolvent
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| adj.破产的，无偿还能力的 | |
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tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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gambling
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| n.赌博；投机 | |
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plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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medleys
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| n.混杂物( medley的名词复数 )；混合物；混杂的人群；混成曲（多首声乐曲或器乐曲串联在一起） | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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din
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| n.喧闹声，嘈杂声 | |
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squandered
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| v.（指钱，财产等）浪费，乱花( squander的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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curdled
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| v.（使）凝结( curdle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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misery
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| n.痛苦，苦恼，苦难；悲惨的境遇，贫苦 | |
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31
generosity
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| n.大度，慷慨，慷慨的行为 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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graphic
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| adj.生动的，形象的，绘画的，文字的，图表的 | |
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innate
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| adj.天生的，固有的，天赋的 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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territorial
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| adj.领土的，领地的 | |
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chaos
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| n.混乱，无秩序 | |
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systematic
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| adj.有系统的，有计划的，有方法的 | |
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40
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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41
mar
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| vt.破坏，毁坏，弄糟 | |
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42
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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43
sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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44
posterity
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| n.后裔，子孙，后代 | |
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complexion
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| n.肤色；情况，局面；气质，性格 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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49
discord
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| n.不和，意见不合，争论，（音乐）不和谐 | |
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50
rebellious
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| adj.造反的，反抗的，难控制的 | |
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51
conspiracies
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| n.阴谋，密谋( conspiracy的名词复数 ) | |
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52
straightforward
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| adj.正直的，坦率的；易懂的，简单的 | |
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53
bode
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| v.预示 | |
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54
loom
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| n.织布机，织机；v.隐现，(危险、忧虑等)迫近 | |
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speck
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| n.微粒，小污点，小斑点 | |
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56
hovering
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| 鸟( hover的现在分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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prolific
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| adj.丰富的，大量的；多产的，富有创造力的 | |
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magpies
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| 喜鹊（magpie的复数形式） | |
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chatter
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| vi.／n.喋喋不休；短促尖叫；(牙齿)打战 | |
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60
blithely
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| adv.欢乐地，快活地，无挂虑地 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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wailing
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| v.哭叫，哀号( wail的现在分词 )；沱 | |
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foretold
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| v.预言，预示( foretell的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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defiant
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| adj.无礼的，挑战的 | |
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onset
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| n.进攻，袭击，开始，突然开始 | |
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69
besieging
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的现在分词 ) | |
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shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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71
coeval
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| adj.同时代的；n.同时代的人或事物 | |
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72
vex
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| vt.使烦恼，使苦恼 | |
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73
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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74
sapphire
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| n.青玉，蓝宝石；adj.天蓝色的 | |
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75
foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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76
lavish
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| adj.无节制的；浪费的；vt.慷慨地给予，挥霍 | |
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77
portrayed
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| v.画像( portray的过去式和过去分词 )；描述；描绘；描画 | |
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78
stunted
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| adj.矮小的；发育迟缓的 | |
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79
slants
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| （使）倾斜，歪斜( slant的第三人称单数 )； 有倾向性地编写或报道 | |
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80
mimicking
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| v.（尤指为了逗乐而）模仿( mimic的现在分词 )；酷似 | |
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81
marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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82
vault
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| n.拱形圆顶，地窖，地下室 | |
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83
efface
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| v.擦掉，抹去 | |
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84
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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85
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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86
wharves
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| n.码头，停泊处( wharf的名词复数 ) | |
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87
wholesale
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| n.批发；adv.以批发方式；vt.批发，成批出售 | |
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88
smelting
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| n.熔炼v.熔炼，提炼（矿石）( smelt的现在分词 ) | |
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89
swarming
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| 密集( swarm的现在分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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90
populous
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| adj.人口稠密的，人口众多的 | |
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91
teeming
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| adj.丰富的v.充满( teem的现在分词 )；到处都是；（指水、雨等）暴降；倾注 | |
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92
sleepless
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| adj.不睡眠的，睡不著的，不休息的 | |
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93
accurately
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| adv.准确地，精确地 | |
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94
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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95
consultations
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| n.磋商（会议）( consultation的名词复数 )；商讨会；协商会；查找 | |
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96
benighted
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| adj.蒙昧的 | |
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97
advisers
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| 顾问，劝告者( adviser的名词复数 )； （指导大学新生学科问题等的）指导教授 | |
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98
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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99
dwarfed
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| vt.（使）显得矮小（dwarf的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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100
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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101
unbearable
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| adj.不能容忍的；忍受不住的 | |
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102
perseveringly
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| 坚定地 | |
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103
hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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104
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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105
highland
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| n.(pl.)高地，山地 | |
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106
cartridge
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| n.弹壳，弹药筒；(装磁带等的)盒子 | |
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107
extricating
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| v.使摆脱困难，脱身( extricate的现在分词 ) | |
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108
muskets
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| n.火枪，（尤指）滑膛枪( musket的名词复数 ) | |
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109
ammunition
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| n.军火，弹药 | |
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110
vividly
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| adv.清楚地，鲜明地，生动地 | |
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111
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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112
prehistoric
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| adj.（有记载的）历史以前的，史前的，古老的 | |
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113
awe
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| n.敬畏，惊惧；vt.使敬畏，使惊惧 | |
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114
fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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