“The Poet came to the Land of the East,
When Spring was in the air:
The earth was dressed for a wedding feast,
So young she seemed, and fair;
And the poet knew the Land of the East—
His soul was native there.
All things to him were the visible forms
Of early and precious dreams,—
Familiar visions that mocked his quest
Beside the Western streams,
Or gleamed in the gold of the clouds, unrolled
In the sunset’s dying beams.”
—Taylor, 1852.
If there is any land where every grain of sand and every blade of grass is pervaded3 by thrilling associations, that land is Palestine. Especially and peculiarly animated4 are its hills and vales to a poet such as Taylor proved to be. It may be that some superficial and matter-of-fact people who have visited the Holy Land in the hot season, have not felt the charm of[183] its sacredness, owing to heat, barrenness, vermin, and beggars. There may be a small class of iconoclastic5 jokers, who, caring not how holy or tender the theme, never fail to use it for ridicule6, if it suits their humoristic purpose. But the large class of travellers who visit Jerusalem and the country round about, feel the inspiring presence of the Past, and enjoy in an indescribable fullness the associations connected with it. In a higher and nobler degree, the mind imbued7 with poetic8 images, a ready imagination, and a keen discernment of beauty in landscape or history, will avail itself of the great opportunities for pleasure and profit which such a land supplies. In this sense Mr. Taylor enjoyed a great advantage. He made his physical being so subordinate to his mental, that no fatigue9, no hunger, no thirst, no annoyance10 from beggars, nor fears of robbers, could interfere11 with the appreciation of the beautiful. How greatly he enjoyed his visit to Palestine, none but intimate friends ever knew. In his letters, he often gave way to enthusiastic expressions, and in his book, often gave very vivid descriptions of what had been, as well as that which then existed. But a fear of exaggeration through praise, and a modest misgiving12 lest his poetical13 fancy should not suit his readers, led him to write in a more prosy vein15 than he talked. In conversation with friends in Germany and America, and often in his lectures, after he had finished his tours, he graphically16 pictured the impressive events of the past connected[184] with Palestine, which seemed to pass like a panorama17 before him. To him, such a land would be full of interest, whether he trod its fields at a time of the year when it was luxuriant, or at a season when the sun and simoon have made it a desert. To lie upon its burning sands and dream of the sweltering hosts that fought around the spot; to bask18 in the cool shades of its olives and cedars19, and think of Gethsemane and the sweets of Sharon; to stand on the summit of the Mount of Olives, Carmel, or Hermon, and realize the almost overwhelming fact that before him were the plains, hills, valleys, conquered and reconquered since man was made, and which were peopled by the great, the good, the wild, and the bloodthirsty of every age; to recognize the localities where dwelt or fought the heroes of Holy Writ14; to feel the presence of the King of kings as “on mysterious wings” he swept the plain and shielded his people; to walk on the very path whereon the Son of God had often placed his feet; to dream in the starlight of Apostles, priests, Romans, Crusaders, and Saracens, was an experience especially gratifying to him, and interesting to a greater or less degree to all travellers. The writer recalls, perhaps in an imperfect form, a verse which Mr. Taylor wrote during his stay in Palestine, and which came to the writer with singular force while carelessly wandering along the valley between Jerusalem and the Mount of Olives.
[185]
“Thy strength, Jerusalem, is o’er,
And broken are thy walls;
But where thy Kings and Prophets trod,
Triumphant24 over death,
The Christ of Nazareth!
The halo of his presence fills
Thy courts, thy ways of men;
His footsteps on thy holy hills
Are beautiful as then;
His human agony,
Still haunts the awful olive-shade
Of old Gethsemane.”
To him the past was real. He saw the fields of corn, the ancient olive-trees, the high walls, and the high towers, upon which the Saviour27 looked. He saw again Abraham, Samuel, Saul, David, Isaiah, Jeremiah, Pilate, and their associates. He walked in imagination in the welcoming crowd as they strewed28 the branches along the path from Bethany to Jerusalem. He saw the council chamber29, the cross, and the ascension. He dreamed of the gathering30 armies at Antioch and Joppa, whose banners at last waved over the palace of Godfrey of Bouillon in Jerusalem. To him the gates of history swung wide open, and he wandered back through the centuries, meeting patriarch and maiden31, shepherd and warrior32, prophet and judge, seer and apostle, in a companionship social and confidential33. It was like long generations of experience[186] to walk those hallowed fields and realize the wonderful tales of history. In this, as much as in the views of the present, is found the profit resulting from travel in such lands. One lives over the tales of which he has read, with each locality serving as a fresh reminder34 of the unnoted details. He is an old man in experience who has travelled in the right spirit over those eldest lands of the world; and few indeed is the number of tourists who can feel that they have done so.
Mr. Taylor, like Longfellow, Tennyson, and Scott, had a gift of looking through the present into the past, and held delightful35 communion with the old days. Trying, however, with a laudable desire to instruct his readers, he kept studiously close to the simple facts of his actual experience, and in his narrative36 seldom allowed himself to fall into poetical expressions.
He left Egypt about the middle of the month of April and landed at Beyrout, which was not at that time, nor since, a very attractive locality. It was made more unpleasant to him by an incarceration37 in a kind of prison called the “Quarantine.” But with a resignation worthy38 of the oldest Turk, he made the best of his circumstances, and judging by the account he has given of it, he had an easy, jolly time of it. Released from the prison he travelled down the shore of the Mediterranean39 to Tyre, with whose remnant he seems to have been deeply impressed. The old Tyre, with its fleets, with its enormous stocks of merchandise,[187] with its lofty piles of cedar20 timber, with its gorgeous purple robes, with its bulwarks40 and battlements, with its armed defenders41 and hosts of besiegers, arose from its crumbled42 fragments and passed through the panoramic43 changes which so startle the student of Syrian history.
After leaving the village which now replaces the ancient city, he rode down the sandy shore and composed a poem which was afterwards somewhat changed, but in which was retained the boldness of the waves, which then beat at his feet.
The thundering surf of ocean beats on the rocks of Tyre,—
Beats on the fallen columns and round the headland roars,
And calls with angry clamor, that speaks its long desire:
Within her cunning harbor, choked with invading sand,
And from the reef the pharos no longer flings its fire,
“Where is the wealth of ages that heaped thy princely mart?
The tributes of the islands thy squadrons homeward bore,
When in thy gates triumphant they entered from the sea
With sound of horn and sackbut, of harp and psaltery.”
The pomp and power departed, the lost magnificence:
[188]
The hills were proud to see thee, and they are sadder now;
The sea was proud to bear thee, and wears a troubled brow,
‘Where are the ships of Tarshish, the mighty ships of Tyre?’”
One of the most sublime58 experiences of life is to stand where he stood, with the great waves rolling up the beach and shaking the earth with their powerful surges, and with the spray breaking about the dark ruins of the ancient city, and there repeat the poem from which the above verses are taken. It gives power and life to the words which can never be felt or seen by those who have never heard the bellowings or felt the shocks of the Mediterranean surf.
From Tyre he ascended59 Mount Carmel, and following the shore to Jaffa, took the usual route to Jerusalem. It was the most pleasant season of the year (April), and all vegetation was fast springing into its bountiful life. The cactus60, orange, and pomegranate were in bloom, and all nature seemed in its most cheerful mood. So like a paradise did it look to him, that it was some little time before he could get into that frame of mind which brought a realization61 that he was in that land of great renown62. But as that thrilling moment arrived when he stepped upon the highest plateau of the mountains near Jerusalem and looked with astonished eyes over the valley and on the “City of our God and the mountain of his holiness,” he felt, with a sudden thrill, that he was in the presence of the Great and the Holy. With emotions that cannot[189] be described he rode over those sacred fields and entered the gates of the city.
From Jerusalem he made an excursion, by the way of Bethany, to the Dead Sea. It was a sultry day, and he suffered much from the heat, having therein a suggestion of the rain of fire and brimstone which destroyed the cities whose ruins are supposed to be petrified63 at the bottom of the Dead Sea. With his usual hardihood he plunged64 fearlessly into the bituminous waters of the Dead Sea, and seemed to enjoy what no traveller who has since indulged in that bath is known to have enjoyed, the buoyance of the water and the sensations caused by the volcanic65 materials held in solution.
On his return to the city he remained for several days examining the sacred localities and contending with the crowds of beggars and guides who blocked the narrow and filthy67 streets of Jerusalem. The wretchedness, poverty, disease, and filth66 of the people are so prominent and so loathsome68, that unless the ordinary traveller keeps constantly on his guard, he will forget all the old and holy associations in his disgust for the city of to-day. It is said that the city is less dirty and less stricken with disease than it was in 1850. If such be the fact, it is a marvel69 indeed how Mr. Taylor ever found a fit place for his Muse70, which so frequently visited him there. He seems, however, to have been deeply interested in everything, having about as little faith in what the guides told him about[190] the locality of the Holy Sepulchre, Calvary, Gethsemane, and the true cross, as travellers in more modern times appear to entertain. Jerusalem was not only all that we have represented it to be outwardly, but the people would lie beyond the fables71 of any other people; would steal and would murder. To be much troubled by these facts would destroy the poetry of the place, and Mr. Taylor allowed none of those things to move him. He wrote of the facts as he found them, uncolored by the imagination, and seems to have flattered himself that he was not as sentimental72 as the travellers who had preceded him. If he was so very practical, whence such beautiful poetry?
“Fair shines the moon, Jerusalem,
Upon the hills that wore
The stars on hallowed Olivet
And over Zion burn,
On the 7th of May he left Jerusalem, in company with another traveller and the mule-drivers, taking the route by way of Samaria to Nazareth through a country at that season covered with the richest and freshest foliage77. Along the entire route the tourist seldom passes out of sight of broken columns, falling fortresses78, gray old monasteries79, dismal80 hermitages, and Roman masonry81. The olive and fig82 trees shaded[191] the path, and with the wide fields of grain gave the appearance of thrift83 and enterprise. He visited Shechem, where it is said that Joseph was buried, and near which he was thrown into the pit by his brethren. There Mr. Taylor saw Samaritans of the original stock, and there he was shown an ancient manuscript of Hebrew Law, said to be three thousand years old.
He made a short stop at Nazareth and was shown where the mother of Christ had resided, the table from which Christ ate, and the school-room (?) in which Christ is said to have been taught.
Going thence he ascended Mount Tabor, as it was his custom to climb all the mountains he could reach, and then hastened on to the Sea of Galilee. There he swam in its crystal water, and visited the Mount of Beatitudes, Joseph’s Well, and Magadala, the home of Mary Magdalene. Passing Cesarea Philippi, and crossing the anti-Lebanon range of mountains in imminent84 danger of robbery and death from the rebellious85 tribes of Druses which inhabited that region, they came out on the afternoon of May 19th in view of the lovely city of Damascus.
Mr. Taylor made a sketch86 of himself as he appeared in his Eastern costume, while seated on an eminence87 that afternoon, overlooking the most ancient city in the world. In one of the rooms of Mr. Taylor’s lovely home of Cedarcroft there hangs a large painting, of considerable merit, and said to be an excellent portrait, which was executed by a friend from that sketch.[192] It represents Mr. Taylor sitting in Oriental posture88, on the mountain-side, with the domes89, minarets90, and embowered walls of Damascus on the distant plain. He always held that painting to be a treasure, connecting him, as it did, with those scenes of early travel, and with the friend who made the painting, and with those who admired it.
He was delighted with Damascus. It was placed in the centre of a plain whereon grew in the greatest abundance all the fruits and all the varieties of leaf and blossom known to the tropic zone. No other spot yet explored can boast such beautiful trees; such a profusion91 of roses; such blossoms of jessamine and pomegranate; such loads of walnuts92, figs93, olives, apricots; such luxuriant grasses, and such productive fields, as that land which has been cultivated by man the longest. Nature has set the crown upon Damascus and blessed it with a superabundance of vegetable life. But what is given to verdure seems to be taken from humanity, for, regarded as a whole, he found the people of the city to be a rather bad lot. Yet there, as elsewhere, he found agreeable companions and warm friends. He made himself so much at home that he soon appeared like a native, and all the labyrinths94 of bazars and alleys21 were as familiar to him after a few days’ stay as they seemed to be to the oldest resident. He liked their life so well that he soon learned to enjoy to its full the physical comfort and mental rest of the Turkish bath. He ever after referred to the bath[193] at Damascus as the acme95 of bodily satisfaction. The fact that so many travellers have been disappointed in the enjoyment96 of the bath does not show Mr. Taylor’s account to be so much overdrawn97, as it shows the difference between the pleasure to be derived98 from the pastimes of any people by those who adhere more or less to their own tastes and customs, and those who, like Mr. Taylor, fall wholly and heartily99 into the ways and thoughts of the native. When in Damascus, he not only did as they do outwardly, but he set his mind in the same channel, and knew what it was to be a Turk in aspirations100 as well as in dress. No other traveller known to literature ever entered so completely into the experience and social companionship of the people whom he visited.
In order that he might leave no habit untried which came within his reach, he took a potion of hashish, to test its strength and effects. The drug did not begin to intoxicate101 him quite as soon as he expected, and he doubled the dose, thus taking six times as much as would intoxicate an ordinary Turk. It made him terribly ill; and it was almost miraculous102 that he survived the shock to his system. He did not try the strength of that drug again. Among the friends he made, and whose home he visited at Damascus, was a family of Maronite Christians103, who, eight years later, were heinously104 butchered by the Moslems during the great massacre105 following the Druses’ and Marnoites’ dispute in 1860.
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1
appreciation
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| n.评价；欣赏；感谢；领会，理解；价格上涨 | |
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eldest
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| adj.最年长的，最年老的 | |
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pervaded
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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iconoclastic
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| adj.偶像破坏的，打破旧习的 | |
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ridicule
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| v.讥讽，挖苦；n.嘲弄 | |
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7
imbued
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| v.使（某人/某事）充满或激起（感情等）( imbue的过去式和过去分词 )；使充满；灌输；激发（强烈感情或品质等） | |
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poetic
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| adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的 | |
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9
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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11
interfere
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| v.(in)干涉，干预；(with)妨碍，打扰 | |
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12
misgiving
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| n.疑虑，担忧，害怕 | |
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13
poetical
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| adj.似诗人的；诗一般的；韵文的；富有诗意的 | |
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14
writ
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| n.命令状，书面命令 | |
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15
vein
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| n.血管，静脉；叶脉，纹理；情绪；vt.使成脉络 | |
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16
graphically
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| adv.通过图表；生动地，轮廓分明地 | |
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17
panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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18
bask
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| vt.取暖，晒太阳，沐浴于 | |
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19
cedars
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| 雪松，西洋杉( cedar的名词复数 ) | |
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20
cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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alleys
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| 胡同，小巷( alley的名词复数 )； 小径 | |
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22
harp
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| n.竖琴；天琴座 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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24
triumphant
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| adj.胜利的，成功的；狂欢的，喜悦的 | |
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25
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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26
bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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27
saviour
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| n.拯救者，救星 | |
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28
strewed
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| v.撒在…上( strew的过去式和过去分词 )；散落于；点缀；撒满 | |
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29
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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30
gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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31
maiden
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| n.少女，处女；adj.未婚的，纯洁的，无经验的 | |
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32
warrior
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| n.勇士，武士，斗士 | |
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confidential
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| adj.秘（机）密的，表示信任的，担任机密工作的 | |
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34
reminder
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| n.提醒物，纪念品；暗示，提示 | |
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35
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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36
narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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incarceration
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| n.监禁，禁闭；钳闭 | |
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38
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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39
Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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40
bulwarks
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| n.堡垒( bulwark的名词复数 )；保障；支柱；舷墙 | |
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41
defenders
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| n.防御者( defender的名词复数 )；守卫者；保护者；辩护者 | |
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42
crumbled
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| （把…）弄碎， （使）碎成细屑( crumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 衰落； 坍塌； 损坏 | |
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43
panoramic
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| adj. 全景的 | |
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44
lurid
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| adj.可怕的；血红的；苍白的 | |
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45
hurls
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| v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的第三人称单数 )；大声叫骂 | |
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46
foamy
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| adj.全是泡沫的，泡沫的，起泡沫的 | |
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47
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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48
galleys
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| n.平底大船，战舰( galley的名词复数 )；（船上或航空器上的）厨房 | |
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49
prostrate
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| v.拜倒，平卧，衰竭；adj.拜倒的，平卧的，衰竭的 | |
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50
gales
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| 龙猫 | |
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51
colonnades
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| n.石柱廊( colonnade的名词复数 ) | |
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52
granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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53
beacon
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| n.烽火，（警告用的）闪火灯，灯塔 | |
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54
gems
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| growth； economy； management； and customer satisfaction 增长 | |
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55
spicy
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| adj.加香料的；辛辣的，有风味的 | |
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56
laments
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| n.悲恸，哀歌，挽歌( lament的名词复数 )v.（为…）哀悼，痛哭，悲伤( lament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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57
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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58
sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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59
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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60
cactus
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| n.仙人掌 | |
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61
realization
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| n.实现；认识到，深刻了解 | |
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62
renown
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| n.声誉，名望 | |
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63
petrified
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| adj.惊呆的；目瞪口呆的v.使吓呆，使惊呆；变僵硬；使石化(petrify的过去式和过去分词) | |
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64
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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65
volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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66
filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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67
filthy
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| adj.卑劣的；恶劣的，肮脏的 | |
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68
loathsome
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| adj.讨厌的，令人厌恶的 | |
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69
marvel
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| vi.(at)惊叹vt.感到惊异；n.令人惊异的事 | |
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70
muse
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| n.缪斯（希腊神话中的女神），创作灵感 | |
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71
fables
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| n.寓言( fable的名词复数 )；神话，传说 | |
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sentimental
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| adj.多愁善感的，感伤的 | |
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73
diadem
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| n.王冠，冕 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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75
splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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76
majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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77
foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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78
fortresses
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| 堡垒，要塞( fortress的名词复数 ) | |
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79
monasteries
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| 修道院( monastery的名词复数 ) | |
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80
dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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81
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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82
fig
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| n.无花果(树) | |
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83
thrift
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| adj.节约，节俭；n.节俭，节约 | |
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84
imminent
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| adj.即将发生的，临近的，逼近的 | |
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85
rebellious
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| adj.造反的，反抗的，难控制的 | |
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86
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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87
eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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88
posture
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| n.姿势，姿态，心态，态度；v.作出某种姿势 | |
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89
domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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90
minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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91
profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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92
walnuts
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| 胡桃（树）( walnut的名词复数 )； 胡桃木 | |
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figs
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| figures 数字，图形，外形 | |
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labyrinths
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| 迷宫( labyrinth的名词复数 )； （文字，建筑）错综复杂的 | |
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95
acme
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| n.顶点，极点 | |
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96
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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97
overdrawn
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| 透支( overdraw的过去分词 )； (overdraw的过去分词) | |
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98
derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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99
heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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100
aspirations
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| 强烈的愿望( aspiration的名词复数 )； 志向； 发送气音； 发 h 音 | |
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101
intoxicate
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| vt.使喝醉，使陶醉，使欣喜若狂 | |
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102
miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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103
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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104
heinously
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| adv.可憎地，极恶地 | |
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105
massacre
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| n.残杀，大屠杀；v.残杀，集体屠杀 | |
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