Some few persons imagine that to possess a proper mastery over their horses, they must maintain their authority by brute1 force. This is a great mistake. More work, within the limit of safety, can be got out of a horse by kindness than by cruelty, and as far as managing a horse is concerned the chief point is to teach him confidence in you. If he believes you to be his friend he will not only strive to please you, but will have less fear of strange objects which otherwise might startle him and render him refractory2.
The Rareys—there are two or three of them—taught the world a most important lesson when they taught it the “power of kindness” and “self-control” in the management of horses, donkeys, zebras, and other animals. How often do we see inconsiderate parents fly into a passion and, without reason or religion, thrash the object of their displeasure. So of brutal4, heartless drivers, when the “blinded” horses chance to misstep, get off the track, stumble, or in the wrong place. By their actions it would appear that they expected a horse or an ass3 to reason quite as well as themselves. Employers may not look for the same talent in their apprentices5 as in their foreman. Teachers may expect every little urchin7 to be self-regulating and to mind his books; but this it is his duty to teach him to do, and he should be all patience, all kindness, affection, perseverance8, if he would produce the best results. The same spirit is required to subdue9 and manage a horse. If you say you are not equal to the task; if you say your child, your horse, or 18your ox knows more than you, is your master, then you are not the one to manage him, and you should resign in favor of one who is superior to child, horse, or ox. A weak man in intellect may indeed be outwitted by a sagacious child or horse.
There is no disguising the fact that viciousness is innate10 with some horses. But far more so with some, nay11, most, men, from whom they get it. It is no doubt sometimes hereditary12, and follows some of the best strains of blood we have. That viciousness should accompany a highly nervous organization is not to be wondered at. Hence it causes no surprise when we find such dispositions14 among the finely organized thoroughbreds—animals of a most sensitive and nervous organization—from which the common expression “thin skinned,” as applied15 to a too sensitive man, is obviously derived16. The treatment horses receive, and the moral atmosphere in which they are thrown, have a much greater influence than most horsemen are generally inclined to admit. The pinching, tickling17, rough, boisterous18 stable boy who annoys a spirited horse for the sake of enjoying his futile19, though almost frantic20 kicks and leers, is affecting the disposition13 of the horse and his descendants for generations to come, besides putting in jeopardy22 the lives and limbs of those who are brought in contact with the horse so tampered23 with. A horse is surely influenced by the character of the men with whom he associates.
Sometimes, however, it is necessary to conquer a bad tempered horse, and if possible to secure a radical24 conversion25 or change of character which shall be lasting26. No timorous27 man need undertake this task; he will only make matters worse. A horse tamer should be calm, cool, brave, and fearless—the horse will know it; he should be quiet, for then the horse will be put off his guard; he should be firm and give the brute no advantage, but crowd him up to doing something, and that, invariably, what the tamer wants him to do. Thus any ordinary horse will soon give up and own man his master. The kindest treatment and even petting must always follow yielding; and if possible to help it, the horse should never be frightened by any treatment, and above all things he should never be angered by petty torture. His own contrariness should appear to him to be the cause of all his trouble, and man his best friend. This principle is at the foundation of Rarey’s successful practice.
POWELL’S MANAGEMENT OF WILD HORSES.
Place your horse in a small yard, or in a stable or room. If in a stable or room, it ought to be large, in order to give him some exercise with the halter before you lead him out. If the 19horse belongs to that class which appears only to fear man, you must introduce yourself gently into the stable, room, or yard, where the horse is. He will naturally run from you, and frequently turn his head from you; for you must walk about extremely slow and softly, so that he can see you whenever he turns his head toward you, which he never fails to do in a short time, say in a quarter or half an hour. I never knew one to be much longer without turning toward me.
At the very moment he turns his head, hold out your hand toward him, and stand perfectly28 still, keeping your eyes upon the horse, watching his motions, if he makes any. If the horse does not stir for ten or fifteen minutes, advance as slowly as possible, and without making the least noise, always holding out your left hand, without any other ingredient in it than what nature put in it. I have made use of certain ingredients before people, such as the sweat under my arm, etc., to disguise the real secret and many believed that the docility29 to which the horse arrived in so short a time was owing to these ingredients; but you see from this explanation that they were of no use whatever. The implicit30 faith placed in these ingredients, though innocent of themselves, becomes “faith without works.” And thus men always remained in doubt concerning the secret. If the horse makes the least motion when you advance toward him, stop, and remain perfectly still until he is quiet. Remain a few moments in this condition, and then advance again in the same slow and almost imperceptible manner. Take notice, if the horse stirs, stop, without changing your position. It is very uncommon31 for the horse to stir more than once after you begin to advance, yet there are exceptions. He generally keeps his eyes steadfast32 on you, until you get near enough to touch him on the forehead. When you are thus near to him, raise your hand slowly and by degrees, and let it come in contact with that part just above the nostrils33 as lightly as possible. If the horse flinches34 (as many will,) repeat with great rapidity these light strokes upon the forehead, going a little farther up toward his ears by degrees, and descending35 with the same rapidity until he will let you handle his forehead all over. Now let the strokes be repeated with more force all over his forehead, descending by lighter36 strokes to each side of his head, until you can handle that part with equal facility. Then touch in the same light manner, making your hands and fingers play around the lower part of the horse’s ears, coming down now and then to his forehead, which may be looked upon as the helm that governs all the rest.
Having succeeded in handling his ears, advance toward the 20neck with the same precaution, and in the same manner; observing always to augment37 the force of the strokes whenever the horse will permit it. Perform the same on both sides of the neck, until he lets you take it in your arms without flinching38.
Proceed in the same progressive manner to the sides, and then to the back of the horse. Every time the horse shows any nervousness, return immediately to the forehead, as the true standard, patting him with your hands, and thence rapidly to where you had already arrived, always gaining ground a considerable distance farther on every time this happens. The head, ears, neck, and body being thus gentled, proceed from the back to the root of the tail.
This must be managed with dexterity39, as a horse is never to be depended on that is skittish40 about the tail. Let your hand fall lightly and rapidly on that part next to the body a minute or two, and then you will begin to give it a slight pull upward every quarter of a minute. At the same time you continue this handling of him, augment the force of the strokes as well as the raising of the tail, until you can raise it and handle it with the greatest ease, which commonly happens in a quarter of an hour in most horses, in others almost immediately, and in some much longer. It now remains41 to handle all his legs; from the tail come back again to the head, handle it well, as likewise the ears, breast, neck, etc., speaking now and then to the horse. Begin by degrees to descend21 to the legs, always ascending42 and descending, gaining ground every time you descend, until you get to his feet.
Talk to the horse while thus taming him; let him hear the sound of your voice, which at the beginning of the operation is not quite so necessary, but which I have always done in making him lift up his feet. “Hold up your foot,” you will say; at the same time lifting his foot with your hand. He soon becomes familiar with the sounds, and will hold up his foot at command. Then proceed to the hind43 feet and go on in the same manner; and in a short time the horse will let you lift them, and even take them up in your arms.
All this operation is no magnetism44, or galvanism; it is merely taking away the fear a horse generally has of a man, and familiarizing the animal with his master. As the horse doubtless experiences a certain pleasure from this handling, he will soon become gentle under it, and show a very marked attachment46 to his keeper.
MANAGING HORSES BY KINDNESS.
A lady visiting Egypt some years ago, gave in one of her 21letters to her friends at home, an instance of the power of gentleness in controlling even the most spirited of horses. She gives the following description of her experience with the Arabian horses: “I fear you may deem me rather boastful of my horsemanship when I tell you that the two Arab horses which threw their cavaliers did not throw me. The cause of the exception was not in me or my skill; it was the very remarkable47 predilection48 these intelligent animals feel toward individuals of the weaker sex. Let the wildest and fiercest Arabian be mounted by a woman, and you will see him suddenly grow mild and gentle as a lamb. I have had plenty of opportunities to make the experiment, and in my own stables there is a beautiful gray Arabian which nobody but myself dares to ride. He knows me, anticipates my wishes, and judiciously49 calculates the degree of fatigue50 I can bear without inconvenience. It is curious to see how he can manage to quicken his pace without shaking me, and the different sorts of steps he has invented to realize those contradictory51 purposes. Horses being as liable to forgetfulness as other organized beings, my incomparable gray would allow his natural ambition to overcome his gallantry, and if another horse threatened to pass him, would start off with the speed of the whirlwind. Woe53 to me if, under these circumstances, I were to trust to the strength of my arm or the power of the bridle54! I knew my gallant52 charger better. Leaving my hand quite loose, and abandoning all thoughts of compulsion, I would take to persuasion55; pat him on the neck; call him by his name; beg him to be quiet and deserve the piece of sugar waiting for him at home. Never did these gentle means fail. Instantly he would slacken his pace, prick56 up his ears as if fully57 comprehending his error, and come back to a soft amble58, gently neighing as if to crave59 pardon for his momentary60 offense61.”
This power of women over the Arabian horses is partly due, no doubt, to the fact that when still a colt he is reared in the back part of the tent, the movable harem of the Arab. He is constantly petted, and it is the women who see that he is supplied with food, and tenderly cared for. It is the attachment which is by these means awakened62 in the horse that leads him to so cheerfully yield obedience63 to the female voice. Deservedly high as may stand the Arabian horse for docility and sagacity, it should not be forgotten that, in the absence of all other amusements, the education of the foal becomes a pleasure as well as a business; it thus becomes attached to its biped companions, and takes a pride in enacting64 all that is required of him. If his rider falls, the horse will stand by and neigh for assistance; if he lies down to sleep, the horse will watch over him 22and give notice of the approach of man or beast. Similar anecdotes65 are related of all horses kindly66 treated, no matter where may be their home. We heard of one who had a drunken master, and this horse surpassed the Arab example even in intelligence, for he would modify his gait so as to keep his reeling rider from falling off; and if this catastrophe67 did happen, the horse would stand for hours, regardless of food or drink, and with anger and determination attack man or beast that would approach too near.
TO CURE A STUBBORN DISPOSITION.
If your horse, instead of being wild, seems to be of a stubborn or mulish disposition; if he lays back his ears as you approach him, or turns his heels to kick you, he has not the regard or fear of man that he should have to enable you to handle him quickly and easily; and it might be well to give him a few sharp cuts with the whip, about the legs, pretty close to the body. It will crack keenly as it plies68 around his legs, and the crack of the whip will affect him as much as the stroke; besides one sharp cut about his legs will affect him more than two or three over his back, the skin on the inner part of his legs or about his flank being thinner, more tender, than on his back. But do not whip him much—just enough to frighten him; it is not because we want to hurt the horse that we whip him—we only do it to frighten vice69 and stubbornness out of him. But whatever you do, do quickly, sharply, and with a good deal of fire, but always without anger. If you are going to frighten him at all, you must do it at once. Never go into a pitched battle with your horse, and whip him until he is mad and will fight you; it would be better not to touch him at all, for you will establish, instead of fear and respect, feelings of resentment71, hatred72, and ill-will. It will do him no good, but harm, to strike him, unless you can frighten him; but if you can succeed in frightening him, you can whip him without making him mad; for fear and anger never exist together in the horse, and as soon as one is visible, you will find that the other has disappeared. As soon as you have frightened him, so that he will stand up straight and pay some attention to you, approach him again, and caress73 him a good deal more than you whipped him; thus you will excite the two controlling passions of his nature, love and fear; he will love and fear you too; and, as soon as he learns what you require, will obey quickly. The stubbornness once broken down, there is seldom any farther trouble of that score, if the horse be afterward74 managed with judgment75 and kindness. He will appreciate your kindness and become desirous of pleasing you.
23
THE CORD AND LINE WEBBING.
One of the main appliances used by horse tamers is a three or four ply70 cord or rope, one of cotton being the best, such as is used by the Indians for subduing76 their horses. This cord is a powerful instrument for either good or evil, as it is properly or improperly77 used. It may be prepared by any one in the manner shown in the engraving78:
LOOPING THE CORD.
A knot is to be tied in each end, then make a loop by doubling the cord and passing the knot through as represented above. Be careful to make the loops at such a distance from the knot as will allow the cord to pass around the neck at one end, and the lower jaw79 at the other, passing the knot through the loop from the opposite side of the loop to where it passed through in making the lap. The necessity for this will be seen on applying the cord. The object is to obtain steady pressure upon the lower jaw, as well as friction80 in the mouth.
In addition to the cord a piece of worsted webbing, such as is used for driving lines should be prepared in the following manner: Divide it into two parts, one piece being of sufficient length to girt the body. Make a loop in one end large enough for the other end to pass through, so as, when adjusted it is sufficiently81 long to tie. These pieces of webbing will be useful in carrying out future directions.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO STOP.
The word “whoa” should be used only to stop a horse when he is in motion. Never use it when you approach a horse standing82 quietly. Horses soon learn to distinguish any word often addressed to them, and they should learn to associate it with some definite and exact duty which you wish them to perform. If any word of command is used indiscriminately, or out of its proper place, the animal becomes confused and loses the association between the word and the object desired.
To teach a horse the meaning of the word “whoa,” the arrangement shown in the accompanying illustration may be used. Put the large web, previously83 described, around his 24near fore6 foot, pass it under the girth; and as the animal walks along, pull up the foot, saying at the same instant, “Whoa.” He will be brought to a stop, and by repeating the lesson he will soon raise the foot and stop even though the web is not pulled upon.
“WHOA.”
TEACHING THE HORSE TO BACK.
TO TEACH A HORSE TO BACK.
Put the cord upon the horse, using the small loop; draw it with a steady pull; this brings the horse’s nose toward his body. Keep a firm hold upon the cord until he steps back a little, using at the same time the word “back.” Then caress him; by doing so you show him that he has done exactly as you wished him to, and the caresses84 should be repeated every 25time he obeys. The utmost gentleness must be observed in order not to excite him, and the lesson should not be long enough to tire him. Five to ten minutes being the best length, repeated at intervals85 of a few hours. As soon as he understands what you desire he will probably back promptly86 at command.
TO MAKE A HORSE FOLLOW YOU.
The directions make simple what have hitherto been among the mysteries of the circus. Turn the horse into a large stable or shed, where there is no chance to get out, with a halter or bridle on. Go to him and gentle him a little, take hold of his halter, and turn him toward you, at the same time touching87 him lightly over the hips88 with a long whip. Lead him the length of the stable, rubbing him on the neck, saying in a steady tone of voice, “Come along, boy!” or use his name instead of “boy,” if you choose. Every time you turn, touch him slightly with the whip, to make him step up close to you, and then caress him with your hand. He will soon learn to hurry up to escape the whip and be caressed89, and you can make him follow you around without taking hold of the halter. If he should stop and turn from you, give him a few sharp cuts about the hind legs, and he will soon turn his head toward you, when you must always caress him. A few lessons of this kind will make him run after you, when he sees the motion of the whip—in twenty or thirty minutes he will follow you about the stable. After you have given him two or three lessons in the stable, take him out into a small field and train him; and thence you can take him into the road and make him follow you anywhere, and run after you.
TO STAND WITHOUT HOLDING.
To make a horse stand without holding, after you have him well broken to follow you, place him in the center of the stable—begin at his head to caress him, gradually working backward. If he moves give him a cut with the whip, and put him back to the same spot from which he started. If he stands, caress him as before, and continue gentling him in this way until you can get round him without making him move. Keep walking around him, increasing your pace, and only touch him occasionally. Enlarge your circle as you walk around, and if he then moves, give him another cut with the whip, and put him back to his place. If he stands, go to him frequently and caress him, and then walk around him again. Do not keep him in one position too long at a time, but make him come to you occasionally, and follow you around the stable. Then make him stand in another 26place, and proceed as before. You should not train your horse more than half an hour at a time.
WHIP TRAINING.
So accustomed are we to the use of bit and reins91 for driving that we have got to consider them absolutely requisite93 for guiding a horse. Horses however may, if properly taught, be driven without either bit or reins, merely by signals with the whip. Probably the simplest and most concise94 directions for whip training are given by Mr. Jennings in his valuable work on training horses. Mr. Jennings says:
“To train a horse thoroughly95 to drive without bit or line, under the whip, requires from four to six weeks’ time; it requires also a man of strong nerve and self-control to be a successful trainer in this particular branch. Whip training illustrates96 the beauty and power of our system of horse training. Such a feat97 as driving a horse without bit or line cannot be accomplished98 by any other system known to man. Having selected a horse with a moderate share of intelligence, the next thing is to secure a suitable place for training. An enclosure twenty-five or thirty feet square is required. If you have it smaller, and your horse should be disposed to kick, you would be in danger; if larger it gives the animal too much room to get away from the whip. It is better that you go in with the horse alone, as then the animal will have no other object to take his attention. Turn him loose without bridle or halter in the enclosure; take your position in the centre, holding in your right hand a straight whip nine or ten feet long; you crack the whip as you take your position; this alarms the horse and causes him to run into one corner of the enclosure; crack it several times that he may learn that you do not intend to hurt him; now commence tapping him lightly upon the near shoulder, but not to hurt him; if a nervy fellow he is all excitement for a few minutes; continue the tapping until he turns his head toward you, which he will do in a short time. The moment he turns it, however slight it may be, cease the whipping; as soon as he turns it away again repeat the tapping with the whip; in a few minutes he again turns his head toward you; stop the motion of the whip; as he turns away repeat the whip tapping as before; in a very short time he turns around so that you can approach him; now gently caress him; move away and again approach him; should he turn away repeat the whipping, by this means you teach him to come to you on the near side. After he has learned this thoroughly, which requires about one week’s training, half an hour each day, then proceed in the same manner upon the off side; as soon as 27he obeys the motion of the whip upon this side, take your position behind him, and turn him by the motion of the whip to the right or to the left; as soon as he performs nicely, put the harness upon him, take the lines behind him, and, as you give him the word to go forward, throw the whip down by his right side without touching him, at the same time have the long web around the near fore foot, and give it to an assistant; you want him to stop, give him the word ‘Whoa,’ at the same time your assistant pulls up the foot, turn the whip in a horizontal position above your head—in this way you teach him that the whip in that position means ‘Whoa.’ By repeating these motions, he learns in about four weeks to turn to the right whenever the whip is thrown toward the right shoulder; to the left when thrown toward the left shoulder; to go ahead when thrown down by the right side; and to stop when held in a horizontal position. You now want to teach him to back; having previously instructed him according to our rule, put the cord, using the small loop, in his mouth; take the cord in your hand with the reins, pull upon the reins and say ‘Back,’ at the same time keep the whip directly over the animal’s back, giving it an upward and downward motion, or you may tap him gently upon the back with the whip—this is best done in a sulky. If he starts forward, set him back by pulling quickly upon the cord; repeat the operation until he will go back by the motion of the whip alone. Should he make repeated efforts to go forward, bring the whip quickly once or twice down over his nose, he will not then repeat the operation very often; with this training, it is necessary to use an open bridle, so that the animal will see the motion of the whip; you are now prepared to hook him up for the first drive. Take an assistant with you; have the foot strap99 or long web secured upon the near fore foot; give it in charge of your assistant; let the lines lie over the dash, as a matter of precaution. Now commence operations with the whip; if the animal acts promptly, remove the foot web and begin again, having the lines over the dash as before; drive the animal in this way at least two or three weeks before removing the bit from the mouth. Your horse is now safe to drive under the whip.”
The large and noble looking horses which draw the trucks of the safe manufacturers in this city, are hitched101 in single file, only the rear one having reins attached. Sometimes six or eight horses will be required to draw the ponderous102 load, and the coolness and dexterity with which they wend their way through the confused mass of vehicles in the crowded streets is a truly remarkable sight. Without any guidance the leader will press onward103 through the mass, deftly104 avoiding collisions 28and entanglement105. Changes of route, stoppages, etc., are effected by such orders as “Whoa,” “Gee,” “Haw,” which the leader promptly and intelligently obeys.
TO CURE BALKY HORSES.
From the number of “infallible recipes” given in the papers for curing balky horses we should judge a little light on the subject is called for by horsemen. The various remedies which different correspondents describe as having proved effective in their own experience would form a curious collection, though some of them betray a remarkable lack of real knowledge about the matter. One genius has discovered that stuffing a horse’s mouth and nostrils with road dust is highly successful. Another humane107 individual deeply deplores108 the barbarous practice of whacking109 balky horses over the head and legs, and suggests that there should be substituted a system of steady, but not very severe, pounding in one spot with a “smooth club,” until “the pain grows intolerable and he starts nervously110 forward.” One hero, whose valor111 deserves to be chronicled for the admiration112 of future ages, thus modestly relates his experience with “one of the perverse113 animals,” as he calls his horse:
“The first work I did with him after he came into my possession was to draw a load of hay from the meadow. He started a few rods and then stood still, and no amount of urging that I could command would induce him to budge114 an inch. I took the pitchfork and sat down on the fore end of the load and began to prick him about the root of his tail, inserting the tines just through the skin. He kicked, but the load of hay was a complete protection. I kept on, moderately and persistently115 pricking116 for about five minutes, when he started for the barn. He never attempted to balk106 but once after, when the mere45 sight of the pitchfork was sufficient to make him draw.”
In Cecil county, Maryland, a farmer resorted to a rather novel expedient117 for getting some “go” out of a balky horse. Having loaded his wagon118 rather heavily with wheat, the horses were either unable or refused to draw it. After trying for some time to put them in motion, he set fire to a sheaf of wheat, and applied the flame to one of the horses. The horse, not relishing119 the application, by a well directed kick deposited the blazing sheaf in the load of wheat. This becoming ignited, was entirely120 consumed, together with the wagon. One of the horses, also, narrowly escaped perishing in the conflagration121.
Many of the cases of “balkiness” are nothing but want of power to perform the task assigned; a necessary pause from temporary exhaustion122. A driver who understands his business 29will give his team a breathing spell occasionally while pulling a heavy load. Another thing, if you find your team becoming exhausted123 and about to give out, it is well to stop them of your own accord; and it is well, too, to give them a few moments rest before encountering a peculiarly difficult part of the route.
If you have balky horses, it is your own fault, and not the horse’s, for if they do not pull true there is some cause for it, and if you will remove the cause the effect will cease. When your horse balks124 he is excited and does not know what you want him to do. For instance, a young horse that has never been “set” in a gully with a load before, is whipped by his owner or driver because he does not draw the load out. The animal is willing to do what he can, but he does not know how to draw out the load. He tries and finds that it does not move, not knowing that a steadier and stronger pull would do it, and when the lash125 comes down upon him and he hears the yells of his driver he is frightened, and jumps and rears through fear rather than ugliness or balkiness. No better way could possibly be devised to make a horse balky than to beat him under such circumstances. When he gets a little excited, stop him five or ten minutes, let him become calm; go to the balky horse, pat him and speak gently to him, and as soon as he is over his excitement, he will, in nine cases out of ten, pull at the word. After you have gentled him a while, and his excitement has cooled down, take him by the bits; turn him each way a few minutes as far as you can; gentle him a little; unrein him; then step before the balky horse, and let the other start first, then you can take them anywhere you wish. A balky horse is always high spirited and starts quick; half the pull is out before the other starts; by standing before him the other starts first. By close application to this rule, you can make any balky horse pull. If a horse has been badly spoiled you should hitch100 him to the empty wagon, and pull it around a while on level ground; then put on a little load and increase it gradually, caressing126 as before, and in a short, time you can have a good work horse.
You might as well attempt to make a horse move a three story building and draw it off, as to get out of a slough127 with a heavy load, when the animal has never been taught by degrees to draw a load out of such places. It is true that it is bad policy to unhitch a horse from a load under such circumstances, but it is far worse to beat him an hour and then have to do it. Our way of teaching colts is as follows: We put on light loads, after they are well broken to a harness, and go into bad places where it requires hard pulling by degrees; and the animal learns how to draw the load out. He reasons as a man does, thus: 30“I have been here before and got out, and I can do it again,” and out he goes. We add to the load one or two hundred pounds, and go through the same process, then wait a day or two and try him again, taking care that we require nothing to be done extra except with a lighter load. This is teaching a horse to have confidence in himself, which is the basis of all good draught128 horses.
A Scotch129 paper describes a curious case of horse management, and though the same treatment has been equally successful in other instances we are inclined to believe the true secret lies partly in gentling the animal while the preparations are being made. The fact related is curious and may be useful, so we reproduce it:
“On Saturday last a groom130, mounted on a high mettled hunter, entered the High street of Coldstream, and, when opposite Sir John Majoribank’s monument, the horse began to plunge131 and rear to a fearful extent, swerving132 to the right and then to the left, but go forward he would not, nor could all the exertions133 of the groom overcome his obstinacy134. The street was filled with people expecting to see the animal destroy himself on the spikes135 of the iron railing around the monument, when Mr. McDougal, saddler, walked up to the groom, and said: ‘I think, my man, you are not taking the proper method to make the horse go; allow me to show you a trick worth knowing.’ ‘Well,’ says the groom, ‘if you can make him go, it’s more than I can;’ when Mr. McDougal took a piece of whipcord, which he tied with a firm knot on the end of the animal’s ear, which he bent136 gently down, fastening the end of the string to the check buckle137 of the bridle, which done, he patted the horse’s neck once or twice, and said, ‘Now, let me see you go quietly home like a good horse,’ and, astonishing to relate, it moved off as gently as if nothing had happened. Mr. McDougal says he has seen, in London, horses which no manner of force could make go, while this mild treatment was always successful.”
HOW TO PREVENT HARNESSED HORSES FROM RUNNING AWAY.
For the following useful suggestion we are indebted to Mr. Robert McClure:
“It has often occurred to our mind, on account of the many and destructive runaways139 of horses harnessed to sleighs, that have taken place in this city and its neighborhood the present winter, that some mode of training might be adopted for family or carriage horses, which would entirely prevent or at least mitigate140 the violence and excitement of horses that may take fright. A good plan, based upon our knowledge and observation 31of the excitability and nervous temperament141 of horses disposed to take fright, would be to harness them with strong harness to an old but stout142 carriage a few times before the sleighing season, and have them taken slowly out of the city to a country road, not too hard for the horses’ feet, and drive them at a full run or gallop143 for a few rods at a time. Repeating this several times during the drive will so accustom90 the horses to the excitement of a run in harness and the rattle144 of a carriage behind them, that it will become familiar, and when occasions arise, as they sometime will in all large cities, to start them to run, they can be at once brought up and kept under complete control. The training to an occasional run has familiarized such horses with the excitement; but conversely, once let a team not used to it in harness, get a start and run, the excitement every moment becomes greater, takes the place of animal instinct, and all control of them is lost—till brought up against some obstacle, with a general smash of all surroundings, and perhaps the loss of valuable and useful life. Whether the horse be hurt or not, they are forever of no value for family purposes, and the groom or coachman not unfrequently loses both situation and character as a driver. To familiarize your horse to an occasional run in harness will do them no harm; and our word for it, much good will be done, and safety insured.”
When a Canadian family party, traveling in winter over ice covered rivers and swamps, is so unlucky as to cross a place where the horse sinks, they save him from drowning, and themselves from the danger of sharing the same fate, by pulling a rope so arranged that it chokes him. The water being thus prevented from entering his gullet or windpipe, he floats on the surface, and it only requires a long and firm pull to bring him to solid ground, when the rope being relaxed he quickly recovers his wind and is ready once more to start on his journey.
Perhaps profiting by this example, a similar means has been adopted with success for stopping runaway and subduing infuriated horses whether in riding or driving. It consists of a rein92 composed partly of thread-covered cat-gut, and partly of common leather, one end of which is attached to the bridle at the top of the horse’s head, while the other rests at the pummel of the saddle, or on the coach box, as the case may be. Running upon the cat-gut part by means of loops, is a short cross piece of cat-gut which rests against the windpipe of the animal, ready to be pulled up against it by taking hold of the nearer end of the rein. A quick and firm pull, to stop the breathing of the 32animal, is all that is necessary to bring him to an instantaneous pause. He may be in a state of panic, running off with the bit between his teeth in spite of every ordinary means of checking him: but no sooner does he feel the stricture on his breathing than he is conscious of being outwitted and nonplussed145 and becomes instantly as quiet as a lamb; at the same time he keeps quite firm upon his legs—the check not being by any means calculated to bring him down. On the contrary, from the position in which it places the horse, his shoulders being brought up, and being pressed back upon his haunches, the check is, indeed, calculated to keep him up.
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1
brute
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| n.野兽，兽性 | |
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refractory
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| adj.倔强的，难驾驭的 | |
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ass
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| n.驴；傻瓜，蠢笨的人 | |
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brutal
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| adj.残忍的，野蛮的，不讲理的 | |
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apprentices
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| 学徒，徒弟( apprentice的名词复数 ) | |
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6
fore
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| adv.在前面；adj.先前的；在前部的；n.前部 | |
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urchin
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| n.顽童；海胆 | |
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8
perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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subdue
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| vt.制服，使顺从，征服；抑制，克制 | |
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10
innate
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| adj.天生的，固有的，天赋的 | |
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11
nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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hereditary
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| adj.遗传的，遗传性的，可继承的，世袭的 | |
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disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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dispositions
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| 安排( disposition的名词复数 )； 倾向； （财产、金钱的）处置； 气质 | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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16
derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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17
tickling
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| 反馈，回授，自旋挠痒法 | |
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18
boisterous
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| adj.喧闹的，欢闹的 | |
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19
futile
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| adj.无效的，无用的，无希望的 | |
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20
frantic
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| adj.狂乱的，错乱的，激昂的 | |
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21
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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22
jeopardy
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| n.危险；危难 | |
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23
tampered
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| v.窜改( tamper的过去式 )；篡改；（用不正当手段）影响；瞎摆弄 | |
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24
radical
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| n.激进份子，原子团，根号；adj.根本的，激进的，彻底的 | |
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conversion
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| n.转化，转换，转变 | |
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26
lasting
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| adj.永久的，永恒的；vbl.持续，维持 | |
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27
timorous
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| adj.胆怯的，胆小的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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29
docility
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| n.容易教，易驾驶，驯服 | |
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30
implicit
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| a.暗示的，含蓄的，不明晰的，绝对的 | |
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31
uncommon
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| adj.罕见的，非凡的，不平常的 | |
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32
steadfast
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| adj.固定的，不变的，不动摇的；忠实的；坚贞不移的 | |
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33
nostrils
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| 鼻孔( nostril的名词复数 ) | |
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34
flinches
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| v.（因危险和痛苦）退缩，畏惧( flinch的第三人称单数 ) | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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36
lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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37
augment
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| vt.(使)增大，增加，增长，扩张 | |
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38
flinching
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| v.（因危险和痛苦）退缩，畏惧( flinch的现在分词 ) | |
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39
dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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40
skittish
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| adj.易激动的，轻佻的 | |
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41
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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42
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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43
hind
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| adj.后面的，后部的 | |
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44
magnetism
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| n.磁性，吸引力，磁学 | |
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45
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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46
attachment
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| n.附属物，附件；依恋；依附 | |
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47
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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48
predilection
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| n.偏好 | |
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49
judiciously
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| adv.明断地，明智而审慎地 | |
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50
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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51
contradictory
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| adj.反驳的，反对的，抗辩的；n.正反对，矛盾对立 | |
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52
gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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53
woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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54
bridle
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| n.笼头，束缚；vt.抑制，约束；动怒 | |
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55
persuasion
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| n.劝说；说服；持有某种信仰的宗派 | |
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56
prick
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| v.刺伤，刺痛，刺孔；n.刺伤，刺痛 | |
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57
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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58
amble
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| vi.缓行，漫步 | |
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59
crave
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| vt.渴望得到，迫切需要，恳求，请求 | |
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60
momentary
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| adj.片刻的，瞬息的；短暂的 | |
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61
offense
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| n.犯规，违法行为；冒犯，得罪 | |
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62
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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63
obedience
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| n.服从，顺从 | |
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64
enacting
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| 制定（法律），通过（法案）( enact的现在分词 ) | |
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anecdotes
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| n.掌故，趣闻，轶事( anecdote的名词复数 ) | |
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66
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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67
catastrophe
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| n.大灾难，大祸 | |
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68
plies
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| v.使用（工具）( ply的第三人称单数 )；经常供应（食物、饮料）；固定往来；经营生意 | |
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69
vice
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| n.坏事；恶习；[pl.]台钳，老虎钳；adj.副的 | |
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ply
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| v.(搬运工等)等候顾客，弯曲 | |
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71
resentment
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| n.怨愤，忿恨 | |
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72
hatred
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| n.憎恶，憎恨，仇恨 | |
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73
caress
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| vt./n.爱抚，抚摸 | |
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afterward
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| adv.后来；以后 | |
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75
judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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76
subduing
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| 征服( subdue的现在分词 )； 克制； 制服； 色变暗 | |
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improperly
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| 不正确地，不适当地 | |
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engraving
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| n.版画；雕刻（作品）；雕刻艺术；镌版术v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的现在分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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79
jaw
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| n.颚，颌，说教，流言蜚语；v.喋喋不休，教训 | |
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80
friction
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| n.摩擦，摩擦力 | |
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81
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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82
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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83
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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84
caresses
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| 爱抚，抚摸( caress的名词复数 ) | |
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85
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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86
promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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87
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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88
hips
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| abbr.high impact polystyrene 高冲击强度聚苯乙烯，耐冲性聚苯乙烯n.臀部( hip的名词复数 )；[建筑学]屋脊；臀围（尺寸）；臀部…的 | |
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caressed
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| 爱抚或抚摸…( caress的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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90
accustom
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| vt.使适应，使习惯 | |
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91
reins
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| 感情，激情； 缰( rein的名词复数 )； 控制手段； 掌管； （成人带着幼儿走路以防其走失时用的）保护带 | |
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92
rein
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| n.疆绳，统治，支配；vt.以僵绳控制，统治 | |
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93
requisite
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| adj.需要的，必不可少的；n.必需品 | |
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94
concise
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| adj.简洁的，简明的 | |
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95
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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96
illustrates
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| 给…加插图( illustrate的第三人称单数 )； 说明； 表明； （用示例、图画等）说明 | |
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97
feat
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| n.功绩；武艺，技艺；adj.灵巧的，漂亮的，合适的 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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99
strap
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| n.皮带，带子；v.用带扣住，束牢；用绷带包扎 | |
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100
hitch
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| v.免费搭(车旅行)；系住；急提；n.故障；急拉 | |
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101
hitched
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| （免费）搭乘他人之车( hitch的过去式和过去分词 )； 搭便车； 攀上； 跃上 | |
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102
ponderous
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| adj.沉重的，笨重的，(文章)冗长的 | |
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103
onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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104
deftly
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| adv.灵巧地，熟练地，敏捷地 | |
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105
entanglement
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| n.纠缠，牵累 | |
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106
balk
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| n.大方木料；v.妨碍；不愿前进或从事某事 | |
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107
humane
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| adj.人道的，富有同情心的 | |
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108
deplores
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| v.悲叹，痛惜，强烈反对( deplore的第三人称单数 ) | |
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109
whacking
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| adj.（用于强调）巨大的v.重击，使劲打( whack的现在分词 ) | |
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110
nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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111
valor
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| n.勇气，英勇 | |
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112
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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113
perverse
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| adj.刚愎的；坚持错误的，行为反常的 | |
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114
budge
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| v.移动一点儿；改变立场 | |
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115
persistently
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| ad.坚持地；固执地 | |
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116
pricking
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| 刺，刺痕，刺痛感 | |
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117
expedient
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| adj.有用的，有利的；n.紧急的办法，权宜之计 | |
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118
wagon
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| n.四轮马车，手推车，面包车；无盖运货列车 | |
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119
relishing
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| v.欣赏( relish的现在分词 )；从…获得乐趣；渴望 | |
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120
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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121
conflagration
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| n.建筑物或森林大火 | |
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122
exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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123
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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124
balks
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| v.畏缩不前，犹豫( balk的第三人称单数 )；（指马）不肯跑 | |
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125
lash
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| v.系牢；鞭打；猛烈抨击；n.鞭打；眼睫毛 | |
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126
caressing
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| 爱抚的，表现爱情的，亲切的 | |
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127
slough
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| v.蜕皮，脱落，抛弃 | |
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128
draught
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| n.拉，牵引，拖；一网（饮，吸，阵)；顿服药量，通风；v.起草，设计 | |
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129
scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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130
groom
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| vt.给（马、狗等）梳毛，照料，使...整洁 | |
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131
plunge
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| v.跳入，(使)投入，(使)陷入；猛冲 | |
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132
swerving
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| v.（使）改变方向，改变目的( swerve的现在分词 ) | |
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133
exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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134
obstinacy
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| n.顽固；（病痛等）难治 | |
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135
spikes
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| n.穗( spike的名词复数 )；跑鞋；（防滑）鞋钉；尖状物v.加烈酒于( spike的第三人称单数 )；偷偷地给某人的饮料加入（更多）酒精（ 或药物）；把尖状物钉入；打乱某人的计划 | |
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136
bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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137
buckle
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| n.扣子，带扣；v.把...扣住，由于压力而弯曲 | |
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138
runaway
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| n.逃走的人，逃亡，亡命者；adj.逃亡的，逃走的 | |
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139
runaways
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| （轻而易举的）胜利( runaway的名词复数 ) | |
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140
mitigate
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| vt.（使）减轻，（使）缓和 | |
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141
temperament
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| n.气质，性格，性情 | |
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143
gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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144
rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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145
nonplussed
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| adj.不知所措的，陷于窘境的v.使迷惑( nonplus的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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