My plan was simply to push on in a general southward direction by the wildest, leafiest, and least trodden way I could find, promising6 the greatest extent of virgin7 forest. Folding my map, I shouldered my little bag and plant press and strode away among the old Kentucky oaks, rejoicing in splendid visions of pines and palms and tropic flowers in glorious array, not, however, without a few cold shadows of loneliness, although the great oaks seemed to spread their arms in welcome.
I have seen oaks of many species in many kinds of exposure and soil, but those of Kentucky excel in grandeur8 all I had ever before beheld9. They are broad and dense10 and bright green. In the leafy bowers11 and caves of their long branches dwell magnificent avenues of shade, and every tree seems to be blessed with a double portion of strong exulting12 life. Walked twenty miles, mostly on river bottom, and found shelter in a rickety tavern13.
September 3. Escaped from the dust and squalor of my garret bedroom to the glorious forest. All the streams that I tasted hereabouts are salty and so are the wells. Salt River was nearly dry. Much of my way this forenoon was over naked limestone14. After passing the level ground that extended twenty-five or thirty miles from the river I came to a region of rolling hills called Kentucky Knobs—hills of denudation15 covered with trees to the top. Some of them have a few pines. For a few hours I followed the farmers’ paths, but soon wandered away from roads and encountered many a tribe of twisted vines difficult to pass.
Emerging about noon from a grove16 of giant sunflowers, I found myself on the brink17 of a tumbling rocky stream [Rolling Fork]. I did not expect to find bridges on my wild ways, and at once started to ford19, when a negro woman on the opposite bank earnestly called on me to wait until she could tell the “men folks” to bring me a horse—that the river was too deep and rapid to wade20 and that I would “sartain be drowned” if I attempted to cross. I replied that my bag and plants would ballast me; that the water did not appear to be deep, and that if I were carried away, I was a good swimmer and would soon dry in the sunshine. But the cautious old soul replied that no one ever waded21 that river and set off for a horse, saying that it was no trouble at all.
In a few minutes the ferry horse came gingerly down the bank through vines and weeds. His long stilt22 legs proved him a natural wader. He was white and the little sable23 negro boy that rode him looked like a bug24 on his back. After many a tottering25 halt the outward voyage was safely made, and I mounted behind little Nig. He was a queer specimen26, puffy and jet as an India rubber doll and his hair was matted in sections like the wool of a merino sheep. The old horse, overladen with his black and white burden, rocked and stumbled on his stilt legs with fair promises of a fall. But all ducking signs failed and we arrived in safety among the weeds and vines of the rugged27 bank. A salt bath would have done us no harm. I could swim and little Afric looked as if he might float like a bladder.
I called at the homestead where my ferryman informed me I would find “tollable” water. But, like all the water of this section that I have tasted, it was intolerable with salt. Everything about this old Kentucky home bespoke28 plenty, unpolished and unmeasured. The house was built in true Southern style, airy, large, and with a transverse central hall that looks like a railway tunnel, and heavy rough outside chimneys. The negro quarters and other buildings are enough in number for a village, altogether an interesting representative of a genuine old Kentucky home, embosomed in orchards31, corn fields and green wooded hills.
Passed gangs of woodmen engaged and hewing32 the grand oaks for market. Fruit very abundant. Magnificent flowing hill scenery all afternoon. Walked southeast from Elizabethtown till wearied and lay down in the bushes by guess.
September 4. The sun was gilding33 the hill-tops when I was awakened34 by the alarm notes of birds whose dwelling35 in a hazel thicket36 I had disturbed. They flitted excitedly close to my head, as if scolding or asking angry questions, while several beautiful plants, strangers to me, were looking me full in the face. The first botanical discovery in bed! This was one of the most delightful37 camp grounds, though groped for in the dark, and I lingered about it enjoying its trees and soft lights and music.
Walked ten miles of forest. Met a strange oak with willow-looking leaves. Entered a sandy stretch of black oak called “Barrens,” many of which were sixty or seventy feet in height, and are said to have grown since the fires were kept off, forty years ago. The farmers hereabouts are tall, stout38, happy fellows, fond of guns and horses. Enjoyed friendly chats with them. Arrived at dark in a village that seemed to be drawing its last breath. Was guided to the “tavern” by a negro who was extremely accommodating. “No trouble at all,” he said.
September 5. No bird or flower or friendly tree above me this morning; only squalid garret rubbish and dust. Escaped to the woods. Came to the region of caves. At the mouth of the first I discovered, I was surprised to find ferns which belonged to the coolest nooks of Wisconsin and northward39, but soon observed that each cave rim40 has a zone of climate peculiar41 to itself, and it is always cool. This cave had an opening about ten feet in diameter, and twenty-five feet perpendicular42 depth. A strong cold wind issued from it and I could hear the sounds of running water. A long pole was set against its walls as if intended for a ladder, but in some places it was slippery and smooth as a mast and would test the climbing powers of a monkey. The walls and rim of this natural reservoir were finely carved and flowered. Bushes leaned over it with shading leaves, and beautiful ferns and mosses43 were in rows and sheets on its slopes and shelves. Lingered here a long happy while, pressing specimens44 and printing this beauty into memory.
Arrived about noon at Munfordville; was soon discovered and examined by Mr. Munford himself, a pioneer and father of the village. He is a surveyor—has held all country offices, and every seeker of roads and lands applies to him for information. He regards all the villagers as his children, and all strangers who enter Munfordville as his own visitors. Of course he inquired my business, destination, et cetera, and invited me to his house.
After refreshing45 me with “parrs” he complacently46 covered the table with bits of rocks, plants, et cetera, things new and old which he had gathered in his surveying walks and supposed to be full of scientific interest. He informed me that all scientific men applied47 to him for information, and as I was a botanist48, he either possessed49, or ought to possess, the knowledge I was seeking, and so I received long lessons concerning roots and herbs for every mortal ill. Thanking my benefactor50 for his kindness, I escaped to the fields and followed a railroad along the base of a grand hill ridge18. As evening came on all the dwellings51 I found seemed to repel52 me, and I could not muster53 courage enough to ask entertainment at any of them. Took refuge in a log schoolhouse that stood on a hillside beneath stately oaks and slept on the softest looking of the benches.
September 6. Started at the earliest bird song in hopes of seeing the great Mammoth54 Cave before evening. Overtook an old negro driving an ox team. Rode with him a few miles and had some interesting chat concerning war, wild fruits of the woods, et cetera. “Right heah,” said he, “is where the Rebs was a-tearin’ up the track, and they all a sudden thought they seed the Yankees a-comin’, obah dem big hills dar, and Lo’d, how dey run.” I asked him if he would like a renewal55 of these sad war times, when his flexible face suddenly calmed, and he said with intense earnestness, “Oh, Lo’d, want no mo wa, Lo’d no.” Many of these Kentucky negroes are shrewd and intelligent, and when warmed upon a subject that interests them, are eloquent56 in no mean degree.
Arrived at Horse Cave, about ten miles from the great cave. The entrance is by a long easy slope of several hundred yards. It seems like a noble gateway57 to the birthplace of springs and fountains and the dark treasuries58 of the mineral kingdom. This cave is in a village [of the same name] which it supplies with an abundance of cold water, and cold air that issues from its fern-clad lips. In hot weather crowds of people sit about it in the shade of the trees that guard it. This magnificent fan is capable of cooling everybody in the town at once.
Those who live near lofty mountains may climb to cool weather in a day or two, but the overheated Kentuckians can find a patch of cool climate in almost every glen in the State. The villager who accompanied me said that Horse Cave had never been fully59 explored, but that it was several miles in length at least. He told me that he had never been at Mammoth Cave—that it was not worth going ten miles to see, as it was nothing but a hole in the ground, and I found that his was no rare case. He was one of the useful, practical men—too wise to waste precious time with weeds, caves, fossils, or anything else that he could not eat.
Arrived at the great Mammoth Cave. I was surprised to find it in so complete naturalness. A large hotel with fine walks and gardens is near it. But fortunately the cave has been unimproved, and were it not for the narrow trail that leads down the glen to its door, one would not know that it had been visited. There are house-rooms and halls whose entrances give but slight hint of their grandeur. And so also this magnificent hall in the mineral kingdom of Kentucky has a door comparatively small and unpromising. One might pass within a few yards of it without noticing it. A strong cool breeze issues constantly from it, creating a northern climate for the ferns that adorn60 its rocky front.
I never before saw Nature’s grandeur in so abrupt61 contrast with paltry62 artificial gardens. The fashionable hotel grounds are in exact parlor63 taste, with many a beautiful plant cultivated to deformity, and arranged in strict geometrical beds, the whole pretty affair a laborious64 failure side by side with Divine beauty. The trees around the mouth of the cave are smooth and tall and bent65 forward at the bottom, then straight upwards66. Only a butternut seems, by its angular knotty67 branches, to sympathize with and belong to the cave, with a fine growth of Cystopteris and Hypnum.
Started for Glasgow Junction68. Got belated in the hill woods. Inquired my way at a farm-house and was invited to stay overnight in a rare, hearty69, hospitable70 manner. Engaged in familiar running talk on politics, war times, and theology. The old Kentuckian seemed to take a liking71 to me and advised me to stay in these hills until next spring, assuring me that I would find much to interest me in and about the Great Cave; also, that he was one of the school officials and was sure that I could obtain their school for the winter term. I sincerely thanked him for his kind plans, but pursued my own.
September 7. Left the hospitable Kentuckians with their sincere good wishes and bore away southward again through the deep green woods. In noble forests all day. Saw mistletoe for the first time. Part of the day I traveled with a Kentuckian from near Burkesville. He spoke29 to all the negroes he met with familiar kindly72 greetings, addressing them always as “Uncles” and “Aunts.” All travelers one meets on these roads, white and black, male and female, travel on horseback. Glasgow is one of the few Southern towns that shows ordinary American life. At night with a well-to-do farmer.
September 8. Deep, green, bossy73 sea of waving, flowing hilltops. Corn and cotton and tobacco fields scattered74 here and there. I had imagined that a cotton field in flower was something magnificent. But cotton is a coarse, rough, straggling, unhappy looking plant, not half as good-looking as a field of Irish potatoes. Met a great many negroes going to meeting, dressed in their Sunday best. Fat, happy looking, and contented75. The scenery on approaching the Cumberland River becomes still grander. Burkesville, in beautiful location, is embosomed in a glorious array of verdant76 flowing hills. The Cumberland must be a happy stream. I think I could enjoy traveling with it in the midst of such beauty all my life. This evening I could find none willing to take me in, and so lay down on a hillside and fell asleep muttering praises to the happy abounding77 beauty of Kentucky.
September 9. Another day in the most favored province of bird and flower. Many rapid streams, flowing in beautiful flower-bordered ca?ons embosomed in dense woods. Am seated on a grand hill-slope that leans back against the sky like a picture. Amid the wide waves of green wood there are spots of autumnal yellow and the atmosphere, too, has the dawnings of autumn in colors and sounds. The soft light of morning falls upon ripening78 forests of oak and elm, walnut79 and hickory and all Nature is thoughtful and calm. Kentucky is the greenest, leafiest State I have yet seen. The sea of soft temperate80 plant-green is deepest here. Comparing volumes of vegetable verdure in different countries to a wedge, the thick end would be in the forests of Kentucky, the other in the lichens81 and mosses of the North. This verdure wedge would not be perfect in its lines. From Kentucky it would maintain its thickness long and well in passing the level forests of Indiana and Canada. From the maples82 and pines of Canada it would slope rapidly to the bleak83 Arctic hills with dwarf84 birches and alders85; thence it would thin out in a long edge among hardy86 lichens and liverworts and mosses to the dwelling-places of everlasting87 frost. Far the grandest of all Kentucky plants are her noble oaks. They are the master existences of her exuberant88 forests. Here is the Eden, the paradise of oaks. Passed the Kentucky line towards evening and obtained food and shelter from a thrifty89 Tennessee farmer, after he had made use of all the ordinary anti-hospitable arguments of cautious comfortable families.
September 10. Escaped from a heap of uncordial kindness to the generous bosom30 of the woods. After a few miles of level ground in luxuriant tangles90 of brooding vines, I began the ascent91 of the Cumberland Mountains, the first real mountains that my foot ever touched or eyes beheld. The ascent was by a nearly regular zigzag92 slope, mostly covered up like a tunnel by overarching oaks. But there were a few openings where the glorious forest road of Kentucky was grandly seen, stretching over hill and valley, adjusted to every slope and curve by the hands of Nature the most sublime93 and comprehensive picture that ever entered my eyes. Reached the summit in six or seven hours—a strangely long period of up-grade work to one accustomed only to the hillocky levels of Wisconsin and adjacent States.
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1
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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joyful
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| adj.欢乐的，令人欢欣的 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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steered
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| v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 )；操纵；控制；引导 | |
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suburban
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| adj.城郊的，在郊区的 | |
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promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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bowers
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| n.（女子的）卧室( bower的名词复数 )；船首锚；阴凉处；鞠躬的人 | |
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exulting
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| vi. 欢欣鼓舞，狂喜 | |
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tavern
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| n.小旅馆，客栈；小酒店 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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denudation
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| n.剥下；裸露；滥伐；剥蚀 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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brink
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| n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘，边沿 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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Ford
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| n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过 | |
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wade
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| v.跋涉，涉水；n.跋涉 | |
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waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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stilt
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| n.高跷，支柱 | |
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sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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bug
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| n.虫子；故障；窃听器；vt.纠缠；装窃听器 | |
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tottering
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| adj.蹒跚的，动摇的v.走得或动得不稳( totter的现在分词 )；踉跄；蹒跚；摇摇欲坠 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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bespoke
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| adj.（产品）订做的；专做订货的v.预定( bespeak的过去式 )；订（货）；证明；预先请求 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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orchards
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| （通常指围起来的）果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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hewing
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| v.（用斧、刀等）砍、劈( hew的现在分词 )；砍成；劈出；开辟 | |
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gilding
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| n.贴金箔，镀金 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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thicket
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| n.灌木丛，树林 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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complacently
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| adv. 满足地, 自满地, 沾沾自喜地 | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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botanist
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| n.植物学家 | |
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possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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benefactor
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| n. 恩人，行善的人，捐助人 | |
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dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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repel
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| v.击退，抵制，拒绝，排斥 | |
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muster
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| v.集合，收集，鼓起，激起；n.集合，检阅，集合人员，点名册 | |
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mammoth
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| n.长毛象；adj.长毛象似的，巨大的 | |
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renewal
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| adj.(契约)延期，续订，更新，复活，重来 | |
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eloquent
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| adj.雄辩的，口才流利的；明白显示出的 | |
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gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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treasuries
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| n.（政府的）财政部( treasury的名词复数 )；国库，金库 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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adorn
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| vt.使美化，装饰 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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paltry
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| adj.无价值的，微不足道的 | |
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parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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knotty
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| adj.有结的，多节的，多瘤的，棘手的 | |
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junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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liking
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| n.爱好；嗜好；喜欢 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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bossy
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| adj.爱发号施令的，作威作福的 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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76
verdant
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| adj.翠绿的，青翠的，生疏的，不老练的 | |
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abounding
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| adj.丰富的，大量的v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
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ripening
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| v.成熟，使熟( ripen的现在分词 )；熟化；熟成 | |
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79
walnut
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| n.胡桃，胡桃木，胡桃色，茶色 | |
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80
temperate
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| adj.温和的，温带的，自我克制的，不过分的 | |
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81
lichens
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| n.地衣( lichen的名词复数 ) | |
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82
maples
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| 槭树，枫树( maple的名词复数 )； 槭木 | |
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83
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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85
alders
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| n.桤木( alder的名词复数 ) | |
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86
hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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everlasting
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| adj.永恒的，持久的，无止境的 | |
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88
exuberant
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| adj.充满活力的；（植物）繁茂的 | |
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thrifty
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| adj.节俭的；兴旺的；健壮的 | |
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90
tangles
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| （使）缠结， （使）乱作一团( tangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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91
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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zigzag
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| n.曲折，之字形；adj.曲折的，锯齿形的；adv.曲折地，成锯齿形地；vt.使曲折；vi.曲折前行 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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