Passed the comfortable, finely shaded little town of Gainesville. The Chattahoochee River is richly embanked with massive, bossy4, dark green water oaks, and wreathed with a dense5 growth of muscadine grapevines, whose ornate foliage6, so well adapted to bank embroidery7 was enriched with other interweaving species of vines and brightly colored flowers. This is the first truly southern stream I have met.
At night I reached the home of a young man with whom I had worked in Indiana, Mr. Prater8. He was down here on a visit to his father and mother. This was a plain backwoods family, living out of sight among knobby timbered hillocks not far from the river. The evening was passed in mixed conversation on southern and northern generalities.
September 24. Spent this day with Mr. Prater sailing on the Chattahoochee, feasting on grapes that had dropped from the overhanging vines. This remarkable9 species of wild grape has a stout10 stem, sometimes five or six inches in diameter, smooth bark and hard wood, quite unlike any other wild or cultivated grapevine that I have seen. The grapes are very large, some of them nearly an inch in diameter, globular and fine flavored. Usually there are but three or four berries in a cluster, and when mature they drop off instead of decaying on the vine. Those which fall into the river are often found in large quantities in the eddies11 along the bank, where they are collected by men in boats and sometimes made into wine. I think another name for this grape is the Scuppernong[6], though called “muscadine” here.
[6] The old Indian name for the southern species of fox-grape, Vitis rotundifolia, which Muir describes here. Wood’s Botany listed it as Vitis vulpina L. and remarks, “The variety called ‘Scuppernong’ is quite common in southern gardens.”
Besides sailing on the river, we had a long walk among the plant bowers12 and tangles13 of the Chattahoochee bottom lands.
September 25. Bade good-bye to this friendly family. Mr. Prater accompanied me a short distance from the house and warned me over and over again to be on the outlook for rattlesnakes. They are now leaving the damp low-lands, he told me, so that the danger is much greater because they are on their travels. Thus warned, I set out for Savannah, but got lost in the vine-fenced hills and hollows of the river bottom. Was unable to find the ford14 to which I had been directed by Mr. Prater.
I then determined15 to push on southward regardless of roads and fords. After repeated failures I succeeded in finding a place on the river bank where I could force my way into the stream through the vine-tangles. I succeeded in crossing the river by wading16 and swimming, careless of wetting, knowing that I would soon dry in the hot sunshine.
Out near the middle of the river I found great difficulty in resisting the rapid current. Though I braced17 myself with a stout stick, I was at length carried away in spite of all my efforts. But I succeeded in swimming to the shallows on the farther side, luckily caught hold of a rock, and after a rest swam and waded18 ashore19. Dragging myself up the steep bank by the overhanging vines, I spread out myself, my paper money, and my plants to dry.
Debated with myself whether to proceed down the river valley until I could buy a boat, or lumber20 to make one, for a sail instead of a march through Georgia. I was intoxicated21 with the beauty of these glorious river banks, which I fancied might increase in grandeur22 as I approached the sea. But I finally concluded that such a pleasure sail would be less profitable than a walk, and so sauntered on southward as soon as I was dry. Rattlesnakes abundant. Lodged23 at a farmhouse24. Found a few tropical plants in the garden.
Cotton is the principal crop hereabouts, and picking is now going on merrily. Only the lower bolls are now ripe. Those higher on the plants are green and unopened. Higher still, there are buds and flowers, some of which, if the plants be thrifty25 and the season favorable, will continue to produce ripe bolls until January.
The negroes are easy-going and merry, making a great deal of noise and doing little work. One energetic white man, working with a will, would easily pick as much cotton as half a dozen Sambos and Sallies. The forest here is almost entirely26 made up of dim-green, knotty27, sparsely28 planted pines. The soil is mostly white, fine-grained sand.
September 26. Reached Athens in the afternoon, a remarkably29 beautiful and aristocratic town, containing many classic and magnificent mansions30 of wealthy planters, who formerly31 owned large negro-stocked plantations32 in the best cotton and sugar regions farther south. Unmistakable marks of culture and refinement33, as well as wealth, were everywhere apparent. This is the most beautiful town I have seen on the journey, so far, and the only one in the South that I would like to revisit.
The negroes here have been well trained and are extremely polite. When they come in sight of a white man on the road, off go their hats, even at a distance of forty or fifty yards, and they walk bare-headed until he is out of sight.
September 27. Long zigzag34 walk amid the old plantations, a few of which are still cultivated in the old way by the same negroes that worked them before the war, and who still occupy their former “quarters.” They are now paid seven to ten dollars a month.
The weather is very hot on these sandy, lightly shaded, lowland levels. When very thirsty I discovered a beautiful spring in a sandstone basin overhung with shady bushes and vines, where I enjoyed to the utmost the blessing35 of pure cold water. Discovered here a fine southern fern, some new grasses, etc. Fancied that I might have been directed here by Providence36, while fainting with thirst. It is not often hereabouts that the joys of cool water, cool shade, and rare plants are so delightfully38 combined.
Witnessed the most gorgeous sunset I ever enjoyed in this bright world of light. The sunny South is indeed sunny. Was directed by a very civil negro to lodgings40 for the night. Daily bread hereabouts means sweet potatoes and rusty42 bacon.
September 28. The water oak is abundant on stream banks and in damp hollows. Grasses are becoming tall and cane-like and do not cover the ground with their leaves as at the North. Strange plants are crowding about me now. Scarce a familiar face appears among all the flowers of the day’s walk.
September 29. To-day I met a magnificent grass, ten or twelve feet in stature44, with a superb panicle of glossy45 purple flowers. Its leaves, too, are of princely mould and dimensions. Its home is in sunny meadows and along the wet borders of slow streams and swamps. It seems to be fully39 aware of its high rank, and waves with the grace and solemn majesty46 of a mountain pine. I wish I could place one of these regal plants among the grass settlements of our Western prairies. Surely every panicle would wave and bow in joyous47 allegiance and acknowledge their king.
September 30. Between Thomson and Augusta I found many new and beautiful grasses, tall gerardias, liatris, club mosses48, etc. Here, too, is the northern limit of the remarkable long-leafed pine, a tree from sixty to seventy feet in height, from twenty to thirty inches in diameter, with leaves ten to fifteen inches long, in dense radiant masses at the ends of the naked branches. The wood is strong, hard, and very resinous50. It makes excellent ship spars, bridge timbers, and flooring. Much of it is shipped to the West India Islands, New York, and Galveston.
The seedlings51, five or six years old, are very striking objects to one from the North, consisting, as they do, of the straight, leafless stem, surmounted52 by a crown of deep green leaves, arching and spreading like a palm. Children fancy that they resemble brooms, and use them as such in their picnic play-houses. Pinus palustris is most abundant in Georgia and Florida.
The sandy soil here is sparingly seamed with rolled quartz53 pebbles54 and clay. Denudation55, going on slowly, allows the thorough removal of these clay seams, leaving only the sand. Notwithstanding the sandiness of the soil, much of the surface of the country is covered with standing56 water, which is easily accounted for by the presence of the above-mentioned impermeable57 seams.
Traveled to-day more than forty miles without dinner or supper. No family would receive me, so I had to push on to Augusta. Went hungry to bed and awoke with a sore stomach—sore, I suppose, from its walls rubbing on each other without anything to grind. A negro kindly58 directed me to the best hotel, called, I think, the Planter’s. Got a good bed for a dollar.
October 1. Found a cheap breakfast in a market-place; then set off along the Savannah River to Savannah. Splendid grasses and rich, dense, vine-clad forests. Muscadine grapes in cart-loads. Asters and solidagoes becoming scarce. Carices [sedges] quite rare. Leguminous plants abundant. A species of passion flower is common, reaching back into Tennessee. It is here called “apricot vine,” has a superb flower, and the most delicious fruit I have ever eaten.
The pomegranate is cultivated here. The fruit is about the size of an orange, has a thick, tough skin, and when opened resembles a many-chambered box full of translucent59 purple candies.
Toward evening I came to the country of one of the most striking of southern plants, the so-called “Long Moss49” or Spanish Moss [Tillandsia], though it is a flowering plant and belongs to the same family as the pineapple [Bromelworts]. The trees hereabouts have all their branches draped with it, producing a remarkable effect.
Here, too, I found an impenetrable cypress60 swamp. This remarkable tree, called cypress, is a taxodium, grows large and high, and is remarkable for its flat crown. The whole forest seems almost level on the top, as if each tree had grown up against a ceiling, or had been rolled while growing. This taxodium is the only level-topped tree that I have seen. The branches, though spreading, are careful not to pass each other, and stop suddenly on reaching the general level, as if they had grown up against a ceiling.
The groves61 and thickets62 of smaller trees are full of blooming evergreen63 vines. These vines are not arranged in separate groups, or in delicate wreaths, but in bossy walls and heavy, mound-like heaps and banks. Am made to feel that I am now in a strange land. I know hardly any of the plants, but few of the birds, and I am unable to see the country for the solemn, dark, mysterious cypress woods which cover everything.
The winds are full of strange sounds, making one feel far from the people and plants and fruitful fields of home. Night is coming on and I am filled with indescribable loneliness. Felt feverish64; bathed in a black, silent stream; nervously65 watchful66 for alligators67. Obtained lodging41 in a planter’s house among cotton fields. Although the family seemed to be pretty well-off, the only light in the house was bits of pitch-pine wood burned in the fireplace.
October 2. In the low bottom forest of the Savannah River. Very busy with new specimens68. Most exquisitely69 planned wrecks70 of Agrostis scabra [Rough Hair Grass]. Pines in glorious array with open, welcoming, approachable plants.
Met a young African with whom I had a long talk. Was amused with his eloquent71 narrative72 of coon hunting, alligators, and many superstitions73. He showed me a place where a railroad train had run off the track, and assured me that the ghosts of the killed may be seen every dark night.
Had a long walk after sundown. At last was received at the house of Dr. Perkins. Saw Cape74 Jasmine [Gardenia florida] in the garden. Heard long recitals75 of war happenings, discussion of the slave question, and Northern politics; a thoroughly76 characteristic Southern family, refined in manners and kind, but immovably prejudiced on everything connected with slavery.
The family table was unlike any I ever saw before. It was circular, and the central part of it revolved77. When any one wished to be helped, he placed his plate on the revolving78 part, which was whirled around to the host, and then whirled back with its new load. Thus every plate was revolved into place, without the assistance of any of the family.
October 3. In “pine barrens” most of the day. Low, level, sandy tracts79; the pines wide apart; the sunny spaces between full of beautiful abounding80 grasses, liatris, long, wand-like solidago, saw palmettos, etc., covering the ground in garden style. Here I sauntered in delightful37 freedom, meeting none of the cat-clawed vines, or shrubs81, of the alluvial82 bottoms. Dwarf83 live-oaks common.
Toward evening I arrived at the home of Mr. Cameron, a wealthy planter, who had large bands of slaves at work in his cotton fields. They still call him “Massa.” He tells me that labor84 costs him less now than it did before the emancipation85 of the negroes. When I arrived I found him busily engaged in scouring86 the rust43 off some cotton-gin saws which had been lying for months at the bottom of his mill-pond to prevent Sherman’s “bummers” from destroying them. The most valuable parts of the grist-mill and cotton-press were hidden in the same way. “If Bill Sherman,” he said, “should come down now without his army, he would never go back.”
When I asked him if he could give me food and lodging for the night he said, “No, no, we have no accommodations for travelers.” I said, “But I am traveling as a botanist87 and either have to find lodgings when night overtakes me or lie outdoors, which I often have had to do in my long walk from Indiana. But you see that the country here is very swampy88; if you will at least sell me a piece of bread, and give me a drink at your well, I shall have to look around for a dry spot to lie down on.”
Then, asking me a few questions, and narrowly examining me, he said, “Well, it is barely possible that we may find a place for you, and if you will come to the house I will ask my wife.” Evidently he was cautious to get his wife’s opinion of the kind of creature I was before committing himself to hospitality. He halted me at the door and called out his wife, a fine-looking woman, who also questioned me narrowly as to my object in coming so far down through the South, so soon after the war. She said to her husband that she thought they could, perhaps, give me a place to sleep.
After supper, as we sat by the fire talking on my favorite subject of botany, I described the country I had passed through, its botanical character, etc. Then, evidently, all doubt as to my being a decent man vanished, and they both said that they wouldn’t for anything have turned me away; but I must excuse their caution, for perhaps fewer than one in a hundred, who passed through this unfrequented part of the country, were to be relied upon. “Only a short time ago we entertained a man who was well spoken and well dressed, and he vanished some time during the night with some valuable silverware.”
Mr. Cameron told me that when I arrived he tried me for a Mason, and finding that I was not a Mason he wondered still more that I would venture into the country without being able to gain the assistance of brother Masons in these troublous times.
“Young man,” he said, after hearing my talks on botany, “I see that your hobby is botany. My hobby is e-lec-tricity. I believe that the time is coming, though we may not live to see it, when that mysterious power or force, used now only for telegraphy, will eventually supply the power for running railroad trains and steamships89, for lighting90, and, in a word, electricity will do all the work of the world.”
Many times since then I have thought of the wonderfully correct vision of this Georgia planter, so far in advance of almost everybody else in the world. Already nearly all that he foresaw has been accomplished91, and the use of electricity is being extended more and more every year.
October 4. New plants constantly appearing. All day in dense, wet, dark, mysterious forest of flat-topped taxodiums.
October 5. Saw the stately banana for the first time, growing luxuriantly in the wayside gardens. At night with a very pleasant, intelligent Savannah family, but as usual was admitted only after I had undergone a severe course of questioning.
October 6. Immense swamps, still more completely fenced and darkened, that are never ruffled92 with winds or scorched93 with drought. Many of them seem to be thoroughly aquatic94.
October 7. Impenetrable taxodium swamp, seemingly boundless95. The silvery skeins of tillandsia becoming longer and more abundant. Passed the night with a very pleasant family of Georgians, after the usual questions and cross questions.
October 8. Found the first woody composit?, a most notable discovery. Took them to be such at a considerable distance. Almost all trees and shrubs are evergreens96 here with thick polished leaves. Magnolia grandiflora becoming common. A magnificent tree in fruit and foliage as well as in flower. Near Savannah I found waste places covered with a dense growth of woody leguminous plants, eight or ten feet high, with pinnate leaves and suspended rattling97 nods.
Reached Savannah, but find no word from home, and the money that I had ordered to be sent by express from Portage [Wisconsin] by my brother had not yet arrived. Feel dreadfully lonesome and poor. Went to the meanest looking lodging-house that I could find, on account of its cheapness.
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1
latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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bossy
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| adj.爱发号施令的，作威作福的 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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embroidery
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| n.绣花，刺绣；绣制品 | |
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prater
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| 多嘴的人，空谈者 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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eddies
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| （水、烟等的）漩涡，涡流( eddy的名词复数 ) | |
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bowers
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| n.（女子的）卧室( bower的名词复数 )；船首锚；阴凉处；鞠躬的人 | |
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tangles
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| （使）缠结， （使）乱作一团( tangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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Ford
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| n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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wading
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的现在分词 ) | |
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braced
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| adj.拉牢的v.支住( brace的过去式和过去分词 )；撑牢；使自己站稳；振作起来 | |
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waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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lumber
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| n.木材，木料；v.以破旧东西堆满；伐木；笨重移动 | |
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intoxicated
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| 喝醉的，极其兴奋的 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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farmhouse
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| n.农场住宅（尤指主要住房） | |
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thrifty
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| adj.节俭的；兴旺的；健壮的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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knotty
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| adj.有结的，多节的，多瘤的，棘手的 | |
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sparsely
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| adv.稀疏地；稀少地；不足地；贫乏地 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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mansions
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| n.宅第，公馆，大厦( mansion的名词复数 ) | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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refinement
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| n.文雅；高尚；精美；精制；精炼 | |
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zigzag
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| n.曲折，之字形；adj.曲折的，锯齿形的；adv.曲折地，成锯齿形地；vt.使曲折；vi.曲折前行 | |
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blessing
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| n.祈神赐福；祷告；祝福，祝愿 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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delightfully
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| 大喜，欣然 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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lodgings
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| n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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rusty
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| adj.生锈的；锈色的；荒废了的 | |
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rust
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| n.锈；v.生锈；(脑子)衰退 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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45
glossy
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| adj.平滑的；有光泽的 | |
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46
majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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joyous
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| adj.充满快乐的；令人高兴的 | |
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48
mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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resinous
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| adj.树脂的，树脂质的，树脂制的 | |
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51
seedlings
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| n.刚出芽的幼苗( seedling的名词复数 ) | |
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52
surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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53
quartz
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| n.石英 | |
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54
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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55
denudation
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| n.剥下；裸露；滥伐；剥蚀 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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impermeable
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| adj.不能透过的，不渗透的 | |
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58
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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translucent
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| adj.半透明的；透明的 | |
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60
cypress
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| n.柏树 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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evergreen
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| n.常青树；adj.四季常青的 | |
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feverish
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| adj.发烧的，狂热的，兴奋的 | |
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nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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watchful
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| adj.注意的，警惕的 | |
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alligators
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| n.短吻鳄( alligator的名词复数 ) | |
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specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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exquisitely
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| adv.精致地；强烈地；剧烈地；异常地 | |
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wrecks
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| n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 )；（事故中）遭严重毁坏的汽车（或飞机等）；（身体或精神上）受到严重损伤的人；状况非常糟糕的车辆（或建筑物等）v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 )；使（船舶）失事，使遇难，使下沉 | |
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eloquent
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| adj.雄辩的，口才流利的；明白显示出的 | |
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narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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73
superstitions
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| 迷信，迷信行为( superstition的名词复数 ) | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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75
recitals
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| n.独唱会( recital的名词复数 )；独奏会；小型音乐会、舞蹈表演会等；一系列事件等的详述 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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revolved
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| v.（使）旋转( revolve的过去式和过去分词 )；细想 | |
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revolving
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| adj.旋转的，轮转式的；循环的v.（使）旋转( revolve的现在分词 )；细想 | |
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tracts
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| 大片土地( tract的名词复数 )； 地带； （体内的）道； （尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的）短文 | |
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abounding
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| adj.丰富的，大量的v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的现在分词 ) | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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alluvial
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| adj.冲积的；淤积的 | |
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dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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emancipation
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| n.（从束缚、支配下）解放 | |
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86
scouring
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| 擦[洗]净，冲刷，洗涤 | |
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botanist
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| n.植物学家 | |
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88
swampy
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| adj.沼泽的，湿地的 | |
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steamships
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| n.汽船，大轮船( steamship的名词复数 ) | |
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lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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ruffled
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| adj. 有褶饰边的, 起皱的 动词ruffle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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scorched
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| 烧焦，烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（植物）枯萎，把…晒枯； 高速行驶； 枯焦 | |
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aquatic
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| adj.水生的，水栖的 | |
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boundless
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| adj.无限的；无边无际的；巨大的 | |
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96
evergreens
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| n.常青树，常绿植物，万年青( evergreen的名词复数 ) | |
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rattling
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| adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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