In particular, Georgians, even the commonest, have a most charmingly cordial way of saying to strangers, as they proceed on their journey, “I wish you well, sir.” The negroes of Georgia, too, are extremely mannerly and polite, and appear always to be delighted to find opportunity for obliging anybody.
Athens contains many beautiful residences. I never before saw so much about a home that was so evidently done for beauty only, although this is by no means a universal characteristic of Georgian homes. Nearly all well-to-do farmers’ families in Georgia and Tennessee spin and weave their own cloth. This work is almost all done by the mothers and daughters and consumes much of their time.
The traces of war are not only apparent on the broken fields, burnt fences, mills, and woods ruthlessly slaughtered10, but also on the countenances11 of the people. A few years after a forest has been burned another generation of bright and happy trees arises, in purest, freshest vigor12; only the old trees, wholly or half dead, bear marks of the calamity13. So with the people of this war-field. Happy, unscarred, and unclouded youth is growing up around the aged14, half-consumed, and fallen parents, who bear in sad measure the ineffaceable marks of the farthest-reaching and most infernal of all civilized15 calamities16.
Since the commencement of my floral pilgrimage I have seen much that is not only new, but altogether unallied, unacquainted with the plants of my former life. I have seen magnolias, tupelo, live-oak, Kentucky oak, tillandsia, long-leafed pine, palmetto, schrankia, and whole forests of strange trees and vine-tied thickets18 of blooming shrubs19; whole meadowfuls of magnificent bamboo and lakefuls of lilies, all new to me; yet I still press eagerly on to Florida as the special home of the tropical plants I am looking for, and I feel sure I shall not be disappointed.
The same day on which the money arrived I took passage on the steamship21 Sylvan22 Shore for Fernandina, Florida. The daylight part of this sail along the coast of Florida was full of novelty, and by association awakened23 memories of my Scottish days at Dunbar on the Firth of Forth24.
On board I had civilized conversation with a Southern planter on topics that are found floating in the mind of every white man down here who has a single thought. I also met a brother Scotchman, who was especially interesting and had some ideas outside of Southern politics. Altogether my half-day and night on board the steamer were pleasant, and carried me past a very sickly, entangled25, overflowed27, and unwalkable piece of forest.
It is pretty well known that a short geological time ago the ocean covered the sandy level margin28, extending from the foot of the Alleghanies to the present coast-line, and in receding29 left many basins for lakes and swamps. The land is still encroaching on the sea, and it does so not evenly, in a regular line, but in fringing lagoons30 and inlets and dotlike coral islands.
It is on the coast strip of isles32 and peninsulas that sea-island cotton is grown. Some of these small islands are afloat, anchored only by the roots of mangroves and rushes. For a few hours our steamer sailed in the open sea, exposed to its waves, but most of the time she threaded her way among the lagoons, the home of alligators36 and countless38 ducks and waders.
October 15. To-day, at last, I reached Florida, the so-called “Land of Flowers,” that I had so long waited for, wondering if after all my longings40 and prayers would be in vain, and I should die without a glimpse of the flowery Canaan. But here it is, at the distance of a few yards!—a flat, watery41, reedy coast, with clumps42 of mangrove33 and forests of moss-dressed, strange trees appearing low in the distance. The steamer finds her way among the reedy islands like a duck, and I step on a rickety wharf43. A few steps more take me to a rickety town, Fernandina. I discover a baker44, buy some bread, and without asking a single question, make for the shady, gloomy groves35.
In visiting Florida in dreams, of either day or night, I always came suddenly on a close forest of trees, every one in flower, and bent45 down and entangled to network by luxuriant, bright-blooming vines, and over all a flood of bright sunlight. But such was not the gate by which I entered the promised land. Salt marshes47, belonging more to the sea than to the land; with groves here and there, green and unflowered, sunk to the shoulders in sedges and rushes; with trees farther back, ill defined in their boundary, and instead of rising in hilly waves and swellings, stretching inland in low water-like levels.
We were all discharged by the captain of the steamer without breakfast, and, after meeting and examining the new plants that crowded about me, I threw down my press and little bag beneath a thicket17, where there was a dry spot on some broken heaps of grass and roots, something like a deserted48 muskrat49 house, and applied50 myself to my bread breakfast. Everything in earth and sky had an impression of strangeness; not a mark of friendly recognition, not a breath, not a spirit whisper of sympathy came from anything about me, and of course I was lonely. I lay on my elbow eating my bread, gazing, and listening to the profound strangeness.
While thus engaged I was startled from these gatherings51 of melancholy52 by a rustling53 sound in the rushes behind me. Had my mind been in health, and my body not starved, I should only have turned calmly to the noise. But in this half-starved, unfriended condition I could have no healthy thought, and I at once believed that the sound came from an alligator37. I fancied I could feel the stroke of his long notched54 tail and could see his big jaws55 and rows of teeth, closing with a springy snap on me, as I had seen in pictures.
Well, I don’t know the exact measure of my fright either in time or pain, but when I did come to a knowledge of the truth, my man-eating alligator became a tall white crane, handsome as a minister from spirit land—“only that.” I was ashamed and tried to excuse myself on account of Bonaventure anxiety and hunger.
Florida is so watery and vine-tied that pathless wanderings are not easily possible in any direction. I started to cross the State by a gap hewn for the locomotive, walking sometimes between the rails, stepping from tie to tie, or walking on the strip of sand at the sides, gazing into the mysterious forest, Nature’s own. It is impossible to write the dimmest picture of plant grandeur56 so redundant57, unfathomable.
Short was the measure of my walk to-day. A new, canelike grass, or big lily, or gorgeous flower belonging to tree or vine, would catch my attention, and I would throw down my bag and press and splash through the coffee-brown water for specimens59. Frequently I sank deeper and deeper until compelled to turn back and make the attempt in another and still another place. Oftentimes I was tangled26 in a labyrinth61 of armed vines like a fly in a spider-web. At all times, whether wading62 or climbing a tree for specimens of fruit, I was overwhelmed with the vastness and unapproachableness of the great guarded sea of sunny plants.
Magnolia grandiflora I had seen in Georgia; but its home, its better land, is here. Its large dark-green leaves, glossy63 bright above and rusty64 brown beneath, gleam and mirror the sunbeams most gloriously among countless flower-heaps of the climbing, smothering65 vines. It is bright also in fruit and more tropical in form and expression than the orange. It speaks itself a prince among its fellows.
Occasionally, I came to a little strip of open sand, planted with pine (Pinus palustris or Cubensis). Even these spots were mostly wet, though lighted with free sunshine, and adorned66 with purple liatris, and orange-colored Osmunda cinnamomea. But the grandest discovery of this great wild day was the palmetto.
I was meeting so many strange plants that I was much excited, making many stops to get specimens. But I could not force my way far through the swampy67 forest, although so tempting68 and full of promise. Regardless of water snakes or insects, I endeavored repeatedly to force a way through the tough vine-tangles69, but seldom succeeded in getting farther than a few hundred yards.
It was while feeling sad to think that I was only walking on the edge of the vast wood, that I caught sight of the first palmetto in a grassy70 place, standing71 almost alone. A few magnolias were near it, and bald cypresses72, but it was not shaded by them. They tell us that plants are perishable73, soulless creatures, that only man is immortal74, etc.; but this, I think, is something that we know very nearly nothing about. Anyhow, this palm was indescribably impressive and told me grander things than I ever got from human priest.
This vegetable has a plain gray shaft75, round as a broom-handle, and a crown of varnished76 channeled leaves. It is a plainer plant than the humblest of Wisconsin oaks; but, whether rocking and rustling in the wind or poised77 thoughtful and calm in the sunshine, it has a power of expression not excelled by any plant high or low that I have met in my whole walk thus far.
This, my first specimen60, was not very tall, only about twenty-five feet high, with fifteen or twenty leaves, arching equally and evenly all around. Each leaf was about ten feet in length, the blade four feet, the stalk six. The leaves are channeled like half-open clams78 and are highly polished, so that they reflect the sunlight like glass. The undeveloped leaves on the top stand erect79, closely folded, all together forming an oval crown over which the tropic light is poured and reflected from its slanting80 mirrors in sparks and splinters and long-rayed stars.
I am now in the hot gardens of the sun, where the palm meets the pine, longed and prayed for and often visited in dreams, and, though lonely to-night amid this multitude of strangers, strange plants, strange winds blowing gently, whispering, cooing, in a language I never learned, and strange birds also, everything solid or spiritual full of influences that I never before felt, yet I thank the Lord with all my heart for his goodness in granting me admission to this magnificent realm.
October 16. Last evening when I was in the trackless woods, the great mysterious night becoming more mysterious in the thickening darkness, I gave up hope of finding food or a house bed, and searched only for a dry spot on which to sleep safely hidden from wild, runaway81 negroes. I walked rapidly for hours in the wet, level woods, but not a foot of dry ground could I find. Hollow-voiced owls82 were calling without intermission. All manner of night sounds came from strange insects and beasts, one by one, or crowded together. All had a home but I. Jacob on the dry plains of Padanaram, with a stone pillow, must have been comparatively happy.
When I came to an open place where pines grew, it was about ten o’clock, and I thought that now at last I would find dry ground. But even the sandy barren was wet, and I had to grope in the dark a long time, feeling the ground with my hands when my feet ceased to plash, before I at last discovered a little hillock dry enough to lie down on. I ate a piece of bread that I fortunately had in my bag, drank some of the brown water about my precious hillock, and lay down. The noisiest of the unseen witnesses around me were the owls, who pronounced their gloomy speeches with profound emphasis, but did not prevent the coming of sleep to heal weariness.
In the morning I was cold and wet with dew, and I set out breakfastless. Flowers and beauty I had in abundance, but no bread. A serious matter is this bread which perishes, and, could it be dispensed83 with, I doubt if civilization would ever see me again. I walked briskly, watching for a house, as well as the grand assemblies of novel plants.
Near the middle of the forenoon I came to a shanty84 where a party of loggers were getting out long pines for ship spars. They were the wildest of all the white savages86 I have met. The long-haired ex-guerrillas of the mountains of Tennessee and North Carolina are uncivilized fellows; but for downright barbarism these Florida loggers excel. Nevertheless, they gave me a portion of their yellow pork and hominy without either apparent hospitality or a grudge87, and I was glad to escape to the forest again.
A few hours later I dined with three men and three dogs. I was viciously attacked by the latter, who undertook to undress me with their teeth. I was nearly dragged down backward, but escaped unbitten. Liver pie, mixed with sweet potatoes and fat duff, was set before me, and after I had finished a moderate portion, one of the men, turning to his companion, remarked: “Wall, I guess that man quit eatin’ ’cause he had nothin’ more to eat. I’ll get him more potato.”
Arrived at a place on the margin of a stagnant88 pool where an alligator had been rolling and sunning himself. “See,” said a man who lived here, “see, what a track that is! He must have been a mighty89 big fellow. Alligators wallow like hogs90 and like to lie in the sun. I’d like a shot at that fellow.” Here followed a long recital91 of bloody92 combats with the scaly93 enemy, in many of which he had, of course, taken an important part. Alligators are said to be extremely fond of negroes and dogs, and naturally the dogs and negroes are afraid of them.
Another man that I met to-day pointed20 to a shallow, grassy pond before his door. “There,” said he, “I once had a tough fight with an alligator. He caught my dog. I heard him howling, and as he was one of my best hunters I tried hard to save him. The water was only about knee-deep and I ran up to the alligator. It was only a small one about four feet long, and was having trouble in its efforts to drown the dog in the shallow water. I scared him and made him let go his hold, but before the poor crippled dog could reach the shore, he was caught again, and when I went at the alligator with a knife, it seized my arm. If it had been a little stronger it might have eaten me instead of my dog.”
I never in all my travels saw more than one, though they are said to be abundant in most of the swamps, and frequently attain94 a length of nine or ten feet. It is reported, also, that they are very savage85, oftentimes attacking men in boats. These independent inhabitants of the sluggish95 waters of this low coast cannot be called the friends of man, though I heard of one big fellow that was caught young and was partially96 civilized and made to work in harness.
Many good people believe that alligators were created by the Devil, thus accounting97 for their all-consuming appetite and ugliness. But doubtless these creatures are happy and fill the place assigned them by the great Creator of us all. Fierce and cruel they appear to us, but beautiful in the eyes of God. They, also, are his children, for He hears their cries, cares for them tenderly, and provides their daily bread.
The antipathies98 existing in the Lord’s great animal family must be wisely planned, like balanced repulsion and attraction in the mineral kingdom. How narrow we selfish, conceited99 creatures are in our sympathies! how blind to the rights of all the rest of creation! With what dismal100 irreverence101 we speak of our fellow mortals! Though alligators, snakes, etc., naturally repel102 us, they are not mysterious evils. They dwell happily in these flowery wilds, are part of God’s family, unfallen, undepraved, and cared for with the same species of tenderness and love as is bestowed103 on angels in heaven or saints on earth.
I think that most of the antipathies which haunt and terrify us are morbid104 productions of ignorance and weakness. I have better thoughts of those alligators now that I have seen them at home. Honorable representatives of the great saurians of an older creation, may you long enjoy your lilies and rushes, and be blessed now and then with a mouthful of terror-stricken man by way of dainty!
Found a beautiful lycopodium to-day, and many grasses in the dry sunlit places called “barrens,” “hummocks,” “savannas,” etc. Ferns also are abundant. What a flood of heat and light is daily poured out on these beautiful openings and intertangled woods! “The land of the sunny South,” we say, but no part of our diversified106 country is more shaded and covered from sunshine. Many a sunny sheet of plain and prairie break the continuity of the forests of the North and West, and the forests themselves are mostly lighted also, pierced with direct ray lances, or [the sunlight] passing to the earth and the lowly plants in filtered softness through translucent107 leaves. But in the dense108 Florida forests sunlight cannot enter. It falls on the evergreen109 roof and rebounds110 in long silvery lances and flashy spray. In many places there is not light sufficient to feed a single green leaf on these dark forest floors. All that the eye can reach is just a maze111 of tree stems and crooked112 leafless vine strings113. All the flowers, all the verdure, all the glory is up in the light.
The streams of Florida are still young, and in many places are untraceable. I expected to find these streams a little discolored from the vegetable matter that I knew they must contain, and I was sure that in so flat a country I should not find any considerable falls or long rapids. The streams of upper Georgia are almost unapproachable in some places on account of luxuriant bordering marines, but the banks are nevertheless high and well defined. Florida streams are not yet possessed114 of banks and braes and definite channels. Their waters in deep places are black as ink, perfectly115 opaque116, and glossy on the surface as if varnished. It often is difficult to ascertain117 which way they are flowing or creeping, so slowly and so widely do they circulate through the tree-tangles and swamps of the woods. The flowers here are strangers to me, but not more so than the rivers and lakes. Most streams appear to travel through a country with thoughts and plans for something beyond. But those of Florida are at home, do not appear to be traveling at all, and seem to know nothing of the sea.
October 17. Found a small, silvery-leafed magnolia, a bush ten feet high. Passed through a good many miles of open level pine barrens, as bounteously118 lighted as the “openings” of Wisconsin. The pines are rather small, are planted sparsely119 and pretty evenly on these sandy flats not long risen from the sea. Scarcely a specimen of any other tree is to be found associated with the pine. But there are some thickets of the little saw palmettos and a magnificent assemblage of tall grasses, their splendid panicles waving grandly in the warm wind, and making low tuneful changes in the glistening120 light that is flashed from their bent stems.
Not a pine, not a palm, in all this garden excels these stately grass plants in beauty of wind-waving gestures. Here are panicles that are one mass of refined purple; others that have flowers as yellow as ripe oranges, and stems polished and shining like steel wire. Some of the species are grouped in groves and thickets like trees, while others may be seen waving without any companions in sight. Some of them have wide-branching panicles like Kentucky oaks, others with a few tassels121 of spikelets drooping122 from a tall, leafless stem. But all of them are beautiful beyond the reach of language. I rejoice that God has “so clothed the grass of the field.” How strangely we are blinded to beauty and color, form and motion, by comparative size! For example, we measure grasses by our own stature123 and by the height and bulkiness of trees. But what is the size of the greatest man, or the tallest tree that ever overtopped a grass! Compared with other things in God’s creation the difference is nothing. We all are only microscopic124 animalcula.
October 18. Am walking on land that is almost dry. The dead levels are interrupted here and there by sandy waves a few feet in height. It is said that not a point in all Florida is more than three hundred feet above sea-level—a country where but little grading is required for roads, but much bridging and boring of many tunnels through forests.
Before reaching this open ground, in a lonely, swampy place in the woods, I met a large, muscular, brawny125 young negro, who eyed me with glaring, wistful curiosity. I was very thirsty at the time, and inquired of the man if there were any houses or springs near by where I could get a drink. “Oh, yes,” he replied, still eagerly searching me with his wild eyes. Then he inquired where I came from, where I was going, and what brought me to such a wild country, where I was liable to be robbed, and perhaps killed.
“Oh, I am not afraid of any one robbing me,” I said, “for I don’t carry anything worth stealing.” “Yes,” said he, “but you can’t travel without money.” I started to walk on, but he blocked my way. Then I noticed that he was trembling, and it flashed upon me all at once that he was thinking of knocking me down in order to rob me. After glaring at my pockets as if searching for weapons, he stammered126 in a quavering voice, “Do you carry shooting-irons?” His motives127, which I ought to have noted128 sooner, now were apparent to me. Though I had no pistol, I instinctively129 threw my hand back to my pistol pocket and, with my eyes fled on his, I marched up close to him and said, “I allow people to find out if I am armed or not.” Then he quailed130, stepped aside, and allowed me to pass, for fear of being shot. This was evidently a narrow escape.
A few miles farther on I came to a cotton-field, to patches of sugar cane58 carefully fenced, and some respectable-looking houses with gardens. These little fenced fields look as if they were intended to be for plants what cages are for birds. Discovered a large, treelike cactus131 in a dooryard; a small species was abundant on the sand-hillocks. Reached Gainesville late in the night.
When within three or four miles of the town I noticed a light off in the pine woods. As I was very thirsty, I thought I would venture toward it with the hope of obtaining water. In creeping cautiously and noiselessly through the grass to discover whether or no it was a camp of robber negroes, I came suddenly in full view of the best-lighted and most primitive132 of all the domestic establishments I have yet seen in town or grove34. There was, first of all, a big, glowing log fire, illuminating133 the overleaning bushes and trees, bringing out leaf and spray with more than noonday distinctness, and making still darker the surrounding wood. In the center of this globe of light sat two negroes. I could see their ivory gleaming from the great lips, and their smooth cheeks flashing off light as if made of glass. Seen anywhere but in the South, the glossy pair would have been taken for twin devils, but here it was only a negro and his wife at their supper.
I ventured forward to the radiant presence of the black pair, and, after being stared at with that desperate fixedness134 which is said to subdue135 the lion, I was handed water in a gourd136 from somewhere out of the darkness. I was standing for a moment beside the big fire, looking at the unsurpassable simplicity137 of the establishment, and asking questions about the road to Gainesville, when my attention was called to a black lump of something lying in the ashes of the fire. It seemed to be made of rubber; but ere I had time for much speculation138, the woman bent wooingly over the black object and said with motherly kindness, “Come, honey, eat yo’ hominy.”
At the sound of “hominy” the rubber gave strong manifestations139 of vitality140 and proved to be a burly little negro boy, rising from the earth naked as to the earth he came. Had he emerged from the black muck of a marsh46, we might easily have believed that the Lord had manufactured him like Adam direct from the earth.
Surely, thought I, as I started for Gainesville, surely I am now coming to the tropics, where the inhabitants wear nothing but their own skins. This fashion is sufficiently141 simple, “no troublesome disguises,” as Milton calls clothing,—but it certainly is not quite in harmony with Nature. Birds make nests and nearly all beasts make some kind of bed for their young; but these negroes allow their younglings to lie nestless and naked in the dirt.
Gainesville is rather attractive—an oasis142 in the desert, compared with other villages. It gets its life from the few plantations143 located about it on dry ground that rises islandlike a few feet above the swamps. Obtained food and lodging144 at a sort of tavern145.
October 19. Dry land nearly all day. Encountered limestone146, flint, coral, shells, etc. Passed several thrifty147 cotton plantations with comfortable residences, contrasting sharply with the squalid hovels of my first days in Florida. Found a single specimen of a handsome little plant, which at once, in some mysterious way, brought to mind a young friend in Indiana. How wonderfully our thoughts and impressions are stored! There is that in the glance of a flower which may at times control the greatest of creation’s braggart148 lords.
The magnolia is much more abundant here. It forms groves and almost exclusively forests the edges of ponds and the banks of streams. The easy, dignified149 simplicity of this noble tree, its plain leaf endowed with superb richness of color and form, its open branches festooned with graceful150 vines and tillandsia, its showy crimson151 fruit, and its magnificent fragrant152 white flowers make Magnolia grandiflora the most lovable of Florida trees.
Discovered a great many beautiful polygonums, petalostemons, and yellow leguminous vines. Passed over fine sunny areas of the long-leafed and Cuban pines, which were everywhere accompanied by fine grasses and solidagoes. Wild orange groves are said to be rather common here, but I have seen only limes growing wild in the woods.
Came to a hut about noon, and, being weary and hungry, asked if I could have dinner. After serious consultation153 I was told to wait, that dinner would soon be ready. I saw only the man and his wife. If they had children, they may have been hidden in the weeds on account of nakedness. Both were suffering from malarial154 fever, and were very dirty. But they did not appear to have any realizing sense of discomfort155 from either the one or the other of these misfortunes. The dirt which encircled the countenances of these people did not, like the common dirt of the North, stick on the skin in bold union like plaster or paint, but appeared to stand out a little on contact like a hazy156, misty157, half-aerial mud envelope, the most diseased and incurable158 dirt that I ever saw, evidently desperately159 chronic160 and hereditary161.
It seems impossible that children from such parents could ever be clean. Dirt and disease are dreadful enough when separate, but combined are inconceivably horrible. The neat cottage with a fragrant circumference162 of thyme and honeysuckle is almost unknown here. I have seen dirt on garments regularly stratified, the various strata163 no doubt indicating different periods of life. Some of them, perhaps, were annual layers, furnishing, like those of trees, a means of determining the age. Man and other civilized animals are the only creatures that ever become dirty.
Slept in the barrens at the side of a log. Suffered from cold and was drenched164 with dew. What a comfort a companion would be in the dark loneliness of such nights! Did not dare to make a fire for fear of discovery by robber negroes, who, I was warned, would kill a man for a dollar or two. Had a long walk after nightfall, hoping to discover a house. Became very thirsty and often was compelled to drink from slimy pools groped for in the grass, with the fear of alligators before my eyes.
October 20. Swamp very dense during this day’s journey. Almost one continuous sheet of water covered with aquatic165 trees and vines. No stream that I crossed to-day appeared to have the least idea where it was going. Saw an alligator plash into the sedgy brown water by the roadside from an old log.
Arrived at night at the house of Captain Simmons, one of the very few scholarly, intelligent men that I have met in Florida. He had been an officer in the Confederate army in the war and was, of course, prejudiced against the North, but polite and kind to me, nevertheless. Our conversation, as we sat by the light of the fire, was on the one great question, slavery and its concomitants. I managed, however, to switch off to something more congenial occasionally—the birds of the neighborhood, the animals, the climate, and what spring, summer, and winter are like in these parts.
About the climate, I could not get much information, as he had always lived in the South and, of course, saw nothing extraordinary in weather to which he had always been accustomed. But in speaking of animals, he at once became enthusiastic and told many stories of hairbreadth escapes, in the woods about his house, from bears, hungry alligators, wounded deer, etc. “And now,” said he, forgetting in his kindness that I was from the hated North, “you must stay with me a few days. Deer are abundant. I will lend you a rifle and we’ll go hunting. I hunt whenever I wish venison, and I can get it about as easily from the woods near by as a shepherd can get mutton out of his flock. And perhaps we will see a bear, for they are far from scarce here, and there are some big gray wolves, too.”
I expressed a wish to see some large alligators. “Oh, well,” said he, “I can take you where you will see plenty of those fellows, but they are not much to look at. I once got a good look at an alligator that was lying at the bottom of still, transparent166 water, and I think that his eyes were the most impressively cold and cruel of any animal I have seen. Many alligators go out to sea among the keys. These sea alligators are the largest and most ferocious167, and sometimes attack people by trying to strike them with their tails when they are out fishing in boats.
“Another thing I wish you to see,” he continued, “is a palmetto grove on a rich hummock105 a few miles from here. The grove is about seven miles in length by three in breadth. The ground is covered with long grass, uninterrupted with bushes or other trees. It is the finest grove of palmettos I have ever seen and I have oftentimes thought that it would make a fine subject for an artist.”
I concluded to stop—more to see this wonderful palmetto hummock than to hunt. Besides, I was weary and the prospect168 of getting a little rest was a tempting consideration after so many restless nights and long, hard walks by day.
October 21. Having outlived the sanguinary hunters’ tales of my loquacious169 host, and breakfasted sumptuously170 on fresh venison and “caller” fish from the sea, I set out for the grand palm grove. I had seen these dazzling sun-children in every day of my walk through Florida, but they were usually standing solitary171, or in groups of three or four; but to-day I was to see them by the mile. The captain led me a short distance through his corn field and showed me a trail which would conduct me to the palmy hummock. He pointed out the general direction, which I noted upon my compass.
“Now,” said he, “at the other side of my farthest field you will come to a jungle of cat-briers, but will be able to pass them if you manage to keep the trail. You will find that the way is not by any means well marked, for in passing through a broad swamp, the trail makes a good many abrupt172 turns to avoid deep water, fallen trees, or impenetrable thickets. You will have to wade39 a good deal, and in passing the water-covered places you will have to watch for the point where the trail comes out on the opposite side.”
I made my way through the briers, which in strength and ferocity equaled those of Tennessee, followed the path through all of its dim waverings, waded173 the many opposing pools, and, emerging suddenly from the leafy darkness of the swamp forest, at last stood free and unshaded on the border of the sun-drenched palm garden. It was a level area of grasses and sedges, smooth as a prairie, well starred with flowers, and bounded like a clearing by a wall of vine-laden trees.
The palms had full possession and appeared to enjoy their sunny home. There was no jostling, no apparent effort to outgrow174 each other. Abundance of sunlight was there for every crown, and plenty to fall between. I walked enchanted175 in their midst. What a landscape! Only palms as far as the eye could reach! Smooth pillars rising from the grass, each capped with a sphere of leaves, shining in the sun as bright as a star. The silence and calm were as deep as ever I found in the dark, solemn pine woods of Canada, and that contentment which is an attribute of the best of God’s plant people was as impressively felt in this alligator wilderness176 as in the homes of the happy, healthy people of the North.
The admirable Linnaeus calls palms “the princes of the vegetable world.” I know that there is grandeur and nobility in their character, and that there are palms nobler far than these. But in rank they appear to me to stand below both the oak and the pine. The motions of the palms, their gestures, are not very graceful. They appear to best advantage when perfectly motionless in the noontide calm and intensity177 of light. But they rustle178 and rock in the evening wind. I have seen grasses waving with far more dignity. And when our northern pines are waving and blowing in sign of worship with the winter storm-winds where is the prince of palms that could have the conscience to demand their homage179!
Members of this palm congregation were of all sizes with respect to their stems; but their glorious crowns were all alike. In development there is only the terminal bud to consider. The young pawn180 of this species emerges from the ground in full strength, one cluster of leaves arched every way, making a sphere about ten or twelve feet in diameter. The outside lower leaves gradually become yellow, wither181, and break off, the petiole snapping squarely across, a few inches from the stem. New leaves develop with wonderful rapidity. They stand erect at first, but gradually arch outward as they expand their blades and lengthen182 their petioles.
New leaves arise constantly from the center of the grand bud, while old ones break away from the outside. The splendid crowns are thus kept about the same size, perhaps a little larger than in youth while they are yet on the ground. As the development of the central axis183 goes on, the crown is gradually raised on a stem of about six to twelve inches in diameter. This stem is of equal thickness at the top and at the bottom and when young is roughened with the broken petioles. But these petiole-stumps fall off and disappear as they become old, and the trunk becomes smooth as if turned in a lathe184.
After some hours in this charming forest I started on the return journey before night, on account of the difficulties of the swamp and the brier patch. On leaving the palmettos and entering the vine-tangled, half-submerged forest I sought long and carefully, but in vain, for the trail, for I had drifted about too incautiously in search of plants. But, recollecting185 the direction that I had followed in the morning, I took a compass bearing and started to penetrate186 the swamp in a direct line.
Of course I had a sore weary time, pushing through the tanglement of falling, standing, and half-fallen trees and bushes, to say nothing of knotted vines as remarkable187 for their efficient army of interlocking and lancing prickers as for their length and the number of their blossoms. But these were not my greatest obstacles, nor yet the pools and lagoons full of dead leaves and alligators. It was the army of cat-briers that I most dreaded188. I knew that I would have to find the narrow slit189 of a lane before dark or spend the night with mosquitoes and alligators, without food or fire. The entire distance was not great, but a traveler in open woods can form no idea of the crooked and strange difficulties of pathless locomotion190 in these thorny191, watery Southern tangles, especially in pitch darkness. I struggled hard and kept my course, leaving the general direction only when drawn192 aside by a plant of extraordinary promise, that I wanted for a specimen, or when I had to make the half-circuit of a pile of trees, or of a deep lagoon31 or pond.
In wading I never attempted to keep my clothes dry, because the water was too deep, and the necessary care would consume too much time. Had the water that I was forced to wade been transparent it would have lost much of its difficulty. But as it was, I constantly expected to plant my feet on an alligator, and therefore proceeded with strained caution. The opacity194 of the water caused uneasiness also on account of my inability to determine its depth. In many places I was compelled to turn back, after wading forty or fifty yards, and to try again a score of times before I succeeded in getting across a single lagoon.
At length, after miles of wading and wallowing, I arrived at the grand cat-brier encampment which guarded the whole forest in solid phalanx, unmeasured miles up and down across my way. Alas195! the trail by which I had crossed in the morning was not to be found, and night was near. In vain I scrambled196 back and forth in search of an opening. There was not even a strip of dry ground on which to rest. Everywhere the long briers arched over to the vines and bushes of the watery swamp, leaving no standing-ground between them. I began to think of building some sort of a scaffold in a tree to rest on through the night, but concluded to make one more desperate effort to find the narrow track.
After calm, concentrated recollection of my course, I made a long exploration toward the left down the brier line, and after scrambling198 a mile or so, perspiring199 and bleeding, I discovered the blessed trail and escaped to dry land and the light. Reached the captain at sun-down. Dined on milk and johnny-cake and fresh venison. Was congratulated on my singular good fortune and woodcraft, and soon after supper was sleeping the deep sleep of the weary and the safe.
October 22. This morning I was easily prevailed upon by the captain and an ex-judge, who was rusticating200 here, to join in a deer hunt. Had a delightful201 ramble197 in the long grass and flowery barrens. Started one deer but did not draw a single shot. The captain, the judge, and myself stood at different stations where the deer was expected to pass, while a brother of the captain entered the woods to arouse the game from cover. The one deer that he started took a direction different from any which this particular old buck202 had ever been known to take in times past, and in so doing was cordially cursed as being the “d——dest deer that ever ran unshot.” To me it appeared as “d——dest” work to slaughter9 God’s cattle for sport. “They were made for us,” say these self-approving preachers; “for our food, our recreation, or other uses not yet discovered.” As truthfully we might say on behalf of a bear, when he deals successfully with an unfortunate hunter, “Men and other bipeds were made for bears, and thanks be to God for claws and teeth so long.”
Let a Christian203 hunter go to the Lord’s woods and kill his well-kept beasts, or wild Indians, and it is well; but let an enterprising specimen of these proper, predestined victims go to houses and fields and kill the most worthless person of the vertical204 godlike killers,—oh! that is horribly unorthodox, and on the part of the Indians atrocious murder! Well, I have precious little sympathy for the selfish propriety205 of civilized man, and if a war of races should occur between the wild beasts and Lord Man, I would be tempted193 to sympathize with the bears.
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1
dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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ornamental
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| adj.装饰的；作装饰用的；n.装饰品；观赏植物 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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divested
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| v.剥夺( divest的过去式和过去分词 )；脱去（衣服）；2。从…取去…；1。（给某人）脱衣服 | |
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pervade
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| v.弥漫，遍及，充满，渗透，漫延 | |
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twine
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| v.搓，织，编饰；（使）缠绕 | |
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durability
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| n.经久性，耐用性 | |
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slaughter
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| n.屠杀，屠宰；vt.屠杀，宰杀 | |
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slaughtered
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| v.屠杀，杀戮，屠宰( slaughter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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countenances
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| n.面容( countenance的名词复数 )；表情；镇静；道义支持 | |
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vigor
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| n.活力，精力，元气 | |
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calamity
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| n.灾害，祸患，不幸事件 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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16
calamities
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| n.灾祸，灾难( calamity的名词复数 )；不幸之事 | |
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thicket
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| n.灌木丛，树林 | |
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thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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steamship
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| n.汽船，轮船 | |
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sylvan
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| adj.森林的 | |
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23
awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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entangled
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| adj.卷入的；陷入的；被缠住的；缠在一起的v.使某人（某物/自己）缠绕，纠缠于（某物中），使某人（自己）陷入（困难或复杂的环境中）( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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27
overflowed
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| 溢出的 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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29
receding
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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30
lagoons
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| n.污水池( lagoon的名词复数 )；潟湖；（大湖或江河附近的）小而浅的淡水湖；温泉形成的池塘 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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32
isles
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| 岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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33
mangrove
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| n.(植物)红树，红树林 | |
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34
grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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36
alligators
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| n.短吻鳄( alligator的名词复数 ) | |
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alligator
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| n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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38
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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39
wade
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| v.跋涉，涉水；n.跋涉 | |
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40
longings
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| 渴望，盼望( longing的名词复数 ) | |
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41
watery
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| adj.有水的，水汪汪的；湿的，湿润的 | |
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42
clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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43
wharf
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| n.码头，停泊处 | |
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44
baker
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| n.面包师 | |
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45
bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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46
marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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marshes
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| n.沼泽，湿地( marsh的名词复数 ) | |
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48
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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49
muskrat
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| n.麝香鼠 | |
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50
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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51
gatherings
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| 聚集( gathering的名词复数 )； 收集； 采集； 搜集 | |
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52
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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53
rustling
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| n. 瑟瑟声，沙沙声 adj. 发沙沙声的 | |
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54
notched
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| a.有凹口的，有缺口的 | |
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55
jaws
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| n.口部；嘴 | |
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56
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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57
redundant
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| adj.多余的，过剩的；(食物)丰富的；被解雇的 | |
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58
cane
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| n.手杖，细长的茎，藤条；v.以杖击，以藤编制的 | |
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59
specimens
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| n.样品( specimen的名词复数 )；范例；（化验的）抽样；某种类型的人 | |
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60
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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61
labyrinth
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| n.迷宫；难解的事物；迷路 | |
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62
wading
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的现在分词 ) | |
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63
glossy
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| adj.平滑的；有光泽的 | |
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64
rusty
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| adj.生锈的；锈色的；荒废了的 | |
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65
smothering
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| （使）窒息， （使）透不过气( smother的现在分词 )； 覆盖； 忍住； 抑制 | |
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adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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swampy
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| adj.沼泽的，湿地的 | |
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68
tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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tangles
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| （使）缠结， （使）乱作一团( tangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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70
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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71
standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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cypresses
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| n.柏属植物，柏树( cypress的名词复数 ) | |
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73
perishable
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| adj.（尤指食物）易腐的，易坏的 | |
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immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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75
shaft
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| n.(工具的)柄，杆状物 | |
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varnished
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| 浸渍过的，涂漆的 | |
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poised
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| a.摆好姿势不动的 | |
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clams
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| n.蛤；蚌，蛤( clam的名词复数 )v.（在沙滩上）挖蛤( clam的第三人称单数 ) | |
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erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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slanting
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| 倾斜的，歪斜的 | |
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81
runaway
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| n.逃走的人，逃亡，亡命者；adj.逃亡的，逃走的 | |
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82
owls
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| n.猫头鹰( owl的名词复数 ) | |
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dispensed
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| v.分配( dispense的过去式和过去分词 )；施与；配（药） | |
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84
shanty
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| n.小屋，棚屋；船工号子 | |
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85
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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87
grudge
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| n.不满，怨恨，妒嫉；vt.勉强给，不情愿做 | |
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stagnant
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| adj.不流动的，停滞的，不景气的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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hogs
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| n.（尤指喂肥供食用的）猪( hog的名词复数 )；（供食用的）阉公猪；彻底地做某事；自私的或贪婪的人 | |
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recital
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| n.朗诵，独奏会，独唱会 | |
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92
bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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scaly
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| adj.鱼鳞状的；干燥粗糙的 | |
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attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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sluggish
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| adj.懒惰的，迟钝的，无精打采的 | |
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96
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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accounting
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| n.会计，会计学，借贷对照表 | |
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antipathies
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| 反感( antipathy的名词复数 )； 引起反感的事物； 憎恶的对象； （在本性、倾向等方面的）不相容 | |
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conceited
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| adj.自负的，骄傲自满的 | |
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100
dismal
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| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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101
irreverence
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| n.不尊敬 | |
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102
repel
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| v.击退，抵制，拒绝，排斥 | |
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bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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104
morbid
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| adj.病的；致病的；病态的；可怕的 | |
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105
hummock
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| n.小丘 | |
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106
diversified
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| adj.多样化的，多种经营的v.使多样化，多样化( diversify的过去式和过去分词 )；进入新的商业领域 | |
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107
translucent
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| adj.半透明的；透明的 | |
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108
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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109
evergreen
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| n.常青树；adj.四季常青的 | |
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110
rebounds
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| 反弹球( rebound的名词复数 )； 回弹球； 抢断篮板球； 复兴 | |
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111
maze
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| n.迷宫，八阵图，混乱，迷惑 | |
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112
crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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113
strings
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| n.弦 | |
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114
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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115
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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116
opaque
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| adj.不透光的；不反光的，不传导的；晦涩的 | |
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117
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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118
bounteously
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| adv.慷慨地，丰富地 | |
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119
sparsely
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| adv.稀疏地；稀少地；不足地；贫乏地 | |
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120
glistening
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| adj.闪耀的，反光的v.湿物闪耀，闪亮( glisten的现在分词 ) | |
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121
tassels
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| n.穗( tassel的名词复数 )；流苏状物；（植物的）穗；玉蜀黍的穗状雄花v.抽穗， （玉米）长穗须( tassel的第三人称单数 )；使抽穗， （为了使作物茁壮生长）摘去穗状雄花；用流苏装饰 | |
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122
drooping
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| adj. 下垂的，无力的 动词droop的现在分词 | |
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123
stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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124
microscopic
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| adj.微小的，细微的，极小的，显微的 | |
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125
brawny
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| adj.强壮的 | |
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126
stammered
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| v.结巴地说出( stammer的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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127
motives
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| n.动机，目的( motive的名词复数 ) | |
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128
noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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129
instinctively
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| adv.本能地 | |
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130
quailed
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| 害怕，发抖，畏缩( quail的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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131
cactus
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| n.仙人掌 | |
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132
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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133
illuminating
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| a.富于启发性的，有助阐明的 | |
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134
fixedness
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| n.固定；稳定；稳固 | |
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135
subdue
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| vt.制服，使顺从，征服；抑制，克制 | |
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136
gourd
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| n.葫芦 | |
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137
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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138
speculation
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| n.思索，沉思；猜测；投机 | |
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139
manifestations
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| n.表示，显示（manifestation的复数形式） | |
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140
vitality
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| n.活力，生命力，效力 | |
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141
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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142
oasis
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| n.（沙漠中的）绿洲，宜人的地方 | |
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143
plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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144
lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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145
tavern
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| n.小旅馆，客栈；小酒店 | |
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146
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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147
thrifty
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| adj.节俭的；兴旺的；健壮的 | |
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148
braggart
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| n.吹牛者；adj.吹牛的，自夸的 | |
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149
dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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150
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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151
crimson
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| n./adj.深(绯)红色(的)；vi.脸变绯红色 | |
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152
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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153
consultation
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| n.咨询；商量；商议；会议 | |
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154
malarial
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| 患疟疾的，毒气的 | |
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155
discomfort
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| n.不舒服，不安，难过，困难，不方便 | |
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156
hazy
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| adj.有薄雾的，朦胧的；不肯定的，模糊的 | |
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157
misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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158
incurable
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| adj.不能医治的，不能矫正的，无救的；n.不治的病人，无救的人 | |
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159
desperately
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| adv.极度渴望地，绝望地，孤注一掷地 | |
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160
chronic
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| adj.(疾病)长期未愈的，慢性的；极坏的 | |
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161
hereditary
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| adj.遗传的，遗传性的，可继承的，世袭的 | |
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162
circumference
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| n.圆周，周长，圆周线 | |
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163
strata
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| n.地层（复数）；社会阶层 | |
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164
drenched
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| adj.湿透的；充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 )；在某人（某物）上大量使用（某液体） | |
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165
aquatic
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| adj.水生的，水栖的 | |
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166
transparent
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| adj.明显的，无疑的；透明的 | |
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167
ferocious
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| adj.凶猛的，残暴的，极度的，十分强烈的 | |
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168
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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169
loquacious
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| adj.多嘴的，饶舌的 | |
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170
sumptuously
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| 奢侈地，豪华地 | |
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171
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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172
abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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173
waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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174
outgrow
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| vt.长大得使…不再适用；成长得不再要 | |
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175
enchanted
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| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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176
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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177
intensity
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| n.强烈，剧烈；强度；烈度 | |
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178
rustle
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| v.沙沙作响；偷盗(牛、马等)；n.沙沙声声 | |
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179
homage
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| n.尊敬，敬意，崇敬 | |
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180
pawn
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| n.典当，抵押，小人物，走卒；v.典当，抵押 | |
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181
wither
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| vt.使凋谢，使衰退，(用眼神气势等)使畏缩；vi.枯萎，衰退，消亡 | |
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182
lengthen
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| vt.使伸长，延长 | |
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183
axis
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| n.轴，轴线，中心线；坐标轴，基准线 | |
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184
lathe
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| n.车床，陶器，镟床 | |
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185
recollecting
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| v.记起，想起( recollect的现在分词 ) | |
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186
penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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187
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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188
dreaded
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| adj.令人畏惧的；害怕的v.害怕，恐惧，担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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189
slit
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| n.狭长的切口；裂缝；vt.切开，撕裂 | |
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190
locomotion
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| n.运动，移动 | |
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191
thorny
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| adj.多刺的，棘手的 | |
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192
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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193
tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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194
opacity
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| n.不透明；难懂 | |
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195
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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196
scrambled
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的过去式和过去分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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197
ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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198
scrambling
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| v.快速爬行( scramble的现在分词 )；攀登；争夺；（军事飞机）紧急起飞 | |
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199
perspiring
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| v.出汗，流汗( perspire的现在分词 ) | |
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200
rusticating
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| v.罚（大学生）暂时停学离校( rusticate的现在分词 )；在农村定居 | |
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201
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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202
buck
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| n.雄鹿，雄兔；v.马离地跳跃 | |
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203
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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204
vertical
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| adj.垂直的，顶点的，纵向的；n.垂直物，垂直的位置 | |
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205
propriety
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| n.正当行为；正当；适当 | |
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