How imperishable are all the impressions that ever vibrate one’s life! We cannot forget anything. Memories may escape the action of will, may sleep a long time, but when stirred by the right influence, though that influence be light as a shadow, they flash into full stature10 and life with everything in place. For nineteen years my vision was bounded by forests, but to-day, emerging from a multitude of tropical plants, I beheld11 the Gulf12 of Mexico stretching away unbounded, except by the sky. What dreams and speculative13 matter for thought arose as I stood on the strand14, gazing out on the burnished15, treeless plain!
But now at the seaside I was in difficulty. I had reached a point that I could not ford16, and Cedar17 Keys had an empty harbor. Would I proceed down the peninsula to Tampa and Key West, where I would be sure to find a vessel18 for Cuba, or would I wait here, like Crusoe, and pray for a ship. Full of these thoughts, I stepped into a little store which had a considerable trade in quinine and alligator19 and rattlesnake skins, and inquired about shipping20, means of travel, etc.
The proprietor21 informed me that one of several sawmills near the village was running, and that a schooner22 chartered to carry a load of lumber23 to Galveston, Texas, was expected at the mills for a load. This mill was situated24 on a tongue of land a few miles along the coast from Cedar Keys, and I determined25 to see Mr. Hodgson, the owner, to find out particulars about the expected schooner, the time she would take to load, whether I would be likely to obtain passage on her, etc.
Found Mr. Hodgson at his mill. Stated my case, and was kindly26 furnished the desired information. I determined to wait the two weeks likely to elapse before she sailed, and go on her to the flowery plains of Texas, from any of whose ports, I fancied, I could easily find passage to the West Indies. I agreed to work for Mr. Hodgson in the mill until I sailed, as I had but little money. He invited me to his spacious27 house, which occupied a shell hillock and commanded a fine view of the Gulf and many gems28 of palmy islets, called “keys,” that fringe the shore like huge bouquets30 not too big, however, for the spacious waters. Mr. Hodgson’s family welcomed me with that open, unconstrained cordiality which is characteristic of the better class of Southern people.
At the sawmill a new cover had been put on the main driving pulley, which, made of rough plank31, had to be turned off and smoothed. He asked me if I was able to do this job and I told him that I could. Fixing a rest and making a tool out of an old file, I directed the engineer to start the engine and run slow. After turning down the pulley and getting it true, I put a keen edge on a common carpenter’s plane, quickly finished the job, and was assigned a bunk32 in one of the employees’ lodging-houses.
The next day I felt a strange dullness and headache while I was botanizing along the coast. Thinking that a bath in the salt water might refresh me, I plunged33 in and swam a little distance, but this seemed only to make me feel worse. I felt anxious for something sour, and walked back to the village to buy lemons.
Thus and here my long walk was interrupted. I thought that a few days’ sail would land me among the famous flower-beds of Texas. But the expected ship came and went while I was helpless with fever. The very day after reaching the sea I began to be weighed down by inexorable leaden numbness34, which I resisted and tried to shake off for three days, by bathing in the Gulf, by dragging myself about among the palms, plants, and strange shells of the shore, and by doing a little mill work. I did not fear any serious illness, for I never was sick before, and was unwilling35 to pay attention to my feelings.
But yet heavier and more remorselessly pressed the growing fever, rapidly gaining on my strength. On the third day after my arrival I could not take any nourishment36, but craved37 acid. Cedar Keys was only a mile or two distant, and I managed to walk there to buy lemons. On returning, about the middle of the afternoon, the fever broke on me like a storm, and before I had staggered halfway38 to the mill I fell down unconscious on the narrow trail among dwarf39 palmettos.
When I awoke from the hot fever sleep, the stars were shining, and I was at a loss to know which end of the trail to take, but fortunately, as it afterwards proved, I guessed right. Subsequently, as I fell again and again after walking only a hundred yards or so, I was careful to lie with my head in the direction in which I thought the mill was. I rose, staggered, and fell, I know not how many times, in delirious40 bewilderment, gasping41 and throbbing42 with only moments of consciousness. Thus passed the hours till after midnight, when I reached the mill lodging-house.
The watchman on his rounds found me lying on a heap of sawdust at the foot of the stairs. I asked him to assist me up the steps to bed, but he thought my difficulty was only intoxication43 and refused to help me. The mill hands, especially on Saturday nights, often returned from the village drunk. This was the cause of the watchman’s refusal. Feeling that I must get to bed, I made out to reach it on hands and knees, tumbled in after a desperate struggle, and immediately became oblivious44 to everything.
I awoke at a strange hour on a strange day to hear Mr. Hodgson ask a watcher beside me whether I had yet spoken, and when he replied that I had not, he said: “Well, you must keep on pouring in quinine. That’s all we can do.” How long I lay unconscious I never found out, but it must have been many days. Some time or other I was moved on a horse from the mill quarters to Mr. Hodgson’s house, where I was nursed about three months with unfailing kindness, and to the skill and care of Mr. and Mrs. Hodgson I doubtless owe my life. Through quinine and calomel—in sorry abundance—with other milder medicines, my malarial46 fever became typhoid. I had night sweats, and my legs became like posts of the temper and consistency47 of clay on account of dropsy. So on until January, a weary time.
As soon as I was able to get out of bed, I crept away to the edge of the wood, and sat day after day beneath a moss-draped live-oak, watching birds feeding on the shore when the tide was out. Later, as I gathered some strength, I sailed in a little skiff from one key to another. Nearly all the shrubs48 and trees here are ever-green, and a few of the smaller plants are in flower all winter. The principal trees on this Cedar Key are the juniper, long-leafed pine, and live-oak. All of the latter, living and dead, are heavily draped with tillandsia, like those of Bonaventure. The leaf is oval, about two inches long, three fourths of an inch wide, glossy49 and dark green above, pale beneath. The trunk is usually much divided, and is extremely unwedgeable. The specimen50 on the opposite page[7] is growing in the dooryard of Mr. Hodgson’s house. It is a grand old king, whose crown gleamed in the bright sky long ere the Spanish shipbuilders felled a single tree of this noble species.
[7] Of the original journal.
The live-oaks of these keys divide empire with the long-leafed pine and palmetto, but in many places on the mainland there are large tracts51 exclusively occupied by them. Like the Bonaventure oaks they have the upper side of their main spreading branches thickly planted with ferns, grasses, small saw palmettos, etc. There is also a dwarf oak here, which forms dense52 thickets53. The oaks of this key are not, like those of the Wisconsin openings, growing on grassy54 slopes, but stand, sunk to the shoulders, in flowering magnolias, heathworts, etc.
During my long sojourn55 here as a convalescent I used to lie on my back for whole days beneath the ample arms of these great trees, listening to the winds and the birds. There is an extensive shallow on the coast, close by, which the receding56 tide exposes daily. This is the feeding-ground of thousands of waders of all sizes, plumage, and language, and they make a lively picture and noise when they gather at the great family board to eat their daily bread, so bountifully provided for them.
Their leisure in time of high tide they spend in various ways and places. Some go in large flocks to reedy margins58 about the islands and wade57 and stand about quarrelling or making sport, occasionally finding a stray mouthful to eat. Some stand on the mangroves of the solitary59 shore, now and then plunging60 into the water after a fish. Some go long journeys in-land, up creeks61 and inlets. A few lonely old herons of solemn look and wing retire to favorite oaks. It was my delight to watch those old white sages62 of immaculate feather as they stood erect63 drowsing away the dull hours between tides, curtained by long skeins of tillandsia. White-bearded hermits64 gazing dreamily from dark caves could not appear more solemn or more becomingly shrouded65 from the rest of their fellow beings.
One of the characteristic plants of these keys is the Spanish bayonet, a species of yucca, about eight or ten feet in height, and with a trunk three or four inches in diameter when full grown. It belongs to the lily family and develops palmlike from terminal buds. The stout66 leaves are very rigid67, sharp-pointed and bayonet-like. By one of these leaves a man might be as seriously stabbed as by an army bayonet, and woe68 to the luckless wanderer who dares to urge his way through these armed gardens after dark. Vegetable cats of many species will rob him of his clothes and claw his flesh, while dwarf palmettos will saw his bones, and the bayonets will glide69 to his joints70 and marrow72 without the smallest consideration for Lord Man.
The climate of these precious islets is simply warm summer and warmer summer, corresponding in time with winter and summer in the North. The weather goes smoothly73 over the points of union betwixt the twin summers. Few of the storms are very loud or variable. The average temperature during the day, in December, was about sixty-five degrees in the shade, but on one day a little damp snow fell. Cedar Key is two and one half or three miles in diameter and its highest point is forty-four feet above mean tide-water. It is surrounded by scores of other keys, many of them looking like a clump74 of palms, arranged like a tasteful bouquet29, and placed in the sea to be kept fresh. Others have quite a sprinkling of oaks and junipers, beautifully united with vines. Still others consist of shells, with a few grasses and mangroves circled with a rim75 of rushes. Those which have sedgy margins furnish a favorite retreat for countless76 waders and divers77, especially for the pelicans78 that frequently whiten the shore like a ring of foam79.
It is delightful80 to observe the assembling of these feathered people from the woods and reedy isles81; herons white as wave-tops, or blue as the sky, winnowing82 the warm air on wide quiet wing; pelicans coming with baskets to fill, and the multitude of smaller sailors of the air, swift as swallows, gracefully83 taking their places at Nature’s family table for their daily bread. Happy birds!
The mockingbird is graceful84 in form and a fine singer, plainly dressed, rather familiar in habits, frequently coming like robins85 to door-sills for crumbs—a noble fellow, beloved by everybody. Wild geese are abundant in winter, associated with brant, some species of which I have never seen in the North. Also great flocks of robins, mourning doves, bluebirds, and the delightful brown thrashers. A large number of the smaller birds are fine singers. Crows, too, are here, some of them cawing with a foreign accent. The common bob-white quail86 I observed as far south as middle Georgia.
Lime Key, sketched87 on the opposite page, is a fair specimen of the Florida keys on this part of the coast. A fragment of cactus89, Opuntia, sketched on another page,[8] is from the above-named key, and is abundant there. The fruit, an inch in length, is gathered, and made into a sauce, of which some people are fond. This species forms thorny90, impenetrable thickets. One joint71 that I measured was fifteen inches long.
[8] Of the original journal.
Lime Key
Lime Key, Florida
The mainland of Florida is less salubrious than the islands, but no portion of this coast, nor of the flat border which sweeps from Maryland to Texas, is quite free from malaria45. All the inhabitants of this region, whether black or white, are liable to be prostrated91 by the ever-present fever and ague, to say nothing of the plagues of cholera92 and yellow fever that come and go suddenly like storms, prostrating93 the population and cutting gaps in it like hurricanes in woods.
The world, we are told, was made especially for man—a presumption94 not supported by all the facts. A numerous class of men are painfully astonished whenever they find anything, living or dead, in all God’s universe, which they cannot eat or render in some way what they call useful to themselves. They have precise dogmatic insight of the intentions of the Creator, and it is hardly possible to be guilty of irreverence95 in speaking of their God any more than of heathen idols96. He is regarded as a civilized97, law-abiding gentleman in favor either of a republican form of government or of a limited monarchy98; believes in the literature and language of England; is a warm supporter of the English constitution and Sunday schools and missionary99 societies; and is as purely100 a manufactured article as any puppet of a half-penny theater.
With such views of the Creator it is, of course, not surprising that erroneous views should be entertained of the creation. To such properly trimmed people, the sheep, for example, is an easy problem—food and clothing “for us,” eating grass and daisies white by divine appointment for this predestined purpose, on perceiving the demand for wool that would be occasioned by the eating of the apple in the Garden of Eden.
In the same pleasant plan, whales are store-houses of oil for us, to help out the stars in lighting101 our dark ways until the discovery of the Pennsylvania oil wells. Among plants, hemp102, to say nothing of the cereals, is a case of evident destination for ships’ rigging, wrapping packages, and hanging the wicked. Cotton is another other plain case of clothing. Iron was made for hammers and ploughs, and lead for bullets all intended for us. And so of other small handfuls of insignificant103 things.
But if we should ask these profound expositors of God’s intentions, How about those man-eating animals—lions, tigers, alligators—which smack104 their lips over raw man? Or about those myriads105 of noxious106 insects that destroy labor107 and drink his blood? Doubtless man was intended for food and drink for all these? Oh, no! Not at all! These are unresolvable difficulties connected with Eden’s apple and the Devil. Why does water drown its lord? Why do so many minerals poison him? Why are so many plants and fishes deadly enemies? Why is the lord of creation subjected to the same laws of life as his subjects? Oh, all these things are satanic, or in some way connected with the first garden.
Now, it never seems to occur to these far-seeing teachers that Nature’s object in making animals and plants might possibly be first of all the happiness of each one of them, not the creation of all for the happiness of one. Why should man value himself as more than a small part of the one great unit of creation? And what creature of all that the Lord has taken the pains to make is not essential to the completeness of that unit—the cosmos108? The universe would be incomplete without man; but it would also be incomplete without the smallest transmicroscopic creature that dwells beyond our conceitful eyes and knowledge.
From the dust of the earth, from the common elementary fund, the Creator has made Homo Sapiens. From the same material he has made every other creature, however noxious and insignificant to us. They are earth-born companions and our fellow mortals. The fearfully good, the orthodox, of this laborious109 patch-work of modern civilization cry “Heresy” on every one whose sympathies reach a single hair’s breadth beyond the boundary epidermis110 of our own species. Not content with taking all of earth, they also claim the celestial111 country as the only ones who possess the kind of souls for which that imponderable empire was planned.
This star, our own good earth, made many a successful journey around the heavens ere man was made, and whole kingdoms of creatures enjoyed existence and returned to dust ere man appeared to claim them. After human beings have also played their part in Creation’s plan, they too may disappear without any general burning or extraordinary commotion112 whatever.
Plants are credited with but dim and uncertain sensation, and minerals with positively113 none at all. But why may not even a mineral arrangement of matter be endowed with sensation of a kind that we in our blind exclusive perfection can have no manner of communication with?
But I have wandered from my object. I stated a page or two back that man claimed the earth was made for him, and I was going to say that venomous beasts, thorny plants, and deadly diseases of certain parts of the earth prove that the whole world was not made for him. When an animal from a tropical climate is taken to high latitudes114, it may perish of cold, and we say that such an animal was never intended for so severe a climate. But when man betakes himself to sickly parts of the tropics and perishes, he cannot see that he was never intended for such deadly climates. No, he will rather accuse the first mother of the cause of the difficulty, though she may never have seen a fever district; or will consider it a providential chastisement115 for some self-invented form of sin.
Furthermore, all uneatable and uncivilizable animals, and all plants which carry prickles, are deplorable evils which, according to closet researches of clergy116, require the cleansing117 chemistry of universal planetary combustion118. But more than aught else mankind requires burning, as being in great part wicked, and if that transmundane furnace can be so applied119 and regulated as to smelt120 and purify us into conformity121 with the rest of the terrestrial creation, then the tophetization of the erratic122 genus Homo were a consummation devoutly123 to be prayed for. But, glad to leave these ecclesiastical fires and blunders, I joyfully124 return to the immortal125 truth and immortal beauty of Nature.
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1
scent
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| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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conjured
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| 用魔术变出( conjure的过去式和过去分词 )； 祈求，恳求； 变戏法； （变魔术般地） 使…出现 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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tangle
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| n.纠缠；缠结；混乱；v.(使)缠绕；变乱 | |
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5
gulls
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| n.鸥( gull的名词复数 )v.欺骗某人( gull的第三人称单数 ) | |
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bass
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| n.男低音(歌手)；低音乐器；低音大提琴 | |
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7
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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rambles
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| （无目的地）漫游( ramble的第三人称单数 )； （喻）漫谈； 扯淡； 长篇大论 | |
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scorching
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| adj. 灼热的 | |
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stature
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| n.（高度）水平，（高度）境界，身高，身材 | |
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11
beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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12
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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13
speculative
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| adj.思索性的，暝想性的，推理的 | |
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strand
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| vt.使（船）搁浅，使（某人）困于（某地） | |
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burnished
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| adj.抛光的，光亮的v.擦亮（金属等），磨光( burnish的过去式和过去分词 )；被擦亮，磨光 | |
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Ford
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| n.浅滩，水浅可涉处；v.涉水，涉过 | |
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cedar
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| n.雪松，香柏(木) | |
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vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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alligator
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| n.短吻鳄(一种鳄鱼) | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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schooner
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| n.纵帆船 | |
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lumber
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| n.木材，木料；v.以破旧东西堆满；伐木；笨重移动 | |
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24
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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gems
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| growth； economy； management； and customer satisfaction 增长 | |
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bouquet
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| n.花束，酒香 | |
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bouquets
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| n.花束( bouquet的名词复数 )；（酒的）芳香 | |
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plank
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| n.板条，木板，政策要点，政纲条目 | |
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bunk
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| n.(车、船等倚壁而设的)铺位；废话 | |
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plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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numbness
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| n.无感觉，麻木，惊呆 | |
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unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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craved
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| 渴望，热望( crave的过去式 )； 恳求，请求 | |
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halfway
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| adj.中途的，不彻底的，部分的；adv.半路地，在中途，在半途 | |
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dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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40
delirious
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| adj.不省人事的，神智昏迷的 | |
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41
gasping
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| adj. 气喘的, 痉挛的 动词gasp的现在分词 | |
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throbbing
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| a. 跳动的,悸动的 | |
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43
intoxication
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| n.wild excitement;drunkenness；poisoning | |
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44
oblivious
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| adj.易忘的，遗忘的，忘却的，健忘的 | |
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45
malaria
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| n.疟疾 | |
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malarial
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| 患疟疾的，毒气的 | |
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47
consistency
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| n.一贯性，前后一致，稳定性；(液体的)浓度 | |
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48
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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49
glossy
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| adj.平滑的；有光泽的 | |
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50
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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51
tracts
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| 大片土地( tract的名词复数 )； 地带； （体内的）道； （尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的）短文 | |
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52
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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53
thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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54
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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55
sojourn
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| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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56
receding
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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57
wade
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| v.跋涉，涉水；n.跋涉 | |
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58
margins
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| 边( margin的名词复数 )； 利润； 页边空白； 差数 | |
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59
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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plunging
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| adj.跳进的，突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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creeks
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| n.小湾( creek的名词复数 )；小港；小河；小溪 | |
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sages
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| n.圣人( sage的名词复数 )；智者；哲人；鼠尾草（可用作调料） | |
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erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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hermits
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| （尤指早期基督教的）隐居修道士，隐士，遁世者( hermit的名词复数 ) | |
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shrouded
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| v.隐瞒( shroud的过去式和过去分词 )；保密 | |
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rigid
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| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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glide
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| n./v.溜，滑行；(时间)消逝 | |
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joints
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| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
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joint
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| adj.联合的，共同的；n.关节，接合处；v.连接，贴合 | |
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marrow
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| n.骨髓；精华；活力 | |
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smoothly
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| adv.平滑地，顺利地，流利地，流畅地 | |
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clump
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| n.树丛，草丛；vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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divers
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| adj.不同的；种种的 | |
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pelicans
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| n.鹈鹕( pelican的名词复数 ) | |
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foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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isles
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| 岛( isle的名词复数 ) | |
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winnowing
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| v.扬( winnow的现在分词 )；辨别；选择；除去 | |
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gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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85
robins
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| n.知更鸟，鸫( robin的名词复数 )；（签名者不分先后，以避免受责的）圆形签名抗议书（或请愿书） | |
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86
quail
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| n.鹌鹑；vi.畏惧，颤抖 | |
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sketched
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| v.草拟（sketch的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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cactus
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| n.仙人掌 | |
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thorny
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| adj.多刺的，棘手的 | |
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prostrated
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| v.使俯伏，使拜倒( prostrate的过去式和过去分词 )；（指疾病、天气等）使某人无能为力 | |
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cholera
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| n.霍乱 | |
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prostrating
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| v.使俯伏，使拜倒( prostrate的现在分词 )；（指疾病、天气等）使某人无能为力 | |
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presumption
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| n.推测，可能性，冒昧，放肆，[法律]推定 | |
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irreverence
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| n.不尊敬 | |
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idols
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| 偶像( idol的名词复数 )； 受崇拜的人或物； 受到热爱和崇拜的人或物； 神像 | |
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civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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monarchy
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| n.君主，最高统治者；君主政体，君主国 | |
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missionary
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| adj.教会的，传教(士)的；n.传教士 | |
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purely
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| adv.纯粹地，完全地 | |
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101
lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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102
hemp
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| n.大麻；纤维 | |
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103
insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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104
smack
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| vt.拍，打，掴；咂嘴；vi.含有…意味；n.拍 | |
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105
myriads
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| n.无数，极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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106
noxious
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| adj.有害的，有毒的；使道德败坏的，讨厌的 | |
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labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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108
cosmos
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| n.宇宙；秩序，和谐 | |
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109
laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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110
epidermis
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| n.表皮 | |
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111
celestial
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| adj.天体的；天上的 | |
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112
commotion
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| n.骚动，动乱 | |
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113
positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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114
latitudes
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| 纬度 | |
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115
chastisement
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| n.惩罚 | |
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116
clergy
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| n.[总称]牧师，神职人员 | |
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117
cleansing
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| n. 净化(垃圾) adj. 清洁用的 动词cleanse的现在分词 | |
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118
combustion
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| n.燃烧；氧化；骚动 | |
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119
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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120
smelt
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| v.熔解，熔炼；n.银白鱼，胡瓜鱼 | |
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121
conformity
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| n.一致，遵从，顺从 | |
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122
erratic
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| adj.古怪的，反复无常的，不稳定的 | |
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123
devoutly
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| adv.虔诚地，虔敬地，衷心地 | |
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124
joyfully
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| adv. 喜悦地, 高兴地 | |
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125
immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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