—Pudd’nhead Wilson’s New Calendar.
The next picture in my mind is Government House, on Malabar Point, with the wide sea-view from the windows and broad balconies; abode1 of His Excellency the Governor of the Bombay Presidency—a residence which is European in everything but the native guards and servants, and is a home and a palace of state harmoniously2 combined.
That was England, the English power, the English civilization, the modern civilization—with the quiet elegancies and quiet colors and quiet tastes and quiet dignity that are the outcome of the modern cultivation3. And following it came a picture of the ancient civilization of India—an hour in the mansion4 of a native prince: Kumar Schri Samatsinhji Bahadur of the Palitana State.
The young lad, his heir, was with the prince; also, the lad’s sister, a wee brown sprite, very pretty, very serious, very winning, delicately moulded, costumed like the daintiest butterfly, a dear little fairyland princess, gravely willing to be friendly with the strangers, but in the beginning preferring to hold her father’s hand until she could take stock of them and determine how far they were to be trusted. She must have been eight years old; so in the natural (Indian) order of things she would be a bride in three or four years from now, and then this free contact with the sun and the air and the other belongings5 of out-door nature and comradeship with visiting male folk would end, and she would shut herself up in the zenana for life, like her mother, and by inherited habit of mind would be happy in that seclusion6 and not look upon it as an irksome restraint and a weary captivity7.
The game which the prince amuses his leisure with—however, never mind it, I should never be able to describe it intelligibly8. I tried to get an idea of it while my wife and daughter visited the princess in the zenana, a lady of charming graces and a fluent speaker of English, but I did not make it out. It is a complicated game, and I believe it is said that nobody can learn to play it well—but an Indian. And I was not able to learn how to wind a turban. It seemed a simple art and easy; but that was a deception9. It is a piece of thin, delicate stuff a foot wide or more, and forty or fifty feet long; and the exhibitor of the art takes one end of it in his two hands, and winds it in and out intricately about his head, twisting it as he goes, and in a minute or two the thing is finished, and is neat and symmetrical and fits as snugly10 as a mould.
We were interested in the wardrobe and the jewels, and in the silverware, and its grace of shape and beauty and delicacy11 of ornamentation. The silverware is kept locked up, except at meal-times, and none but the chief butler and the prince have keys to the safe. I did not clearly understand why, but it was not for the protection of the silver. It was either to protect the prince from the contamination which his caste would suffer if the vessels12 were touched by low-caste hands, or it was to protect his highness from poison. Possibly it was both. I believe a salaried taster has to taste everything before the prince ventures it—an ancient and judicious13 custom in the East, and has thinned out the tasters a good deal, for of course it is the cook that puts the poison in. If I were an Indian prince I would not go to the expense of a taster, I would eat with the cook.
Ceremonials are always interesting; and I noted14 that the Indian good-morning is a ceremonial, whereas ours doesn’t amount to that. In salutation the son reverently15 touches the father’s forehead with a small silver implement16 tipped with vermillion paste which leaves a red spot there, and in return the son receives the father’s blessing17. Our good morning is well enough for the rowdy West, perhaps, but would be too brusque for the soft and ceremonious East.
After being properly necklaced, according to custom, with great garlands made of yellow flowers, and provided with betel-nut to chew, this pleasant visit closed, and we passed thence to a scene of a different sort: from this glow of color and this sunny life to those grim receptacles of the Parsee dead, the Towers of Silence. There is something stately about that name, and an impressiveness which sinks deep; the hush19 of death is in it. We have the Grave, the Tomb, the Mausoleum, God’s Acre, the Cemetery20; and association has made them eloquent21 with solemn meaning; but we have no name that is so majestic22 as that one, or lingers upon the ear with such deep and haunting pathos23.
On lofty ground, in the midst of a paradise of tropical foliage24 and flowers, remote from the world and its turmoil25 and noise, they stood—the Towers of Silence; and away below was spread the wide groves26 of cocoa palms, then the city, mile on mile, then the ocean with its fleets of creeping ships all steeped in a stillness as deep as the hush that hallowed this high place of the dead. The vultures were there. They stood close together in a great circle all around the rim18 of a massive low tower—waiting; stood as motionless as sculptured ornaments27, and indeed almost deceived one into the belief that that was what they were. Presently there was a slight stir among the score of persons present, and all moved reverently out of the path and ceased from talking. A funeral procession entered the great gate, marching two and two, and moved silently by, toward the Tower. The corpse28 lay in a shallow shell, and was under cover of a white cloth, but was otherwise naked. The bearers of the body were separated by an interval29 of thirty feet from the mourners. They, and also the mourners, were draped all in pure white, and each couple of mourners was figuratively bound together by a piece of white rope or a handkerchief—though they merely held the ends of it in their hands. Behind the procession followed a dog, which was led in a leash30. When the mourners had reached the neighborhood of the Tower—neither they nor any other human being but the bearers of the dead must approach within thirty feet of it—they turned and went back to one of the prayer-houses within the gates, to pray for the spirit of their dead. The bearers unlocked the Tower’s sole door and disappeared from view within. In a little while they came out bringing the bier and the white covering-cloth, and locked the door again. Then the ring of vultures rose, flapping their wings, and swooped31 down into the Tower to devour32 the body. Nothing was left of it but a clean-picked skeleton when they flocked-out again a few minutes afterward33.
The principle which underlies34 and orders everything connected with a Parsee funeral is Purity. By the tenets of the Zoroastrian religion, the elements, Earth, Fire, and Water, are sacred, and must not be contaminated by contact with a dead body. Hence corpses35 must not be burned, neither must they be buried. None may touch the dead or enter the Towers where they repose36 except certain men who are officially appointed for that purpose. They receive high pay, but theirs is a dismal37 life, for they must live apart from their species, because their commerce with the dead defiles38 them, and any who should associate with them would share their defilement39. When they come out of the Tower the clothes they are wearing are exchanged for others, in a building within the grounds, and the ones which they have taken off are left behind, for they are contaminated, and must never be used again or suffered to go outside the grounds. These bearers come to every funeral in new garments. So far as is known, no human being, other than an official corpse-bearer—save one—has ever entered a Tower of Silence after its consecration40. Just a hundred years ago a European rushed in behind the bearers and fed his brutal41 curiosity with a glimpse of the forbidden mysteries of the place. This shabby savage’s name is not given; his quality is also concealed42. These two details, taken in connection with the fact that for his extraordinary offense43 the only punishment he got from the East India Company’s Government was a solemn official “reprimand”—suggest the suspicion that he was a European of consequence. The same public document which contained the reprimand gave warning that future offenders44 of his sort, if in the Company’s service, would be dismissed; and if merchants, suffer revocation45 of license46 and exile to England.
The Towers are not tall, but are low in proportion to their circumference47, like a gasometer. If you should fill a gasometer half way up with solid granite48 masonry49, then drive a wide and deep well down through the center of this mass of masonry, you would have the idea of a Tower of Silence. On the masonry surrounding the well the bodies lie, in shallow trenches50 which radiate like wheel-spokes from the well. The trenches slant51 toward the well and carry into it the rainfall. Underground drains, with charcoal52 filters in them, carry off this water from the bottom of the well.
When a skeleton has lain in the Tower exposed to the rain and the flaming sun a month it is perfectly53 dry and clean. Then the same bearers that brought it there come gloved and take it up with tongs54 and throw it into the well. There it turns to dust. It is never seen again, never touched again, in the world. Other peoples separate their dead, and preserve and continue social distinctions in the grave—the skeletons of kings and statesmen and generals in temples and pantheons proper to skeletons of their degree, and the skeletons of the commonplace and the poor in places suited to their meaner estate; but the Parsees hold that all men rank alike in death—all are humble55, all poor, all destitute56. In sign of their poverty they are sent to their grave naked, in sign of their equality the bones of the rich, the poor, the illustrious and the obscure are flung into the common well together. At a Parsee funeral there are no vehicles; all concerned must walk, both rich and poor, howsoever great the distance to be traversed may be. In the wells of the Five Towers of Silence is mingled57 the dust of all the Parsee men and women and children who have died in Bombay and its vicinity during the two centuries which have elapsed since the Mohammedan conquerors58 drove the Parsees out of Persia, and into that region of India. The earliest of the five towers was built by the Modi family something more than 200 years ago, and it is now reserved to the heirs of that house; none but the dead of that blood are carried thither59.
The origin of at least one of the details of a Parsee funeral is not now known—the presence of the dog. Before a corpse is borne from the house of mourning it must be uncovered and exposed to the gaze of a dog; a dog must also be led in the rear of the funeral. Mr. Nusserwanjee Byramjee, Secretary to the Parsee Punchayet, said that these formalities had once had a meaning and a reason for their institution, but that they were survivals whose origin none could now account for. Custom and tradition continue them in force, antiquity60 hallows them. It is thought that in ancient times in Persia the dog was a sacred animal and could guide souls to heaven; also that his eye had the power of purifying objects which had been contaminated by the touch of the dead; and that hence his presence with the funeral cortege provides an ever-applicable remedy in case of need.
The Parsees claim that their method of disposing of the dead is an effective protection of the living; that it disseminates61 no corruption62, no impurities63 of any sort, no disease-germs; that no wrap, no garment which has touched the dead is allowed to touch the living afterward; that from the Towers of Silence nothing proceeds which can carry harm to the outside world. These are just claims, I think. As a sanitary64 measure, their system seems to be about the equivalent of cremation65, and as sure. We are drifting slowly—but hopefully—toward cremation in these days. It could not be expected that this progress should be swift, but if it be steady and continuous, even if slow, that will suffice. When cremation becomes the rule we shall cease to shudder66 at it; we should shudder at burial if we allowed ourselves to think what goes on in the grave.
The dog was an impressive figure to me, representing as he did a mystery whose key is lost. He was humble, and apparently67 depressed68; and he let his head droop69 pensively70, and looked as if he might be trying to call back to his mind what it was that he had used to symbolize71 ages ago when he began his function. There was another impressive thing close at hand, but I was not privileged to see it. That was the sacred fire—a fire which is supposed to have been burning without interruption for more than two centuries; and so, living by the same heat that was imparted to it so long ago.
The Parsees are a remarkable72 community. There are only about 60,000 in Bombay, and only about half as many as that in the rest of India; but they make up in importance what they lack in numbers. They are highly educated, energetic, enterprising, progressive, rich, and the Jew himself is not more lavish73 or catholic in his charities and benevolences. The Parsees build and endow hospitals, for both men and animals; and they and their womenkind keep an open purse for all great and good objects. They are a political force, and a valued support to the government. They have a pure and lofty religion, and they preserve it in its integrity and order their lives by it.
We took a final sweep of the wonderful view of plain and city and ocean, and so ended our visit to the garden and the Towers of Silence; and the last thing I noticed was another symbol—a voluntary symbol this one; it was a vulture standing74 on the sawed-off top of a tall and slender and branchless palm in an open space in the ground; he was perfectly motionless, and looked like a piece of sculpture on a pillar. And he had a mortuary look, too, which was in keeping with the place.
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1 abode | |
n.住处,住所 | |
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2 harmoniously | |
和谐地,调和地 | |
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3 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
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4 mansion | |
n.大厦,大楼;宅第 | |
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5 belongings | |
n.私人物品,私人财物 | |
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6 seclusion | |
n.隐遁,隔离 | |
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7 captivity | |
n.囚禁;被俘;束缚 | |
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8 intelligibly | |
adv.可理解地,明了地,清晰地 | |
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9 deception | |
n.欺骗,欺诈;骗局,诡计 | |
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10 snugly | |
adv.紧贴地;贴身地;暖和舒适地;安适地 | |
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11 delicacy | |
n.精致,细微,微妙,精良;美味,佳肴 | |
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12 vessels | |
n.血管( vessel的名词复数 );船;容器;(具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的)人 | |
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13 judicious | |
adj.明智的,明断的,能作出明智决定的 | |
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14 noted | |
adj.著名的,知名的 | |
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15 reverently | |
adv.虔诚地 | |
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16 implement | |
n.(pl.)工具,器具;vt.实行,实施,执行 | |
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17 blessing | |
n.祈神赐福;祷告;祝福,祝愿 | |
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18 rim | |
n.(圆物的)边,轮缘;边界 | |
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19 hush | |
int.嘘,别出声;n.沉默,静寂;v.使安静 | |
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20 cemetery | |
n.坟墓,墓地,坟场 | |
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21 eloquent | |
adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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22 majestic | |
adj.雄伟的,壮丽的,庄严的,威严的,崇高的 | |
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23 pathos | |
n.哀婉,悲怆 | |
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24 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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25 turmoil | |
n.骚乱,混乱,动乱 | |
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26 groves | |
树丛,小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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27 ornaments | |
n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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28 corpse | |
n.尸体,死尸 | |
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29 interval | |
n.间隔,间距;幕间休息,中场休息 | |
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30 leash | |
n.牵狗的皮带,束缚;v.用皮带系住 | |
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31 swooped | |
俯冲,猛冲( swoop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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32 devour | |
v.吞没;贪婪地注视或谛听,贪读;使着迷 | |
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33 afterward | |
adv.后来;以后 | |
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34 underlies | |
v.位于或存在于(某物)之下( underlie的第三人称单数 );构成…的基础(或起因),引起 | |
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35 corpses | |
n.死尸,尸体( corpse的名词复数 ) | |
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36 repose | |
v.(使)休息;n.安息 | |
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37 dismal | |
adj.阴沉的,凄凉的,令人忧郁的,差劲的 | |
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38 defiles | |
v.玷污( defile的第三人称单数 );污染;弄脏;纵列行进 | |
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39 defilement | |
n.弄脏,污辱,污秽 | |
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40 consecration | |
n.供献,奉献,献祭仪式 | |
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41 brutal | |
adj.残忍的,野蛮的,不讲理的 | |
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42 concealed | |
a.隐藏的,隐蔽的 | |
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43 offense | |
n.犯规,违法行为;冒犯,得罪 | |
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44 offenders | |
n.冒犯者( offender的名词复数 );犯规者;罪犯;妨害…的人(或事物) | |
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45 revocation | |
n.废止,撤回 | |
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46 license | |
n.执照,许可证,特许;v.许可,特许 | |
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47 circumference | |
n.圆周,周长,圆周线 | |
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48 granite | |
adj.花岗岩,花岗石 | |
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49 masonry | |
n.砖土建筑;砖石 | |
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50 trenches | |
深沟,地沟( trench的名词复数 ); 战壕 | |
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51 slant | |
v.倾斜,倾向性地编写或报道;n.斜面,倾向 | |
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52 charcoal | |
n.炭,木炭,生物炭 | |
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53 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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54 tongs | |
n.钳;夹子 | |
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55 humble | |
adj.谦卑的,恭顺的;地位低下的;v.降低,贬低 | |
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56 destitute | |
adj.缺乏的;穷困的 | |
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57 mingled | |
混合,混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 ); 混进,与…交往[联系] | |
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58 conquerors | |
征服者,占领者( conqueror的名词复数 ) | |
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59 thither | |
adv.向那里;adj.在那边的,对岸的 | |
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60 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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61 disseminates | |
散布,传播( disseminate的第三人称单数 ) | |
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62 corruption | |
n.腐败,堕落,贪污 | |
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63 impurities | |
不纯( impurity的名词复数 ); 不洁; 淫秽; 杂质 | |
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64 sanitary | |
adj.卫生方面的,卫生的,清洁的,卫生的 | |
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65 cremation | |
n.火葬,火化 | |
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66 shudder | |
v.战粟,震动,剧烈地摇晃;n.战粟,抖动 | |
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67 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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68 depressed | |
adj.沮丧的,抑郁的,不景气的,萧条的 | |
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69 droop | |
v.低垂,下垂;凋萎,萎靡 | |
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70 pensively | |
adv.沉思地,焦虑地 | |
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71 symbolize | |
vt.作为...的象征,用符号代表 | |
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72 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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73 lavish | |
adj.无节制的;浪费的;vt.慷慨地给予,挥霍 | |
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74 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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