What is a glacier? It is easy to say it looks like a frozen river which occupies the bed of a winding3 gorge4 or gully between mountains. But that gives no notion of its vastness. For it is sometimes six hundred feet thick, and we are not accustomed to rivers six hundred feet deep; no, our rivers are six feet, twenty feet, and sometimes fifty feet deep; we are not quite able to grasp so large a fact as an ice-river six hundred feet deep.
The glacier’s surface is not smooth and level, but has deep swales and swelling5 elevations6, and sometimes has the look of a tossing sea whose turbulent billows were frozen hard in the instant of their most violent motion; the glacier’s surface is not a flawless mass, but is a river with cracks or crevices7, some narrow, some gaping9 wide. Many a man, the victim of a slip or a misstep, has plunged10 down one of these and met his death. Men have been fished out of them alive; but it was when they did not go to a great depth; the cold of the great depths would quickly stupefy a man, whether he was hurt or unhurt. These cracks do not go straight down; one can seldom see more than twenty to forty feet down them; consequently men who have disappeared in them have been sought for, in the hope that they had stopped within helping11 distance, whereas their case, in most instances, had really been hopeless from the beginning.
In 1864 a party of tourists was descending12 Mont Blanc, and while picking their way over one of the mighty13 glaciers of that lofty region, roped together, as was proper, a young porter disengaged himself from the line and started across an ice-bridge which spanned a crevice8. It broke under him with a crash, and he disappeared. The others could not see how deep he had gone, so it might be worthwhile to try and rescue him. A brave young guide named Michel Payot volunteered.
Two ropes were made fast to his leather belt and he bore the end of a third one in his hand to tie to the victim in case he found him. He was lowered into the crevice, he descended15 deeper and deeper between the clear blue walls of solid ice, he approached a bend in the crack and disappeared under it. Down, and still down, he went, into this profound grave; when he had reached a depth of eighty feet he passed under another bend in the crack, and thence descended eighty feet lower, as between perpendicular16 precipices17. Arrived at this stage of one hundred and sixty feet below the surface of the glacier, he peered through the twilight18 dimness and perceived that the chasm19 took another turn and stretched away at a steep slant20 to unknown deeps, for its course was lost in darkness. What a place that was to be in—especially if that leather belt should break! The compression of the belt threatened to suffocate21 the intrepid22 fellow; he called to his friends to draw him up, but could not make them hear. They still lowered him, deeper and deeper. Then he jerked his third cord as vigorously as he could; his friends understood, and dragged him out of those icy jaws24 of death.
Then they attached a bottle to a cord and sent it down two hundred feet, but it found no bottom. It came up covered with congelations—evidence enough that even if the poor porter reached the bottom with unbroken bones, a swift death from cold was sure, anyway.
A glacier is a stupendous, ever-progressing, resistless plow25. It pushes ahead of it masses of boulders26 which are packed together, and they stretch across the gorge, right in front of it, like a long grave or a long, sharp roof. This is called a moraine. It also shoves out a moraine along each side of its course.
Imposing27 as the modern glaciers are, they are not so huge as were some that once existed. For instance, Mr. Whymper says:
“At some very remote period the Valley of Aosta was occupied by a vast glacier, which flowed down its entire length from Mont Blanc to the plain of Piedmont, remained stationary28, or nearly so, at its mouth for many centuries, and deposited there enormous masses of debris29. The length of this glacier exceeded eighty miles, and it drained a basin twenty-five to thirty-five miles across, bounded by the highest mountains in the Alps.
“The great peaks rose several thousand feet above the glaciers, and then, as now, shattered by sun and frost, poured down their showers of rocks and stones, in witness of which there are the immense piles of angular fragments that constitute the moraines of Ivrea.
“The moraines around Ivrea are of extraordinary dimensions. That which was on the left bank of the glacier is about thirteen miles long, and in some places rises to a height of two thousand one hundred and thirty feet above the floor of the valley! The terminal moraines (those which are pushed in front of the glaciers) cover something like twenty square miles of country. At the mouth of the Valley of Aosta, the thickness of the glacier must have been at least two thousand feet, and its width, at that part, five miles and a quarter.”
It is not easy to get at a comprehension of a mass of ice like that. If one could cleave30 off the butt31 end of such a glacier—an oblong block two or three miles wide by five and a quarter long and two thousand feet thick—he could completely hide the city of New York under it, and Trinity steeple would only stick up into it relatively32 as far as a shingle-nail would stick up into the bottom of a Saratoga trunk.
“The boulders from Mont Blanc, upon the plain below Ivrea, assure us that the glacier which transported them existed for a prodigious33 length of time. Their present distance from the cliffs from which they were derived34 is about 420,000 feet, and if we assume that they traveled at the rate of 400 feet per annum, their journey must have occupied them no less than 1,055 years! In all probability they did not travel so fast."
Glaciers are sometimes hurried out of their characteristic snail-pace. A marvelous spectacle is presented then. Mr. Whymper refers to a case which occurred in Iceland in 1721:
“It seems that in the neighborhood of the mountain Kotlugja, large bodies of water formed underneath35, or within the glaciers (either on account of the interior heat of the earth, or from other causes), and at length acquired irresistible36 power, tore the glaciers from their mooring37 on the land, and swept them over every obstacle into the sea. Prodigious masses of ice were thus borne for a distance of about ten miles over land in the space of a few hours; and their bulk was so enormous that they covered the sea for seven miles from the shore, and remained aground in six hundred feet of water! The denudation38 of the land was upon a grand scale. All superficial accumulations were swept away, and the bedrock was exposed. It was described, in graphic39 language, how all irregularities and depressions were obliterated40, and a smooth surface of several miles’ area laid bare, and that this area had the appearance of having been planed by a plane.”
The account translated from the Icelandic says that the mountainlike ruins of this majestic41 glacier so covered the sea that as far as the eye could reach no open water was discoverable, even from the highest peaks. A monster wall or barrier of ice was built across a considerable stretch of land, too, by this strange irruption:
“One can form some idea of the altitude of this barrier of ice when it is mentioned that from Hofdabrekka farm, which lies high up on a fjeld, one could not see Hjorleifshofdi opposite, which is a fell six hundred and forty feet in height; but in order to do so had to clamber up a mountain slope east of Hofdabrekka twelve hundred feet high.”
These things will help the reader to understand why it is that a man who keeps company with glaciers comes to feel tolerably insignificant42 by and by. The Alps and the glaciers together are able to take every bit of conceit43 out of a man and reduce his self-importance to zero if he will only remain within the influence of their sublime44 presence long enough to give it a fair and reasonable chance to do its work.
The Alpine45 glaciers move—that is granted, now, by everybody. But there was a time when people scoffed46 at the idea; they said you might as well expect leagues of solid rock to crawl along the ground as expect leagues of ice to do it. But proof after proof was furnished, and the finally the world had to believe.
The wise men not only said the glacier moved, but they timed its movement. They ciphered out a glacier’s gait, and then said confidently that it would travel just so far in so many years. There is record of a striking and curious example of the accuracy which may be attained47 in these reckonings.
In 1820 the ascent48 of Mont Blanc was attempted by a Russian and two Englishmen, with seven guides. They had reached a prodigious altitude, and were approaching the summit, when an avalanche49 swept several of the party down a sharp slope of two hundred feet and hurled50 five of them (all guides) into one of the crevices of a glacier. The life of one of the five was saved by a long barometer51 which was strapped52 to his back—it bridged the crevice and suspended him until help came. The alpenstock or baton53 of another saved its owner in a similar way. Three men were lost—Pierre Balmat, Pierre Carrier, and Auguste Tairraz. They had been hurled down into the fathomless54 great deeps of the crevice.
Dr. Forbes, the English geologist55, had made frequent visits to the Mont Blanc region, and had given much attention to the disputed question of the movement of glaciers. During one of these visits he completed his estimates of the rate of movement of the glacier which had swallowed up the three guides, and uttered the prediction that the glacier would deliver up its dead at the foot of the mountain thirty-five years from the time of the accident, or possibly forty.
A dull, slow journey—a movement imperceptible to any eye—but it was proceeding56, nevertheless, and without cessation. It was a journey which a rolling stone would make in a few seconds—the lofty point of departure was visible from the village below in the valley.
The prediction cut curiously57 close to the truth; forty-one years after the catastrophe58, the remains59 were cast forth60 at the foot of the glacier.
I find an interesting account of the matter in the Histoire Du Mont Blanc, by Stephen d’Arve. I will condense this account, as follows:
On the 12th of August, 1861, at the hour of the close of mass, a guide arrived out of breath at the mairie of Chamonix, and bearing on his shoulders a very lugubrious61 burden. It was a sack filled with human remains which he had gathered from the orifice of a crevice in the Glacier des Bossons. He conjectured62 that these were remains of the victims of the catastrophe of 1820, and a minute inquest, immediately instituted by the local authorities, soon demonstrated the correctness of his supposition. The contents of the sack were spread upon a long table, and officially inventoried63, as follows:
Portions of three human skulls64. Several tufts of black and blonde hair. A human jaw23, furnished with fine white teeth. A forearm and hand, all the fingers of the latter intact. The flesh was white and fresh, and both the arm and hand preserved a degree of flexibility66 in the articulations.
The ring-finger had suffered a slight abrasion67, and the stain of the blood was still visible and unchanged after forty-one years. A left foot, the flesh white and fresh.
Along with these fragments were portions of waistcoats, hats, hobnailed shoes, and other clothing; a wing of a pigeon, with black feathers; a fragment of an alpenstock; a tin lantern; and lastly, a boiled leg of mutton, the only flesh among all the remains that exhaled68 an unpleasant odor. The guide said that the mutton had no odor when he took it from the glacier; an hour’s exposure to the sun had already begun the work of decomposition69 upon it.
Persons were called for, to identify these poor pathetic relics70, and a touching71 scene ensued. Two men were still living who had witnessed the grim catastrophe of nearly half a century before—Marie Couttet (saved by his baton) and Julien Davouassoux (saved by the barometer). These aged14 men entered and approached the table. Davouassoux, more than eighty years old, contemplated72 the mournful remains mutely and with a vacant eye, for his intelligence and his memory were torpid73 with age; but Couttet’s faculties74 were still perfect at seventy-two, and he exhibited strong emotion. He said:
“Pierre Balmat was fair; he wore a straw hat. This bit of skull65, with the tuft of blond hair, was his; this is his hat. Pierre Carrier was very dark; this skull was his, and this felt hat. This is Balmat’s hand, I remember it so well!” and the old man bent75 down and kissed it reverently76, then closed his fingers upon it in an affectionate grasp, crying out, “I could never have dared to believe that before quitting this world it would be granted me to press once more the hand of one of those brave comrades, the hand of my good friend Balmat."
There is something weirdly77 pathetic about the picture of that white-haired veteran greeting with his loving handshake this friend who had been dead forty years. When these hands had met last, they were alike in the softness and freshness of youth; now, one was brown and wrinkled and horny with age, while the other was still as young and fair and blemishless as if those forty years had come and gone in a single moment, leaving no mark of their passage. Time had gone on, in the one case; it had stood still in the other. A man who has not seen a friend for a generation, keeps him in mind always as he saw him last, and is somehow surprised, and is also shocked, to see the aging change the years have wrought78 when he sees him again. Marie Couttet’s experience, in finding his friend’s hand unaltered from the image of it which he had carried in his memory for forty years, is an experience which stands alone in the history of man, perhaps.
Couttet identified other relics:
“This hat belonged to Auguste Tairraz. He carried the cage of pigeons which we proposed to set free upon the summit. Here is the wing of one of those pigeons. And here is the fragment of my broken baton; it was by grace of that baton that my life was saved. Who could have told me that I should one day have the satisfaction to look again upon this bit of wood that supported me above the grave that swallowed up my unfortunate companions!”
No portions of the body of Tairraz, other than a piece of the skull, had been found. A diligent79 search was made, but without result. However, another search was instituted a year later, and this had better success. Many fragments of clothing which had belonged to the lost guides were discovered; also, part of a lantern, and a green veil with blood-stains on it. But the interesting feature was this:
One of the searchers came suddenly upon a sleeved arm projecting from a crevice in the ice-wall, with the hand outstretched as if offering greeting! “The nails of this white hand were still rosy80, and the pose of the extended fingers seemed to express an eloquent81 welcome to the long-lost light of day.”
The hand and arm were alone; there was no trunk. After being removed from the ice the flesh-tints quickly faded out and the rosy nails took on the alabaster82 hue83 of death. This was the third right hand found; therefore, all three of the lost men were accounted for, beyond cavil84 or question.
Dr. Hamel was the Russian gentleman of the party which made the ascent at the time of the famous disaster. He left Chamonix as soon as he conveniently could after the descent; and as he had shown a chilly85 indifference86 about the calamity87, and offered neither sympathy nor assistance to the widows and orphans88, he carried with him the cordial execrations of the whole community. Four months before the first remains were found, a Chamonix guide named Balmat—a relative of one of the lost men—was in London, and one day encountered a hale old gentleman in the British Museum, who said:
“I overheard your name. Are you from Chamonix, Monsieur Balmat?”
“Yes, sir.”
“Haven’t they found the bodies of my three guides, yet? I am Dr. Hamel.”
“Alas, no, monsieur.”
“Well, you’ll find them, sooner or later.”
“Yes, it is the opinion of Dr. Forbes and Mr. Tyndall, that the glacier will sooner or later restore to us the remains of the unfortunate victims.”
“Without a doubt, without a doubt. And it will be a great thing for Chamonix, in the matter of attracting tourists. You can get up a museum with those remains that will draw!”
This savage89 idea has not improved the odor of Dr. Hamel’s name in Chamonix by any means. But after all, the man was sound on human nature. His idea was conveyed to the public officials of Chamonix, and they gravely discussed it around the official council-table. They were only prevented from carrying it into execution by the determined90 opposition91 of the friends and descendants of the lost guides, who insisted on giving the remains Christian92 burial, and succeeded in their purpose.
A close watch had to be kept upon all the poor remnants and fragments, to prevent embezzlement93. A few accessory odds94 and ends were sold. Rags and scraps95 of the coarse clothing were parted with at the rate equal to about twenty dollars a yard; a piece of a lantern and one or two other trifles brought nearly their weight in gold; and an Englishman offered a pound sterling96 for a single breeches-button.
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1
glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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glaciers
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| 冰河，冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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elevations
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| （水平或数量）提高( elevation的名词复数 )； 高地； 海拔； 提升 | |
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crevices
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| n.（尤指岩石的）裂缝，缺口( crevice的名词复数 ) | |
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crevice
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| n.(岩石、墙等)裂缝；缺口 | |
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gaping
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| adj.口的；张口的；敞口的；多洞穴的v.目瞪口呆地凝视( gape的现在分词 )；张开，张大 | |
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10
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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perpendicular
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| adj.垂直的，直立的；n.垂直线，垂直的位置 | |
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precipices
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| n.悬崖，峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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chasm
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| n.深坑，断层，裂口，大分岐，利害冲突 | |
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slant
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| v.倾斜，倾向性地编写或报道；n.斜面，倾向 | |
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suffocate
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| vt.使窒息，使缺氧，阻碍；vi.窒息，窒息而亡，阻碍发展 | |
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intrepid
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| adj.无畏的，刚毅的 | |
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jaw
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| n.颚，颌，说教，流言蜚语；v.喋喋不休，教训 | |
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jaws
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| n.口部；嘴 | |
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plow
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| n.犁，耕地，犁过的地；v.犁，费力地前进[英]plough | |
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boulders
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| n.卵石( boulder的名词复数 )；巨砾；（受水或天气侵蚀而成的）巨石；漂砾 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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stationary
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| adj.固定的，静止不动的 | |
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debris
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| n.瓦砾堆，废墟，碎片 | |
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cleave
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| v．(clave；cleaved)粘着，粘住；坚持；依恋 | |
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butt
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| n.笑柄；烟蒂；枪托；臀部；v.用头撞或顶 | |
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relatively
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| adv.比较...地，相对地 | |
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prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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irresistible
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| adj.非常诱人的，无法拒绝的，无法抗拒的 | |
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mooring
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| n.停泊处；系泊用具，系船具；下锚v.停泊，系泊（船只）(moor的现在分词) | |
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denudation
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| n.剥下；裸露；滥伐；剥蚀 | |
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graphic
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| adj.生动的，形象的，绘画的，文字的，图表的 | |
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obliterated
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| v.除去( obliterate的过去式和过去分词 )；涂去；擦掉；彻底破坏或毁灭 | |
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majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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insignificant
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| adj.无关紧要的，可忽略的，无意义的 | |
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conceit
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| n.自负，自高自大 | |
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sublime
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| adj.崇高的，伟大的；极度的，不顾后果的 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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scoffed
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| 嘲笑，嘲弄( scoff的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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48
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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avalanche
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| n.雪崩，大量涌来 | |
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hurled
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| v.猛投，用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 )；大声叫骂 | |
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barometer
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| n.气压表，睛雨表，反应指标 | |
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strapped
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| adj.用皮带捆住的，用皮带装饰的；身无分文的；缺钱；手头紧v.用皮带捆扎(strap的过去式和过去分词)；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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baton
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| n.乐队用指挥杖 | |
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fathomless
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| a.深不可测的 | |
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geologist
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| n.地质学家 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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catastrophe
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| n.大灾难，大祸 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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lugubrious
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| adj.悲哀的，忧郁的 | |
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conjectured
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| 推测，猜测，猜想( conjecture的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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inventoried
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| vt.编制…的目录（inventory的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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skulls
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| 颅骨( skull的名词复数 )； 脑袋； 脑子； 脑瓜 | |
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skull
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| n.头骨；颅骨 | |
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flexibility
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| n.柔韧性，弹性，（光的）折射性，灵活性 | |
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abrasion
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| n.磨（擦）破，表面磨损 | |
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exhaled
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| v.呼出，发散出( exhale的过去式和过去分词 )；吐出（肺中的空气、烟等），呼气 | |
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decomposition
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| n. 分解, 腐烂, 崩溃 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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contemplated
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| adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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torpid
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| adj.麻痹的，麻木的，迟钝的 | |
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faculties
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| n.能力( faculty的名词复数 )；全体教职员；技巧；院 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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reverently
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| adv.虔诚地 | |
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weirdly
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| 古怪地 | |
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wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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diligent
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| adj.勤勉的，勤奋的 | |
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rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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eloquent
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| adj.雄辩的，口才流利的；明白显示出的 | |
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alabaster
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| adj.雪白的；n.雪花石膏；条纹大理石 | |
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hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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cavil
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| v.挑毛病，吹毛求疵 | |
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chilly
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| adj.凉快的，寒冷的 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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calamity
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| n.灾害，祸患，不幸事件 | |
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orphans
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| 孤儿( orphan的名词复数 ) | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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opposition
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| n.反对，敌对 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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embezzlement
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| n.盗用，贪污 | |
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odds
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| n.让步，机率，可能性，比率；胜败优劣之别 | |
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scraps
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| 油渣 | |
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sterling
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| adj.英币的(纯粹的，货真价实的)；n.英国货币(英镑) | |
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