The story of the first attempt to climb the mountain in 1922 will have no doubts on one point. The final camp was too low. However strong a party may be brought to the assault, their aim, unless they are provided with oxygen, must be to establish a camp considerably5 higher than our camp at 25,000 feet. The whole performance of the porters encourages us to believe that this can be done. Some of them went to a height of 25,000 feet and more, not once only, 288but thrice; and they accomplished6 this feat7 with strength to spare. It is reasonable to suppose that these same men, or others of their type, could carry loads up to 27,000 feet. But it would be equally unreasonable8 to suppose that they could reach this height in one day from the camp on Chang La at 23,000 feet. No one would be so foolish as to organise9 an attempt on this assumption. Two camps instead of one must be placed above the Chang La; another stage must be added to the structure before the climbing party sets forth10 to reach the summit.
But how exactly is this to be done? It is to this question that one would wish to deduce an answer from the experience of 1922. It is very unlikely that any future party will find itself in the position to carry out any ideal plan of organisation11. Ideally, they ought to start by considering what previous performances might help or hinder the aim of bringing the party of attack in the fittest possible condition to the last camp. What ought they to have done or not to have done, having regard to acclimatisation? It is still impossible to lay down the law on this head. After the first Expedition, I supposed that the limit of acclimatisation must be somewhere about 21,000 feet. It now seems probable that it is higher. One of the physiologists12 who has been most deeply concerned with this problem of acclimatisation considers that it would probably be desirable, from the physiological13 point of view, to stay four or five days at 25,000 feet before proceeding14 to attempt the two last stages on consecutive15 days. Those of us who slept at Camp V for 289the first attempt would certainly be agreed in our attitude towards this counsel. The desire to continue the advance and spend another night at a higher elevation16, if it persisted at all for so long a time at 25,000 feet, would be chilled to tepidity17, and the increasing desire to get away from Camp V might lead to retreat instead of advance. The conditions must be altogether more comfortable if the climbers are to derive18 any advantage from their rustication19 at this altitude. It would not be impossible, perhaps, if every effort were concentrated on this end, to make a happy home where the aspiring20 mountaineers might pass a long week-end in enjoyment21 of the simplest life at 25,000 feet; it would not be practicable, having regard to other ends to be served by the system of transport. But it might be well to spend a similar period for acclimatisation 2,000 feet lower on the Chang La. There a very comfortable camp, with perfect shelter from the prevailing22 wind and good snow to lie on, can easily be established. Noel actually spent three successive nights there in 1922, and apparently23 was the better rather than the worse for the experience.
No less important in this connection is the effect of exertions24 at high altitudes on a man’s subsequent performance. We have to take into account the condition of the climbing parties when they returned to the Base Camp after reaching approximately 27,000 feet. With one exception, all the climbers were affected26 in various degrees by their exertions, to the prejudice of future efforts. It would seem, therefore, that they cannot have had much strength to 290spare for the final stage to the summit. But there was a general agreement among the climbers that it was not so much the normal exertion25 of climbing upwards27 that was in itself unduly28 exhausting, but the addition of anything that might be considered abnormal, such as cutting steps, contending with wind, pushing on for a particular reason at a faster pace, and the many little things that had to be done in camp. It is difficult from a normal elevation to appreciate how great is the difference between establishing a camp on the one hand and merely ascending29 to one already established on the other. If ever it proves possible to organise an advanced party whose business it would be to establish at 25,000 feet a much more comfortable camp than ours in 1922, and if, in addition, a man could be spared to undertake the preparation of meals, the climbers detailed30 for the highest section of all would both be spared a considerable fatigue31 and would have a better chance of real rest and sleep.
The peculiar32 dangers of climbing at great altitudes were illustrated33 by the experience of 1922. The difficulty of maintaining the standard of sound and accurate mountaineering among a party all more or less affected by the conditions, and the delays and misfortunes that may arise from the exhaustion34 of one of the party, are dangers which might be minimised by a supporting party. Two men remaining at the final camp and two men near Camp V watching the progress of the unit of assault along the final ridge35, and prepared to come to their assistance, might serve to produce 291vital stimulants36, hot tea or merely water, at the critical moment, and to protect the descent. It is a counsel of perfection to suggest providing against contingencies37 on this lavish38 scale; but it is well to bear in mind the ideal. And there is, besides, a precaution which surely can and will be taken: to take a supply of oxygen for restorative purposes. The value of oxygen for restoring exhausted39 and warming cold men was sufficiently40 well illustrated during the second attempt in 1922.
Chang La and North-east Shoulder of Mount Everest
The question as to whether the use of oxygen will otherwise help or hinder climbers is one about which opinions may be expected to disagree. Anyone who thinks that it is impossible to get up without oxygen can claim that nothing has shown it to be impossible to get up with its aid. For my part, I don’t think it impossible to get up without oxygen. The difference of atmospheric41 pressure between 27,000 feet and the summit is small, and it is safe to conclude that men who have exerted themselves at 27,000 feet could live without difficulty for a number of hours on the summit. As to whether their power of progress would give out before reaching 29,000 feet, it is impossible to dogmatise. I can only say that nothing in the experience of the first attempt has led me to suppose that those last 2,000 feet cannot be climbed in a day. I am not competent to sift42 and weigh all the evidence as to whether, how much, and with what consumption of gas it was easier to proceed up the slopes of Mount Everest with oxygen so far as Finch43 and Bruce went on that memorable44 day. But I do venture 292to combat the suggestion that it is necessarily easier to reach the top in that manner. I think no one will dispute the statement that the final camp for the second attempt was too low, as it had been for the first, to enable the oxygen party to reach the summit. With the same apparatus45 it will be necessary in this case also to provide a second camp above the North Col. And the question for the moment will ultimately be, is it possible to add to that immense burden of transport to 27,000 feet the weight of the oxygen cylinders47 required?
The weather in all probability will have something to say to this problem. The Expedition of 1922 was certainly not favoured by the weather. There was no continuous spell of calm fine days, and the summer snows began a week earlier than the most usual date. One wonders what sort of weather is to be expected with the most favourable48 conditions on Mount Everest. It is conceivable that a series of calm fine days sometimes precede the monsoon49. But when we consider the perpetual winds of Tibet at all seasons, it seems unlikely that Mount Everest is often immune from this abominable50 visitation. It is far more likely that the calm day is a rare exception, and only to be expected when the north-westerly current is neutralised by the monsoon from the South-east. The ill-luck of 1922 may probably be computed51 as no more than those seven days by which the monsoon preceded expectation. With so short a time for preparations and advance, we were indeed unfortunate in meeting an early monsoon. And it is hardly 293possible considerably to extend the available time by starting earlier. There was only the barest trickle52 of water at the Base Camp on May 1, 1922, and the complications involved by the necessity of melting snow for water, both here and at all higher stages, for any considerable time, would be a severe handicap. But it must be remembered that the second attempt was made a week before the monsoon broke. Time appeared short on the mountain chiefly from the threat of bad weather and the signs showing that the majority of days were, to say the least, extremely disagreeable for climbing high on the mountain. If others are confronted by similar conditions, they too will probably feel that each fine day must be utilised and the attack must be pressed on; for the fine days past will not come back, and ahead is the uncertain monsoon.
A final question may now be asked: What advantages will another Expedition have which we did not have in 1922? In one small and in one large matter the next Expedition may be better equipped. It was disappointing, after so much time and thought had been expended53 upon the problem of foot-gear, that nothing was evolved in 1922 which succeeded in taking the place of Alpine54 boots of well-known patterns. The great disadvantage of these sorts of boot is that one cannot wear crampons with them at these high altitudes, for the strap55 bound tightly round the foot will almost certainly cause frostbite; either different boots or different spikes56 must be invented if the climbers are to have crampons or their equivalent. It is essential that they 294should be so equipped to avoid the labour of step-cutting, and the lack of this equipment might well rob them of victory on the steep final slopes below the summit. This matter of foot-gear is not so very small, after all. But a still more important one is the oxygen apparatus. It is conceivable, and I believe by no means unlikely, that a different type of cylinder46 may be used in the future, and capable of containing more oxygen, compared with the same weight, than those of 1922. A 50 per cent. improvement in this direction should alter the whole problem of using oxygen. With this advantage it might well be possible to go to the top and back with the four cylinders which a man may be expected to carry from a height of 25,000 feet or little higher. If a second camp above the North Col becomes unnecessary in this way, the whole effort required, and especially the effort of transport, will be reduced to the scale of what has already been accomplished, and can no doubt be accomplished again.
The further advantage of a future Expedition is simply that of experience. It amounts to something, one cannot say how much. In small ways a number of mistakes may be avoided. The provision of this and that may be more accurately57 calculated according to tried values. The whole organisation of life in high camps should be rather more efficient. Beyond all this, the experience of 1922 should help when the moment comes towards the making of a right plan; and a party which chooses rightly what to do and when to do it, and can so exclude other possibilities as to 295be certain that no better way could be chosen, has a great advantage. But, when all is said as to experience and equipment, it still remains58 true that success requires a quality. History repeats itself, perhaps, but in a vague and general fashion only where mountains are concerned. The problem of reaching the summit is every time a fresh one. The keen eye for a fair opportunity and resource in grave emergencies are no less necessary to the mountaineer everywhere, and not least upon Mount Everest, than determination to carry through the high project, the simple will to conquer in the struggle.
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1
formulate
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| v.用公式表示；规划；设计；系统地阐述 | |
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deductions
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| 扣除( deduction的名词复数 )； 结论； 扣除的量； 推演 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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joint
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| adj.联合的，共同的；n.关节，接合处；v.连接，贴合 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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feat
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| n.功绩；武艺，技艺；adj.灵巧的，漂亮的，合适的 | |
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unreasonable
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| adj.不讲道理的，不合情理的，过度的 | |
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organise
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| vt.组织，安排，筹办 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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organisation
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| n.组织，安排，团体，有机休 | |
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12
physiologists
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| n.生理学者( physiologist的名词复数 )；生理学( physiology的名词复数 )；生理机能 | |
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physiological
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| adj.生理学的，生理学上的 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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consecutive
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| adj.连续的，联贯的，始终一贯的 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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tepidity
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| 微温，微热； 温热 | |
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derive
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| v.取得；导出；引申；来自；源自；出自 | |
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rustication
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| n.被罚休学，定居农村；乡村生活 | |
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aspiring
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| adj.有志气的；有抱负的；高耸的v.渴望；追求 | |
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21
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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24
exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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unduly
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| adv.过度地，不适当地 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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detailed
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| adj.详细的，详尽的，极注意细节的，完全的 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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illustrated
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| adj. 有插图的，列举的 动词illustrate的过去式和过去分词 | |
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exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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stimulants
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| n.兴奋剂( stimulant的名词复数 )；含兴奋剂的饮料；刺激物；激励物 | |
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contingencies
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| n.偶然发生的事故，意外事故( contingency的名词复数 )；以备万一 | |
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lavish
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| adj.无节制的；浪费的；vt.慷慨地给予，挥霍 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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atmospheric
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| adj.大气的，空气的；大气层的；大气所引起的 | |
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42
sift
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| v.筛撒，纷落，详察 | |
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finch
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| n.雀科鸣禽(如燕雀，金丝雀等) | |
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memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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apparatus
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| n.装置，器械；器具，设备 | |
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cylinder
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| n.圆筒，柱(面)，汽缸 | |
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47
cylinders
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| n.圆筒( cylinder的名词复数 )；圆柱；汽缸；（尤指用作容器的）圆筒状物 | |
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48
favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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49
monsoon
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| n.季雨，季风，大雨 | |
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50
abominable
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| adj.可厌的，令人憎恶的 | |
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51
computed
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| adj.[医]计算的，使用计算机的v.计算，估算( compute的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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52
trickle
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| vi.淌，滴，流出，慢慢移动，逐渐消散 | |
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53
expended
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| v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 )；使用（钱等）做某事；用光；耗尽 | |
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54
alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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55
strap
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| n.皮带，带子；v.用带扣住，束牢；用绷带包扎 | |
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56
spikes
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| n.穗( spike的名词复数 )；跑鞋；（防滑）鞋钉；尖状物v.加烈酒于( spike的第三人称单数 )；偷偷地给某人的饮料加入（更多）酒精（ 或药物）；把尖状物钉入；打乱某人的计划 | |
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57
accurately
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| adv.准确地，精确地 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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