Sunday, April 25.
We started early, and hurried over four leagues of the same open and uninteresting country, which brought us to Dorchester, the capital of the province, or county town, as it is called, because the provincial4 prison is here, and here the judges come twice a-year to decide all causes civil and criminal. The prison is a modern building: the height and strength of its walls, its iron-grated windows, and 38its strong gateway5, with fetters6 hanging over the entrance, sufficiently7 characterise it as a place of punishment, and render it a good representation of a giant’s castle in romance.
When J— passed through this town on his way to Spain, he visited Gilbert Wakefield, a celebrated9 scholar, who was confined here as a favourer of the French Revolution. One of the bishops11 had written a book upon the state of public affairs, just at the time when the minister proposed to take from every man the tithe12 of his income: this the bishop10 did not think sufficient; so he suggested instead, that a tenth should be levied13 of all the capital in the kingdom; arguing, that as every person would be affected14 in the same proportion, all would remain relatively15 as before, and in fact no person be affected at all. This curious argument he enforced by as curious an illustration; he said, “That if the foundation of a great building were to sink equally in every part at the same time, 39the whole pile, instead of suffering any injury, would become the firmer.”—“True,” said Wakefield in his reply, “and you, my lord bishop, who dwell in the upper apartments, might still enjoy the prospect16 from your window;—but what would become of me and the good people who live upon the ground floor?”
Wakefield was particularly obnoxious17 to the government, because his character stood very high among the Dissenters18 for learning and integrity, and his opinions were proportionately of weight. They brought him to trial for having in his answer to the bishop’s pamphlet applied19 the fable20 of the Ass8 and his Panniers to existing circumstances. Had it indeed been circulated among the poor, its tendency would certainly have been mischievous21; but in the form in which it appeared it was evidently designed as a warning to the rulers, not as an address to the mob. He was, however, condemned22 to two years confinement23 in this prison, 40this place being chosen as out of reach of his friends, to make imprisonment24 more painful. The public feeling upon this rigorous treatment of so eminent25 a man was strongly expressed, and a subscription26 was publicly raised for him which amounted to above fifteen hundred pieces-of-eight, and which enabled his family to remove to Dorchester and settle there. But the magistrates27, whose business it was to oversee28 the prison, would neither permit them to lodge29 with him in his confinement, nor even to visit him daily. He was thus prevented from proceeding30 with the education of his children, an occupation which he had ever regarded as a duty, and which had been one of his highest enjoyments31. But, in the midst of vexations and insults, he steadily32 continued to pursue both his literary and christian33 labours; affording to his fellow prisoners what assistance was in his power, endeavouring to reclaim34 the vicious, and preparing the condemned for death. His imprisonment eventually proved 41fatal. He had been warned on its expiration35 to accustom36 himself slowly to his former habits of exercise, or a fever would inevitably37 be the consequence; a fact known by experience. In spite of all his precautions it took place; and while his friends were rejoicing at his deliverance he was cut off. As a polemical and political writer he indulged an asperity38 of language which he had learnt from his favourite philologists39, but in private life no man was more generally or more deservedly beloved, and he had a fearless and inflexible40 honesty which made him utterly41 regardless of all danger, and would have enabled him to exult42 in martyrdom. When J— had related this history to me, I could not but observe how far more humane43 it was to prevent the publication of obnoxious books than to permit them to be printed and then punish the persons concerned. “This,” he said, “would be too open a violation44 of the liberty of the press.”
42By the time we had breakfasted the bells for divine service were ringing, and I took the opportunity to step into one of their churches. The office is performed in a desk immediately under the pulpit, not at the altar: there were no lights burning, nor any church vessels45, nor ornaments46 to be seen. Monuments are fixed47 against the walls and pillars, and I thought there was a damp and unwholesome smell, perhaps because I involuntarily expected the frankincense. They have an abominable48 custom of partitioning their churches into divisions which they call pews, and which are private property; so that the wealthy sit at their ease, or kneel upon cushions, while the poor stand during the whole service in the aisle49.
An attempt was made something more than a century ago to rear silkworms in this neighbourhood by a Mr Newberry; a man of many whimsies50 he was called, and whimsical indeed he must have been; for the different buildings for his silkworms 43and his laboratories were so numerous that his house looked like a village, and all his laundry and dairy work was done by men, because he would suffer no women servants about him.
The road still lay over the downs; this is a great sheep country, above 150,000 are annually51 sold from Dorsetshire to other parts of England; they are larger than ours, and I think less beautiful, the wool being more curled and less soft in its appearance. It was once supposed that the thyme in these pastures was so nourishing as to make the ewes produce twins, a story which may be classed with the tale of the Lusitanian foals of the wind; it is however true that the ewes are purchased by the farmers near the metropolis52, for the sake of fattening53 their lambs for the London market, because they yean earlier than any others. The day was very fine, and the sight of this open and naked country, where nothing was to be seen but an extent of short green turf under a sky 44of cloudless blue, was singular and beautiful. There are upon the downs many sepulchral54 hillocks, here called barrows, of antiquity55 beyond the reach of history. We past by a village church as the people were assembling for service, men and women all in their clean Sunday clothes; the men standing56 in groups by the church-yard stile, or before the porch, or sitting upon the tombstones, a hale and ruddy race. The dresses seem every where the same, without the slightest provincial difference: all the men wear hats, the least graceful57 and least convenient covering for the head that ever was devised. I have not yet seen a cocked hat except upon the officers. They bury the dead both in town and country round the churches, and the church-yards are full of upright stones, on which the name and age of the deceased is inscribed58, usually with some account of his good qualities, and not unfrequently some rude religious rhyme. I observe that the oldest churches are always the 45most beautiful, here as well as every where else; for as we think more of ourselves and less of religion, more of this world and less of the next, we build better houses and worse churches. There are no storks59 here: the jackdaw, a social and noisy bird, commonly builds in the steeples. Little reverence60 is shown either to the church or the cemetery61; the boys play with a ball against the tower, and the priest’s horse is permitted to graze upon the graves.
At Blandford we changed chaises; a wealthy and cheerful town. The English cities have no open centre like our plazas62; but, in amends63 for this, the streets are far wider and more airy: indeed they have never sun enough to make them desirous of shade. The prosperity of the kingdom has been fatal to the antiquities64, and consequently to the picturesque65 beauty of the towns. Walls, gates, and castles have been demolished66 to make room for the growth of streets. You are delighted 46with the appearance of opulence67 in the houses, and the perfect cleanliness every where when you are within the town; but without, there is nothing which the painter would choose for his subject, nothing to call up the recollections of old times, and those feelings with which we always remember the age of the shield and the lance.
This town and Dorchester, but this in particular, has suffered much from fire; a tremendous calamity68 which is every day occurring in England, and against which daily and dreadful experience has not yet taught them to adopt any general means of prevention. There are large plantations69 about Blandford:—I do not like the English method of planting in what they call belts about their estates; nothing can be more formal or less beautiful, especially as the fir is the favourite tree, which precludes70 all variety of shape and colour. By some absurdity71 which I cannot explain, they set the young trees so thick 47that unless three-fourths be weeded out, the remainder cannot grow at all; and when they are weeded, those which are left, if they do not wither72 and perish in consequence of the exposure, rarely attain73 to any size or strength.
Our next stage was to the episcopal city of Salisbury; here we left the down-country, and once more entered upon cultivated fields and inclosures. The trees in these hedge-rows, if they are at all lofty, have all their boughs74 clipt to the very top; nothing can look more naked and deplorable. When they grow by the way-side, this is enjoined75 by law, because their droppings after rain injure the road, and their shade prevents it from drying. The climate has so much rain and so little sun, that over-hanging boughs have been found in like manner injurious to pasture or arable76 lands, and the trees, therefore, are every where thus deformed77. The approach to Salisbury is very delightful;—little rivers or rivulets78 48are seen in every direction; houses extending into the country, garden-trees within the city, and the spire79 of the cathedral over-topping all; the highest and the most beautiful in the whole kingdom.
We visited this magnificent building while our dinner was getting ready: like all such buildings, it has its traditional tales of absurdity and exaggeration—that it has as many private chapels80 as months in a year, as many doors as weeks, as many pillars as days, as many windows as hours, and as many partitions in the windows as minutes: they say also, that it is founded upon wool-packs, because nothing else could resist the humidity of the soil. It has lately undergone, or, I should rather say, suffered a thorough repair in the true spirit of reformation. Every thing has been cleared away to give it the appearance of one huge room. The little chapels, which its pious81 founders82 and benefactors83 had erected84 in the hope of exciting piety3 49in others, and profiting by their prayers, are all swept away! but you may easily conceive what wild work a protestant architect must make with a cathedral, when he fits it to his own notions of architecture, without the slightest feeling or knowledge of the design with which such buildings were originally erected. The naked monuments are now ranged in rows between the pillars, one opposite another, like couples for a dance, so as never monuments were placed before, and, it is to be hoped, never will be placed hereafter. Here is the tomb of a nobleman, who, in the reign85 of our Philip and Mary, was executed for murder, like a common malefactor86, with this difference only, that he had the privilege of being hanged in a silken halter; a singularity which, instead of rendering87 his death less ignominious88, has made the ignominy more notorious. The cloisters89 and the chapter-house have escaped alteration. I have seen more beautiful cloisters in our own country, but never a finer chapterhouse; 50it is supported, as usual, by one central pillar, whose top arches off on all sides, like the head of a spreading palm. The bishop’s palace was bought during the reign of the presbyterians by a rich tailor, who demolished it and sold the materials.
The cemetery has suffered even more than the church, if more be possible, from the abominable sacrilege, and abominable taste of the late bishop and his chapter. They have destroyed all memorials of the dead, for the sake of laying it down as a smooth well-shorn grass plat, garnished90 with bright yellow gravel91 walks! This suits no feeling of the mind connected with religious reverence, with death, or with the hope of immortality92; indeed it suits with nothing except a new painted window at the altar, of truly English design, (for England is not the country of the arts,) and an organ, bedecked with crocketed pinnacles93, more than ever was Gothic tower, and of stone colour, to imitate masonry94! This, however, it should be added, 51was given in a handsome manner by the King. A subscription was raised through the diocese to repair the cathedral, the King having enquired95 of the bishop how it succeeded, proceeded to ask why he himself had not been applied to for a contribution. The prelate, with courtly submission96, disclaimed97 such presumption98 as highly improper99. I live at Windsor, said the King, in your diocese, and, though I am not rich, can afford to give you an organ, which I know you want; so order one in my name, and let it be suitable to so fine a cathedral.
The soil here abounds100 so much with water, that there are no vaults101 in the churches, nor cellars in the city; a spring will sometimes gush102 up when they are digging a grave. Little streams flow through several of the streets, so that the city has been called the English Venice; but whoever gave it this appellation103, either had never seen Venice, or grossly flattered Salisbury. Indeed, till the resemblance 52was invented, these streamlets were rather thought inconvenient104 than beautiful; and travellers complained that they made the streets not so clean and not so easy of passage, as they would have been otherwise. The place is famous for the manufactory of knives and scissars, which are here brought to the greatest possible perfection. I am sorry it happened to be Sunday; for the shops, which form so lively a feature in English towns, are all fastened up with shutters105, which give the city a melancholy106 and mourning appearance. I saw, however, a priest walking in his cassock from the church,—the only time when the priests are distinguished107 in their dress from the laity108.
A remarkable109 instance of insolent110 impiety occurred lately in a village near this place. A man, in derision of religion, directed in his will, that his horse should be caparisoned and led to his grave, and there shot, and buried with him, that he might be ready to mount at the resurrection, 53and start to advantage. To the disgrace of the country this was actually performed; the executors and the legatees probably thought themselves bound to obey the will; but it is unaccountable why the clergyman did not interfere111, and apply to the bishop.
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1
alteration
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| n.变更，改变；蚀变 | |
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impiety
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| n.不敬；不孝 | |
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piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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provincial
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| adj.省的，地方的；n．外省人，乡下人 | |
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gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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fetters
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| n.脚镣( fetter的名词复数 )；束缚v.给…上脚镣，束缚( fetter的第三人称单数 ) | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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ass
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| n.驴；傻瓜，蠢笨的人 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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bishop
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| n.主教，（国际象棋）象 | |
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bishops
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| （基督教某些教派管辖大教区的）主教( bishop的名词复数 )； （国际象棋的）象 | |
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12
tithe
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| n.十分之一税；v.课什一税，缴什一税 | |
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levied
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| 征（兵）( levy的过去式和过去分词 )； 索取； 发动（战争）； 征税 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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relatively
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| adv.比较...地，相对地 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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obnoxious
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| adj.极恼人的，讨人厌的，可憎的 | |
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dissenters
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| n.持异议者，持不同意见者( dissenter的名词复数 ) | |
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applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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fable
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| n.寓言；童话；神话 | |
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mischievous
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| adj.调皮的，恶作剧的，有害的，伤人的 | |
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condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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23
confinement
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| n.幽禁，拘留，监禁；分娩；限制，局限 | |
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imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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eminent
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| adj.显赫的，杰出的，有名的，优良的 | |
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subscription
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| n.预订，预订费，亲笔签名，调配法，下标（处方） | |
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magistrates
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| 地方法官，治安官( magistrate的名词复数 ) | |
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oversee
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| vt.监督，管理 | |
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lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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enjoyments
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| 愉快( enjoyment的名词复数 )； 令人愉快的事物； 享有； 享受 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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reclaim
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| v.要求归还，收回；开垦 | |
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expiration
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| n.终结，期满，呼气，呼出物 | |
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accustom
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| vt.使适应，使习惯 | |
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inevitably
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| adv.不可避免地；必然发生地 | |
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asperity
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| n.粗鲁，艰苦 | |
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philologists
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| n.语文学( philology的名词复数 ) | |
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inflexible
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| adj.不可改变的，不受影响的，不屈服的 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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exult
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| v.狂喜，欢腾；欢欣鼓舞 | |
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humane
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| adj.人道的，富有同情心的 | |
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violation
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| n.违反(行为)，违背(行为)，侵犯 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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46
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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47
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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abominable
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| adj.可厌的，令人憎恶的 | |
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49
aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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50
whimsies
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| n.怪念头( whimsy的名词复数 )；异想天开；怪脾气；与众不同的幽默感 | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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metropolis
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| n.首府；大城市 | |
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53
fattening
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| adj.（食物）要使人发胖的v.喂肥( fatten的现在分词 )；养肥（牲畜）；使（钱）增多；使（公司）升值 | |
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54
sepulchral
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| adj.坟墓的，阴深的 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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58
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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storks
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| n.鹳( stork的名词复数 ) | |
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reverence
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| n.敬畏，尊敬，尊严；Reverence:对某些基督教神职人员的尊称；v.尊敬，敬畏，崇敬 | |
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cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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plazas
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| n.（尤指西班牙语城镇的）露天广场( plaza的名词复数 )；购物中心 | |
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amends
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| n. 赔偿 | |
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antiquities
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| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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demolished
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| v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 )；推翻；拆毁（尤指大建筑物）；吃光 | |
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opulence
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| n.财富，富裕 | |
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calamity
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| n.灾害，祸患，不幸事件 | |
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plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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precludes
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| v.阻止( preclude的第三人称单数 )；排除；妨碍；使…行不通 | |
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absurdity
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| n.荒谬，愚蠢；谬论 | |
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wither
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| vt.使凋谢，使衰退，(用眼神气势等)使畏缩；vi.枯萎，衰退，消亡 | |
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attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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enjoined
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| v.命令( enjoin的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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arable
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| adj.可耕的，适合种植的 | |
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deformed
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| adj.畸形的；变形的；丑的，破相了的 | |
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rivulets
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| n.小河，小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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80
chapels
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| n.小教堂， （医院、监狱等的）附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 )；（在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的）礼拜仪式 | |
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pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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founders
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| n.创始人( founder的名词复数 ) | |
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benefactors
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| n.捐助者，施主( benefactor的名词复数 )；恩人 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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malefactor
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| n.罪犯 | |
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rendering
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| n.表现，描写 | |
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ignominious
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| adj.可鄙的，不光彩的，耻辱的 | |
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cloisters
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| n.（学院、修道院、教堂等建筑的）走廊( cloister的名词复数 )；回廊；修道院的生活；隐居v.隐退，使与世隔绝( cloister的第三人称单数 ) | |
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garnished
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| v.给（上餐桌的食物）加装饰( garnish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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immortality
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| n.不死，不朽 | |
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93
pinnacles
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| 顶峰( pinnacle的名词复数 )； 顶点； 尖顶； 小尖塔 | |
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masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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enquired
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| 打听( enquire的过去式和过去分词 )； 询问； 问问题； 查问 | |
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submission
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| n.服从，投降；温顺，谦虚；提出 | |
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disclaimed
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| v.否认( disclaim的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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presumption
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| n.推测，可能性，冒昧，放肆，[法律]推定 | |
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improper
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| adj.不适当的，不合适的，不正确的，不合礼仪的 | |
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abounds
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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vaults
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| n.拱顶( vault的名词复数 )；地下室；撑物跳高；墓穴 | |
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gush
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| v.喷，涌；滔滔不绝(说话)；n.喷，涌流；迸发 | |
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appellation
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| n.名称，称呼 | |
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inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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106
melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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laity
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| n.俗人；门外汉 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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insolent
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| adj.傲慢的，无理的 | |
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interfere
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| v.(in)干涉，干预；(with)妨碍，打扰 | |
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