At the extreme north-eastern point of Asia, bounded by the Polar Ocean on one side and the Sea of Bering on the other, lies the land of the Tchuktchi. The few travellers who have ever visited that bleak3 promontory4 describe it as one of the dreariest5 regions of the earth. The climate is dreadfully cold, as may be expected in a country confined between icy seas. Before July 20th there is no appearance of summer, and winter already sets in about August 20th. The lower grounds shelving to the north are intersected with numerous streams, which, however, enjoy their liberty but a short time of the year; the valleys are mostly swampy6 and filled with small lakes or ponds; while on the bleak hill-slopes the Vaccinium and the dwarf7 birch or willow8 sparingly vegetate9 under a carpet of mosses10 and lichens11. The eastern, north-eastern, and partly also the southern coasts abound12 with walruses14, sea-lions, and seals, while the reindeer, the argali, the wolf, and the Arctic fox occupy the land. During the short summer, geese, swans, ducks, and wading-birds frequent the marshy15 grounds; but in winter the snow-owl and the raven16 alone remain, and constantly follow the path of the nomadic18 inhabitants. In this desolate19 nook of the Old World lives the only aboriginal20 people of North Asia which has known how to maintain its liberty to the present day, and which, proud of its independence, looks down with sovereign contempt upon its relations, the Korjaks, who, without offering any resistance, have yielded to the authority of Russia.
263 The rulers of Siberia have indeed confined the Tchuktchi within narrow limits, but here at least they obey no foreign ruler, and wander, unmolested by the stranger, with their numerous reindeer herds22, over the naked tundras23. A natural distrust of their powerful neighbors has rendered them long unwilling24 to enter into any commercial intercourse25 with the Russians, and to meet them at the fair of Ostrownoje, a small town, situated26 not far from their frontiers, on a small island of the Aniuj, in 68° N. lat.
96. TCHUKTCHI CANOE.
This remotest trading-place of the Old World is not so unimportant as might be supposed, from the sterile27 nature of the country, for the Tchuktchi are not satisfied, like the indolent Lapps or Samoïedes, with the produce of their reindeer herds, but strive to increase their enjoyments28 or their property by an active trade. From the East Cape29 of Asia, where, crossing Bering’s Straits in boats covered with skins, they barter30 furs and walrus13-teeth from the natives of America, the Tchuktchi come with their goods and tents drawn31 on sledges32 to the fair of Ostrownoje. Other sledges laden33 with lichens, the food of the reindeer, follow in their train, as in their wanderings, however circuitous34, they not seldom pass through regions so stony35 and desert as not even to afford these frugal36 animals the slightest repast. Thus regulating their movements by the wants of their herds, they require five or six months for a journey which, in a direct line, would not be much longer than a thousand versts, and are almost constantly wandering from place to place, though, as they always carry their dwellings37 along with them, they at the same time never leave home. One of these snail-like caravans39 generally consists of fifty or sixty families, and one fair is scarcely at an end when they set off to make their arrangements for the next.
Tobacco is the primum mobile of the trade which centres in Ostrownoje. Their pipes are of a peculiar40 character, larger at the stem than the bowl, which holds a very small quantity of tobacco. In smoking, they swallow the fumes41 of the tobacco, and often, after six or eight whiffs, fall back completely intoxicated264 for the time. The desire to procure42 a few of its narcotic43 leaves induces the American Esquimaux, from the Icy Cape to Bristol Bay, to send their produce from hand to hand as far as the Gwosdew Islands in Bering’s Straits, where it is bartered44 for the tobacco of the Tchuktchi, and these again principally resort to the fair of Ostrownoje to purchase tobacco from the Russians. Generally the Tchuktchi receive from the Americans as many skins for half a poud, or eighteen pounds, of tobacco-leaves as they afterwards sell to the Russians for two pouds of tobacco of the same quality. These cost the Russian merchant about 160 roubles at the very utmost, while the skins which he obtains in barter are worth at least 260 at Jakutsk, and are more than double that sum at St. Petersburg.
97. TCHUKTCHI PIPE.
The furs of the Tchuktchi principally consist of black and silver-gray foxes, stone-foxes, gluttons45, lynxes, otters46, beavers47, and a fine species of marten which does not occur in Siberia, and approaches the sable49 in value. They also bring to the fair bear-skins, walrus-thongs50 and teeth, sledge-runners of whale-ribs, and ready-made clothes of reindeer skin. The American furs are generally packed in sacks of seal skin, which are made in an ingenious manner by extracting the bones and flesh through a small opening made in the abdomen51.
The Russian traders on their part bring to the fair, besides tobacco, ironware—particularly kettles and knives—for the Tchuktchi, and tea, sugar, and various stuffs for their countrymen who have settled along the Kolyma.
But Ostrownoje attracts not only Tchuktchi and Russians; a great number of the Siberian tribes from a vast circuit of 1000 or 1500 versts—Jukahires, Lamutes, Tungusi, Tschuwanzi, Koriaks—also come flocking in their sledges, drawn partly by dogs, partly by horses, for the purpose of bartering52 their commodities against the goods of the Tchuktchi. Fancy this barbarous assembly meeting every year during the intense cold and short days of the beginning of March. Picture to yourself the fantastic illumination of their red watch-fires blazing under the starry53 firmament54, or mingling55 their ruddy glare with the Aurora56 flickering57 through the skies, and add to the strange sight the hollow sound of the Shaman’s drum, and the howling of several hundreds of hungry dogs, and you will surely confess that no fair has a more original character than that of Ostrownoje. A government commissary, assisted by some Cossacks, superintends the fair, and receives the inconsiderable market-tax which the Tchuktchi pay to the Emperor.
265 All preliminaries having been arranged, the orthodox Russians repair to the chapel58 for the purpose of hearing a solemn mass, after which, the hoisting59 of a flag on the tower of the ostrog announces the opening of the market. At this welcome sign, the Tchuktchi, completely armed with spears, bows, and arrows, advance with their sledges, and form a wide semicircle round the fort, while the Russians, and the other visitors of the fair, ranged opposite to them, await in breathless silence the tolling60 of the bell, which is to begin the active business of the day. At the very first sound, each trader, grotesquely61 laden with packages of tobacco, kettles, knives, or whatever else he supposes best able to supply some want, or to strike some fancy of the Tchuktchi, rushes as fast as he can towards the sledges, and in the jumble62 not seldom knocks down a competitor, or is himself stretched at full length on the snow. But, unmindful of the loss of cap and gloves, which he does not give himself time to pick up, he starts afresh, to make up for the delay by redoubled activity. Before he reaches the first Tchuktch, his eloquence63 breaks forth64 in an interminable flow, and in a strange jargon65 of Russian, Tchuktch, and Jakute, he praises the excellence66 of his tobacco or the solidity of his kettles. The imperturbable67 gravity of the Tchuktch forms a remarkable68 contrast with the greedy eagerness of the Russian trader; without replying to his harangue69, he merely shakes his head if the other offers him too little for his goods, and never for an instant loses his self-possession: while the Russian, in his hurry, not seldom hands over two pouds of tobacco for one, or pockets a red fox instead of a black one. Although the Tchuktch have no scales with them, it is not easy to deceive them in the weight, for they know exactly by the feeling of the hand whether a quarter of a pound is wanting to the poud. The whole fair seldom lasts longer than three days, and Ostrownoje, which must have but very few stationary71 inhabitants indeed (as it is not even mentioned in statistical72 accounts, which cite towns of seventeen souls), is soon after abandoned for many months to its ultra-Siberian solitude73.
But before we allow the Tchuktchi to retire to their deserts, we may learn something more of their habits by accompanying Mr. Matiuschkin—Wrangell’s companion—on a visit to the ladies of one of their first chiefs. “We enter the outer tent, or ‘namet,’ consisting of tanned reindeer skins supported on a slender frame-work. An opening at the top to let out the smoke, and a kettle in the centre, announce that antechamber and kitchen are here harmoniously74 blended into one. But where are the inmates75? Most probably in that large sack made of the finest skins of reindeer calves76, which occupies, near the kettle, the centre of the ‘namet.’ To penetrate77 into this ‘sanctum sanctorum’ of the Tchuktch household, we raise the loose flap which serves as a door, creep on all fours through the opening, cautiously re-fasten the flap by tucking it under the floor-skin, and find ourselves in the reception or withdrawing room—the ‘polog.’ A snug78 box no doubt for a cold climate, but rather low, as we can not stand upright in it, and not quite so well ventilated as a sanitary79 commissioner80 would approve of, as it has positively81 no opening for light or air. A suffocating82 smoke meets us on entering, we rub our eyes, and when they have at length got accustomed to the biting atmosphere, we perceive, by the gloomy light of a266 train-oil lamp, the worthy83 family squatting84 on the floor in a state of almost complete nudity. Without being in the least embarrassed, Madame Leütt and her daughter receive us in their primitive85 costume: but to show us that the Tchuktchi know how to receive company, and to do honor to their guests, they immediately insert strings86 of glass beads87 in their greasy88 hair. Their hospitality equals their politeness; for, instead of a cold reception, a hot dish of boiled reindeer-flesh, copiously89 irrigated90 with rancid train-oil by the experienced hand of the mistress of the household, is soon after smoking before us. Unfortunately our effeminate taste is not up to the haut goût of her culinary art, and while Mr. Leütt does ample justice to the artistic91 talent of his spouse92, by rapidly bolting down pieces as large as a fist, we are hardly able to swallow a morsel93.”
During his visit at Ostrownoje, Matiuschkin had a favorable opportunity of becoming acquainted with the sports of the Tchuktchi, the chieftain, Makomol, having set out prizes for a race. These consisted of a valuable silver fox, a first-rate beaver48 skin, and two fine walrus-teeth. Nothing can be more admirable than the fleetness of the reindeer or the dexterity94 of their drivers; and the agility95 displayed in the foot-race by the Tchuktchi, running at full speed, in their heavy winter dresses, over a distance of fifteen versts, gives a high idea of their muscular powers. After the races, the spectators are treated to a grand choregraphic display. The Arctic bayaderes, muffled96 from head to foot in their stiff skin garments, form a narrow circle, slowly moving their feet backward and forward, and fiercely gesticulating with their hands, whilst their faces are distorted into a thousand horrible grimaces97. The singing that accompanies the ballet has no doubt its charm for native ears, but to strangers it seems no better than a kind of grunt98. The representation is closed by three first-rate artistes executing a particularly favorite dance. The faces of their countrymen express the same intense admiration99 with which a European dilettante100 follows the graceful101 pirouettes of a Taglioni, while the Russian guests see only three greasy monsters alternately rushing towards each other and starting back, until at length they stop from sheer exhaustion102. As a token of their satisfaction, the Russians regale103 the fair performers with a cup of brandy and a roll of tobacco, and both parties take leave of each other with mutual104 protestations of satisfaction and friendship.
Though most of the Reindeer or nomadic Tchuktchi have been baptized, yet Wrangell supposes the ceremony to have been a mere70 financial speculation105 on their part, and is convinced that the power of the Shamans is still as great as ever. An epidemic106 had carried off a great number of persons, and also whole herds of reindeer. In vain the Shamans had recourse to their usual conjurations, the plague continued. They consulted together, and directed that one of their most respected chiefs, named Kotschen, must be sacrificed, to appease107 the irritated spirits. Kotschen was willing to submit to the sentence, but none could be found to execute it, until his own son, prevailed on by his father’s exhortations108, and terrified by his threatened curse, plunged109 a knife into his heart, and gave his body to the Shamans.
Polygamy is general among the Tchuktchi, and they change their wives as often as they please. Still, though the women are certainly slaves, they are allowed267 more influence, and are subjected to less labor110 than among many savages111. Among other heathenish and detestable customs, is that of killing112 all deformed113 children, and all old people as soon as they become unfit for the hardships and fatigues114 of a nomad17 life. Two years before Wrangell’s arrival at Kolyma there was an instance of this in the case of one of their richest chiefs. Waletka’s father became infirm and tired of life, and was put to death at his own express desire by some of his nearest relations.
Besides the wandering, or Reindeer Tchuktchi, who call themselves Tennygk, there are others, dwelling38 in fixed115 habitations along the borders of the sea at Bering’s Straits and the Gulf116 of Anadyr, who differ considerably117 from the former in appearance and language. These Onkilon, or stationary Tchuktchi, belong to the wide-spread Esquimaux family, and, like most of their race, subsist118 by hunting the whale, the walrus, and the seal. They live in a state of abject119 dependence21 on the nomad Tchuktchi, and are poor, like all fishermen, while some of the Tennygk chieftains possess several thousands of reindeer, and are continually adding to their wealth by trade. Of course there is an active exchange of commodities between the two; the Onkilon furnishing thongs of walrus hide, walrus-teeth, train-oil, etc., and receiving reindeer skins, or ready-made clothes of the same material, in return.
They live in small settlements or villages spread along the coast; their huts, raised on frame-works of whale-rib and covered with skins, resemble a large irregular cone120 reposing121 on its side, with the apex122 directed to the north, and the base shelving abruptly123 to the south. Here is the small opening, closed by a flap of loose skin, which serves as a door, while the smoke escapes and the light enters through a round hole in the roof. At the farther or northern end of this structure is a second low square tent, covered with double reindeer skins, the polog, which in winter serves both as the dining and bed room of the family.
The Onkilon catch seals in a kind of net made of leather straps124, which they spread out under the ice, and in which the animal entangles125 itself with the head or flippers. When the walrus, which is particularly abundant about Koliutschin Island, creeps on shore, they steal upon it unawares, cut off its retreat, and kill it with their spears. Like the Esquimaux, they use dogs to drag their sledges.
The number of the Tchuktchi is greater than one might expect to find in so sterile a country. According to the Russian missionaries126, there were, some years back, 52 ulusses or villages of the Onkilon, with 1568 tents, and 10,000 inhabitants; and Wrangell tells us that the Tennygk are at least twice as numerous, so that the entire population of the land of the Tchuktchi may possibly amount to 30,000.
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1
migrations
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| n.迁移，移居( migration的名词复数 ) | |
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reindeer
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| n.驯鹿 | |
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bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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dreariest
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| 使人闷闷不乐或沮丧的( dreary的最高级 )； 阴沉的； 令人厌烦的； 单调的 | |
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swampy
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| adj.沼泽的，湿地的 | |
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dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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willow
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| n.柳树 | |
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vegetate
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| v.无所事事地过活 | |
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mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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lichens
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| n.地衣( lichen的名词复数 ) | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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walrus
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| n.海象 | |
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walruses
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| n.海象( walrus的名词复数 ) | |
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marshy
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| adj.沼泽的 | |
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raven
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| n.渡鸟，乌鸦；adj.乌亮的 | |
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nomad
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| n.游牧部落的人，流浪者，游牧民 | |
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nomadic
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| adj.流浪的；游牧的 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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aboriginal
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| adj.（指动植物）土生的，原产地的，土著的 | |
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dependence
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| n.依靠，依赖；信任，信赖；隶属 | |
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herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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tundras
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| n.（多数位于北极圈的）冻土带( tundra的名词复数 )；苔原；冻原；寒漠 | |
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unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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enjoyments
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| 愉快( enjoyment的名词复数 )； 令人愉快的事物； 享有； 享受 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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barter
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| n.物物交换，以货易货，实物交易 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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sledges
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| n.雪橇，雪车( sledge的名词复数 )v.乘雪橇( sledge的第三人称单数 )；用雪橇运载 | |
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laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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circuitous
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| adj.迂回的路的，迂曲的，绕行的 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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frugal
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| adj.节俭的，节约的，少量的，微量的 | |
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dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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dwelling
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| n.住宅，住所，寓所 | |
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caravans
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| （可供居住的）拖车（通常由机动车拖行）( caravan的名词复数 )； 篷车； （穿过沙漠地带的）旅行队（如商队） | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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fumes
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| n.(强烈而刺激的)气味，气体 | |
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procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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narcotic
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| n.麻醉药，镇静剂；adj.麻醉的，催眠的 | |
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bartered
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| v.作物物交换，以货换货( barter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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45
gluttons
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| 贪食者( glutton的名词复数 )； 贪图者； 酷爱…的人； 狼獾 | |
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otters
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| n.（水）獭( otter的名词复数 )；獭皮 | |
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47
beavers
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| 海狸( beaver的名词复数 )； 海狸皮毛； 棕灰色； 拼命工作的人 | |
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beaver
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| n.海狸，河狸 | |
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sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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thongs
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| 的东西 | |
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51
abdomen
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| n.腹，下腹(胸部到腿部的部分) | |
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bartering
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| v.作物物交换，以货换货( barter的现在分词 ) | |
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53
starry
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| adj.星光照耀的, 闪亮的 | |
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firmament
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| n.苍穹；最高层 | |
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mingling
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| adj.混合的 | |
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aurora
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| n.极光 | |
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flickering
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| adj.闪烁的，摇曳的，一闪一闪的 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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hoisting
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| 起重，提升 | |
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tolling
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| [财]来料加工 | |
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grotesquely
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| adv. 奇异地,荒诞地 | |
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jumble
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| vt.使混乱，混杂；n.混乱；杂乱的一堆 | |
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eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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jargon
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| n.术语，行话 | |
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excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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imperturbable
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| adj.镇静的 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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69
harangue
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| n.慷慨冗长的训话，言辞激烈的讲话 | |
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70
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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71
stationary
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| adj.固定的，静止不动的 | |
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72
statistical
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| adj.统计的，统计学的 | |
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73
solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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74
harmoniously
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| 和谐地，调和地 | |
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75
inmates
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| n.囚犯( inmate的名词复数 ) | |
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76
calves
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| n.(calf的复数)笨拙的男子，腓；腿肚子( calf的名词复数 )；牛犊；腓；小腿肚v.生小牛( calve的第三人称单数 )；（冰川）崩解；生（小牛等），产（犊）；使（冰川）崩解 | |
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77
penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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78
snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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79
sanitary
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| adj.卫生方面的，卫生的，清洁的，卫生的 | |
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80
commissioner
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| n.（政府厅、局、处等部门）专员，长官，委员 | |
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81
positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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82
suffocating
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| a.使人窒息的 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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84
squatting
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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85
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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86
strings
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| n.弦 | |
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87
beads
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| n.（空心）小珠子( bead的名词复数 )；水珠；珠子项链 | |
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greasy
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| adj. 多脂的，油脂的 | |
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copiously
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| adv.丰富地，充裕地 | |
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90
irrigated
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| [医]冲洗的 | |
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artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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spouse
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| n.配偶(指夫或妻) | |
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morsel
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| n.一口，一点点 | |
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94
dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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95
agility
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| n.敏捷，活泼 | |
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96
muffled
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| adj.（声音）被隔的；听不太清的；（衣服）裹严的；蒙住的v.压抑，捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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97
grimaces
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| n.（表蔑视、厌恶等）面部扭曲，鬼脸( grimace的名词复数 )v.扮鬼相，做鬼脸( grimace的第三人称单数 ) | |
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98
grunt
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| v.嘟哝；作呼噜声；n.呼噜声，嘟哝 | |
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99
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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100
dilettante
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| n.半瓶醋，业余爱好者 | |
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101
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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102
exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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103
regale
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| v.取悦，款待 | |
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104
mutual
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| adj.相互的，彼此的；共同的，共有的 | |
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105
speculation
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| n.思索，沉思；猜测；投机 | |
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106
epidemic
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| n.流行病；盛行；adj.流行性的，流传极广的 | |
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107
appease
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| v.安抚，缓和，平息，满足 | |
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108
exhortations
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| n.敦促( exhortation的名词复数 )；极力推荐；（正式的）演讲；（宗教仪式中的）劝诫 | |
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109
plunged
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| v.颠簸( plunge的过去式和过去分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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110
labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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111
savages
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| 未开化的人，野蛮人( savage的名词复数 ) | |
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112
killing
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| n.巨额利润；突然赚大钱，发大财 | |
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113
deformed
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| adj.畸形的；变形的；丑的，破相了的 | |
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114
fatigues
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| n.疲劳( fatigue的名词复数 )；杂役；厌倦；（士兵穿的）工作服 | |
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115
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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116
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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117
considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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118
subsist
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| vi.生存，存在，供养 | |
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119
abject
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| adj.极可怜的，卑屈的 | |
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120
cone
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| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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121
reposing
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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122
apex
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| n.顶点，最高点 | |
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123
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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124
straps
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| n.带子( strap的名词复数 )；挎带；肩带；背带v.用皮带捆扎( strap的第三人称单数 )；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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125
entangles
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| v.使某人（某物/自己）缠绕，纠缠于（某物中），使某人（自己）陷入（困难或复杂的环境中）( entangle的第三人称单数 ) | |
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126
missionaries
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| n.传教士( missionary的名词复数 ) | |
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