In 1867 the Russian Government sold to the United States all of its possessions in America, comprising an area of more than 500,000 square miles, equal in extent to France, Germany, and Great Britain, stretching from 54° 40´ north latitude5 to the Arctic Ocean. The sum paid was about seven and a quarter millions of dollars. In this purchase is included Mount St. Elias, the highest peak in North America, rising to a height of more than 18,000 feet, and one of the loftiest single peaks on the globe. The real value of this new acquisition was quite unknown to both buyer and seller. In the southern part, and on the islands, there is considerable vegetation and forests of large trees; and it is said that there is some mineral wealth. But the greater part of the territory is essentially6 Arctic. It now bears the designation of the Territory of Alaska, an abbreviation of Aliaska, the name of the peninsula stretching into the North Pacific Ocean.
Little information has as yet been gained of this region. The most important is the result of a journey up the River Yukon, performed in 1866 by Mr. Frederick Whymper, an artist connected with the Telegraph Expedition. This telegraph enterprise was undertaken in the confident expectation that the cables278 laid directly across the Atlantic would fail, and that telegraphic communications between London and New York must be mainly by land. The proposed line, starting from the mouth of the Amoor, to which point it was already constructed, should bend around the head of the Sea of Okotsch, thence run eastward7 and northward8 through Kamchatka to the 63d degree of north latitude, then cross the narrow Strait of Bering, and run southward through what was then Russian America, British Columbia, Washington Territory, and Oregon, to San Francisco; thence across the American continent to New York. A dispatch from London to New York by this route would travel something more than 25,000 miles, while the distance in a straight line across the Atlantic was about 3000 miles. The company undertaking9 this enterprise had surveyed a considerable part of the distance, and expended10 some millions of dollars, when it was announced that the Atlantic cable was a success, and the work was abandoned.
In the mean while Mr. Whymper undertook a trip up the great River Yukon. This is essentially an Arctic river, though its mouth is far southward of the Arctic Circle. It is probably the greatest of the Arctic rivers, and in length and volume of water is exceeded by not more than six rivers of the globe.
The party of which Mr. Whymper was one consisted of six Europeans and three Indians. In October, 1865, they started from Unalachleet, on Norton Sound. A trip of 200 miles would bring them to Nulato, a Russian trading-post 700 miles from the mouth of the river, which here runs almost parallel with the coast.
They were to travel on foot over frozen rivers and through deep snow. To convey their supplies they had four sledges12, each drawn13 by five dogs. Such a team will draw about 350 pounds. The dogs of this region are not of a good class. Mr. Whymper thinks they have in them quite as much of the wolf as of the dog. Their usual food is fish; their regular daily allowance in winter is a dried salmon14 a day: in summer they are expected to fish for themselves. They will, however, eat almost any thing, and, if they can get enough, will grow fat upon it. They even took kindly15 to beans, provided they were boiled soft—a thing which Kane could never induce his Esquimaux dogs to undertake.
They set out on the 27th of October at 11 o’clock—that is, just after sunrise—the thermometer standing16 at 30° below freezing-point. Their trip was begun a little too early, for the deep snow had not become packed hard, and a bit of thaw17 would transform it into slush; and the streams which they had to cross were not all frozen over. Fortunately, they had a light skin boat, which not only stood them in good stead now, but served them afterwards for more than a thousand miles of winter travel. Whenever they came to a frozen stream, the Indians would break a hole through the ice to get a draught18 of water. They always filled up the hole with loose snow, through which they sucked the water. This they said was to filter out the little red worms with which they said the water was infested19.
The travellers wore snow-shoes; the use of which, although indispensable in going over the soft snow, is very fatiguing20, obliging the wearers to lift a dozen pounds of snow at every step. Sometimes they had to break a path for the279 sledges. The men would go on ahead for a space, then return and start on again, thus traversing the distance three times. Often they could not accomplish more than ten miles a day.
102. THE FROZEN YUKON.
At noon on the 11th of November, a fortnight after starting, they caught in the distance a glimpse of a faint bluish streak21, varying the white monotony280 of the scene. This they knew marked the course of the great river towards which they were tending. Pushing eagerly on, at sunset they broke out of the woods, shot down a steep bank, and stood on an immense plain of snow-covered ice. It was the Yukon, frozen solidly over as far as the eye could reach, except that here and there was a faint streak of open water. From bank to bank the distance was more than a mile, and this they afterwards found was the normal breadth of the river for seven hundred miles below, and a thousand miles above. Not unfrequently it spread out into broad lagoons22 four or five miles wide. The Yukon is one of the great rivers of the globe. In length and volume of water it is exceeded only by the Amazon, the Mississippi, and perhaps the Plata. It exceeds the Nile, the Ganges, the Volga, the Amoor, and has affluents23 to which the Rhine and Rhone are but brooks24. It rises far within the British Possessions, and its head-waters almost interlock with those of the Mackenzie, which empties into the Arctic Ocean. A portage of only eighty miles intervenes between these rivers at points where each is navigable for boats forty feet long, and drawing two feet of water. Over this portage the Hudson’s Bay Company transport upon men’s backs the goods for trading with the Indians on the Upper Yukon. Mr. Whymper thinks that a flat-bottomed stern-wheel steamer, like those used on the Upper Mississippi, could ascend25 the Yukon for eighteen hundred miles, and tap the whole fur-bearing region. But as the river is frozen solid for eight months out of the twelve, the steamer could hardly make more than one trip a year.
103. UNDER-GROUND HOUSE.
The travellers stopped two days at the Indian winter village of Coltog. The houses were built mainly under-ground. First, a little shanty26 is put up, under which a hole like a well is dug; thence a branch like a sewer27 runs some yards, along which one must crawl on hands and knees to reach the proper dwelling28, which is a square hole in the earth, over which is raised a low dome-shaped roof, with a hole in the top to let out the smoke of the fire, which is built directly underneath29. When the fire gets low the smoke-hole is covered with a skin, which keeps in not only the heat but the manifold scents30 engendered31 by the crowded occupancy. The slight heat from below makes the roof a favorite trysting-place for the dogs, and every now and then one comes tumbling down through the smoke-hole upon the fire below, adding the odor of singed32 hair to those arising from stale fish, old skin garments, and other unnamable abominations. Coltog is a rather favorable sample of an Indian winter village in Alaska.
From Coltog the travellers proceeded up the river two days’ journey to Nulato, the most northern and most inland of the Russian Company’s fur-posts.281 It stands in latitude 65°, and longitude33 158°, upon a level slip of land bounded on two sides by the great river and one of its main branches. Notwithstanding the high latitude, trees of considerable size grow there, and during the brief summer the grass is luxuriant, and berries abound34. The post is a little fortress35, surrounded by a picket36, which is closed at night to exclude the Indians, who camp around in large numbers. The house appropriated to the travellers was built of logs, forming one side of the little square. The windows were of seal-gut instead of glass; and as there is during the winter only two or three hours of daylight, the light was never any of the best. By caulking37 the floor with moss38, and carpeting it with skins, the main room was kept comfortably warm, except near the floor. If one hung a damp garment from the rafters it would steam at the top, while frozen stiff at the bottom. The temperature at the roof was sometimes 65°, while near the floor it was 4°. Water for daily use was hauled on a sledge11 from the river. To get at it, they were obliged to break through solid ice four feet thick. Nevertheless, the Indians contrive39 to catch immense quantities of fish by constructing a weir40 of wicket-work, and keeping holes open in the ice.
104. FISH-TRAPS ON THE YUKON.
Winter fairly set in soon after the party had taken up their abode41 at Nulato. On the 2d of November the thermometer indicated the moderate temperature of 2° above zero. It suddenly fell to 20° below zero, and kept on steadily42 falling until the 5th of December, when it sunk to 58° below zero, that is, ninety degrees below the freezing-point of water. This was the coldest day, but there were during December and January eleven days when the thermometer sunk below the freezing-point of mercury. It is to be noted43 that after a certain point the human system seems to take little additional note of the temperature as indicated by the thermometer. When the mercury froze, 72° below the freezing-point of water, it did not seem very cold, provided there was no wind; while one day when the thermometer was 44° higher, we find this note: “A north wind blew, and made us feel the cold very decidedly. It is wonderful how searching the wind is in this northern climate; each little seam, slit44, or282 tear in your fur or woollen clothing makes you aware of its existence, and one’s nose, ears, and angles generally are the special sufferers.” One day when the thermometer stood at 10°, an expedition started off for the coast: and once when it was at 32°, a half-clad Indian came to the post with his child, no better clad, bringing some game; he did not seem to think the day remarkably45 cold. The shortest day of the winter was December 21, when the sun was an hour and fifty minutes above the horizon.
105. AURORA1 AT NULATO.
During the winter Mr. Whymper made many capital sketches46 out-of-doors, while the temperature was sixty degrees below freezing-point. Among these283 is a remarkable47 aurora borealis on the 21st of December. It was not the conventional arch, but a graceful48, undulating, ever-changing snake of pale electric light; evanescent colors, pale as those of a lunar rainbow, ever and again flitting through it, and long streamers and scintillations moving upward to the bright stars, which shone distinctly through its hazy49 ethereal form. The night284 was beautifully calm and clear; cold, but not intensely so, the thermometer standing at +16°.
So passed the long winter months. Early in April there came signs of summer—for in the Arctic regions there is properly no spring or autumn. On the 9th flies made their appearance. Next day the willows50 were seen budding. But for another fortnight the weather was variable. On the 28th the first goose put in his appearance. But for another fortnight the ice in the river remained unbroken. The first sign of breaking up was on the 12th of May. That day mosquitoes showed themselves. Next day came swallows and wild geese in abundance. Still another fortnight, during which a steady stream of broken ice came down, bearing with it whole trees torn up from the banks. On the 24th of May the river was tolerably clear of ice.
106. BREAKING UP OF THE ICE.
The Russians had already got ready for a trading-excursion up the Yukon to an Indian trading-place 240 miles above, the farthest point ever visited by them. They had a huge skin boat, fitted with mast and sail, manned by eight men, carrying, besides men and provisions, two tons of goods. The Americans went with them, though meaning to go far beyond. They had their own little boat, laden51 with six or seven hundred pounds of stores of all kinds. The river was still full of ice and drift-wood. A large tree would sometimes pass under the bow of the Russian boat, and fairly lift it out of the water. These skin boats seem to be the best of all for this kind of navigation. They give way without harm to a blow which would break through a bark canoe.
One can scarcely conceive the rapidity with which summer comes on in these regions. On the 27th of May the river was yet full of ice. Ten days after they had to lie by during the noontide heat, the thermometer standing at 80° in the shade.
The Americans reached Fort Yukon on the 9th of June, having, in twenty-nine days, rowed and tracked six hundred miles. A few weeks later, with the current in their favor, they descended52 the same space in seven days. Fort Yukon lies a little within what was formerly53 Russian America, and the Hudson’s Bay Company paid a small sum for the privilege of its occupancy. Here the Americans remained a month, being hospitably54 entertained. The fort had quite a civilized55 look. There were freshly-plastered walls, glazed56 windows, open fireplaces, magazines, store-houses, and a great fur-room. Camped around were Indians of many tribes, locally designated as “Foolish Folks,” “Wood Folks,” “Birch-bark Folks,” “Rat Folks,” “Hill Folks,” and the like. Some wore their native costumes; others were tricked out in the odds57 and ends of civilized attire58. The fur-room was a rare sight. From the beams hung marten-skins by the thousand, while the cheaper sorts were lying in huge heaps on the floor. Skins are here the regular currency. The beaver59 is the unit, estimated at about half a dollar. Two martens count as one beaver, and so on by a recognized scale. Fox-skins are numerous. The most valuable is that of the black fox, worth twenty times more than any other. There is a story that an unlucky employé of the company once bought the skin of a white fox, which the Indian seller had cunningly dyed black, paying for it more pounds than he should have paid shillings. The overplus was deducted60 from his salary.
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107. FORT YUKON.
On the 8th of July the travellers started on their return journey, under a salute61 from their hospitable62 hosts. They canoed down the river day and night, only stopping two or three times a day to prepare their tea and cook their fish. It was a holiday excursion, the current sweeping63 them along at the rate of four miles an hour. Once, by aid of rowing, they made forty-five miles in seven hours. They followed the river clear to its mouth. For the seven hundred miles below Nulato, near where they had struck the river on their upward journey, the region is comparatively poor. It lies out of the way of traders; fish are plenty and cheap enough. Five needles were considered a fair price286 for a thirty-pound salmon; and, says Mr. Whymper, “tobacco went farther than we had ever known it to do before.” On the 23d of July they reached the mouth of the river, whence two days’ sailing up the coast brought them to St. Michael’s. The whole voyage of 1300 miles between Fort Yukon and St. Michael’s had taken fifteen and a half days. At St. Michael’s they were told that the telegraphic enterprise had been abandoned, and that all employed in it were to return to California.
108. A DEER CORRAL.
The result of this expedition adds considerably64 to our knowledge of the287 Arctic regions. It confirms what has been told us by Richardson, Kane, Hall, and all other Arctic explorers as to the superabundance of animal life existing in certain seasons in the northern regions. Strange as it may seem, tropical and semi-tropical countries are almost bare of living creatures. Strain and his party wandered for weeks through the thick forests of Central America, never seeing an animal, and rarely a bird, and the river appeared to be almost destitute65 of fish. But life abounds66 in the Arctic regions. The rivers swarm67 with fish almost begging to be caught. The Kamchatdales have reindeer68 by the thousand. Whymper and his friends, during their brief stay at Nulato, bought the skins of eight hundred white hares with which to cover their blankets; the Indians had used the flesh for food. Moose-meat, varied69 by beaver, is the standing food of those who have got tired of salmon. The delicacies70 are a moose’s nose and a beaver’s tail. So abundant are the moose on the Yukon that the natives think it hardly worth while to waste powder and shot in killing71 them. When an Indian in his canoe comes upon a moose swimming in the water, he gives chase until the creature is fatigued72, and then stabs it to the heart with his knife. They have also an ingenious way of corralling deer. They build a long elliptical inclosure of stakes upon a trail made by the deer. Between each pair of stakes is a slip-noose. A herd73 of deer is driven into this inclosure; they try to run out between the stakes, get caught by the nooses74, and so fall a ready prey75 to the guns of the hunters.
109. LIP ORNAMENTS.
The native population of Alaska is estimated at about 60,000. From the southern boundary up to Mount St. Elias and on the islands live the Koloschians, estimated at 20,000. They are of middling stature76, of copper-colored complexion77, with round faces, thick lips, and black hair. The men wear various ornaments in their ears and noses; the women, when young, insert a piece of ivory in a slit made in the under lip, increasing it in size from year to year, until at last the ornament2 gets to be four inches wide, projecting six inches from the side of the face. The baidars or canoes of the Koloschians are dug out of a single tree, and will carry from twelve to fifty persons. They are usually propelled by paddles, though upon long voyages they are rigged with two or more masts and sails of matting or canvas. They, and indeed all of the tribes, do not bury their dead, but deposit their remains78 in an oblong box raised upon posts, with the canoe and other possessions of the deceased over the box.
110. A BAIDAR.
Next northward of the Koloschians come the Kenaians, who stretch almost288 across the continent to Hudson’s Bay. Those living upon the Yukon call them Co-yukons, that is, People of the Great River, “Yukon” in their language signifying river. They are much feared by the surrounding tribes, and have often given no little trouble to their Russian masters. Many of these wear a bone ornament stuck through the septum of the nose.
111. FOUR-POST COFFIN.
289 The Aleuts, who inhabit the Aleutian Islands are, to a considerable extent, of mixed blood, Russian and Koloschian. They have advanced in civilization far beyond any other of the Esquimaux race. Not a few of them have received a fair education, and among the priests of the Greek Church there are not a few who go through the service of the church in the Greek language, with a full understanding of the words of the service.
112. TANANA INDIAN.
Quite nine-tenths of the whole territory of Alaska is purely79 Arctic, and is not only uninhabited but uninhabitable. The other tenth is now sparsely80 inhabited, and there is little reason to suppose that the population will ever be greatly beyond its present number. Except in special cases, the possible population of a country is measured by its agricultural capacity. Leaving out of view the extreme northern parts of Alaska, the best accounts as yet accessible show that at St. Michael’s lettuce81, parsnips, and turnips82 can be raised by sowing them in beds. At Fort Yukon potatoes not much larger than cherries can be raised. At Sitka potatoes will grow a little larger. On some of the islands the inhabitants can even venture upon barley83. The forest-trees, which flourish in isolated84 parts, will soon be exhausted85, as far as any profitable use of them is concerned. Fish and furs constitute almost the sole value of Alaska. The fisheries are among the most valuable in the world. The furs will soon be exhausted, unless prompt measures are taken to prevent the capture of fur-bearing animals in the breeding season.
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1 aurora | |
n.极光 | |
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2 ornament | |
v.装饰,美化;n.装饰,装饰物 | |
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3 ornaments | |
n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 );点缀;装饰品;首饰v.装饰,点缀,美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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4 coffin | |
n.棺材,灵柩 | |
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5 latitude | |
n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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6 essentially | |
adv.本质上,实质上,基本上 | |
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7 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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8 northward | |
adv.向北;n.北方的地区 | |
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9 undertaking | |
n.保证,许诺,事业 | |
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10 expended | |
v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 );使用(钱等)做某事;用光;耗尽 | |
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11 sledge | |
n.雪橇,大锤;v.用雪橇搬运,坐雪橇往 | |
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12 sledges | |
n.雪橇,雪车( sledge的名词复数 )v.乘雪橇( sledge的第三人称单数 );用雪橇运载 | |
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13 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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14 salmon | |
n.鲑,大马哈鱼,橙红色的 | |
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15 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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16 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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17 thaw | |
v.(使)融化,(使)变得友善;n.融化,缓和 | |
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18 draught | |
n.拉,牵引,拖;一网(饮,吸,阵);顿服药量,通风;v.起草,设计 | |
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19 infested | |
adj.为患的,大批滋生的(常与with搭配)v.害虫、野兽大批出没于( infest的过去式和过去分词 );遍布于 | |
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20 fatiguing | |
a.使人劳累的 | |
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21 streak | |
n.条理,斑纹,倾向,少许,痕迹;v.加条纹,变成条纹,奔驰,快速移动 | |
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22 lagoons | |
n.污水池( lagoon的名词复数 );潟湖;(大湖或江河附近的)小而浅的淡水湖;温泉形成的池塘 | |
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23 affluents | |
n.富裕的,富足的( affluent的名词复数 ) | |
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24 brooks | |
n.小溪( brook的名词复数 ) | |
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25 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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26 shanty | |
n.小屋,棚屋;船工号子 | |
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27 sewer | |
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28 dwelling | |
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29 underneath | |
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30 scents | |
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31 engendered | |
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32 singed | |
v.浅表烧焦( singe的过去式和过去分词 );(毛发)燎,烧焦尖端[边儿] | |
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33 longitude | |
n.经线,经度 | |
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34 abound | |
vi.大量存在;(in,with)充满,富于 | |
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35 fortress | |
n.堡垒,防御工事 | |
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36 picket | |
n.纠察队;警戒哨;v.设置纠察线;布置警卫 | |
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37 caulking | |
n.堵缝;敛缝;捻缝;压紧v.堵(船的)缝( caulk的现在分词 );泥…的缝;填塞;使不漏水 | |
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38 moss | |
n.苔,藓,地衣 | |
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39 contrive | |
vt.谋划,策划;设法做到;设计,想出 | |
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40 weir | |
n.堰堤,拦河坝 | |
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41 abode | |
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42 steadily | |
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43 noted | |
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44 slit | |
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45 remarkably | |
ad.不同寻常地,相当地 | |
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46 sketches | |
n.草图( sketch的名词复数 );素描;速写;梗概 | |
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47 remarkable | |
adj.显著的,异常的,非凡的,值得注意的 | |
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48 graceful | |
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49 hazy | |
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50 willows | |
n.柳树( willow的名词复数 );柳木 | |
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51 laden | |
adj.装满了的;充满了的;负了重担的;苦恼的 | |
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52 descended | |
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53 formerly | |
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54 hospitably | |
亲切地,招待周到地,善于款待地 | |
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55 civilized | |
a.有教养的,文雅的 | |
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56 glazed | |
adj.光滑的,像玻璃的;上过釉的;呆滞无神的v.装玻璃( glaze的过去式);上釉于,上光;(目光)变得呆滞无神 | |
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57 odds | |
n.让步,机率,可能性,比率;胜败优劣之别 | |
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58 attire | |
v.穿衣,装扮[同]array;n.衣着;盛装 | |
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59 beaver | |
n.海狸,河狸 | |
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60 deducted | |
v.扣除,减去( deduct的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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61 salute | |
vi.行礼,致意,问候,放礼炮;vt.向…致意,迎接,赞扬;n.招呼,敬礼,礼炮 | |
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62 hospitable | |
adj.好客的;宽容的;有利的,适宜的 | |
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63 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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64 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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65 destitute | |
adj.缺乏的;穷困的 | |
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66 abounds | |
v.大量存在,充满,富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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67 swarm | |
n.(昆虫)等一大群;vi.成群飞舞;蜂拥而入 | |
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68 reindeer | |
n.驯鹿 | |
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69 varied | |
adj.多样的,多变化的 | |
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70 delicacies | |
n.棘手( delicacy的名词复数 );精致;精美的食物;周到 | |
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71 killing | |
n.巨额利润;突然赚大钱,发大财 | |
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72 fatigued | |
adj. 疲乏的 | |
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73 herd | |
n.兽群,牧群;vt.使集中,把…赶在一起 | |
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74 nooses | |
n.绞索,套索( noose的名词复数 ) | |
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75 prey | |
n.被掠食者,牺牲者,掠食;v.捕食,掠夺,折磨 | |
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76 stature | |
n.(高度)水平,(高度)境界,身高,身材 | |
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77 complexion | |
n.肤色;情况,局面;气质,性格 | |
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78 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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79 purely | |
adv.纯粹地,完全地 | |
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80 sparsely | |
adv.稀疏地;稀少地;不足地;贫乏地 | |
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81 lettuce | |
n.莴苣;生菜 | |
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82 turnips | |
芜青( turnip的名词复数 ); 芜菁块根; 芜菁甘蓝块根; 怀表 | |
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83 barley | |
n.大麦,大麦粒 | |
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84 isolated | |
adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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85 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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