In point of dramatic interest, few of the Arctic expeditions can rival the second and last voyage of Dr. Kane, which, to avoid interrupting the narrative6 of the discovery of Franklin’s fate by Dr. Rae and Sir James M’Clintock, I have refrained from mentioning in chronological7 order.
Weak in body, but great in mind, this remarkable8 man, who had accompanied the first Grinnell expedition in the capacity of surgeon, sailed from Boston in 1853, as commander of the “Advance,” with a crew of 17 officers and men, to which two Greenlanders were subsequently added. His plan was to pass up Baffin’s Bay to its most northern attainable9 point, and thence pressing on towards the pole as far as boats or sledges12 could reach, to examine the coast-lines for vestiges14 of Franklin.
Battling with storms and icebergs15, he passed, on August 7, 1853, the rocky portals of Smith’s Sound, Cape Isabella and Cape Alexander, which had been discovered the year before by Inglefield; left Cape Hatherton—the extreme point attained17 by that navigator—behind, and after many narrow escapes from shipwreck18, secured the “Advance” in Rensselaer Bay, from which she Avas destined19 never to emerge. His diary gives us a vivid account of the first winter he spent in this haven20, in lat. 78° 38´, almost as far to the north as the most northern extremity21 of Spitzbergen, and in a far more rigorous climate.
“Sept. 10, +14° F.—The birds have left. The sea-swallows, which abounded22 when we first reached here, and even the young burgomasters that lingered after them, have all taken their departure for the south. The long “night in which no man can work” is close at hand; in another month we shall lose the sun. Astronomically23, he should disappear on October 24, if our horizon were free; but it is obstructed24 by a mountain ridge25; and, making all allowance for refraction, we can not count on seeing him after the 10th.
“Sept. 11.—The long staring day, which has clung to us for more than two months, to the exclusion26 of the stars, has begun to intermit its brightness. Even Aldebaran, the red eye of the bull, flared27 out into familiar recollection as early as ten o’clock; and the heavens, though still somewhat reddened by the gaudy28 tints29 of midnight, gave us Capella and Arcturus, and even that lesser366 light of home memories, the polar star. Stretching my neck to look uncomfortably at the indication of our extreme northernness, it was hard to realize that he was not directly overhead; and it made me sigh as I measured the few degrees of distance that separated our zenith from the pole over which he hung.
“Oct. 28.—The moon has reached her greatest northern declination of about 25° 35´. She is a glorious object; sweeping30 around the heavens, at the lowest part of her curve, she is still 14° above the horizon. For eight days she has been making her circuit with nearly unvarying brightness. It is one of those sparkling nights that bring back the memory of sleigh-bells and songs, and glad communings of hearts in lands that are far away.
“Nov. 7.—The darkness is coming on with insidious31 steadiness, and its advances can only be perceived by comparing one day with its fellow of some time back. We still read the thermometer at noonday without a light, and the black masses of the hills are plain for about five hours, with their glaring patches of snow; but all the rest is darkness. The stars of the sixth magnitude shine out at noonday. Except upon the island of Spitzbergen, which has the advantages of an insular32 climate, and tempered by ocean currents, no Christians33 have wintered in so high a latitude34 as this.19 They are Russian sailors who made the encounter there—men inured35 to hardships and cold. Our darkness has ninety days to run before we shall get back again even to the contested twilight36 of to-day. Altogether our winter will have been sunless for one hundred and forty days.
“Nov. 9.—Wishing to get the altitude of the cliffs on the south-west cape of our bay before the darkness set in thoroughly37, I started in time to reach them with my Newfoundlanders at noonday, the thermometer indicating 23° below zero. Fireside astronomers38 can hardly realize the difficulties in the way of observations at such low temperatures. The breath, and even the warmth of the face and body, cloud the sextant-arc and glasses with a fine hoar-frost. It is, moreover, an unusual feat40 to measure a base-line in the snow at 55° below freezing.
“Nov. 21.—We have schemes innumerable to cheat the monotonous41 solitude42 of our winter—a fancy ball; a newspaper,’The Ice Blink;’ a fox-chase round the decks.
“Dec. 15.—We have lost the last vestige13 of our midday twilight. We can not see print, and hardly paper; the fingers can not be counted a foot from the eyes. Noonday and midnight are alike; and, except a vague glimmer43 in the sky that seems to define the hill outlines to the south, we have nothing to tell us that this Arctic world of ours has a sun. In the darkness, and consequent inaction, it is almost in vain that we seek to create topics of thought, and, by a forced excitement, to ward11 off the encroachments of disease.
“Jan. 21.—First traces of returning light, the southern horizon having for a short time a distinct orange tinge44.
“Feb. 21.—We have had the sun for some days silvering the ice between the headlands of the bay, and to-day, towards noon, I started out to be the367 first of my party to welcome him back. It was the longest walk and toughest climb that I have had since our imprisonment45, and scurvy46 and general debility have made me ‘short o’ wind.’ But I managed to attain10 my object. I saw him once more, and upon a projecting crag nestled in the sunshine. It was like bathing in perfumed water.”
Thus this terrible winter night drew to its end, and the time came for undertaking47 the sledge journeys, on which the success of the expedition mainly depended. Unfortunately, of the nine magnificent Newfoundlanders and the thirty-five Esquimaux dogs originally possessed48 by Kane, only six had survived an epizootic malady49 which raged among them during the winter: their number was, however, increased by some new purchases from the Esquimaux who visited the ship at the beginning of April.
Thus scantily50 provided with the means of transport, Kane, though in a very weak condition, set out on April 25, 1854, to force his way to the north. He found the Greenland coast beyond Rensselaer Bay extremely picturesque51, the cliffs rising boldly from the shore-line to a height of sometimes more than a thousand feet, and exhibiting every freak and caprice of architectural ruin. In one spot the sloping rubbish at the foot of the coast-wall led up, like an artificial causeway, to a gorge52 that was streaming at noonday with the southern sun, while everywhere else the rock stood out in the blackest shadow. Just at the edge of this bright opening rose the dreamy semblance53 of a castle, flanked with triple towers, completely isolated54 and defined. These were called the “Three-brother Turrets.”
“Farther on, to the north of latitude 79°, a single cliff of greenstone rears itself from a crumbled55 base of sandstone, like the boldly-chiselled rampart of an ancient city. At its northern extremity, at the brink56 of a deep ravine which has worn its way among the ruins, there stands a solitary57 column or minaret58 tower, as sharply finished as if it had been cast for the Place Vendôme. Yet the length of the shaft59 alone is 480 feet, and it rises on a pedestal, itself 280 feet high. I remember well the emotions of my party, as it first broke upon our view. Cold and sick as I was, I brought back a sketch60 of it which may have interest for the reader, though it scarcely suggests the imposing61 dignity of this magnificent landmark62. Those who are happily familiar with the writings of Tennyson, and have communed with his spirit in the solitudes63 of a wilderness64, will apprehend65 the impulse that inscribed66 the scene with his name.”
But no rock formation, however striking or impressive, equalled in grandeur67 the magnificent glacier to which Kane has given the name of Humboldt. Its solid glassy wall, diminishing to a well-pointed wedge in the perspective, rises 300 feet above the water-level, with an unknown, unfathomable depth below it and its curved face sixty miles in length—from Cape Agassiz to Cape Forbes—vanishes into unknown space at not more than a single day’s railroad travel from the pole.
In spite of the snow, which had so accumulated in drifts that the travellers were forced to unload their sledges and carry forward the cargo68 on their backs, beating a path for the dogs to follow in, Kane came in sight of the Great Glacier368 on May 4; but this progress was dearly earned, as it cost him the last remnant of his strength.
“I was seized with a sudden pain,” says the intrepid69 explorer, “and fainted. My limbs became rigid70, and certain obscure tetanoid symptoms of our winter enemy, the scurvy, disclosed themselves. I was strapped71 upon the sledge, and the march continued as usual, but my powers diminished so rapidly that I could not resist the otherwise comfortable temperature of 5° below zero. My left foot becoming frozen caused a vexatious delay, and the same night it became evident that the immovability of my limbs was due to dropsical effusion. On the 5th, becoming delirious72 and fainting every time that I was taken from the tent to the sledge, I succumbed73 entirely74. My comrades would kindly75 persuade me that, even had I continued sound, we could not have proceeded on our journey. The snows were very heavy, and increasing as we went; some of the drifts perfectly76 impassable, and the level floes often four feet deep in yielding snow.
“The scurvy had already broken out among the men, with symptoms like my own, and Morton, our strongest man, was beginning to give way. It is the reverse of comfort to me that they shared my weakness. All that I should remember with pleasurable feeling is that to my brave companions, themselves scarcely able to travel, I owe my preservation78.
“They carried me back by forced marches. I was taken into the brig on the 14th, where for a week I lay fluctuating between life and death. Dr. Hayes regards my attack as one of scurvy, complicated by typhoid fever.”
Fortunately summer was now fast approaching, with his cheering sunbeams and his genial79 warmth. The seals began to appear on the coast in large numbers, and there was now no want of fresh meat, the chief panacea80 against the scurvy. The snow-buntings returned to the ice-crusted rocks, and the gulls81 and eider-ducks came winging their way to their northern breeding-places.
Vegetation likewise sprang into life with marvellous rapidity, and the green sloping banks not only refreshed the eye, but yielded juicy, anti-scorbutic herbs.
Kane’s health slowly but steadily82 improved. He was, however, obliged to give up all further sledge excursions for the season, and to leave the execution of his plans to his more able-bodied companions.
Thus Dr. Hayes, crossing the sound in a north-easterly direction, reached the opposite coast of Grinnell Land, which he surveyed as far as Cape Frazer in lat. 70° 45´.
This journey was rendered uncommonly83 slow and tedious by the excessively broken and rugged84 character of the ice. Deep cavities filled with snow intervened between lines of hummocks85 frequently exceeding twenty or thirty feet in height. Over these the sledge had to be lifted by main strength, and it required the most painful efforts of the whole party to liberate86 it from the snow between them. Dr. Hayes returned on June 1, and a few days later Morton left the brig, to survey the Greenland coast beyond the Great Glacier. The difficulties were great, for, besides the usual impediments of hummocks, the lateness of the season had in many places rendered the ice extremely unsafe, or even entirely destroyed the ice-ledge along the shore. Thus for the last days of369 his onward87 journey he was obliged to toil88 over the rocks and along the beach of a sea which, like the familiar waters of the south, dashed in waves at his feet. Morton and his companion Hans, the Esquimaux, reached on June 26, 1854, Cape Constitution, a bold headland, where the surf rolled furiously against high overhanging cliffs, which it was found impossible to pass. Climbing from rock to rock, in hopes of doubling the promontory89, Morton stood at this termination of his journey, and from a height of 300 feet looked out upon a great waste of waters, stretching to the unknown north. Numerous birds—sea-swallows, kittiwakes, brent-geese—mixed their discordant90 notes with the novel music of dashing waves; and among the flowering plants growing on the rocks was found a crucifer (Hesperis pygmæa), the dried pods of which, still containing seed, had survived the wear and tear of winter. From Cape Constitution the coast of Washington Land trended to the east, but far to the north-west, beyond the open waters of the channel, a peak, terminating a range of mountains similar in their features to those of Spitzbergen, was seen towering to a height of from 2500 to 3000 feet. This peak, the most remote northern land at that time known upon our globe, received the name of Mount Parry.
Meanwhile the short summer was wearing on, and, as far as the eye could reach, the ice remained inflexibly91 solid. It was evident that many days must still elapse before the vessel93 could possibly be liberated—but then most likely winter would almost have returned—a dismal94 prospect95 for men who knew by experience the long fearful night of the 79° of latitude, and who, broken in health and with very insufficient96 supplies of provisions and fuel, were but ill armed for a second encounter. No wonder that many of Kane’s companions thought it better to abandon the vessel than to tarry any longer in those frozen solitudes.
But though it was horrible to look another winter in the face, the resolution of Kane could not be shaken. On August 24, when the last hope of seeing the vessel once more afloat had vanished, he called the officers and crew together, and explained to them frankly97 the considerations which determined98 him to remain. To abandon the vessel earlier would have been unseemly, and to reach Upernavik so late in the season was next to impossible. To such of them, however, as were desirous of making the attempt, he freely gave his permission so to do, assuring them of a brother’s welcome should they be driven back. He then directed the roll to be called, and each man to answer for himself. In result, eight out of the seventeen survivors99 of the party resolved to stand by the brig. The others left on the 28th, with every appliance which the narrow circumstances of the brig could furnish to speed and guard them. When they disappeared among the hummocks, the stern realities of their condition pressed themselves with double force on those whom they left behind.
The reduced numbers of the party, the helplessness of many, the waning100 efficiency of all, the impending101 winter, with its cold, dark nights, the penury102 of their resources, the dreary103 sense of increased isolation—all combined to depress them. But their energetic leader, leaving them no time for these gloomy thoughts, set them actively104 to work to make the best possible preparations they could for the long cold night to come.
370 He had carefully studied the Esquimaux, and determined that their form of habitations and their mode of diet, without their unthrift and filth106, were the safest and best that could be adopted. The deck was well padded with moss107 and turf, so as to form a nearly cold-proof covering, and, down below, a space some eighteen feet square—the apartment of all uses—was inclosed and packed from floor to ceiling with inner walls of the same non-conducting material. The floor itself, after having been carefully caulked108, was covered with Manilla oakum a couple of inches deep and a canvas carpet. The entrance was from the hold, by a low moss-lined tunnel, with as many doors and curtains to close it up as ingenuity109 could devise. Large banks of snow were also thrown up along the brig’s sides to keep off the cold wind.
All these labors111 in the open air wonderfully improved the health of the exiles, and their strength increased from day to day. A friendly intercourse112 was opened with the Esquimaux of the winter settlements of Etah and Anoatok, distant some thirty and seventy miles from the ship, who, for presents of needles, pins, and knives, engaged to furnish walrus113 and fresh seal meat, and to show the white men where to find the game. Common hunting-parties were organized, visits of courtesy and necessity paid, and even some personal attachments114 established deserving of the name. As long as the Americans remained prisoners of the ice, they were indebted to their savage115 friends for invaluable116 counsel in relation to their hunting expeditions, and in the joint117 hunt they shared alike.
The Esquimaux gave them supplies of meat at critical periods, and they were able to do as much for them. In one word, without the natives, Kane and his companions would most likely have succumbed to the winter, and the Esquimaux on their part learned to look on the strangers as benefactors118, and mourned their departure bitterly.
On December 12 the party which had abandoned the ship returned, having been unable to penetrate119 to the south, and was received, as had been promised, with a brotherly welcome. They had suffered bitterly from the cold, want of food, and the fatigues120 of their march among the hummocks.
“The thermometer,” says Kane, “was at -50°; they were covered with rime121 and snow, and were fainting with hunger. It was necessary to use caution in taking them below; for, after an exposure of such fearful intensity122 and duration as they had gone through, the warmth of the cabin would have prostrated123 them completely. They had journeyed three hundred and fifty miles; and their last run from the bay near Etah, some seventy miles in a right line, was through the hummocks at this appalling124 temperature. One by one they all came in and were housed. Poor fellows! as they threw open their Esquimaux garments by the stove, how they relished125 the scanty126 luxuries which we had to offer them! The coffee, and the meat-biscuit soup, and the molasses, and the wheat bread, even the salt pork, which our scurvy forbade the rest of us to touch—how they relished it all! For more than two months they had lived on frozen seal and walrus meat.”
Thus Kane, by his determination not to abandon the ship, proved the saviour127 of all his comrades; for what would have become of them had he been less firm371 in his resolution, or if his courage had failed him during the trials of that dreadful winter?
“February closes,” says the heroic explorer; “thank God for the lapse92 of its twenty-eight days! Should the thirty-one of the coming March not drag us farther downward, we may hope for a successful close to this dreary drama. By April 10 we should have seals; and when they come, if we remain to welcome them, we can call ourselves saved. But a fair review of our prospects128 tells me that I must look the lion in the face. The scurvy is steadily gaining on us. I do my best to sustain the more desperate cases, but as fast as I partially129 build up one, another is stricken down. Of the six workers of our party, as I counted them a month ago, two are unable to do out-door work, and the remaining four divide the duty of the ship among them. Hans musters130 his remaining energies to conduct the hunt. Petersen is his disheartened, moping assistant. The other two, Bonsall and myself, have all the daily offices of household and hospital. We chop five large sacks of ice, cut six fathoms131 of eight-inch hawser132 into junks of a foot each, serve out the meat when we have it, hack133 at the molasses, and hew134 out with crowbar and axe135 the pork and dried apples; pass up the foul4 slop and cleansings of our dormitory, and, in a word, cook, scullionize, and attend the sick. Added to this, for five nights running I have kept watch from 8 P.M. to 4 A.M., catching136 such naps as I could in the day without changing my clothes, but carefully waking every hour to note thermometers.”
With March came an increase of sufferings. Every man on board was tainted137 with scurvy, and there were seldom more than three who could assist in caring for the rest. The greater number were in their bunks138, absolutely unable to stir. Had Kane’s health given way, the whole party, deprived of its leading spirit, must inevitably139 have perished.
To abandon the ship was now an absolute necessity, for a third winter in Rensselaer Bay would have been certain death to all; but before the boats could be transported to the open water, many preparations had to be made, and most of the party were still too weak to move. The interval140 was employed by Kane in an excursion with his faithful Esquimaux to the Great Glacier.
At length on May 20, 1855, the entire ship’s company bade farewell to the “Advance,” and set out slowly on their homeward journey. It was in the soft, subdued141 light of a Sunday evening, June 17, that after hauling their boats with much hard labor110 through the hummocks, they stood beside the open sea-way. But fifty-six days had still to pass before they could reach the port of Upernavik. Neither storms nor drift-ice rendered this long boat-journey dangerous, but they had to contend with famine, when they at length reached the open bay, and found themselves in the full line of the great ice-drift to the Atlantic, in boats so unseaworthy as to require constant bailing142 to keep them afloat. Their strength had decreased to an alarming degree; they breathed heavily; their feet were so swollen143 that they were obliged to cut open their canvas boots; they were utterly144 unable to sleep, and the rowing and bailing became hourly more difficult.
It was at this crisis of their fortunes that they saw a large seal floating—as372 is the custom of these animals—on a small patch of ice, and seemingly asleep. “Trembling with anxiety,” says Kane, “we prepared to crawl down upon him. Petersen, with a large English rifle, was stationed in the bow, and stockings were drawn145 over the oars146 as mufflers. As we neared the animal, our excitement became so intense that the men could hardly keep stroke. He was not asleep, for he reared his head when we were almost within rifle-shot; and to this day I can remember the hard, careworn147, almost despairing expression of the men’s thin faces as they saw him move; their lives depended on his capture. I depressed148 my hand nervously149, as a signal for Petersen to fire. M’Gary hung upon his oar39, and the boat slowly, but noiselessly surging ahead, seemed to me within certain range. Looking at Petersen, I saw that the poor fellow was paralyzed by his anxiety, trying vainly to obtain a rest for his gun against the cut-water of the boat. The seal rose on his fore16 flippers, gazed at us for a moment with frightened curiosity, and coiled himself for a plunge150. At that instant, simultaneously151 with the crack of our rifle, he relaxed his long length on the ice, and, at the very brink of the water, his head fell helpless to one side. I would have ordered another shot, but no discipline could have controlled the men. With a wild yell, each vociferating according to his own impulse, they urged their boats upon the floes. A crowd of hands seized the seal and bore him up to safer ice. The men seemed half crazy. I had not realized how much we were reduced by absolute famine. They ran over the floe77, crying and laughing, and brandishing152 their knives. It was not five minutes before every man was sucking his bloody153 fingers, or mouthing long strips of raw blubber. Not an ounce of this seal was lost.”
Within a day or two another seal was shot, and from that time forward they had a full supply of food.
When Kane, after an absence of thirty months, returned on October 11, 1855, to New York, he was enthusiastically received. Well-deserved honors of all sorts awaited him on both sides of the Atlantic; but his health, originally weak, was completely broken by the trials of his journey, and on February 16, 1857, he died at the Havana, in the thirty-seventh year of his age. In him the United States lost one of her noblest sons, a true hero, whose name will ever shine among the most famous navigators of all times and of all nations.
In 1860, Dr. Hayes, who had accompanied Kane on his journey, once more sailed from America for the purpose of completing the survey of Kennedy’s Channel, and, if possible, of pushing on to the pole itself. After several narrow escapes from ice-fields and icebergs, his schooner154, the “United States,” was at length compelled to take up her winter-quarters at Port Foulke, on the Greenland coast, about twenty miles in latitude to the south of Rensselaer Harbor. Thanks to an abundant supply of fresh meat (for the neighborhood abounded with reindeer), and also no doubt to the inexhaustible fund of good-humor which prevailed in the ship’s company, they passed the winter without suffering from the scurvy; but most of the dogs on which Dr. Hayes relied for his sledge expeditions in the ensuing spring were destroyed by the same epidemic155 which had been so fatal to the teams of Dr. Kane. Fortunately some fresh dogs could be purchased and borrowed of the friendly Esquimaux, and thus,373 early in April, 1861, Dr. Hayes left the schooner, to plunge into the icy wilderness. Having previously156 ascertained157 that an advance along the Greenland shore was utterly impossible, he resolved to cross the sound, and to try his fortunes along the coast of Grinnell Land. Of the difficulties which he had to encounter his own words will give the best idea.
“By winding158 to the right and left, and by occasionally retracing159 our steps when we had selected an impracticable route, we managed to get over the first few miles without much embarrassment160, but farther on the tract161 was rough past description. I can compare it to nothing but a promiscuous162 accumulation of rocks closely packed together and piled up over a vast plain in great heaps and endless ridges163, leaving scarcely a foot of level surface. The interstices between these closely accumulated ice-masses are filled up, to some extent, with drifted snow. The reader will readily imagine the rest. He will see the sledges winding through the tangled164 wilderness of broken ice-tables, the men and dogs pulling and pushing up their respective loads. He will see them clambering over the very summit of lofty ridges, through which there is no opening, and again descending165 on the other side, the sledge often plunging166 over a precipice167, sometimes capsizing and frequently breaking. Again he will see the party baffled in their attempt to cross or find a pass, breaking a track with shovel168 and handspike, or again, unable even with these appliances to accomplish their end, they retreat to seek a better track; and they may be lucky enough to find a sort of gap or gateway169, upon the winding and uneven170 surface of which they will make a mile or so with comparative ease. The snow-drifts are sometimes a help, and sometimes a hinderance. Their surface is uniformly hard, but not always firm to the foot. The crust frequently gives way, and in a most tiresome171 and provoking manner. It will not quite bear the weight, and the foot sinks at the very moment when the other is lifted. But, worse than this, the chasms172 between the hummocks are frequently bridged over with snow in such a manner as to leave a considerable space at the bottom quite unfilled; and at the very moment when all looks promising173, down sinks one man to his middle, another to the neck, another is buried out of sight; the sledge gives way, and to extricate174 the whole from this unhappy predicament is probably the labor of hours. It would be difficult to imagine any kind of labor more disheartening, or which would sooner sap the energies of both men and animals. The strength gave way gradually; and when, as often happened after a long and hard day’s work, we could look back from our eminence175 and almost fire a rifle-ball into our last snow-hut, it was truly discouraging.”
No wonder that after thus toiling176 on for twenty-five days they had not yet reached half-way across the sound, and that they were all broken down. But their bold leader was fully105 determined not to abandon his enterprise while still the faintest hope of success remained, and, sending the main party back to the schooner, he continued to plunge into the hummocks with three picked companions—Jensen, M’Donald, Knorr—and fourteen dogs. After fourteen days of almost superhuman exertion177 the sound was at length crossed, and now began a scarcely less harassing178 journey along the coast. On the fifth day Jensen, the strongest man of the party, completely broke down, and leaving him to the374 charge of M’Donald, Dr. Hayes now pushed on with Knorr alone, until, on May 18, he reached the border of a deep bay, where farther progress to the north was stopped by rotten ice and cracks. Right before him, on the opposite side of the frith, rose Mount Parry, the lofty peak first seen by Morton in 1854 from the shores of Washington Land; and farther on, a noble headland, Cape union—the most northern known land upon the globe—stood in faint outline against the dark sky of the open sea. Thus Dr. Hayes divides the honor of extreme northern travel with Parry.
On July 12 the “United States” was released from her icy trammels, and Dr. Hayes once more attempted to reach the opposite coast and continue his discoveries in Grinnell Land, but the schooner was in too crippled a state to force her way through the pack-ice which lay in her course, and compelled her commander to return to Boston.
Thus ended this remarkable voyage; but having done so much, Dr. Hayes is eager, and resolved, to do still more. Fully convinced by his own experience that men may subsist179 in Smith’s Sound independent of support from home, he proposes to establish a self-sustaining colony at Port Foulke, which may be made the basis of an extended exploration. Without any second party in the field to co-operate with him, and under the most adverse180 circumstances, he, by dint181 of indomitable perseverance182, pushed his discoveries a hundred miles farther to the north and west than his predecessors183; and it is surely not over-sanguine184 to expect that a party better provided with the means of travel may be able to traverse the 480 miles at least which intervene between Mount Parry and the pole. The open sea which both Morton and himself found beyond Kennedy Channel gives fair promise of success to a strong vessel that may reach it after having forced the ice-blocked passage of Smith’s Sound, or, should this be impracticable, to a boat transported across the sound and then launched upon its waters.
Captain Sherard Osborne, who is likewise a warm partisan185 of this route, has been endeavoring to interest Government in its favor; but in the opinion of other scientific authorities an easier passage seems open to the navigator who may attempt to reach the pole by way of Spitzbergen. To the east of this archipelago the Gulf186 Stream rolls its volume of comparatively warm water far on to the north-east, and possibly sweeps round the pole itself. It was to the north of Spitzbergen that Parry reached the latitude of 82° 45´; and in 1837 the “Truelove,” of Hull,20 sailed through a perfectly open sea in 82° 30´ N., 15° E., and, had she continued her course, might possibly have reached the pole as easily as the high latitude which she had already attained.
The distinguished187 geographer188, Dr. Augustus Petermann, who warmly advocates the route between Spitzbergen and Greenland, has, by dint of perseverance, succeeded in collecting among his countrymen the necessary funds for a reconnoitring voyage in this direction. Thanks to his exertions189, May 24, 1868, witnessed the departure of a small ship of eighty tons, the “Germania,” Captain Koldewey, from the port of Bergen, for Shannon Island (75° 14´ N. lat.), the highest point on the east coast of Greenland attained by Sabine in 1823. Here the attempt to explore the unknown Arctic seas beyond was to begin; but,375 meeting with enormous masses of drift-ice on her repeated endeavors to penetrate to the north-east, the “Germania” has been obliged to return, after reaching the high latitude of 81° 5´, and accurately190 surveying a small part of the Greenland coast hitherto but imperfectly explored. An expedition on a more extensive scale is to renew the attempt in 1869.
A third route to the pole is no less strenuously191 recommended by M. Gustave Lambert, a French hydrographer, who, having sailed through Bering’s Strait in a whaler in 1865, is persuaded that this is the right way to reach the problematical open North Sea, which, once attained, promises a free passage to the navigator. Liberal subscriptions192 have been raised in Paris for the accomplishment193 of his plan, and an expedition under his command will most probably set out in 1869.
Thus, after so many illustrious navigators have vainly endeavored to reach the pole, sanguine projectors194 are still as eager as ever to attain the goal; nor is it probable that man will ever rest in his efforts until every attainable region of the Arctic Ocean shall have been fully explored.
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sledge
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| n.雪橇，大锤；v.用雪橇搬运，坐雪橇往 | |
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turrets
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| （六角）转台( turret的名词复数 )； （战舰和坦克等上的）转动炮塔； （摄影机等上的）镜头转台； （旧时攻城用的）塔车 | |
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glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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4
foul
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| adj.污秽的；邪恶的；v.弄脏；妨害；犯规；n.犯规 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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6
narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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7
chronological
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| adj.按年月顺序排列的，年代学的 | |
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8
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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9
attainable
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| a.可达到的，可获得的 | |
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10
attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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11
ward
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| n.守卫，监护，病房，行政区，由监护人或法院保护的人（尤指儿童）；vt.守护，躲开 | |
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12
sledges
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| n.雪橇，雪车( sledge的名词复数 )v.乘雪橇( sledge的第三人称单数 )；用雪橇运载 | |
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13
vestige
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| n.痕迹，遗迹，残余 | |
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14
vestiges
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| 残余部分( vestige的名词复数 )； 遗迹； 痕迹； 毫不 | |
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15
icebergs
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| n.冰山，流冰( iceberg的名词复数 ) | |
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16
fore
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| adv.在前面；adj.先前的；在前部的；n.前部 | |
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17
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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18
shipwreck
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| n.船舶失事，海难 | |
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19
destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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20
haven
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| n.安全的地方，避难所，庇护所 | |
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21
extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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22
abounded
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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23
astronomically
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| 天文学上 | |
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24
obstructed
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| 阻塞( obstruct的过去式和过去分词 )； 堵塞； 阻碍； 阻止 | |
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25
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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26
exclusion
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| n.拒绝，排除，排斥，远足，远途旅行 | |
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27
Flared
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| adj. 端部张开的, 爆发的, 加宽的, 漏斗式的 动词flare的过去式和过去分词 | |
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28
gaudy
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| adj.华而不实的；俗丽的 | |
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29
tints
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| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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30
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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31
insidious
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| adj.阴险的，隐匿的，暗中为害的，（疾病）不知不觉之间加剧 | |
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32
insular
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| adj.岛屿的，心胸狭窄的 | |
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33
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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34
latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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35
inured
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| adj.坚强的，习惯的 | |
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36
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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37
thoroughly
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|
| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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38
astronomers
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| n.天文学者，天文学家( astronomer的名词复数 ) | |
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39
oar
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| n.桨，橹，划手；v.划行 | |
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40
feat
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| n.功绩；武艺，技艺；adj.灵巧的，漂亮的，合适的 | |
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41
monotonous
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|
| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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42
solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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43
glimmer
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| v.发出闪烁的微光；n.微光，微弱的闪光 | |
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44
tinge
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| vt.(较淡)着色于，染色；使带有…气息；n.淡淡色彩，些微的气息 | |
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45
imprisonment
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| n.关押，监禁，坐牢 | |
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46
scurvy
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| adj.下流的，卑鄙的，无礼的；n.坏血病 | |
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47
undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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48
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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49
malady
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|
| n.病，疾病(通常做比喻) | |
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50
scantily
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| adv.缺乏地；不充足地；吝啬地；狭窄地 | |
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51
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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52
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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53
semblance
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| n.外貌，外表 | |
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54
isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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55
crumbled
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|
| （把…）弄碎， （使）碎成细屑( crumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 衰落； 坍塌； 损坏 | |
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56
brink
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| n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘，边沿 | |
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57
solitary
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|
| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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58
minaret
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| n.（回教寺院的）尖塔 | |
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59
shaft
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| n.(工具的)柄，杆状物 | |
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60
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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61
imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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62
landmark
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|
| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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63
solitudes
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|
| n.独居( solitude的名词复数 )；孤独；荒僻的地方；人迹罕至的地方 | |
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64
wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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65
apprehend
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|
| vt.理解，领悟，逮捕，拘捕，忧虑 | |
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66
inscribed
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|
| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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67
grandeur
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|
| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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68
cargo
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| n.(一只船或一架飞机运载的)货物 | |
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69
intrepid
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|
| adj.无畏的，刚毅的 | |
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70
rigid
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|
| adj.严格的，死板的；刚硬的，僵硬的 | |
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71
strapped
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|
| adj.用皮带捆住的，用皮带装饰的；身无分文的；缺钱；手头紧v.用皮带捆扎(strap的过去式和过去分词)；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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72
delirious
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|
| adj.不省人事的，神智昏迷的 | |
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73
succumbed
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|
| 不再抵抗（诱惑、疾病、攻击等）( succumb的过去式和过去分词 )； 屈从； 被压垮； 死 | |
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74
entirely
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|
| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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75
kindly
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|
| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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76
perfectly
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|
| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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77
floe
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| n.大片浮冰 | |
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78
preservation
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|
| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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79
genial
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|
| adj.亲切的，和蔼的，愉快的，脾气好的 | |
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80
panacea
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|
| n.万灵药；治百病的灵药 | |
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81
gulls
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| n.鸥( gull的名词复数 )v.欺骗某人( gull的第三人称单数 ) | |
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82
steadily
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|
| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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83
uncommonly
|
|
| adv. 稀罕(极，非常) | |
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84
rugged
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|
| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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85
hummocks
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|
| n.小丘，岗( hummock的名词复数 ) | |
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86
liberate
|
|
| v.解放，使获得自由，释出，放出；vt.解放，使获自由 | |
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87
onward
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|
| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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88
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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89
promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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90
discordant
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|
| adj.不调和的 | |
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91
inflexibly
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|
| adv.不屈曲地，不屈地 | |
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92
lapse
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|
| n.过失，流逝，失效，抛弃信仰，间隔；vi.堕落，停止，失效，流逝；vt.使失效 | |
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93
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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94
dismal
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|
| adj.阴沉的，凄凉的，令人忧郁的，差劲的 | |
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95
prospect
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|
| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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96
insufficient
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|
| adj.(for，of)不足的，不够的 | |
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97
frankly
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|
| adv.坦白地，直率地；坦率地说 | |
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98
determined
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|
| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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99
survivors
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| 幸存者，残存者，生还者( survivor的名词复数 ) | |
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100
waning
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|
| adj.（月亮）渐亏的，逐渐减弱或变小的n.月亏v.衰落( wane的现在分词 )；（月）亏；变小；变暗淡 | |
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101
impending
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| a.imminent, about to come or happen | |
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102
penury
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| n.贫穷，拮据 | |
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103
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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104
actively
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| adv.积极地，勤奋地 | |
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105
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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106
filth
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| n.肮脏，污物，污秽；淫猥 | |
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107
moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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108
caulked
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| v.堵（船的）缝( caulk的过去式和过去分词 )；泥…的缝；填塞；使不漏水 | |
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109
ingenuity
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|
| n.别出心裁；善于发明创造 | |
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110
labor
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|
| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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111
labors
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|
| v.努力争取(for)( labor的第三人称单数 )；苦干；详细分析；（指引擎）缓慢而困难地运转 | |
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112
intercourse
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|
| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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113
walrus
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| n.海象 | |
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114
attachments
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|
| n.（用电子邮件发送的）附件( attachment的名词复数 )；附着；连接；附属物 | |
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115
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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116
invaluable
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| adj.无价的，非常宝贵的，极为贵重的 | |
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117
joint
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| adj.联合的，共同的；n.关节，接合处；v.连接，贴合 | |
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118
benefactors
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| n.捐助者，施主( benefactor的名词复数 )；恩人 | |
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119
penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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120
fatigues
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|
| n.疲劳( fatigue的名词复数 )；杂役；厌倦；（士兵穿的）工作服 | |
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121
rime
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| n.白霜；v.使蒙霜 | |
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122
intensity
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| n.强烈，剧烈；强度；烈度 | |
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123
prostrated
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|
| v.使俯伏，使拜倒( prostrate的过去式和过去分词 )；（指疾病、天气等）使某人无能为力 | |
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124
appalling
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|
| adj.骇人听闻的，令人震惊的，可怕的 | |
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125
relished
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| v.欣赏( relish的过去式和过去分词 )；从…获得乐趣；渴望 | |
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126
scanty
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|
| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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127
saviour
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| n.拯救者，救星 | |
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128
prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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129
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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130
musters
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| v.集合，召集，集结（尤指部队）( muster的第三人称单数 )；（自他人处）搜集某事物；聚集；激发 | |
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131
fathoms
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| 英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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132
hawser
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| n.大缆；大索 | |
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133
hack
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| n.劈，砍，出租马车；v.劈，砍，干咳 | |
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134
hew
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| v.砍；伐；削 | |
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135
axe
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| n.斧子；v.用斧头砍，削减 | |
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136
catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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137
tainted
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| adj.腐坏的；污染的；沾污的；感染的v.使变质( taint的过去式和过去分词 )；使污染；败坏；被污染，腐坏，败坏 | |
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138
bunks
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| n.（车、船等倚壁而设的）铺位( bunk的名词复数 )；空话，废话v.（车、船等倚壁而设的）铺位( bunk的第三人称单数 )；空话，废话 | |
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139
inevitably
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| adv.不可避免地；必然发生地 | |
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140
interval
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| n.间隔，间距；幕间休息，中场休息 | |
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141
subdued
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| adj. 屈服的，柔和的，减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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142
bailing
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| （凿井时用吊桶）排水 | |
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143
swollen
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| adj.肿大的，水涨的；v.使变大，肿胀 | |
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144
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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145
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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146
oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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147
careworn
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| adj.疲倦的，饱经忧患的 | |
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148
depressed
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| adj.沮丧的，抑郁的，不景气的，萧条的 | |
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149
nervously
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| adv.神情激动地，不安地 | |
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150
plunge
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| v.跳入，(使)投入，(使)陷入；猛冲 | |
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151
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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152
brandishing
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| v.挥舞( brandish的现在分词 )；炫耀 | |
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153
bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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154
schooner
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| n.纵帆船 | |
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155
epidemic
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| n.流行病；盛行；adj.流行性的，流传极广的 | |
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156
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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157
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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158
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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159
retracing
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| v.折回( retrace的现在分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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embarrassment
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| n.尴尬；使人为难的人(事物)；障碍；窘迫 | |
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161
tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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162
promiscuous
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| adj.杂乱的，随便的 | |
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163
ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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164
tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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165
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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166
plunging
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| adj.跳进的，突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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167
precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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168
shovel
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| n.铁锨，铲子，一铲之量；v.铲，铲出 | |
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169
gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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170
uneven
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| adj.不平坦的，不规则的，不均匀的 | |
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171
tiresome
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| adj.令人疲劳的，令人厌倦的 | |
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172
chasms
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| 裂缝( chasm的名词复数 )； 裂口； 分歧； 差别 | |
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173
promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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174
extricate
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| v.拯救，救出；解脱 | |
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175
eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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176
toiling
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| 长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的现在分词 )； 艰难缓慢地移动，跋涉 | |
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177
exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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178
harassing
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| v.侵扰，骚扰( harass的现在分词 )；不断攻击（敌人） | |
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179
subsist
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| vi.生存，存在，供养 | |
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180
adverse
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| adj.不利的；有害的；敌对的，不友好的 | |
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181
dint
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| n.由于，靠；凹坑 | |
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182
perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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183
predecessors
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| n.前任( predecessor的名词复数 )；前辈；（被取代的）原有事物；前身 | |
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184
sanguine
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| adj.充满希望的，乐观的，血红色的 | |
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185
partisan
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| adj.党派性的；游击队的；n.游击队员；党徒 | |
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186
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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187
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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188
geographer
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| n.地理学者 | |
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189
exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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190
accurately
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| adv.准确地，精确地 | |
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191
strenuously
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| adv.奋发地，费力地 | |
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192
subscriptions
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| n.（报刊等的）订阅费( subscription的名词复数 )；捐款；（俱乐部的）会员费；捐助 | |
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193
accomplishment
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| n.完成，成就，（pl.）造诣，技能 | |
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194
projectors
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| 电影放映机，幻灯机( projector的名词复数 ) | |
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