Its desolate1 Character—The Mule2 is here the ‘Ship of the Desert.’—A Shipwreck3 and its Consequences—Sand-Spouts—Medanos—Summer and Winter—The Garuas—The Lomas—Change produced in their Appearance during the Season of Mists—Azara’s Fox—Wild Animals—Birds—Reptiles—The Chincha or Guano Islands.
Between the Cordilleras to the east and the Pacific to the west extends, from 3° to 21° S. lat., 540 leagues long and from 3 to 20 leagues broad, a desert coast, the picture of death and desolation. Traversed by spurs of the mighty4 mountain-chain, which either gradually sink into the plain, or form steep promontories5 washed by the ocean, it rises and falls in alternate heights and valleys, where the eye seldom sees anything but fine drift-sand or sterile6 heaps of stone.
Only where, at considerable intervals7, some rivulet8, fed by a glacier9 or a small mountain lake, issues from the ravines of the Andes to lose itself after a short course in the Pacific, green belts, like the oases10 of the African desert, break the general monotony, and appear more charming from the contrast with the nakedness of the surrounding waste. The planter carefully husbands the last drop of water from those scanty12 streams; for, as the tribes31 of the Sahara can only, by dint13 of constant industry, preserve their date-palm islands against the waves of the surrounding sand-sea, thus also the inhabitant of the Peruvian coast can only by perpetual irrigation protect his plantations14 from the encroachments of the neighbouring desert! But the fruits which he reaps and garners15 are very different from those which are produced by the African oasis16; for, while none of the plants of the Peruvian sand-coast has ever found its way to the Sahara, the sycamores and tamarinds of the latter are equally unknown on the eastern shores of the Pacific. Cotton and sugar, maize17 and batatas, manioc and bananas, here take the place of the date-palm of the Arab, and thrive only so far as the limits of irrigation extend.
In the surrounding wastes, where for miles and miles the traveller meets no traces of vegetation, and finds not one drop of water, the mule performs the part of the African camel; for, satisfied with a scantier18 food than the horse, it more easily supports the fatigues19 of a prolonged journey through the sand, and in Peru is fully11 entitled to be called the ship of the desert. The horse cannot support hunger and thirst longer than forty-eight hours without becoming so weak as hardly to be able to carry its rider; and if the latter is imprudent enough to urge it on to a more rapid pace, it falls a victim to his obstinacy21, as it will obey the spur until it sinks never to rise again. Not so the mule, which, on feeling itself unable to advance, stands still, and will not move an inch until it has rested for a time; after which it willingly continues its journey. Yet, in spite of these excellent qualities, many mules22 succumb23 to the fatigues and privations of the desert; and as in the Sahara the caravan-routes are marked by camel-skeletons, so here long rows of mule-skulls and bones point out the road along the Peruvian sand-coast. Woe24 to him whom a shipwreck casts on these desolate shores; for he is almost inevitably25 doomed26 to destruction!
In general, a healthy man can withstand hunger and thirst during four or five days, but only in a temperate27 climate and when the body is at rest; while in the burning deserts of Peru, the want of water during forty-eight hours, combined with the fatigue20 of wading28 through the deep sands, can only end in death. Thirst can, undoubtedly29, be supported ten times longer in the moist sea-air than in the thoroughly30 desiccated atmosphere of a tropical waste.
32 The dangers of these solitudes32 are increased by the great mobility33 of the soil. When a strong wind blows, huge sand-columns, rising like water-spouts to a height of eighty or a hundred feet, advance whirling through the desert, and suddenly encompass34 the traveller, who can only save himself by a rapid flight. Such is the instability of the soil, that in a few hours a plain will be covered with hillocks or Medanos, and recover after a few days its former level. The most experienced muleteers are thus constantly deceived in their knowledge of the road, and are the first to give way to despair, while seeking to extricate37 themselves from a labyrinth38 of newly-formed medanos. These constant transformations39 and shiftings in the desert, which Tschudi graphically40 calls ‘a life in death,’ take place more particularly in the hot season, when the least pressure of the atmosphere suffices to disturb the dried-up sands, whose weight increases during the winter by the absorption of moisture. The single grains then unite to larger masses, and more easily withstand the pressure of the wind.
The summer, or dry season, begins in November. The rays of the vertical41 sun strike upon the light-coloured sands, and are reflected with suffocating42 power. No plant except the cactuses and tillandsias, which manage to thrive where nothing else exists, takes root in the glowing soil; no animal finds food on the lifeless plain; no bird, no insect, hovers43 or buzzes in the stifling44 atmosphere. Only in the highest regions the condor45, the monarch46 of the air, is seen sailing along in lonely majesty47.
In May, which in these southern latitudes48 corresponds to our October, the scene changes. A thin, misty49 veil extends over the sea and the coast, and, increasing in density50 during the following months, only begins to diminish in October. At the beginning and the end of this damp season the mist generally ascends51 between nine and ten in the morning, and falls again at about three in the afternoon; but in August and September, when it is most dense52, it rests for weeks immovably over the earth, never dissolving in rain, but merely descending54 in a fine, penetrating55 drizzle56, called ‘garua’ by the inhabitants. In many parts rain has not been known to fall for centuries, except only after very severe earthquakes, and even then the phenomenon is not of constant occurrence. The mist seldom ascends to a vertical height of more than 1,200 feet, when it is replaced by violent33 showers of rain; and, remarkably57 enough, the limits between both can be determined58 with almost mathematical precision, as there are plantations, one half of whose surface is invariably moistened by garuas and the other by rain.
When the mists appear, the Lomas, or chains of hills which bound the sand-coast towards the east, begin to assume a new character; and, as if by magic, a garden is seen where but a few days before a desert extended its dreary59 nakedness. Soon also, animal life begins to animate60 the scene, as the Lomeros drive their cattle and horses to these newly-formed pasture-grounds, where for several months they find an abundance of juicy food, but no water. This, however, they do not require, as they always leave the Lomas in the best condition.
In some of the northern coast-districts, situated61 near the equatorial line, where the garuas seldom appear, the fertility of the land depends wholly upon the streams which issue from the mountains. The dew, which along the coasts of central and south Peru hardly moistens the soil to the depth of half an inch, is there so completely wanting, that a piece of paper exposed to the air during the night shows no sign of moisture in the morning; and so thoroughly does the dryness of the soil prevent putrefaction62, that after 300 years the mummified corpses63 are still found unaltered, which the ancient Peruvians buried in a sitting posture64.
Thus the aridity65 of the Sahara repeats itself in these American deserts, and is in some measure owing to the same cause, though their geographical66 position to the west of the Andes, whose eastern slopes absorb all the moisture of the prevailing67 trade-winds, chiefly accounts for their nakedness. Rain is wanting, as there is no vegetation of any great extent to condense the passing vapours; and, on the other hand, the want of moisture prevents plants from rooting on the unstable68 soil.
A glance at the animal world of the Peruvian coast shows us the same poverty of species as in the great African desert. A fox (Canis Azaræ) seems here to play the part of the hyæna and the jackal; and is found both in the cotton-plantations along the streams, and in the Lomas, where he is destructive to the young lambs. The large American felidæ, the puma69, and the jaguar70, seldom appear on the coast, where they attain71 a more considerable size than in the mountains. The cowardly34 puma is afraid of man; while the bloodthirsty jaguar penetrates72 into the plantations, where he lies in wait for the oxen and horses, and avoids with remarkable73 sagacity, the manifold traps and pitfalls74 that are laid for him by the hacienderos.
In the cultivated districts Opossums are found among the low bushes, in deserted75 dwellings76, or in storerooms; armadillos (Dasypus tatuay) are sometimes shot in the fields, and wild hogs77 of an enormous size infest78 the thickets79 near some of the plantations.
OPOSSUM.
Instead of the antelope80 and the gazelle of the African deserts, the Venado, a species of deer, makes its appearance on the Peruvian coast. It chiefly lives in the low bushes, which are scattered81 here and there, and after sunset visits the cultivated fields where it causes considerable damage.
Besides the numerous sea- and strand-birds, the carrion82 vultures and the condor, often found in large numbers feasting upon the marine83 animals that have been cast ashore84, are the most conspicious among the feathered tribes of the coast. A small falcon85 (Falco sparverius) is likewise often seen, and a small burrowing86 owl36 (Athene cunicularia) haunts almost every ruinous building. The pearl-owl (Strix perlata), performing the useful services of our own barn-owl, is protected and encouraged in many plantations, as it thins the ranks of the mice. Swallows are scarce; nor do they build their nests on the houses, but on solitary87 walls, far from the habitations of man.
Among the singing birds, the beautiful crowned fly-catcher (Myoarchus coronatus) is one of the most remarkable. Its head, breast and belly88 are of a burning red; its wings and back blackish brown. It always sits upon the highest top of the bushes, flies vertically89 upwards90, whirls about a short time singing in the air, and then again descends91 in a straight line upon its former resting-place. Some tanagras and parrots, and two starling-like birds, the red-breasted picho and the lustrous92 black chivillo, that are frequently kept in cages on account of their agreeable song, are found in the coast-valleys; and various pigeons, among others the neat little turtuli and the more stately cuculi, frequent the neighbourhood of the plantations.
35 Among the lizard93 tribes large and brilliantly green iguanas94 are found on the southern coast; but much more frequently dull and sombre agamas lurk95 among the rocks and stones. Snakes, both venomous and harmless, are in general tolerably rare, and occur both in the fruitful lands and the sand-plains.
The animated96 sea-shore forms a striking contrast to the death-like solitude31 of the interior. Troops of carrion vultures gather about the large marine animals cast ashore by the surf; numerous strand-birds are greedily on the look-out for the shell-fish left by the retreating tide, or for the crabs97 and sea-spiders that everywhere draw their furrows98 about the beach; and sea-otters and seals sun themselves on the cliffs along the whole coast, except in the neighbourhood of the seaports99 where they have been extirpated100 or driven away by incessant101 persecutions.
To the north of Chancay, steep sand-hills rise to the height of 300 or 400 feet, abruptly102 verging103 to the sea. The road leading along the side of these hills, would be extremely dangerous but for the unstable nature of the soil. For though at each false step the mule slides with his rider towards the sea, it is very easy for him to regain104 his footing on the yielding sand. A large stone on one of these hills bears a striking resemblance to a sleeping sea-lion, and almost perpendicularly105 beneath it lies a little cove35, inhabited by a number of seals. At night the bark of these animals, mixing with the hollow roar of the breakers, fills the traveller with a kind of involuntary terror.
Myriads106 of sea-birds breed on the small islands along the coast or swarm107 about the bays, where the fish supply them with abundant food. The number of these birds, a matter formerly108 of only local interest, is now a subject of general importance, as to them are owing the deep guano beds which have converted the sterile Chincha Islands5 into mines of wealth.
The want of rain, which renders the greatest part of the Peruvian coast so utterly109 barren, is of the utmost advantage for the production of the guano; for if the Chincha Islands, like the Orkneys or the Hebrides, had been exposed to frequent storms, or washed by unceasing showers, they would have been mere53 naked rocks, instead of affording the richest deposits of manure110 the world can boast of.
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1
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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shipwreck
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| n.船舶失事，海难 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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promontories
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| n.岬，隆起，海角( promontory的名词复数 ) | |
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sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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8
rivulet
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| n.小溪，小河 | |
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glacier
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| n.冰川，冰河 | |
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oases
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| n.（沙漠中的）绿洲( oasis的名词复数 )；（困苦中）令人快慰的地方（或时刻）；乐土；乐事 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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dint
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| n.由于，靠；凹坑 | |
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plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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garners
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| v.收集并（通常）贮藏（某物），取得，获得( garner的第三人称单数 ) | |
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oasis
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| n.（沙漠中的）绿洲，宜人的地方 | |
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maize
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| n.玉米 | |
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18
scantier
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| adj.（大小或数量）不足的，勉强够的( scanty的比较级 ) | |
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fatigues
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| n.疲劳( fatigue的名词复数 )；杂役；厌倦；（士兵穿的）工作服 | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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21
obstinacy
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| n.顽固；（病痛等）难治 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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23
succumb
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| v.屈服，屈从；死 | |
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24
woe
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| n.悲哀，苦痛，不幸，困难；int.用来表达悲伤或惊慌 | |
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25
inevitably
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| adv.不可避免地；必然发生地 | |
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26
doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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27
temperate
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| adj.温和的，温带的，自我克制的，不过分的 | |
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28
wading
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的现在分词 ) | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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31
solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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solitudes
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| n.独居( solitude的名词复数 )；孤独；荒僻的地方；人迹罕至的地方 | |
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33
mobility
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| n.可动性，变动性，情感不定 | |
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encompass
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| vt.围绕，包围；包含，包括；完成 | |
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cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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owl
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| n.猫头鹰，枭 | |
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37
extricate
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| v.拯救，救出；解脱 | |
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labyrinth
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| n.迷宫；难解的事物；迷路 | |
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39
transformations
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| n.变化( transformation的名词复数 )；转换；转换；变换 | |
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40
graphically
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| adv.通过图表；生动地，轮廓分明地 | |
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41
vertical
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| adj.垂直的，顶点的，纵向的；n.垂直物，垂直的位置 | |
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42
suffocating
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| a.使人窒息的 | |
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43
hovers
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| 鸟( hover的第三人称单数 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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stifling
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| a.令人窒息的 | |
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45
condor
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| n.秃鹰；秃鹰金币 | |
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46
monarch
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| n.帝王，君主，最高统治者 | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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latitudes
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| 纬度 | |
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49
misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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50
density
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| n.密集，密度，浓度 | |
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51
ascends
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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52
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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53
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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54
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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55
penetrating
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| adj.（声音）响亮的，尖锐的adj.（气味）刺激的adj.（思想）敏锐的，有洞察力的 | |
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56
drizzle
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| v.下毛毛雨；n.毛毛雨，蒙蒙细雨 | |
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57
remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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58
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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59
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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animate
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| v.赋于生命，鼓励；adj.有生命的，有生气的 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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putrefaction
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| n.腐坏，腐败 | |
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corpses
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| n.死尸，尸体( corpse的名词复数 ) | |
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posture
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| n.姿势，姿态，心态，态度；v.作出某种姿势 | |
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aridity
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| n.干旱，乏味；干燥性；荒芜 | |
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geographical
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| adj.地理的；地区(性)的 | |
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prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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unstable
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| adj.不稳定的，易变的 | |
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69
puma
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| 美洲豹 | |
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jaguar
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| n.美洲虎 | |
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71
attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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penetrates
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| v.穿过( penetrate的第三人称单数 )；刺入；了解；渗透 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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pitfalls
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| （捕猎野兽用的）陷阱( pitfall的名词复数 )； 意想不到的困难，易犯的错误 | |
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deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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dwellings
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| n.住处，处所( dwelling的名词复数 ) | |
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hogs
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| n.（尤指喂肥供食用的）猪( hog的名词复数 )；（供食用的）阉公猪；彻底地做某事；自私的或贪婪的人 | |
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78
infest
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| v.大批出没于；侵扰；寄生于 | |
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thickets
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| n.灌木丛( thicket的名词复数 )；丛状物 | |
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antelope
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| n.羚羊；羚羊皮 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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carrion
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| n.腐肉 | |
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83
marine
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| adj.海的；海生的；航海的；海事的；n.水兵 | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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falcon
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| n.隼，猎鹰 | |
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86
burrowing
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| v.挖掘（洞穴），挖洞( burrow的现在分词 )；翻寻 | |
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87
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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belly
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| n.肚子，腹部；(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分，膛 | |
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vertically
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| adv.垂直地 | |
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90
upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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lustrous
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| adj.有光泽的；光辉的 | |
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93
lizard
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| n.蜥蜴，壁虎 | |
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94
iguanas
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| n. 美洲蜥蜴 名词iguana的复数形式 | |
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95
lurk
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| n.潜伏，潜行；v.潜藏，潜伏，埋伏 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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97
crabs
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| n.蟹( crab的名词复数 )；阴虱寄生病；蟹肉v.捕蟹( crab的第三人称单数 ) | |
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98
furrows
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| n.犁沟( furrow的名词复数 )；（脸上的）皱纹v.犁田，开沟( furrow的第三人称单数 ) | |
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99
seaports
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| n.海港( seaport的名词复数 ) | |
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100
extirpated
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| v.消灭，灭绝( extirpate的过去式和过去分词 )；根除 | |
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101
incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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102
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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103
verging
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| 接近，逼近（verge的现在分词形式） | |
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104
regain
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| vt.重新获得，收复，恢复 | |
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perpendicularly
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| adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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106
myriads
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| n.无数，极大数量( myriad的名词复数 ) | |
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107
swarm
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| n.(昆虫)等一大群；vi.成群飞舞；蜂拥而入 | |
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108
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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manure
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| n.粪，肥，肥粒；vt.施肥 | |
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