Upon returning to the depot at the Burr, I decided2 upon making an excursion to the north-east, to ascertain3 the actual termination of Flinders range, and the nature of the prospect4 beyond it; not to satisfy myself, for a single glance from the eminence5 I had recently occupied at Mount Serle, had for ever set my curiosity at rest on these points, but in discharge of the duty I owed to the Governor, and the promoters of the expedition, who could not be expected to be satisfied with a bare conjecture6 on a subject which they had sent me practically to demonstrate, however fairly from circumstances the conclusions might be deduced at which I had been compelled to arrive. Accordingly, on the morning of the 29th, I took with me my overseer, one man, a native boy, and a cart drawn7 by three horses to carry water; and making an early start, proceeded to attempt for the last time to penetrate8 into those regions of gloom.
After travelling ten miles, we arrived at the Frome, where we watered and fed the horses. From this place I sent the overseer on before us, to see how far the water extended, that we might determine where to fix our halting-place for the night. After resting awhile we proceeded on with the cart, tracing down the watercourse over a very rough and stony9 road on which the cart was upset, but without any serious damage, and passing several very large and fine water-holes with many teal and wood-duck upon them.
At eight miles from where we lunched, we encamped with abundance of water, but very little grass. The latitude10 by meridian11 altitude of Altair was 30 degrees 18 minutes 30 seconds S. In the evening the overseer returned, and stated there was water for nine miles further, but that the road was very rocky and bad.
August 30. — Leaving the overseer to bring on the cart, I rode on a-head down the watercourse to trace the continuance of the water. The road I found to be very bad, and at twenty-three miles, upon tasting the water I found it as salt as the sea, and the bed of the creek12 quite impracticable for a cart; I therefore hurried back for seven miles, and halted the party at the last good water-hole, which was about sixteen miles from our yesterday’s camp.
We had seen many ducks during the day, two of which I shot, and the black boy found a nest with fresh eggs in it, so that we fared more luxuriously13 than usual. The night set in very dark and windy, but no rain fell.
August 31. — This morning I sent the overseer back to the depot with the cart and two horses, whilst I and the native boy proceeded on our route on horseback, taking also a man leading a pack-horse to carry water for us the first day. Following down the watercourse, we passed through some imposing14 scenery, consisting of cliffs from six to eight hundred feet in height, rising perpendicularly15 from their bases, below which were recesses16, into which the sun never shone, and whose gloomy grandeur17 imparted a melancholy18 cast to the thoughts and feelings, in unison19 with the sublimity20 of the scene around.
After travelling twelve miles from the camp, we got clear of the hills, and found an open country before us to the north; through this we proceeded for ten miles further, still following the direction of the watercourse, and halting upon it for the night, after having made a stage of twenty-two miles. We had tolerable grass for the horses, but were obliged to give them water from the kegs.
At this place I was much astonished to see four white cockatoos, flying about among the gum-trees in the watercourse, and immediately commenced a narrow search for water, as I knew those birds did not frequently go far away from it: there was not, however, a drop to be found anywhere, nor the least sign of there having been any for a long time. What made the circumstance of finding cockatoos here so surprising and unusual was, that for the last two hundred miles we had never seen one at all. Where then had these four birds come from? could it be that they had followed under Flinders range from the south, and had strayed so far away from all others of their kind, or had they come from some better country beyond the desert by which I was surrounded, or how was that country to be attained21, supposing it to exist? Time only may reply to these queries22, but the occasion which prompted them was, to say the least, extraordinary.
Towards night the sky became overcast23 with clouds, and as I saw that we should have rain, I set to work with the boy and made a house of boughs24 for our protection, but the man who accompanied us was too indolent to take the same precaution, thinking probably that the rain would pass away as it had often done before. In this, however, he was disappointed, for the rain came down in torrents7 — in an hour or two the whole country was inundated25, and he was taught a lesson of industry at the expense of a thorough and unmitigated drenching26.
7 This will not appear surprising, when the great amount of rain which falls annually27 in some parts of Australia, is taken into account. The Count Strzelecki gives 62.68 inches, as the average annual fall for upwards28 of twenty years, at Port Macquarie. — At p. 193, that gentleman remarks: — ”The greatest fall of rain recorded in New South Wales, during 24 hours, amounted to 25 inches. (Port Jackson).”
September 1. — This morning I sent the man back to the depot with the pack-horse, with orders to the overseer to move back the party as rapidly as possible towards Mount Arden, that by taking advantage of the rain we might make a short route through the plains, and avoid the necessity of going up among the rugged29 and stony watercourses of the hills.
This retrograde movement was rendered absolutely necessary from our present position, for since we had wound through the hills to the north, and come out upon the open plains, I saw that Flinders range had terminated, and I now only wished to trace its northern termination so far east as to enable me to see round it to the southward, as well as to ascertain the character and appearance of the country to the north and to the east; as soon therefore as the man had left, I proceeded at a course of E. 35 degrees N. for a low and very distant elevation30, apparently31 the last of the hills to the eastward32, this I named Mount Distance, for it deceived us greatly as to the distance we were from it.
In passing through the plains, which were yesterday so arid33 and dry, I found immense pools, nay34 almost large reaches of water lodged35 in the hollows, and in which boats might have floated. Such was the result of only an hour or two’s rain, whilst the ground itself, formerly36 so hard, was soft and boggy37 in the extreme, rendering38 progress much slower and more fatiguing39 to the horses than it otherwise would have been. By steadily40 persevering41 we made a stage of thirty-five miles, but were obliged to encamp at night some miles short of the little height I had been steering42 for.
During our ride we passed several dry watercourses at five, ten, twenty-five, thirty, and thirty-five miles from our last encampment. The last we halted upon with good feed for the horses, and rainwater lodged everywhere. All these watercourses took their course to the north, emptying and losing themselves in the plains. In the evening heavy showers again fell, and the night set in very dark.
September 2. — After travelling seven miles we ascended43 Mount Distance, and from it I could see that the hills now bore S. and S.E. and were getting much lower, so that we were rapidly rounding their northern extremity44. To the north and north-east were seen only broken fragments of table lands, similar to what I found near the lake to the north-west; the lake itself, however, was nowhere visible, and I saw that I should have another day’s hard riding before I could satisfactorily determine its direction. Upon descending45 I steered46 for a distant low haycock-like peak in the midst of one of the table-topped fragments; from this rise I expected the view would be decisive, and I named it Mount Hopeless. — From Mount Distance it bore E. 25 degrees N.
Crossing many little stony ridges47, and passing the channel of several watercourses, I discovered a new and still more disheartening feature in the country, the existence of brine springs. Hitherto we had found brackish49 and occasionally salt water in some of the watercourses, but by tracing them up among the hills, we had usually found the quality to improve as we advanced, but now the springs were out in the open plains, and the water poisoned at its very source.
Occasionally round the springs were a few coarse rushes, but the soil in other respects was quite bare, destitute50 of vegetation, and thickly coated over with salt, presenting the most miserable51 and melancholy aspect imaginable. We were now in nearly the same latitude as that in which Captain Sturt had discovered brine springs in the bed of the Darling, and which had rendered even that river so perfectly52 salt that his party could not make use of it.
September 2. — At thirty-five miles we reached the little elevation I had been steering for, and ascended Mount Hopeless, and cheerless and hopeless indeed was the prospect before us. As I had anticipated, the view was both extensive and decisive. We were now past all the ranges; and for three quarters of the compass, extending from south, round by east and north, to west, the horizon was one unbroken level, except where the fragments of table land, or the ridge48 of the lake, interrupted its uniformity
The lake was now visible to the north and to the east; and I had at last ascertained53, beyond all doubt, that its basin, commencing near the head of Spencer’s Gulf54, and following the course of Flinders range (bending round its northern extreme to the southward), constituted those hills the termination of the island of South Australia, for such I imagine it once to have been. This closed all my dreams as to the expedition, and put an end to an undertaking55 from which so much was anticipated. I had now a view before me that would have damped the ardour of the most enthusiastic, or dissipated the doubts of the most seeptical. To the showers that fell on the evening of the 31st of August, we were solely56 indebted for having been able to travel thus far; had there been much more rain the country would have been impracticable for horses, — if less we could not have procured57 water to have enabled us to make such a push as we had done.
The lake where it was visible, appeared, as it had ever done, to be from twenty-five to thirty miles across, and its distance from Mount Hopeless was nearly the same. The hills to the S. and S. W. of us, seemed to terminate on the eastern slopes, as abruptly58 as on the western; and from the point where we stood, we could distinctly trace by the gum-trees, the direction of watercourses emanating59 from among them, taking northerly, north-easterly, easterly and south-easterly courses, according to the point of the range they came from. This had been the case during the whole of our route under Flinder’s range. We had at first found the watercourses going to the south of west, then west, north-west, north, and now north-east, east and south-east. I had, at the same time, observed all around this mountain mass, the appearance of the bed of a large lake, following the general course of the ranges on every side, and receiving, apparently, the whole drainage from them.
On its western, and north-western shores, I had ascertained by actual examination, that its basin was a very low level, clearly defined, and effectually inclosed by an elevated continuous sandy ridge, like the outer boundary of a sea-shore, its area being of immense extent, and its bed of so soft and yielding a nature, as to make it quite impossible to cross it. All these points I had decided positively60, and finally, as far as regards that part of Lake Torrens, from near the head of Spencer’s Gulf, to the most north-westerly part of it, which I visited on the 14th of August, embracing a course of fully61 200 miles in its outline. I had done this, too, under circumstances of great difficulty, toil62, and anxiety, and not without the constant risk of losing my horses, from the fatigues63 and privations of the forced labours I was obliged to impose upon them.
Having ascertained these particulars, and at so much hazard, relative to Lake Torrens, for so great a part of its course, what conclusion could I arrive at with regard to the character of its other half to the north-east, and east of Flinders ranges, as seen from Mount Hopeless, and Mount Serle points, nearly ninety miles apart! The appearances from the ranges were similar; the trend of all the watercourses was to the same basin, and undoubtedly64 that basin, if traced far enough, must be of nearly the same level on the eastern, as on the western side of the ranges. I had completely ascertained that Flinders range had terminated to the eastward, the north-east, and the north; that there were no hills or elevations65 connected with it beyond, in any of these directions, and that the horizon every where was one low uninterrupted level.
With such data, and under such circumstances, what other opinion could I possibly arrive at, than that the bed of Lake Torrens was nearly similar in its character, and equally impracticable in its eastern, as its western arm; and that, considering the difficulties I had encountered, and the hazards I had subjected myself to, in ascertaining66 these points so minutely on the western side, I could not be justified67 in renewing those risks to the eastward, where the nature and extent of the impediments were so self-evidently the same, and where there was not the slightest hope of any useful result being attained by it.
I was now more than a hundred miles away from my party; and having sent them orders to move back towards Mount Arden, I had no time to lose in following them. With bitter feelings of disappointment I turned from the dreary68 and cheerless scene around me, and pushing the horses on as well as circumstances would allow, succeeded in retracing69 ten miles of my course by a little after dark, having completed a stage of fully forty-five miles during the day. Here there was tolerable good grass, and plenty of water from the late rains, so that the horses were more fortunate on this excursion than usual. I observed the variation to be 4 degrees E.
September 3. — Travelling early, we made a long stage of about forty miles, and encamped with good grass and water. During the day we caught four young emus in the plains, which we roasted for supper, being very hungry, and upon short allowance, as I had not calculated upon remaining out so long; the black boy enjoyed them exceedingly, and I managed to get through one myself. They were about the size of full grown fowls70.
September 4. — Making a very early start, we travelled twenty miles to the watercourse, where we had encamped on the 31st of August, striking it a little lower down. As I had left one or two trifles here, that I wished to take on with me, I sent the black boy for them, telling him to follow my tracks while I went slowly on. Upon finding that he did not overtake me so soon as I expected, I halted for some time, but still he did not come up, and I again proceeded; for as I had left my former track, I concluded he had taken that line, and thus missed me. Steering, therefore, across the hills, some of which were very stony and broken, I made for the Mundy, which I reached very late in the evening, and found the party safely encamped there.
I had rode fifty-five miles, and had been on horseback about thirteen hours, so that both myself and horse were well nigh knocked up. The black boy had not arrived, nor did he come up during the night.
The next day, becoming uneasy about his absence, I detained the party in the camp, and sent Mr. Scott to search for him, who fortunately met him almost immediately he had left us. The boy’s detention71 had been occasioned by the fagged condition of his horse, which prevented the possibility of his overtaking me. As the day was wet, I did not move on, but gave the party a day’s rest, whilst I employed myself in meditating72 upon the disappointment I had experienced, and the future steps it might be most advisable to take to carry out the objects of the expedition. I was still determined73 not to give up the undertaking, — but rather to attempt to penetrate either to the eastward or westward74, and to try to find some other line of route that might afford a practicable opening to the interior.
September 6. — Moving on the party early to-day, I pushed steadily towards the depot near Mount Arden. In doing this, the favourable75 state of the weather enabled us to keep more in the open plains, and thus both to avoid a good deal of rough ground, and to shorten the road considerably76.
Upon mustering77 the horses on the 9th, the overseer reported to me that one of them was lying down with a broken leg, and upon going to examine him, I found that it was one of the police horses kindly78 lent to the expedition by the Governor. During the night some other horse had kicked him and broken the thigh79 bone of the hind80 leg. The poor animal was in great pain and unable to rise at all, I was therefore obliged to order the overseer to shoot him. By this accident we lost a most useful horse at a time when we could but ill spare one.
During our progress to the south we had frequently showers and occasionally heavy rains, which lodging81 in puddles82 on the plains, supplied us abundantly with water, and we were unusually fortunate enough to obtain grass also. We were thus enabled to push on upon nearly a straight course, which, after seven days of hard travelling, brought us once more, on the afternoon of the 12th, to our old position at the depot near Mount Arden. I had intended to have halted the party here for a day or two, to recruit after the severe march we had just terminated; but the weather was so favourable and the season so far advanced, that I did not like to lose an hour in following out my prospective83 plans.
During the homeward journey from the Mundy, I had reflected much on the position in which I was placed, and spent many an anxious hour in deliberating as to the future. I had one of three alternatives to choose, either to give up the expedition altogether; — to cross to the Murray to the east and follow up that river to the Darling; — or by crossing over to Streaky Bay to the westward, to endeavour to find some opening leading towards the interior in that direction. After weighing well the advantages and disadvantages of each (and there were many objections to them all,) I determined upon adopting the last, for reasons which will be found in my Report sent to the Governor, and to the Chairman of the Northern Expedition Committee from Port Lincoln. 8 My mind having thus been made up, I knew, from former experience, that I had no time to lose, now that the weather was showery and favourable, and that if I delayed at all in putting my plans into execution I might probably be unable to cross from Mount Arden to Streaky Bay. The distance between these two points was upwards of two hundred miles, through a barren and desert region, in which, though among high ranges, I had on a former occasion been unable to discover any permanent water, and through which we could only hope to pass by taking advantage of the puddles left by the late rains; I therefore decided upon halting at the depot to rest the horses even for a day; and the party had no sooner reached their encampment, than, while one portion of the men took the horses up the watercourse to water, the others were employed in digging up the stores we had buried here, and in repacking and rearranging all the loads ready to move on again immediately. By the evening all the arrangements were completed and the whole party retired84 to rest much fatigued85.
8 Vide Chapter IX.
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1
depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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meridian
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| adj.子午线的；全盛期的 | |
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creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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luxuriously
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| adv.奢侈地，豪华地 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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perpendicularly
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| adv. 垂直地, 笔直地, 纵向地 | |
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recesses
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| n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 )；（工作或业务活动的）中止或暂停期间；学校的课间休息；某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 )；将（墙）做成凹形，在（墙）上做壁龛；休息，休会，休庭 | |
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grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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melancholy
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| n.忧郁，愁思；adj.令人感伤（沮丧）的，忧郁的 | |
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unison
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| n.步调一致，行动一致 | |
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sublimity
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| 崇高，庄严，气质高尚 | |
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attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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queries
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| n.问题( query的名词复数 )；疑问；询问；问号v.质疑，对…表示疑问( query的第三人称单数 )；询问 | |
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overcast
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| adj.阴天的，阴暗的，愁闷的；v.遮盖，（使）变暗，包边缝；n.覆盖，阴天 | |
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boughs
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| 大树枝( bough的名词复数 ) | |
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inundated
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| v.淹没( inundate的过去式和过去分词 )；（洪水般地）涌来；充满；给予或交予（太多事物）使难以应付 | |
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drenching
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| n.湿透v.使湿透( drench的现在分词 )；在某人（某物）上大量使用（某液体） | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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boggy
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| adj.沼泽多的 | |
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rendering
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| n.表现，描写 | |
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fatiguing
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| a.使人劳累的 | |
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steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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persevering
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| a.坚忍不拔的 | |
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steering
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| n.操舵装置 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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steered
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| v.驾驶( steer的过去式和过去分词 )；操纵；控制；引导 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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49
brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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emanating
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| v.从…处传出，传出( emanate的现在分词 )；产生，表现，显示 | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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fatigues
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| n.疲劳( fatigue的名词复数 )；杂役；厌倦；（士兵穿的）工作服 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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elevations
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| （水平或数量）提高( elevation的名词复数 )； 高地； 海拔； 提升 | |
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ascertaining
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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retracing
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| v.折回( retrace的现在分词 )；回忆；回顾；追溯 | |
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fowls
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| 鸟( fowl的名词复数 )； 禽肉； 既不是这； 非驴非马 | |
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detention
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| n.滞留，停留；拘留，扣留；(教育)留下 | |
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meditating
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| a.沉思的，冥想的 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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mustering
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| v.集合，召集，集结（尤指部队）( muster的现在分词 )；（自他人处）搜集某事物；聚集；激发 | |
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kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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thigh
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| n.大腿；股骨 | |
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hind
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| adj.后面的，后部的 | |
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lodging
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| n.寄宿，住所；(大学生的)校外宿舍 | |
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puddles
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| n.水坑， （尤指道路上的）雨水坑( puddle的名词复数 ) | |
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83
prospective
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| adj.预期的，未来的，前瞻性的 | |
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84
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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85
fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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