September 13. — UPON leaving the depot8 this morning I was obliged to leave behind a very large tarpaulin9 which we did not require, and which from the extra weight we had last night put upon the drays, we could not conveniently carry. Steering10 to the south-west we came at twelve miles to the head of Spencer’s Gulf, and crossed the channel connecting it with Lake Torrens. At this place it is not very wide, but its bed like that of the lake is soft and boggy11, with salt water mixed with the mud. We had a good deal of difficulty in getting over it, and one of the drays having stuck fast, we had to unload it, carrying the things over on men’s backs. A few miles beyond this we halted for the night, where there was good grass for the horses and plenty of water in the puddles12 around us. We crossed principally during the day, a rather heavy sandy country, but were now encamped in plains of a firmer and better character for the drays.
September 14. — Travelling on through open plains with loose gravelly stones, lying on their surface, we passed to the south of a small table-topped hill, visible from Mount Arden, and very much resembling the fragments of table land that I had met with to the north. This however was somewhat larger than those, and though steep-sided as they were it did not disclose the same white strata14 of chalk and gypsum, its formation being more rocky and of rather a slaty15 character.
September 15. — Pushing on rapidly over extensive plains very similar to those we had already crossed, we arrived, after a long stage, under Baxter’s range, and encamped upon a small channel coming from it, with abundance of water and good grass. This range is high and rocky, rising abruptly16 out of the plains, and distinctly visible from Mount Arden, from which it is about fifty miles distant. Its formation is entirely17 conglomerate18 of rather a coarse description. Among its rugged19 overhanging steeps are many of the large red species of wallabie similar to those we had seen to the north at the Scott. Two of these we shot. The latitude20 of our camp at Baxter’s range was 32 degrees 40 minutes S.
September 16. — Remained in camp to-day to rest the horses and prepare for dividing the party, as from the great abundance of rain that had fallen, I no longer apprehended21 a scarcity22 of water on the route to Streaky Bay, and therefore decided23 upon sending my overseer across with the party, whilst I myself took a dray down direct to Port Lincoln, on the west side of Spencer’s Gulf, to obtain additional supplies, with the intention of joining them again at Streaky Bay.
Having spent some time in taking bearings from the summit of Baxter’s range, I examined all the channels and gorges24 coming from it, and in most of these I found water. I am of opinion however that in a very dry season, the water which I now found will be quite dried up, and especially in the largest of the watercourses, or the one upon which we were encamped. 9
9 In October 1842, this was quite dry, but water was still found in holes in the rocks in the
A little further south, there is a rocky ravine winding26 through a gorge25 and terminating in a waterfall, with a large pool of beautiful water at the base, and with many large and deep holes of water in the rocks above. In this ravine I imagine water might be procured27 at any period of the year, and I am confirmed in this opinion by the circumstance of three well beaten native roads, coming from different points of the compass, and all converging28 at this place. This is an important position for parties crossing to the westward, or going overland to Port Lincoln. Baxter’s range is the nearest point at which permanent water can be procured on the west side of the head of Spencer’s Gulf, as the Depot creek near Mount Arden is on the eastern. Having completed my examination of the range, and taken all my observations, I spent the remainder of the day in constructing a chart of my former route from Streaky Bay in 1839, and in writing out instructions for the overseer during my absence, as a guide for him in crossing to the westward.
southernmost gorge, above the waterfall, at the base of which water was also procured by digging in the gravel13.
September 17. — Placing under the charge of the overseer, two drays, seven of our best horses, all the sheep, one native boy, and two men, I saw him fairly started this morning, and wished him a speedy and prosperous journey. I had left with me one dray, five horses, one man, one native boy, and Mr. Scott; with fourteen days provision and forty gallons of water. Steering S. 25 degrees W. for sixteen miles, we halted for the night upon a patch of tolerable grass but without any water; I was consequently obliged to give a bucket of water to each of the horses out of the small stock which we had brought with us. The country we travelled through was low, level, and for the most part covered with salsolae, or brush, the latter in some places being very dense, and causing great fatigue29 to the horses in dragging the dray through it.
September 18. — Upon taking a view of the country, this morning, previous to starting, it appeared so low and level, and held out so little prospect30 of our finding water, that I was induced to deviate31 from the course I had laid down, and steering S. 20 degrees E. made for some hills before us. After travelling four miles upon this course, I observed a native fire upon the hills at a bearing of S. 40 degrees E. and immediately turned towards it, fully33 hoping that it was at a native camp and in the immediate32 vicinity of water.
At eight miles we were close under the hills, but found the dray could not cross the front ridges35; I therefore left Mr. Scott to keep a course parallel with the range, whilst I and the native boy rode across to where we had seen the fire. Upon arriving at the spot I was greatly disappointed to find, instead of a native camp, only a few burning bushes, which had either been lit as a signal by the natives, after noticing us in the plains, or was one of those casual fires so frequently left by them on their line of march. I found the hills scrubby, barren, and rocky, with much prickly grass growing upon their slopes. There were no watercourses upon the west side of the range at all, nor could I by tracing up some short rocky valleys coming from steep gorges in the face of the hill find any water. The rock was principally of ironstone formation. Upon ascending36 to the summit of the hill, I had an extensive but unsatisfactory view, a vast level field of scrub stretching every where around me, interspersed37 here and there with the beds of small dried up lakes, but with no signs of water any where. At S. W. by S. I saw the smoke of a native fire rising in the plains. Hurrying down from the range, I followed the dray, and as soon as I overtook it, halted for the night in the midst of a thick scrub of large tea-trees and minor38 shrubs39. There was a little grass scattered40 among the trees, on which, by giving our horses two buckets of water each, they were able to feed tolerably well. During the day we had travelled over a very heavy sandy country and through dense brush, and our horses were much jaded41. Occasionally we had passed small dried up salt lakes and the beds of salt water channels; but even these did not appear to have had any water in them for a long time.
Upon halting the party, I sent Mr. Scott to explore the range further south than I had been, whilst I myself went to search among the salt lakes to the southwest. We, however, both returned equally unsuccessful, and I now found that I should be compelled to send the dray back for a supply of water from Baxter’s range. The country was so scrubby and difficult to get a dray through that our progress was necessarily slow; and in the level waste before us I had no hope of finding water for some distance further. I thought, therefore, that if the dray could bring a supply to last us for two days after leaving our present encampment, we should then be enabled to make a fresh push through a considerable extent of bad country, and might have a better chance of finding water as we advanced to the south-west.
September 19. — This morning I unloaded the dray of every thing except the water casks, and pitching my tent among the scrub took up my quarters alone, whilst I sent back the man, the native boy, the dray, and all the horses with Mr. Scott to Baxter’s range. As they made an early start, I gave them instructions to push on as rapidly as possible, so as to get the range that night, to rest the horses next day and fill the casks with water, and on the third day, if possible, to return the whole distance and rejoin me.
Having seen them fairly away, I occupied myself in writing and charting during the day, and at night amused myself in taking stellar observations for latitude. I had already taken the altitude of Vega, and deduced the latitude to be 32 degrees 3 minutes 23 seconds S.; leaving my artificial horizon on the ground outside whilst I remained in the tent waiting until Altair came to the meridian42, I then took my sextant and went out to observe this star also; but upon putting down my hand to take hold of the horizon glass in order to wipe the dew off, my fingers went into the quick-silver — the horizon glass was gone, and also the piece of canvass43 I had put on the ground to lie down upon whilst observing so low an altitude as that of Vega. Searching a little more I missed a spade, a parcel of horse shoes, an axe44, a tin dish, some ropes, a grubbing hoe, and several smaller things which had been left outside the tent, as not being likely to take any injury from the damp.
It was evident I was surrounded by natives, who had stolen all these things during the short time I had been in my tent, certainly not exceeding half an hour. The night was very windy and I had heard nothing, besides I was encamped in the midst of a very dense brush of large wide-spreading tea-trees and other bushes, any of which would afford a screen for a considerable number of natives. In daylight it was impossible to see many yards in distance, and nothing could be discerned at night.
The natives must have watched the dray go away in the morning, and waited until dark for their opportunity to rob me; and most daringly and effectually had they done it. At the time that I lay on the ground, taking the star’s altitude, they must have been close to me, and after I went into the tent, they doubtless saw me sitting there by the light of the candle, since the door was not quite closed, and they had come quite in front to obtain some of the things they had stolen. The only wonder with me was that they had not speared me, as they could scarcely have been intimidated45 by my individual presence.
As soon as I missed my horizon glass, and entertained the suspicion of natives being about, I hurried into the tent and lighting46 a large blue light, run with it rapidly through the bushes around me. The effect of this was very beautiful amidst the darkness and gloom of the woods, and for a great distance in every direction objects could be seen as well as by day; the natives, however, were gone, and I could only console myself by firing a couple of balls after them through the underwood to warn them of the danger of intruding47 upon me again; I then put every thing which had been left outside, into the tent, and kept watch for an hour or two, but my visitors came no more. The shots, or the blue light, had effectually frightened them. They had, however, in their turn, produced as great an effect upon me, and had at least deprived me of one night’s rest.
September 20. — Rising very early I set to work, with an axe, to clear away the bushes from around my tent. I now discovered that the natives had been concealed48 behind a large tea-tree not twenty yards from the tent; there were numerous foot-marks there, and the remains49 of fire-sticks which they had brought with them, for a native rarely moves at night without fire.
By working hard I cleared a large circle with a radius50 of from thirty to forty yards, and then piling up all the bushes outside and around the tent, which was in the centre, I was completely fortified51, and my sable52 friends could no longer creep upon me to steal without my hearing them. I spent great part of the day in charting, and took a few angles from the tent, but did not dare to venture far away. At night, when it was dark, I mounted guard with my gun for three hours, walking round outside the tent, and firing off my gun before I lay down, which I did with my clothes on, ready to get up at a moment’s notice. Nothing, however, disturbed me.
September 21. — I had been occupied during the greater part of the day in charting, and in the evening was just shouldering my gun to mount guard again, when I was delighted to see Mr. Scott returning with the dray, and the party all safe. They had executed the duty entrusted53 to them well, and had lost no time in rejoining me; the horses were, however, somewhat fatigued54, having come all the way from the range in one day. Being now reinforced, I had no longer occasion to mount guard, and for the first time since the natives had stolen upon me, enjoyed a sound sleep.
September 22. — Moving on the party for ten miles at a course of S. 35 degrees W., we passed through a dreadful country, composed of dense scrub and heavy sandy ridges, with some salt water channels and beds of small dry lakes at intervals55. In many cases the margins56 bounding these were composed of a kind of decomposed57 lime, very light and loose, which yielded to the slightest pressure; in this our horses and drays sank deep, throwing out as they went, clouds of fine white dust on every side around them. This, added to the very fatiguing58 and harassing59 work of dragging the dray through the thick scrub and over the heavy sand ridges, almost knocked them up, and we had the sad prospect before us of encamping at night without a blade of grass for them to eat. Just at this juncture60 the native boy who was with me, said he saw rocks in one of the distant sand hills, but upon examining the place with a telescope I could not make out distinctly whether they were rocks or only sand. The boy however persisted that there were rocks, and to settle the point I halted the dray in camp, whilst I proceeded with him to the spot to look.
At seven miles W. 10 degrees S. of the drays we reached the ridge34, and to my great delight I found the boy was right; he had seen the bare sheets of granite61 peeping out near the summit of a sandy elevation62, and in these we found many holes with water in them. At the base of the hill too, was an opening with good grass around, and a fine spring of pure water. Hastening back to the dray, I conducted the party to the hills, which I named Refuge Rocks, for such they were to us in our difficulties, and such they may be to many future travellers who may have to cross this dreary63 desert.
From the nature of the road and the exhausted64 state of our horses, it was very late when we encamped, but as the position was so favourable65 a one to recruit at, I determined66 to take advantage of it, and remain a couple of days for that purpose.
September 23. — Leaving my party to rest, after the fatigue they had endured in forcing a way through the scrub, I set off after breakfast to reconnoitre our position at Refuge Rocks, and to take a series of angles. The granite elevation, under which we were encamped, I found to be one of three small hills, forming a triangle, about a mile apart from each other, and having sheets of granite lying exposed upon their summits, containing deep holes which receive and retain water after rains. The hill we were encamped under, was the highest of the three, and the only one under which there was a spring. 10 There was also better grass here than around either of the other two; it appeared, too, to be the favourite halting place of the natives, many of whose encampments still remained, and some of which appeared to have been in use not very long ago. The bearings from the hill we were under, of the other two elevations67, which, with it, constitute the Refuge Rocks, were N. 15 degrees W. and W. 35 degrees N. Baxter’s range was still visible in the distance, appearing low and wedge-shaped, with the high end towards the east, at a bearing of N. 24 degrees E. In the western extreme it bore N. 22 degrees E. Many other hills and peaks were apparent in various directions, to all of which I took angles, and then returned to the tent to observe the sun’s meridian altitude for latitude. By this observation, I made the latitude 33 degrees 11 minutes 12 seconds S.; but an altitude of Altair at night only gave 33 degrees 10 minutes 6 seconds S.; probably the mean of the two, or 33 degrees 10 minutes 39 seconds S., will be very nearly the true position of the spring. From the summit of the hill I had been upon, many native fires were visible in the scrub, in almost every direction around. At one time I counted eleven different fires from the smokes that were ascending, and some of which were very near us. Judging from these facts, the natives appeared to be numerous in this part of the country, and it would be necessary to be very cautious and vigilant68 after the instance I had recently met with of their cunning and daring.
10 This was dried up in October, 1842.
September 24. — I still kept my party in camp to refresh the horses, and occupied myself during the morning in preparing a sketch69 of my route to the north, to send to the Governor from Port Lincoln. In the afternoon, I searched for a line of road for our drays to pass, on the following day, through the scrubby and sandy country, which still appeared to continue in every direction.
September 25. — Leaving Refuge Rocks, at a course of S. 37 degrees W., we passed over a wretched country, consisting principally of heavy sandy ridges, very densely70 covered with scrub, and giving our horses a severe and fagging day’s work to get the dray along for only twelve miles. I then halted, as we were fortunate enough to find an opening in the scrub, with good grass. Searching about our encampment, I found in a small valley at one end of the little plain, a round hole, dug by the natives, to catch the drainage from the slope above it. There were two or three quarts of water in this hole when we discovered it; but by enlarging it, we managed to fill a bucket once every hour from the water which drained into it. This enabled us to save, to some extent, the water we had in our casks, at the same time that all the horses had as much as they could drink. I took angles from the camp to all the hills in sight, and at night made the latitude of the tent 33 degrees 18 minutes 34 seconds S. by an altitude of a Cygnus.
September 26. — After travelling for thirteen miles at S. 40 degrees W., I took a set of angles from a low scrubby hill, being the last opportunity I should have of setting many of the heights, of which I had obtained bearings from former camps. I then changed our course to S. 27 degrees W. for five miles, and halted for the night where there was good grass. We could find no water during the day; I had, consequently, to give the horses some out of the casks. The country we traversed had altered greatly in character, and though still heavy and sandy, it was a white coarse gritty sand, instead of a fine red; and instead of the dense cucalyptus scrub, we had now low heathy shrubs which did not present much impediment to the progress of the dray, and many of which bore very beautiful flowers. Granite was frequently met with during the day, but no water could be found. Our latitude by an altitude of a Aquilae was 33 degrees 30 minutes S.
September 27. — Continuing our last night’s course for about seven miles, we passed through the densest71 scrub I had yet met with; fortunately, it was not growing upon a sandy soil, and we got tolerably well through it, but the horses suffered severely72. Upon emerging from the brush, I noticed a little green looking valley, about a mile off our track, and sent Mr. Scott to see if there was water there. Upon his return, he reported that there was, and I at once moved down to it, to rest the horses after the toil73 of breaking through the scrub. The day was not far advanced when we halted, and I was enabled to obtain the sun’s altitude at noon, making the latitude of the camp 33 degrees 34 minutes 25 seconds S. There was good grass for the horses, and abundance of water left by the rains in the hollows of a small watercourse, running between two scrubby ridges.
September 28. — Making an early start, we crossed at four and a half miles, a low scrubby range, and there found, upon the left of our track, some very pretty grassy hills, and a valley lightly wooded with casuarinae. Whilst I went on with the party, I detached Mr. Scott to see if there was water at this little patch of good country, but he did not find any. I am still of opinion, however, that if more time for examination had been allowed, springs would have been discovered not far away; as every thing looked so green and luxuriant, and formed so strong a contrast to the country around.
Pushing on steadify, we crossed over many undulations, coated on the surface either with sand or breccia, and frequently having a good deal of the eucalyptus74 scrub upon them, at eleven miles we passed a long grassy plain in the scrub, and once or twice crossed small openings with a little grass. For one of these we directed our course, late in the evening, to encamp; upon reaching it, however, we were greatly disappointed to find it covered only by prickly grass. I was therefore obliged, after watering the horses from the casks, to send them a mile and half back to some grass we had seen, and where they fared tolerably well. Our day’s journey had been long and fatiguing, through a barren, heavy country. One mile before encamping, we crossed the bed of a salt water channel, trending to the westward, which was probably connected with the Lagoon75 Harbour of Flinders, as it appeared to receive the flood tide. Our latitude was 33 degrees 50 minutes S. by observation of a Aquilae.
September 29. — Whilst the man was out looking for the horses, which had strayed a little during the night, I took a set of angles to several heights, visible from the camp; upon the man’s return, he reported that he had found some fresh water, but upon riding to the place, I. found it was only a very small hole in a sheet of limestone76 rock, near the salt watercourse, which did not contain above a pint77 or two. The natives, however, appeared to come to this occasionally for their supply; similar holes enabling them frequently to remain out in the low countries long after the rain has fallen. After seeing the party move on, with the native boy to act as guide through the scrub, I rode in advance to search for water at the hill marked by Flinders as Bluff78 Mount, and named by Colonel Gawler, Mount Hill. This isolated79 elevation rises abruptly from the field of scrub, in the midst of which it is situated80 and is of granite formation; nearly at its summit is an open grassy plain, which was visible long before we reached it, and which leads directly over the lowest or centre part of the range; water was found in the holes of rock in the granite, and the grass around was very tolerable. Having ascertained81 these particulars, I hurried back to the drays to conduct them to a place of encampment. The road was very long and over a heavy sandy country, for the most part densely covered with scrub, and it was late, therefore, when we reached the hill. The horses, however, had good feed and fair allowance of water, but of the latter they drank every drop we could find. During our route to-day, I noticed some little distance to the north-west of our track, a high scrubby range, having clear grassy-looking openings at intervals. In this direction, it is probable that a better line of road might be found than the one we had chosen.
September 30. — After breakfast, I ascended82 to the summit of Mount Hill, and took a set of angles; whilst the dray wound up the gap between it and another low summit, with which it is connected. Upon descending83 the hill on the opposite side, I was rejoiced to find two very large pools of water in some granite rocks, one of them appearing to be of a permanent character. Here I halted for an hour and a half, to give the horses a little more water, and fill our casks again before we faced the scrubby waste that was still seen ahead of us. I had been last night within fifty yards of the pools that we now found, but had not discovered them, as the evening was closing in at the time, and I was in great haste to return to my party before dark. Leaving Mount Hill at the course of S. 27 degrees W. we passed through a very dense scrub, the strongest, I think, we had yet experienced; the drays were tearing down the brush with loud crashes, at every step which the horses took, and I could only compare their progress to the effect produced by the efforts of a clearing party, the brush rapidly disappearing before the wheels, and leaving almost as open a road as if it had been cut away by axes; the unfortunate animals, however, had to bear the onus84 of all, and most severely were they harassed85 before our short stage was over. At twelve miles we came to a large rocky watercourse of brackish86 water, trending to the east-north-east, through a narrow valley bounded by dense scrub. In this we found pools of fresh water, and as there was good grass, I called a halt about three in the afternoon. We were now able, for the first time for several hundred miles, to enjoy the luxury of a swim, which we all fully appreciated. In the afternoon Mr. Scott shot six ducks in the pools, which furnished us with a most welcome addition to our very scanty87 fare. For two days previous to this, we had been subsisting88 solely89 upon a very limited allowance of dry bread, having only taken fourteen days provisions with us from Baxter’s range, which was nearly all expended90, whilst we were yet at least two days journey from Port Lincoln. At night I observed the latitude of our camp, by alpha Aquilae 34 degrees 12 minutes 52 seconds S. by beta Leonis 34 degrees 12 minutes 35 seconds S. and assumed the mean of the two, or 34 degrees 12 minutes 43 seconds as the correct one.
October 1. — Making an early start we passed at three miles the head of the watercourse we had been encamped upon, and then ascended some scrubby ranges, for about five miles further, when we entered into a narrow tract91 of good grassy country, which at five miles brought us to Mr. Driver’s station; a Mr. Dutton was living at this place as Mr. Driver’s manager, and by him we were very hospitably92 received, and furnished with such supplies as we required.
11
11 In 1842, Mr. Dutton attempted to take some cattle overland, from this station to the head of Spencer’s Gulf; both he and his whole party perished in the desert, (as supposed) from the want of water. In October of that year, I was sent by Government to search for their remains, but as it was the dry season, I could not follow up their
It was a cattle station, and abounded93 with milk and butter, luxuries which we all fully enjoyed after our long ramble94 in the wilds. Having halted my party for the day, Mr. Scott and myself dined at Mr. Dutton’s, and learnt the most recent news from Adelaide and Port Lincoln. We had much to hear and much to inquire about, for even in the few months of our absence, it was to be presumed, that many changes would have taken place in the fluctuating affairs of a new colony. Nor were our conjectures95 wrong.
tracks through the arid96 country they had advanced into. The cattle returned.
That great reaction which was soon to convulse all the Australian Colonies generally, to annihilate97 all mercantile credit, and render real property comparatively valueless, had already commenced in South Australia; failures, and rumours98 of failures, were of daily occurrence in Adelaide, and even the little settlement of Port Lincoln had not escaped the troubles of the times. I learnt with regret that it was rapidly falling into decay, and its population diminishing. Many had already deserted99 it, and amongst them I was surprised to hear of the departure of Captain Porter and others, who were once the most enthusiastic admirers and the staunchest supporters of this embryo100 town. That which however affected101 me more particularly was the fear, that from the low and impoverished102 state to which the place was now reduced, I should not be able to obtain the supplies I required for my party, and should probably have to delay until I could send over to Adelaide for what I wanted, even supposing I was lucky enough to find a vessel103 to go across for me. In walking round Mr. Dutton’s farm I found he was ploughing up some land in the valley for wheat, which appeared to be an excellent soil, and the garden he had already commenced was looking promising104. At night I obtained the altitude of a Aquilae, by which I placed Mr. Driver’s station in 34 degrees 21 minutes 20 seconds S. lat., or about 22 miles of lat. north of Kirton Point.
October 2. — Before leaving the station I purchased from Mr. Dutton a little Timor pony105 for 25 pounds for one of the native boys to ride, to replace in some measure the services of the animal I had been obliged to have shot up to the north. The only objection to my new purchase was that it was a little mare106 and already forward in foal. At Port Lincoln, however, I was not likely to meet with any horses for sale, and did not therefore deem it prudent107 to lose the only opportunity that might occur of getting an animal of some kind. After quitting Mr. Dutton’s, I followed a dray road leading towards Port Lincoln. For the most part we passed through green valleys with rich soil and luxuriant pasturage, but occasionally intersected by poor sandy or gravelly soil of a saline nature; the water was abundant from recent heavy rains, and some of the pools fresh; others, however, were very brackish. The hills adjoining the valley were grassy, and lightly wooded on their slopes facing the valley; towards the summits they became scrubby, and beyond, the scrub almost invariably made its appearance. Altogether we passed this day through a considerable tract of country, containing much land that is well adapted for sheep or cattle, and with a fair proportion suitable for agriculture. It is by far the best portion of the available country in the Port Lincoln peninsula, and I could not help regretting it should be so limited in extent. I had now travelled all the three sides of the triangle, and had obtained extensive views from various heights along each of these lines of route; I had crossed from Port Lincoln to Streaky Bay, from Streaky Bay to the head of Spencer’s Gulf, and from the head of Spencer’s Gulf down to Port Lincoln again. In the course of these journeys, I had spared no toil nor exertion108, to make my examination as complete and as useful as possible, though my labours were not rewarded by commensurate success. The great mass of the peninsula is barren, arid, and worthless; and although Port Lincoln possesses a beautiful, secure, and capacious harbour, with a convenient and pretty site for a town, and immediately contiguous to which there exists some extent of fine and fertile soil, with several good grassy patches of country beyond; yet it can never become a large or important place, in consequence of its complete isolation109, except by water, from every other, and the limited nature of its own resources.
For one or two large stock-holders, who wish to secure good grazing ground, and be apart from others, it might answer well, but even they would ordinarily labour under difficulties and disadvantages which would make their situation not at all desirable. The uncertainty110 and expense of procuring111 their supplies — of obtaining labour, and of finding a market for their surplus stock12, and the almost total impossibility of their being able to effect sales in the event of their wishing to leave, would perhaps more than counterbalance the advantages of having the country to themselves. Purchased in the days of wild and foolish speculation112, and when a rage existed for buying land and laying out townships, no place has been more misrepresented or misunderstood than Port Lincoln. Many gross and glaring misstatements have been put forth113 of its character and capabilities114, by those who were actuated by interested motives115, and many unintentional misrepresentations have been made and perpetuated116 by others, whose judgment117 or information has led them into error, so that the public generally, and especially the English public, have had no means of discriminating118 between the widely conflicting accounts that have been given. Amongst the persons from whom this small settlement has suffered disparagement119 there are none, perhaps, more blameable than those who have put forth statements which ascribe to it advantages and qualities that it does not possess; for just in proportion as the expectation of intending settlers have been raised by exaggeration or untruths has been their disappointment and disgust, when the facts themselves have stared them in the face.
12 Pastoral settlers have left Port Lincoln in consequence of these disadvantages — but it is possible that a comparatively large population may locate there, hereafter, should mineral resources be found out. Such discoveries are said to have been made, but Iam not aware upon whose authority the report has become current.
The day of hallucination has now passed away, but out of the reaction which has succeeded it, has arisen a disposition120 to deprive Port Lincoln of even the merits to which it really has a legitimate121 claim, and which would have been far more highly appreciated, if the previous misstatements and consequent disappointments had not induced a feeling of suspicion and distrust not easily effaced122.
Our stage to-day was twenty-five miles, over a pretty good road, which brought us towards evening under the range contiguous to the township. In one of the valleys leading from these hills on their west side we found a small spring of good water, and as the grass around us was very abundant and of the most luxuriant growth, I at once decided upon making this our resting place, until I had completed my arrangements for procuring supplies, and was again ready to move onwards.
October 3. — Leaving our horses to enjoy the good quarters we had selected for them, and a respite123 from their labours, Mr. Scott and I walked across the range into Port Lincoln, not a little surprising the good people there, who had not heard of our coming, and who imagined us to be many hundreds of miles away to the north. Calling upon Dr. Harvey, the only Government officer then at the settlement, I learnt with regret that it was quite impossible for me to procure the supplies I required in the town, whilst there were no vessels124 in the port, except foreign whalers, who were neither likely to have, nor be willing to part with the things I should require. What to do under such circumstances was rather a difficult question, and my principal hope was that some small coasting vessel might arrive in the course of a few days, or if not, I might try to hire a whale boat from one of the whaling vessels, and send her on to Adelaide. Dr. Harvey had a small open boat of four or five tons, but he did not seem willing to let her go; and unless I could communicate with Adelaide, flour was the only article I could procure, and that not from the stores in the town, but from a small stock belonging to the Government, which had been sent over to meet any emergency that might arise in so isolated a place. This was placed under the charge of Dr. Harvey, who, on behalf of the Government, kindly125 offered to let me have what I required, on condition that I would replace the same quantity, by the first opportunity.
Having made arrangements for a supply of fresh meat and a few vegetables during my stay, I walked out to examine the settlement. I found many neat cottages and other improvements since I had been here in 1839; and there were also a few gardens commenced, some of which were in a state of cultivation126 and appeared to be doing well. The population, however, had decreased, and many of the cottages were now unoccupied. Those who remained were principally persons who had lost everything, and who could not well get away, or who, on the other hand, had invested their property in the place, and could not leave it except at the sacrifice of almost everything they possessed127. No one seemed to be doing well but the inn-keeper, and he owed his success chiefly to the custom or traffic of the foreign whalers who occasionally resorted here for refreshments128. The stockholders, living a few miles from town, who ought to have succeeded the best, were getting dissatisfied at the many disadvantages which they laboured under, and the smallness of the community around them, and every thing wore a gloomy aspect.
October 4. — After breakfast, accompanied by Mr. Scott, I went to Port Lincoln to attend divine service; prayers were read by Dr. Harvey. The congregation was small but respectable, and apparently129 devout130. After church, we accompanied Dr. Harvey home to dinner, and met the Captain and Surgeon of one of the French whalers in port; both of whom appeared intelligent, and superior to the class usually met with in such employments. After dinner we all walked down to the lagoon, west of Port Lincoln, where the land is of a rich black alluvial131 character, and well adapted for cultivation. Returning by our tents, Dr. Harvey and the Frenchmen took tea with us, and then returned to the settlement. In the course of our walk this afternoon, Dr. Harvey offered to put a temporary hatch over his boat, and send her to Adelaide for me for ten pounds, which offer I at once accepted, and Mr. Scott volunteered to go in her as supercargo.
October 5. — To-day I employed myself in writing letters, whilst the dray went to Port Lincoln for supplies. The few things I could get there were very dear, meat 1s. per pound, potatoes 9d. per pound, salt butter 2s. 6d., a small bag, with a few old cabbage stumps132, five or six shillings, and other things in proportion.
October 6. — Went to town, accompanied by Mr. Scott to inspect the preparations of the little cutter he was to go to Adelaide in; — ordered all our horses to be shod, and several spare sets of shoes to be made to take up to the party at Streaky Bay. On our return we were accompanied by Mr. Smith, who kindly went with Mr. Scott to the station of a Mr. Brown, 13 about ten miles away, to select sheep to take with us on our journey. Mr. Scott purchased twelve at 2 pounds each, and brought them to the station; they were not very large, but were in fine condition.
13 Since murdered by the natives.
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1
westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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2
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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3
plundered
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| 掠夺，抢劫( plunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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4
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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5
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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6
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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7
procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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8
depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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9
tarpaulin
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| n.涂油防水布，防水衣，防水帽 | |
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10
steering
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| n.操舵装置 | |
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11
boggy
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| adj.沼泽多的 | |
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12
puddles
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| n.水坑， （尤指道路上的）雨水坑( puddle的名词复数 ) | |
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13
gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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14
strata
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| n.地层（复数）；社会阶层 | |
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15
slaty
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| 石板一样的，石板色的 | |
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16
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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17
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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18
conglomerate
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| n.综合商社，多元化集团公司 | |
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19
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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20
latitude
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| n.纬度，行动或言论的自由(范围)，(pl.)地区 | |
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21
apprehended
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| 逮捕，拘押( apprehend的过去式和过去分词 )； 理解 | |
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22
scarcity
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| n.缺乏，不足，萧条 | |
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23
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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24
gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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25
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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26
winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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27
procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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28
converging
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| adj.收敛[缩]的，会聚的，趋同的v.（线条、运动的物体等）会于一点( converge的现在分词 )；（趋于）相似或相同；人或车辆汇集；聚集 | |
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29
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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30
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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31
deviate
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| v.(from)背离，偏离 | |
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32
immediate
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| adj.立即的；直接的，最接近的；紧靠的 | |
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33
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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34
ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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35
ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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36
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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37
interspersed
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| adj.[医]散开的；点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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38
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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39
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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40
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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41
jaded
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| adj.精疲力竭的；厌倦的；（因过饱或过多而）腻烦的；迟钝的 | |
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42
meridian
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| adj.子午线的；全盛期的 | |
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43
canvass
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| v.招徕顾客，兜售；游说；详细检查，讨论 | |
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44
axe
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| n.斧子；v.用斧头砍，削减 | |
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45
intimidated
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| v.恐吓；威胁adj.害怕的；受到威胁的 | |
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46
lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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47
intruding
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| v.侵入，侵扰，打扰( intrude的现在分词)；把…强加于 | |
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48
concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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49
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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50
radius
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| n.半径，半径范围；有效航程，范围，界限 | |
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51
fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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52
sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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53
entrusted
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| v.委托，托付( entrust的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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54
fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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55
intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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56
margins
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| 边( margin的名词复数 )； 利润； 页边空白； 差数 | |
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57
decomposed
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| 已分解的，已腐烂的 | |
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58
fatiguing
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| a.使人劳累的 | |
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59
harassing
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| v.侵扰，骚扰( harass的现在分词 )；不断攻击（敌人） | |
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60
juncture
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| n.时刻，关键时刻，紧要关头 | |
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61
granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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62
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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63
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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64
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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65
favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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66
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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67
elevations
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| （水平或数量）提高( elevation的名词复数 )； 高地； 海拔； 提升 | |
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68
vigilant
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| adj.警觉的，警戒的，警惕的 | |
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69
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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70
densely
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| ad.密集地；浓厚地 | |
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71
densest
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| 密集的( dense的最高级 )； 密度大的； 愚笨的； （信息量大得）难理解的 | |
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72
severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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73
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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74
eucalyptus
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| n.桉树，桉属植物 | |
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75
lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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76
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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77
pint
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| n.品脱 | |
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78
bluff
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| v.虚张声势，用假象骗人；n.虚张声势，欺骗 | |
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79
isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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80
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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81
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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82
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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83
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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84
onus
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| n.负担；责任 | |
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85
harassed
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| adj. 疲倦的，厌烦的 动词harass的过去式和过去分词 | |
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86
brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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87
scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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88
subsisting
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| v.（靠很少的钱或食物）维持生活，生存下去( subsist的现在分词 ) | |
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89
solely
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| adv.仅仅，唯一地 | |
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90
expended
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| v.花费( expend的过去式和过去分词 )；使用（钱等）做某事；用光；耗尽 | |
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91
tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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92
hospitably
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| 亲切地，招待周到地，善于款待地 | |
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93
abounded
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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94
ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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95
conjectures
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| 推测，猜想( conjecture的名词复数 ) | |
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96
arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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97
annihilate
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| v.使无效；毁灭；取消 | |
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98
rumours
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| n.传闻( rumour的名词复数 )；风闻；谣言；谣传 | |
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99
deserted
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| adj.荒芜的，荒废的，无人的，被遗弃的 | |
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100
embryo
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| n.胚胎，萌芽的事物 | |
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101
affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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102
impoverished
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| adj.穷困的，无力的，用尽了的v.使（某人）贫穷( impoverish的过去式和过去分词 )；使（某物）贫瘠或恶化 | |
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103
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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104
promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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105
pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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106
mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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107
prudent
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| adj.谨慎的，有远见的，精打细算的 | |
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108
exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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109
isolation
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| n.隔离，孤立，分解，分离 | |
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110
uncertainty
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| n.易变，靠不住，不确知，不确定的事物 | |
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111
procuring
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的现在分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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112
speculation
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| n.思索，沉思；猜测；投机 | |
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113
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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114
capabilities
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| n.能力( capability的名词复数 )；可能；容量；[复数]潜在能力 | |
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115
motives
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| n.动机，目的( motive的名词复数 ) | |
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116
perpetuated
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| vt.使永存（perpetuate的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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118
discriminating
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| a.有辨别能力的 | |
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119
disparagement
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| n.轻视，轻蔑 | |
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120
disposition
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| n.性情，性格；意向，倾向；排列，部署 | |
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legitimate
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| adj.合法的，合理的，合乎逻辑的；v.使合法 | |
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122
effaced
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| v.擦掉( efface的过去式和过去分词 )；抹去；超越；使黯然失色 | |
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123
respite
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| n.休息，中止，暂缓 | |
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124
vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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125
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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126
cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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127
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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refreshments
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| n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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130
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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alluvial
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| adj.冲积的；淤积的 | |
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132
stumps
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| （被砍下的树的）树桩( stump的名词复数 )； 残肢； （板球三柱门的）柱； 残余部分 | |
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