January 10. — WE left Yeer-kumban-kauwe early, and proceeding7 to the westward, passed through an open level tract8 of country, of from three to four hundred feet in elevation9, and terminating seawards abruptly11, in bold and overhanging cliffs, which had been remarked by Captain Flinders, but which upon our nearer approach, presented nothing very remarkable12 in appearance, being only the sudden termination of a perfectly13 level country, with its outer face washed, steep and precipitous, by the unceasing lash14 of the southern ocean. The upper surface of this country, like that of all we had passed through lately, consisted of a calcareous oolitic limestone15, below which was a hard concrete substance of sand or of reddish soil, mixed with shells and pebbles16; below this again, the principal portion of the cliff consisted of a very hard and coarse grey limestone, and under this a narrow belt of a whitish or cream-coloured substance, lying in horizontal strata18; but what this was we could not yet determine, being unable to get down to it any where. The cliffs were frightfully undermined in many places, enormous masses lay dissevered from the main land by deep fissures21, and appearing to require but a touch to plunge22 them headlong into the abyss below. Back from the sea, the country was level, tolerably open, and covered with salsolae, or low, prickly shrubs24, with here and there belts of the eucalyptus25 dumosa. In places two or three miles back from the coast there was a great deal of grass, that at a better season of the year would have been valuable; now it was dry and sapless. No timber was visible any where, nor the slightest rise of any kind. The whole of this level region, elevated as it was above the sea, was completely coated over with small fresh water spiral shells, of two different kinds.
After travelling about twenty-five miles along the cliffs, we came all at once to innumerable pieces of beautiful flint, lying on the surface, about two hundred yards inland. This was the place at which the natives had told us they procured26 the flint; but how it attained27 so elevated a position, or by what means it became scattered28 over the surface in such great quantities in that particular place, could only be a matter of conjecture29. There was no change whatever in the character or appearance of the country, or of the cliffs, and the latter were as steep and impracticable as ever.
Five miles beyond the flint district we turned a little inland and halted for the night upon a patch of withered30 grass. During the day we had been fortunate enough to find a puddle31 of water in a hollow of the rock left by yesterday’s rain, at which we watered the horses, and then lading out the remainder into our bucket carefully covered it up with a stone slab32 until our return, as I well knew, if exposed to the sun and wind, there would not be a drop left in a very few hours. Kangaroos had been seen in great numbers during the day, but we had not been able to get a shot at one. Our provisions were now nearly exhausted33, and for some days we had been upon very reduced allowances, so that it was not without some degree of chagrin34 that we saw so many fine animals bounding unscathed around us.
January 11. — Having travelled fifteen miles further along the cliffs, I found them still continue unchanged, with the same level uninteresting country behind. I had now accomplished35 all that I expected to do on this excursion, by ascertaining36 the character of the country around the Great Bight; and as our horses were too weak to attempt to push beyond the cliffs to the next water, and as we ourselves were without provisions, I turned homewards, and by making a late and forced march, arrived at the place where we had left the bucket of water, after a day’s ride of forty-five miles. Our precaution as we had gone out proved of inestimable value to us now. The bucket of water was full and uninjured, and we were enabled thus to give our horses a gallon and a half each, and allow them to feed upon the withered grass instead of tying them up to bushes, which we must have done if we had had no water.
January 12. — In our route back to “Yeer-kumban-kauwe” we were lucky enough to add to our fare a rat and a bandicoot, we might also have had a large brown snake, but neither the boy nor I felt inclined to experimentalise upon so uninviting an article of food; after all it was probably mere38 prejudice, and the animal might have been as good eating as an eel39. We arrived at the water about noon, and the remainder of the day afforded a grateful rest both to ourselves and to the horses.
January 13. — Our fire had gone out during the night, and all our matches being wet, we could not relight it until noon, when the rays of a hot sun had dried them again. Having eaten our slender dinner, I walked out to water the horses, leaving the boy in charge of the camp. Upon my return I found him comfortably seated between two of our friends the natives, who had just returned from a hunting excursion, bringing with them the half roasted carcass of a very fine kangaroo. They had already bestowed40 upon the boy two very large pieces, and as soon as I made my appearance they were equally liberal to me, getting up the moment I arrived at the camp, and bringing it over to me of their own accord. The supply was a most acceptable one, and we felt very grateful for it. Having received as much of the kangaroo as would fully19 last for two days, I gave a knife in return to the eldest41 of the men, with which he seemed highly delighted. I would gladly have given one to the other also, but I had only one left, and could not spare it. The natives remained in camp with us for the night, and seemed a good deal surprised when they saw us re-roasting the kangaroo; frequently intimating to us that it had already been cooked, and evidently pitying the want of taste which prevented us from appreciating their skill in the culinary art.
January 14. — Upon our leaving this morning the natives buried in the sand the remains42 of their kangaroo, and accompanied us a mile or two on our road, then turning in among the sand-hills they returned to renew their feast. They had been eating almost incessantly43 ever since they arrived at the water yesterday, and during the night they had repeatedly got up for the same purpose. The appetites of these people know no restraint when they have the means of gratifying them; they have no idea of temperance or prudence45, and are equally regardless of the evil resulting from excess as they are improvident46 in preparing for the necessities of the morrow — ”sufficient (literally47 so to them) for the day is the evil thereof.”
In our route to-day instead of following round the sea-shore, we struck across behind the sand-hills, from “Yeerkumban-kauwe” to the water we had first found on the 7th of January, and in doing so we passed along a large but shallow salt-water lake, which the natives had pointed48 to on the evening of the 7th, when I made inquiries49 relative to the existence of salt water inland. The margin50 of this lake was soft and boggy51, and we were nearly losing one of our horses which sank unexpectedly in the mud. About noon we arrived at the camp, from which I had sent the man back on the 6th, and having picked up the water and other things left there, proceeded to the sand-hills near which we had halted during the intense heat of that day. We now rested for several hours, and again moved onwards about eleven at night to avoid the great heat of the day whilst crossing the sandy country before us.
January 15. — At sunrise we arrived at the undulating plains, where twenty gallons of water had been left buried for us. Here I found the overseer with two fresh horses, according to the instructions I had sent him on the 6th, by the man who returned. After resting for an hour or two, I set off with the native boy upon the fresh horses, and rode to the water at the sand-drifts, leaving the overseer to bring on the tired animals the next day. It was nearly dark when we arrived at the plain under the sand-hills, and very late before we had watered the horses and brought them back to the grass.
January 16. — After breakfast, in returning from the water, we had a feast upon some berries, growing on the briary bushes behind the sand-hills; they were similar to those the natives had offered to us, at the head of the Bight, on the 7th, were very abundant, and just becoming ripe. About eight o’clock we set off for the depot, and arrived there at two, glad to reach our temporary home once more, after eighteen days absence, and heartily52 welcomed by Mr. Scott, who complained bitterly of having been left alone so long. Under the circumstances of the case, however, it had been quite unavoidable. Upon tasting the water at the well, I found, that from so much having been taken out, it had now become so very brackish53, that it was scarcely usable, and I decided54 upon returning again to Fowler’s Bay, where the water was good, as soon as the overseer came back.
January 17. — Spent the day in writing, and in meditating55 upon my future plans and prospects56. I had now been forty-five miles beyond the head of the Great Bight, that point to which I had looked with interest and hope; now, I had ascertained58 that no improvement took place there, in the appearance or character of the country, but, if any thing, that it became less inviting37, and more arid59. The account of the natives fully satisfied me that there was no possibility of getting inland, and my own experience told me that I could never hope to take a loaded dray through the dreadful country I had already traversed on horseback. What then was I to do? or how proceed for the future? The following brief abstract of the labours of the party, and the work performed by the horses in the three attempts made to get round the head of the Great Bight, may perhaps seem incredible to those who know nothing of the difficulty of forcing a passage through such a country as we were in, and amidst all the disadvantages we were under, from the season of the year and other causes.
ABSTRACT OF LABOURS OF The Party IN ROUNDING The GREAT BIGHT.
Names. Distances ridden. No. of days employed. Mr Eyre 643 miles 40 Mr. Scott 50 miles 4 The Overseer 230 miles 22 Costelow 22 Houston 12 Corporal Coles 8 Eldest native boy 270 miles 19 Youngest native boy 395 miles 23
A dray loaded with water was drawn60 backwards61 and forwards 238 miles; many of the horses, in addition to the distances they were ridden, or worked in the dray, were driven loose, in going or returning, for about eighty miles. Most of the party walked considerable distances in addition to those ridden. All the party were engaged, more or less, in connection with the three attempts to round the Bight, as were also all the horses, and of the latter, three perished from over fatigue62 and want of water. Yet, after all, the distance examined did not exceed 135 miles, and might have been done easily in ten days, and without any loss, had the situation of the watering places, or the nature of the country, been previously63 known.
None but a person who has been similarly circumstanced, can at all conceive the incessant44 toil64 and harassing65 anxiety of the explorer; when baffled and defeated, he has to traverse over and over again the same dreary66 wastes, gaining but a few miles of ground at each fresh attempt, whilst each renewal67 of the effort but exhausts still more the strength and condition of his animals, or the energy and spirits of his men.
Upon maturely considering our circumstances and position, I decided to attempt to force a passage round the Great Bight, with pack-horses only, sending, upon the return of the cutter, all our heavy stores and drays in her to Cape68 Arid, if I found, upon her arrival, the instructions I might receive, would justify69 me in taking her so far beyond the boundaries of South Australia. This was the only plan that appeared to me at all feasible, and I determined70 to adopt it as soon as our horses were sufficiently71 recruited to commence their labours again.
On the 18th, the overseer returned with the two jaded72 horses we had used on our last excursion, looking very wretched and weak. The day was intensely hot, with the wind due north: the thermometer in the shade, in a well lined tent, being 105 degrees at 11 A.M. — a strong corroboration73, if such were required, of the statement of the natives, that there was no large body of inland water. At 2, P.M. the wind changed to west, and the thermometer suddenly fell to 95 degrees; a little afterwards, it veered74 to south-west, and again fell to 80 degrees; the afternoon then became comparatively cool and pleasant.
The quality of the water at the well, was now beginning to affect the health of the whole party; and on the 19th and 20th I put into execution my resolution of removing to Fowler’s Bay, where we again enjoyed the luxury of good water. Upon digging up the things we had left buried, we found them perfectly dry. On the 21st, I sent Mr. Scott down to the bay, to see if the cutter had come back, but she had not. On his return, he brought up a few fish he had caught, which, added to ten pigeons, shot by himself and the native boys, at the sand-hills, gave a little variety to our fare; indeed, for several days, after taking up our old position at Point Fowler, we were well supplied both with fish and pigeons.
Time passed gradually away until the evening of the 25th, when a party of natives once more came up, and took up their abode75 near us — three were of those who had accompanied us all the way from Denial Bay, and some others had also been with us before. On the 26th, I went down myself to Fowler’s Bay to look out for the cutter, which we now daily expected. Just as I arrived at the beach she came rounding into the bay, and Mr. Scott and myself got into our little boat, and pulled off to her, though with great difficulty, the wind blowing very fresh and dead against us, with the sea running high. We had three miles to go, and for a long time it was very doubtful whether we should succeed in reaching the vessel76; our utmost efforts appearing barely to enable us to keep our ground. I was myself, at the best, not very skilful77 in using an oar17, and neither of us had had much practice in pulling in a heavy sea. However, we got on board after a good deal of fatigue, and were rewarded by receiving many letters, both English and Colonial. I found that in returning to Adelaide the Water-witch had proved so leaky as to be deemed unsafe for further service on so wild a coast, and that the Governor had, in consequence, with the promptness and consideration which so eminently78 distinguished79 him, chartered the “Hero,” a fine cutter, a little larger than the Waterwitch, and placing her under the command of Mr. Germain, had sent him to our assistance. On board the Hero I was pleased to find the native from King George’s Sound, named Wylie, whom I had sent for, and who was almost wild with delight at meeting us, having been much disappointed at being out of the way when I sent for him from Port Lincoln.
Wylie (J. Neil)
After receiving our despatches, and taking Wylie with us, we set sail for the shore, and then walked up in the evening to our depot; my other two native boys were greatly rejoiced to find their old friend once more with them; they had much to tell to, and much to hear from each other, and all sat up to a late hour. For myself, the many letters I had received, gave me ample enjoyment80 and occupation for the night, whilst the large pile of newspapers from Adelaide, Swan River, and Sydney, promised a fund of interest for some time to come. Nothing could exceed the kindness and attention of our friends in Adelaide, who had literally inundated81 us with presents of every kind, each appearing to vie with the other in their endeavours to console us under our disappointments, to cheer us in our future efforts, and if possible, to make us almost forget that we were in the wilds. Among other presents I received a fine and valuable kangaroo-dog from my friend, Captain Sturt, and which had fortunately arrived safely, and in excellent condition.
The bran and oats which I had applied82 for had been most liberally provided, so that by remaining in depot for a few weeks longer, we might again hope to get our horses into good condition. From his Excellency the Governor I received a kind and friendly letter, acquainting me that the Hero was entirely83 at my disposal within the limits of South Australia, but that being under charter I could not take her to Cape Arid, or beyond the boundaries of the province, and requesting, that if I desired further aid, or to be met any where, at a future time, that I would communicate with the Government to that effect by the Hero’S return. The whole tenor84 of his Excellency’s letter evinced a degree of consideration and kindness that I could hardly have expected amidst the many anxious duties and onerous85 responsibilities devolving upon him at this time; and if any thing could have added to the feelings of gratitude86 and respect I entertained towards him, it would be the knowledge, that with the disinterested87 generosity88 of a noble mind, he was giving up a portion of his valuable time and attention to our plans, our wants, and our safety, at a time when the circumstances of the colony over which he presided had beset89 his own path with many difficulties, and when every day but added to the annoyances90 and embarrassments91 which a sudden reaction in the progress and prospects of the province necessarily produced.
In the instructions I received relative to the cutter, I have mentioned that I was restricted to employing her within the limits of the colony of South Australia, and thus, the plan I had formed of sending our drays and heavy stores in her to Cape Arid, whilst we proceeded overland ourselves with pack-horses, was completely overturned, and it became now a matter of very serious consideration to decide what I should do under the circumstances. It was impossible for me to take my whole party and the drays overland through the dreadful country verging92 upon the Great Bight; whilst if I took the party, and left the drays, it was equally hopeless that I could carry upon pack-horses a sufficiency of provisions to last us to King George’s Sound. There remained, then, but two alternatives, either to break through the instructions I had received with regard to the Hero, or to reduce my party still further, and attempt to force a passage almost alone. The first I did not, for many reasons, think myself justified93 in doing — the second, therefore, became my DERNIER ReSORT, and I reluctantly decided upon adopting it.
It now became my duty to determine without delay who were to be my companions in the perilous94 attempt before me. The first and most painful necessity impressed upon me by the step I contemplated96, was that of parting with my young friend, Mr. Scott, who had been with me from the commencement of the undertaking97, and who had always been zealous98 and active in promoting its interests as far as lay in his power. I knew that, on an occasion like this, the spirit and enterprise of his character would prompt in him a wish to remain and share the difficulties and dangers to which I might be exposed: but I felt that I ought not to allow him to do so; I had no right to lead a young enthusiastic friend into a peril95 from which escape seemed to be all but hopeless; and painful as it would be to us both to separate under such circumstances, there was now no other alternative; the path of duty was plain and imperative100, and I was bound to follow it.
On the 28th, I took the opportunity, whilst walking down to the beach with Mr. Scott, of explaining the circumstances in which I was placed, and the decision to which I had been forced. He was much affected101 at the intelligence, and would fain have remained to share with me the result of the expedition, whatever that might be; but I dared not consent to it.
The only man left, belonging to the party, was the one who had accompanied me towards the head of the Great Bight, and suffered so much from the heat on the 6th January. His experience on that occasion of the nature of the country, and the climate we were advancing into, had, in a great measure, damped his ardour for exploring; so that when told that the expedition, as far as he was concerned, had terminated, and that he would have to go back to Adelaide with Mr. Scott, he did not express any regret. I had ever found him a useful and obedient man, and with the exception of his losing courage under the heat, upon the occasion alluded102 to, he had been a hardy103 and industrious104 man, and capable of enduring much fatigue.
The native boys I intended to accompany me in my journey, as they would be better able to put up with the fatigues105 and privations we should have to go through, than Europeans; whilst their quickness of sight, habit of observation, and skill in tracking, might occasionally be of essential service to me. The native who had lately joined me from Adelaide, and whose country was around King George’s Sound, would, I hoped, be able to interpret to any tribes we might meet with, as it appeared to me that some of the words we had heard in use among the natives of this part of the coast were very similar to some I had heard among the natives of King George’s Sound. Three natives, however, were more than I required, and I would gladly have sent the youngest of them back to Adelaide, but he had been with me several years, and I did not like to send him away whilst he was willing to remain; besides, he was so young and so light in weight, that if we were able to get on at all, his presence could cause but little extra difficulty. I therefore decided upon taking him also.
There remained now only the overseer; a man who had been in my service for many years, and whose energy, activity, and many useful qualities, had made him an invaluable106 servant to me at all times; whilst his courage, prudence, good conduct, and fidelity107, made me very desirous to have him with me in this last effort to cross to the westward. Having sent for him, I explained to him most fully the circumstances in which I was placed, the utter impossibility of taking on the whole party through so inhospitable a region as that before us, my own firm determination never to return unsuccessful, but either to accomplish the object I had in view, or perish in the attempt. I pointed out to him that there were still eight hundred and fifty miles of an unknown country yet to be traversed and explored; that, in all probability, this would consist principally, if not wholly, of an all but impracticable desert. I reminded him of the fatigues, difficulties, and losses we had already experienced in attempting to reconnoitre the country only as far as the head of the Great Bight; and stated to him my own conviction, that from the knowledge and experience we had already acquired of the nature of the country; the journey before us must of necessity be a long and harassing one — one of unceasing toil, privation, and anxiety, whilst, from the smallness of our party, the probable want of water, and other causes, it would be one, also, of more than ordinary risk and danger. I then left him to determine whether he would return to Adelaide, in the cutter, or remain and accompany me. His reply was, that although he had become tired of remaining so long away in the wilds, and should be glad when the expedition had terminated, yet he would willingly remain with me to the last; and would accompany me to the westward at every hazard.
Our future movements being now arranged, and the division of the party decided upon, it remained only for me to put my plans into execution. The prospect57 of the approaching separation, had cast a gloom over the whole party, and now that all was finally determined, I felt that the sooner it was over the better. I lost no time, therefore, in getting up all the bran and oats from the cutter, and in putting on board of her our drays, and such stores as we did not require, directing the master to hold himself in readiness to return to Adelaide immediately.
By the 31st January, every thing was ready; my farewell letters were written to the kind friends in Adelaide, to whom I owed so much; and my final report to the Chairman of the Committee, for promoting the expedition — that expedition being now brought to a close, and its members disbanded.
In the evening the man and Mr. Scott went on board the cutter, taking with them our three kangaroo dogs, which the arid nature of the country rendered it impossible for me to keep. I regretted exceedingly being compelled to part with the dogs, but it would have been certain destruction to them to have attempted to take them with me.
The following is a copy of my final report to the Chairman of the Northern Expedition Committee: —
“Fowler’s Bay, 30th Jan., 1841.
“Sir, — By the return of the Hero from Fowler’s Bay, I have the honour to acquaint you, for the information of his Excellency the Governor, and the colonists108 interested, with the unsuccessful termination of the expedition placed under my command, for the purpose of exploring the northern interior. Since my last report to his Excellency the Governor, containing an account of two most disastrous109 attempts to head the Great Australian Bight, I have, accompanied by one of my native boys, made a third and more successful one. On this occasion, I with some difficulty advanced about fifty miles beyond the head of the Great Bight, along the line of high cliffs described by Flinders, and which have hitherto been supposed to be composed principally of chalk. I found the country between the head of Fowler’s Bay and the head of the Great Bight to consist of a succession of sandy ridges110, all of which were more or less covered by a low scrub, and without either grass or water for the last sixty miles. This tract is of so uneven111 and heavy a nature that it would be quite impossible for me to take a loaded dray across it at this very unfavourable season of the year, and with horses so spiritless and jaded as ours have become, from the incessant and laborious112 work they have gone through during the last seven months. Upon rounding the head of the Bight, I met with a few friendly natives, who shewed me where both grass and water was to be procured, at the same time assuring me that there was no more along the coast for ten of their days’ journeys, (probably 100 miles) or where the first break takes place in the long and continuous line of cliffs which extend so far to the westward of the head of the Great Bight. Upon reaching these cliffs I felt much disappointed, as I had long looked forward to some considerable and important change in the character of the country. There was, however, nothing very remarkable in their appearance, nor did the features of the country around undergo any material change. The cliffs themselves struck me as merely exhibiting the precipitous banks of an almost level country of moderate elevation (three or four hundred feet) which the violent lash of the whole of the Southern Ocean was always acting113 upon and undermining. Their rock formation consisted of various strata, the upper crust or surface being an oolitic limestone; below this is an indented114 concrete mixture of sand, soil, small pebbles, and shells; beneath this appear immense masses of a coarse greyish limestone, of which by far the greater portion of the cliffs are composed; and immediately below these again is a narrow stripe of a whitish, or rather a cream-coloured substance, lying in horizontal strata, but which the impracticable nature of the cliffs did not permit me to examine. After riding for forty-five miles along their summits, I was in no instance able to descend115; their brinks were perfectly steep and overhanging, and in many places enormous masses appeared severed20 by deep cracks from the main land, and requiring but a slight touch to plunge them into the abyss below. As far as I have yet been along these cliffs, I have seen nothing in their appearance to lead me to suppose that any portion of them is composed of chalk. Immediately along their summits, and for a few hundred yards back, very numerous pieces of pure flint are lying loosely scattered upon the surface of the limestone. How they obtained so elevated a position, or whence they are from, may admit, perhaps, of some speculation116. Back from the sea, and as far as the eye could reach, the country was level and generally open, with some low prickly bushes and salsolaceous plants growing upon it; here and there patches of the gum scrub shewed themselves, and among which a few small grassy117 openings were interspersed118. The whole of this tract was thickly covered by small land shells, about the size of snail119 shells — and some of them somewhat resembling those in shape. There were no sudden depressions or abrupt10 elevations120 anywhere; neither hills, trees, or water were to be observed; nor was there the least indication of improvement or change in the general character of this desolate121 and forbidding region. The natives we met with at the head of the Bight were very friendly, and readily afforded us every information we required — as far as we could make them comprehend our wishes.
“We most distinctly understood from them, that there was no water along the coast, westerly, for ten of their days’ journeys; and that inland, there was neither fresh nor salt water, hills or timber, as far as they had ever been; an account which but too well agreed with the opinion I had myself formed, upon ascertaining that the same dreary, barren region I had been traversing so long, still continued at a point where I had ever looked forward to some great and important change taking place in the features of the country, and from which I had hoped I might eventually have accomplished the object for which the expedition was fitted out. Such, however, was not the case; there was not any improvement in the appearance of the country, or the least indication that there might be a change for the better, within any practicable distance. I had already examined the tract of country from the longitude122 of Adelaide, to the parallel of almost 130 degrees E. longitude; an extent comprising nearly 8 1/2 degrees of longitude; without my having found a single point from which it was possible to penetrate123 for into the interior; and I now find myself in circumstances of so embarrassing and hopeless a character, that I have most reluctantly been compelled to give up all further idea of contending with obstacles which there is no reasonable hope of ever overcoming. I have now, therefore, with much regret completely broken up my small but devoted124 party. Two of my men returned to Adelaide in the Waterwitch, five weeks ago.
“Mr. Scott and another of my men proceed on Monday in the Hero; whilst myself, my native boys, and the overseer (who has chosen to accompany me) proceed hence overland to King George’s Sound, as soon as our horses are a little recruited by the abundant supply of forage125 we received by the Hero.
“In this undertaking, my young friend Mr. Scott — with his usual spirit and perseverance126 — was most anxious to have joined me; but painful as it has been to refuse, I have felt it my duty, from the nature of the service, not to comply with his request. It now only remains for me to return my most sincere thanks to the many friends to whose kindness I have been so much indebted during the continuance of this long and anxious undertaking. To his Excellency the Governor I feel that I can never be sufficiently grateful for the very kind, prompt, and liberal support and encouragement which I have invariably experienced, and to which I have been mainly indebted for the means of accomplishing even the little I have done. To yourself, as chairman, the committee, and the colonists, by whom the expedition was fitted out, I return my most sincere acknowledgments for the very great honour done me in appointing me to the command of an undertaking at once so interesting and important — for the liberal and kind way in which I have been supported, and my wishes complied with; and, above all, for the flattering and encouraging confidence expressed in my abilities and perseverance. To a conviction of the existence of this confidence in the minds of those by whom I was appointed, I feel that I owe much of the stimulus127 that has sustained and encouraged me under difficulties and disappointments of no ordinary kind. Deeply as I lament128 the unsuccessful and unsatisfactory result of an undertaking from which so much was expected, I have the cheering consciousness of having endeavoured faithfully to discharge the trust confided129 to me; and although from a concurrence130 of most unfortunate circumstances which no human prudence could foresee or guard against, and which the most untiring perseverance has been unable to surmount131, I have not succeeded in effecting the great objects for which this expedition was fitted out, I would fain hope that our labours have not been altogether in vain, but that hereafter, some future and more fortunate traveller, judging from the considerable extent of country we have examined, and the features it has developed, may, by knowing where the interior is not practicable, be directed to where it is.
“In concluding my report of our endeavours to penetrate the northern interior, I beg to express to all who have been connected with the expedition, my sincere thanks for their zeal99 and good conduct. In my young friend, Mr. Scott, I have had a cheerful companion and useful assistant; whilst in my overseer and men, I have met with a most praiseworthy readiness and steadiness of conduct, under circumstances and disappointments that have at once been trying and disheartening.
“I have the honour to be, Sir, your most obedient servant,
“EDWARD JOHN EYRE.
“The Chairman of the Committee for promoting the Northern Expedition.”
We were now alone, myself, my overseer, and three native boys, with a fearful task before us, the bridge was broken down behind us, and we must succeed in reaching King George’s Sound, or perish; no middle course remained. It was impossible for us to be insensible to the isolated132 and hazardous133 position we were in; but this very feeling only nerved and stimulated134 us the more in our exertions135, to accomplish the duty we had engaged in; the result we humbly136 left to that Almighty137 Being who had guided and guarded us hitherto, amidst all our difficulties, and in all our wanderings, and who, whatever he might ordain138, would undoubtedly139 order every thing for the best.
Our time was now entirely taken up, in the daily routine of the camp, attending to the sheep and horses, and in making preparations for our journey. We had a large supply of corn and bran sent for our horses, and as long as any of this remained, I determined to continue in depot.
In the mean time, the overseer was thoroughly140 occupied in preparing pack-saddles, (all of which we had to make) extra bridles141, new hobbles, and in shoeing all the horses. I undertook the duty of new stuffing and repairing the various saddles, making what extra clothes were required for myself and the native boys for our journey; weighing out and packing in small linen142 bags, all the rations6 of tea, sugar, etc. which would be required weekly, preparing strong canvas saddle-bags, making light oilskins to protect our things from the wet, etc. etc. These many necessary and important preparations kept us all very busy, and the time passed rapidly away. On one occasion, I attempted with one of my native boys, to explore the country due north of Fowler’s Bay, but the weather turned out unfavourable, the wind being from the north-east, and scorchingly hot; I succeeded, however, in penetrating143 fully twenty miles in the direction I had taken, the first ten of which was through a dense144 heavy scrub, of the Eucalyptus dumosa, or the tea-tree. Emerging from this, we entered an open pretty looking country, consisting of grassy plains of great extent, divided by belts of shrubs and bush; as we advanced the shrubs became less numerous, the country more open, and salsolaceous plants began to occupy the place of the grass. Had we been able to continue our exploration for another day’s journey, I have no doubt, from the change which appeared gradually to be taking place as we advanced north, that the whole country around would have been one vast level open waste, without bush or shrub23 of any kind, and covered by salsolae. I felt strongly convinced, we were gradually approaching a similar kind of country to that I had been in between Lake Torrens and Flinders range; the only difference was that as far as we had yet gone from Fowler’s Bay, the elevation of the country did not appear to have been diminished; its average height above the level of the sea, I judged to be about 300 feet, and forming doubtless a continuation of the table land, I had found existing at the head of the Great Bight. The weather, however, was as unfavourable as the country, for such researches, at this season of the year, and the horses I had taken out with me suffered a good deal, even in the short space of two days, during which I was engaged in this attempt.
On some occasions the thermometer was 113 degrees in the shade, and whenever the wind was from the north-east, it was hot and oppressive beyond all conception. The natives, though occasionally seen, generally kept away from us during the time we were in depot. One old man alone (called Mumma) came up to our camp, and remained with us for several days; he was one of the few who had accompanied us so far from the neighbourhood of Denial Bay, and seemed to have taken a great fancy to us. We now endeavoured to reward him for his former services, by giving him a red shirt, a blanket, and a tomahawk, and whenever we got our meals he joined us, eating and drinking readily any thing we gave him — tea, broth145, pease soup, mutton, salt pork, rice, damper, sugar, dried fruits, were all alike to him, nothing came amiss, and he appeared to grow better in condition every day.
At last he too got tired of remaining so long in one place; the novelty had worn away, and packing up his things he left us. During the time this man had been with us, I took the opportunity of ascertaining whether the King George’s Sound native, Wylie, could understand him, but I found he could not. There were one or two words common to both, but the general character, meaning, and sound of the two languages were so very different upon comparison, that I could myself understand the old man much better than Wylie could.
Whilst remaining in depot, the whole party were one day suddenly seized with a severe attack of illness, accompanied with vomiting146 and violent pain in the stomach, and I began to fear that we had unknowingly taken some deleterious ingredient in our food, as all were seized in the same way; this attack continued for several days, without our being able to discover the cause of it, but at last by changing the sugar we were using, we again got well. It appeared that a new bag of sugar had been broached147 about the time we were first attacked, and upon inspecting it, we found the bag quite wet — something or other of a deleterious character having been spilled over it, and which had doubtless caused us the inconvenience we experienced. Fortunately we had other sugar that had not been so injured, and the loss of the damaged bag was not of great consequence to us.
By the 23rd of February our preparations for entering upon our journey were nearly all completed, the horses had eaten up all their bran and corn, and were now in good condition; all our pack-saddles, saddles, and harness were ready, our provisions were all packed, and every thing in order for commencing the undertaking; there remained but to bury our surplus stores, and for this the hole was already dug. On the afternoon of the 24th I intended finally to evacuate148 the depot, and on the evening of the 23rd, to amuse my natives, I had all the rockets and blue-lights we had, fired off, since we could not take them with us, our pack-horses being barely able to carry for us the mere necessaries of life.
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1
westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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gutter
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| n.沟，街沟，水槽，檐槽，贫民窟 | |
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embarks
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| 乘船( embark的第三人称单数 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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rations
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| 定量( ration的名词复数 )； 配给量； 正常量； 合理的量 | |
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7
proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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tract
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| n.传单，小册子，大片(土地或森林) | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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12
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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13
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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14
lash
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| v.系牢；鞭打；猛烈抨击；n.鞭打；眼睫毛 | |
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15
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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16
pebbles
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| [复数]鹅卵石； 沙砾； 卵石，小圆石( pebble的名词复数 ) | |
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17
oar
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| n.桨，橹，划手；v.划行 | |
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18
strata
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| n.地层（复数）；社会阶层 | |
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19
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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20
severed
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| v.切断，断绝( sever的过去式和过去分词 )；断，裂 | |
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21
fissures
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| n.狭长裂缝或裂隙( fissure的名词复数 )；裂伤；分歧；分裂v.裂开( fissure的第三人称单数 ) | |
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22
plunge
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| v.跳入，(使)投入，(使)陷入；猛冲 | |
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23
shrub
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| n.灌木，灌木丛 | |
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24
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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25
eucalyptus
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| n.桉树，桉属植物 | |
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26
procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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27
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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28
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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29
conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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30
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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31
puddle
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| n.(雨)水坑，泥潭 | |
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32
slab
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| n.平板，厚的切片；v.切成厚板，以平板盖上 | |
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33
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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34
chagrin
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| n.懊恼；气愤；委屈 | |
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35
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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36
ascertaining
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的现在分词 ) | |
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37
inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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38
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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39
eel
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| n.鳗鲡 | |
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40
bestowed
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| 赠给，授予( bestow的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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41
eldest
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| adj.最年长的，最年老的 | |
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42
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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43
incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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44
incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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45
prudence
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| n.谨慎，精明，节俭 | |
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46
improvident
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| adj.不顾将来的，不节俭的，无远见的 | |
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47
literally
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| adv.照字面意义，逐字地；确实 | |
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48
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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49
inquiries
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| n.调查( inquiry的名词复数 )；疑问；探究；打听 | |
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50
margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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51
boggy
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| adj.沼泽多的 | |
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52
heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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53
brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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54
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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55
meditating
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| a.沉思的，冥想的 | |
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56
prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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57
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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58
ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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59
arid
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| adj.干旱的；(土地)贫瘠的 | |
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60
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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61
backwards
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| adv.往回地，向原处，倒，相反，前后倒置地 | |
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62
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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63
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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64
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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65
harassing
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| v.侵扰，骚扰( harass的现在分词 )；不断攻击（敌人） | |
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66
dreary
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| adj.令人沮丧的，沉闷的，单调乏味的 | |
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67
renewal
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| adj.(契约)延期，续订，更新，复活，重来 | |
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68
cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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69
justify
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| vt.证明…正当(或有理)，为…辩护 | |
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70
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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71
sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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72
jaded
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| adj.精疲力竭的；厌倦的；（因过饱或过多而）腻烦的；迟钝的 | |
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73
corroboration
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| n.进一步的证实，进一步的证据 | |
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74
veered
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| v.（尤指交通工具）改变方向或路线( veer的过去式和过去分词 )；（指谈话内容、人的行为或观点）突然改变；（指风） （在北半球按顺时针方向、在南半球按逆时针方向）逐渐转向；风向顺时针转 | |
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75
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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76
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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77
skilful
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| (=skillful)adj.灵巧的，熟练的 | |
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78
eminently
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| adv.突出地；显著地；不寻常地 | |
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79
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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80
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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81
inundated
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| v.淹没( inundate的过去式和过去分词 )；（洪水般地）涌来；充满；给予或交予（太多事物）使难以应付 | |
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82
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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83
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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84
tenor
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| n.男高音（歌手），次中音（乐器），要旨，大意 | |
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85
onerous
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| adj.繁重的 | |
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86
gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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87
disinterested
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| adj.不关心的，不感兴趣的 | |
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88
generosity
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| n.大度，慷慨，慷慨的行为 | |
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89
beset
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| v.镶嵌；困扰，包围 | |
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90
annoyances
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| n.恼怒( annoyance的名词复数 )；烦恼；打扰；使人烦恼的事 | |
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91
embarrassments
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| n.尴尬( embarrassment的名词复数 )；难堪；局促不安；令人难堪或耻辱的事 | |
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92
verging
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| 接近，逼近（verge的现在分词形式） | |
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93
justified
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| a.正当的，有理的 | |
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94
perilous
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| adj.危险的，冒险的 | |
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95
peril
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| n.(严重的)危险；危险的事物 | |
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96
contemplated
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| adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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97
undertaking
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| n.保证，许诺，事业 | |
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98
zealous
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| adj.狂热的，热心的 | |
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99
zeal
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| n.热心，热情，热忱 | |
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100
imperative
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| n.命令，需要；规则；祈使语气；adj.强制的；紧急的 | |
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101
affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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102
alluded
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| 提及，暗指( allude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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103
hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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104
industrious
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| adj.勤劳的，刻苦的，奋发的 | |
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105
fatigues
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| n.疲劳( fatigue的名词复数 )；杂役；厌倦；（士兵穿的）工作服 | |
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106
invaluable
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| adj.无价的，非常宝贵的，极为贵重的 | |
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107
fidelity
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| n.忠诚，忠实；精确 | |
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108
colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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109
disastrous
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| adj.灾难性的，造成灾害的；极坏的，很糟的 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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111
uneven
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| adj.不平坦的，不规则的，不均匀的 | |
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laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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113
acting
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| n.演戏，行为，假装；adj.代理的，临时的，演出用的 | |
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114
indented
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| adj.锯齿状的，高低不平的；缩进排版 | |
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115
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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116
speculation
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| n.思索，沉思；猜测；投机 | |
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117
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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118
interspersed
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| adj.[医]散开的；点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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119
snail
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| n.蜗牛 | |
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120
elevations
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| （水平或数量）提高( elevation的名词复数 )； 高地； 海拔； 提升 | |
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121
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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122
longitude
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| n.经线，经度 | |
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123
penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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125
forage
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| n.(牛马的)饲料，粮草；v.搜寻，翻寻 | |
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126
perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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127
stimulus
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| n.刺激，刺激物，促进因素，引起兴奋的事物 | |
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128
lament
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| n.悲叹，悔恨，恸哭；v.哀悼，悔恨，悲叹 | |
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129
confided
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| v.吐露（秘密，心事等）( confide的过去式和过去分词 )；（向某人）吐露（隐私、秘密等） | |
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130
concurrence
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| n.同意；并发 | |
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131
surmount
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| vt.克服；置于…顶上 | |
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132
isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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133
hazardous
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| adj.(有)危险的，冒险的；碰运气的 | |
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stimulated
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| a.刺激的 | |
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135
exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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136
humbly
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| adv. 恭顺地，谦卑地 | |
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137
almighty
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| adj.全能的，万能的；很大的，很强的 | |
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138
ordain
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| vi.颁发命令；vt.命令，授以圣职，注定，任命 | |
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139
undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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140
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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141
bridles
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| 约束( bridle的名词复数 )； 限动器； 马笼头； 系带 | |
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142
linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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143
penetrating
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| adj.（声音）响亮的，尖锐的adj.（气味）刺激的adj.（思想）敏锐的，有洞察力的 | |
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144
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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145
broth
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| n.原(汁)汤(鱼汤、肉汤、菜汤等) | |
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146
vomiting
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| 吐 | |
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147
broached
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| v.谈起( broach的过去式和过去分词 )；打开并开始用；用凿子扩大（或修光）；（在桶上）钻孔取液体 | |
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148
evacuate
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| v.遣送；搬空；抽出；排泄；大(小)便 | |
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