February 24. — THIS being the day I had appointed to enter upon the arduous5 task before me, I had the party up at a very early hour. Our loads were all arranged for each of the horses; our blankets and coats were all packed up, and we were in the act of burying in a hole under ground the few stores we could not take with us, when to our surprise a shot was heard in the direction of Fowler’s Bay, and shortly after a second; we then observed two people in the distance following up the dray tracks leading to the depot6. Imagining that some whaler had anchored in the bay, and being anxious to prevent our underground store from being noticed, we hastily spread the tarpaulins7 over the hole, so that what we were about could not be observed, and then fired shots in reply.
As the parties we had seen gradually approached nearer I recognised one of them with the telescope as being Mr. Germain, the master of the Hero; the other I could not make out at first from his being enveloped8 in heavy pilot clothes; a little time however enabled me to distinguish under this guise9 my young friend Mr. Scott, and I went anxiously to meet him, and learn what had brought him back. Our greeting over, he informed me that the Governor had sent him back with letters to me, and desired me to return in the Hero to Adelaide. As Mr. Scott had not brought the letters up, I walked down with him after luncheon10, and went on board the cutter, where I received many friendly letters, all urging me to return and give up the attempt I meditated11 to the westward, and which every one appeared to consider as little less than madness. From the Governor I received a kind letter to the same effect, offering to assist me in any further attempts I might wish to make round Lake Torrens, or to explore the Northern Interior, and placing absolutely at my disposal, within the colony, the services of the Hero, to enable me either to take my party back overland, or to follow out any examinations I might wish to make from the coast northerly. As a further inducement, and with a view to lessen12 the feelings of disappointment I might experience at the unsuccessful termination of an expedition from which such great results had been expected, the assistant commissioner13 had been instructed to write to me officially, communicating the approbation14 of His Excellency and of the Colonists15 of the way in which I had discharged the trust confided16 to me, and directing me to relinquish17 all further attempts to the westward, and to return in the Hero to Adelaide.
Added to the numerous letters I received, were many friendly messages to the same effect, sent to me through Mr. Scott. I felt deeply sensible of the lively interest expressed in my welfare, and most grateful for the kind feeling manifested towards me on the part of the Governor and the Colonists; it was with much pain and regret, therefore, that I found myself unable to comply with their requests, and felt compelled by duty to adopt a course at variance18 with their wishes. When I first broke up my party and sent Mr. Scott back to Adelaide, on the 31st January, 1841, I had well and maturely considered the step I felt myself called upon to adopt; after giving my best and serious attention to the arguments of my friends, and carefully reconsidering the subject now, I saw nothing to induce me to change the opinion I had then arrived at.
It will be remembered, that in stating the origin and commencement of the Northern expedition, it was remarked, that a previously20 contemplated21 expedition to the Westward, was made to give way to it, and that I had myself been principally instrumental in changing the direction of public attention from the one to the other; it will be remembered also, what publicity22 had been given to our departure, how great was the interest felt in the progress of our labours, and how sanguine23 were the expectations formed as to the results; alas24, how signally had these hopes been dashed to the ground, after the toils25, anxieties, and privations of eight months, neither useful nor valuable discoveries had been made; hemmed26 in by an impracticable desert, or the bed of an impassable lake, I had been baffled and defeated in every direction, and to have returned now, would have been, to have rendered of no avail the great expenses that had been incurred27 in the outfit28 of the expedition, to have thrown away the only opportunity presented to me of making some amends29 for past failure, and of endeavouring to justify30 the confidence that had been reposed31 in me, by carrying through the exploration which had been originally contemplated to the westward, now it was no longer possible to accomplish that to the north, for which it had given place; I considered myself in duty and in honour bound, not to turn back from this attempt, as long as there was the remotest possibility of success, without any regard to considerations of a personal or private nature. Under these feelings, therefore, I resolved to remain only another day in depot, to reply to the letters I had received, and return my best thanks to the many friends who had expressed such kind interest on my behalf.
February 25. — Having finished my letters, and buried all the spare stores, I sent the native boys away early with the sheep, that they might travel more slowly than we should do with the horses. About two we loaded the pack animals, and wishing Mr. Scott a final adieu, set off upon our route. The party consisted of myself, the overseer, three native boys, nine horses, one Timor pony32, one foal, born at Streaky Bay, and six sheep; our flour which was buried at the sand-hills to the north-west, was calculated for nine weeks, at an allowance of six pounds of flour each weekly, with a proportionate quantity of tea and sugar. The long rest our horses had enjoyed, and the large supply of oats and bran we had received for them, had brought them round wonderfully, they were now in good condition, and strong, and could not have commenced the journey under more favourable33 circumstances, had it been the winter instead of the summer season.
Two of the native boys having gone on early in the morning with the sheep, there remained only myself, the overseer, and one native, to manage ten horses, and we were consequently obliged to drive some of the pack-horses loose; at first they went well and quietly, but something having unluckily startled one of them, he frightened the others, and four out of the number set off at full gallop34, and never stopped for five miles, by which time they had got rid of all their loads except the saddles. Sending the black boy back to the depot with the four horses that had not got away, I and the overseer went on horseback after the others, picking up the baggage they had been carrying, scattered35 about in every direction; luckily no great damage was done, and at sunset we were all assembled again at the depot, and the animals reloaded. Leaving a short note for Mr. Scott, who had gone on board the cutter, we again recommenced our journey, and, travelling for five miles, halted at the well in the plains. I intended to have made a long stage, but the night set in so dark that I did not like to venture amongst the scrub with the pack-horses now they were so fresh, and where, if they did get frightened and gallop off, they would cause us much greater trouble and delay than they had done in the daytime.
February 26. — Moving on very early, we arrived at the grassy36 plain under the sand-hills, a little after three in the afternoon, just in time to save the gun and clothes of the black boys, which they had imprudently left there whilst they took the sheep to water, a mile and a half away. At the very instant of our arrival, a native was prowling about the camp, and would, doubtless, soon have carried off every thing. Upon examining the place at which we had buried our flour on the 31st December, and upon which we were now dependent for our supply, I found that we had only just arrived in time to save it from the depredations37 of the natives; it seems, that having found where the cask containing it was buried, and being unable, from its weight, to get it out of the ground, they had broken a square hole in one of the staves (by what means I could not discover), and though, as yet, every thing was safe and uninjured inside, I have no doubt, that, had we been one day later in coming, they would have enlarged the opening in the cask, and scattered or destroyed the contents, and we should have then had the unpleasant and laborious38 task of returning to that we had buried at Fowler’s Bay for a fresh supply. A bucket, which we had also left buried, was broken to pieces, a two gallon keg carried off, and a twenty-five gallon cask full of water had been dug up, and the water drank or emptied, so that we were very fortunate in arriving when we did to prevent further loss.
The black boys, who had gone a-head with the sheep, returned soon after our arrival, tired and hungry, having only had one meal since they left us on the 25th. They had been over the sandhills to fetch water, and were now coming to try and find the flour which they knew we had left buried at these plains. After dark, accompanied by the overseer, I took the horses down to the water, but the sand had slipped in, and we could not get them watered to-night.
February 27. — Sending the overseer and two boys down with the horses to the well this morning, I and the other boy set to work, and dug out the cask with the flour, which we then weighed out, and subdivided39 into packages of fifty pounds each, for the convenience of carrying. The native I had seen about the camp, on our approach, yesterday, had returned, and slept near us at night; but upon inquiring from him this morning, where our two-gallon keg was, he took the very earliest opportunity of decamping, being probably afraid that we should charge him with the robbery, or punish him for it. The natives, generally, are a strange and singular race of people, and their customs and habits are often quite inexplicable40 to us. Sometimes, in barely passing through a country, we have them gathering41 from all quarters, and surrounding us, anxious and curious to observe our persons, or actions; at other times, we may remain in camp for weeks together without seeing a single native, though many may be in the neighbourhood; when they do come, too, they usually depart as suddenly as their visit had been unexpected. Among all who had come under my observation, hitherto, along this coast, I found that every male had undergone the singular ceremony I have described as prevailing42 in the Port Lincoln peninsula; each, too, had the cartilage of the nose perforated, but none had lost the front teeth, nor did I see any (with one exception) having scars raised on the back, breast, or arms, as is frequently the case with many tribes in Australia.
For the last few days, the weather had been tolerably cool, and we had not been much troubled with musquitoes; instead, however, we were persecuted43 severely44 by a very large greyish kind of horsefly, with a huge proboscis45 for sucking up the blood. These pests were in great numbers, and proved a sad annoyance46, lighting47 upon us in every direction, and inflicting48 very irritating wounds even through clothes of considerable thickness.
February 28. — As we had a long distance to travel to the next water, and the sheep could not keep pace with the horses, I left the overseer and two natives to bring the latter after us, whilst I and the younger boy set off with the sheep. At fifteen miles, we passed the place where the nine-gallon keg of water had been buried on the 5th January. Upon digging it up, and taking out the bung, the water appeared discoloured and offensive in smell. It was still clear, however, and the sheep drank hastily of it, and we did the same ourselves, but the horses would not touch it. Leaving the cask out in the air with the bung out that it might sweeten a little against the overseer came up, we went on with the sheep to the undulating plains, arriving there between ten and eleven at night. After hobbling the horses, and making a brush-yard for the sheep, we laid down, tired with the labours of the day.
March 1. — Travelling through the plains for a mile, we came to our former encampment, where we had left some stores, and a large cask of water; the latter had dried up to about two quarts, and was very horrible, both in smell and flavour; but still we were glad to take it, for, calculating upon finding an abundance in this cask, we had imprudently brought but little with us. After breakfast, I dug up some of the provisions buried here; and leaving a note for the overseer, proceeded onwards with the boy, and the sheep, for twenty-four miles. The stage was a long one, and over heavy ground, so that the sheep began to get tired, as we did ourselves also, one of us being always obliged to walk whilst the other was riding. We had two horses with us, but required one exclusively to carry our coats, blankets, and provisions, the other one we rode in turn.
March 2. — A hot day, with the wind north-east. Between eleven and twelve we arrived at the first water, at the head of the Bight, and had a long and arduous task to get the sheep and horses watered, no natives being here to help us now, and the sand rushing in as fast as we could throw it out. By great exertion49 we effected our object, and then getting some tea, and leaving a note to tell the overseer not to halt at this difficult watering-place, if he could possibly avoid it, we pushed on again, and took up our position at Yeerkumban kauwe, in time to dig holes, and water the sheep, before dark.
March 3. — Having got up and watered the horses and sheep, I sent the boy out to tend them at grass, whilst I commenced digging two large holes to water the pack-horses, that there might be no delay when the overseer came up with them. I had nothing but a shell to dig with, and, as a very large excavation50 was required to enable a bucket to be dipped, my occupation was neither a light nor a short one. Having completed my work, I killed a sheep, well knowing the party would be fatigued51 and hungry, when they came up. About three they made their appearance, and thus, upon the whole, we had very successfully got over this our first push, and were soon very comfortably established at “Yeerkumban kauwe.” The holes I had dug enabled us easily and speedily to water the horses, and the sheep I had killed afforded a refreshing53 meal to the overseer and boys, after their harassing54 journey. In the afternoon the sand blew about in a most annoying manner, covering us from head to foot, and filling everything we put down, if but for an instant. This sand had been our constant torment4 for many weeks past; condemned55 to live among the sand-hills for the sake of procuring56 water, we were never free from irritation57 and inconvenience. It floated on the surface of the water, penetrated58 into our clothes, hair, eyes, and ears, our provisions were covered over with it, and our blankets half buried when we lay down at nights, — it was a perpetual and never-ceasing torment, and as if to increase our miseries59 we were again afflicted60 with swarms61 of large horse-flies, which bit us dreadfully. On the 4th, we remained in camp to rest the horses, and I walked round to reconnoitre. Upon the beach I found the fragments of a wreck62, consisting of part of a mast, a tiller wheel, and some copper63 sheathings, the last sad records of the fate of some unfortunate vessel64 on this wild and breaker-beaten shore. There was nothing to indicate its size, or name, or the period when the wreck occurred.
No recent traces of natives having been either at Yeerkumban kauwe, or the more distant water, were visible anywhere, and I imagined they might perhaps have made an excursion to the westward. A large flight of red-winged cockatoos were seen today hovering65 around the sand-hills, and appearing quite disconcerted at finding us in possession of the water; we had not before seen them in the neighbourhood, and I can hardly conjecture66 where they go to from this place, for generally they are birds fond of water.
Knowing from the accounts of the natives that upon leaving Yeerkumban kauwe, I should have a task before me of no ordinary difficulty to get either the sheep or the horses to the next water, I determined67 to proceed myself in advance, with the sheep, that by travelling slowly, at the same time that we kept steadily68 advancing, every chance might be given to them of accomplishing the journey in safety. I was anxious too to precede my party, in order that by finding out where the water was, I might be on the look out for them, to guide them to it, and that thus when in their greatest difficulty, no time should be lost in searching for water. Having given the overseer orders to keep the tracks of my horses, when he had travelled about seventy miles along the coast, I set off on the 7th March, with the youngest of the natives to assist me in driving the sheep, leaving the two elder ones with the overseer, to aid in managing the pack-horses. As before we took two horses with us, one to carry our provisions and water, and the other to ride upon in turn, the boy however, being young, and incapable69 of much fatigue52, the greater portion of the walking naturally fell to my share. The day was cool and favourable, and we accomplished70 a stage of twenty-four miles; the afternoon became dark and lowering, and I fully19 expected rain, but towards sunset two or three drops fell, and the clouds cleared away. Our horses fed tolerably upon the little withered71 grass that we found, but the sheep were too tired to eat, and lay down; we put them therefore into a yard we had made for them for the night.
March 8. — Having turned the sheep out of the yard three hours before daylight, I was in hopes they would have fed a little before we moved on, but they would not touch such food as we had for them, and at six I was obliged to proceed onwards; the morning was dark and looked like rain, but as was the case yesterday, a drop or two only fell. We made a stage to-day of twenty-six miles, through a level country, generally open, but near the sea covered with a very low dwarf72 tea-tree, small prickly bushes, and salsolae, and having the surface almost every where sprinkled over with fresh-water shells; further from the coast the plains extending to the north were very extensive, level, and divided by belts of scrub or shrubs73. There was no perceptible inclination74 of the country in any direction, the level land ran to the very borders of the sea, where it abruptly75 terminated, forming the steep and precipitous cliffs, observed by Captain Flinders, and which it was quite impossible to descend76 anywhere. The general elevation77 of this table land, was from three to four hundred feet.
The day turned out fine and clear, and the effect produced by refraction in these vast plains was singular and deceptive78: more than once we turned considerably79 out of our way to examine some large timber, as we thought it to be, to the north of us, but which, upon our approach, proved to be low scrubby bushes. At another time we imagined we saw two natives in the distance, and went towards them as carefully and cautiously as we could; instead, however, of our having seen the heads of natives, as we supposed, above the bushes, it turned out to be only crows. Yet the native boy, whose quickness and accuracy of vision had often before surprised me, was equally deceived with myself. Upon halting in the evening our sheep again were very tired, and refused to eat. The horses too were now beginning to feel the want of water, and fed but little. I therefore sat up and watched them until half past eight, after which I tied them up to some bushes. At one o’clock I again got up and let them loose, hoping they might feed a little better in the cool of the night. The scud80 was rapidly passing the moon, and I watched for hours the clouds gathering to the south and passing to the north, but no rain fell.
March 9. — Moving on early we passed through a similar country to that we had before traversed; but there was more of the tea-tree scrub, which made our travelling more difficult and fatiguing81. This kind of scrub, which is different from any I had seen before, is a low bush running along the ground, with very thick and crooked82 roots and branches, and forming a close matted and harassing obstacle to the traveller. The sheep and horses got very tired, from having to lift their legs so high to clear it every step they took. To the westward we found the country rising as we advanced, and the cliffs becoming higher; they now answered fully, where we could obtain a view of any projecting parts, to the description given by Flinders — ”the upper part brown and the lower part white;” but as yet we could not find any place where we could descend to examine them. The lower, or white part, appeared soft and crumbling83, and its decay had left the upper, or harder rock, fearfully overhanging the ocean. Upon the summits we again found flints in the greatest abundance lying loosely scattered over the surface.
The day was cloudy and gathering for rain, but none fell. After travelling twenty-five miles we halted for an hour or two to rest the sheep and horses, feeding was out of the question, for they were too much in want of water to attempt to cat the dry and withered grass around us. We now lay down to rest ourselves, and the boy soon fell asleep; I was however feverish84 and restless, and could not close my eyes. In an hour and a half I arose, got up the horses and saddled them, and then, awaking my companion, we again pushed on by moonlight. At ten miles we crossed a well beaten native pathway, plainly discernible even then, and this we followed down towards the cliffs, fully hoping it would lead to water. Our hopes however had been excited but to render our disappointment the greater, for upon tracing it onwards we found it terminate abruptly at a large circular hole of limestone85 rock, which would retain a considerable quantity of water after rains, but was now without a single drop. Gloomily turning away we again pushed on for eight miles further, and at three in the morning of the 10th were compelled to halt from downright exhaustion86 and fatigue. The horses and sheep were knocked up. The poor boy was so tired and sleepy that he could scarcely sit upon his horse, and I found myself actually dosing as I walked: mechanically my legs kept moving forwards, but my eyes were every now and then closed in forgetfulness of all around me, until I was suddenly thrown down by getting entangled87 amongst the scrub, or aroused by a severe blow across the face from the recoil88 of a bough89 after the passage of the boy’s horse. I now judged we had come about ninety-three miles from Yeerkumban-kauwe, and hoped that we could not be very far from water. Having tied up the horses for an hour or two, and without making a fire, or even unrolling our cloaks to cover us, we stretched ourselves on the ground, and were in a few moments fast asleep.
March 10. — At five we were again on our route, every moment expecting to see a break in the line of cliffs along which we had now travelled so far. Alas! they still continued stretching as far as the eye could see to the westward, and as fast as we arrived at one point which had bounded our vision (and beyond which we hoped a change might occur), it was but to be met with the view of another beyond. Distressing90 and fatal as the continuance of these cliffs might prove to us, there was a grandeur91 and sublimity92 in their appearance that was most imposing93, and which struck me with admiration94. Stretching out before us in lofty unbroken outline, they presented the singular and romantic appearance of massy battlements of masonry95, supported by huge buttresses96, and glittering in the morning sun which had now risen upon them, and made the scene beautiful even amidst the dangers and anxieties of our situation. It was indeed a rich and gorgeous view for a painter, and I never felt so much regret at my inability to sketch98 as I did at this moment.
Still we kept moving onwards and still the cliffs continued. Hour after hour passed away, mile after mile was traversed, and yet no change was observable. My anxiety for the party who were to follow behind with the pack-horses became very great; the state of doubt and uncertainty99 I was in was almost insupportable, and I began to fear that neither sheep nor horses would ever reach the water, even should we suceeed in doing so ourselves, which now appeared to be very doubtful. At noon I considered we had come one hundred and ten miles from the last water, and still the country remained the same. The cliffs indeed appeared to be gradually declining a little in elevation to the westward, but there was nothing to indicate their speedy termination. Our sheep still travelled, but they were getting so tired, and their pace was so slow, that I thought it would be better to leave them behind, and by moving more rapidly with the horses endeavour at least to save their lives. Foreseeing that such a contingency100 as this might occur, I had given the overseer strict orders to keep the tracks of my horses, that if I should be compelled to abandon the sheep he might find them and bring them on with his party.
Having decided101 upon this plan we set to work and made a strong high yard of such shrubs as we could find, and in this we shut up the sheep. I then wrote a note for the overseer, directing him to bury the loads of the horses, and hastening on with the animals alone endeavour to save their lives. To attract attention I raised a long stick above the sheep-yard, and tied to it a red handkerchief, which could be seen a long way off. At one we again proceeded, and were able to advance more rapidly than we could whilst the sheep were with us. In a few miles we came to a well-beaten native road, and again our hopes were raised of speedily terminating the anxiety and suspense102 we were in. Following the road for ten miles it conducted us to where the cliffs receded103 a little from the sea, leaving a small barren valley between them and the ocean, of low, sandy ground; the road ceased here at a deep rocky gorge97 of the cliffs, where there was a breach104 leading down to the valley. There were several deep holes among the rocks where water would be procurable105 after rains, but they were now all dry. The state of mind in which we passed on may be better imagined than described. We had now been four days without a drop of water for our horses, and we had no longer any for ourselves, whilst there appeared as little probability of our shortly procuring it as there had been two days ago. A break, it is true, had occurred in the line of the cliffs, but this appeared of a very temporary character, for we could see beyond them the valley again abutting106 upon the ocean.
At dark we were fifteen miles from where we left the sheep, and were again upon a native pathway, which we twice tried to follow down the steep and rugged107 slopes of the table land into the valley below. We were only, however, fagging our poor horses and bewildering ourselves to no purpose, for we invariably lost all track at the bottom, and I at last became convinced that it was useless to try and trace the natives’ roadway further, since it always appeared to stop at rocky holes where there was no water now. Keeping, therefore, the high ground, we travelled near the top of the cliffs, bounding the sandy valley, but here again a new obstacle impeded108 our progress. The country, which had heretofore been tolerably open was now become very scrubby, and we found it almost impossible either to keep a straight course, or to make any progress through it in the dark. Still we kept perseveringly109 onwards, leading our horses and forcing our way through in the best way we could. It was, however, all in vain; we made so little headway, and were so completely exhausting the little strength we had left, that I felt compelled to desist. The poor boy was quite worn out, and could scarcely move. I was myself but little better, and we were both suffering from a parching110 thirst; under such obstacles labour and perseverance111 were but thrown away, and I determined to await the day-light. After tying up the horses the boy lay down, and was soon asleep, happy in his ignorance of the dangers which threatened him. I lay down, too, but not to sleep; my own distresses112 were lost in the apprehensions113 which I entertained for those who were behind. We were now about one hundred and twenty-eight miles from the last water; we had been four whole days and nights without a drop for our horses, and almost without food also, (for parched114 as they were they could not feed upon the dry and withered grass we found.) The state the poor animals were in was truly pitiable, what then was likely to be the condition of those that were coming after us, and carrying heavy packs. It was questionable115, even, if they would reach the distance we had already attained116 in safety; and it was clear, that unless I discovered water early in the morning, the whole of our horses must perish, whilst it would be very doubtful if we could succeed even in saving our own lives.
March 11. — Early this morning we moved on, leading slowly our jaded117 animals through the scrub. The night had been one of painful suspense and gloomy forebodings; and the day set in dark and cloudy, as if to tantalise us with the hope of rain which was not destined118 to fall. In a few miles we reached the edge of the cliffs, from which we had a good view of the sandy valley we had been travelling round, but which the thick scrub had prevented our scrutinising sooner. I now noticed some hillocks of bare sand in the midst of it. These I had not seen before, as the only previous point from which they could have been visible had been passed by us in the dark. It now struck me, that the water spoken of by the natives at Yeerkumban-kauwe might be situated119 among these sand-hills, and that we were going away from instead of approaching it. The bare idea of such a possibility was almost maddening, and as the dreadful thought flashed across my mind I stood for a moment undecided and irresolute120 as to what I ought to do. We were now many miles past these hills, and if we went back to examine them for water, and did not find it, we could never hope that our horses would be able to return again to search elsewhere; whilst if there was water there, and we did not return, every step we took would but carry us further from it, and lead to our certain destruction.
For a few minutes I carefully scanned the line of coast before me. In the distance beyond a projecting point of the cliffs, I fancied I discerned a low sandy shore, and my mind was made up at once, to advance in the line we were pursuing. After a little while, we again came to a well beaten native pathway, and following this along the summit of the cliffs, were brought by it, in seven miles, to the point where they receded from the sea-shore; as they inclined inland, leaving a low sandy country between them and some high bare sand-hills near the sea. The road now led us down a very rocky steep part of the cliffs, near the angle where they broke away from the beach, but upon reaching the bottom we lost it altogether on the sandy shore; following along by the water’s edge, we felt cooled and refreshed by the sea air, and in one mile and a half from where we had descended121 the cliffs, we reached the white sand-drifts. Upon turning into these to search for water, we were fortunate enough to strike the very place where the natives had dug little wells; and thus on the fifth day of our sufferings, we were again blessed with abundance of water, — nor could I help considering it as a special instance of the goodness of Providence122, that we had passed the sandy valley in the dark, and had thereby123 been deterred124 from descending125 to examine the sand-hills it contained; had we done so, the extra fatigue to our horses and the great length of time it would have taken up, would probably have prevented the horses from ever reaching the water we were now at. It took us about two hours to water the animals, and get a little tea for ourselves, after which the boy laid down to sleep, and I walked round to search for grass. A little grew between the sand-drifts and the cliffs, and though dry and withered, I was most thankful to find it. I then returned to the camp and laid down, but could not sleep, for although relieved myself, my anxiety became but the greater, for the party behind, and the more so, because at present I could do nothing to aid them; it was impossible that either the horses, or ourselves, could go back to meet them without a few hours’ rest, and yet the loss of a few hours might be of the utmost consequence; I determined, however, to return and meet them as early as possible in the morning, and in the mean time, as I knew that the overseer and natives would, when they came, be greatly fatigued, and unable to dig holes to water the horses, I called up the boy, and with his assistance dug two large holes about five feet deep, from which the horses could readily and without delay be watered upon their arrival. As we had only some shells left by the natives to work with, our wells progressed slowly, and we were occupied to a late hour. In the evening we watered the horses, and before laying down ourselves, drove them to the grass I had discovered. For the first time for many nights, I enjoyed a sound and refreshing sleep.
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westward
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| n.西方，西部；adj.西方的，向西的；adv.向西 | |
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opportune
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| adj.合适的，适当的 | |
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tormenting
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| 使痛苦的，使苦恼的 | |
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torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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arduous
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| adj.艰苦的，费力的，陡峭的 | |
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depot
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| n.仓库，储藏处；公共汽车站；火车站 | |
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tarpaulins
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| n.防水帆布，防水帆布罩( tarpaulin的名词复数 ) | |
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enveloped
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| v.包围，笼罩，包住( envelop的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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guise
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| n.外表，伪装的姿态 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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11
meditated
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| 深思，沉思，冥想( meditate的过去式和过去分词 )； 内心策划，考虑 | |
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lessen
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| vt.减少，减轻；缩小 | |
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13
commissioner
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| n.（政府厅、局、处等部门）专员，长官，委员 | |
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14
approbation
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| n.称赞；认可 | |
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15
colonists
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| n.殖民地开拓者，移民，殖民地居民( colonist的名词复数 ) | |
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16
confided
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| v.吐露（秘密，心事等）( confide的过去式和过去分词 )；（向某人）吐露（隐私、秘密等） | |
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17
relinquish
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| v.放弃，撤回，让与，放手 | |
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18
variance
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| n.矛盾，不同 | |
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19
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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20
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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21
contemplated
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| adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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22
publicity
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| n.众所周知，闻名；宣传，广告 | |
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23
sanguine
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| adj.充满希望的，乐观的，血红色的 | |
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24
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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25
toils
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| 网 | |
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26
hemmed
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| 缝…的褶边( hem的过去式和过去分词 )； 包围 | |
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27
incurred
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| [医]招致的，遭受的； incur的过去式 | |
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28
outfit
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| n.（为特殊用途的）全套装备，全套服装 | |
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29
amends
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| n. 赔偿 | |
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30
justify
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| vt.证明…正当(或有理)，为…辩护 | |
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31
reposed
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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32
pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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33
favourable
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| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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34
gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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35
scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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36
grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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37
depredations
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| n.劫掠，毁坏( depredation的名词复数 ) | |
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38
laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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39
subdivided
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| 再分，细分( subdivide的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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40
inexplicable
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| adj.无法解释的，难理解的 | |
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41
gathering
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| n.集会，聚会，聚集 | |
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42
prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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43
persecuted
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| （尤指宗教或政治信仰的）迫害(~sb. for sth.)( persecute的过去式和过去分词 )； 烦扰，困扰或骚扰某人 | |
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44
severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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45
proboscis
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| n.（象的）长鼻 | |
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46
annoyance
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| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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47
lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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48
inflicting
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| 把…强加给，使承受，遭受( inflict的现在分词 ) | |
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49
exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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50
excavation
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| n.挖掘，发掘；被挖掘之地 | |
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51
fatigued
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| adj. 疲乏的 | |
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52
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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53
refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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54
harassing
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| v.侵扰，骚扰( harass的现在分词 )；不断攻击（敌人） | |
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55
condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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56
procuring
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的现在分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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57
irritation
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| n.激怒，恼怒，生气 | |
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58
penetrated
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| adj. 击穿的，鞭辟入里的 动词penetrate的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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59
miseries
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| n.痛苦( misery的名词复数 )；痛苦的事；穷困；常发牢骚的人 | |
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60
afflicted
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| 使受痛苦，折磨( afflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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61
swarms
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| 蜂群，一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
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62
wreck
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| n.失事，遇难；沉船；vt.(船等)失事，遇难 | |
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63
copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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64
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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65
hovering
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| 鸟( hover的现在分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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66
conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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67
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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68
steadily
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| adv.稳定地；不变地；持续地 | |
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69
incapable
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| adj.无能力的，不能做某事的 | |
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70
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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71
withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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72
dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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73
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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74
inclination
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| n.倾斜；点头；弯腰；斜坡；倾度；倾向；爱好 | |
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75
abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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76
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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77
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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78
deceptive
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| adj.骗人的，造成假象的，靠不住的 | |
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79
considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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80
scud
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| n.疾行；v.疾行 | |
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81
fatiguing
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| a.使人劳累的 | |
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82
crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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83
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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84
feverish
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| adj.发烧的，狂热的，兴奋的 | |
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85
limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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86
exhaustion
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| n.耗尽枯竭，疲惫，筋疲力尽，竭尽，详尽无遗的论述 | |
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87
entangled
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| adj.卷入的；陷入的；被缠住的；缠在一起的v.使某人（某物/自己）缠绕，纠缠于（某物中），使某人（自己）陷入（困难或复杂的环境中）( entangle的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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88
recoil
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| vi.退却，退缩，畏缩 | |
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89
bough
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| n.大树枝，主枝 | |
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90
distressing
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| a.使人痛苦的 | |
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91
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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92
sublimity
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| 崇高，庄严，气质高尚 | |
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93
imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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94
admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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95
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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96
buttresses
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| n.扶壁，扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑，加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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97
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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98
sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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99
uncertainty
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| n.易变，靠不住，不确知，不确定的事物 | |
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100
contingency
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| n.意外事件，可能性 | |
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101
decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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102
suspense
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| n.（对可能发生的事）紧张感，担心，挂虑 | |
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103
receded
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的过去式和过去分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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104
breach
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| n.违反，不履行；破裂；vt.冲破，攻破 | |
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105
procurable
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| adj.可得到的，得手的 | |
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106
abutting
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| adj.邻接的v.（与…）邻接( abut的现在分词 )；（与…）毗连；接触；倚靠 | |
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107
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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108
impeded
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| 阻碍，妨碍，阻止( impede的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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109
perseveringly
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| 坚定地 | |
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110
parching
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| adj.烘烤似的，焦干似的v.（使）焦干， （使）干透( parch的现在分词 )；使（某人）极口渴 | |
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111
perseverance
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| n.坚持不懈，不屈不挠 | |
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112
distresses
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| n.悲痛( distress的名词复数 )；痛苦；贫困；危险 | |
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113
apprehensions
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| 疑惧 | |
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114
parched
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| adj.焦干的；极渴的；v.（使）焦干 | |
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115
questionable
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| adj.可疑的，有问题的 | |
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116
attained
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| （通常经过努力）实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 )； 达到； 获得； 达到（某年龄、水平、状况） | |
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117
jaded
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| adj.精疲力竭的；厌倦的；（因过饱或过多而）腻烦的；迟钝的 | |
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118
destined
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| adj.命中注定的；(for)以…为目的地的 | |
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119
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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120
irresolute
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| adj.无决断的，优柔寡断的，踌躇不定的 | |
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121
descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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122
providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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123
thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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124
deterred
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| v.阻止，制止( deter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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125
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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