We reached the muddy creek at the foot of the hills at 2 p.m., after a ride of 25 miles, over the stony11 and barren plains I have described, and as the distance to the next water was too great for us to attempt reaching it until late, we stopped here for the night. Some natives had been on the creek in the early part of the day, and had apparently12 moved down it to the eastward. The water had diminished fearfully since the time we passed on our return from the north.
The day was cool and pleasant, as the wind blew from the south, and the thermometer did not rise above 95 degrees.
We had not ridden four miles on the following morning, when we observed several natives on the plain at a little distance to the south, to whom we called out, and who immediately came to us. We stopped with these people for more than two hours, in the hope that we should gain some information from them, either as to when we might expect rain, or of the character of the distant interior, but they spoke13 a language totally different from the river tribes, although they had some few words in common, so that I could not rely on my interpretation14 of what they said. They were all of them circumcised, and all but one wanted the right front tooth of the upper jaw15. When we left these people I gave them a note for Mr. Poole, in the faint hope that they would deliver it, and I explained to them that he would give them a tomahawk and blankets, but, as I afterwards learnt, they never went to the camp.
When Mr. Browne and I were in this neighbourhood before, he had some tolerable sport shooting the new pigeon, the flesh of which was most delicious. At that time they were feeding upon the seed of the rice grass, and were scattered16 about, but we now found them, as well as many other birds, congregated17 in vast numbers preparing to migrate to the north-east, apparently their direct line of migration18; they were comparatively wild, so that our only chance of procuring19 any was when they came to water.
On the 9th we slept at the water in the creek at the top of the ranges; but, on the 10th, instead of going through the pass, and by the valley, under the two little peaks, through which we had entered the plains on the first journey, we now turned to the westward in order to avoid that rugged20 line, and discovered that the creek, instead of losing itself in the flat to the eastward, continued on a westerly course to our left; for being attracted by a flight of pigeons, wheeling round some gum-trees, we might otherwise have overlooked it; I sent Flood to examine the ground, who returned with the pleasing information that the creek had reformed, and that there was a pool of water under the trees, nearly as large as the one we had just left.
I was exceedingly pleased at this discovery and determined to send Mr. Stuart back to it, as it would place him nearer his work. We reached the farthest water, from which we had the second time driven the poor native, late in the afternoon, and on examining the hut, found he had ventured back to it and taken away his traps; but the water in the creek was almost dried up; thick, muddy, and putrid21, we could hardly swallow it, and I regretted that we had not brought water with us from the hills, but I had been influenced by a desire to spare my poor horse, as I knew the task that was before him, although the poor brute22 was little aware of it. About sunset an unfortunate emu came to water, and unconsciously approached us so near that Flood shot it with his fusee. This was a solitary23 wanderer, for we had seen very few either of these birds or kangaroos in these trackless solitudes24.
On the morning of the 10th we were up early, and had loaded the cart with 69 gallons of water before breakfast, when Joseph and I took our departure, and Mr. Stuart with Flood returned to the hills. I had selected one of our best horses for this journey, an animal I had purchased from Mr. Frew of Adelaide. He was strong, powerful, and in good condition, therefore well qualified25 for the journey. I had determined on keeping a general north course, but in the kind of country in which I soon found myself it was impossible to preserve a direct line. At about four miles from the creek the brush became thick, and the country sandy, and at six miles the sand ridges26 commenced. Wishing to ease the horse as much as possible, Joseph endeavoured to round them by keeping on the intervening flats, but this necessarily lengthened27 the day’s journey, and threw me more to the eastward than I had intended. A noon I halted for two hours, and then pushed on, the day being cool, with the wind as it had been for the last three or four days from the south. Had the country continued as it was, we might have got on tolerably, but as we advanced it changed greatly for the worse. We lost the flats, on a general coating of sand thickly matted with spinifex, through which it was equally painful to ourselves and poor Punch to tread. We crossed small sandy basins or hollows, and were unable to see to any distance. The only trees growing in this terrible place were a few acacias in the hollows, and some straggling melaleuca, with hakeae and one or two other common shrubs28, all of low growth; there was no grass, neither were the few herbs that grew on the hollows such as the horse would eat. We stopped a little after sunset, having journeyed about 22 miles, on a small flat on which there were a few acacias, and some low silky grass as dry as a chip, so that if we had not been provident29 in bringing some oats poor Punch would have gone without his supper. A meridian30 altitude of Capella placed us in lat. 28 degrees 41 minutes 0 seconds. Our longitude31 by account being 141 degrees 15 minutes E. When I rose at daylight on the following morning, I observed that the horse had eaten but little of the dry and withered32 food on which he had been tethered; however, in consequence of our tank leaking, I was enabled to give him a good drink, when he seemed to revive, but no sooner commenced pulling than he perspired33 most profusely34. We kept a more regular course than on the previous day, over a country that underwent no change. Before we started I left a nine gallon cask of water in a small flat to ease the horse, and as the water in the tank had almost all leaked out, his load was comparatively light. Still it was a laborious35 task to draw the cart over such a country. Fortunately for us the weather was cool, as the wind continued south, for I do not know what we should have done if we had been exposed to the same heat Mr. Browne and myself had experienced on our return from the little stony ranges now about 10 miles to the westward of us. A little before noon the wind shifted to the N.E.; I had at this time stopped to rest the horse, but we immediately experienced a change of temperature, and the thermometer which stood at 81 degrees rose before we again started to 93 degrees, and at half-past three had attained36 119 degrees. We were then in one of the most gloomy regions that man ever traversed. The stillness of death reigned37 around us, no living creature was to be heard; nothing visible inhabited that dreary38 desert but the ant, even the fly shunned39 it, and yet its yielding surface was marked all over with the tracks of native dogs.
We started shortly after noon, and passed a pointed40 sand-hill, from whence we could not only see the stony range but also the main range of hills. The little peak on which Mr. Browne and I took bearings on our last journey bore 150 degrees, the pass through which we had descended41 into the plains 170 degrees, when I turned however to take bearings of the stony range it had disappeared, having been elevated by refraction above its true position. It bore about N.W. 1/2 W., distant from eight to nine miles. It was again some time after sunset before we halted, on a small flat that might contain two or at the most three acres. There was some silky grass upon it, but this I knew the horse would not eat, neither had I more than a pint42 of oats to give him. Our latitude43 here was 28 degrees 22 minutes 0 seconds.
On the morning of the 13th we still pushed on, leaving, as before, a cask of water to pick up on our return. I had been obliged to limit the horse to six gallons a day, but where he had been in the habit of drinking from 25 to 30, so small a quantity would not suffice. We had not gone many miles when he shewed symptoms of exhaustion44, and rather tottered45 than walked. He took no pains to avoid anything, but threw Joseph into every bush he passed. The country still continued unchanged, sand and spinifex were the universal covering of the land, and only round the edges of the little flats were a few stunted46 shrubs to be seen. It was marvellous to me that such a country should extend to so great a distance without any change. I could at no time see beyond a mile in any direction. Several flights of parrots flew over our heads to the north-west, at such an elevation47 as led me to suppose they would not pitch near us; but not a bird of any kind did we see in the desert itself. The day being exceedingly hot I stopped at one, rather from necessity than inclination48, having travelled 12 or 14 miles. Both Joseph and myself had walked the whole way, and our legs were full of the sharp ends of the spinifex, but it was more in mercy to poor Punch than to ourselves that I pulled up, and held a consultation49 with Joseph as to the prudence50 of taking the cart any further, when it was decided51 that our doing so would infallibly lead to Punch’s destruction. According to my calculation we were now in latitude 28 degrees 9 minutes 0 seconds or thereabouts. I had hoped to have advanced some 60 miles beyond this point, but now found that it would be impossible to do so. There was no indication of a change of country from any rising ground near us, and as it was still early in the day I resolved on pushing forward until I should feel satisfied that I had passed into the 27th parallel; my reason for this being a desire to know what the character of the country, so far in the interior from, and in the same parallel as Moreton Bay, would be. I had intended tethering Punch out, and walking with Joseph, but as he remonstrated52 with me, and it did not appear that my riding him would do the horse any harm, I mounted, though without a saddle, and taking our guns, with a quart of water, we commenced our journey. We moved rapidly on, as I was anxious to return to the cart whilst there was yet daylight, to enable us to keep our tracks, but no material change took place in the aspect of the country. We crossed sand-ridge after sand-ridge only to meet disappointment, and I had just decided on turning, when we saw at the distance of about a quarter of a mile from us, a little rounded hill some few feet higher than any we had ascended53. It was to little purpose however that we extended our ramble54 to it. At about a mile from where we left the cart, we had crossed two or three small plains, if pieces of ground not a quarter of a mile long might be so termed, on which rhagodia bushes were growing, and I had hoped that this trifling55 change would have led to a greater, but as I have stated such did not prove to be the case. From the top of the little hill to which we walked (and from which we could see to a distance of six or eight miles, but it was difficult to judge how far the distant horizon was from us), there was no apparent change, but the brush in the distance was darker than that nearer to us, as if plains succeeded the sandy desert we had passed over. The whole landscape however was one of the most gloomy character, and I found myself obliged to turn from it in disappointment. As far as I could judge we passed about a mile beyond the 28th parallel. Our longitude by account only being 141 degrees 18 minutes E. The boiling point of water was 211 degrees 75/100. The evening had closed in before we got back to the cart, but our course was fortunately true, and having given poor Punch as liberal a draught56 as reason would justify57 we laid down to rest.
It was with great difficulty that we got our exhausted58 animal on, the following morning, although I again gave him as much water as I could spare. His docility59 under urgent want of food was astonishing. He was in fact troublesomely persevering60, and walked round and round the cart and over us as we sat drinking our tea, smelling at the casks, and trying to get his nose into the bung holes, and implored61 for relief as much as an animal could do so by looks. Yet I am satisfied that a horse is not capable of strong attachment62 to man, but that he is a selfish brute, for however kindly63 he may be treated, where is the horse that will stay, like the dog, at the side of his master to the last, although hunger and thirst are upon him, and who, though carnivorous himself, will yet guard the hand that has fed him and expire upon its post? but, turn the horse loose at night, and where will you find him in the morning, though your life depended on his stay?
We reached the creek on the morning of the 14th, about half-past 10, having still a gallon of water remaining, that was literally64 better than the water in the muddy puddle65 from which we had originally taken it. I had thought it probable that we might find either Flood or Mr. Stuart awaiting our return, but not seeing any trace of recent feet I concluded they were in the ranges, and as the distance was too great for the horse to travel in a day, in his exhausted state, I pushed on at 4 p.m., and halted on the plains after having ridden about 6 miles. It was well indeed that I did so, for we did not gain the ranges until near sunset on the following day. Our exhausted horse could hardly drag one leg after the other, although he pricked66 up his ears and for a time quickened his pace as he fell into the track of the cart coming out. Both Mr. Stuart and Flood were astonished at the manner in which he had fallen off, nor did he ever after recover from the effects of that journey.
Mr. Stuart had completed his work with great accuracy, and had filled in the chart so much that he saved me a good deal of trouble. The 16th being Sunday, was a day of rest to us all, but one of excessive heat. Mr. Stuart had stationed himself in the bed of the creek, which sloped down on either side, and was partially67 shaded by gum-trees. The remains68 of what must have been a fine pond of water occupied the centre, and although it was thick and muddy it was as nectar to myself and Joseph. I was surprised and delighted to see that the creek had here so large a channel, and Flood, who had ridden down it a few miles, assured me that it promised very well. During my absence he had shot at and wounded one of the new pigeons, which afterwards reached my house alive.
I had intended proceeding69 to the eastward on my return from the north, but was prevented by the total failure of water. I therefore determined to trace the creek down, in the hope that it would favour my advance with the party into the interior. On the 17th, therefore, leaving Joseph to take care of Punch, I mounted my horse, and with Mr. Stuart and Flood, rode away to the westward. At first the creek held a course between S. W. and W. S. W. occasionally spreading over large flats, but always reforming and increasing in size. It ran through a flat valley, bounded by sand hills, against which it occasionally struck. The soil of the valley was not bad, but there was little or no vegetation upon it. At 15 miles we arrived at the junction70 of another creek from the south, and running down their united channels, at three miles found a small quantity of water in a deep and shaded hollow. It was but a scanty71 supply however, yet being cleaner and purer than any we had for some time seen, I stopped and had some tea. There was a native’s hut on the bank, from which the owner must have fled at our approach; it was quite new, and afforded me shelter during our short halt. The fugitive72 had left some few valuables behind him, and amongst them a piece of red ochre. From this point the creek trended more to the north, spreading over numerous flats in times of flood, dividing its channels into many smaller ones, but always uniting into one at the extremity73 of the flats. At 21 miles the creek changed its course to 20 degrees to the west of north, and the country became more open and level. There were numerous traces of natives along its banks, and the remains of small fires on either side of it as far as we could see. It was, therefore, evident that at certain seasons of the year they resorted to it in some numbers, and I was then led to hope for a favourable74 change in the aspect of the country.
The gum-trees as we proceeded down the creek increased in size, and their foliage75 was of a vivid green. The bed of the creek was of pure sand, as well as the plains through which it ran, although there was alluvial76 soil partially mixed with the sand, and they had an abundance of grass upon them, the seed having been collected by the natives for food. At about 14 miles from the place where we stopped, the creek lost its sandy bed, and got one of tenacious77 clay. We soon afterwards pulled up for the night, at two pools of water that were still of considerable size, and on which there were several new ducks. They must, indeed, have been large deep ponds not many weeks before, but had now sunk several feet from their highest level, and, however valuable to a passing traveller, were useless in other respects, as our cattle would have drained them in three or four days. From this place also the natives appeared to have suddenly retreated, since there was a quantity of the Grass9 spread out on the sloping bank of the creek to dry, or ripen78 in the sun. We could not, however, make out to what point they had gone. The heat during the day had been terrific, in so much that we were unable to keep our feet in the stirrups, and the horses perspired greatly, although never put out of a walk.
9. “Panicum laevinode” of Dr. Lindley.
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1 tangible | |
adj.有形的,可触摸的,确凿的,实际的 | |
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2 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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3 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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4 penetrate | |
v.透(渗)入;刺入,刺穿;洞察,了解 | |
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5 ascertain | |
vt.发现,确定,查明,弄清 | |
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6 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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7 westward | |
n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
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8 protracted | |
adj.拖延的;延长的v.拖延“protract”的过去式和过去分词 | |
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9 creeks | |
n.小湾( creek的名词复数 );小港;小河;小溪 | |
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10 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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11 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
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12 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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13 spoke | |
n.(车轮的)辐条;轮辐;破坏某人的计划;阻挠某人的行动 v.讲,谈(speak的过去式);说;演说;从某种观点来说 | |
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14 interpretation | |
n.解释,说明,描述;艺术处理 | |
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15 jaw | |
n.颚,颌,说教,流言蜚语;v.喋喋不休,教训 | |
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16 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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17 congregated | |
(使)集合,聚集( congregate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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18 migration | |
n.迁移,移居,(鸟类等的)迁徙 | |
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19 procuring | |
v.(努力)取得, (设法)获得( procure的现在分词 );拉皮条 | |
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20 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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21 putrid | |
adj.腐臭的;有毒的;已腐烂的;卑劣的 | |
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22 brute | |
n.野兽,兽性 | |
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23 solitary | |
adj.孤独的,独立的,荒凉的;n.隐士 | |
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24 solitudes | |
n.独居( solitude的名词复数 );孤独;荒僻的地方;人迹罕至的地方 | |
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25 qualified | |
adj.合格的,有资格的,胜任的,有限制的 | |
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26 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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27 lengthened | |
(时间或空间)延长,伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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28 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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29 provident | |
adj.为将来做准备的,有先见之明的 | |
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30 meridian | |
adj.子午线的;全盛期的 | |
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31 longitude | |
n.经线,经度 | |
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32 withered | |
adj. 枯萎的,干瘪的,(人身体的部分器官)因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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33 perspired | |
v.出汗,流汗( perspire的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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34 profusely | |
ad.abundantly | |
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35 laborious | |
adj.吃力的,努力的,不流畅 | |
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36 attained | |
(通常经过努力)实现( attain的过去式和过去分词 ); 达到; 获得; 达到(某年龄、水平、状况) | |
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37 reigned | |
vi.当政,统治(reign的过去式形式) | |
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38 dreary | |
adj.令人沮丧的,沉闷的,单调乏味的 | |
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39 shunned | |
v.避开,回避,避免( shun的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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40 pointed | |
adj.尖的,直截了当的 | |
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41 descended | |
a.为...后裔的,出身于...的 | |
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42 pint | |
n.品脱 | |
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43 latitude | |
n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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44 exhaustion | |
n.耗尽枯竭,疲惫,筋疲力尽,竭尽,详尽无遗的论述 | |
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45 tottered | |
v.走得或动得不稳( totter的过去式和过去分词 );踉跄;蹒跚;摇摇欲坠 | |
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46 stunted | |
adj.矮小的;发育迟缓的 | |
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47 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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48 inclination | |
n.倾斜;点头;弯腰;斜坡;倾度;倾向;爱好 | |
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49 consultation | |
n.咨询;商量;商议;会议 | |
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50 prudence | |
n.谨慎,精明,节俭 | |
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51 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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52 remonstrated | |
v.抗议( remonstrate的过去式和过去分词 );告诫 | |
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53 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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54 ramble | |
v.漫步,漫谈,漫游;n.漫步,闲谈,蔓延 | |
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55 trifling | |
adj.微不足道的;没什么价值的 | |
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56 draught | |
n.拉,牵引,拖;一网(饮,吸,阵);顿服药量,通风;v.起草,设计 | |
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57 justify | |
vt.证明…正当(或有理),为…辩护 | |
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58 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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59 docility | |
n.容易教,易驾驶,驯服 | |
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60 persevering | |
a.坚忍不拔的 | |
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61 implored | |
恳求或乞求(某人)( implore的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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62 attachment | |
n.附属物,附件;依恋;依附 | |
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63 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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64 literally | |
adv.照字面意义,逐字地;确实 | |
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65 puddle | |
n.(雨)水坑,泥潭 | |
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66 pricked | |
刺,扎,戳( prick的过去式和过去分词 ); 刺伤; 刺痛; 使剧痛 | |
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67 partially | |
adv.部分地,从某些方面讲 | |
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68 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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69 proceeding | |
n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
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70 junction | |
n.连接,接合;交叉点,接合处,枢纽站 | |
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71 scanty | |
adj.缺乏的,仅有的,节省的,狭小的,不够的 | |
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72 fugitive | |
adj.逃亡的,易逝的;n.逃犯,逃亡者 | |
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73 extremity | |
n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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74 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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75 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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76 alluvial | |
adj.冲积的;淤积的 | |
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77 tenacious | |
adj.顽强的,固执的,记忆力强的,粘的 | |
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78 ripen | |
vt.使成熟;vi.成熟 | |
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