At about a quarter of a mile below the ponds the creek2 spreads over an immense plain, almost as large as that of Cawndilla. A few trees marked its course to a certain distance, but beyond them all trace of its channel was lost, nor was it possible from the centre of the plain to judge at what point its waters escaped. The plain was surrounded by sand hills of about thirty feet in elevation3, covered with low scrub. When we started in the morning we crossed it on a west course, but saw nothing to attract our notice from the tops of the sand hills. We then turned to the northward4, and at about two miles entered a pretty, well wooded, but confined valley, in the bottom of which we once more found ourselves on the banks of the creek. Running it down in a north-west direction for seven miles, we were at length stopped by a bank of white saponaceous clay, crossing the valley like a wall. As we rode down the creek we observed large plains of red soil, precisely5 similar to the plains of the Darling, receding6 from it to a great distance on either side. These plains had deep water-worn gutters7 leading into the valley, so that I conclude the lateral8 floods it receives are as copious9 as those from the hills. On arriving at the bank running across the channel there were signs of eddying10 waters, as if those of the creek had been thrown back; but there was a low part in the bank over which it is evident they pour when they rise to its level. Mr. Stuart and Flood were the first to ascend11 the bank, and both simultaneously12 exclaimed that a change of country was at hand. On ascending13 the bank myself, I looked to the west and saw a beautiful park-like plain covered with grass, having groups of ornamental14 trees scattered15 over it. Whether it was the suddenness of the change, from barrenness and sterility16 to verdure and richness, I know not; but I thought, when I first gazed on it, that I never saw a more beautiful spot. It was, however, limited in extent, being not more than eight miles in circumference17. Descending18 from the bank we crossed the plain on a south course. It was encircled by a line of gum-trees, between whose trunks the white bank of clay was visible. We crossed the plain amidst luxuriant grass; but the ground was rotten, and the whole area was evidently subject to flood. It was also clear that the creek exhausted19 itself in this extensive basin, from which, after the strictest search, we could find no outlet20. On reaching the southern extremity21 of the plain, we crossed a broad bare channel, having a row of gum-trees on either side, and ascending a continuation of the clay bank, at once found ourselves in the scrub and amidst barrenness again; and at less than a mile, on a north-west course, beheld22 the sand ridges23 once more rising before us. I continued on this course, however, for eight miles, when I turned to the north-east, in order to cut any watercourse that might be in that direction, and to assure myself of the failure of the creek. After riding for five miles, I turned to the south, with the intention of ascending a sand hill at some distance, that swept the horizon in a semicircular form and was much higher than any others. Mr. Poole had informed me that he noticed a similar bank just before he made Lake Torrens, and I was anxious to see if it hid any similar basin from my view; but it did not. Sand hills of a similar kind succeeded it to the westward24, but there was no change of country. Although we had travelled many miles, yet the zigzag25 course we had taken had been such that at this point we were not more than sixteen miles from the pools we had left in the morning; and as the day had been intolerably hot, and we had found no water, I determined26 on returning to them; but I was obliged to stop for a time for Flood, who complained of a violent pain in his head, occasioned by the intense heat. There was no shelter, however, for him under the miserable27 shrubs28 that surrounded us; but I stopped for half an hour, during which the horses stood oppressed by languor29, and without the strength to lift up their heads, whilst their tails shook violently. Being anxious to get to water without delay, I took a straight line for the water-holes, and reached them at half-past 6 p.m., after an exposure, from morning till night, to as great a heat as man ever endured; but if the heat of this day was excessive, that of the succeeding one on which we returned to Joseph was still more so. We reached our destination at 3 p.m., as we started early, and on looking at the thermometer fixed30 behind a tree about five feet from the ground, I found the mercury standing31 at 132 degrees; on removing it into the sun it rose to 157 degrees. Only on one occasion, when Mr. Browne and I were returning from the north, had the heat approached to this; nor did I think that either men or animals could have lived under it.
On the 20th we again crossed the ranges, and after a journey of 32 miles, reached the lateral creek at their southern extremity, where I had rested on my former journey. There was more water in it than I expected to have found; but it was nevertheless much reduced, and in a week afterwards was probably dry. On the 21st we gained the Muddy Creek, but had to search for water where only a few days before there had been a pond of more than a third of a mile in length. Here, on the following day, I was obliged to leave Flood and Joseph, as the wheels of the cart had shrunk so much that we could not take it on. I should have gained the camp early in the day, but turned to the eastward32 to take bearings from some hills intermediate between Mount Poole and the Northern Range, as the distance between these points was too great. Our ride was over a singularly rugged33 country, of equally singular geological formation, nor can I doubt but that at one time or other there were currents sweeping34 over it in every direction. At one place that we passed there was a broad opening in a rocky but earth covered bank. Through this opening the eye surveyed a long plain, which at about two miles was bounded by low dark hills. Along this plain the channel of a stream was as distinctly marked in all its windings35 by small fragments of snow-white quartz36 as if water had been there instead. On either side the landscape was dark; but the effect was exceedingly striking and unusual. From the hills we ascended37 I obtained bearings to every station of consequence, and was quite glad that I had thus turned from my direct course. It was dark, the night indeed had closed in before we reached the tents; but I had the satisfaction to learn that both Mr. Poole and Mr. Browne were better, though not altogether well, and that every thing had gone on regularly during my absence. On the following morning, I sent Lewis and Jones with a dray to fetch the cart, and for the next three or four days was occupied charting the ground we had travelled over.
The greatest distance I went northwards on this occasion was to the 28th parallel, and about 27 {17 in published text} miles to the eastward of the 141st meridian38. Our extreme point to the westward being lat. 28 degrees 56 minutes, and long. 140 degrees 54 minutes. From what I have said, the reader will be enabled to judge what prospects39 of success I had in either quarter; for myself I felt that I had nothing to hope either in the north or the east; for even if I had contemplated40 crossing eastward to the Darling, which was more than 250 miles from me, the dreadful nature of the country would have deterred41 me; but such an idea never entered my head — I could not, under existing circumstances, have justified42 such a measure to myself; having therefore failed in discovering any change of country, or the means of penetrating43 farther into it, I sat quietly down at my post, determined to abide44 the result, and to trust to the goodness of Providence45 to release me from prison when He thought best.
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1 distressed | |
痛苦的 | |
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2 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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3 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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4 northward | |
adv.向北;n.北方的地区 | |
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5 precisely | |
adv.恰好,正好,精确地,细致地 | |
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6 receding | |
v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 );向后倾斜;自原处后退或避开别人的注视;尤指问题 | |
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7 gutters | |
(路边)排水沟( gutter的名词复数 ); 阴沟; (屋顶的)天沟; 贫贱的境地 | |
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8 lateral | |
adj.侧面的,旁边的 | |
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9 copious | |
adj.丰富的,大量的 | |
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10 eddying | |
涡流,涡流的形成 | |
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11 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
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12 simultaneously | |
adv.同时发生地,同时进行地 | |
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13 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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14 ornamental | |
adj.装饰的;作装饰用的;n.装饰品;观赏植物 | |
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15 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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16 sterility | |
n.不生育,不结果,贫瘠,消毒,无菌 | |
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17 circumference | |
n.圆周,周长,圆周线 | |
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18 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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19 exhausted | |
adj.极其疲惫的,精疲力尽的 | |
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20 outlet | |
n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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21 extremity | |
n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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22 beheld | |
v.看,注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 );瞧;看呀;(叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现)哎哟 | |
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23 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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24 westward | |
n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
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25 zigzag | |
n.曲折,之字形;adj.曲折的,锯齿形的;adv.曲折地,成锯齿形地;vt.使曲折;vi.曲折前行 | |
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26 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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27 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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28 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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29 languor | |
n.无精力,倦怠 | |
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30 fixed | |
adj.固定的,不变的,准备好的;(计算机)固定的 | |
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31 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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32 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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33 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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34 sweeping | |
adj.范围广大的,一扫无遗的 | |
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35 windings | |
(道路、河流等)蜿蜒的,弯曲的( winding的名词复数 ); 缠绕( wind的现在分词 ); 卷绕; 转动(把手) | |
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36 quartz | |
n.石英 | |
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37 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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38 meridian | |
adj.子午线的;全盛期的 | |
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39 prospects | |
n.希望,前途(恒为复数) | |
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40 contemplated | |
adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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41 deterred | |
v.阻止,制止( deter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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42 justified | |
a.正当的,有理的 | |
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43 penetrating | |
adj.(声音)响亮的,尖锐的adj.(气味)刺激的adj.(思想)敏锐的,有洞察力的 | |
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44 abide | |
vi.遵守;坚持;vt.忍受 | |
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45 providence | |
n.深谋远虑,天道,天意;远见;节约;上帝 | |
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