The three last days of February were cool in comparison to the few preceding ones. The wind was from the south, and blew so heavily that I anticipated rough weather at the commencement of March. But that rough month set in with renewed heat, consequent on the wind returning to its old quarter the E.S.E. There were however some heavy clouds floating about, and from the closeness of the atmosphere I hoped that rain would have fallen, but all these favourable9 signs vanished, the thermometer ascending10 to more than 100 degrees.
When we first pitched our tents at the Depot the neighbourhood of it teemed11 with animal life. The parrots and paroquets flew up and down the creeks12 collecting their scattered14 thousands, and making the air resound15 with their cries. Pigeons congregated16 together; bitterns, cockatoos, and other birds; all collected round as preparatory to migrating. In attendance on these were a variety of the Accipitrine class, hawks17 of different kinds, making sad havoc18 amongst the smaller birds. About the period of my return from the north they all took their departure, and we were soon wholly deserted19. We no longer heard the discordant20 shriek21 of the parrots, or the hoarse22 croaking23 note of the bittern. They all passed away simultaneously24 in a single day; the line of migration being directly to the N.W., from which quarter we had small flights of ducks and pelicans25.
On the 5th of March I sent Mr. Browne to the S.W., to a small creek13 similar to that in the Rocky Glen and in the same range, in the hope that as we had seen fires in that direction he might fall in with the natives, but he was unsuccessful.
On the 6th I sent Flood to the eastward to see if he could recover the channel of the main creek on the other side of the plain on which Mr. Poole had lost it; he returned the following day, with information that at 25 miles from the Depot he had recovered it, and found more water than he could have supposed. The day of Flood’s return was exceedingly hot and close, and in the evening we had distant thunder, but no rain.
In consequence of his report, I now determined26 on a journey to the eastward to ascertain27 the character of the country between us and the Darling, and left the camp with this intention on the 12th instant. I should have started earlier than that day had not Mr. Poole’s illness prevented me, but as he rallied, I proceeded on my excursion, accompanied by Mr. Browne, Flood, and another of the men. We observed several puddles28 near our old camp on the main creek as we rode away, so that rain must have fallen there though not at the Depot. After passing the little conical hill of which I have already spoken, we traced the creek down until we saw plains of great extent before us, and as the creek trended to the south, skirting them on that side, we rode across them on a bearing of 322 degrees or N.W.1/2 N. They were 7 or 8 miles in breadth, and full 12 miles in length from east to west; their soil was rich and grassed in many places. At the extremity29 of the plains was a sand hill, close to which we again came on the creek, but without water, that which Flood had found being a little more to the eastward. Its channel at this place was deep, shaded, and moist, but very narrow. I was quite surprised when we came to the creek where Flood had been to find so much water; there was a serpentine30 sheet, of more than a quarter of a mile in length, which at first sight appeared to be as permanent as that at the Depot. The banks were high and composed of light rich alluvial31 soil, on which there were many new shrubs32 growing; the whole vegetation seemed to be more forward on this side of the hills than on that where the Depot was. Just as we halted we saw a small column of smoke rise up due south, and on looking in that direction observed some grassy33 plains spreading out like a boundless34 stubble, the grass being of the kind from which the natives collect seed for subsistence at this season of the year.
Early on the morning of the 14th March we again saw smoke in the same direction as before, but somewhat to the eastward, as if the grass or brush had been fired. In hopes that we should come upon some of the natives on the plains, through which the creek appeared to run, I determined on examining them before I proceeded to the eastward. We accordingly crossed its channel when we mounted our horses after breakfast, and rode at some little distance from it on a course of 80 degrees or nearly east, over flooded lands of somewhat sandy soil, covered with different kinds of grass, of which large heaps that had been thrashed out by the natives were piled up like hay cocks. At about two and a half miles we ascended36 a sandy rise of about fifty feet in elevation37, whence we obtained bearings of the little conical hill at the western termination of the plain, and of the hill we had called the Black Hill. These bearings with our latitude38 made the distance we had travelled 33 miles. From the sand hill we overlooked plains of great extent to the N.E.; partly grassed and partly bare, but to the eastward there was low brush and a country similar to that we had traversed before the commencement of the sandy ridges39. There were low sandy undulations to be seen; but of no great height. I now turned for the smoke on a bearing of 187 degrees, or nearly south, traversing a barren sandy level intermediate between the sand hill and the plains now upon our right, at length we entered upon the flooded ground, it was soft and yielding, and marked all over with the tracks of the natives; at 7 miles arrived at a large clump40 of gum-trees, and under them the channel of the creek which we had lost on the upper part of the plains was again visible. It was here very broad, but quite bare, except a belt of polygonum growing on either side, which had been set on fire, and was now in flames. We were fortunate enough soon after to find a long shallow sheet of water, in the bed of the creek, where we rested ourselves. It was singular enough that we should have pulled up close to the camp of some natives, all of whom had hidden themselves in the polygonum, except an old woman who was fast asleep, but who did not faint on seeing Mr. Browne close to her when she awoke. With this old lady we endeavoured to enter into conversation, and in order to allay41 her fears gave her five or six cockatoos we had shot, on which two other fair ones crept from behind the polygonum and advanced towards us. Finding that the men were out hunting, and only the women with the children were present, I determined to stop at this place until the following morning, we therefore unloaded the horses and allowed them to go and feed. A little before sunset, the two men returned to their families. They were much astonished at seeing us quietly seated before their huts, and approached us with some caution, but soon got reconciled to our presence. One of them had caught a talpero and a lizard42, but the other had not killed any thing, so we gave him a dinner of mutton. The language of these people was a mixture between that of the river and hill tribes; but from what reason I am unable to say, although we understood their answers to general questions, we could not gather any lengthened43 information from them. I gave the elder native a blanket, and to the other a knife, with both of which they seemed highly delighted, and in return I suppose paid us the compliment of sending their wives to us as soon as it became dusk, but as we did not encourage their advances they left us after a short visit. The native who had killed the talpero, skinned it the moment he arrived in the camp, and, having first moistened them, stuffed the skin with the leaves of a plant of very astringent44 properties. All these natives were very poor, particularly the men, nor do I think that at this season of the year they can have much animal food of any kind to subsist35 on. Their principal food appeared to be seeds of various kinds, as of the box-tree, and grass seeds, which they pound into cakes and bake, together with different kinds of roots.
On the 15th we started at 7 a.m., and crossing at the head of the water, pursued a south course over extensive flooded plains, on which we again lost the channel of the creek, as, after winding45 round a little contiguous sand hill, it split into numberless branches; but although the plains hereabouts were well grassed, the soil was not so good as that on the plains above them. At six miles we ascended a sand hill, from which we could see to the extremity of the plain; but it had no apparent outlet46 excepting to the E.S.E. I therefore proceeded on that course for three miles, when we lost sight of all gum-trees, and found ourselves amongst scrub. Low bushes bounded the horizon all round, and hid the grassy plains from our view; but they were denser47 to the south and east than at any other point. Mount Lyell, the large hill south, bore 140 degrees to the east of north, distant between forty and fifty miles. A short time after we left the grassy flats we crossed the dry bed of a large lagoon, which had been seen by Mr. Poole on a bearing of 77 degrees from the Magnetic Hill. In the richer soil, a plant with round, striped fruit upon it, of very bitter taste, a species of cucumber, was growing. We next proceeded to the eastward, and surveying the country from higher ground, observed that the creek had no outlet from the plains, and that it could not but terminate on them.
As I had no object in a prolonged journey to the south, I turned back from this station, and retracing48 my steps to the water where we had left the natives, reached it at half-past six. All our friends were still there; we had, therefore, the pleasure of passing another afternoon with them, during which they were joined by two other natives, with their families, who had been driven in from the south, like ourselves, by the want of water. They assured us that all the water in that quarter had disappeared, “that the sun had taken it,” and that we should not find a drop to the eastward, where I told them I was going. All these men, excepting one, had been circumcised. The single exception had the left fore-tooth of his upper jaw49 extracted, and I therefore concluded that he belonged to a different tribe. I had hoped to have seen many more natives in this locality; but it struck me, from what I observed, that they were dispersed50 at the different water-holes, there being no one locality capable of supporting any number.
The low and flooded track I have been describing must be dreadfully cold during the winter season, and the natives, who are wholly unprovided for inclemency51 of any kind, must suffer greatly from exposure; but at this time the temperature still continued very high, and the constant appearance of the deep purple tint52 opposite to the rising and setting sun seemed to indicate a continuance of it.
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1 migration | |
n.迁移,移居,(鸟类等的)迁徙 | |
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2 eastward | |
adv.向东;adj.向东的;n.东方,东部 | |
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3 sterile | |
adj.不毛的,不孕的,无菌的,枯燥的,贫瘠的 | |
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4 lagoon | |
n.泻湖,咸水湖 | |
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5 scurvy | |
adj.下流的,卑鄙的,无礼的;n.坏血病 | |
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6 erect | |
n./v.树立,建立,使竖立;adj.直立的,垂直的 | |
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7 depot | |
n.仓库,储藏处;公共汽车站;火车站 | |
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8 westward | |
n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
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9 favourable | |
adj.赞成的,称赞的,有利的,良好的,顺利的 | |
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10 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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11 teemed | |
v.充满( teem的过去式和过去分词 );到处都是;(指水、雨等)暴降;倾注 | |
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12 creeks | |
n.小湾( creek的名词复数 );小港;小河;小溪 | |
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13 creek | |
n.小溪,小河,小湾 | |
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14 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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15 resound | |
v.回响 | |
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16 congregated | |
(使)集合,聚集( congregate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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17 hawks | |
鹰( hawk的名词复数 ); 鹰派人物,主战派人物 | |
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18 havoc | |
n.大破坏,浩劫,大混乱,大杂乱 | |
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19 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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20 discordant | |
adj.不调和的 | |
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21 shriek | |
v./n.尖叫,叫喊 | |
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22 hoarse | |
adj.嘶哑的,沙哑的 | |
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23 croaking | |
v.呱呱地叫( croak的现在分词 );用粗的声音说 | |
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24 simultaneously | |
adv.同时发生地,同时进行地 | |
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25 pelicans | |
n.鹈鹕( pelican的名词复数 ) | |
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26 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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27 ascertain | |
vt.发现,确定,查明,弄清 | |
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28 puddles | |
n.水坑, (尤指道路上的)雨水坑( puddle的名词复数 ) | |
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29 extremity | |
n.末端,尽头;尽力;终极;极度 | |
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30 serpentine | |
adj.蜿蜒的,弯曲的 | |
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31 alluvial | |
adj.冲积的;淤积的 | |
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32 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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33 grassy | |
adj.盖满草的;长满草的 | |
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34 boundless | |
adj.无限的;无边无际的;巨大的 | |
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35 subsist | |
vi.生存,存在,供养 | |
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36 ascended | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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37 elevation | |
n.高度;海拔;高地;上升;提高 | |
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38 latitude | |
n.纬度,行动或言论的自由(范围),(pl.)地区 | |
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39 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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40 clump | |
n.树丛,草丛;vi.用沉重的脚步行走 | |
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41 allay | |
v.消除,减轻(恐惧、怀疑等) | |
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42 lizard | |
n.蜥蜴,壁虎 | |
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43 lengthened | |
(时间或空间)延长,伸长( lengthen的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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44 astringent | |
adj.止血的,收缩的,涩的;n.收缩剂,止血剂 | |
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45 winding | |
n.绕,缠,绕组,线圈 | |
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46 outlet | |
n.出口/路;销路;批发商店;通风口;发泄 | |
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47 denser | |
adj. 不易看透的, 密集的, 浓厚的, 愚钝的 | |
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48 retracing | |
v.折回( retrace的现在分词 );回忆;回顾;追溯 | |
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49 jaw | |
n.颚,颌,说教,流言蜚语;v.喋喋不休,教训 | |
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50 dispersed | |
adj. 被驱散的, 被分散的, 散布的 | |
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51 inclemency | |
n.险恶,严酷 | |
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52 tint | |
n.淡色,浅色;染发剂;vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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