Acting2 on reliable advice, we decided3 upon a track running parallel with the Norman River. It was a desolate4 route, monotonous5 in the extreme, the only vegetation being Quinine bushes (a tall slender tree, with a rough dark bark and glossy6 leaves), Messmates (a medium-sized tree, with broad silvery grey leaves), the Polyalthia, the Leichardt, the Moreton Bay ash, and the Bloodwood, the latter being one of the commonest scrub trees in Northern Queensland.
Not desiring to tire our horses at the outset, but rather to let them gradually accustom7 themselves to the stages we should be compelled to ask of them, our first day’s distance was a short one, of only twelve miles. After passing through a typical roadside township, built on a small clearing, and consisting of a couple of grog shanties8, a butcher’s and blacksmith’s shop, we cried a halt, turned loose, and fixed9 up camp, hobbling and belling our horses carefully. With considerable pride we reflected that twelve miles of our long journey was accomplished10, and we prepared to mark the distance on the chart. Gather our surprise when we discovered that the dot indicating our position hardly showed from the blotch11 which distinguished12 Normanton, while, on the other hand, ahead of us stretched nearly a yard of map. For the first time since our decision, a real impression of the distance we had undertaken to travel came before us. Our camp was comfortable and, had it not been for the mosquitoes, would have been enjoyable. As it was, within an hour of sundown it was forcibly borne in upon us that we ought to have added cheesecloth nets to our equipments, for these pests nearly eat us alive. They were particularly hard on Mr. Pickwick, alighting on his map of Asia, and inducing him to keep up a continuous moaning all night long.
Next morning, to our dismay, we discovered that our horses were nowhere to be found. We searched all round the camp, listening intently for their bells, but without success. The Long’un, who had chosen the work of looking after the horses in preference to the cooking and tending camp, set off in search of them. When, some hours later, he returned, he brought the faithless beasts with him, and explained in figurative language that he had been obliged to walk no less than eight miles to recover them. He had found them making their way back to Normanton; they had no desire to cross continents: there was no ambition about those horses.
Saddling up, we proceeded on our way, the Long’un and I riding side by side, the two pack horses, Cyclops and Polyphemus, running loose ahead. In the cool of the morning it was pleasant travelling. The country improved as we progressed, the view being picturesquely14 made up of light scrub lands alternating with small untimbered plains, where mobs of kangaroo might occasionally be seen. Sometimes we chanced upon solitary16 travellers, equipped like ourselves, making for some of the large stations in the district, and now and again upon carrier’s teams. conveying stores to the same localities. But for the greater part of the distance we saw no one.
The bird life attracted our attention; such a variety of plumage we had seen nowhere before: painted or Gulf17 finches, little bigger than wrens18, with breasts coloured into bands of every known hue19; tiny zebras (not the animal), little brown fellows with red beaks20 and spotted21 breasts; galas, a species of grey cockatoo with beautiful pink breasts; emus, kites, plain turkeys (a kind of bustard), a few grey ibis on the water-holes, and the inevitable22 black crow.
Two nights later we camped at Vena Park Cattle Station, the property of a noted23 Queensland pioneer. The house, a typical frontier building constructed of slabs24, stands on a sand ridge25 above a large and inviting26 lagoon27. The hospitality was rough, but the welcome given us was most cordial and sincere. The property, an exceedingly large one, we found to be worked with black boys, under a white manager, and head stockman. These boys are great institutions. When young they make excellent station hands, being wonderful riders and splendid fellows with stock; but when they reach the age of fifteen or sixteen years it is, as a rule, hopeless to attempt anything further with them, for they become lazy and objectionable past all endurance.
Leaving Vena Park, we pushed on along the river towards Ifley Station, some thirty miles to the southward, the country opening out as we advanced to long rolling plains, sparsely28 wooded when timbered at all. Here and there we encountered dense29 masses of pea bush, in some cases as many as seven feet high, growing thick as corn, but, though it was in appearance very inviting, our horses would not touch it, preferring the coarse bush grass, however scanty30.
Reaching Ifley Station, we bade ‘goodbye’ to the Norman River, and struck down its offshoot, Spear Creek. Near this station is a big lagoon full of crocodiles, which, however, are said to be harmless. Lying in the muddy water with only their snouts protruding31, they didn’t look inviting, so we took the assertion for granted, without testing it. As I have said before, we are very trusting in such matters. We asked Mr. Pickwick — of whom, by the way, we were growing exceedingly tired — if he would care to experiment, but he declined. He was a dog without any soul for scientific research, and for this and several other reasons, we decided to give him away on the first opportunity.
Near Ifley Station a curious accident is recorded as happening a few years back. A bullock waggon32, with dynamite33 on board, was crawling its weary way along the track, the driver, as was his usual custom, resting on his load. Something happened — nobody will ever know what: but it is sufficient that there was an explosion, and neither driver, bullocks, waggon, nor dynamite, have ever been seen or heard of since. It must have surprised that bullocky, if anything could surprise him!
Talking of bullock drivers, the driver himself is called the bullocky, while his mate or assistant is denominated the bullocky’s offsider. Both are usually the roughest of the rough, and both are professional masters of the art of abuse. I had the honour of the acquaintance of one bullocky who could swear — so it was said, and he himself was too modest to deny it — for twenty-three minutes and eighteen seconds by the watch, without a break and without repeating himself. Again, I once heard of a phonograph record of a bullocky straightening up his team; it lasted five minutes, and was found, on examination, to have blistered34 the copper35 cylinders36. The experimenter said it was a good record, and I have reason to believe his audience agreed with him.
Leaving Ifley, the country becomes more open; rolling plain succeeds rolling plain, with hardly perceptible difference or anything to break the awful monotony of the view.
Spear Creek, like most of the Australian rivers and creeks37, is merely a succession of waterholes in the summer season, and even these latter are often many weary miles apart. When we had run it some fifty miles, we crossed to the Saxby River at Taldora, and headed direct for Mount Fort Bowen, a point to the south-west. This mountain, if mountain it can be called, rises almost abruptly38 from a perfectly39 level plain, and owes its name to a fort built there in bygone days, to afford protection against the blacks. It is undoubtedly40 of volcanic41 origin, and presents an exceedingly picturesque15 appearance, being in pleasing contrast to the endless level of the surrounding country.
Next day we struck the famous Flinders River, of which we had heard so much. This river rises in the Great Dividing Range, and penetrates42 a vast extent of country before it flows into the Gulf of Carpentaria, a little to the west of Normanton.
Like most of the other rivers, it proved but a succession of waterholes separated by long patches of sand. But here a peculiarity43 of a great many Australian rivers manifested itself. Though to all appearance the river bed was perfectly dry, yet on digging, perhaps less than two feet beneath the surface, we found a running stream of crystal water, a little brackish44, but still quite drinkable. This everlasting45 supply is a great boon46 to squatters, who, in times of drought, have only it to depend upon. And the mention of this river brings to my mind a touching47 little incident encountered during our ride along its banks.
At a spot overlooking a lovely stretch of water, and half hidden in undergrowth and high grass, we chanced upon what was unmistakably a grave — a little mound48 beneath a spreading Coolibar tree. Whose resting place it was we could not discover, but on searching about we found, roughly cut on the tree, this single word, ‘Unknown.’ Oh! the pathos49 of that word. Who shall over-estimate it? There, on that river bank in that desolate spot, where night winds sob50 and outlawed51 dingoes come to drink, is hidden away the finale of a life’s history. What reflections it conjures52 up! Perhaps even to this day, in some peaceful English village, a grey-haired mother sits longing53 for news of her boy — always waiting, waiting, for the letter that will never come. He, poor fellow, was probably found dead, and now lies taking his last rest far from kith and kin13, in that lonely wilderness54 beneath the Southern Cross; his name unguessed at, and his only epitaph the single word ‘Unknown’! There are thousands of such graves on the face of this great continent, and every one of them has its own unhappy secret, not to be revealed until the last great Judgment55 Day.
Bidding ‘goodbye’ to the Flinders, we headed over more rolling plains to the Cloncurry River, which, in its turn, we followed down to the small mining township of the same name. And such a township we found it — such a burnt out place of desolation! Just a few rough buildings clustered together in the centre of an eye-aching plain, with less than nothing to commend it. Night was falling as we clattered56 through the dust of Ramsey Street and pulled up at our hotel. Here we intended to spell awhile. Having completed a ride of about two hundred and sixty miles since leaving Normanton, we felt entitled to a brief rest before pushing east as far as Hughenden.
Our hotel was a long, low, rambling57 wooden structure, built on short piles, and boasting a galvanised iron roof, a long narrow passage, off which the bedrooms lay, two dining rooms, one for the gentlefolk (save the mark), the other for the masses, and an anthropological58 collection marvellous to behold59. A dance was the order of the evening, and excitement ran high. We chose our rooms and went to change our apparel. An enjoyment60 we had been promising61 ourselves all through that hot disagreeable day was a cold bath; judge our disappointment then, when we were informed that, owing to the scarcity62 of water in the township, baths had long since been put an end to. We argued, but in vain. Not a drop of bathing water could we obtain for love or money. We began to think that there must be something in those stories of the drought after all.
The dance was an enormous success. All the elite63 and otherwise of the township were there: Silver and Coppertails, as they are variously denominated. The large dining room was turned into a ball room, an accordion64 supplied the music, and at least twenty couples took the floor. As everyone knew and danced with everybody, introductions were not needed. The usual method of soliciting65 the honour of a dance was to approach the fair one and say ‘Going to ‘ave a go-in?’ To which she would probably reply ‘My colonial!’ and there you were!
With great enthusiasm the ball was kept rolling till nearly daylight, long after the accordion player was inebriated66 and the music had dropped to simple whistling. Between the dances drinks were called for, and not unfrequently two gentlemen, having claimed the same lady, would retire privately67 to decide the matter outside, leaving the fair one to obtain another or await the return of the victor, as she pleased. It was a proud moment for her, and she invariably took advantage of it.
The population of Cloncurry all told is 811, and of the district about 1,200. The place owes its origin partly to the large station properties in the neighbourhood, but more perhaps to its mineral wealth, which is undoubtedly great. Last year 1,655 oz. of gold were procured68, 1,276 oz. being alluvial69, and the remaining 379 oz. extracted from 228 tons of quartz70. Copper, however, is the principal metal obtained. Some few years ago one solid mass of virgin71 ore weighing nearly half a ton was discovered in one of the mines. It is principally, however, met with in combination with sulphur as copper pyrites, though sometimes it occurs as oxide72 and carbonate without sulphides. These deposits rival, if not surpass in extent and richness, the celebrated73 Lake Superior mines in America. While the whole district is very prolific74, the principal mines lie in a western and north-western direction. And it is very much to be regretted that, partly owing to the severe drought, partly to the condition of the copper market, and partly to the expense of transit75, the industry is at present at a complete standstill. It is, however, confidently expected that as soon as the railroad from Cloncurry to Normanton shall be completed, it will receive a fresh impetus76.
After a stay of three days, during which time we saw everything that was to be seen, and heard everything that was to be heard, we remounted our trusty steeds, failed in our attempt to leave Mr. Pickwick behind us, and started along the well defined track towards Hughenden, about three hundred miles distant across the plains.
The stations hereabouts are wonderful concerns, covering areas of many hundreds of square miles, and capable of carrying from 100,000 to 350,000 sheep, in a good season. At the time of our visit, however, owing to the drought, they were having a bad time of it, and the squatters informed us they would have all their work cut out to make both ends meet. Passing Neelia Ponds Station we left the coach track, and struck off on a line of our own across the great downs, vast timberless plains, stretching away as far as the eye can reach. The day following we reached Maxwelton, and so on to Richmond Downs. This latter place is called after a station near at hand, and is a tiny township of only one street. Nevertheless it boasts a police station and a court house, with two or three of the usual style grog shanties, all to its own cheek.
Another short stage brought us to Marathon, with its charming head station, courteous77 manager, and wonderful artesian bore. Marathon carries 150,000 sheep, and shears78 by machinery79 (as, indeed, do most of these northern stations). Next day we fetched Telamon, and the night following were in Hughenden, having completed a ride of five hundred and sixty miles from Normanton, and roughly speaking, about nine hundred from Charters Towers.
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1
creek
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| n.小溪，小河，小湾 | |
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acting
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| n.演戏，行为，假装；adj.代理的，临时的，演出用的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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glossy
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| adj.平滑的；有光泽的 | |
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accustom
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| vt.使适应，使习惯 | |
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shanties
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| n.简陋的小木屋( shanty的名词复数 )；铁皮棚屋；船工号子；船歌 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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blotch
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| n.大斑点；红斑点；v.使沾上污渍，弄脏 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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kin
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| n.家族，亲属，血缘关系；adj.亲属关系的，同类的 | |
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picturesquely
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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wrens
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| n.鹪鹩( wren的名词复数 ) | |
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hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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beaks
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| n.鸟嘴( beak的名词复数 )；鹰钩嘴；尖鼻子；掌权者 | |
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spotted
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| adj.有斑点的，斑纹的，弄污了的 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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slabs
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| n.厚板，平板，厚片( slab的名词复数 )；厚胶片 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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inviting
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| adj.诱人的，引人注目的 | |
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lagoon
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| n.泻湖，咸水湖 | |
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sparsely
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| adv.稀疏地；稀少地；不足地；贫乏地 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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protruding
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| v.（使某物）伸出，（使某物）突出( protrude的现在分词 )；凸 | |
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waggon
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| n.运货马车，运货车；敞篷车箱 | |
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dynamite
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| n./vt.(用)炸药(爆破) | |
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blistered
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| adj.水疮状的，泡状的v.（使）起水泡( blister的过去式和过去分词 )；（使表皮等）涨破，爆裂 | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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cylinders
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| n.圆筒( cylinder的名词复数 )；圆柱；汽缸；（尤指用作容器的）圆筒状物 | |
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creeks
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| n.小湾( creek的名词复数 )；小港；小河；小溪 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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volcanic
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| adj.火山的；象火山的；由火山引起的 | |
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penetrates
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| v.穿过( penetrate的第三人称单数 )；刺入；了解；渗透 | |
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peculiarity
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| n.独特性，特色；特殊的东西；怪癖 | |
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brackish
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| adj.混有盐的；咸的 | |
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everlasting
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| adj.永恒的，持久的，无止境的 | |
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boon
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| n.恩赐，恩物，恩惠 | |
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touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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mound
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| n.土墩，堤，小山；v.筑堤，用土堆防卫 | |
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pathos
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| n.哀婉，悲怆 | |
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sob
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| n.空间轨道的轰炸机；呜咽，哭泣 | |
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outlawed
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| 宣布…为不合法（outlaw的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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conjures
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| 用魔术变出( conjure的第三人称单数 )； 祈求，恳求； 变戏法； （变魔术般地） 使…出现 | |
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longing
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| n.（for）渴望 | |
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wilderness
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| n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等，荒漠 | |
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judgment
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| n.审判；判断力，识别力，看法，意见 | |
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clattered
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| 发出咔哒声（clatter的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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rambling
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| adj.[建]凌乱的，杂乱的 | |
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anthropological
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| adj.人类学的 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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scarcity
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| n.缺乏，不足，萧条 | |
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elite
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| n.精英阶层；实力集团；adj.杰出的，卓越的 | |
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accordion
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| n.手风琴；adj.可折叠的 | |
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soliciting
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| v.恳求( solicit的现在分词 )；（指娼妇）拉客；索求；征求 | |
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inebriated
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| adj.酒醉的 | |
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privately
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| adv.以私人的身份，悄悄地，私下地 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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alluvial
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| adj.冲积的；淤积的 | |
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quartz
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| n.石英 | |
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virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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oxide
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| n.氧化物 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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prolific
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| adj.丰富的，大量的；多产的，富有创造力的 | |
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transit
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| n.经过，运输；vt.穿越，旋转；vi.越过 | |
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impetus
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| n.推动，促进，刺激；推动力 | |
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77
courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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78
shears
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| n.大剪刀 | |
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79
machinery
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| n.(总称)机械，机器；机构 | |
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