Immense was the confusion at the eventful hour of our departure. Suppose us gathered upon the beach, on the morning of a fiery2 July day, carefully watching our hurriedly-packed goods and chattels3, surrounded by a mob of idlers, who are not too proud to pick up waifs and strays; whilst pilgrims are rushing about apparently5 mad; and friends are weeping, acquaintances are vociferating adieux; boatmen are demanding fees, shopmen are claiming debts; women are shrieking7 and talking with inconceivable power, and children are crying, — in short, for an hour or so we stand in the thick of a human storm. To confound confusion, the boatmen have moored9 their skiff half a dozen yards away from the shore, lest the porters should be unable to make more than double their fare from the Hajis. Again the Turkish women make a hideous10 noise, as they are carried off struggling vainly in brawny11 arms; the children howl because their mothers howl; and the men scold and swear, because in such scenes none may be silent. The moment we had embarked12, each individual found that he or she had missed something of vital importance, — a pipe, a child, a box, or a water-melon; and naturally all the servants were in the bazars, when they should have been in the boat. Briefly13, despite the rage of the sailors, who feared being too late for a second trip, we stood for some time on the beach before putting off.
From the shore we poled to the little pier, where sat the Bey in person to perform a final examination of our passports. Several were detected without the necessary document. Some were bastinadoed, others were peremptorily14 ordered back to Cairo, and the rest were allowed to proceed. At about 10 A.M. (6th July) we hoisted15 sail, and ran down the channel leading to the roadstead. On our way we had a specimen16 of what we might expect from our fellow-passengers, the Maghrabi.1 A boat crowded with these ruffians ran alongside of us, and, before we could organise17 a defence, about a score of them poured into our vessel18. They carried things too with a high hand, laughed at us, and seemed quite ready to fight. My Indian boy, who happened to let slip the word “Muarras,” narrowly escaped a blow with a palm stick, which would have felled a camel. They outnumbered us, and they were armed; so that, on this occasion, we were obliged to put up with their insolence19.
Our Pilgrim Ship, the Silk al-Zahab, or the “Golden Wire,” was a Sambuk, of about 400 ardebs (fifty tons), with narrow, wedge-like bows, a clean water-line, a sharp keel, and undecked, except upon the poop, which was high enough to act as a sail in a gale20 of wind. She carried two masts, raking imminently21 forwards, the main being considerably22 larger than the mizzen; the former was provided with a huge triangular23 latine, very deep in the tack24, but the second sail was unaccountably wanting. She had no means of reefing, no compass, no log, no sounding lines, no spare ropes, nor even the suspicion of a chart: in her box-like cabin and ribbed hold there was something which savoured of close connection between her model and that of the Indian Toni,2 or “dug-out.”
Such, probably, were the craft which carried old Sesostris across the Red Sea to Deir; such were the cruisers which once every three years left Ezion-Geber for Tarshish; such the transports of which 130 were required to convey AElius Gallus, with his 10,000 men. “Bakhshish” was the last as well as the first odious25 sound I heard in Egypt. The owner of the shore-boat would not allow us to climb the sides of our vessel before paying him his fare, and when we did so, he asked for Bakhshish. If Easterns would only imitate the example of Europeans, — I never yet saw an Englishman give Bakhshish to a soul, — the nuisance would soon be done away with. But on this occasion all my companions complied with the request, and at times it is unpleasant to be singular. The first look at the interior of our vessel showed a hopeless sight; Ali Murad, the greedy owner, had promised to take sixty passengers in the hold, but had stretched the number to ninety-seven. Piles of boxes and luggage in every shape and form filled the ship from stem to stern, and a torrent26 of Hajis were pouring over the sides like ants into the East-Indian sugar-basin. The poop, too, where we had taken our places, was covered with goods, and a number of pilgrims had established themselves there by might, not by right.
Presently, to our satisfaction, appeared Sa’ad the Demon28, equipped as an able seaman29, and looking most unlike the proprietor30 of two large boxes full of valuable merchandise. This energetic individual instantly prepared for action. With our little party to back him, he speedily cleared the poop of intruders and their stuff by the simple process of pushing or rather throwing them off it into the pit below. We then settled down as comfortably as we could; three Syrians, a married Turk with his wife and family, the Rais or captain of the vessel, with a portion of his crew, and our seven selves, composing a total of eighteen human beings, upon a space certainly not exceeding ten feet by eight. The cabin — a miserable31 box about the size of the poop, and three feet high — was stuffed, like the hold of a slave ship, with fifteen wretches32, children and women, and the other ninety-seven were disposed upon the luggage or squatted33 on the bulwarks34. Having some experience in such matters, and being favoured by fortune, I found a spare bed-frame slung35 to the ship’s side; and giving a dollar to its owner, a sailor — who flattered himself that, because it was his, he would sleep upon it, — I instantly appropriated it, preferring any hardship outside, to the condition of a packed herring inside, the place of torment36.
Our Maghrabis were fine-looking animals from the deserts about Tripoli and Tunis; so savage37 that, but a few weeks ago, they had gazed at the cock-boat, and wondered how long it would be growing to the size of the ship that was to take them to Alexandria. Most of them were sturdy young fellows, round-headed, broad-shouldered, tall and large-limbed, with frowning eyes, and voices in a perpetual roar. Their manners were rude, and their faces full of fierce contempt or insolent38 familiarity. A few old men were there, with countenances39 expressive40 of intense ferocity; women as savage and full of fight as men; and handsome boys with shrill41 voices, and. hands always upon their daggers42. The women were mere44 bundles of dirty white rags. The males were clad in “Burnus” — brown or striped woollen cloaks with hoods45; they had neither turband nor tarbush, trusting to their thick curly hair or to the prodigious46 hardness of their scalps as a defence against the sun; and there was not a slipper47 nor a shoe amongst the party. Of course all were armed; but, fortunately for us, none had anything more formidable than a cut-and-thrust dagger43 about ten inches long. These Maghrabis travel in hordes48 under a leader who obtains the temporary title of “Maula,” — the master. He has generally performed a pilgrimage or two, and has collected a stock of superficial information which secures for him the respect of his followers49, and the profound contempt of the heaven-made Ciceroni of Meccah and Al-Madinah. No people endure greater hardships when upon the pilgrimage than these Africans, who trust almost entirely50 to alms and to other such dispensations of Providence51. It is not therefore to be wondered at that they rob whenever an opportunity presents itself. Several cases of theft occurred on board the “Golden Wire”; and as such plunderers seldom allow themselves to be baulked by insufficient52 defence, they are accused, perhaps deservedly, of having committed some revolting murders.
The first thing to be done after gaining standing-room was to fight for greater comfort; and never a Holyhead packet in the olden time showed a finer scene of pugnacity54 than did our pilgrim ship. A few Turks, ragged55 old men from Anatolia and Caramania, were mixed up with the Maghrabis, and the former began the war by contemptuously elbowing and scolding their wild neighbours. The Maghrabis, under their leader, “Maula Ali,” a burly savage, in whom I detected a ridiculous resemblance to the Rev53. Charles Delafosse, an old and well-remembered schoolmaster, retorted so willingly that in a few minutes nothing was to be seen but a confused mass of humanity, each item indiscriminately punching and pulling, scratching and biting, butting57 and trampling58, with cries of rage, and all the accompaniments of a proper fray59, whatever was obnoxious60 to such operations. One of our party on the poop, a Syrian, somewhat incautiously leapt down to aid his countrymen by restoring order. He sank immediately below the surface of the living mass: and when we fished him out, his forehead was cut open, half his beard had disappeared, and a fine sharp set of teeth belonging to some Maghrabi had left their mark in the calf61 of his leg. The enemy showed no love of fair play, and never appeared contented62 unless five or six of them were setting upon a single man. This made matters worse. The weaker of course drew their daggers, and a few bad wounds were soon given and received. In a few minutes five men were completely disabled, and the victors began to dread64 the consequences of their victory.
Then the fighting stopped, and, as many could not find places, it was agreed that a deputation should wait upon Ali Murad, the owner, to inform him of the crowded state of the vessel. After keeping us in expectation at least three hours, he appeared in a row-boat, preserving a respectful distance, and informed us that any one who pleased might quit the ship and take back his fare. This left the case exactly as it was before; none would abandon his party to go on shore: so Ali Murad rowed off towards Suez, giving us a parting injunction to be good, and not fight; to trust in Allah, and that Allah would make all things easy to us. His departure was the signal for a second fray, which in its accidents differed a little from the first. During the previous disturbance65 we kept our places with weapons in our hands. This time we were summoned by the Maghrabis to relieve their difficulties, by taking about half a dozen of them on the poop. Sa’ad the Demon at once rose with an oath, and threw amongst us a bundle of “Nabbut” — goodly ashen66 staves six feet long, thick as a man’s wrist, well greased, and tried in many a rough bout4. He shouted to us “Defend yourselves if you don’t wish to be the meat of the Maghrabis!” and to the enemy — “Dogs and sons of dogs! now shall you see what the children of the Arab are.” “I am Omar of Daghistan!” “I am Abdullah the son of Joseph!” “I am Sa’ad the Demon!” we exclaimed, “renowning it” by this display of name and patronymic. To do our enemies justice, they showed no sign of flinching67; they swarmed69 towards the poop like angry hornets, and encouraged each other with cries of “Allaho akbar!” But we had a vantage-ground about four feet above them, and their palm-sticks and short daggers could do nothing against our terrible quarterstaves. In vain the “Jacquerie,” tried to scale the poop and to overpower us by numbers; their courage only secured them more broken heads.
At first I began to lay on load with main morte, really fearing to kill some one with such a weapon; but it soon became evident that the Maghrabis’ heads and shoulders could bear and did require the utmost exertion70 of strength. Presently a thought struck me. A large earthen jar full of drinking water,3 — in its heavy frame of wood the weight might have been 100 lbs., — stood upon the edge of the poop, and the thick of the fray took place beneath. Seeing an opportunity, I crept up to the jar, and, without attracting attention, rolled it down by a smart push with the shoulder upon the swarm68 of assailants. The fall caused a shriller shriek8 to rise above the ordinary din6, for heads, limbs, and bodies were sorely bruised71 by the weight, scratched by the broken potsherds, and wetted by the sudden discharge. A fear that something worse might be coming made the Maghrabis slink off towards the end of the vessel. After a few minutes, we, sitting in grave silence, received a deputation of individuals in whity-brown Burnus, spotted72 and striped with what Mephistopheles calls a “curious juice.” They solicited73 peace, which we granted upon the condition that they would pledge themselves to keep it. Our heads, shoulders, and hands were penitentially kissed, and presently the fellows returned to bind74 up their hurts in dirty rags. We owed this victory entirely to our own exertions75, and the meek76 Omar was by far the fiercest of the party. Our Rais, as we afterwards learned, was an old fool who could do nothing but call for the Fatihah,4 claim Bakhshish at every place where we moored for the night, and spend his leisure hours in the “Caccia del Mediterraneo.” Our crew consisted of half a dozen Egyptian lads, who, not being able to defend themselves, were periodically chastised77 by the Maghrabis, especially when any attempt was made to cook, to fetch water, or to prepare a pipe.5
At length, about 3 P.M. on the 6th July, 1853, we shook out the sail, and, as it bellied78 in the favourable79 wind, we recited the Fatihah with upraised hands which we afterwards drew down our faces.6 As the “Golden Wire” started from her place, I could not help casting one wistful look upon the British flag floating over the Consulate80. But the momentary81 regret was stifled82 by the heart-bounding which prospects83 of an adventure excite, and by the real pleasure of leaving Egypt. I had lived there a stranger in the land, and a hapless life it had been: in the streets every man’s face, as he looked upon the Persian, was the face of a foe84. Whenever I came in contact with the native officials,7 insolence marked the event; and the circumstance of living within hail of my fellow-countrymen, and yet finding it impossible to enjoy their society, still throws a gloom over the memory of my first sojourn85 in Egypt.
The ships of the Red Sea — infamous86 region of rocks, reefs, and shoals — cruise along the coast by day, and at night lay-to in the first cove27 they find; they do not sail when it blows hard, and as in winter time the weather is often stormy and the light of day does not last long, the voyage is intolerably slow.8 At sunset we stayed our adventurous87 course; and, still within sight of Suez, comfortably anchored under the lee of Jabal Atakah, the “Mountain of Deliverance,9” the butt-end of Jabal Joshi. We were now on classic waters. The Eastern shore was dotted with the little grove88 of palm-trees which clusters around the Uyun Musa, or Moses’ Wells; and on the west, between two towering ridges90, lay the mouth of the valley (Badiyah, or Wady Tawarik, or Wady Musa) down which, according to Father Sicard,10 the Israelites fled to the Sea of Sedge.11 The view was by no means deficient91 in a sort of barbarous splendour. Verdure there was none, but under the violet and orange tints92 of the sky the chalky rocks became heaps of topazes, and the brown-burnt ridges masses of amethyst93. The rising mists, here silvery white, there deeply rosy94, and the bright blue of the waves,12 lining95 long strips of golden sand, compensated96 for the want of softness by a semblance56 of savage gorgeousness.
Next morning (7th July), before the cerulean hue97 had vanished from the hills, we set sail. It was not long before we came to a proper sense of our position. The box containing my store of provisions, and, worse still, my opium98, was at the bottom of the hold, perfectly99 unapproachable; we had, therefore, the pleasure of breaking our fast on “Mare’s skin,”13 and a species of biscuit, hard as a stone and quite as tasteless. During the day, whilst insufferable splendour reigned100 above, the dashing of the waters below kept my nest in a state of perpetual drench101. At night rose a cold, bright moon, with dews falling so thick and clammy that the skin felt as though it would never be dry again. It is, also, by no means pleasant to sleep upon a broken cot about four feet long by two broad, with the certainty that a false movement would throw you overboard, and a conviction that if you do fall from a Sambuk under sail, no mortal power can save you. And as under all circumstances in the East, dozing102 is one’s chief occupation, the reader will understand that the want of it left me in utter, utter idleness.
The gale was light that day, and the sunbeams were fire; our crew preferred crouching103 in the shade of the sail to taking advantage of what wind there was. In spite of our impatience104 we made but little way: near evening time we anchored on a tongue of sand, about two miles distant from the well-known and picturesque105 heights called by the Arabs Hammam Faraun,14 which —
“like giants stand
To sentinel enchanted106 land.”
The strip of coarse quartz107 and sandstone gravel108 is obviously the offspring of some mountain torrent; it stretches southwards, being probably disposed in that direction by the currents of the sea as they receive the deposit. The distance of the “Hammam Bluffs” prevented my visiting them, which circumstance I regretted the less as they have been described by pens equal to the task.
That evening we enjoyed ourselves upon clean sand, whose surface, drifted by the wind into small yellow waves, was easily converted by a little digging and heaping up, into the coolest and most comfortable of couches. Indeed, after the canescent heat of the day, and the tossing of our ill-conditioned vessel, we should have been contented with lodgings109 far less luxurious110. Fuel was readily collected, and while some bathed, others erected111 a hearth112 — three large stones and a hole open to leeward113 — lit the fire and put the pot on to boil. Shaykh Nur had fortunately a line; we had been successful in fishing; a little rice also had been bought; with this boiled, and rock-cod broiled114 upon the charcoal115, we made a dinner that caused every one to forget the sore grievance116 of “Mare’s skin” and stone-hard biscuit. A few Maghrabis had ventured on shore, the Rais having terrified the others by threatening them with those “bogies,” the Badawin — and they offered us Kuskusu15 in exchange for fish. As evening fell, we determined117, before sleeping, to work upon their “morale” as effectually as we had attacked their physique. Shaykh Hamid stood up and indulged them with the Azan, or call to prayers, pronounced after the fashion of Al-Madinah.16 They performed their devotions in lines ranged behind us as a token of respect, and when worship was over we were questioned about the Holy City till we grew tired of answering. Again our heads and shoulders, our hands and knees,17 were kissed, but this time in devotion, not in penitence118. My companions could scarcely understand half the rugged119 words which the Maghrabis used,18 as their dialect was fresh from the distant Desert. Still we succeeded in making ourselves intelligible120 to them, vaunting our dignity as the Sons of the Prophet, and the sanctity of our land which should protect its children from every description of fraud and violence. We benignantly promised to be their guides at Al-Madinah, and the boy Mohammed would conduct their devotions at Meccah, always provided that they repented121 their past misdeeds, avoided any repetition of the same, and promised to perform the duties of good and faithful pilgrims. Presently the Rais joined our party, and the usual story-telling began. The old man knew the name of each hill, and had a legend for every nook and corner in sight. He dwelt at length upon the life of Abu Zulaymah, the patron saint of these seas, whose little tomb stands at no great distance from our bivouac place, and told us how he sits watching over the safety of pious122 mariners123 in a cave among the neighbouring rocks, and sipping124 his coffee, which is brought in a raw state from Meccah by green birds, and prepared in the usual way by the hands of ministering angels. He showed us the spot where the terrible king of Egypt, when close upon the heels of the children of Israel, was whelmed in the “hell of waters,19” and he warned us that next day our way would be through breakers, and reefs, and dangerous currents, over whose troubled depths, since that awful day, the Ifrit of the storm has never ceased to flap his sable63 wing. The wincing125 of the hearers proved that the shaft126 of the old man’s words was sharp; but as night was advancing, we unrolled our rugs, and fell asleep upon the sand, all of us happy, for we had fed and drunk, and — the homo sapiens is a hopeful animal — we made sure that on the morrow the Ifrit would be merciful, and allow us to eat fresh dates at the harbour of Tur.
Fair visions of dates doomed127 to the Limbo128 of things which should have been! The grey dawn (8th July) looked down upon us in difficulties. The water is deep near this coast; we had anchored at high tide close to the shore, and the ebb129 had left us high and dry. When this fact became apparent, a storm was upon the point of breaking. The Maghrabis, but for our interference, would have bastinadoed the Rais, who, they said with some reason, ought to have known better. When this phase of feeling passed away, they applied130 themselves to physical efforts. All except the women and children, who stood on the shore encouraging their relatives with shrill quaverings, threw themselves into the water; some pushed, others applied their shoulders to the vessel’s side, and all used their lungs with might and main. But the “Golden Wire” was firmly fixed131, and their exertions were too irregular. Muscular force failed, upon which they changed their tactics. At the suggestion of their “Maula,” they prepared to burn incense132 in honour of the Shaykh Abu Zulaymah. The material not being forthcoming, they used coffee, which perhaps accounts for the shortcomings of that holy man. After this the Rais remembered that their previous exertions had not begun under the auspices134 of the Fatihah. Therefore they prayed, and then reapplied themselves to work. Still they failed. Finally, each man called aloud upon his own particular saint or spiritual guide, and rushed forward as if he alone sufficed for the exploit. Shaykh Hamid unwisely quoted the name, and begged the assistance, of his great ancestor, the “Clarified-Butter-Seller”; the obdurate135 “Golden Wire” was not moved, and Hamid retired136 in momentary confusion.
It was now about nine A.M., and the water had risen considerably. My morning had been passed in watching the influx137 of the tide, and the grotesque138 efforts of the Maghrabis. When the vessel showed some symptoms of unsteadiness, I arose, walked gravely up to her, ranged the pilgrims around her with their shoulders to the sides, and told them to heave with might when they heard me invoke139 the revered140 name of my patron saint. I raised my hands and voice; “Ya Piran Pir! Ya Abd al-Kadir Jilani20” was the signal. Each Maghrabi worked like an Atlas141, the “Golden Wire” canted half over, and, sliding heavily through the sand, once more floated off into deep water. This was generally voted a minor142 miracle, and the Effendi was respected — for a day or two.
The wind was fair, but we had all to re-embark, an operation which went on till noon. After starting I remarked the natural cause which gives this Birkat Faraun — “Pharaoh’s Bay,” — a bad name. Here the gulf143 narrows; and the winds, which rush down the clefts144 and valleys of the lofty mountains on the Eastern and Western shores, meeting tides and counter-currents, cause a perpetual commotion145. That day the foam146-tipped waves repeatedly washed over my cot, by no means diminishing its discomforts147. In the evening, or rather late in the afternoon, we anchored, to our infinite disgust, under a ridge89 of rocks, behind which lies the plain of Tur. The Rais deterred148 all from going on shore by terrible stories about the Badawin that haunt the place, besides which there was no sand to sleep upon. We remained, therefore, on board that night; and, making sail early the next morning, we threaded through reefs and sand-banks about noon into the intricate and dangerous entrance of Tur.
Nothing can be meaner than the present appearance of the old Phoenician colony, although its position as a harbour, and its plentiful149 supply of fruit and fresh water, make it one of the most frequented places on the coast. The only remains150 of any antiquity151 — except the wells — are the fortifications which the Portuguese152 erected to keep out the Badawin. The little town lies upon a plain that stretches with a gradual rise from the sea to the lofty mountain-axis of the Sinaitic group. The country around reminded me strongly of maritime153 Sind; a flat of clay and sand, clothed with sparse154 turfs of Salsolae, and bearing strong signs of a (geologically speaking) recent origin. The town is inhabited principally by Greek and other Christians155,21 who live by selling water and provisions to ships. A fleecy cloud hung lightly over the majestic156 head of Jabal Tur, about eventide, and the outlines of the giant hills stood “picked out” from the clear blue sky. Our Rais, weather-wise man, warned us that these were indications of a gale, and that, in case of rough weather, he did not intend to leave Tur. I was not sorry to hear this. We had passed a pleasant day, drinking sweet water, and eating the dates, grapes, and pomegranates, which the people of the place carry down to the beach for the benefit of hungry pilgrims. Besides which, there were various sights to see, and with these we might profitably spend the morrow. We therefore pitched the tent upon the sand, and busied ourselves with extricating157 a box of provisions: the labour was rendered lighter158 by the absence of the Maghrabis, some of whom were wandering about the beach, whilst others had gone off to fill their bags with fresh water. We found their surliness insufferable; even when we were passing from poop to forecastle, landing or boarding, they grumbled159 forth133 their dissatisfaction.
Our Rais was not mistaken in his prediction. The fleecy cloud on Tur’s tops had given true warning. When morning (9th July) broke, we found the wind strong, and the sea white with foam. Most of us thought lightly of these terrors, but our valorous captain swore that he dared not for his life cross in such a storm the mouth of ill-omened Akabah. We breakfasted, therefore, and afterwards set out to visit Moses’ Hot Baths, mounted on wretched donkeys with pack-saddles, ignorant of stirrups, and without tails, whilst we ourselves suffered generally from boils, which, as usual upon a journey, make their appearance in localities the most inconvenient160. Our road lay northward161 across the plain towards a long narrow strip of date ground, surrounded by a ruinous mud wall. After a ride of two or three miles, we entered the gardens, and came suddenly upon the Hammam. It is a prim162 little Cockney bungalow163, built by Abbas Pasha of Egypt for his own accommodation; glaringly whitewashed164, and garnished165 with diwans and calico curtains of a gorgeous hue. The guardian166 had been warned of our visit, and was present to supply us with bathing-cloths and other necessaries. One by one we entered the cistern167, which is now in an inner room. The water is about four feet deep, warm in winter, cool in summer, of a saltish-bitter taste, but celebrated168 for its invigorating qualities, when applied externally. On one side of the calcareous rock, near the ground, is the hole opened for the spring by Moses’ rod, which must have been like the “mast of some tall Ammiral22”; and near it are the marks of Moses’ nails — deep indentations in the stone, which were probably left there by some extinct Saurian. Our Cicerone informed us that formerly169 the finger-marks existed, and that they were long enough for a man to lie in. The same functionary170 attributed the sanitary171 properties of the spring to the blessings172 of the Prophet, and, when asked why Moses had not made sweet water to flow, informed us that the Great Lawgiver had intended the spring for bathing in, not for drinking. We sat with him, eating the small yellow dates of Tur, which are delicious, melting like honey in the mouth, and leaving a surpassing arriere gout. After finishing sundry173 pipes and cups of coffee, we gave the bath-man a few piastres, and, mounting our donkeys, started eastward174 for the Bir Musa,23 which we reached in half an hour. It is a fine old work, built round and domed175 over with roughly squared stones, very like what may be seen in some rustic176 parts of Southern England. The sides of the pit were so rugged that a man could climb down them, and at the bottom was a pool of water, sweet and abundant. We had intended to stay there, and to dine al fresco177, but the hated faces of our companions, the Maghrabis, meeting us at the entrance, nipped that project in the bud. Accordingly we retired from the burning sun to a neighbouring coffee-house — a shed of palm leaves kept by a Tur man, and there, seated on mats, we demolished178 the contents of our basket. Whilst we were eating, some Badawin came in and joined us, when invited so to do. They were poorly dressed, and all armed with knives and cheap sabres, hanging to leathern bandoleers: in language and demeanour they showed few remains of their old ferocity. As late as Mohammed Ali’s time these people were noted179 wreckers, and formerly they were dreaded180 pirates: now they are lions with their fangs181 and claws drawn182.
In the even, when we returned to our tent, a Syrian, one of our party on the poop, came out to meet us with the information that several large vessels183 had arrived from Suez, comparatively speaking, empty, and that the captain of one of them would land us at Yambu’ for three dollars a head. The proposal was tempting184. But presently it became apparent that my companions were unwilling185 to shift their precious boxes, and moreover, that I should have to pay for those who could not or would not pay for themselves, — that is to say, for the whole party. As such a display of wealth would have been unadvisable, I dismissed the idea with a sigh. Amongst the large vessels was one freighted with Persian pilgrims, a most disagreeable race of men on a journey or a voyage. They would not land at first, because they feared the Badawin. They would not take water from the town people, because some of these were Christians. Moreover, they insisted upon making their own call to prayer, which heretical proceeding186 — it admits five extra words — our party, orthodox Moslems, would rather have died than have permitted. When their crier, a small wizen-faced man, began the Azan with a voice
“in quel tenore
Che fa il cappon quando talvolta canta,”
we received it with a shout of derision, and some, hastily snatching up their weapons, offered him an opportunity of martyrdom. The Maghrabis, too, hearing that the Persians were Rafaz (heretics) crowded fiercely round to do a little Jihad, or Fighting for the Faith. The long-bearded men took the alarm. They were twice the number of our small party, and therefore they had been in the habit of strutting187 about with nonchalance188, and looking at us fixedly189, and otherwise demeaning themselves in an indecorous way. But when it came to the point, they showed the white feather. These Persians accompanied us to the end of our voyage. As they approached the Holy Land, visions of the “Nabbut” caused a change for the better in their manners. At Mahar they meekly190 endured a variety of insults, and at Yambu’ they cringed to us like dogs.
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1
pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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2
fiery
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| adj.燃烧着的，火红的；暴躁的；激烈的 | |
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3
chattels
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| n.动产，奴隶( chattel的名词复数 ) | |
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bout
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| n.侵袭，发作；一次(阵，回)；拳击等比赛 | |
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5
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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6
din
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| n.喧闹声，嘈杂声 | |
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7
shrieking
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| v.尖叫( shriek的现在分词 ) | |
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8
shriek
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| v./n.尖叫，叫喊 | |
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9
moored
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| adj. 系泊的 动词moor的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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10
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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11
brawny
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| adj.强壮的 | |
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12
embarked
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| 乘船( embark的过去式和过去分词 )； 装载； 从事 | |
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13
briefly
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| adv.简单地，简短地 | |
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14
peremptorily
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| adv.紧急地，不容分说地，专横地 | |
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15
hoisted
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| 把…吊起，升起( hoist的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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16
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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17
organise
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| vt.组织，安排，筹办 | |
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18
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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19
insolence
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| n.傲慢；无礼；厚颜；傲慢的态度 | |
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20
gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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21
imminently
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| 迫切地，紧急地 | |
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22
considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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23
triangular
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| adj.三角（形）的，三者间的 | |
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24
tack
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| n.大头钉；假缝，粗缝 | |
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25
odious
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| adj.可憎的，讨厌的 | |
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26
torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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27
cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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28
demon
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| n.魔鬼，恶魔 | |
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29
seaman
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| n.海员，水手，水兵 | |
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30
proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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31
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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32
wretches
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| n.不幸的人( wretch的名词复数 )；可怜的人；恶棍；坏蛋 | |
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33
squatted
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| v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的过去式和过去分词 )；非法擅自占用（土地或房屋）；为获得其所有权；而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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34
bulwarks
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| n.堡垒( bulwark的名词复数 )；保障；支柱；舷墙 | |
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35
slung
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| 抛( sling的过去式和过去分词 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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36
torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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37
savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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38
insolent
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| adj.傲慢的，无理的 | |
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39
countenances
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| n.面容( countenance的名词复数 )；表情；镇静；道义支持 | |
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40
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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41
shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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42
daggers
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| 匕首，短剑( dagger的名词复数 ) | |
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43
dagger
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| n.匕首，短剑，剑号 | |
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44
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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45
hoods
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| n.兜帽( hood的名词复数 )；头巾；（汽车、童车等的）折合式车篷；汽车发动机罩v.兜帽( hood的第三人称单数 )；头巾；（汽车、童车等的）折合式车篷；汽车发动机罩 | |
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46
prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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47
slipper
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| n.拖鞋 | |
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48
hordes
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| n.移动着的一大群( horde的名词复数 )；部落 | |
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49
followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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50
entirely
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|
| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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51
providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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52
insufficient
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| adj.(for，of)不足的，不够的 | |
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53
rev
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| v.发动机旋转，加快速度 | |
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54
pugnacity
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| n.好斗，好战 | |
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55
ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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56
semblance
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| n.外貌，外表 | |
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57
butting
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| 用头撞人（犯规动作） | |
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58
trampling
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| 踩( trample的现在分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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59
fray
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| v.争吵；打斗；磨损，磨破；n.吵架；打斗 | |
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60
obnoxious
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|
| adj.极恼人的，讨人厌的，可憎的 | |
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61
calf
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| n.小牛，犊，幼仔，小牛皮 | |
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62
contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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63
sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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64
dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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65
disturbance
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| n.动乱，骚动；打扰，干扰；(身心)失调 | |
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66
ashen
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| adj.灰的 | |
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67
flinching
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| v.（因危险和痛苦）退缩，畏惧( flinch的现在分词 ) | |
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68
swarm
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| n.(昆虫)等一大群；vi.成群飞舞；蜂拥而入 | |
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69
swarmed
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|
| 密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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70
exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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71
bruised
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| [医]青肿的，瘀紫的 | |
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72
spotted
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|
| adj.有斑点的，斑纹的，弄污了的 | |
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73
solicited
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|
| v.恳求( solicit的过去式和过去分词 )；（指娼妇）拉客；索求；征求 | |
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74
bind
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|
| vt.捆，包扎；装订；约束；使凝固；vi.变硬 | |
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75
exertions
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|
| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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76
meek
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|
| adj.温顺的，逆来顺受的 | |
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77
chastised
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|
| v.严惩（某人）（尤指责打）( chastise的过去式 ) | |
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78
bellied
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|
| adj.有腹的，大肚子的 | |
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79
favourable
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|
| adj.赞成的，称赞的，有利的，良好的，顺利的 | |
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80
consulate
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| n.领事馆 | |
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81
momentary
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|
| adj.片刻的，瞬息的；短暂的 | |
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82
stifled
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| （使）窒息， （使）窒闷( stifle的过去式和过去分词 )； 镇压，遏制； 堵 | |
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83
prospects
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|
| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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84
foe
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|
| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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85
sojourn
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|
| v./n.旅居，寄居；逗留 | |
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86
infamous
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|
| adj.声名狼藉的，臭名昭著的，邪恶的 | |
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87
adventurous
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|
| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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88
grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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89
ridge
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|
| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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90
ridges
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|
| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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91
deficient
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|
| adj.不足的，不充份的，有缺陷的 | |
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92
tints
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|
| 色彩( tint的名词复数 )； 带白的颜色； （淡色）染发剂； 痕迹 | |
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93
amethyst
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| n.紫水晶 | |
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94
rosy
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|
| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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95
lining
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| n.衬里，衬料 | |
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96
compensated
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|
| 补偿，报酬( compensate的过去式和过去分词 )； 给（某人）赔偿（或赔款） | |
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97
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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98
opium
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| n.鸦片；adj.鸦片的 | |
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99
perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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100
reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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101
drench
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| v.使淋透，使湿透 | |
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102
dozing
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| v.打瞌睡,假寐 n.瞌睡 | |
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103
crouching
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| v.屈膝，蹲伏( crouch的现在分词 ) | |
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104
impatience
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| n.不耐烦，急躁 | |
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105
picturesque
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|
| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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106
enchanted
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|
| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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107
quartz
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| n.石英 | |
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108
gravel
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| n.砂跞；砂砾层；结石 | |
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109
lodgings
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| n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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110
luxurious
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|
| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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111
ERECTED
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|
| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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112
hearth
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| n.壁炉炉床，壁炉地面 | |
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113
leeward
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| adj.背风的；下风的 | |
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114
broiled
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| a.烤过的 | |
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115
charcoal
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| n.炭，木炭，生物炭 | |
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116
grievance
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| n.怨愤，气恼，委屈 | |
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117
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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118
penitence
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| n.忏悔，赎罪；悔过 | |
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119
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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120
intelligible
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| adj.可理解的，明白易懂的，清楚的 | |
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121
repented
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| 对（自己的所为）感到懊悔或忏悔( repent的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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122
pious
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| adj.虔诚的；道貌岸然的 | |
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123
mariners
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| 海员，水手（mariner的复数形式） | |
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124
sipping
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| v.小口喝，呷，抿( sip的现在分词 ) | |
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125
wincing
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| 赶紧避开，畏缩( wince的现在分词 ) | |
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126
shaft
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| n.(工具的)柄，杆状物 | |
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127
doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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128
limbo
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| n.地狱的边缘；监狱 | |
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129
ebb
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| vi.衰退，减退；n.处于低潮，处于衰退状态 | |
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130
applied
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| adj.应用的；v.应用，适用 | |
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131
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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132
incense
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| v.激怒；n.香，焚香时的烟，香气 | |
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133
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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134
auspices
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| n.资助，赞助 | |
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135
obdurate
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| adj.固执的，顽固的 | |
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136
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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137
influx
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| n.流入，注入 | |
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138
grotesque
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| adj.怪诞的，丑陋的；n.怪诞的图案，怪人（物） | |
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139
invoke
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| v.求助于(神、法律)；恳求，乞求 | |
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140
revered
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| v.崇敬，尊崇，敬畏( revere的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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141
atlas
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| n.地图册，图表集 | |
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142
minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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143
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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144
clefts
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| n.裂缝( cleft的名词复数 )；裂口；cleave的过去式和过去分词；进退维谷 | |
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145
commotion
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| n.骚动，动乱 | |
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146
foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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147
discomforts
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| n.不舒适( discomfort的名词复数 )；不愉快，苦恼 | |
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148
deterred
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| v.阻止，制止( deter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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149
plentiful
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| adj.富裕的，丰富的 | |
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150
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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151
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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152
Portuguese
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| n.葡萄牙人；葡萄牙语 | |
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153
maritime
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| adj.海的，海事的，航海的，近海的，沿海的 | |
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154
sparse
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| adj.稀疏的，稀稀落落的，薄的 | |
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155
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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156
majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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157
extricating
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| v.使摆脱困难，脱身( extricate的现在分词 ) | |
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158
lighter
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| n.打火机，点火器；驳船；v.用驳船运送；light的比较级 | |
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159
grumbled
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| 抱怨( grumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 发牢骚； 咕哝； 发哼声 | |
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160
inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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161
northward
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| adv.向北；n.北方的地区 | |
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162
prim
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| adj.拘泥形式的，一本正经的；n.循规蹈矩，整洁；adv.循规蹈矩地，整洁地 | |
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163
bungalow
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| n.平房，周围有阳台的木造小平房 | |
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164
whitewashed
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| 粉饰，美化，掩饰( whitewash的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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165
garnished
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| v.给（上餐桌的食物）加装饰( garnish的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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166
guardian
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| n.监护人；守卫者，保护者 | |
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167
cistern
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| n.贮水池 | |
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168
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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169
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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170
functionary
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| n.官员；公职人员 | |
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171
sanitary
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| adj.卫生方面的，卫生的，清洁的，卫生的 | |
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172
blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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173
sundry
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| adj.各式各样的，种种的 | |
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174
eastward
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| adv.向东；adj.向东的；n.东方，东部 | |
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175
domed
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| adj. 圆屋顶的, 半球形的, 拱曲的 动词dome的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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176
rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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177
fresco
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| n.壁画；vt.作壁画于 | |
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178
demolished
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| v.摧毁( demolish的过去式和过去分词 )；推翻；拆毁（尤指大建筑物）；吃光 | |
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179
noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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180
dreaded
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| adj.令人畏惧的；害怕的v.害怕，恐惧，担心( dread的过去式和过去分词) | |
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181
fangs
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| n.（尤指狗和狼的）长而尖的牙( fang的名词复数 )；（蛇的）毒牙；罐座 | |
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182
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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183
vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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184
tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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185
unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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186
proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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187
strutting
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| 加固，支撑物 | |
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188
nonchalance
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| n.冷淡，漠不关心 | |
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189
fixedly
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| adv.固定地；不屈地，坚定不移地 | |
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190
meekly
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| adv.温顺地，逆来顺受地 | |
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