On the first day, I began business by looking for two hours at the sea, and staring the Foreign Militia2 out of countenance3. Having disposed of these important engagements, I sat down at one of the two windows of my room, intent on doing something desperate in the way of literary composition, and writing a chapter of unheard-of excellence4 — with which the present essay has no connexion.
It is a remarkable5 quality in a watering-place out of the season, that everything in it, will and must be looked at. I had no previous suspicion of this fatal truth but, the moment I sat down to write, I began to perceive it. I had scarcely fallen into my most promising6 attitude, and dipped my pen in the ink, when I found the clock upon the pier7 — a red-faced clock with a white rim8 — importuning9 me in a highly vexatious manner to consult my watch, and see how I was off for Greenwich time. Having no intention of making a voyage or taking an observation, I had not the least need of Greenwich time, and could have put up with watering-place time as a sufficiently10 accurate article. The pier-clock, however, persisting, I felt it necessary to lay down my pen, compare my watch with him, and fall into a grave solicitude11 about half-seconds. I had taken up my pen again, and was about to commence that valuable chapter, when a Custom-house cutter under the window requested that I would hold a naval12 review of her, immediately.
It was impossible, under the circumstances, for any mental resolution, merely human, to dismiss the Custom-house cutter, because the shadow of her topmast fell upon my paper, and the vane played on the masterly blank chapter. I was therefore under the necessity of going to the other window; sitting astride of the chair there, like Napoleon bivouacking in the print; and inspecting the cutter as she lay, all that day, in the way of my chapter, O! She was rigged to carry a quantity of canvas, but her hull13 was so very small that four giants aboard of her (three men and a boy) who were vigilantly14 scraping at her, all together, inspired me with a terror lest they should scrape her away. A fifth giant, who appeared to consider himself ‘below’ — as indeed he was, from the waist downwards15 — meditated16, in such close proximity17 with the little gusty18 chimney-pipe, that he seemed to be smoking it. Several boys looked on from the wharf19, and, when the gigantic attention appeared to be fully20 occupied, one or other of these would furtively21 swing himself in mid-air over the Custom-house cutter, by means of a line pendant from her rigging, like a young spirit of the storm. Presently, a sixth hand brought down two little water-casks; presently afterwards, a truck came, and delivered a hamper22. I was now under an obligation to consider that the cutter was going on a cruise, and to wonder where she was going, and when she was going, and why she was going, and at what date she might be expected back, and who commanded her? With these pressing questions I was fully occupied when the Packet, making ready to go across, and blowing off her spare steam, roared, ‘Look at me!’
It became a positive duty to look at the Packet preparing to go across; aboard of which, the people newly come down by the rail-road were hurrying in a great fluster23. The crew had got their tarry overalls24 on — and one knew what THAT meant — not to mention the white basins, ranged in neat little piles of a dozen each, behind the door of the after-cabin. One lady as I looked, one resigning and far-seeing woman, took her basin from the store of crockery, as she might have taken a refreshment-ticket, laid herself down on deck with that utensil25 at her ear, muffled26 her feet in one shawl, solemnly covered her countenance after the antique manner with another, and on the completion of these preparations appeared by the strength of her volition27 to become insensible. The mail-bags (O that I myself had the sea-legs of a mail-bag!) were tumbled aboard; the Packet left off roaring, warped28 out, and made at the white line upon the bar. One dip, one roll, one break of the sea over her bows, and Moore’s Almanack or the sage29 Raphael could not have told me more of the state of things aboard, than I knew.
The famous chapter was all but begun now, and would have been quite begun, but for the wind. It was blowing stiffly from the east, and it rumbled30 in the chimney and shook the house. That was not much; but, looking out into the wind’s grey eye for inspiration, I laid down my pen again to make the remark to myself, how emphatically everything by the sea declares that it has a great concern in the state of the wind. The trees blown all one way; the defences of the harbour reared highest and strongest against the raging point; the shingle31 flung up on the beach from the same direction; the number of arrows pointed32 at the common enemy; the sea tumbling in and rushing towards them as if it were inflamed33 by the sight. This put it in my head that I really ought to go out and take a walk in the wind; so, I gave up the magnificent chapter for that day, entirely34 persuading myself that I was under a moral obligation to have a blow.
I had a good one, and that on the high road — the very high road — on the top of the cliffs, where I met the stage-coach with all the outsides holding their hats on and themselves too, and overtook a flock of sheep with the wool about their necks blown into such great ruffs that they looked like fleecy owls35. The wind played upon the lighthouse as if it were a great whistle, the spray was driven over the sea in a cloud of haze36, the ships rolled and pitched heavily, and at intervals37 long slants38 and flaws of light made mountain-steeps of communication between the ocean and the sky. A walk of ten miles brought me to a seaside town without a cliff, which, like the town I had come from, was out of the season too. Half of the houses were shut up; half of the other half were to let; the town might have done as much business as it was doing then, if it had been at the bottom of the sea. Nobody seemed to flourish save the attorney; his clerk’s pen was going in the bow-window of his wooden house; his brass39 door-plate alone was free from salt, and had been polished up that morning. On the beach, among the rough buggers and capstans, groups of storm-beaten boatmen, like a sort of marine40 monsters, watched under the lee of those objects, or stood leaning forward against the wind, looking out through battered41 spy-glasses. The parlour bell in the Admiral Benbow had grown so flat with being out of the season, that neither could I hear it ring when I pulled the handle for lunch, nor could the young woman in black stockings and strong shoes, who acted as waiter out of the season, until it had been tinkled42 three times.
Admiral Benbow’s cheese was out of the season, but his home-made bread was good, and his beer was perfect. Deluded43 by some earlier spring day which had been warm and sunny, the Admiral had cleared the firing out of his parlour stove, and had put some flower-pots in — which was amiable44 and hopeful in the Admiral, but not judicious45: the room being, at that present visiting, transcendantly cold. I therefore took the liberty of peeping out across a little stone passage into the Admiral’s kitchen, and, seeing a high settle with its back towards me drawn46 out in front of the Admiral’s kitchen fire, I strolled in, bread and cheese in hand, munching47 and looking about. One landsman and two boatmen were seated on the settle, smoking pipes and drinking beer out of thick pint48 crockery mugs — mugs peculiar49 to such places, with parti-coloured rings round them, and ornaments50 between the rings like frayed-out roots. The landsman was relating his experience, as yet only three nights old, of a fearful running-down case in the Channel, and therein presented to my imagination a sound of music that it will not soon forget.
‘At that identical moment of time,’ said he (he was a prosy man by nature, who rose with his subject), ‘the night being light and calm, but with a grey mist upon the water that didn’t seem to spread for more than two or three mile, I was walking up and down the wooden causeway next the pier, off where it happened, along with a friend of mine, which his name is Mr. Clocker. Mr. Clocker is a grocer over yonder.’ (From the direction in which he pointed the bowl of his pipe, I might have judged Mr. Clocker to be a merman, established in the grocery trade in five-and-twenty fathoms51 of water.) ‘We were smoking our pipes, and walking up and down the causeway, talking of one thing and talking of another. We were quite alone there, except that a few hovellers’ (the Kentish name for ‘long-shore boatmen like his companions) ‘were hanging about their lugs52, waiting while the tide made, as hovellers will.’ (One of the two boatmen, thoughtfully regarding me, shut up one eye; this I understood to mean: first, that he took me into the conversation: secondly53, that he confirmed the proposition: thirdly, that he announced himself as a hoveller.) ‘All of a sudden Mr. Clocker and me stood rooted to the spot, by hearing a sound come through the stillness, right over the sea, LIKE A GREAT SORROWFUL FLUTE54 OR AEOLIAN HARP55. We didn’t in the least know what it was, and judge of our surprise when we saw the hovellers, to a man, leap into the boats and tear about to hoist56 sail and get off, as if they had every one of ’em gone, in a moment, raving57 mad! But THEY knew it was the cry of distress58 from the sinking emigrant59 ship.’
When I got back to my watering-place out of the season, and had done my twenty miles in good style, I found that the celebrated60 Black Mesmerist intended favouring the public that evening in the Hall of the Muses61, which he had engaged for the purpose. After a good dinner, seated by the fire in an easy chair, I began to waver in a design I had formed of waiting on the Black Mesmerist, and to incline towards the expediency63 of remaining where I was. Indeed a point of gallantry was involved in my doing so, inasmuch as I had not left France alone, but had come from the prisons of St. Pelagie with my distinguished64 and unfortunate friend Madame Roland (in two volumes which I bought for two francs each, at the book-stall in the Place de la Concorde, Paris, at the corner of the Rue65 Royale). Deciding to pass the evening tete-a-tete with Madame Roland, I derived66, as I always do, great pleasure from that spiritual woman’s society, and the charms of her brave soul and engaging conversation. I must confess that if she had only some more faults, only a few more passionate67 failings of any kind, I might love her better; but I am content to believe that the deficiency is in me, and not in her. We spent some sadly interesting hours together on this occasion, and she told me again of her cruel discharge from the Abbaye, and of her being re-arrested before her free feet had sprung lightly up half-a-dozen steps of her own staircase, and carried off to the prison which she only left for the guillotine.
Madame Roland and I took leave of one another before mid-night, and I went to bed full of vast intentions for next day, in connexion with the unparalleled chapter. To hear the foreign mail-steamers coming in at dawn of day, and to know that I was not aboard or obliged to get up, was very comfortable; so, I rose for the chapter in great force.
I had advanced so far as to sit down at my window again on my second morning, and to write the first half-line of the chapter and strike it out, not liking68 it, when my conscience reproached me with not having surveyed the watering-place out of the season, after all, yesterday, but with having gone straight out of it at the rate of four miles and a half an hour. Obviously the best amends69 that I could make for this remissness70 was to go and look at it without another moment’s delay. So — altogether as a matter of duty — I gave up the magnificent chapter for another day, and sauntered out with my hands in my pockets.
All the houses and lodgings71 ever let to visitors, were to let that morning. It seemed to have snowed bills with To Let upon them. This put me upon thinking what the owners of all those apartments did, out of the season; how they employed their time, and occupied their minds. They could not be always going to the Methodist chapels72, of which I passed one every other minute. They must have some other recreation. Whether they pretended to take one another’s lodgings, and opened one another’s tea-caddies in fun? Whether they cut slices off their own beef and mutton, and made believe that it belonged to somebody else? Whether they played little dramas of life, as children do, and said, ‘I ought to come and look at your apartments, and you ought to ask two guineas a-week too much, and then I ought to say I must have the rest of the day to think of it, and then you ought to say that another lady and gentleman with no children in family had made an offer very close to your own terms, and you had passed your word to give them a positive answer in half an hour, and indeed were just going to take the bill down when you heard the knock, and then I ought to take them, you know?’ Twenty such speculations73 engaged my thoughts. Then, after passing, still clinging to the walls, defaced rags of the bills of last year’s Circus, I came to a back field near a timber-yard where the Circus itself had been, and where there was yet a sort of monkish74 tonsure75 on the grass, indicating the spot where the young lady had gone round upon her pet steed Firefly in her daring flight. Turning into the town again, I came among the shops, and they were emphatically out of the season. The chemist had no boxes of ginger-beer powders, no beautifying sea-side soaps and washes, no attractive scents77; nothing but his great goggle-eyed red bottles, looking as if the winds of winter and the drift of the salt-sea had inflamed them. The grocers’ hot pickles78, Harvey’s Sauce, Doctor Kitchener’s Zest79, Anchovy80 Paste, Dundee Marmalade, and the whole stock of luxurious81 helps to appetite, were hybernating somewhere underground. The china-shop had no trifles from anywhere. The Bazaar82 had given in altogether, and presented a notice on the shutters83 that this establishment would re-open at Whitsuntide, and that the proprietor84 in the meantime might be heard of at Wild Lodge85, East Cliff. At the Sea-bathing Establishment, a row of neat little wooden houses seven or eight feet high, I SAW the proprietor in bed in the shower-bath. As to the bathing-machines, they were (how they got there, is not for me to say) at the top of a hill at least a mile and a half off. The library, which I had never seen otherwise than wide open, was tight shut; and two peevish86 bald old gentlemen seemed to be hermetically sealed up inside, eternally reading the paper. That wonderful mystery, the music-shop, carried it off as usual (except that it had more cabinet pianos in stock), as if season or no season were all one to it. It made the same prodigious87 display of bright brazen88 wind-instruments, horribly twisted, worth, as I should conceive, some thousands of pounds, and which it is utterly89 impossible that anybody in any season can ever play or want to play. It had five triangles in the window, six pairs of castanets, and three harps90; likewise every polka with a coloured frontispiece that ever was published; from the original one where a smooth male and female Pole of high rank are coming at the observer with their arms a-kimbo, to the Ratcatcher’s Daughter. Astonishing establishment, amazing enigma91! Three other shops were pretty much out of the season, what they were used to be in it. First, the shop where they sell the sailors’ watches, which had still the old collection of enormous timekeepers, apparently92 designed to break a fall from the masthead: with places to wind them up, like fire-plugs. Secondly, the shop where they sell the sailors’ clothing, which displayed the old sou’-westers, and the old oily suits, and the old pea-jackets, and the old one sea-chest, with its handles like a pair of rope ear-rings. Thirdly, the unchangeable shop for the sale of literature that has been left behind. Here, Dr. Faustus was still going down to very red and yellow perdition, under the superintendence of three green personages of a scaly93 humour, with excrescential serpents growing out of their blade-bones. Here, the Golden Dreamer, and the Norwood Fortune Teller94, were still on sale at sixpence each, with instructions for making the dumb cake, and reading destinies in tea-cups, and with a picture of a young woman with a high waist lying on a sofa in an attitude so uncomfortable as almost to account for her dreaming at one and the same time of a conflagration95, a shipwreck96, an earthquake, a skeleton, a church-porch, lightning, funerals performed, and a young man in a bright blue coat and canary pantaloons. Here, were Little Warblers and Fairburn’s Comic Songsters. Here, too, were ballads98 on the old ballad97 paper and in the old confusion of types; with an old man in a cocked hat, and an arm-chair, for the illustration to Will Watch the bold Smuggler99; and the Friar of Orders Grey, represented by a little girl in a hoop100, with a ship in the distance. All these as of yore, when they were infinite delights to me!
It took me so long fully to relish101 these many enjoyments102, that I had not more than an hour before bedtime to devote to Madame Roland. We got on admirably together on the subject of her convent education, and I rose next morning with the full conviction that the day for the great chapter was at last arrived.
It had fallen calm, however, in the night, and as I sat at breakfast I blushed to remember that I had not yet been on the Downs. I a walker, and not yet on the Downs! Really, on so quiet and bright a morning this must be set right. As an essential part of the Whole Duty of Man, therefore, I left the chapter to itself — for the present — and went on the Downs. They were wonderfully green and beautiful, and gave me a good deal to do. When I had done with the free air and the view, I had to go down into the valley and look after the hops76 (which I know nothing about), and to be equally solicitous103 as to the cherry orchards104. Then I took it on myself to cross-examine a tramping family in black (mother alleged105, I have no doubt by herself in person, to have died last week), and to accompany eighteenpence which produced a great effect, with moral admonitions which produced none at all. Finally, it was late in the afternoon before I got back to the unprecedented106 chapter, and then I determined107 that it was out of the season, as the place was, and put it away.
I went at night to the benefit of Mrs. B. Wedgington at the Theatre, who had placarded the town with the admonition, ‘DON’T FORGET IT!’ I made the house, according to my calculation, four and ninepence to begin with, and it may have warmed up, in the course of the evening, to half a sovereign. There was nothing to offend any one, — the good Mr. Baines of Leeds excepted. Mrs. B. Wedgington sang to a grand piano. Mr. B. Wedgington did the like, and also took off his coat, tucked up his trousers, and danced in clogs108. Master B. Wedgington, aged62 ten months, was nursed by a shivering young person in the boxes, and the eye of Mrs. B. Wedgington wandered that way more than once. Peace be with all the Wedgingtons from A. to Z. May they find themselves in the Season somewhere!
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1
bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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militia
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| n.民兵，民兵组织 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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excellence
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| n.优秀，杰出，(pl.)优点，美德 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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pier
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| n.码头；桥墩，桥柱；[建]窗间壁，支柱 | |
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rim
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| n.(圆物的)边，轮缘；边界 | |
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importuning
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| v.纠缠，向（某人）不断要求( importune的现在分词 )；（妓女）拉（客） | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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solicitude
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| n.焦虑 | |
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naval
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| adj.海军的，军舰的，船的 | |
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hull
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| n.船身；(果、实等的)外壳；vt.去(谷物等)壳 | |
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vigilantly
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| adv.警觉地，警惕地 | |
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downwards
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| adj./adv.向下的（地），下行的（地） | |
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meditated
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| 深思，沉思，冥想( meditate的过去式和过去分词 )； 内心策划，考虑 | |
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proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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gusty
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| adj.起大风的 | |
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wharf
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| n.码头，停泊处 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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furtively
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| adv. 偷偷地, 暗中地 | |
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hamper
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| vt.妨碍，束缚，限制；n.(有盖的)大篮子 | |
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fluster
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| adj.慌乱，狼狈，混乱，激动 | |
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overalls
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| n.（复）工装裤；长罩衣 | |
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utensil
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| n.器皿，用具 | |
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muffled
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| adj.（声音）被隔的；听不太清的；（衣服）裹严的；蒙住的v.压抑，捂住( muffle的过去式和过去分词 )；用厚厚的衣帽包着（自己） | |
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volition
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| n.意志；决意 | |
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warped
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| adj.反常的；乖戾的；（变）弯曲的；变形的v.弄弯，变歪( warp的过去式和过去分词 )；使（行为等）不合情理，使乖戾， | |
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sage
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| n.圣人，哲人；adj.贤明的，明智的 | |
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rumbled
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| 发出隆隆声，发出辘辘声( rumble的过去式和过去分词 )； 轰鸣着缓慢行进； 发现…的真相； 看穿（阴谋） | |
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shingle
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| n.木瓦板；小招牌(尤指医生或律师挂的营业招牌)；v.用木瓦板盖（屋顶）；把（女子头发）剪短 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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inflamed
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| adj.发炎的，红肿的v.（使）变红，发怒，过热( inflame的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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owls
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| n.猫头鹰( owl的名词复数 ) | |
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haze
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| n.霾，烟雾；懵懂，迷糊；vi.(over)变模糊 | |
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intervals
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| n.[军事]间隔( interval的名词复数 )；间隔时间；[数学]区间；（戏剧、电影或音乐会的）幕间休息 | |
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slants
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| （使）倾斜，歪斜( slant的第三人称单数 )； 有倾向性地编写或报道 | |
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brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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marine
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| adj.海的；海生的；航海的；海事的；n.水兵 | |
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battered
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| adj.磨损的；v.连续猛击；磨损 | |
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tinkled
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| （使）发出丁当声，（使）发铃铃声( tinkle的过去式和过去分词 )； 叮当响着发出，铃铃响着报出 | |
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deluded
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| v.欺骗，哄骗( delude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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judicious
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| adj.明智的，明断的，能作出明智决定的 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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munching
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| v.用力咀嚼（某物），大嚼( munch的现在分词 ) | |
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48
pint
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| n.品脱 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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51
fathoms
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| 英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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52
lugs
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| 钎柄 | |
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53
secondly
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| adv.第二，其次 | |
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54
flute
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| n.长笛；v.吹笛 | |
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55
harp
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| n.竖琴；天琴座 | |
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56
hoist
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| n.升高，起重机，推动；v.升起，升高，举起 | |
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57
raving
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| adj.说胡话的；疯狂的，怒吼的；非常漂亮的；令人醉心[痴心]的v.胡言乱语(rave的现在分词)n.胡话；疯话adv.胡言乱语地；疯狂地 | |
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58
distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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59
emigrant
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| adj.移居的，移民的；n.移居外国的人，移民 | |
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60
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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61
muses
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| v.沉思，冥想( muse的第三人称单数 )；沉思自语说（某事） | |
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62
aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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63
expediency
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| n.适宜；方便；合算；利己 | |
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64
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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65
rue
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| n.懊悔，芸香，后悔；v.后悔，悲伤，懊悔 | |
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66
derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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67
passionate
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，激昂的，易动情的，易怒的，性情暴躁的 | |
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68
liking
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| n.爱好；嗜好；喜欢 | |
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69
amends
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| n. 赔偿 | |
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70
remissness
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| n.玩忽职守；马虎；怠慢；不小心 | |
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71
lodgings
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| n. 出租的房舍, 寄宿舍 | |
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72
chapels
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| n.小教堂， （医院、监狱等的）附属礼拜堂( chapel的名词复数 )；（在小教堂和附属礼拜堂举行的）礼拜仪式 | |
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73
speculations
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| n.投机买卖( speculation的名词复数 )；思考；投机活动；推断 | |
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74
monkish
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| adj.僧侣的，修道士的，禁欲的 | |
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75
tonsure
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| n.削发；v.剃 | |
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76
hops
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| 跳上[下]( hop的第三人称单数 )； 单足蹦跳； 齐足（或双足）跳行； 摘葎草花 | |
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77
scents
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| n.香水( scent的名词复数 )；气味；（动物的）臭迹；（尤指狗的）嗅觉 | |
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78
pickles
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| n.腌菜( pickle的名词复数 )；处于困境；遇到麻烦；菜酱 | |
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zest
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| n.乐趣；滋味，风味；兴趣 | |
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anchovy
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| n.凤尾鱼 | |
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81
luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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82
bazaar
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| n.集市，商店集中区 | |
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83
shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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84
proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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85
lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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86
peevish
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| adj.易怒的，坏脾气的 | |
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87
prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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88
brazen
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| adj.厚脸皮的，无耻的，坚硬的 | |
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89
utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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90
harps
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| abbr.harpsichord 拨弦古钢琴n.竖琴( harp的名词复数 ) | |
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enigma
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| n.谜，谜一样的人或事 | |
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92
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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93
scaly
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| adj.鱼鳞状的；干燥粗糙的 | |
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94
teller
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| n.银行出纳员；(选举)计票员 | |
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95
conflagration
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| n.建筑物或森林大火 | |
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96
shipwreck
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| n.船舶失事，海难 | |
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97
ballad
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| n.歌谣，民谣，流行爱情歌曲 | |
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98
ballads
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| 民歌，民谣，特别指叙述故事的歌( ballad的名词复数 )； 讴 | |
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99
smuggler
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| n.走私者 | |
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100
hoop
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| n.（篮球）篮圈，篮 | |
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101
relish
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| n.滋味，享受，爱好，调味品；vt.加调味料，享受，品味；vi.有滋味 | |
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102
enjoyments
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| 愉快( enjoyment的名词复数 )； 令人愉快的事物； 享有； 享受 | |
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103
solicitous
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| adj.热切的，挂念的 | |
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104
orchards
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| （通常指围起来的）果园( orchard的名词复数 ) | |
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105
alleged
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| a.被指控的，嫌疑的 | |
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106
unprecedented
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| adj.无前例的，新奇的 | |
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107
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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108
clogs
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| 木屐； 木底鞋，木屐( clog的名词复数 ) | |
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