Bright and early next morning we arose for an expedition across the bay to North Sydney and the coal-mines. A fresh breakfast in a sunny room, a brisk walk to the breezy, grass-grown parapet, that defends the harbor; a thought of the first expedition to lay down the telegraph line between the old and new hemispheres, for here lie the coils of the sub-marine cable, as they were left after the stormy essay of the steamer "James Adger," a year before—what a theme for a poet!
"Perhaps in this neglected spot is laid
Some spark, now dormant1, of electric fire:
News, that the board of brokers2 might have swayed,
Or broke the banks that trembled with the wire."
—and we take an airy seat on the poop-deck of the little English steamer, and are wafted3 across the[Pg 186] harbor, five miles, to a small sea-port, where coal-schutes and railways run out over the wharfs4, and coasters, both fore-and-aft, and square-rigged, are gathered in profusion5. A glass of English ale at a right salt-sea tavern6, a bay horse, and two-wheeled "jumper" for the road, and away we roll towards the mines. Now up hill and down; now passing another Micmac camp on the green margin7 of the beach; now by trim gardens without flowers; now getting nearer to the mines, which we know by the increasing blackness of the road; until at last we bowl past rows of one story dingy8 tenements9 of brick, with miners' wives and children clustered about them like funereal10 flowers; until we see the forges and jets of steam, and davits uplifted in the air; and hear the rattle11 of the iron trucks and the rush of the coal as it runs through the schutes into the rail-cars on the road beneath. We tie our pony12 beside a cinder-heap, and mount a ladder to the level of the huge platform above the shaft13. A constant supply of small hand-cars come up with demoniac groans15 and shrieks16 from the bowels17 of the earth through the shaft. These are instantly seized by the laborers18 and run over an iron floor to the schute, where they are caught in titantic trammels, and overturned into harsh thunder. Meanwhile the demon14 car-bringer has sunk again on its errand; the[Pg 187] suspending rope wheeling down with dizzy swiftness. As one car-bearer descends20, another rises to the surface with its twin wheel-vessels21 of coal.
"Would you like to go down?"
"How far down?"
"Sixty fathoms22."
Three hundred and sixty feet! Think of being suspended by a thread, from a height twice that of Trinity's spire23, and whirled into such a depth by steam! We crawled into the little iron box, just large enough to allow us to sit up with our heads against the top, both ends of our parachute being open; the operator presses down a bar, and instantly the earth and sky disappear, and we are wrapt in utter darkness. Oh? how sickening is this sinking feeling! Down—down—down! What a gigantic dumb-waiter! Down, down, a hot gust24 of vapor—a stifling25 sensation—a concussion26 upon the iron floor at the foot of the shaft; a multitude of twinkling lamps, of fiends, of grimy faces, and no bodies—and we are in a coal-mine.
There was a black, bituminous seat for visitors, sculptured out of the coal, just beyond the shaft, and to this we were led by the carboniferous fiends. My heart beat violently. I do not know how it went with Picton, but we were both silent. Oh![Pg 188] for a glimpse of the blue sky and waving trees above us, and a long breath of fresh air!
As soon as the stifling sensation passed away, we breathed more freely, and the lungs became accustomed to the subterranean27 atmosphere. In the gloom, we could see the smutted features only, of miners moving about, and to heighten the Dantesque reality, new and strange sounds, from different parts of the enormous cavern28, came pouring towards the common centre—the shaft of the coal-pit.
These were the laden29 cars on the tram-ways, drawn30 by invisible horses, from the distant works in the mine, rolling and reverberating31 through the infernal aisles32 of this devil's cathedral. One could scarcely help recalling the old grandfather of Maud's Lord-lover:
——"lately died,
Gone to a blacker pit, for whom
Grimy nakedness, dragging his trucks
And laying his trams, in a poisoned gloom
Wrought33, till he crept from a gutted34 mine
Master of half a servile shire,
And left his coal all turned into gold
To a grandson, first of his noble line."
Intermingled with these sounds were others, the jar and clash of gateways35, the dripping and splash[Pg 189]ing of water, the rolling thunder of the ascending36 and descending37 iron parachutes in the shaft, the trampling38 of horses, the distant report of powder-blasts, and the shrill39 jargon40 of human speakers, near, yet only partially41 visible.
"Is it a clear day overhead?" said the black bust42 of one of the miners, with a lamp in its hat!
Just think of it! We had only been divorced from the a?rial blue of a June sky a minute before. Our very horse was so high above us that we could have distinguished43 him only by the aid of a telescope—that is, if the solid ribs44 of the globe were not between us and him.
As soon as we became accustomed to the place, we moved off after the foreman of the mine. We walked through the miry tram-ways under the low, black arches, now stepping aside to let an invisible horse and car, "grating harsh thunder," pass us in the murky45 darkness; now through a door-way, momently closed to keep the foul46 and clear airs separate, until we came to the great furnace of the mine that draws off all the noxious47 vapors48 from this nest of Beelzebub. Then we went to the stables where countless49 horses are stalled—horses that never see the light of day again, or if they do, are struck blind by the apparition50; now in wider galleries,[Pg 190] and new explorations, where we behold51 the busy miners, twinkling like the distant lights of a city, and hear the thunder-burst, as the blast explodes in the murky chasms52. At last, tired, oppressed, and sickened with the vast and horrible prison, for such it seems, we retrace53 our steps, and once more enter the iron parachute. A touch of the magic lever, and again we fly away; but now upwards54, upwards to the glorious blue sky and air of mother earth. A miner with his lamp accompanies us. By its dim light we see how rapidly we spin through the shaft. Our car clashes again at the top, and as we step forth55 into the clear sunshine, we thank God for such a bright and beautiful world up stairs!
"Do you know," said I, "Picton, what we would do if we had such a devil's pit as that in the States?"
"Well?" answered the traveller, interrogatively.
"We would make niggers work it."
"I dare say," replied Picton, drily and satirically; "but, sir, I am proud to say that our government does not tolerate barbarity; to consign56 an inoffensive fellow-creature to such horrible labor19, merely because he is black, is at variance58 with the well-known humanity of the whole British nation, sir."[Pg 191]
"But those miners, Picton, were black as the devil himself."
"The miners," replied Picton, with impressive gravity, "are black, but not negroes."
"Nothing but mere57 white people, Picton?"
"Eh?" said the traveller.
"Only white people, and therefore we need not waste one grain of sympathy over a whole pit full of them."
"Why not?"
"Because they are not niggers, what is the use of wasting sympathy upon a rat-hole full of white British subjects?"
"I tell you what it is," said Picton, "you are getting personal."
We were now rolling past the dingy tenements again. Squalid-looking, care-worn women, grimy children:
"To me there's something touching59, I confess,
In the grave look of early thoughtfulness,
Seen often in some little childish face,
Among the poor;"—
But these children's faces are not such. A child's face—God bless it! should always have a little sunshine in its glance; but these are mere staring faces, without expression, that make you shudder60 and feel[Pg 192] sad. Miners by birth; human moles61 fitted to burrow62 in darkness for a life-time. Is it worth living for? No wonder those swart laborers underground are so grim and taciturn: no wonder there was not a face lighted up by those smoky lamps in the pit, that had one line of human sympathy left in its rigidly63 engraved64 features!
But we must have coal, and we must have cotton. The whole plantations65 of the South barely supply the press with paper; and the messenger of intelligence, the steam-ship, but for coal could not perform its glorious mission. What is to be done, Picton? If every man is willing to give up his morning paper, wear a linen66 shirt, cross the ocean in a clipper-ship, and burn wood in an open fire-place, something might be done.
As Picton's steamer (probably fog-bound) had not yet arrived in Sydney, nor yet indeed the "Balaklava," the traveller determined67 to take a Newfoundland brigantine for St. John's, from which port there are vessels to all parts of the world. After leaving horse and jumper with the inn-keeper, we took a small boat to one of the many queer looking, high-pooped crafts in the harbor, and very soon found ourselves in a tiny cabin, panelled with maple68, in which the captain and some of the men were busy over a pan of savory69 lobscouse, a salt-sea dish of[Pg 193] great reputation and flavor. Picton soon made his agreement with the captain for a four days' sail (or more) across to the neighboring province, and his luggage was to be on board the next morning. Once more we sailed over the bay of Sydney, and regained70 the pleasant shelter of our inn.
"Picton," said I, after a comfortable supper and a pensive71 segar, "we shall soon separate for our respective homes; but before we part, I wish to say to you how much I have enjoyed this brief acquaintance; perhaps we may never meet again, but I trust our short voyage together, will now and then be recalled by you, in whatever part of the world you may chance to be, as it certainly will by me."
The traveller replied by a hearty72, earnest grasp of the hand; and then, after this formal leave-taking, we became suddenly estranged73, as it were, sad, and silent, and shy; the familiar tone of conversation lost its key-note; Picton looked out of the inn window at the luminous74 moon-fog on the bay, and I buried my reflections in an antiquated75 pamphlet of "Household Words." We were soon interrupted by a stranger coming into the parlor76, a chance visitor, another dry, preceese specimen77 of the land of oat-cakes.
After the usual salutations, the conversation[Pg 194] floated easily on, upon indifferent topics, until Picton happened to allude78, casually79, to the general banking80 system of England. This was enough for a text. Our visitor immediately launched forth upon the subject, and gaed us a twa-hours discourse81 on the system of banking in Scotland; wherein the superiority of the method adopted by his countrymen, to wring82 the last drop of interest out a shilling, was pertinaciously83 and dogmatically argued, upon the great groundwork of "the general and aibstract preencepels of feenance!"
It was in vain that the traveller endeavored to silence him by a few flashes of sarcasm84. He might as well have tried to silence a park of artillery85 with a handful of torpedoes86! On and on, with the doggedness of a slow-hound, the Scot pursued the theme, until all other considerations were lost in the one sole idea.
But thus it is always, when you come in contact with people of "aibstract preencepels." All sweet and tender impulses, all generous and noble suggestions, all light and shade, all warmth and color, must give place to these dry husks of reason.
"Confound the Scotch87 interloper," said Picton, after our visitor had retired88, "what business had he to impose upon our good nature, with his threadbare 'aibstract preencepels?' Confound him and[Pg 195] his beggarly high cheek-bones, and his Caledonian pock-pits. I am sorry that I ever came to this part of the world; it has ruined a taste which I had acquired, with much labor, for Scottish poetry; and I shall never see 'Burns's Works' again without a sickening shudder."
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1
dormant
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| adj.暂停活动的；休眠的；潜伏的 | |
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2
brokers
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| n.（股票、外币等）经纪人( broker的名词复数 )；中间人；代理商；（订合同的）中人v.做掮客（或中人等）( broker的第三人称单数 )；作为权力经纪人进行谈判；以中间人等身份安排… | |
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3
wafted
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| v.吹送，飘送，（使）浮动( waft的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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wharfs
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| 码头，停泊处 | |
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profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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6
tavern
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| n.小旅馆，客栈；小酒店 | |
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7
margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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8
dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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9
tenements
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| n.房屋，住户，租房子( tenement的名词复数 ) | |
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10
funereal
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| adj.悲哀的；送葬的 | |
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11
rattle
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| v.飞奔，碰响；激怒；n.碰撞声；拨浪鼓 | |
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12
pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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13
shaft
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| n.(工具的)柄，杆状物 | |
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14
demon
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| n.魔鬼，恶魔 | |
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15
groans
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| n.呻吟，叹息( groan的名词复数 )；呻吟般的声音v.呻吟( groan的第三人称单数 )；发牢骚；抱怨；受苦 | |
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16
shrieks
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| n.尖叫声( shriek的名词复数 )v.尖叫( shriek的第三人称单数 ) | |
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17
bowels
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| n.肠，内脏，内部；肠( bowel的名词复数 )；内部，最深处 | |
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laborers
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| n.体力劳动者，工人( laborer的名词复数 )；（熟练工人的）辅助工 | |
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labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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20
descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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21
vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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22
fathoms
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| 英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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23
spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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24
gust
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| n.阵风，突然一阵（雨、烟等），（感情的）迸发 | |
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25
stifling
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| a.令人窒息的 | |
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26
concussion
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| n.脑震荡；震动 | |
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27
subterranean
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| adj.地下的，地表下的 | |
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cavern
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| n.洞穴，大山洞 | |
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29
laden
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| adj.装满了的；充满了的；负了重担的；苦恼的 | |
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30
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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31
reverberating
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| 回响，回荡( reverberate的现在分词 )； 使反响，使回荡，使反射 | |
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32
aisles
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| n. (席位间的)通道, 侧廊 | |
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33
wrought
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| v.引起；以…原料制作；运转；adj.制造的 | |
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34
gutted
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| adj.容易消化的v.毁坏（建筑物等）的内部( gut的过去式和过去分词 )；取出…的内脏 | |
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35
gateways
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| n.网关( gateway的名词复数 )；门径；方法；大门口 | |
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36
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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37
descending
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| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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38
trampling
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| 踩( trample的现在分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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39
shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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40
jargon
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| n.术语，行话 | |
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41
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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42
bust
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| vt.打破；vi.爆裂；n.半身像；胸部 | |
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43
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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44
ribs
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| n.肋骨( rib的名词复数 )；（船或屋顶等的）肋拱；肋骨状的东西；（织物的）凸条花纹 | |
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45
murky
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| adj.黑暗的，朦胧的；adv.阴暗地，混浊地；n.阴暗；昏暗 | |
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46
foul
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| adj.污秽的；邪恶的；v.弄脏；妨害；犯规；n.犯规 | |
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47
noxious
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| adj.有害的，有毒的；使道德败坏的，讨厌的 | |
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48
vapors
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| n.水汽，水蒸气，无实质之物( vapor的名词复数 )；自夸者；幻想 [药]吸入剂 [古]忧郁（症）v.自夸，（使）蒸发( vapor的第三人称单数 ) | |
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49
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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50
apparition
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| n.幽灵，神奇的现象 | |
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51
behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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52
chasms
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| 裂缝( chasm的名词复数 )； 裂口； 分歧； 差别 | |
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53
retrace
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| v.折回；追溯，探源 | |
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54
upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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55
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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56
consign
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| vt.寄售（货品），托运，交托，委托 | |
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57
mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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58
variance
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| n.矛盾，不同 | |
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59
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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60
shudder
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| v.战粟，震动，剧烈地摇晃；n.战粟，抖动 | |
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61
moles
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| 防波堤( mole的名词复数 )； 鼹鼠； 痣； 间谍 | |
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62
burrow
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| vt.挖掘(洞穴)；钻进；vi.挖洞；翻寻；n.地洞 | |
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63
rigidly
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| adv.刻板地，僵化地 | |
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64
engraved
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| v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的过去式和过去分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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65
plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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66
linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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67
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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68
maple
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| n.槭树，枫树，槭木 | |
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69
savory
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| adj.风味极佳的，可口的，味香的 | |
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70
regained
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| 复得( regain的过去式和过去分词 )； 赢回； 重回； 复至某地 | |
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71
pensive
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| a.沉思的,哀思的,忧沉的 | |
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72
hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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73
estranged
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| adj.疏远的，分离的 | |
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74
luminous
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| adj.发光的，发亮的；光明的；明白易懂的；有启发的 | |
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75
antiquated
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| adj.陈旧的，过时的 | |
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76
parlor
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| n.店铺，营业室；会客室，客厅 | |
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77
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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78
allude
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| v.提及，暗指 | |
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79
casually
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| adv.漠不关心地，无动于衷地，不负责任地 | |
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80
banking
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| n.银行业，银行学，金融业 | |
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81
discourse
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| n.论文，演说；谈话；话语；vi.讲述，著述 | |
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82
wring
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| n.扭绞；v.拧，绞出，扭 | |
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83
pertinaciously
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| adv.坚持地；固执地；坚决地；执拗地 | |
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84
sarcasm
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| n.讥讽，讽刺，嘲弄，反话 （adj.sarcastic） | |
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85
artillery
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| n.(军)火炮，大炮；炮兵(部队) | |
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86
torpedoes
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| 鱼雷( torpedo的名词复数 )； 油井爆破筒； 刺客； 掼炮 | |
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87
scotch
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| n.伤口，刻痕；苏格兰威士忌酒；v.粉碎，消灭，阻止；adj.苏格兰(人)的 | |
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88
retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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