A dewy, spring-like morning is all I remembered of my farewell to Halifax. A very sweet and odorous air as I rode towards the railway station in the funereal4 cab; a morning without fog, a sparkling freshness that twinkled in the leaves and crisped the waters.
So I take leave of thee, quaint5 old city of Chebucto. The words of a familiar ditty, the memory of the unfortunate Miss Bailey, rises upon me as the morning bugle6 sounds—
"A captain bold in Halifax, who lived in country quarters,
Seduced7 a maid, who hung herself next morning in her garters;
His wicked conscience smoted him, he lost his spirits daily,
He took to drinking ratifia, and thought upon Miss Bailey."
While the psychological features of the case[Pg 280] were puzzling his brain and keeping him wide awake—
"The candles blue, at XII. o'clock, began to burn quite paley,
A ghost appeared at his bedside, and said—
behold8, Miss Bailey!!!"
Even such a sprite, so dead in look, so woe-begone, drew Priam's curtain in the dead of night to tell him half his Troy was burned; but this visit was for a different purpose, as we find by the words which the gallant9 Lothario addressed to his victim:
"'You'll find,' says he, 'a five-pound note in my regimental small-clothes;
'T will bribe10 the sexton for your grave,' the ghost then vanished gaily11,
Saying, 'God bless you, wicked Captain Smith, although you've ruined Miss Bailey.'"
There is no end to these legends; the whole province is full of them. The Province Building is stuffed with rich historical manuscripts, that only wait for the antiquarian explorer.[G]
[Pg 281]But now we approach the station of the great Nova Scotia Railway, nine and three-quarter miles in length, that skirts the margin12 of Bed[Pg 282]ford Basin, and ends at the head of that blue sheet of water in the village of Sackville. It is amusing to see the gravity and importance of the conductor, in uniform frock-coat and with crown and V. R. buttons, as he paces up and down[Pg 283] the platform before starting; and the quiet dignity of the sixpenny ticket-office; and the busy air of the freight-master, checking off boxes and bundles for the distant terminus—so distant that it can barely be distinguished14 by the naked eye. But it was a pleasant ride, that by the Basin! Not less pleasant because of the company of an old friend, who, with wife and children, went with me to the end of the iron road. Arrived there, we parted, with many a hearty15 hand-shake, and thence by stage to Windsor, on the river Avon, forty-five miles or so west of Halifax.
My fellow-passenger on the stage-top was a pony16! Yes, a real pony! not bigger, however, than a good sized pointer dog, although his head was of most preposterous17 horse-like length. This equine Tom Thumb, was one of the mustangs, or wild horses of Sable Island, some little account of which here may not be uninteresting. But first let me say, in order not to tax the credulity of my reader too much, that pony did not stand upright upon the roof of the coach, as may have been surmised18, but was very cleverly laid upon his side, with his four legs strapped19 in the form of a saw-buck, precisely20 as butchers tie the legs of calves21 or of sheep together, for transportation in carts to the shambles22, only pony's fetters23 were not so cruel—indeed he seemed[Pg 284] to be quite at his ease—like the member of the foreign legion on the road to Dartmouth.
Now then, pony's birth-place is one of the most interesting upon our coast. Do you remember it, my transatlantic traveller? The little yellow spot that greets you so far out at sea, and bids you welcome to the western hemisphere? I hope you have seen it in fine weather; many a goodly ship has left her bones upon that yellow island in less auspicious24 seasons. The first of these misadventurers was Sir Humphrey Gilbert, who was lost in a storm close by; the memorable25 words with which he hailed his consort26 are now familiar to every reader: "Heaven," said he, "is as near by sea as by land," and so bade the world farewell in the tempest. Legends of wrecks2 of buccaneers, of spectres, multiply as we penetrate27 into the mysterious history of the yellow island. And its present aspect is sufficiently28 tempting29 to the adventurous30, for whom—
"If danger other charms have none,
Then danger's self is lure31 alone."
The following description, from a lecture delivered in Halifax, by Dr. J. Bernard Gilpin, will commend itself to our modern Robinson Crusoes:[Pg 285]
"Should any one be visiting the island now, he might see, about ten miles' distance, looking seaward, half a dozen low, dark hummocks32 on the horizon. As he approaches, they gradually resolve themselves into hills fringed by breakers, and by and by the white sea beach with its continued surf—the sand-hills, part naked, part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves—a house and a barn dot the western extremity—here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs33 of unlucky traders half-buried in the shifting sand. By this time a red ensign is waving at its peak, and from a tall flag-staff and crow's nest erected34 upon the highest hill midway of the island, an answering flag is waving to the wind. Before the anchor is let go, and the cutter is rounding to in five fathoms35 of water, men and horses begin to dot the beach, a life-boat is drawn36 rapidly on a boat-cart to the beach, manned, and fairly breasting the breakers upon the bar. It may have been three long winter months that this boat's crew have had no tidings of the world, or they may have three hundred emigrants37 and wrecked38 crews, waiting to be carried off. The hurried greetings over, news told and newspapers and letters given, the visitor prepares to return with them to the island. Should it be evening, he will see the cutter already under weigh[Pg 286] and standing39 seaward; but, should it be fine weather, plenty of day, and wind right off the shore, even then she lies to the wind anchor apeak, and mainsail hoisted40, ready to run at a moment's notice, so sudden are the shifts of wind, and so hard to claw off from those treacherous41 shores. But the life-boat is now entering the perpetual fringe of surf—a few seals tumble and play in the broken waters, and the stranger draws his breath hard, as the crew bend to their oars42, the helmsman standing high in the pointed43 stern, with loud command and powerful arm keeping her true, the great boat goes riding on the back of a huge wave, and is carried high up on the beach in a mass of struggling water. To spring from their seats into the water, and hold hard the boat, now on the point of being swept back by the receding44 wave, is the work of an instant. Another moment they are left high and dry on the beach, another, and the returning wave and a vigorous run of the crew has borne her out of all harm's way.
"Such is the ceremony of landing at Sable Island nine or ten months out of the year: though there are at times some sweet halcyon45 days when a lad might land in a flat. Dry-shod the visitor picks his way between the thoroughly46 drenched47 crew, picks up a huge scallop or two, admires the[Pg 287] tumbling play of the round-headed seals, and plods48 his way through the deep sand of an opening between the hills, or gulch49 (so called) to the head-quarters establishment. And here, for the last fifty years, a kind welcome has awaited all, be they voluntary idlers or sea-wrecked men. Screened by the sand-hills, here is a well-stocked barn and barnyard, filled with its ordinary inhabitants, sleek50 milch cows and heady bulls, lazy swine, a horse grazing at a tether, with geese and ducks and fowls51 around. Two or three large stores and boat-houses, quarters for the men, the Superintendent's house, blacksmith shop, sailors' home for sea-wrecked men, and oil-house, stand around an irregular square, and surmounted53 by the tall flag-staff and crow's nest on the neighboring hill. So abrupt54 the contrast, so snug55 the scene, if the roar of the ocean were out of his ears, one might fancy himself twenty miles inland.
"Nearly the first thing the visitor does is to mount the flag-staff, and climbing into the crow's nest, scan the scene. The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic waves had bent56 it around, nowhere much above a mile wide, twenty-six miles long, including[Pg 288] the dry bars, and holding a shallow late thirteen miles long in its centre.
"There it all lies spread like a map at his feet—grassy57 hill and sandy valley fading away into the distance. On the foreground the outpost men galloping58 their rough ponies into head-quarters, recalled by the flag flying above his head; the West-end house of refuge, with bread and matches, firewood and kettle, and directions to find water, and head-quarters with flag-staff on the adjoining hill. Every sandy peak or grassy knoll60 with a dead man's name or old ship's tradition—Baker61's Hill, Trott's Cove62, Scotchman's Head, French Gardens—traditionary spot where the poor convicts expiated63 their social crimes—the little burial-ground nestling in the long grass of a high hill, and consecrated64 to the repose65 of many a sea-tossed limb; and two or three miles down the shallow lake, the South-side house and barn, and staff and boats lying on the lake beside the door. Nine miles further down, by the help of a glass, he may view the flag-staff at the foot of the lake, and five miles further the East-end look-out, with its staff and watch-house. Herds66 of wild ponies dot the hills, and black duck and sheldrakes are heading their young broods on the mirror-like ponds. Seals[Pg 289] innumerable are basking68 on the warm sands, or piled like ledges69 of rock along the shores. The Glascow's bow, the Maskonemet's stern, the East Boston's hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fastened Guide are spotting the sands, each with its tale of last adventure, hardships passed, and toil70 endured. The whole picture is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sea-ribbed sand."
The patrol duty of the hardy71 islander is thus described:
"Mounted upon his hardy pony, the solitary72 patrol starts upon his lonely way. He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to look seaward, reaches the West-end bar, speculates upon perchance a broken spar, an empty bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the land-wash—now fords the shallow lake, looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where Baker was drowned; and coming on the breeding-ground of the countless73 birds, his pony's hoof74 with a reckless smash goes crunching75 through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fairly puts his pony to her mettle76 to escape the cloud of angry birds which, arising in countless numbers, dent52 his weather-beaten tarpaulin77 with their sharp bills, and snap[Pg 290] his pony's ears, and confuse him with their sharp, shrill78 cries. Ten minutes more, and he is holding hard to count the seals. There they lie, old ocean flocks, resting their wave-tossed limbs—great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves. He marks them all. The wary79 old male turns his broad moustached nostrils80 to the tainted81 gale82 of man and horse sweeping83 down upon them, and the whole herd67 are simultaneously84 lumbering85 a retreat. And now he goes, plying86 his little short whip, charging the whole herd to cut off their retreat for the pleasure and fun of galloping in and over and amongst fifty great bodies, rolling and tumbling and tossing, and splashing the surf in their awkward endeavors to escape."
And now to return to our pony, who seems to sympathize with his fellow-traveller, for every instant he raises his head as if he would peep into his note-book. Let me quote this of him and of his brethren:
"When the present breed of wild ponies was introduced, there is no record. In an old print, seemingly a hundred years old, they are depicted87 as being lassoed by men in cocked hats and antique habiliments. At present, three or four hundred are[Pg 291] their utmost numbers, and it is curious to observe how in their figures and habits they approach the wild races of Mexico or the Ukraine. They are divided into herds or gangs, each having a separate pasture, and each presided over by an old male, conspicuous88 by the length of his mane, rolling in tangled89 masses over eye and ear down to his fore13 arm. Half his time seems taken up in tossing it from his eyes as he collects his out-lying mares and foals on the approach of strangers, and keeping them well up in a pack boldly faces the enemy whilst they retreat at a gallop59. If pressed, however, he, too, retreats on their rear. He brooks90 no undivided allegiance, and many a fierce battle is waged by the contending chieftains for the honor of the herd. In form they resemble the wild horses of all lands: the large head, thick, shaggy neck of the male, low withers91, paddling gait, and sloping quarters, have all their counterparts in the mustang and the horse of the Ukraine. There seems a remarkable92 tendency in these horses to assume the Isabella colors, the light chestnuts93, and even the piebalds or paint horses of the Indian prairies or the Mexican Savannah. The annual drive or herding94, usually resulting in the whole island being swept from end to end, and a kicking, snorting, half-terrified mass driven into a large[Pg 292] pound, from which two or three dozen are selected, lassoed, and exported to town, affords fine sport, wild riding, and plenty of falls."
Thus much for Sable Island.
"Dark isle95 of mourning! aptly art thou named,
For thou hast been the cause of many a tear;
For deeds of treacherous strife96 too justly famed,
The Atlantic's charnel—desolate and drear;
A thing none love, though wand'ring thousands fear—
If for a moment rest the Muse's wing
Where through the waves thy sandy wastes appear,
'Tis that she may one strain of horror sing,
Wild as the dashing waves that tempests o'er thee fling."[H]
And now pony we must part. Windsor approaches! Yonder among the embowering trees is the residence of Judge Halliburton, the author of "Sam Slick." How I admire him for his hearty hostility97 to republican institutions! It is natural, straightforward98, shrewd, and, no doubt, sincere. At the same time, it affords an example of how much the colonist99 or satellite form of government tends to limit the scope of the mind, which under happier skies and in a wider intelligence might have shone to advantage.
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1
sable
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| n.黑貂；adj.黑色的 | |
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wrecks
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| n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 )；（事故中）遭严重毁坏的汽车（或飞机等）；（身体或精神上）受到严重损伤的人；状况非常糟糕的车辆（或建筑物等）v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 )；使（船舶）失事，使遇难，使下沉 | |
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ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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funereal
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| adj.悲哀的；送葬的 | |
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quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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bugle
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| n.军号，号角，喇叭；v.吹号，吹号召集 | |
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seduced
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| 诱奸( seduce的过去式和过去分词 )； 勾引； 诱使堕落； 使入迷 | |
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behold
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| v.看，注视，看到 | |
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gallant
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| adj.英勇的，豪侠的；(向女人)献殷勤的 | |
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bribe
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| n.贿赂；v.向…行贿，买通 | |
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gaily
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| adv.欢乐地，高兴地 | |
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margin
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| n.页边空白；差额；余地，余裕；边，边缘 | |
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fore
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| adv.在前面；adj.先前的；在前部的；n.前部 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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preposterous
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| adj.荒谬的，可笑的 | |
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surmised
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| v.臆测，推断( surmise的过去式和过去分词 )；揣测；猜想 | |
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strapped
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| adj.用皮带捆住的，用皮带装饰的；身无分文的；缺钱；手头紧v.用皮带捆扎(strap的过去式和过去分词)；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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calves
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| n.(calf的复数)笨拙的男子，腓；腿肚子( calf的名词复数 )；牛犊；腓；小腿肚v.生小牛( calve的第三人称单数 )；（冰川）崩解；生（小牛等），产（犊）；使（冰川）崩解 | |
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shambles
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| n.混乱之处；废墟 | |
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fetters
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| n.脚镣( fetter的名词复数 )；束缚v.给…上脚镣，束缚( fetter的第三人称单数 ) | |
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auspicious
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| adj.吉利的；幸运的，吉兆的 | |
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memorable
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| adj.值得回忆的，难忘的，特别的，显著的 | |
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consort
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| v.相伴；结交 | |
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penetrate
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| v.透(渗)入；刺入，刺穿；洞察，了解 | |
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sufficiently
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| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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tempting
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| a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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lure
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| n.吸引人的东西，诱惑物；vt.引诱，吸引 | |
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hummocks
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| n.小丘，岗( hummock的名词复数 ) | |
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ribs
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| n.肋骨( rib的名词复数 )；（船或屋顶等的）肋拱；肋骨状的东西；（织物的）凸条花纹 | |
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ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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fathoms
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| 英寻( fathom的名词复数 ) | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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emigrants
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| n.（从本国移往他国的）移民( emigrant的名词复数 ) | |
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wrecked
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| adj.失事的，遇难的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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hoisted
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| 把…吊起，升起( hoist的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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receding
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| v.逐渐远离( recede的现在分词 )；向后倾斜；自原处后退或避开别人的注视；尤指问题 | |
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halcyon
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| n.平静的，愉快的 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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drenched
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| adj.湿透的；充满的v.使湿透( drench的过去式和过去分词 )；在某人（某物）上大量使用（某液体） | |
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plods
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| v.沉重缓慢地走（路）( plod的第三人称单数 )；努力从事；沉闷地苦干；缓慢进行（尤指艰难枯燥的工作） | |
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gulch
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| n.深谷，峡谷 | |
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sleek
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| adj.光滑的，井然有序的；v.使光滑，梳拢 | |
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fowls
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| 鸟( fowl的名词复数 )； 禽肉； 既不是这； 非驴非马 | |
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dent
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| n.凹痕，凹坑；初步进展 | |
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surmounted
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| 战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 )； 克服（困难）； 居于…之上； 在…顶上 | |
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abrupt
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| adj.突然的，意外的；唐突的，鲁莽的 | |
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snug
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| adj.温暖舒适的，合身的，安全的；v.使整洁干净，舒适地依靠，紧贴；n.（英）酒吧里的私房 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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galloping
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| adj. 飞驰的, 急性的 动词gallop的现在分词形式 | |
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gallop
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| v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔；飞速发展 | |
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knoll
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| n.小山，小丘 | |
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baker
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| n.面包师 | |
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cove
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| n.小海湾，小峡谷 | |
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expiated
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| v.为（所犯罪过）接受惩罚，赎（罪）( expiate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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consecrated
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| adj.神圣的，被视为神圣的v.把…奉为神圣，给…祝圣( consecrate的过去式和过去分词 )；奉献 | |
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repose
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| v.(使)休息；n.安息 | |
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66
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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herd
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| n.兽群，牧群；vt.使集中，把…赶在一起 | |
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basking
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| v.晒太阳，取暖( bask的现在分词 )；对…感到乐趣；因他人的功绩而出名；仰仗…的余泽 | |
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ledges
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| n.（墙壁，悬崖等）突出的狭长部分( ledge的名词复数 )；（平窄的）壁架；横档；（尤指）窗台 | |
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70
toil
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| vi.辛劳工作，艰难地行动；n.苦工，难事 | |
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hardy
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| adj.勇敢的，果断的，吃苦的；耐寒的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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73
countless
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| adj.无数的，多得不计其数的 | |
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74
hoof
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| n.(马，牛等的)蹄 | |
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75
crunching
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| v.嘎吱嘎吱地咬嚼( crunch的现在分词 )；嘎吱作响；（快速大量地）处理信息；数字捣弄 | |
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mettle
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| n.勇气，精神 | |
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77
tarpaulin
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| n.涂油防水布，防水衣，防水帽 | |
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78
shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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wary
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| adj.谨慎的，机警的，小心的 | |
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80
nostrils
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| 鼻孔( nostril的名词复数 ) | |
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81
tainted
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| adj.腐坏的；污染的；沾污的；感染的v.使变质( taint的过去式和过去分词 )；使污染；败坏；被污染，腐坏，败坏 | |
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82
gale
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| n.大风，强风，一阵闹声（尤指笑声等） | |
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83
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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84
simultaneously
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| adv.同时发生地，同时进行地 | |
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85
lumbering
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| n.采伐林木 | |
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86
plying
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| v.使用（工具）( ply的现在分词 )；经常供应（食物、饮料）；固定往来；经营生意 | |
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depicted
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| 描绘，描画( depict的过去式和过去分词 )； 描述 | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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tangled
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| adj. 纠缠的，紊乱的 动词tangle的过去式和过去分词 | |
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brooks
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| n.小溪( brook的名词复数 ) | |
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91
withers
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| 马肩隆 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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chestnuts
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| n.栗子( chestnut的名词复数 )；栗色；栗树；栗色马 | |
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herding
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| 中畜群 | |
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isle
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| n.小岛，岛 | |
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strife
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| n.争吵，冲突，倾轧，竞争 | |
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hostility
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| n.敌对，敌意；抵制［pl.］交战，战争 | |
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straightforward
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| adj.正直的，坦率的；易懂的，简单的 | |
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colonist
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| n.殖民者，移民 | |
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