The second city, on a blunt promontory between the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus, overlooks the ancient Byzantium, and is composed of three districts,—Galata and Tophanna, on the water and climbing up the hill; and Pera, which crowns the summit. Galata was a commercial settlement of the thirteenth century; Pera is altogether modern.
The third city is Scutari, exactly opposite the mouth of the Golden Horn, and a little north of ancient Chalcedon, which was for over a thousand years the camp of successive besieging9 armies, Georgians, Persians, Saracens, and Turks.
The city of the Crescent, like a veiled beauty of the harem, did not at once disclose to us its charms. It was at six o'clock in the morning on the eleventh day of blooming May, that we landed on the dirty quay10 of Tophanna. The morning was cloudy, cold, misty11, getting its weather from the Black Sea, and during the day rain fell in a very Occidental dreariness12. Through the mist loomed13 the heights of Seraglio Point; and a hundred minaret14 peaks and domes15 appeared to float in the air above the veiled city. Along the floating lower bridge, across the Golden Horn, poured an unceasing procession of spectres; ca飍ues were shooting about in every direction, steamers for the Bosphorus, for Scutari, for the Islands, were momently arriving and departing from their stations below the bridge, and the huge bulk of the Turkish ironclads could be discerned at their anchorage before the palace of Beshiktash. The scene was animated16, but there was not visible as much shipping17 as I had expected to see in this great port.
The customs' official on the quay was of a very inquisitive18 turn of mind, but we could excuse him on the ground of his age and ignorance, for he was evidently endeavoring to repair the neglected opportunities of his youth. Our large luggage had gone to the custom-house in charge of Abd-el-Atti, who has a genius for free-trade, and only our small parcels and hand-bags were at the mercy of the inspector19 on the quay. But he insisted upon opening every bag and investigating every article of the toilet and garment of the night; he even ripped open a feather pillow which one of the ladies carried with her, and neither the rain on the open dock nor our respectable appearance saved our effects from his most searching attentions. The discoveries of General di Ces-nola and the interest that Europeans take in antiquities21 have recently convinced the Turks that these relics23 must have some value, and an order had been issued to seize and confiscate24 all curiosities of this sort. I trembled, therefore, when the inspector got his hands upon a baby's nursing-bottle, which I had brought from Cyprus, where it had been used by some Phoenician baby probably three thousand years ago. The fellow turned it round and regarded it with serious ignorance and doubt.
"What is that?" he asked Achmed.
"O, that's nothing but a piece of pottery25, something for a child without his mother, I think,—it is nothing, not worth two paras."
The confiscator26 of antiquities evidently had not the slightest knowledge of his business; he hesitated, but Achmed's perfect indifference27 of manner determined28 him, and he slowly put the precious relic22 back into the box. The inspector parted from us with regret, but we left him to the enjoyment29 of a virtue30 unassailed by the least bribe,—an unusual, and, I imagine, an unwelcome possession in this region.
Donkeys were not to be had, nor carriages, and we climbed on foot the very steep hill to the hotel in Pera; ascending32 roughly paved, crooked33 streets, lined with rickety houses, and occasionally mounting stairs for a mile through a quarter that has the shabbiness but not the picturesqueness34 of the Orient. A squad36 of porters seized our luggage and bore it before us. The porters are the beasts of burden, and most of them wear heavy saddles, upon which boxes and trunks can be strapped37. No drays were visible. Heavy burdens, hogsheads, barrels, and cases of goods were borne between two long stout38 poles carried by four athletic39 men; as they move along the street, staggering under the heavy load, everybody is obliged, precipitately40, to make way for them, for their impetus41 is such that they cannot check their career. We see these gigantic fellows at every street-corner, with their long poles, waiting for a job. Sedan-chairs, which were formerly42 in much request, are gradually disappearing, though there is nothing at present to exactly take the place of these lumbering43 conveyances44. Carriages increase every year, but they are expensive, and they can only ascend31 the height of Pera by a long circuit. The place of the sedan and the carriage is, however, to some extent supplied by a railway in Galata, the cars of which are drawn45 up by a stationary46 engine. And on each side of the Golden Horn is a horse-railway, running wherever the ground is practicable.
To one coming from the West, I suppose that Constantinople would present a very mixed and bizarre appearance, and that he would be impressed by the silence of the busiest streets, in which the noise of wheels and the hum of a Western capital is wanting. But to one coming from the East, Galata and Pera seem a rather vulgarized European town. The Frank dress predominates, although it is relieved by the red fez, which the Turks generally and many Europeans wear. Variety enough there is in costumes, but the Grecian, the Bulgarian, the Albanian, etc., have taken the place of the purely47 Oriental; and the traveller in the Turkish capital to-day beholds48 not only the conflux of Asia and Europe, but the transition, in buildings, in apparel, in manners, to modern fashions. Few veiled women are seen, and they wear a white strip of gauze which conceals49 nothing. The street hawkers, the sellers of sweets, of sponges, and of cakes, are not more peculiar50 in their cries than those of London and Paris.
When we had climbed the hill, we came into the long main street of Pera, the street of the chief shops, the hotels and foreign embassies, a quarter of the city which has been burned over as often as San Francisco, and is now built up substantially with stone and brick, and contains very little to interest the seeker of novelty. After we had secured rooms, and breakfasted, at the hotel Byzance, we descended51 the hill again to the water, and crossed the long, floating bridge to Stamboul. This bridge is a very good symbol of the Sultan's Empire; its wooden upper works are decayed, its whole structure is rickety, the floats that support it are unevenly52 sunken, so that the bridge is a succession of swells53 and hollows; it is crowded by opposing streams of the most incongruous people, foot and horse jumbled55 together; it is encumbered56 by venders of eatables and auctioneers of cheap Wares57, and one has to pay toll58 to cross it. But it is a microcosm of the world. In an hour one may see pass there every nationality, adventurers from every clime, traders, priests, sailors, soldiers, fortune-hunters of Europe, rude peasants of the provinces, sleek59 merchants of the Orient, darwishes, furtive60-eyed Jews; here is a Circassian beauty seeking a lover through the carriage window; here a Turkish grandee61 on a prancing62, richly caparisoned horse; here moves a squad of black soldiers, and now the bridge shakes under the weight of a train of flying artillery63.
The water is alive with the ticklish64 ca飍ues. The caique is a long narrow boat, on the model of the Indian birch-bark, canoe, and as thin and light on the water; the passenger, if he accomplishes the feat20 of getting into one without overturning it, sits upon the bottom, careful not to wink65 and upset it; the oars66 have a heavy swell54 near the handle, to counterbalance the weight of the long blade, and the craft skims the water with swiftness and a most agreeable motion. The ca飍ues are as numerous on the water as the yellow, mangy dogs on shore, and the two are the most characteristic things in Constantinople.
We spent a good part of the day in wandering about the bazaars68 of Stamboul, and we need not repeat what has been heretofore said of these peculiar shops. During our stay in the city we very thoroughly69 explored them, and visited most of the great khans, where are to be found the silks of Broussa, of Beyrout and Damascus, the rugs of Persia, the carpets of Asia Minor70, the arms and the cunning work in gold, silver, and jewels gathered from every region between Ispahan and Darfour. We found the bazaars extensive, well filled and dear, at least the asking price was enormous, and we wanted the time and patience which are needed for the slow siege of reducing the merchants to decent, terms. The bazaars are solidly roofed arcades71, at once more cleanly and less picturesque35 than those of Cairo, and not so Oriental or attractive. Book-stalls, which are infrequent in Cairo, abound72 here; and the long arcades lined with cases of glittering gems73, enormous pearls, sparkling diamonds, emeralds fit for the Pope's finger, and every gold and silver temptation, exceed anything else in the East in magnificence. And yet they have a certain modern air, and you do not expect to find in them those quaint74 and fascinating antique patterns of goldsmiths' work, the inherited skill of the smiths of the Pharaohs, which draw you into the dingy75 recesses76 of the Copt artificers in the city of the Nile.
From the Valideh Khan we ascended77 to the public square, where stands the Seraskier's Eire-tower; a paved, open place, surrounded by government buildings of considerable architectural pretensions78, and dedicated79, I should say, to drumming, to the shifting about of squads80 of soldiers, and the cantering hither and thither81 of Turkish beys. Near it is the old mosque82 of Sultan Beyezid II., which, with its magnificent arabesque83 gates, makes a fine external impression. The outer court is surrounded by a cloister84 with columns of verd-antique and porphyry, enclosing a fountain and three stately, venerable, trees. The trees and the arcades are alive with doves, and, as we entered, more than a thousand flew towards us in a cloud, with a great rustling85 and cooing. They are protected as an almost sacred appendage86 of the mosque, and are said to be bred from a single pair which the Sultan bought of a poor woman and presented to the house he had built, three centuries and a half ago. This mosque has also another claim to the gratitude87 of animals; for all the dogs of Stamboul, none of whom have any home but the street, nor any other owner than the Prophet, resort here every Friday, as regularly, if not as piously88, as the Sultan goes to pray, and receive their weekly bread.
Near this mosque are lines of booths and open-air shops, which had a fascination89 for me as long as I remained in the city. They extend from the trees in the place of the mosque down through lanes to the bazaars. The keepers of them were typical Orientals, honest Jews, honest Moslems, withered91 and one-eyed waiters on Providence92 and a good bargain, suave93, gracious, patient, gowned and turbaned, sitting cross-legged behind their trays and showcases. These are the dealers94 in stones, both precious and common, in old and new ornaments95, and the thousand cheap adornments in glass and metal which the humbler classes love. Here are heaps of blood-stones, of carnelians, of agates96, of jasper, of onyx, dishes of turquoise97, strings98 of doubtful pearls, barbarous rings and brooches, charms and amulets,—a feast of color for the eye, and a sight to kindle100 the imagination. For these bawbles came out of the recesses of the Orient, were gathered by wild tribes in remote deserts, and transported by caravan101 to this common mart. These dealers buy of the Persian merchants, and of adventurous102 Jew travellers who range all the deserts from Teheran to Upper Nubia in search of these shining stones. Some of the turquoises103 are rudely set in silver rings, but most of them are merely glued to the end of little sticks; these generally are the refuse of the trade, for the finer stones go to the great jewellers in the bazaar67, or to the Western markets. A large and perfect turquoise of good color is very rare, and commands a large price; but the cunning workmen of Persia have a method of at once concealing104 the defects of a good-sized turquoise which has the true color, and at the same time enhancing its value, by engraving105 upon it some sentence from the Koran, or some word which is a charm against the evil eye; the skill of the engraver106 is shown in fitting his letters and flourishes to the flaws in the surface of the stone. To further hide any appearance of imperfection, the engraved107 lines are often gilded108. With a venerable Moslem90, who sat day after day under a sycamore-tree, I had great content, and we both enjoyed the pleasure of endless bargaining without cheating each other, for except in some trifles we never came to an exact agreement. He was always promising109 me the most wonderful things for the next day, which he would procure110 from a mysterious Jew friend who carried on a clandestine111 commerce with some Bedawee in Arabia. When I was seated, he would pull from his bosom112 a knotted silk handkerchief, and, carefully untying113 it, produce a talisman114, presenting it between his thumb and finger, with a lift of the eyebrows115 and a cluck of the tongue that expressed the rapture116 I would feel at the sight of it. To be sure, I found it a turquoise set in rude silver, faded to a sickly green, and not worth sixpence; but I handed it back with a sigh that such a jewel was beyond my means, and intimated that something less costly117, and of a blue color, would suit me as well. We were neither of us deceived, while we maintained the courtesies of commercial intercourse118. Sometimes he would produce from his bosom an emerald of real value or an opal of lovely hues119, and occasionally a stone in some peculiar setting which I had admired the day before in the jewelry120 bazaar; for these trinkets, upon which the eye of the traveller has been seen longingly121 to rest, are shifted about among this mysterious fraternity to meet him again.
I suppose it was known all over Stamboul that a Prank122 had been looking for a Persian amulet99. As long as I sat with my friend, I never saw him actually sell anything, but he seemed to be the centre of mysterious transactions; furtive traders continually came to him to borrow or return a jewel, or to exchange a handful of trumpery123. Delusive124 old man! I had no confidence in you, but I would go far to pass another day in your tranquil125 society. How much more agreeable you were than the young Nubian at an opposite stand, who repelled126 purchasers by his supreme127 indifference, and met all my feeble advances with the toss of the head and the cluck in the left cheek, which is the peremptory128 "no" in Nubia.
In this quarter are workers in shell and ivory, the makers129 of spoons of tortoise-shell with handles of ivory and coral, the fabricators of combs, dealers in books, and a long street of little shops devoted130 to the engraving of seals. To wander about among these craftsmen131 is one of the chief pleasures of the traveller. Vast as Stamboul is, if you remove from it the mosques132 and nests of bazaars, it would not be worth a visit.
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1
promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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extremity
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| n.末端，尽头；尽力；终极；极度 | |
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spartans
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| n.斯巴达（spartan的复数形式） | |
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conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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6
barbarians
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| n.野蛮人( barbarian的名词复数 )；外国人；粗野的人；无教养的人 | |
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battered
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| adj.磨损的；v.连续猛击；磨损 | |
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crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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besieging
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| 包围，围困，围攻( besiege的现在分词 ) | |
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quay
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| n.码头，靠岸处 | |
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misty
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| adj.雾蒙蒙的，有雾的 | |
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dreariness
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| 沉寂，可怕，凄凉 | |
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loomed
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| v.隐约出现，阴森地逼近( loom的过去式和过去分词 )；隐约出现，阴森地逼近 | |
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14
minaret
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| n.（回教寺院的）尖塔 | |
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domes
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| n.圆屋顶( dome的名词复数 )；像圆屋顶一样的东西；圆顶体育场 | |
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animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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inquisitive
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| adj.求知欲强的，好奇的，好寻根究底的 | |
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inspector
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| n.检查员，监察员，视察员 | |
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feat
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| n.功绩；武艺，技艺；adj.灵巧的，漂亮的，合适的 | |
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antiquities
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| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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relic
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| n.神圣的遗物，遗迹，纪念物 | |
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relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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confiscate
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| v.没收(私人财产)，把…充公 | |
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pottery
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| n.陶器，陶器场 | |
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confiscator
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| 没收，充公 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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virtue
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| n.德行，美德；贞操；优点；功效，效力 | |
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31
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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crooked
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| adj.弯曲的；不诚实的，狡猾的，不正当的 | |
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picturesqueness
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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squad
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| n.班，小队，小团体；vt.把…编成班或小组 | |
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strapped
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| adj.用皮带捆住的，用皮带装饰的；身无分文的；缺钱；手头紧v.用皮带捆扎(strap的过去式和过去分词)；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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athletic
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| adj.擅长运动的，强健的；活跃的，体格健壮的 | |
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precipitately
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| adv.猛进地 | |
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impetus
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| n.推动，促进，刺激；推动力 | |
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formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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lumbering
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| n.采伐林木 | |
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conveyances
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| n.传送( conveyance的名词复数 )；运送；表达；运输工具 | |
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drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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stationary
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| adj.固定的，静止不动的 | |
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purely
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| adv.纯粹地，完全地 | |
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48
beholds
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| v.看，注视( behold的第三人称单数 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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conceals
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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descended
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| a.为...后裔的，出身于...的 | |
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unevenly
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| adv.不均匀的 | |
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swells
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| 增强( swell的第三人称单数 )； 肿胀； （使）凸出； 充满（激情） | |
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swell
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| vi.膨胀，肿胀；增长，增强 | |
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jumbled
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| adj.混乱的；杂乱的 | |
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encumbered
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| v.妨碍，阻碍，拖累( encumber的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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wares
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| n. 货物, 商品 | |
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toll
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| n.过路(桥)费；损失，伤亡人数；v.敲(钟) | |
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sleek
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| adj.光滑的，井然有序的；v.使光滑，梳拢 | |
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furtive
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| adj.鬼鬼崇崇的，偷偷摸摸的 | |
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grandee
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| n.贵族；大公 | |
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prancing
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| v.（马）腾跃( prance的现在分词 ) | |
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artillery
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| n.(军)火炮，大炮；炮兵(部队) | |
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ticklish
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| adj.怕痒的；问题棘手的；adv.怕痒地；n.怕痒，小心处理 | |
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wink
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| n.眨眼，使眼色，瞬间；v.眨眼，使眼色，闪烁 | |
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oars
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| n.桨，橹( oar的名词复数 )；划手v.划（行）( oar的第三人称单数 ) | |
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bazaar
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| n.集市，商店集中区 | |
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bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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arcades
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| n.商场( arcade的名词复数 )；拱形走道（两旁有商店或娱乐设施）；连拱廊；拱形建筑物 | |
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72
abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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73
gems
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| growth； economy； management； and customer satisfaction 增长 | |
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74
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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76
recesses
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| n.壁凹( recess的名词复数 )；（工作或业务活动的）中止或暂停期间；学校的课间休息；某物内部的凹形空间v.把某物放在墙壁的凹处( recess的第三人称单数 )；将（墙）做成凹形，在（墙）上做壁龛；休息，休会，休庭 | |
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77
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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pretensions
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| 自称( pretension的名词复数 )； 自命不凡； 要求； 权力 | |
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79
dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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80
squads
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| n.（军队中的）班( squad的名词复数 )；（暗杀）小组；体育运动的运动（代表）队；（对付某类犯罪活动的）警察队伍 | |
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81
thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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82
mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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83
arabesque
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| n.阿拉伯式花饰；adj.阿拉伯式图案的 | |
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84
cloister
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| n.修道院；v.隐退，使与世隔绝 | |
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85
rustling
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| n. 瑟瑟声，沙沙声 adj. 发沙沙声的 | |
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appendage
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| n.附加物 | |
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87
gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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88
piously
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| adv.虔诚地 | |
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89
fascination
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| n.令人着迷的事物，魅力，迷恋 | |
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90
Moslem
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| n.回教徒，穆罕默德信徒；adj.回教徒的，回教的 | |
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withered
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| adj. 枯萎的，干瘪的，（人身体的部分器官）因病萎缩的或未发育良好的 动词wither的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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suave
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| adj.温和的；柔和的；文雅的 | |
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dealers
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| n.商人( dealer的名词复数 )；贩毒者；毒品贩子；发牌者 | |
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95
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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96
agates
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| n.玛瑙( agate的名词复数 )；玛瑙制（或装有玛瑙的）工具； （小孩玩的）玛瑙纹玩具弹子；5。5磅铅字 | |
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97
turquoise
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| n.绿宝石；adj.蓝绿色的 | |
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98
strings
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| n.弦 | |
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99
amulet
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| n.护身符 | |
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100
kindle
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| v.点燃，着火 | |
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101
caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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103
turquoises
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| n.绿松石( turquoise的名词复数 )；青绿色 | |
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104
concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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engraving
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| n.版画；雕刻（作品）；雕刻艺术；镌版术v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的现在分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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engraver
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| n.雕刻师，雕工 | |
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107
engraved
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| v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的过去式和过去分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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108
gilded
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| a.镀金的，富有的 | |
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109
promising
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| adj.有希望的，有前途的 | |
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110
procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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111
clandestine
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| adj.秘密的，暗中从事的 | |
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112
bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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113
untying
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| untie的现在分词 | |
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114
talisman
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| n.避邪物，护身符 | |
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115
eyebrows
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| 眉毛( eyebrow的名词复数 ) | |
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116
rapture
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| n.狂喜；全神贯注；着迷；v.使狂喜 | |
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117
costly
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| adj.昂贵的，价值高的，豪华的 | |
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118
intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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119
hues
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| 色彩( hue的名词复数 )； 色调； 信仰； 观点 | |
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120
jewelry
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| n.（jewllery）（总称）珠宝 | |
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121
longingly
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| adv. 渴望地 热望地 | |
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122
prank
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| n.开玩笑，恶作剧；v.装饰；打扮；炫耀自己 | |
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123
trumpery
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| n.无价值的杂物；adj.（物品）中看不中用的 | |
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124
delusive
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| adj.欺骗的，妄想的 | |
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125
tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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126
repelled
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| v.击退( repel的过去式和过去分词 )；使厌恶；排斥；推开 | |
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127
supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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128
peremptory
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| adj.紧急的，专横的，断然的 | |
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129
makers
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| n.制造者，制造商（maker的复数形式） | |
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130
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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131
craftsmen
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| n. 技工 | |
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132
mosques
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| 清真寺； 伊斯兰教寺院，清真寺； 清真寺，伊斯兰教寺院( mosque的名词复数 ) | |
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