In the morning the north-wind arose,—it seems to blow constantly from Boeotia at this time of the year,—but the day was bright and sparkling, and we took carriage for Eleusis. It might have been such a morning—for the ancient Athenians always anticipated the dawn in their festivals—that the Panathenaic processions moved along this very Via Sacra to celebrate the Mysteries of Ceres at Eleusis. All the hills stood in clear outline,—long Pentelicus and the wavy5 lines of Parnes and Corydallus; we drove over the lovely and fertile plain, amid the olive-orchards of the Kephissus, and up the stony6 slope to the narrowing Pass of Daphne, a defile7 in Mt. 苂aleos; but we sought in vain the laurel grove8, or a single specimen9 of that tree whose twisted trunk and outstretched arms express the struggle of vanishing humanity. Passing on our right the Chapel10 of St. Elias, on a commanding eminence11, and traversing the level plateau of the rocky gorge12, we alighted at the Monastery13 of Daphne, whose half-ruined cloister14 and chapel occupy the site of a temple of Apollo. We sat for half an hour in its quiet, walled churchyard, carpeted with poppies and tender flowers of spring, amid the remains15 of old columns and fragments of white marble, sparkling amid the green grass and blue violets, and looked upon the blue bay of Eleusis and Salamis, and the heights of Megara beyond. Surely nature has a tenderness for such a spot; and I fancied that even the old dame16 who unlocked for us the chapel and its cheap treasures showed us with some interest, in a carving17 here and a capital there, the relics18 of a former religion, and perhaps mingled19 with her adoration20 of the Virgin21 and the bambino a lurking22 regard for Venus and Apollo. A mile beyond, at the foot of a rocky precipice23, are pointed24 out the foundations of a temple of Venus, where the handbook assured us doves had been found carved in white marble; none were left, however, for us, and we contented25 ourselves with reading on the rock Phile Aphrodite, and making a vain effort to recall life to this sterile26 region.
Enchanting27 was the view as we drove down the opening pass to the bay, which spreads out a broad sheet, completely landlocked by the irregular bulk of Salamis Island. When we emerged through the defile we turned away from the narrow strait where the battle was fought, and from the "rocky brow" on which Xerxes sat, a crowned spectator of his ruin, and swept around the circular shore, past the Rheiti, or salt-springs,—clear, greenish pools,—and over the level Thriasian Plain. The bay of Eleusis, guarded by the lofty amphitheatre of mountains, the curving sweep of 苂aleos and Kith鎟on, and by Salamis, is like a lovely lake, and if anywhere on earth there could be peace, you would say it would be on its sunny and secluded28 shores. Salamis appears only a bare and rocky island, but the vine still flourishes in the scant29 soil, and from its wild-flowers the descendants of the Attic31 bees make honey as famous as that of two thousand years ago.
Across the bay, upon a jutting32 rocky point, above which rises the crown of its Acropolis, lies the straggling, miserable33 village of Eleusis. Our first note of approach to it was an ancient pavement, and a few indistinguishable fragments of walls and columns. In a shallow stream which ran over the stones the women of the town were washing clothes; and throngs34 of girls were filling their pails of brass35 at an old well, as of old at the same place did the daughters of Keleos. Shriller tones and laughter mingled with their incessant36 chatter37 as we approached, and we thought,—perhaps it was imagination,—a little wild defiance38 and dislike. I had noticed already in Athens, and again here, the extraordinary rapidity with which the Greeks in conversation exchange words; I think they are the fastest talkers in the world. And the Greek has a hard, sharp, ringing, metallic39 sound; it is staccato. You can see how easily Aristophanes imitated the brittle-brattle of frogs. I have heard two women whose rapid, incessant cackle sounded exactly like the conversation of hens. The sculptor40 need not go further than these nut-brown maids for classic forms; the rounded limbs, the generous bust41, the symmetrical waist, which fashion has not made an hour-glass to mark the flight of time and health. The mothers of heroes were of this mould; although I will not say that some of them were not a trifle stout42 for grace, and that their well-formed faces would not have been improved by the interior light of a little culture. Their simple dress was a white, short chemise, that left the legs bare, a heavy and worked tunic43, like that worn by men, and a colored kerchief tied about the head. Many of the men of the village wore the fustanella and the full Albanian costume.
The Temple of Ceres lies at the foot of the hill; only a little portion of its vast extent has been relieved of the superincumbent, accumulated soil, and in fact its excavation44 is difficult, because the village is built over the greater part of it. What we saw was only a confused heap of marble, some pieces finely carved, arches, capitals, and shattered columns. The Greek government, which is earnestly caring for the remains of antiquity45 and diligently46 collecting everything for the National Museum, down to broken toes and fingers, has stationed a keeper over the ruins; and he showed us, in a wooden shanty47, the interesting fragments of statues which had been found in the excavation. I coveted48 a little hand, plump, with tapering49 fingers, which the conservator permitted us to hold,—a slight but a most suggestive memento50 of the breeding and beauty of the lady who was the sculptor's model; and it did not so much seem a dead hand stretched out to us from the past, as a living thing which returned our furtive51 pressure.
We climbed up the hill where the fortress52 of the Acropolis stood, and where there is now a little chapel. Every Grecian city seems to have had its Acropolis, the first nucleus53 of the rude tribe which it fortified54 against incursion, and the subsequent site of temples to the gods. The traveller will find these steep hills, rising out of plains, everywhere from Ephesus to Argos, and will almost conclude that Nature had consciously adapted herself to the wants of the aboriginal55 occupants. It is well worth ascending57 this summit to get the fine view of plain and bay, of Mt. Kerata and its double peaks, and the road that pierces the pass of Kith鎟on, and leads to the field of Plat鎍 and the remains of Thebes.
In a little wine-shop, near the ruins, protected from the wind and the importunate58 swarms59 of children, we ate our lunch, and tried to impress ourselves with the knowledge that 苨chylus was born in Eleusis; and to imagine the nature of the Eleusinian mysteries, the concealed60 representations by which the ancients attempted to symbolize61, in the myths of Ceres and Proserpine, the primal62 forces of nature, perhaps the dim suggestions of immortality63,—a secret not to be shared by the vulgar,—borrowed from the deep wisdom of the Egyptians.
The children of Eleusis deserve more space than I can afford them, since they devoted65 their entire time to our annoyance66. They are handsome rascals67, and there were enough of them, if they had been sufficiently68 clothed, to form a large Sunday school. When we sat down in the ruins and tried to meditate69 on Ceres, they swarmed70 about us, capering71 and yelling incessantly72, and when I made a charge upon them they scattered73 over the rocks and saluted74 us with stones. But I find that at this distance I have nothing against them; I recall only their beauty and vivacity75, and if they were the worst children that ever tormented76 travellers, I reflect, yes, but they were Greeks, and the gods loved their grandmothers. One slender, liquid-eyed, slim-shanked girl offered me a silver coin. I saw that it was a beautiful Athenian piece of the time of Pericles, and after some bargaining I bought it of her for a reasonable price. But as we moved away to our carriage, I was followed by the men and women of the settlement, who demanded it back. They looked murder and talked Greek. I inquired how much they wanted. Fifty francs! But that is twice as much as it is worth in Athens; and the coin was surrendered. All through the country, the peasants have a most exaggerated notion of the value of anything antique.
We returned through the pass of Daphne and by the site of the academic grove of Plato, though olive-groves77 and gardens of pomegranates in scarlet78 bloom, quinces, roses, and jasmines, the air sweet and delightful79. Perhaps nowhere else can the traveller so enter into the pure spirit of Attic thought and feeling as among these scattered remains that scholars have agreed to call the ruins of Plato's Academe. We turned through a lane into the garden of a farm-house, watered by a branch rivulet80 of the Kephissus. What we saw was not much,—some marble columns under a lovely cypress-grove, some fragments of antique carving built into a wall; but we saw it as it were privately81 and with a feeling of the presence of the mighty82 shade. And then, under a row of young plane-trees, by the meagre stream, we reclined on ripe wheat-straw, in full sight of the Acropolis,—perhaps the most poetic83 view of that magnetic hill. So Plato saw it as he strolled along this bank and listened to the wisdom of his master, Socrates, or, pacing the colonnade84 of the Academe, meditated85 the republic. Here indeed Aristotle, who was born the year that Plato died, may have lain and woven that subtle web of metaphysics which no subsequent system of thought or religion has been able to disregard. The centuries-old wind blew strong and fresh through the trees, and the scent86 of flowers and odorous shrubs87, the murmur88 of the leaves, the unchanged blue vault89 of heaven, the near hill of the sacred Colonus, celebrated90 by Sophocles as the scene of the death of Odipus, all conspired91 to flood us with the poetic past. What intimations of immortality do we need, since the spell of genius is so deathless?
After dinner we laboriously92, by a zigzag93 path, climbed the sharp cone94 of Lycabettus, whose six hundred and fifty feet of height commands the whole region. The rock summit has just room enough for a tiny chapel, called of St. George, and a narrow platform in front, where we sat in the shelter of the building and feasted upon the prospect95. At sunset it is a marvellous view,—all Athens and its plain, the bays, Salamis and the strait of the battle, Acro-Corinth; Megara, Hymettus, Pentelicus, Kith鎟on.
When, in descending96, we had nearly reached the foot on the west side, we heard the violent ringing of a bell high above us, and, turning about, saw what seemed to be a chapel under the northwest edge of the rock upon which we had lately stood. Bandits in laced leggings and embroidered97 jackets, chattering98 girls in short skirts and gay kerchiefs, were descending the wandering path, and the clamor of the bell piqued99 our curiosity to turn and ascend56. When we reached our goal, the affair seemed to be pretty much all bell, and nobody but a boy in the lusty exuberance100 of youth could have made so much noise by the swinging of a single clapper. In a niche101 or rather cleft102 in the rock was a pent-roofed bell-tower, and a boy, whose piety103 seemed inspired by the Devil, was hauling the rope and sending the sonorous104 metal over and over on its axis105. In front of the bell is a narrow terrace, sufficient, however, to support three fig-trees, under which were tables and benches, and upon the low terrace-wall were planted half a dozen large and differently colored national banners. A hole in the rock was utilized106 as a fireplace, and from a pot over the coals came the fumes107 of coffee. Upon this perch108 of a terrace people sat sipping109 coffee and looking down upon the city, whose evening lights were just beginning to twinkle here and there. Behind the belfry is a chapel, perhaps ten feet by twelve, partly a natural grotto110 and partly built of rough stones; it was brilliantly lighted with tapers111, and hung with quaint112 pictures. At the entrance, which is a door cut in the rock, stood a Greek priest and an official in uniform selling wax-tapers, and raking in the leptas of the devout113. We threw down some coppers114, declined the tapers, and walked in. The adytum of the priest was wholly in the solid rock. There seemed to be no service; but the women and children stood and crossed themselves, and passionately115 kissed the poor pictures on the walls. Yet there was nothing exclusive or pharisaic in the worshippers, for priest and people showed us friendly faces, and cordially returned our greetings. The whole rock quivered with the clang of the bell, for the boy at the rope leaped at his task, and with ever-increasing fury summoned the sinful world below to prayer. Young ladies with their gallants came and went; and whenever there was any slacking of stragglers up the hillside the bell clamored more importunately116.
As dusk crept on, torches were set along the wall of the terrace, and as we went down the hill they shone on the red and blue flags and the white belfry, and illuminated117 the black mass of overhanging rock with a red glow. There is time for religion in out-of-the-way places here, and it is rendered picturesque118, and even easy and enjoyable, by the aid of coffee and charming scenery. When we reached the level of the town, the lights still glowed high up in the recess119 of the rocks, girls were laughing and chattering as they stumbled down the steep, and the wild bell still rang. How easy it is to be good in Greece!
One day we stole a march on Marathon, and shared the glory of those who say they have seen it, without incurring120 the fatigue121 of a journey there. We ascended122 Mt. Pentelicus. Hymettus and Pentelicus are about the same height,—thirty-five hundred feet,—but the latter, ten miles to the northeast of Athens, commands every foot of the Attic territory; if one should sit on its summit and read a history of the little state, he would need no map. We were away at half past five in the morning, in order to anticipate if possible the rising of the daily wind. As we ascended, we had on our left, at the foot of the mountain, the village of Kephisia, now, as in the days of Herodes Atticus, the summer resort of wealthy Athenians, who find in its fountains, the sources of the Kephissus, and in its groves relief from the heat and glare of the scorched123 Athenian plain. Half-way we halted at a monastery, left our carriage, and the ladies mounted horses. There is a handsome church here, and the situation is picturesque and commands a wide view of the plain and the rugged124 north slope of Hymettus, but I could not learn that the monastery was in an active state; it is only a hive of drones which consumes the honey produced by the working-bees from the wild thyme of the neighboring mountain. The place, however, is a great resort of parties of pleasure, who picnic under the grove of magnificent forest-trees, and once a year the king and queen come hither to see the youths and maidens125 dance on the greensward.
Up to the highest quarries126 the road is steep, and strewn with broken marble, and after that there is an hour's scramble127 through bushes and over a rocky path. We rested in a large grotto near the principal of the ancient quarries; it was the sleeping-place of the workmen, subsequently a Christian128 church, and then, and not long ago, a haunt and home of brigands129. Here we found a party of four fellows, half clad in sheep-skins, playing cards, who seemed to be waiting our arrival; but they were entirely130 civil, and I presume were only shepherds, whatever they may have been formerly131. From these quarries was hewn the marble for the Temple of Theseus, the Parthenon, the Propyl鎍, the theatres, and other public buildings, to which age has now given a soft and creamy tone; the Pentelic marble must have been too brilliant for the eye, and its dazzling lustre132 was no doubt softened133 by the judicious134 use of color. Fragments which we broke off had the sparkle and crystalline grain of loaf-sugar, and if they were placed upon the table one would unhesitatingly take them to sweeten his tea. The whole mountain-side is overgrown with laurel, and we found wild-flowers all the way to the summit. Amid the rocks of the higher slopes, little shepherd-boys, carrying the traditional crooks135, were guarding flocks of black and white goats, and, invariably as we passed, these animals scampered136 off and perched themselves upon sharp rocks in a photographic pose.
Early as we were, the wind had risen before us, and when we reached the bare back of the summit it blew so strongly that we could with difficulty keep our feet, and gladly took refuge in a sort of stone corral, which had been a camp and lookout137 of brigands. From this commanding point they spied both their victims and pursuers. Our guide went into the details of the capture of the party of Englishmen who spent a night here, and pointed out to us the several hiding-places in the surrounding country to which they were successively dragged. But my attention was not upon this exploit. We looked almost directly down upon Marathon. There is the bay and the curving sandy shore where the Persian galleys139 landed; here upon a spur, jutting out from the hill, the Athenians formed before, they encountered the host in the plain, and there—alas! it was hidden by a hill—is the mound140 where the one hundred and ninety-two Athenian dead are buried. It is only a small field, perhaps six miles along the shore and a mile and a half deep, and there is a considerable marsh141 on the north and a small one at the south end. The victory at so little cost, of ten thousand over a hundred thousand, is partially142 explained by the nature of the ground; the Persians had not room enough to manouvre, and must have been thrown into confusion on the skirts of the northern swamp, and if over six thousand of them were slain143, they must have been killed on the shore in the panic of their embarkation144. But still the shore is broad, level, and firm, and the Greeks must have been convinced that the gods themselves terrified the hearts of the barbarians145, and enabled them to discomfit146 a host which had chosen this plain as the most feasible in all Attica for the action of cavalry147.
A sea-haze lay upon the strait of Euripus and upon Euboea, and nearly hid from our sight the forms of the Cyclades; but away in the northwest were snow peaks, which the guide said were the heights of Parnassus above Delphi. In the world there can be few prospects148 so magnificent as this, and none more inspiring to the imagination. No one can properly appreciate the Greek literature or art who has not looked upon the Greek nature which seems to have inspired both.
Nothing now remains of the monuments and temples which the pride and piety of the Athenians erected149 upon the field of Marathon. The visitor at the Arsenal150 of Venice remembers the clumsy lion which is said to have stood on this plain, and in the Temple of Theseus, at Athens, he may see a slab151 which was found in this meadow; on it is cut in very low relief the figure of a soldier, but if the work is Greek the style of treatment is Assyrian.
The Temple of Theseus, which occupies an elevation152 above the city and west of the Areopagus, is the best-preserved monument of Grecian antiquity, and if it were the only one, Athens would still be worthy153 of a pilgrimage from the ends of the earth. Behind it is a level esplanade, used as a drill-ground, upon one side of which have been gathered some relics of ancient buildings and sculptures; seated there in an ancient marble chair, we never wearied of studying the beautiful proportions of this temple, which scarcely suffers by comparison with the Parthenon or that at P鎠tum. In its construction the same subtle secret of curved lines and inclined verticals154 was known, a secret which increases its apparent size and satisfies the eye with harmony.
While we were in Athens the antiquarians were excited by the daily discoveries in the excavations155 at the Keramicus (the field where the Athenian potters worked). Through the portion of this district outside the gate Dipylum ran two streets, which were lined with tombs; one ran to the Academe, the other was the sacred way to Eleusis. The excavations have disclosed many tombs and lovely groups of funereal156 sculpture, some of which are in situ, but many have been removed to the new Museum. The favorite device is the seated figure of the one about to die, who in this position of dignity takes leave of those most loved; perhaps it is a wife, a husband, a lovely daughter, a handsome boy, who calmly awaits the inevitable157 moment, while the relatives fondly look or half avert158 their sorrowful faces. In all sculpture I know nothing so touching159 as these family farewells. I obtained from them a new impression of the Greek dignity and tenderness, of the simplicity160 and nobility of their domestic life.
The Museum, which was unarranged, is chiefly one of fragments, but what I saw there and elsewhere scattered about the town gave me a finer conception of the spirit of the ancient art than all the more perfect remains in Europe put together; and it seems to me that nowhere except in Athens is it possible to attain161 a comprehension of its depth and loveliness. Something, I know, is due to the genius loci, but you come to the knowledge that the entire life, even the commonest, was pervaded162 by something that has gone from modern art. In the Museum we saw a lovely statue of Isis, a noble one of Patroclus, fine ones of athletes, and also, showing the intercourse163 with Egypt, several figures holding the sacred sistrum, and one of Rameses II. But it is the humbler and funereal art that gives one a new conception of the Greek grace, tenderness, and sensibility. I have spoken of the sweet dignity, the high-born grace, that accepted death with lofty resignation, and yet not with stoical indifference165, of some of the sepulchral166 groups. There was even more poetry in some that are simpler. Upon one slab was carved a figure, pensive167, alone, wrapping his drapery about him and stepping into the silent land, on that awful journey that admits of no companion. On another, which was also without inscription168, a solitary169 figure sat in one corner; he had removed helmet and shield, and placed them on the ground behind him; a line upon the stone indicated the boundary of the invisible world, and, with a sad contemplation, the eyes of the soldier were fixed170 upon that unknown region into which he was about to descend30.
Scarcely a day passed that we did not ascend the Acropolis; and again and again we traversed the Areopagus, the Pnyx, the Museum hills. From the valley of the Agora stone steps lead up the Areopagus to a bench cut in the rock. Upon this open summit the Areopagite Council held, in the open air, its solemn sessions; here it sat, it is said, at night and in the dark, that no face of witness or criminal, or gesture of advocate, should influence the justice of its decisions. Dedicated171 to divine justice, it was the most sacred and awful place in Athens; in a cavern172 underneath173 it was the sanctuary174 of the dread175 Erinnyes, the avenging176 Euries, whom a later superstition177 represented with snakes twisted in their hair; whatever the gay frivolity178 of the city, this spot was silent, and respected as the dread seat of judicature of the highest causes of religion or of politics. To us Mars Hill is chiefly associated with the name of St. Paul; and I do not suppose it matters much whether he spoke164 to the men of Athens in this sacred place or, as is more probable, from a point farther down the hill, now occupied by a little chapel, where he would be nearer to the multitude of the market-place. It does not matter; it was on the Areopagus, and in the centre of temples and a thousand statues that bespoke179 the highest civilization of the pagan world, that Paul proclaimed the truth, which man's egotism continually forgets, that in temples made with hands the Deity180 does not dwell.
From this height, on the side of the Museum Hill, we see the grotto that has been dignified181 with the title of the "prison of Socrates," but upon slight grounds. When the philosopher was condemned182, the annual sacred ship which was sent with thank-offerings to Delos was still absent, and until its return no execution was permitted in Athens. Every day the soldiers who guarded Socrates ascended this hill, and went round the point to see if the expected vessel183 was in sight; and it is for their convenience that some antiquarian designated this grotto as the prison. The delay of the ship gave us his last immortal64 discourse184.
We went one evening by the Temple of Jupiter, along the Ilissus, to the old Stadium. This classic stream, the Ilissus, is a gully, with steep banks and a stony bottom, and apparently185 never wet except immediately after a rain. You would think by the flattery it received from the ancient Athenians that it was larger than the Mississippi. The Panathenaic Stadium, as it is called, because its chief use was in the celebration of the games of the great quadrennial festival, was by nature and art exceedingly well adapted to chariot races and other contests. Open at the end, where a bridge crossed the Ilissus, it extended a hundred feet broad six hundred and fifty feet into the hill, upon the three sloping sides of which, in seats of marble, could be accommodated fifty thousand spectators. Here the Greek youth contended for the prizes in the chariot race, and the more barbarous Roman emperors amused a degenerate186 people with the sight of a thousand wild beasts hunted and slain in a single celebration.
The Stadium has been lately re-excavated, and at the time of our visit the citizens were erecting187 some cheap benches at one end, and preparing, in a feeble way, for what it pleases them to call the Olympic Games, which were to be inaugurated the following Sunday. The place must inevitably188 dwarf189 the performance, and comparison render it ridiculous. The committee-men may seem to themselves Olympic heroes, and they had the earnest air of trying to make themselves believe that they were really reviving the ancient glory of Greece, or that they could bring it back by calling a horse-race and the wrestling of some awkward peasants an "Olympiad." The revival190 could be, as we afterwards learned it was, only a sickly and laughable affair. The life of a nation is only preserved in progress, not in attempts to make dead forms live again. It is difficult to have chariot races or dramatic contests without chariots or poets, and I suppose the modern imitation would scarcely be saved from ludicrousness, even if the herald191 should proclaim that now a Patroclus and now an Aristophanes was about to enter the arena192. The modern occupants of Athens seem to be deceiving themselves a little with names and shadows. In the genuine effort to revive in its purity the Greek language, and to inspire a love of art and literature, the Western traveller will wholly sympathize. In the growth of a liberal commercial spirit he will see still more hope of a new and enduring Greek state. But a puerile193 imitation of a society and a religion which cannot possibly have a resurrection excites only a sad smile. There is no more pitiful sight than a man who has lost his ideals, unless it be a nation which has lost its ideals. So long as the body of the American people hold fast to the simple and primitive194 conception of a republican society,—to the ideals of a century ago,—the nation can survive, as England did, a period of political corruption195. There never was, not under Themistocles nor under Scanderbeg, a more glorious struggle for independence than that which the battle of Navarino virtually terminated. The world had a right to expect from the victors a new and vigorous national life, not a pale and sentimental196 copy of a splendid original, which is now as impossible of revival as the Roman Empire. To do the practical and money-getting Greeks justice, I could not learn that they took a deep interest in the "Olympiad"; nor that the inhabitants of ancient Sparta were jealous of the re-institution of the national games in Athens, since, they say, there are no longer any Athenians to be jealous of.
The ancient Athenians were an early people; they liked the dewy freshness of the morning; they gave the first hours of the day to the market and to public affairs, and the rising sun often greeted the orators197 on the bema, and an audience on the terrace below. We had seen the Acropolis in almost every aspect, but I thought that one might perhaps catch more of its ancient spirit at sunrise than at any other hour.
It is four o'clock when my companion and I descend into the silent street and take our way to the ancient citadel199 by the shortest and steepest path. Dawn is just breaking in pink, and the half-moon is in the sky. The sleepy guard unbolts the gate and admits us, but does not care to follow; and we pass the Propyl鎍 and have the whole field to ourselves. There is a great hush200 as we come into the silent presence of the gray Parthenon; the shades of night are still in its columns. We take our station on a broken pillar, so that we can enjoy a three-quarters view of the east front. As the light strengthens we have a pink sky for background to the temple, and the smooth bay of Phalerum is like a piece of the sky dropped down. Very gradually the light breaks on the Parthenon, and in its glowing awakening201 it is like a sentient202 thing, throwing shadows from its columns and kindling203 more and more; the lion gargoyles204 on the corners of the pediment have a life which we had not noticed before. There is now a pink tint205 on the fragments of columns lying at the side; there is a reddish hue206 on the plain about Pir鎢s; the strait of Salamis is green, but growing blue; Phalerum is taking an iridescent207 sheen; I can see, beyond the Gulf208 of 苂ina, the distant height of Acro-Corinth. .
The city is still in heavy shadow, even the Temple of Theseus does not relax from its sombreness. But the light mounts; it catches the top of the white columns of the Propyl鎍, it shines on the cornice of the Erechtheum, and creeps down in blushes upon the faces of the Caryatides, which seem to bow yet in worship of the long-since-departed Pallas Athene. The bugles209 of the soldiers called to drill on the Thesean esplanade float up to us; they are really bugle-notes summoning the statues and the old Panathenaic cavalcades210 on the friezes211 to life and morning action. The day advances, the red sun commanding the hill and flooding it with light, and the buildings glowing more and more in it, but yet casting shadows. A hawk212 sweeps around from the north and hangs poised213 on motionless wings over the building just as the sun touches it. We climb to the top of the western pediment for the wide sweep of view. The world has already got wind of day, and is putting off its nightcaps and opening its doors. As we descend we peer about for a bit of marble as a memento of our visit; but Lord Elgin has left little for the kleptomaniac214 to carry away.
At this hour the Athenians ought to be assembling on the Pnyx to hear Demosthenes, who should be already on the bema; but the bema has no orator198, and the terrace is empty. We might perhaps see an early representation at the theatre of Dionysus, into which we can cast a stone from this wall. We pass the gate, scramble along the ragged138 hillside,—the dumping-ground of the excavators on the Acropolis,—and stand above the highest seats of the Amphitheatre. No one has come. The white marble chairs in the front row—carved with the names of the priests of Bacchus and reserved for them—wait, and even the seats not reserved are empty. There is no white-clad chorus manoeuvring on the paved orchestra about the altar; the stage is broken in, and the crouching215 figures that supported it are the only sign of life. One would like to have sat upon these benches, that look on the sea, and listened to a chorus from the Antigone this morning. One would like to have witnessed that scene when Aristophanes, on this stage, mimicked216 and ridiculed217 Socrates, and the philosopher, rising from his undistinguished seat high up among the people, replied.
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sobbed
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| 哭泣，啜泣( sob的过去式和过去分词 )； 哭诉，呜咽地说 | |
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plaintive
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| adj.可怜的，伤心的 | |
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tragic
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| adj.悲剧的，悲剧性的，悲惨的 | |
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flea
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| n.跳蚤 | |
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wavy
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| adj.有波浪的，多浪的，波浪状的，波动的，不稳定的 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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defile
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| v.弄污，弄脏；n.(山间)小道 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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11
eminence
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| n.卓越，显赫；高地，高处；名家 | |
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12
gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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13
monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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14
cloister
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| n.修道院；v.隐退，使与世隔绝 | |
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15
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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16
dame
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| n.女士 | |
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17
carving
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| n.雕刻品，雕花 | |
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18
relics
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| [pl.］n.遗物，遗迹，遗产；遗体，尸骸 | |
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19
mingled
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| 混合，混入( mingle的过去式和过去分词 )； 混进，与…交往[联系] | |
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20
adoration
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| n.爱慕，崇拜 | |
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21
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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22
lurking
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| 潜在 | |
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23
precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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24
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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25
contented
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| adj.满意的，安心的，知足的 | |
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26
sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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27
enchanting
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| a.讨人喜欢的 | |
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28
secluded
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|
| adj.与世隔绝的；隐退的；偏僻的v.使隔开，使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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29
scant
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| adj.不充分的，不足的；v.减缩，限制，忽略 | |
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30
descend
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| vt./vi.传下来，下来，下降 | |
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31
attic
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| n.顶楼，屋顶室 | |
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32
jutting
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| v.（使）突出( jut的现在分词 )；伸出；（从…）突出；高出 | |
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33
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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34
throngs
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| n.人群( throng的名词复数 )v.成群，挤满( throng的第三人称单数 ) | |
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35
brass
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| n.黄铜；黄铜器，铜管乐器 | |
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36
incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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37
chatter
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| vi.／n.喋喋不休；短促尖叫；(牙齿)打战 | |
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38
defiance
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| n.挑战，挑衅，蔑视，违抗 | |
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39
metallic
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|
| adj.金属的；金属制的；含金属的；产金属的；像金属的 | |
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40
sculptor
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| n.雕刻家，雕刻家 | |
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41
bust
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| vt.打破；vi.爆裂；n.半身像；胸部 | |
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43
tunic
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| n.束腰外衣 | |
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44
excavation
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| n.挖掘，发掘；被挖掘之地 | |
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45
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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46
diligently
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| ad.industriously;carefully | |
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47
shanty
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| n.小屋，棚屋；船工号子 | |
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48
coveted
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|
| adj.令人垂涎的；垂涎的，梦寐以求的v.贪求，觊觎(covet的过去分词)；垂涎；贪图 | |
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49
tapering
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| adj.尖端细的 | |
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50
memento
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| n.纪念品，令人回忆的东西 | |
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51
furtive
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| adj.鬼鬼崇崇的，偷偷摸摸的 | |
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52
fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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53
nucleus
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| n.核，核心，原子核 | |
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54
fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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55
aboriginal
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| adj.（指动植物）土生的，原产地的，土著的 | |
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56
ascend
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|
| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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57
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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58
importunate
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| adj.强求的；纠缠不休的 | |
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59
swarms
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| 蜂群，一大群( swarm的名词复数 ) | |
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60
concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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61
symbolize
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| vt.作为...的象征，用符号代表 | |
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62
primal
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| adj.原始的；最重要的 | |
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63
immortality
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| n.不死，不朽 | |
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64
immortal
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| adj.不朽的；永生的，不死的；神的 | |
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65
devoted
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| adj.忠诚的，忠实的，热心的，献身于...的 | |
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66
annoyance
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|
| n.恼怒，生气，烦恼 | |
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67
rascals
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|
| 流氓( rascal的名词复数 )； 无赖； （开玩笑说法）淘气的人（尤指小孩）； 恶作剧的人 | |
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68
sufficiently
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|
| adv.足够地，充分地 | |
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69
meditate
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| v.想，考虑，（尤指宗教上的）沉思，冥想 | |
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70
swarmed
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|
| 密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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71
capering
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|
| v.跳跃，雀跃( caper的现在分词 )；蹦蹦跳跳 | |
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72
incessantly
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|
| ad.不停地 | |
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73
scattered
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|
| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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74
saluted
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| v.欢迎，致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 )；赞扬，赞颂 | |
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75
vivacity
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|
| n.快活，活泼，精神充沛 | |
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76
tormented
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| 饱受折磨的 | |
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77
groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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78
scarlet
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|
| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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79
delightful
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|
| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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80
rivulet
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|
| n.小溪，小河 | |
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81
privately
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|
| adv.以私人的身份，悄悄地，私下地 | |
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82
mighty
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|
| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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83
poetic
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|
| adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的 | |
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84
colonnade
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| n.柱廊 | |
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85
meditated
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|
| 深思，沉思，冥想( meditate的过去式和过去分词 )； 内心策划，考虑 | |
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86
scent
|
|
| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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87
shrubs
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| 灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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88
murmur
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|
| n.低语，低声的怨言；v.低语，低声而言 | |
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89
vault
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|
| n.拱形圆顶，地窖，地下室 | |
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90
celebrated
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|
| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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91
conspired
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|
| 密谋( conspire的过去式和过去分词 )； 搞阴谋； （事件等）巧合； 共同导致 | |
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92
laboriously
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|
| adv.艰苦地；费力地；辛勤地；（文体等）佶屈聱牙地 | |
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93
zigzag
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|
| n.曲折，之字形；adj.曲折的，锯齿形的；adv.曲折地，成锯齿形地；vt.使曲折；vi.曲折前行 | |
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94
cone
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|
| n.圆锥体，圆锥形东西，球果 | |
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95
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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96
descending
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|
| n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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97
embroidered
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| adj．绣花的 | |
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98
chattering
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|
| n. （机器振动发出的）咔嗒声，(鸟等)鸣，啁啾 adj. 喋喋不休的，啾啾声的 动词chatter的现在分词形式 | |
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99
piqued
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|
| v.伤害…的自尊心( pique的过去式和过去分词 )；激起（好奇心） | |
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100
exuberance
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| n.丰富；繁荣 | |
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101
niche
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| n.壁龛；合适的职务(环境、位置等) | |
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102
cleft
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| n.裂缝；adj.裂开的 | |
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103
piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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104
sonorous
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|
| adj.响亮的，回响的；adv.圆润低沉地；感人地；n.感人，堂皇 | |
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105
axis
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| n.轴，轴线，中心线；坐标轴，基准线 | |
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106
utilized
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| v.利用，使用( utilize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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107
fumes
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| n.(强烈而刺激的)气味，气体 | |
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108
perch
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| n.栖木，高位，杆；v.栖息，就位，位于 | |
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109
sipping
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| v.小口喝，呷，抿( sip的现在分词 ) | |
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110
grotto
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| n.洞穴 | |
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111
tapers
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| （长形物体的）逐渐变窄( taper的名词复数 )； 微弱的光； 极细的蜡烛 | |
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112
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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113
devout
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| adj.虔诚的，虔敬的，衷心的 (n.devoutness) | |
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114
coppers
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| 铜( copper的名词复数 )； 铜币 | |
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115
passionately
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| ad.热烈地，激烈地 | |
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116
importunately
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117
illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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118
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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119
recess
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| n.短期休息，壁凹（墙上装架子，柜子等凹处） | |
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120
incurring
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| 遭受，招致，引起( incur的现在分词 ) | |
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121
fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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122
ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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123
scorched
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| 烧焦，烤焦( scorch的过去式和过去分词 )； 使（植物）枯萎，把…晒枯； 高速行驶； 枯焦 | |
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124
rugged
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| adj.高低不平的，粗糙的，粗壮的，强健的 | |
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125
maidens
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| 处女( maiden的名词复数 )； 少女； 未婚女子； （板球运动）未得分的一轮投球 | |
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126
quarries
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| n.（采）石场( quarry的名词复数 )；猎物（指鸟，兽等）；方形石；（格窗等的）方形玻璃v.从采石场采得( quarry的第三人称单数 )；从（书本等中）努力发掘（资料等）；在采石场采石 | |
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127
scramble
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| v.爬行，攀爬，杂乱蔓延，碎片，片段，废料 | |
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128
Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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129
brigands
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| n.土匪，强盗( brigand的名词复数 ) | |
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130
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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131
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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132
lustre
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| n.光亮，光泽；荣誉 | |
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133
softened
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| （使）变软( soften的过去式和过去分词 )； 缓解打击； 缓和； 安慰 | |
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134
judicious
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| adj.明智的，明断的，能作出明智决定的 | |
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135
crooks
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| n.骗子( crook的名词复数 )；罪犯；弯曲部分；（牧羊人或主教用的）弯拐杖v.弯成钩形( crook的第三人称单数 ) | |
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136
scampered
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| v.蹦蹦跳跳地跑，惊惶奔跑( scamper的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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137
lookout
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| n.注意，前途，瞭望台 | |
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138
ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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139
galleys
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| n.平底大船，战舰( galley的名词复数 )；（船上或航空器上的）厨房 | |
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140
mound
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| n.土墩，堤，小山；v.筑堤，用土堆防卫 | |
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141
marsh
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| n.沼泽，湿地 | |
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142
partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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143
slain
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| 杀死，宰杀，杀戮( slay的过去分词 )； (slay的过去分词) | |
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144
embarkation
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| n. 乘船, 搭机, 开船 | |
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145
barbarians
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| n.野蛮人( barbarian的名词复数 )；外国人；粗野的人；无教养的人 | |
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146
discomfit
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| v.使困惑，使尴尬 | |
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147
cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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148
prospects
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| n.希望，前途(恒为复数) | |
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149
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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150
arsenal
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| n.兵工厂，军械库 | |
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151
slab
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| n.平板，厚的切片；v.切成厚板，以平板盖上 | |
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152
elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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153
worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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154
verticals
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| 垂直线，垂直位置( vertical的名词复数 ) | |
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155
excavations
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| n.挖掘( excavation的名词复数 )；开凿；开凿的洞穴（或山路等）；（发掘出来的）古迹 | |
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156
funereal
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| adj.悲哀的；送葬的 | |
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157
inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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158
avert
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| v.防止，避免；转移(目光、注意力等) | |
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159
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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160
simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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161
attain
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| vt.达到，获得，完成 | |
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162
pervaded
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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163
intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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164
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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165
indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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166
sepulchral
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| adj.坟墓的，阴深的 | |
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167
pensive
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| a.沉思的,哀思的,忧沉的 | |
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168
inscription
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| n.（尤指石块上的）刻印文字，铭文，碑文 | |
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169
solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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170
fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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171
dedicated
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| adj.一心一意的；献身的；热诚的 | |
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172
cavern
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| n.洞穴，大山洞 | |
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173
underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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174
sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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175
dread
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| vt.担忧，忧虑；惧怕，不敢；n.担忧，畏惧 | |
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176
avenging
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| adj.报仇的，复仇的v.为…复仇，报…之仇( avenge的现在分词 )；为…报复 | |
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177
superstition
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| n.迷信，迷信行为 | |
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178
frivolity
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| n.轻松的乐事，兴高采烈；轻浮的举止 | |
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179
bespoke
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| adj.（产品）订做的；专做订货的v.预定( bespeak的过去式 )；订（货）；证明；预先请求 | |
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180
deity
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| n.神，神性；被奉若神明的人(或物) | |
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181
dignified
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| a.可敬的，高贵的 | |
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182
condemned
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| adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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183
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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184
discourse
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| n.论文，演说；谈话；话语；vi.讲述，著述 | |
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185
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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186
degenerate
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| v.退步，堕落；adj.退步的，堕落的；n.堕落者 | |
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187
erecting
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| v.使直立，竖起( erect的现在分词 )；建立 | |
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188
inevitably
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| adv.不可避免地；必然发生地 | |
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189
dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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190
revival
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| n.复兴，复苏，（精力、活力等的）重振 | |
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191
herald
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| vt.预示...的来临，预告，宣布，欢迎 | |
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192
arena
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| n.竞技场，运动场所；竞争场所，舞台 | |
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193
puerile
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| adj.幼稚的，儿童的 | |
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194
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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195
corruption
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| n.腐败，堕落，贪污 | |
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196
sentimental
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| adj.多愁善感的，感伤的 | |
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197
orators
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| n.演说者，演讲家( orator的名词复数 ) | |
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198
orator
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| n.演说者，演讲者，雄辩家 | |
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199
citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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200
hush
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| int.嘘，别出声；n.沉默，静寂；v.使安静 | |
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201
awakening
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| n.觉醒，醒悟 adj.觉醒中的；唤醒的 | |
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202
sentient
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| adj.有知觉的，知悉的；adv.有感觉能力地 | |
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203
kindling
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| n. 点火, 可燃物 动词kindle的现在分词形式 | |
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204
gargoyles
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| n.怪兽状滴水嘴( gargoyle的名词复数 ) | |
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205
tint
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| n.淡色，浅色；染发剂；vt.着以淡淡的颜色 | |
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206
hue
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| n.色度；色调；样子 | |
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207
iridescent
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| adj.彩虹色的，闪色的 | |
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208
gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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209
bugles
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| 妙脆角，一种类似薯片但做成尖角或喇叭状的零食； 号角( bugle的名词复数 )； 喇叭； 匍匐筋骨草； （装饰女服用的）柱状玻璃（或塑料）小珠 | |
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210
cavalcades
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| n.骑马队伍，车队( cavalcade的名词复数 ) | |
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211
friezes
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| n.（柱顶过梁和挑檐间的）雕带，（墙顶的）饰带( frieze的名词复数 ) | |
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212
hawk
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| n.鹰，骗子；鹰派成员 | |
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213
poised
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| a.摆好姿势不动的 | |
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214
kleptomaniac
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| n.有偷窃狂的人 | |
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215
crouching
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| v.屈膝，蹲伏( crouch的现在分词 ) | |
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216
mimicked
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| v.（尤指为了逗乐而）模仿( mimic的过去式和过去分词 )；酷似 | |
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217
ridiculed
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| v.嘲笑，嘲弄，奚落( ridicule的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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