We sailed along Salamis. It was a morning of clouds; but 苂ina (once mistress of these seas, and the hated rival of Athens) and the Peloponnesus were robed in graceful4 garments that, like the veils of the Circassian girls, did not conceal5 their forms. In four hours we landed at Kalamaki, which is merely a station for the transfer of passengers across the Isthmus6. Six miles south on the coast we had a glimpse of Cenchre?, which is famous as the place where Paul, still under the bonds of Jewish superstition7, having accomplished8 his vow9, shaved his head. The neck of limestone10 rock, which connects the Peloponnesus with the mainland, is ten miles long, and not more than four miles broad from Kalamaki to Lutraki on the Gulf11 of Corinth, and as it is not, at its highest elevation12, over a hundred feet above the sea, the project of piercing it with a canal, which was often entertained and actually begun by Nero, does not seem preposterous13. The traveller over it to-day will see some remains14 of the line of fortification, the Isthmian Wall, which served in turn Greeks, Macedonians, Saracens, Latin Crusaders, and Slavonic settlers; and fragments of the ancient buildings of the Isthmian Sanctuary15, where the Panhellenic festivals were celebrated16.
The drive across was exceedingly pleasant. The Isthmus is seamed with ravines and ridges17, picturesque18 with rocks which running vines drape and age has colored, and variegated19 with corn-fields. We enjoyed on either hand the splendid mountain forms; on the north white Helicon and Parnassus; on the south the nearly two-thousand-feet wall-crowned height of Acro-Corinth and the broken snowy hills of the Morea.
Familiar as we were with the atlas20, we had not until now any adequate conception how much indented21 the Grecian mainland and islands are, nor how broken into peaks, narrow valleys, and long serrated summits are the contours. When we appreciate, by actual sight, the multitude of islands that compose Greece, how subject to tempests its seas are, how difficult is communication between the villages of the mainland, or even those on the same island, we understand the naturalness of the ancient divisions and strifes; and we see the physical obstacles to the creation of a feeling of unity22 in the present callow kingdom. And one hears with no surprise that Corfu wishes herself back under English protection.
We drove through the cluster of white houses on the bay, which is now called Corinth, and saw at three miles' distance the site of the old city and the Acropolis beyond it. Earthquakes and malaria23 have not been more lenient24 to the ancient town than was Roman vengeance25, and of the capital which was to Greece in luxury what Athens was in wit, only a few columns and sinking walls remain. Even the voluptuousness26 of Corinth is a tale of two thousand years ago, and the name might long ago have sunk with the fortunes of the city, but for the long residence there of a poor tent-maker, in whom no proud citizen of that day, of all those who "sat down to eat and drink and rose up to play," would have recognized the chief creator of its fame.
Our little Greek steamer was crowded excessively, and mainly with Greeks going to Patras and Zante, who noisily talked politics and business in a manner that savored27 more of New England than of the land of Solon and Plato. For the first time in a travel of many months we met families together, gentlemen with their wives and children, and saw the evidences of a happy home-life. It is everything in favor of the Greeks that they have preserved the idea of home, and cherish, as the centre of all good and strength, domestic purity.
At dinner there was an undisguised rush for seats at the table, and the strongest men got them. We looked down through the skylights and beheld28 the valiant29 Greeks flourishing their knives, attacking, while expecting soup, the caviare and pickles30, and thrusting the naked blades into their mouths without fear. The knife seems seldom to hurt the Greek, whose display of deadly weapons is mainly for show. There are dozens of stout31 swarthy fellows on board, in petticoats and quilted leggings, with each a belly32 full of weapons,—the protruding33 leathern pouch34 contains a couple of pistols, a cheese-knife, cartridges35, and pipes and tobacco.
The sail through the Gulf of Corinth is one to be enjoyed and remembered, but the reader shall not be wearied with a catalogue of names. What is it to him that we felt the presence of Delphi, that we had Parnassus on our right, and Mt. Panachaicum, lifting itself higher than Mt. Washington, on our left, the Locrian coast on one side, and the range of Arcadia on the other? The strait narrowed as we came at evening near Patras, and between the opposite forts of Rheum and Antirheum it is no broader than the Bosphorus; it was already dusky when we peered into the Bay of Lepanto, which is not, however, the site of the battle of that name in which the natural son of the pretty innkeeper of Ratisbon rendered such a signal service to Christendom. Patras, a thriving new city, which inherits the name but not the site of the ancient, lies open in the narrow strait, subject to the high wind which always blows through the passage, and is usually a dangerous landing. All the time that we lay there in the dark we thought a tempest was prevailing36, but the clamor subsided37 when we moved into the open sea. Of Patras we saw nothing except a circle of lights on the shore a mile long, a procession of colored torches which illumined for an instant the fa鏰de of the city hall, and some rockets which went up in honor of a local patriot38 who had returned on our boat from Athens. And we had not even a glimpse of Missolonghi, which we passed in the night.
At daylight we are at Zante, anchored in its eastward-looking harbor opposite the Peloponnesian coast. The town is most charmingly situated39, and gives one an impression of wealth and elegance40. Old Zacynthus was renowned42 for its hospitality before the days of the Athenian and Spartan43 wars, and—such is the tenacity44 with which traits are perpetuated45 amid a thousand changes—its present wealthy and enterprising merchant-farmers, whose villas46 are scattered47 about the slopes, enjoy a reputation for the same delightful48 gift. The gentlemen are distinguished49 among the Ionians for their fondness of country life and convivial50 gayety. Early as it was, the town welcomed us with its most gracious offerings of flowers and fruit; for the pedlers who swarmed51 on board brought nothing less poetical52 than handfuls of dewy roses, carnations53, heliotrope54, freshly cut mignonette, baskets of yellow oranges, and bottles of red wine. The wine, of which the Zante passengers had boasted, was very good, and the oranges, solid, juicy, sweet, the best I have ever eaten, except, perhaps, some grown in a fortunate year in Florida. Sharp hills rise behind the town, and, beyond, a most fertile valley broadens out to the sea. Almost all the land is given up to the culture of the currant-vine, the grapes of Corinth, for in the transfer of the chief cultivation55 of this profitable fruit from Corinth to Zante, the name went with the dwarf56 vines. On the hillsides, as we sailed away, we observed innumerable terraces, broad, flat, and hard like threshing-floors, and learned that they were the drying-grounds of the ripe currants.
We were all day among the Ionian Islands, and were able to see all of them except Cythera, off Cape57 Malea, esteemed58 for its honey and its magnificent temple to the foam-born Venus. They lay in such a light as the reader of Homer likes to think of them. We sailed past them as in a dream, not caring to distinguish history from fable59. It was off the little Echinades, near the coast, by the mouth of the Achelous, that Don John, three hundred years ago, broke the European onset60 of the Ottoman arms; it was nearly a dear victory for Christendom, for among the severely61 wounded was Cervantes, and Don Quixote had not yet been written. But this battle is not more real to us than the story of Ulysses and Penelope which the rocky surface of Ithaca recalls. And as we lingered along the shores of Cephalonia and Leucadia, it was not of any C鎠ar or Byzantine emperor or Norman chieftain that we thought, but of the poet whose verses will outlast62 all their renown41. Leucadia still harbors, it is said, the breed of wolves that, perhaps, of all the inhabitants of these islands preserve in purity the Hellenic blood. We sailed close to the long promontory63, "Leucadia's far-projecting rock of woe," and saw, if any one may see, the very precipice64 from which Sappho, leaping, quenched65 in brine the amatory flames of a heart that sixty years of song and trouble had not cooled.
Through the strait of Actium we looked upon the smooth inland sea of Ambracia, while our steamer churned along the very waters that saw the flight of the purple sails of Cleopatra, whom the enamored Antony followed and left the world to Augustus. The world was a small affair then, when its possession could be decided66 on a bit of water where, as Byron says, two frigates67 could hardly manouvre. These historical empires were fleeting68 shows at the best, not to be compared to the permanent conquests and empire of the mind. The voyager from the Bosphorus to Corfu feels that it is not any Alexander or C鎠ar, Chagan or Caliph, but Homer, who rules over the innumerable islands and sunny mainlands of Greece.
It was deep twilight69 when we passed the barren rock of Anti-paxos, and the mountain in the sea called Paxos. There is no island in all these seas that has not its legend; that connected with Paxos, and recorded by Plutarch, I am tempted70 to transcribe71 from the handbook, in the quaint72 language in which it is quoted, for it expresses not only the spirit of this wild coast, but also our own passage out of the domain73 of mythology74 into the sunlight of Christian countries: "Here, about the time that our Lord suffered his most bitter passion, certain persons sailing from Italy to Cyprus at night heard a voice calling aloud, Thamus! Thamus! who giving ear to the cry was bidden (for he was pilot of the ship), when he came near to Pelodes to tell that the great god Pan was dead, which he doubting to do, yet for that when he came to Pelodes there was such a calm of wind that the ship stood still in the sea unmoored, he was forced to cry aloud that Pan was dead; wherewithal there were such piteous outcries and dreadful shrieking75 as hath not been the like. By which Pan, of some is understood the great Sathanas, whose kingdom was at that time by Christ conquered, and the gates of hell broken up; for at that time all oracles76 surceased, and enchanted77 spirits that were wont78 to delude79 the people henceforth held their peace."
It was ten o'clock at night when we reached Corfu, and sailed in under the starlight by the frowning hill of the fortress81, gliding82 spectrally83 among the shipping84, with steam shut off, and at a signal given by the bowsman letting go the anchor in front of the old battery.
Corfu, in the opinion of Napoleon, enjoys the most beautiful situation in the world. Its loveliness is in no danger of being overpraised. Shut in by the Albanian coast opposite, the town appears to lie upon a lake, surrounded by the noblest hills and decorated with a tropical vegetation. Very picturesque in its moss-grown rock is the half-dismantled old double fortress, which the English, in surrendering to the weak Greek state, endeavored to render as weak as possible. It and a part of the town occupy a bold promontory; the remainder of the city lies around a little bay formed by this promontory and Quarantine Island. The more we see of the charming situation, and become familiar with the delicious mountain outlines, we regret that we can tarry but a day, and almost envy those who make it a winter home. The interior of the city itself, when we ascend85 the height and walk in the palace square, appears bright and cheerful, but retains something of the dull and decorous aspect of an English garrison86 town. In the shops the traveller does not find much to interest him, except the high prices of all antiquities87. We drove five miles into the country, to the conical hill and garden of Gasturi, whose mistress gathered for us flowers and let us pluck from the trees the ripe and rather tasteless nespoli. From this summit is an extraordinary prospect88 of blue sea, mountains, snowy summits, the town, and the island, broken into sharp peaks and most luxuriant valleys and hillsides. Ancient, gnarled olive-trees abound89, thousands of acres of grapevines were in sight, the hedges were the prickly-pear cactus90, and groves91 of walnuts92 and most vigorous fig-trees interspersed93 the landscape. There was even here and there a palm. A lovely land, most poetical in its contours.
The Italian steamer for Brindisi was crowded with passengers. On the forward deck was a picturesque horde94 of Albanian gypsies. The captain said that he counted eighty, without the small ones, which, to avoid the payment of fare, were done up in handkerchiefs and carried in bags like kittens. The men, in broad, short breeches and the jackets of their country, were stout and fine fellows physically95. The women, wearing no marked costume, but clad in any rags of dresses that may have been begged or stolen, were strikingly wild in appearance, and if it is true that the women of a race best preserve the primeval traits, these preserve, in their swarthy complexions96, burning black eyes, and jet black hair, the characteristics of some savage97 Oriental tribe. The hair in front was woven into big braids, which were stiff with coins and other barbarous ornaments99 in silver. A few among them might be called handsome, since their profiles were classic; but it was a wild beauty which woman sometimes shares with the panther. They slept about the deck amidst their luggage, one family usually crawling into a single sack. In the morning there were nests of them all about, and, as they crawled forth80, especially as the little ones swarmed out, it was difficult to believe that the number of passengers had not been miraculously100 increased in the night. The women carry the fortune of the family on their heads; certainly their raiment, which drapes but does not conceal their forms, would scarcely have a value in the rag-market of Naples. I bought of one of them a silver ornament98, cutting it from the woman's hair, but I observed that her husband appropriated the money.
It was like entering a new world of order and civilization, next morning, to sail through the vast outer harbor of Brindisi into the inner one, and lie, for the first time in the Mediterranean101, at a dock. The gypsies made a more picturesque landing than the other passengers, trudging102 away with their hags, tags, rags, and tent-poles, the women and children lugging103 their share. It was almost touching104 to see their care for the heaps of rubbish which constitute all their worldly possessions. They come like locusts105 to plunder106 sunny Italy; on a pretence107 of seeking work in the fields, they will spend the summer in the open air, gaining health and living, as their betters like to live, upon the labor108 of others.
Brindisi has a beautiful Roman column, near it the house where Virgil is said to have died, and an ancient fortress, which is half crumbling109 walls and half dwelling-houses, and is surrounded, like the city wall, by a moat, now converted into a vegetable garden. As I was peacefully walking along the rampart, intending to surround the town, a soldier motioned me back, as if it had been time of war. I offered to stroll over the drawbridge into the mouldy fortress. A soldier objected. As I turned away, he changed his mind, and offered to show me the interior. But it was now my turn to decline; and I told him that, the idle impulse passed, I would rather not go in. Of all human works I care the least for fortresses110, except to look at from the outside; it is not worth while to enter one except by storming it or strolling in, and when one must ask permission the charm is gone. You get sick to death almost of these soldier-folk who start up and bar your way with a bayonet wherever you seek to walk in Europe. No, soldier; I like the view from the wall of the moat, and the great fields of ripe wheat waving in the sweet north-wind, but I don't care for you or your fortress.
Brindisi is clean, but dull. Yet it was characteristically Italian that I should encounter in the Duomo square a smart, smooth-tongued charlatan111, who sold gold chains at a franc each,—which did not seem to be dear; and a jolly, almost hilarious112 cripple, who, having no use of his shrunken legs, had mounted himself on a wooden bottom, like a cheese-box, and, by the aid of his hands, went about as lively as a centipede.
I stepped into the cathedral; a service was droning on, with few listeners. On one side of the altar was a hideous113, soiled wax image of the dead Christ. Over the altar, in the central place of worship, was a flaring114 figure of the Virgin115, clad in the latest mode of French millinery, and underneath116 it was the legend, Viva Maria. This was the salutation of our return to a Christian land: Christ is dead; the Virgin lives!
Here our journey, which began on the other coast of Italy in November, ends in June. In ascending117 the Nile to the Second Cataract118, and making the circuit of the Levant, we have seen a considerable portion of the Moslem119 Empire and of the nascent120 Greek kingdom, which aspires121, at least in Europe, to displace it. We have seen both in a transition period, as marked as any since the Saracens trampled122 out the last remnants of the always sickly Greek Empire. The prospect is hopeful, although the picture of social and political life is far from agreeble. But for myself, now that we are out of the Orient and away from all its squalor and cheap magnificence, I turn again to it with a longing123 which I cannot explain; it is still the land of the imagination.
The End
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1
reluctance
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| n.厌恶，讨厌，勉强，不情愿 | |
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fascinations
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| n.魅力( fascination的名词复数 )；有魅力的东西；迷恋；陶醉 | |
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Christian
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| adj.基督教徒的；n.基督教徒 | |
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graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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conceal
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，隐蔽 | |
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isthmus
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| n.地峡 | |
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superstition
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| n.迷信，迷信行为 | |
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8
accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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vow
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| n.誓(言)，誓约；v.起誓，立誓 | |
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limestone
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| n.石灰石 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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elevation
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| n.高度；海拔；高地；上升；提高 | |
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preposterous
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| adj.荒谬的，可笑的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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sanctuary
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| n.圣所，圣堂，寺庙；禁猎区，保护区 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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variegated
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| adj.斑驳的，杂色的 | |
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atlas
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| n.地图册，图表集 | |
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indented
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| adj.锯齿状的，高低不平的；缩进排版 | |
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unity
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| n.团结，联合，统一；和睦，协调 | |
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malaria
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| n.疟疾 | |
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lenient
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| adj.宽大的，仁慈的 | |
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vengeance
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| n.报复，报仇，复仇 | |
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voluptuousness
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| n.风骚，体态丰满 | |
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savored
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| v.意味，带有…的性质( savor的过去式和过去分词 )；给…加调味品；使有风味；品尝 | |
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beheld
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| v.看，注视( behold的过去式和过去分词 )；瞧；看呀；（叙述中用于引出某人意外的出现）哎哟 | |
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valiant
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| adj.勇敢的，英勇的；n.勇士，勇敢的人 | |
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pickles
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| n.腌菜( pickle的名词复数 )；处于困境；遇到麻烦；菜酱 | |
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belly
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| n.肚子，腹部；(像肚子一样)鼓起的部分，膛 | |
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protruding
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| v.（使某物）伸出，（使某物）突出( protrude的现在分词 )；凸 | |
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pouch
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| n.小袋，小包，囊状袋；vt.装...入袋中，用袋运输；vi.用袋送信件 | |
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cartridges
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| 子弹( cartridge的名词复数 )； （打印机的）墨盒； 录音带盒； （唱机的）唱头 | |
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prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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subsided
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| v.（土地）下陷（因在地下采矿）( subside的过去式和过去分词 )；减弱；下降至较低或正常水平；一下子坐在椅子等上 | |
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patriot
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| n.爱国者，爱国主义者 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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renown
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| n.声誉，名望 | |
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renowned
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| adj.著名的，有名望的，声誉鹊起的 | |
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spartan
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| adj.简朴的，刻苦的；n.斯巴达；斯巴达式的人 | |
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tenacity
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| n.坚韧 | |
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perpetuated
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| vt.使永存（perpetuate的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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villas
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| 别墅，公馆( villa的名词复数 )； （城郊）住宅 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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50
convivial
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| adj.狂欢的，欢乐的 | |
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51
swarmed
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| 密集( swarm的过去式和过去分词 )； 云集； 成群地移动； 蜜蜂或其他飞行昆虫成群地飞来飞去 | |
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52
poetical
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| adj.似诗人的；诗一般的；韵文的；富有诗意的 | |
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53
carnations
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| n.麝香石竹，康乃馨( carnation的名词复数 ) | |
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54
heliotrope
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| n.天芥菜；淡紫色 | |
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cultivation
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| n.耕作，培养，栽培（法），养成 | |
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56
dwarf
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| n.矮子，侏儒，矮小的动植物；vt.使…矮小 | |
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cape
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| n.海角，岬；披肩，短披风 | |
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58
esteemed
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| adj.受人尊敬的v.尊敬( esteem的过去式和过去分词 )；敬重；认为；以为 | |
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fable
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| n.寓言；童话；神话 | |
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onset
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| n.进攻，袭击，开始，突然开始 | |
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61
severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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62
outlast
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| v.较…耐久 | |
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63
promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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64
precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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65
quenched
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| 解（渴）( quench的过去式和过去分词 )； 终止（某事物）； （用水）扑灭（火焰等）； 将（热物体）放入水中急速冷却 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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67
frigates
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| n.快速军舰( frigate的名词复数 ) | |
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fleeting
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| adj.短暂的，飞逝的 | |
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twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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71
transcribe
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| v.抄写，誉写；改编(乐曲)；复制，转录 | |
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72
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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domain
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| n.(活动等)领域，范围；领地，势力范围 | |
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74
mythology
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| n.神话，神话学，神话集 | |
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75
shrieking
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| v.尖叫( shriek的现在分词 ) | |
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76
oracles
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| 神示所( oracle的名词复数 )； 神谕； 圣贤； 哲人 | |
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77
enchanted
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| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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78
wont
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| adj.习惯于；v.习惯；n.习惯 | |
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delude
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| vt.欺骗；哄骗 | |
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80
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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81
fortress
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| n.堡垒，防御工事 | |
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82
gliding
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| v. 滑翔 adj. 滑动的 | |
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83
spectrally
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| adv.幽灵似地，可怕地 | |
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84
shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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85
ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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86
garrison
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| n.卫戍部队；驻地，卫戍区；vt.派(兵)驻防 | |
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87
antiquities
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| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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abound
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| vi.大量存在；(in，with)充满，富于 | |
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90
cactus
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| n.仙人掌 | |
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groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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walnuts
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| 胡桃（树）( walnut的名词复数 )； 胡桃木 | |
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interspersed
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| adj.[医]散开的；点缀的v.intersperse的过去式和过去分词 | |
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horde
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| n.群众，一大群 | |
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physically
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| adj.物质上，体格上，身体上，按自然规律 | |
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complexions
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| 肤色( complexion的名词复数 )； 面色； 局面； 性质 | |
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savage
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| adj.野蛮的；凶恶的，残暴的；n.未开化的人 | |
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ornament
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| v.装饰，美化；n.装饰，装饰物 | |
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99
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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100
miraculously
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| ad.奇迹般地 | |
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101
Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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102
trudging
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| vt.& vi.跋涉，吃力地走（trudge的现在分词形式） | |
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103
lugging
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| 超载运转能力 | |
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104
touching
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| adj.动人的，使人感伤的 | |
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105
locusts
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| n.蝗虫( locust的名词复数 )；贪吃的人；破坏者；槐树 | |
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106
plunder
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| vt.劫掠财物，掠夺；n.劫掠物，赃物；劫掠 | |
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107
pretence
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| n.假装，作假；借口，口实；虚伪；虚饰 | |
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108
labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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109
crumbling
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| adj.摇摇欲坠的 | |
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110
fortresses
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| 堡垒，要塞( fortress的名词复数 ) | |
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111
charlatan
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| n.骗子；江湖医生；假内行 | |
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112
hilarious
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| adj.充满笑声的，欢闹的；[反]depressed | |
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113
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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114
flaring
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| a.火焰摇曳的，过份艳丽的 | |
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115
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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116
underneath
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| adj.在...下面，在...底下；adv.在下面 | |
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117
ascending
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| adj.上升的，向上的 | |
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118
cataract
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| n.大瀑布，奔流，洪水，白内障 | |
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119
Moslem
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| n.回教徒，穆罕默德信徒；adj.回教徒的，回教的 | |
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120
nascent
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| adj.初生的，发生中的 | |
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121
aspires
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| v.渴望，追求( aspire的第三人称单数 ) | |
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122
trampled
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| 踩( trample的过去式和过去分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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123
longing
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| n.（for）渴望 | |
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