The ‘Green Dragon’ is a quaint9 gabled village inn, standing10 back from the road. It is even more ancient than any one, judging only from its exterior11, would suppose, for a fine fifteenth-century mantelpiece, adorned12 with carved crockets and heraldic roses, yet remains13 in the parlour, a relic14 of bygone importance.
As for Mrs. Lupin, the landlady, it is supposed that Dickens drew the character from a real person. If so, how one would like to have known that cheery woman. Do you remember how Tom Pinch left Salisbury to seek his fortune in London? and how Mrs. Lupin met the coach on the London road with his box in the trap, and a great basket of provisions, with a bottle of sherry sticking out of it? and how the open-handed fellow shared the cold roast fowl15, the packet of ham in slices, the crusty loaf, and the other half-dozen items—not forgetting the contents of the bottle—with the coachman and guard as they drove along the old road to London through the night?{185}
A WORD-PICTURE
‘Yoho, past hedges, gates, and trees; past cottages and barns, and people going home from work. Yoho, past donkey-chaises, drawn16 aside into the ditch, and empty carts with rampant17 horses, whipped up at a bound upon the little watercourse, and held by struggling carters close to the five-barred gate, until the coach had passed the narrow turning in the road. Yoho, by churches dropped down by themselves in quiet nooks, with rustic18 burial-grounds about them, where graves are green, and daisies sleep—for it is evening—on the bosoms19 of the dead. Yoho, past streams in which the cattle cool their feet, and where the rushes grow; past paddock-fences, farms and rick-yards; past last year’s stacks, cut slice by slice away, and showing in the waning20 light like ruined gables, old and brown. Yoho, down the pebbly21 dip, and through the merry water-splash, and up at a canter to the level road again. Yoho! Yoho!’
Quite so. And an excellent picture of the coaching age, although ‘Yoho!’ smacks22 too much of the sea for a coach. In his haste he wrote that word when he surely meant ‘Tallyho!’ Nor is this a correct portrait of the Exeter Road by any manner of means. Dickens, usually so precise in topographical details, has generalised here. A true and stirring picture of country roads in general, there are farms, and villages, and churches all too many for this highway. It should have been ‘Yoho! across the bleak23 and barren down. Yoho! by the blasted oak on the lonely common,’ and so forth24, so far as Andover, at any rate. And what was that{186} water-splash doing on a main road in the flower of the coaching age, when all the runnels and streams across the mail routes were duly bridged? But it is not very odd that Dickens should have been so inexact here, for he began Martin Chuzzlewit in 1843, and it was not until long after the book was published, in 1848, that he really explored the Exeter Road. Forster tells us that Dickens, in company with himself, Leech25, and Lemon, stayed at Salisbury in the March of that year, and ‘passed a March day in riding over every part of the Plain; visiting Stonehenge, and exploring Hazlitt’s “Hut” at Winterslow.’
It must be obvious how exquisitely26 fitted, both by reason of its situation and circumstances, ‘Winterslow Hut’ is for the novelist’s use, and that, had he explored it before, that wild spot would have found a place in the pages of Martin Chuzzlewit, together with detailed27 references to some of Salisbury’s old coaching inns, of which there were many, this being a meeting-place of several roads, besides being on the great highway to the West.
VANISHED INNS
So far back as 1786 there were three coaches passing through Salisbury on their way from London to Exeter, daily. Firstly, the ‘Post Coach’ every morning at eight o’clock, with the up coach to London every afternoon at four o’clock, Saturdays excepted. Secondly28, a mail coach, specially29 advertised as carrying a guard all the way, every morning at ten o’clock, Sundays excepted, and the up mail every night at ten o’clock, Saturdays excepted. Thirdly, a ‘Diligence,’ which passed through every night{187} about eight o’clock, the up coach at twelve, midnight. All these coaches stopped, and were horsed, at the ‘White Hart.’ In 1797 there were five coaches to and from London, daily, and three on alternate days; and three waggons30, two every day, the other on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.
In those times, when highwaymen were numerous and daring and travellers appropriately anxious, stage-coach proprietors31 in Salisbury advertised the fact of their conveyances32 being provided with an armed guard, and that any one making an attempt at robbery would be handed over to justice. But, notwithstanding such bold announcements, all the friends and relatives of citizens daring the journey to London used to assemble on the London road and tearfully watch the coaches as they toiled33 up Bishop34 Down and over the crest35 of Three Mile Hill, into the Unknown. The spot is still called ‘Weeping Cross.’
Of the old Salisbury coaching inns, a goodly number have been either pulled down or converted to other purposes. The ‘King’s Head,’ the ‘Maidenhead,’ the ‘Sun,’ the ‘Vine,’ the ‘Three Tuns,’ and others have entirely36 disappeared; and the ‘Spread Eagle,’ the ‘Lamb,’ ‘Three Cups,’ ‘Antelope,’ and the ‘George’—where Pepys stayed and was overcharged—have become shops or private residences; while the beautiful old ‘Three Swans’ was converted into a Temperance Hotel five years ago.
There is a passage in Sir William Knighton’s Diary under date of 1832, which, although written without any special emphasis, is highly picturesque37 and informative{188} on the subject of travelling at that time. It gives in one phrase a glimpse of the waiting-room which was a feature of all-coaching inns, and in another shows that it was possible to bargain for fares. Only in this instance the bargain was not struck.
He had come at half-past one in the morning into Salisbury by a cross-country coach, and waiting for the arrival of the mail to Exeter, ‘sat quietly by the fire in the common dirty room appropriated to coach passengers.’
For twenty minutes, he says, he had for companion a man who had just disengaged himself from an irritable38 rencontre with the coachman of the mail. He had waited from two o’clock in the afternoon to go on to Bristol, but when the time arrived he quarrelled with the coachman about whether he should pay nine shillings or twelve, the passenger insisting upon nine, the whip three shillings more; upon which the traveller decided39 not to go, returned to the coachroom, and ordered his bed. Sir William asked him if it really was worth while to lose the time and to pay for a bed at the inn over this unsuccessful negotiation40, and to this the man replied that it was not. ‘In fact,’ said he, ‘we have both been taken in. The coachman thought I would pay, and I thought he would take my offer.’
点击收听单词发音
1 landmarks | |
n.陆标( landmark的名词复数 );目标;(标志重要阶段的)里程碑 ~ (in sth);有历史意义的建筑物(或遗址) | |
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2 eminent | |
adj.显赫的,杰出的,有名的,优良的 | |
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3 landlady | |
n.女房东,女地主 | |
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4 vaguely | |
adv.含糊地,暖昧地 | |
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5 sleet | |
n.雨雪;v.下雨雪,下冰雹 | |
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6 gaudy | |
adj.华而不实的;俗丽的 | |
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7 monstrous | |
adj.巨大的;恐怖的;可耻的,丢脸的 | |
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8 hind | |
adj.后面的,后部的 | |
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9 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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10 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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11 exterior | |
adj.外部的,外在的;表面的 | |
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12 adorned | |
[计]被修饰的 | |
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13 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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14 relic | |
n.神圣的遗物,遗迹,纪念物 | |
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15 fowl | |
n.家禽,鸡,禽肉 | |
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16 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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17 rampant | |
adj.(植物)蔓生的;狂暴的,无约束的 | |
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18 rustic | |
adj.乡村的,有乡村特色的;n.乡下人,乡巴佬 | |
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19 bosoms | |
胸部( bosom的名词复数 ); 胸怀; 女衣胸部(或胸襟); 和爱护自己的人在一起的情形 | |
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20 waning | |
adj.(月亮)渐亏的,逐渐减弱或变小的n.月亏v.衰落( wane的现在分词 );(月)亏;变小;变暗淡 | |
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21 pebbly | |
多卵石的,有卵石花纹的 | |
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22 smacks | |
掌掴(声)( smack的名词复数 ); 海洛因; (打的)一拳; 打巴掌 | |
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23 bleak | |
adj.(天气)阴冷的;凄凉的;暗淡的 | |
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24 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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25 leech | |
n.水蛭,吸血鬼,榨取他人利益的人;vt.以水蛭吸血;vi.依附于别人 | |
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26 exquisitely | |
adv.精致地;强烈地;剧烈地;异常地 | |
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27 detailed | |
adj.详细的,详尽的,极注意细节的,完全的 | |
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28 secondly | |
adv.第二,其次 | |
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29 specially | |
adv.特定地;特殊地;明确地 | |
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30 waggons | |
四轮的运货马车( waggon的名词复数 ); 铁路货车; 小手推车 | |
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31 proprietors | |
n.所有人,业主( proprietor的名词复数 ) | |
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32 conveyances | |
n.传送( conveyance的名词复数 );运送;表达;运输工具 | |
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33 toiled | |
长时间或辛苦地工作( toil的过去式和过去分词 ); 艰难缓慢地移动,跋涉 | |
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34 bishop | |
n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
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35 crest | |
n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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36 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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37 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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38 irritable | |
adj.急躁的;过敏的;易怒的 | |
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39 decided | |
adj.决定了的,坚决的;明显的,明确的 | |
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40 negotiation | |
n.谈判,协商 | |
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