PEPYS AT OLD SARUM
Image unavailable: VIEW OF SALISBURY SPIRE1 FROM THE RAMPARTS OF OLD SARUM.
VIEW OF SALISBURY SPIRE FROM THE RAMPARTS OF OLD SARUM.
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other circumstances, be unduly2 extending the scope of this work to travel so far from the highway, we need have no compunction in making this trip, for it brings us to one of the most interesting places on the Amesbury and Ilminster route to Exeter—to Stonehenge, in fact, and passes by the wonderful terraced hill of Old Sarum. You can see Old Sarum looming3 ahead immediately after passing the outlying houses of Salisbury, and if you come upon it when a storm is impending4, as in Constable5’s picture, the impression of size and strength created is one not soon to be forgotten. As to coming upon it in the dark, as Pepys did, the sight is awe-inspiring.
Time and place conspired6 to frighten him. ‘So over the Plain,’ he says, ‘by the sight of the steeple, to Salisbury by night; but before I came to the town, I saw a great fortification, and there alighted, and to it, and in it; and find it prodigious7, so as to fright me to be in it all alone at that time of night, it being dark. I understand since it to lie that that is called Old Sarum.’
To climb the steep grassy8 ramparts, one after the other, and to descend9 into and climb out of the successive yawning ditches is a tiring exercise, but perhaps in no other way is it possible to gain anything like a proper idea of the strength of the place. Nor in there any more sure way of arriving at the relative scale of it than by observing the stray cyclist standing10 on the topmost ramparts and gazing toward the distant spire of Salisbury.
There are other things than ancient history that make Old Sarum memorable11. It was the head and{192} front of the electoral scandals that brought about the great Reform Act of 1832. Although it contained neither a single house nor an inhabitant, Old Sarum survived as a Parliamentary borough12 until that date, and regularly returned two members. Lord John Russell, introducing the Reform Bill to the House of Commons, remarked that Old Sarum was a green mound13 without a single habitation upon it, and like Gatton, also an uninhabited borough, returned two members, while great towns like Birmingham and Manchester were entirely14 without Parliamentary representation. The two members sent to Parliament were merely the nominees15 of the Lord of the Manor16, elected by two dummy17 electors who, shortly after each dissolution of Parliament, were granted leases in the borough of Old Sarum—leases known as ‘burgage tenures.’ Their voting done, they quietly surrendered their leases, which were not granted again until a like occasion arose. The elections took place at the ‘Parliament Tree,’ which, until 1896 (when it was blown down in a snowstorm), stood in a meadow between the mound and the village of ‘Stratford-under-the-Castle.’ It was supposed to have marked the site of the Town Hall of the vanished town. Cobbett, riding horseback past the spot, anathematised this ‘rotten borough’ and the system that allowed such things. He calls it ‘The Accursed Hill.’ The only house standing near is the ‘Old Castle Inn.’
Beyond it the road dips steeply to the downs, and so continues, with regular undulations, unsheltered from storms or frosts, or the fierce heat of the summer sun, to Amesbury.{193}
Image unavailable: OLD SARUM (AFTER CONSTABLE, R.A.).
OLD SARUM (AFTER CONSTABLE, R.A.).
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AMESBURY
Amesbury is a sheltered village, lying in a valley between these downs. It was on the alternative coach route taken by the ‘Telegraph,’ ‘Celerity,’ ‘Defiance,’ and ‘Subscription’ coaches, which, leaving Andover, came by Weyhill, Mullen’s Pond, and ‘Park House Inn.’ This way came the ‘Telegraph’ coach on its journey to London, 27th December 1836, through the thick of that terrible snowstorm of which we find copious18 mention on every one of the classic roads. It began when they reached Wincanton, and from that place they struggled on up to the Plain, where it was a white world of scurrying19 snowflakes, howling winds, and deep drifts. Down into Amesbury, and to the hospitable20 ‘George’ there, was but a momentary21 respite22, for the determined23 coachman, although immediately snowed up in the open country beyond the village, sent for help and, assisted by a team of six fresh post-horses with a post-boy to every pair, charged up the hills in the direction of Andover, with that fortune which is said to favour the brave. That is to say, he and His Majesty’s mails got through to London, where the story was duly chronicled in the papers of the period.
Here, or hereabouts, it was that the up Exeter ‘Celerity’ coach came into collision with the ‘Defiance’ at one o’clock in the morning of 25th July 1827, resulting in the death of a gentleman who was thrown off the roof of the ‘Celerity’ and instantly killed, and in serious injuries to others. Both coaches were overturned. The ‘Celerity’ coachman, according to the evidence at the subsequent trial, was to blame for reckless driving, and for endeavouring to take{196} too much of the road; but the lawyers found a flaw in the indictment24, which stated that he was driving three geldings and a mare25, and as it could not be proved that this description was correct, the matter dropped.
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1 spire | |
n.(教堂)尖顶,尖塔,高点 | |
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2 unduly | |
adv.过度地,不适当地 | |
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3 looming | |
n.上现蜃景(光通过低层大气发生异常折射形成的一种海市蜃楼)v.隐约出现,阴森地逼近( loom的现在分词 );隐约出现,阴森地逼近 | |
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4 impending | |
a.imminent, about to come or happen | |
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5 constable | |
n.(英国)警察,警官 | |
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6 conspired | |
密谋( conspire的过去式和过去分词 ); 搞阴谋; (事件等)巧合; 共同导致 | |
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7 prodigious | |
adj.惊人的,奇妙的;异常的;巨大的;庞大的 | |
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8 grassy | |
adj.盖满草的;长满草的 | |
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9 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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10 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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11 memorable | |
adj.值得回忆的,难忘的,特别的,显著的 | |
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12 borough | |
n.享有自治权的市镇;(英)自治市镇 | |
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13 mound | |
n.土墩,堤,小山;v.筑堤,用土堆防卫 | |
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14 entirely | |
ad.全部地,完整地;完全地,彻底地 | |
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15 nominees | |
n.被提名者,被任命者( nominee的名词复数 ) | |
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16 manor | |
n.庄园,领地 | |
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17 dummy | |
n.假的东西;(哄婴儿的)橡皮奶头 | |
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18 copious | |
adj.丰富的,大量的 | |
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19 scurrying | |
v.急匆匆地走( scurry的现在分词 ) | |
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20 hospitable | |
adj.好客的;宽容的;有利的,适宜的 | |
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21 momentary | |
adj.片刻的,瞬息的;短暂的 | |
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22 respite | |
n.休息,中止,暂缓 | |
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23 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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24 indictment | |
n.起诉;诉状 | |
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25 mare | |
n.母马,母驴 | |
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