Half a mile beyond the village, a railed enclosure on the strip of grass on the left-hand side of the road attracts the wayfarer’s notice. This serves to protect from the attentions of the stone-breaker a group of eight prehistoric8 stones called the ‘Broad Stone.’{281}
THE RUSSELLS
Image unavailable: WINTERBORNE ABBAS.
WINTERBORNE ABBAS.
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The largest is 10 feet long by 5 feet, and 2 feet thick, lying down. A notice informs all who care to know that this group is constituted by the owner, according to the Act of Parliament, an ‘Ancient Monument.’ The cynically-minded might well say that the hundreds of similar ‘ancient monuments’ with which the neighbouring downs are peppered might also be railed off, to give a welcome fillip to the trade in iron fencing, and certainly this caretaking of every misshapen stone without a story is the New Idolatry.
Just beyond this point is the castellated lodge9 of the park of Bridehead, embowered amid trees. The place obtains its name from the little river Bride or Bredy which rises in the grounds and flows away to enter the sea at Burton (= ‘Bride-town’) Bradstock, eight miles away; passing in its course the two other places named from it, Little Bredy and Long Bredy.
Now the road rises again, and ascends10 wild unenclosed downs which gradually assume a stern, and even mountainous, character. Amid this panorama11, in the deep hollows below these stone-strewn heights, are gracious wooded dells, doubly beautiful by contrast. In the still and sheltered nooks of these sequestered12 spots the primrose13 blooms early, and frosts come seldom, while the uplands are covered with snow or swept with bleak14 winds that freeze the traveller’s very marrow15. One of these gardens in the wilderness16 is Kingston Russell, the spot whence the Russells, now Dukes of Bedford, sprang from obscurity into wealth and power. Deep down in their retirement17, the world (or such small proportion of it as travelled in those days) passed unobserved, though{284} not far removed. For generations the Russells had inhabited their old manor-house here, and might have done so, in undistinguished fashion, for many years more, had it not been for the chance which brought John Russell into prominence18 and preferment in 1502. He was the Founder19 of the House and died an Earl, with vast estates, the spoil of the Church, showered upon him. He was the first of all the Russells to exhibit that gift of ‘getting on’ which his descendants have almost uniformly inherited. Unlike him, however, they have rarely commanded affection, and the Dukes of Bedford, with much reason, figure in the public eye as paragons20 of meanness and parsimony21.
Image unavailable: KINGSTON RUSSELL.
KINGSTON RUSSELL.
At the cross roads, where on the left the bye-path leads steeply down the sides of these immemorial hills to Long Bredy, and on the right in the direction of Maiden22 Newton, used to stand Long Bredy Gate and the ‘Hut Inn.’ Here the high-road is continued{285}
Image unavailable: CHILCOMBE CHURCH.
CHILCOMBE CHURCH.
CHILCOMBE
along the very backbone23 of the ridge24, exposed to all the rigours of the elements. To add to the weird25 aspect of the scene, barrows and tumuli are scattered26 about in profusion27. We now come to a turning on the left hand called ‘Cuckold’s Corner,’ why, no legend survives to tell us. Steeply this lane leads to the downs that roll away boldly to the sea, coming in little over a mile to ‘chilly Chilcombe,’ a tiny hamlet with a correspondingly tiny church tucked away among the great rounded shoulders of the hills, but not so securely sheltered but that the eager winds find their way to it and render both name and epithet28 eminently29 descriptive. The population of Chilcombe, according to the latest census30, is twenty-four, and the houses six; and it is, accordingly, quite in order that the church should be regarded as the smallest{286} in England. There are many of these ‘smallest churches,’ and the question as to which really deserves the title is not likely to be determined31 until an expedition is fitted out to visit all these rival claimants, and to accurately32 measure them. Of course the remaining portions of a church are not eligible33 for inclusion in this category. Chilcombe, however, is a complete example. The hamlet was never, in all probability, more populous34 than it is now, and the church certainly was never larger. Originally Norman, it underwent some alterations35 in the late Perpendicular36 period. The measurements are: nave37 22 feet in length, chancel 13 feet. It is a picturesque6 though unassuming little building, without a tower, but provided instead with a quaint38 old stone bell-cote on the west gable. This gives the old church the appearance of some ancient ecclesiastical pigeon-house. The bell within is dated 1656. The very fine and unusual altar-piece of dark walnut39 wood, with scenes from the life of Christ, is credibly40 reported to have been brought here from one of the ships of the ‘Invincible Armada,’ known to have been wrecked41 on the beach at Burton Bradstock, some three miles away.
Returning to the highway at ‘Cuckold’s Corner,’ we come to ‘Traveller’s Rest,’ now a wayside inn on the left hand, situated42 on the tremendous descent which commences a mile beyond Long Bredy turnpike, and goes practically down into Bridport’s long street; a distance of five miles, with a fall from 702 feet above the sea, to 253 feet at ‘Traveller’s Rest,’ two miles farther on, and eventually to sea-level at{287}
HILLS ROUND BRIDPORT
Image unavailable: ‘TRAVELLER’S REST.’
‘TRAVELLER’S REST.’
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Bridport, with several curves in the road and an intermediate ascent43 or two between this point and the town. The cyclist who cares to take his courage in both hands, and has no desire to linger over perhaps one of the most magnificent scenic44 panoramas45 in England, can coast down this long stretch with the speed of the wind, and chance the result. But it is better to loiter here, for none of the great high-roads has anything like this scenery to show. From away up the road the eye ranges over a vast stretch of country westwards. South-west lies the Channel, dazzling like a burnished46 mirror if you come here at the psychological moment for this view—that is to say, the late afternoon of a summer’s day; with the strangely contorted shapes of the hills round about suggesting volcanic47 origin, and casting cool shadows far down into the sheltered coombes that have been baking in the sun all day long. Near at hand is Shipton Beacon48, rising almost immediately beyond ‘Traveller’s Rest,’ and looking oddly from some points of view like some gigantic ship’s hull49 lying keel uppermost. Beyond are Puncknoll and Hammerdon, and away in the distance, with the Channel sparkling behind it, and the sun making a halo for its head, overlooking the sea at a height of 615 feet, the grand crest50 of Golden Cap, which some hold to be so named from this circumstance, while others have it that the picturesque title derives51 from the yellow gorse that grows on its summit. To the right hand rises the natural rampart of Eggardon, additionally fortified52 by art, a thousand years ago, whether by Briton, Dane, or Saxon, let those determine{290} who will, with the village of Askerswell lying deep down, immediately under this ridge on which the road goes, the roof of its village church tower apparently so near that you could drop a stone neatly53 on to its leads. But ‘one trial will suffice,’ as the advertisements of much-puffed articles say, for the stone goes no nearer than about a quarter of a mile.
Very charming, this panorama, on a summer’s day; but how about the winters’ nights, in the times when the ‘Traveller’s Rest’ was better named than now; when the coaches halted here, and coachmen, guards, and passengers alike, half-frozen and breathless from the blusterous heights of Long Bredy, tumbled out for something warming? For this hillside was reputed to be the coldest part of the journey between London and Exeter, and it may be readily enough supposed by all who have seen the spot, that this was indeed the fact.
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1 plentifully | |
adv. 许多地,丰饶地 | |
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2 wilts | |
(使)凋谢,枯萎( wilt的第三人称单数 ) | |
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3 treacherous | |
adj.不可靠的,有暗藏的危险的;adj.背叛的,背信弃义的 | |
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4 remodelled | |
v.改变…的结构[形状]( remodel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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5 apparently | |
adv.显然地;表面上,似乎 | |
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6 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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7 picturesquely | |
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8 prehistoric | |
adj.(有记载的)历史以前的,史前的,古老的 | |
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9 lodge | |
v.临时住宿,寄宿,寄存,容纳;n.传达室,小旅馆 | |
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10 ascends | |
v.上升,攀登( ascend的第三人称单数 ) | |
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11 panorama | |
n.全景,全景画,全景摄影,全景照片[装置] | |
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12 sequestered | |
adj.扣押的;隐退的;幽静的;偏僻的v.使隔绝,使隔离( sequester的过去式和过去分词 );扣押 | |
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13 primrose | |
n.樱草,最佳部分, | |
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14 bleak | |
adj.(天气)阴冷的;凄凉的;暗淡的 | |
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15 marrow | |
n.骨髓;精华;活力 | |
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16 wilderness | |
n.杳无人烟的一片陆地、水等,荒漠 | |
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17 retirement | |
n.退休,退职 | |
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18 prominence | |
n.突出;显著;杰出;重要 | |
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19 Founder | |
n.创始者,缔造者 | |
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20 paragons | |
n.模范( paragon的名词复数 );典型;十全十美的人;完美无缺的人 | |
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21 parsimony | |
n.过度节俭,吝啬 | |
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22 maiden | |
n.少女,处女;adj.未婚的,纯洁的,无经验的 | |
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23 backbone | |
n.脊骨,脊柱,骨干;刚毅,骨气 | |
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24 ridge | |
n.山脊;鼻梁;分水岭 | |
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25 weird | |
adj.古怪的,离奇的;怪诞的,神秘而可怕的 | |
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26 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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27 profusion | |
n.挥霍;丰富 | |
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28 epithet | |
n.(用于褒贬人物等的)表述形容词,修饰语 | |
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29 eminently | |
adv.突出地;显著地;不寻常地 | |
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30 census | |
n.(官方的)人口调查,人口普查 | |
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31 determined | |
adj.坚定的;有决心的 | |
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32 accurately | |
adv.准确地,精确地 | |
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33 eligible | |
adj.有条件被选中的;(尤指婚姻等)合适(意)的 | |
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34 populous | |
adj.人口稠密的,人口众多的 | |
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35 alterations | |
n.改动( alteration的名词复数 );更改;变化;改变 | |
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36 perpendicular | |
adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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37 nave | |
n.教堂的中部;本堂 | |
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38 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
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39 walnut | |
n.胡桃,胡桃木,胡桃色,茶色 | |
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40 credibly | |
ad.可信地;可靠地 | |
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41 wrecked | |
adj.失事的,遇难的 | |
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42 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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43 ascent | |
n.(声望或地位)提高;上升,升高;登高 | |
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44 scenic | |
adj.自然景色的,景色优美的 | |
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45 panoramas | |
全景画( panorama的名词复数 ); 全景照片; 一连串景象或事 | |
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46 burnished | |
adj.抛光的,光亮的v.擦亮(金属等),磨光( burnish的过去式和过去分词 );被擦亮,磨光 | |
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47 volcanic | |
adj.火山的;象火山的;由火山引起的 | |
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48 beacon | |
n.烽火,(警告用的)闪火灯,灯塔 | |
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49 hull | |
n.船身;(果、实等的)外壳;vt.去(谷物等)壳 | |
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50 crest | |
n.顶点;饰章;羽冠;vt.达到顶点;vi.形成浪尖 | |
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51 derives | |
v.得到( derive的第三人称单数 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
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52 fortified | |
adj. 加强的 | |
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53 neatly | |
adv.整洁地,干净地,灵巧地,熟练地 | |
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