BRIDPORT
At Bridport, nine miles from the Devon border, the country already begins to lose something of the Dorset character, and to look like the county of junket and clotted3 cream. As for the town, it is{291} difficult to say what character it possesses, for its featureless High Street is redeemed4 only from tediousness by the belfry of the Town Hall which, with the fine westward5 view, including the conical height of Colmer’s Hill and the high table-land of Eype to the left, serves to compose the whole into something remotely resembling an effect.
Bridport is a town which would very much like to be on the sea, but is, as a matter of fact, situated6 rather over a mile from it. Just where the little river Bredy runs out and the sea comes banging furiously in, is a forlorn concourse of houses sheltering abjectly7 one behind the other, called variously Bridport Harbour and West Bay. This is the real port, but it matters little, or nothing at all, by what name you call the place; it remains8 more like a Port Desolation.
Bridport almost distinguished9 itself in 1651 by the fugitive10 Charles the Second having been nearly captured at the ‘George Inn’ by the Harbour, an ostler recognising his face, which, it must be conceded, was one that once seen could scarce have been mistaken when again met with. Charles was then trying to reach the coast after the disastrous11 battle of Worcester, and it is quite certain that if Cromwell’s troopers had laid their hands on him, there would never have been any Charles the Second in English history.
The tragical12 comedy of the Stuarts throws a glamour13 over the Exeter Road to its very end. The fugitive Charles, fleeing before the inquisitive14 stare of the ostler, is a striking picture; and so, thirty-four years later, is the coming of his partly acknowledged son, the Duke of Monmouth, to upset James the{292} Second. Bridport was seized, and one of the ‘Monmouth men’ slew15 Edward Coker, gentleman, of Mappowder, on the 14th of June 1685, as the memorial tablet to that slaughtered16 worthy17 in Bridport parish church duly recounts. For their share in the rebellion, a round dozen of Bridport men were hanged before the eyes of their neighbours, ‘stabbed,’ as the ancient slang phrase has it, ‘with a Bridport dagger18.’ The ghastly imagery of this saying derives19 from the old-time local manufacture of rope, twine20, and string, and the cultivation21 of hemp22 in the surrounding country. Rope-and twine-walks still remain in the town.
Leaving Bridport behind, the coach passengers by this route presently came to its most wildly romantic part; only it is sad to reflect that the travellers of a hundred years ago had not the slightest appreciation23 of this kind of thing.
Through Bridport’s stony24 lanes our way we take,
And the proud steep descend25 to Morcombe’s lake.
Thus the poet Gay, but he writes from the horseman’s point of view, and if he had bruised26 his bones along this road in the lurching Exeter Fly, his tone would probably have been less breezy. Travellers, indeed, looked upon hills with loathing27, and upon solitude28 (notwithstanding the poets of the time) with disgust; therefore it may well be supposed that when they came to the rugged29 scenery around Morecomblake, and the next village Chideock (called locally ‘Chiddick’), they did not enjoy themselves.
A ROYAL FUGITIVE
Here Stonebarrow Hill and Golden Cap, with many{293} lesser30 eminences31, frown down upon the steep highway on every side, and render the scenery nothing less than mountainous, so that strangers in these parts, overcome with ‘terrour’ and apprehensions32 of worse to come, wished themselves safe housed in the roadside inn of Morecomblake, whose hospitable33 sign gave, and still gives, promise of good entertainment.
Image unavailable: CHIDEOCK.
CHIDEOCK.
The run down into Charmouth from this point is a breakneck one. At this remote seaside place, in that same year, 1651, Charles the Second had another narrow escape. Travelling in bye-ways from the disastrous field of Worcester on horseback, with his staunch friends, Lord Wilmot and Colonel Wyndham, arrangements had been made with the master of a trading vessel34 hailing from Lyme, to put in at Charmouth with a boat in the stillness of the night. But they had reckoned without taking into account either the simplicity35 of the sailor, or the inquisitiveness{294} of his wife, who wormed the secret out of him, of his being engaged in this mysterious affair with a party of strangers. All the country was ringing with the escape of Charles from Worcester and the hue36 and cry after him, and the woman rightly guessed whom these people might be. She effectually prevented her husband from putting in an appearance by the threat that if he made any such attempt she would inform the magistrate38.
Image unavailable: SIGN OF THE ‘SHIP,’ MORECOMBLAKE.
SIGN OF THE ‘SHIP,’ MORECOMBLAKE.
Wearied with watching for the promised boat, the King’s companions reluctantly had to make Charmouth the resting-place of the party for the night. In the morning it was found that the King’s horse had cast a shoe. When it was taken to the blacksmith, that worthy remarked the quaint39 circumstance that the three others had been replaced in three different counties, and one of these three in Worcestershire.{295}
ALARUMS AND EXCURSIONS
When Charles heard that awkward discovery he was off in haste, for if a rural blacksmith was clever enough to discover so much, it was quite possible that he might apply his knowledge in a very embarrassing manner.
The little band had not hurried away a moment too soon, for the ostler of the inn (what Sherlock Holmes’s all these Dorsetshire folks were, to be sure!) who had already arrived independently at the conclusion that this was King Charles, had in the meanwhile gone to the Rev37. Bartholomew Wesley, a local Roundhead divine, and told him his thoughts. Thence to the inn, where legends tell us the landlady40 gave Mr. Wesley a fine full-flavoured piece of her mind, and so eventually to the ears of a captain of horse, this wondrous41 news spread. Horsemen scoured42 the country; clergyman returned home to think over the loyal landlady’s abuse; ostler, probably dismissed, had leisure to curse his officiousness; while King and companions were off, whip and spur, to Bridport, whence, after that alarming recognition at the Harbour, to Broadwinsor.
Image unavailable: INTERIOR OF THE ‘QUEEN’S ARMS,’ CHARMOUTH.
INTERIOR OF THE ‘QUEEN’S ARMS,’ CHARMOUTH.
This historic Charmouth inn is still existing. The ‘Anchor,’ as it is now known, was for many years the ‘Queen’s Arms,’ but although the sign has thus{296} been altered and half of the building partitioned off as a separate house, the interior remains very much the same as it was then, and the original rough, stone-flagged passages, dark panelling, and deep-embrasured windows add a convincing touch to the story of the King’s flight through England with a price on his head.
For the rest, Charmouth, which stands where the tiny river Char2 empties itself into the sea, consists of one long street of mutually antagonistic43 houses, of all shapes, sizes, and materials, and is the very exemplar of a fishing village turned into an inchoate44 seaside resort. But a sunny, sheltered, and pleasing spot.
On leaving Charmouth, the road begins to ascend45 again, and leaves Dorsetshire for Devon through a tunnel cut in the hillside, called the ‘New Passage,’ coming in four miles to ‘Hunter’s Lodge46 Inn,’ picturesquely47 set amid a forest of pine trees. From this point it is two and a half miles on to Axminster, a town which still gives a name to a particular make of carpets, although since 1835 the local factories have been closed and the industry transferred to Wilton, in Wiltshire. It was in 1755 that the industry was started here.
SHUTE HILL
There is one fine old coaching inn, the ‘George,’ at Axminster, with huge rambling48 stables and interminable corridors, in which one ought to meet the ghosts of departed travellers on the Exeter Road. But they are shy. There should, in fact, be many ghosts in this old town of many memories; and so there are, to that clairvoyant49 optic, the ‘mind’s eye.’ But they refuse to materialise to the physical organ, and it is only to a vivid imagination that the streets{297} are repeopled with the excited peasantry who, in that fatal summer of 1685, flocked to the standard of the Duke of Monmouth, whom ‘the Lord raised vp’ as the still existing manuscript narrative50 of an Axminster dissenting51 minister says, to champion the Protestant religion—with what results we already know.
Pleasant meadow-lands lead by flat and shaded roads from Axminster by the river Axe52 to Axmouth, Seaton, and the sea, but our way continues inland.
点击收听单词发音
1 traction | |
n.牵引;附着摩擦力 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
2 char | |
v.烧焦;使...燃烧成焦炭 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
3 clotted | |
adj.凝结的v.凝固( clot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
4 redeemed | |
adj. 可赎回的,可救赎的 动词redeem的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
5 westward | |
n.西方,西部;adj.西方的,向西的;adv.向西 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
6 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
7 abjectly | |
凄惨地; 绝望地; 糟透地; 悲惨地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
8 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
9 distinguished | |
adj.卓越的,杰出的,著名的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
10 fugitive | |
adj.逃亡的,易逝的;n.逃犯,逃亡者 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
11 disastrous | |
adj.灾难性的,造成灾害的;极坏的,很糟的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
12 tragical | |
adj. 悲剧的, 悲剧性的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
13 glamour | |
n.魔力,魅力;vt.迷住 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
14 inquisitive | |
adj.求知欲强的,好奇的,好寻根究底的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
15 slew | |
v.(使)旋转;n.大量,许多 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
16 slaughtered | |
v.屠杀,杀戮,屠宰( slaughter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
参考例句: |
|
|
17 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
18 dagger | |
n.匕首,短剑,剑号 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
19 derives | |
v.得到( derive的第三人称单数 );(从…中)得到获得;源于;(从…中)提取 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
20 twine | |
v.搓,织,编饰;(使)缠绕 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
21 cultivation | |
n.耕作,培养,栽培(法),养成 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
22 hemp | |
n.大麻;纤维 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
23 appreciation | |
n.评价;欣赏;感谢;领会,理解;价格上涨 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
24 stony | |
adj.石头的,多石头的,冷酷的,无情的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
25 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
26 bruised | |
[医]青肿的,瘀紫的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
27 loathing | |
n.厌恶,憎恨v.憎恨,厌恶( loathe的现在分词);极不喜欢 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
28 solitude | |
n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
29 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
30 lesser | |
adj.次要的,较小的;adv.较小地,较少地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
31 eminences | |
卓越( eminence的名词复数 ); 著名; 高地; 山丘 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
32 apprehensions | |
疑惧 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
33 hospitable | |
adj.好客的;宽容的;有利的,适宜的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
34 vessel | |
n.船舶;容器,器皿;管,导管,血管 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
35 simplicity | |
n.简单,简易;朴素;直率,单纯 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
36 hue | |
n.色度;色调;样子 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
37 rev | |
v.发动机旋转,加快速度 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
38 magistrate | |
n.地方行政官,地方法官,治安官 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
39 quaint | |
adj.古雅的,离奇有趣的,奇怪的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
40 landlady | |
n.女房东,女地主 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
41 wondrous | |
adj.令人惊奇的,奇妙的;adv.惊人地;异乎寻常地;令人惊叹地 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
42 scoured | |
走遍(某地)搜寻(人或物)( scour的过去式和过去分词 ); (用力)刷; 擦净; 擦亮 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
43 antagonistic | |
adj.敌对的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
44 inchoate | |
adj.才开始的,初期的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
45 ascend | |
vi.渐渐上升,升高;vt.攀登,登上 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
46 lodge | |
v.临时住宿,寄宿,寄存,容纳;n.传达室,小旅馆 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
47 picturesquely | |
参考例句: |
|
|
48 rambling | |
adj.[建]凌乱的,杂乱的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
49 clairvoyant | |
adj.有预见的;n.有预见的人 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
50 narrative | |
n.叙述,故事;adj.叙事的,故事体的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
51 dissenting | |
adj.不同意的 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
52 axe | |
n.斧子;v.用斧头砍,削减 | |
参考例句: |
|
|
欢迎访问英文小说网 |