The first hill is soon met with, on passing over the river Yart. This is Shute Hill, where the coaches generally were upset, if either the coachman or the horses were at all ‘fresh.’ Then it is a long run down to Kilmington, where the travellers, having recovered their hearts from their boots or their throats, according to their temperaments1, and found their breath, promptly2 cursed those coachmen and threatened them with all manner of pains and penalties for reckless driving. Thence, by way of Wilmington, to Honiton.{298}
A quarter of a mile before reaching that town the traveller comes upon a singular debased Gothic toll3-house. If he walks or cycles he may pass freely, but all carts and cattle have still to pay toll. This queer survival is known as King’s Road Gate, or by the more popular name of ‘Copper4 Castle,’ from its once having a peaked copper roof above its carpenter-gothic battlements.
Image unavailable: ‘COPPER CASTLE.’
‘COPPER CASTLE.’
THE LAST COACH
Honiton, whose name is locally ‘Honeyton,’ is a singularly uninteresting town, with its mother-parish church half a mile away from the one broad street that forms practically the whole of the place. Clean, quiet, and neither very old nor very new, so far as outward appearance goes, Honiton must be of a positively5 deadly dulness to the tourist on a rainy day; when to go out of doors is to get wet, and to remain in, thrown on the slender resources for amusement afforded by the local papers and the ten-years-old{299} county directory in the hotel coffee-room, is a weariness.
Once a year, during Honiton Great Fair, this long, empty street is not too wide; but all the year round, and every year, the broad highway hence on to Exeter is a world too spacious6 for its shrunken traffic. Broad selvedges of grass encroach as slyly as a land-grabbing, enclosing country gentleman upon this generous width of macadamised surface, and are allowed their will of all but a narrow strip sufficient for the present needs of the traffic. It is fifty-five years since the Great Western Railway was opened through to Exeter, and during that more than half a century these long reaches of the road have been deserted7. Do belated cyclists, wheeling on moonlit nights along this tree-shaded road, ever conjure8 up a picture of the last mail down; the farewells at the inns, the cottagers standing9 at their doors, or leaning out of their windows, to see the visible passing away of an epoch10; the flashing of the lamps past the hedgerows, and the last faint echoes of the horn sounding in melancholy11 fashion a mile away? If they do not, why then they must be sadly lacking in imagination, or ill-read in the Story of the Roads.
Where the roads branch in puzzling fashion, four and a half miles from Honiton, and all ways seem to lead to Exeter, there stands on the grassy12 plot at the fork a roadside monument to a missionary13 bishop14, Dr. Patteson, who, born 1st April 1827, met martyrdom, together with two other workers in the missionfield, in New Zealand, in 1871. He was the eldest15 son of Sir John Patteson, of Feniton Court, near by,{300} hence the placing of this brick and stone column here, surmounted16 by a cross, and plentifully17 inscribed18 with texts. The story of his and his friends’ death is set forth19 as having been ‘in vengeance20 for wrongs suffered at the hands of Europeans by savage21 men whom he loved and for whose sake he gave up home and country and friends dearer than his life.’
This memorial also serves the turn of finger-post, for directions are carved on its four sides; and very necessary too, for where two roads go to Exeter, the one by Ottery St. Mary some two miles longer than the other, the passing rustic23 is not wholly to be depended upon for clear and concise24 information. Cobbett in his day found that exasperating25 direction of the rustics26 to the inquiring wayfarer27, to ‘keep straight on,’ just as great a delusion28 as the tourist now discovers it to be. The formula, according to him, was a little different in his time, being ‘keep right on.’
‘Aye,’ says he, ‘but in ten minutes, perhaps, you come to a Y or a T, or to a X. A fellow once told me, in my way from Chertsey to Guildford, “keep right on, you can’t miss your way.” I was in the perpendicular29 part of the T, and the top part was only a few yards from me. “Right on,” said I, “what, over that bank into the wheat?”—“No, no,” said he, “I mean that road, to be sure,” pointing to the road that went off to the left.’
Here a branch of the river Otter22 crosses the road in the wooded dell of Fenny30 Bridges, and in the course of another mile, on the banks of another stream, stands the ‘Fair Mile Inn,’ the last stage into{301}
EXETER
Image unavailable: ‘THE LONG REACHES OF THE EXETER ROAD.’
‘THE LONG REACHES OF THE EXETER ROAD.’
{302}
{303}
Exeter in coaching times. Lonely the road remains31, passing the scattered32 cottages of Rockbeare, and the depressing outlying houses of Honiton Clyst, situated33 on the little river Clyst, with the first of the characteristic old red sandstone church-towers of the South Devon looking down upon the road from the midst of embowering foliage34. Then the squalid east end of Exeter and the long street of Heavitree, where Exeter burnt her martyrs35, come into view, and there, away in front, with its skyline of towers and spires36, is Exeter, displayed in profile for the admiration37 of all who have journeyed these many miles to where she sits in regal grandeur38 upon her hill that descends39 until its feet are bathed in the waters of her godmother, the Exe. Her streets are steep and her site dignified40, although it is partly the level range of the surrounding country, rather than an intrinsic height, which confers that look of majesty41 which all travellers have noticed. The ancient city rises impressive in contrast with the water-meadows, rather than by reason of actual measurement. Wayfarers42 approaching from any direction brace43 themselves and draw deep breaths preparatory to scaling the streets, which, at a distance, assume abrupt44 vistas45. Villas46, with spacious gardens, and snug47, prebendal-looking houses, eloquent48 of a thousand a year and cellars full of old port, clothe the lower slopes of this rising ground, to give place, by degrees, to streets which, as the traveller advances, grow narrower and more crooked49, their lines of houses becoming ever older, more picturesque50, and loftier as they near the heart of the city. Modernity inhabits the environs, antiquity51 is{304} seated, impressive, in the centre, where, on a plateau, closely hemmed52 in from the bustling53, secular54 life of the streets, rises the sombre mass of the cathedral, the pride of this western land.
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1 temperaments | |
性格( temperament的名词复数 ); (人或动物的)气质; 易冲动; (性情)暴躁 | |
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2 promptly | |
adv.及时地,敏捷地 | |
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3 toll | |
n.过路(桥)费;损失,伤亡人数;v.敲(钟) | |
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4 copper | |
n.铜;铜币;铜器;adj.铜(制)的;(紫)铜色的 | |
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5 positively | |
adv.明确地,断然,坚决地;实在,确实 | |
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6 spacious | |
adj.广阔的,宽敞的 | |
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7 deserted | |
adj.荒芜的,荒废的,无人的,被遗弃的 | |
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8 conjure | |
v.恳求,祈求;变魔术,变戏法 | |
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9 standing | |
n.持续,地位;adj.永久的,不动的,直立的,不流动的 | |
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10 epoch | |
n.(新)时代;历元 | |
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11 melancholy | |
n.忧郁,愁思;adj.令人感伤(沮丧)的,忧郁的 | |
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12 grassy | |
adj.盖满草的;长满草的 | |
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13 missionary | |
adj.教会的,传教(士)的;n.传教士 | |
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14 bishop | |
n.主教,(国际象棋)象 | |
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15 eldest | |
adj.最年长的,最年老的 | |
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16 surmounted | |
战胜( surmount的过去式和过去分词 ); 克服(困难); 居于…之上; 在…顶上 | |
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17 plentifully | |
adv. 许多地,丰饶地 | |
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18 inscribed | |
v.写,刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 );内接 | |
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19 forth | |
adv.向前;向外,往外 | |
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20 vengeance | |
n.报复,报仇,复仇 | |
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21 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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22 otter | |
n.水獭 | |
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23 rustic | |
adj.乡村的,有乡村特色的;n.乡下人,乡巴佬 | |
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24 concise | |
adj.简洁的,简明的 | |
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25 exasperating | |
adj. 激怒的 动词exasperate的现在分词形式 | |
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26 rustics | |
n.有农村或村民特色的( rustic的名词复数 );粗野的;不雅的;用粗糙的木材或树枝制作的 | |
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27 wayfarer | |
n.旅人 | |
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28 delusion | |
n.谬见,欺骗,幻觉,迷惑 | |
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29 perpendicular | |
adj.垂直的,直立的;n.垂直线,垂直的位置 | |
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30 fenny | |
adj.沼泽的;沼泽多的;长在沼泽地带的;住在沼泽地的 | |
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31 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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32 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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33 situated | |
adj.坐落在...的,处于某种境地的 | |
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34 foliage | |
n.叶子,树叶,簇叶 | |
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35 martyrs | |
n.martyr的复数形式;烈士( martyr的名词复数 );殉道者;殉教者;乞怜者(向人诉苦以博取同情) | |
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36 spires | |
n.(教堂的) 塔尖,尖顶( spire的名词复数 ) | |
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37 admiration | |
n.钦佩,赞美,羡慕 | |
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38 grandeur | |
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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39 descends | |
v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 );下去;下降;下斜 | |
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40 dignified | |
a.可敬的,高贵的 | |
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41 majesty | |
n.雄伟,壮丽,庄严,威严;最高权威,王权 | |
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42 wayfarers | |
n.旅人,(尤指)徒步旅行者( wayfarer的名词复数 ) | |
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43 brace | |
n. 支柱,曲柄,大括号; v. 绷紧,顶住,(为困难或坏事)做准备 | |
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44 abrupt | |
adj.突然的,意外的;唐突的,鲁莽的 | |
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45 vistas | |
长条形景色( vista的名词复数 ); 回顾; 展望; (未来可能发生的)一系列情景 | |
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46 villas | |
别墅,公馆( villa的名词复数 ); (城郊)住宅 | |
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47 snug | |
adj.温暖舒适的,合身的,安全的;v.使整洁干净,舒适地依靠,紧贴;n.(英)酒吧里的私房 | |
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48 eloquent | |
adj.雄辩的,口才流利的;明白显示出的 | |
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49 crooked | |
adj.弯曲的;不诚实的,狡猾的,不正当的 | |
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50 picturesque | |
adj.美丽如画的,(语言)生动的,绘声绘色的 | |
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51 antiquity | |
n.古老;高龄;古物,古迹 | |
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52 hemmed | |
缝…的褶边( hem的过去式和过去分词 ); 包围 | |
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53 bustling | |
adj.喧闹的 | |
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54 secular | |
n.牧师,凡人;adj.世俗的,现世的,不朽的 | |
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