Then boast no more your mighty2 deeds;
Upon Death’s purple altar now
See where the victor-victim bleeds:
Your heads must come
To the cold tomb;
Only the actions of the just
Smell sweet, and blossom in their dust.
J. Shirley.
The actual spot on which the scaffold was erected3 on the hill is marked, in the garden by which it is now surrounded, by a square of stone paving set in the turf just within the gate on the south-western side of the enclosure. Happy children skip and play on this blood-stained bit of ground; the flowers leap up in April and the birds make melody in May; Nature has healed the sore and done lavishly4 to make us forget, by her gifts, that here was the scene of angry mobs crying for the slaughter5 of some of the nation’s noblest men. The{154} block was set up on a high wooden platform so that the ceremony of decapitation was performed well above the heads of the dense6 crowd that gathered on the hill when the more notable Tower prisoners were brought here to die. It is stated that during the making of the tunnel that goes through Tower Hill to-day the wooden foundations of the scaffold were discovered, and also, near by, the remains7 of two victims whose bodies had been interred8 there. Neither the imbedded timber nor the human bones were disturbed, and both still lie beneath the turf to fix accurately9 the spot of execution. Tower Hill seems to have possessed10 a gallows11 also, for we find frequent record of criminals being “hanged in chains” there, either for State or other offences. Under an oak tree that grew on the slope towards the Tower gateway12, the public stocks stood, and in the vestry minutes of Allhallows Barking, under the date December 16, 1657, we find it recorded that an order was given “for the erection of stocks and whipping-post required by the statute13 at the churchyard corner in Tower Street against Mr. Lowe’s, the draper’s, with a convenient shed over them.” How Mr. Lowe, the draper, took the proposition we are not informed, but if he expressed his feelings in forcible language he{155} might, perchance, have met the fate of his neighbour, Mr. Holland, who, three years previously14, on April 26, 1654, “was fined 3s. 4d. by Alderman Tichbourne for vain oaths sworn” within the parish of Allhallows. Tower Hill would seem, in those days, to have had a peculiar16 attraction for “beggars and common vagrants17.” It was a popular resort for those who lived to beg and those who begged to live—two very different classes of people, but both equally inconvenient18. In the middle seventeenth century the condition of affairs became serious and gave alarm both to officials and to the annoyed inhabitants of the district. In May, 1647, the Vestry of Allhallows “takes into consideration the destitute19 condition of the poor, and it is ordered that a collection for the poor shall be made every second Sabbath in the month; the churchwardens shall stand at the door ... to receive the freewill offerings of the parishioners,” and in 1654 the residents appeal to the Lord Mayor, for “grate, grate, very grate are your petitioners’ wants, and may it please your Honour to afford them some relief ... without which they are unable to maintain so great a charge.” Hither came “a poore starving Frenchman,” who was solaced21 with 2s.; a like sum was granted to{156} a “poore Spaniard turned Protestant” and a “poore Dutch minister.” The dwellers22 on the side of Tower Hill were themselves at times reprimanded by the authorities, for we find that in May, 1653, “Goodman Dawson and his wife” are summoned to appear, “because they would not let their daughter, aged23 seventeen, go out to service: their pension to be stopped as long as they encourage such indolence,” which seems a just enough proceeding24.
This district suffered severely25 during the three years after the Great Fire. Tower Hill lay on the eastern edge of the city of desolation. The poor proprietor26 of the Blue Bell tavern27, which stood in picturesque28 angularities overlooking the hill before the catastrophe29 which reduced it, to quote its owner’s words, “to nothing but a ruinous heap of rubbish,” sought exemption30, in 1669, from arrears31 of lawful32 dues. These old inns bordering Tower Hill were the scene of frequent “Parish dinners,” at which the consumption of food was so considerable as to lead one to believe that Tower Hill was noted33 in those days, as it is to-day, for its fresh air, which sharpens the edge of appetite. These feeds were partaken of by just as many “men of import in the parish” as could get into a small{157}
Image unavailable: THE TOWER AND TOWER HILL, SHOWING SITE OF THE SCAFFOLD, IN THE GARDEN
THE TOWER AND TOWER HILL, SHOWING SITE OF THE SCAFFOLD, IN THE GARDEN
room, “mine host’s best parlour.” On April 26, 1629, they consumed “5 stone of beefe, 2 legges of mutton, 2 quarters of lamb, 3 capons,” and so on. A few weeks afterwards they are at it again and “dine upon 5 ribbs of beef, a side of lamb, 2 legges of mutton, 2 capons; and did drink wine and beer to the value of ￡l:7s.” This reminds one of Falstaff’s feeds in Eastcheap and his capacity for imbibing34 Canary sack. At one meal, in Henry IV., Shakespeare makes the fat knight35, if we go by the bill presented afterwards, drink sixteen pints36 of wine! In 1632 sack was sold in the City at 9d. per quart, claret at 5d., and Malmsey and muscadine at 8d.
In Queen Anne’s reign37 Tower Hill is described as “an open and spacious38 place, set with trees, extending round the west and north parts of the Tower, where there are many good new buildings, mostly inhabited by gentry39 and merchants.” In the contemporary drawings it is shown as an open space, but singularly devoid40 of trees. The artists may have been so intent upon crowding their pictures with tightly packed citizens gazing upon the decapitation of some unfortunate nobleman that they forgot to put in the trees. Certainly several of the fine trees that now adorn41 Trinity{158} Square are of some age, and represent the survivors42 of that fragment of the ancient forest which crept up to the eastern side of the hill, and which we see so plainly marked in many of the old maps.
In a house on the western side of Tower Hill Lady Raleigh dwelt with her son when her husband was denied her society. From her window she could look out day by day upon the Brick Tower to which Raleigh had been removed, and tradition asserts that she was able to communicate with him and send him gifts in spite of Waad’s stringent43 orders. The house in which William Penn was born, on October 14, 1644, stood on the east side of the hill; its site is covered by the new roadway leading to the Minories. Penn was sent to school at Chigwell, in Essex, and it was during those days of boyhood that he had been impressed by the preaching of a Quaker preacher which led him to forsake44 the Church of his baptism (he was baptized, as we shall see in the following chapter, in Allhallows Barking), and join the Society of Friends. Thomas Otway, the poet, abused by Rochester in his Session of the Poets, and praised by Dryden, died, it is believed of starvation, in the Bull Inn on Tower Hill, when only thirty-four{159} years old. That great Elizabethan, Edmund Spenser, was born near Tower Hill in 1552, and passed his boyhood there, before going, when sixteen, to Pembroke College, Cambridge. In Little Tower Street, in a timber-fronted, many-gabled house, now, alas45, swept away, James Thomson wrote his poem Summer, published in 1727. So much for literary associations.
Peter the Great, who raised Russia “out of the slough46 of ignorance and obscurity,” in order to superintend the building of a navy took upon himself the task of learning shipbuilding, first as a common labourer, afterwards as a master craftsman47. He came to London for four months and worked in the dockyards by day and drank heavily in a public-house in Allhallows Barking parish at night. He was accustomed “to resort to an inn in Great Tower Street and smoke and drink ale and brandy, almost enough to float the vessel48 he had been helping49 to construct.” Barrow, his biographer, states that “the landlord had the Czar of Muscovy’s head painted and put up for his sign, which continued until the year 1808, when a person of the name of Waxel took a fancy to the old sign and offered the then occupier of the house to paint him a new one for it. A copy was accordingly made from the{160} original, which maintains its station to the present day as the sign of the Czar’s Head.” The house has since been rebuilt and the sign removed, but the name remains. While the Earl of Rochester was in disgrace at Court in Charles II.’s time he is said to have “robed and bearded himself as an Italian quack51 or mountebank52 physician, and, under the name of Bendo, set up at a goldsmith’s house, next door to the Black Swan in Tower Street,” where he advertised that he “was to be seen from three of the clock in the afternoon till eight at night.” The second Duke of Buckingham came, once or twice in disguise, in his days of political intrigue53, to a house facing Tower Hill, to consult an old astrologer who professed54 to draw horoscopes. In Seething55 Lane, then known as Sidon Lane, which runs from Allhallows Barking to the Church of St. Olave’s, Hart Street, Sir Francis Walsingham, Queen Elizabeth’s principal secretary, dwelt “in a fair and large house.” This foe56 of the Jesuits died here on April 5, 1590, “and was buried next night, at ten of the clock, in Paul’s Church.”
St. Olave’s Church is a building with many interesting associations, and a well-written little pamphlet has recently been issued which visitors will do well to read. There is only space here to mention the{161} Pepys monument, in the South Aisle57, where the diarist was buried in June, 1703, the service being taken by his friend Dr. Hickes, Vicar of Allhallows Barking. The registers of the parish show that from July 4 to December 5, 1665, there were buried 326 people who had died of the plague. A quaint58 skull59 and crossbones carving60 can still be seen over the gateway within which the burial pit lay. Pepys, going to church reluctantly early in the following year, is relieved to find snow covering the plague spot. St. Olave’s has renewed its old-time activity under the care of its present rector, the Rev15. A. B. Boyd Carpenter.
There is much of interest, also, in the neighbouring church of St. Dunstan-in-the-East, lying between Tower Street and Lower Thames Street. Its graceful61 spire62 is a familiar landmark63, and, with its flying buttresses64 set in bold relief when seen from Tower Hill against a sunset sky, makes a noble crown to the church hidden from sight. St. Dunstan’s list of rectors dates back to the early fourteenth century. In 1810 the church became ruinous, and the walls of the nave65, owing to insecurity of foundation, showed signs of collapsing66 altogether. The present building was opened in 1821 after restoration and reconstruction67. The{162} registers of St. Dunstan’s escaped the Fire, and date back to 1558. A valuable model of the church as rebuilt by Wren68, and almost contemporaneous with the rebuilding, may be seen in the vestry.
The chief Mint of England was, from the Conquest down to 1811, situated69 within Tower walls. It was removed in the year just mentioned to the present buildings on the eastern side of Little Tower Hill, over which visitors are shown if application be made beforehand to the Deputy-Master. The art of “making money” is here shown from the solid bar of gold to the new sovereign, washed and tested, sent out on its adventurous70 career in a world which will welcome its face in whatever company it appears. The Mint also possesses an excellently arranged museum of coins and medals, in which are many invaluable71 treasures.
Trinity House, headquarters of the Trinity Brethren, stands on Tower Hill, facing the Tower. A graceful and well-proportioned building, it supplants72 the older quarters in Water Lane, Great Tower Street. The corporation of Trinity House was established in 1529 as “The Masters, Wardens20, and Assistants of the Guild73, or Fraternity,{163} or Brotherhood74 of the Most Glorious and Undividable Trinity,” and the first headquarters was situated near the river, at Deptford. The guild was founded by Sir Thomas Spert, Comptroller of the Navy to Henry VIII., and commander of the great ship, “a huge gilt75 four-master, the Harry76 Grace de Dieu,” in which the King sailed to Calais on his way to the Field of the Cloth of Gold. In 1854 “the exclusive right of lighting77 and buoying78 the coast” was given to the Board of Trinity House. Within Trinity House to-day may be seen models of practically all the important lighthouses and lightships on the English coast. The regulations of Trinity House in former times are described by Strype, and among them we find rules to the effect that “Bumboats with fruit, wine, and strong waters were not permitted by them to board vessels79. Every mariner80 who swore, cursed, or blasphemed on board ship was to pay one shilling to the ship’s poor-box. Every mariner found drunk was fined one shilling, and no mariner could absent himself from prayers unless sick, without forfeiting81 sixpence.” The present House on Tower Hill was built in 1793-95 by Samuel Wyatt. On the front, Ionic in character, are sculptured the arms of the corporation, medallions{164} of George III. and Queen Charlotte, genii with nautical82 instruments, and representations of four of the principal lighthouses on the coast. The interior is beautified by several valuable pictures, one of them a large Gainsborough, and a suite83 of most handsome furniture. Here, too, is preserved a flag taken from the Spanish Armada by Drake, and many curious old maps and charts. The present Master of Trinity House is H.R.H. the Prince of Wales, who visits Tower Hill every Trinity Monday, and, with the Elder Brethren, walks through Trinity Square and Catherine Court to service at the parish church.
An old print hanging in one of the rooms of Trinity House depicts84, with some realism, the last execution on Tower Hill, in 1747, when Lord Lovat suffered. In August of the previous year the Earl of Kilmarnock and Lord Balmerino had been brought to the block after the Culloden tragedy. A journal of the time gives us a most detailed85 account of the proceedings86, from which some extracts may be taken in order to form some idea of procedures that were soon to end for ever. “About 8 o’clock the Sheriffs of London ... and the executioner met at the Mitre Tavern in Fenchurch Street, where they{165} breakfasted, and went from thence to the house, on Tower Hill near Catherine’s Court [now Catherine House], hired by them for the reception of the lords before they should be conducted to the scaffold, which was erected about thirty yards from the said house. At ten o’clock the block was fixed87 on the stage and covered with black cloth, with several sacks of sawdust up to strew88 on it; soon after the coffins89 were brought, also covered with black cloth.” The leaden plates from the lids of these coffins are those now preserved on the west wall of St. Peter’s on Tower Green. “At a quarter after ten,” the account proceeds, “the Sheriffs went in procession to the outward gate of the Tower, and after knocking at it some time, a warder within asked, ‘Who’s there?’ The officer without replied, ‘The Sheriffs of London and Middlesex.’ The warder then asked, ‘What do they want?’ The officer answered, ‘The bodies of William, Earl of Kilmarnock, and Arthur, Lord Balmerino,’ upon which the warder within said, ‘I will go and inform the Lieutenant91 of the Tower,’ and in about ten minutes the Lieutenant with the Earl of Kilmarnock, and Major White with Lord Balmerino, guarded by several of the warders, came to the gate; the{166} prisoners were then delivered to the Sheriffs, who gave proper receipt for their bodies to the Lieutenant, who as usual said, ‘God bless King George!’ to which the Earl of Kilmarnock assented92 by a bow, and the Lord Balmerino said, ‘God bless King James!’ Lord Kilmarnock had met Lord Balmerino at the foot of the stairs in the Tower and said to him, ‘My lord, I am heartily93 sorry to have your company in this expedition.’” The prisoners were led to the house near the block in Trinity Square, and they spent what time was left to them in devotions. Kilmarnock was brought out to the scaffold first. “The executioner, who before had something administered to keep him from fainting, was so affected94 by his lordship’s distress95, and the awfulness of the scene that, on asking his [Lord Kilmarnock’s] forgiveness, he burst into tears. My Lord bade him take courage, giving him at the same time a purse with five guineas, and telling him he would drop his handkerchief as a signal for the stroke.... In the meantime, when all things were ready for the execution, and the black bays which hung over the rails of the scaffold having, by the direction of the Colonel of the Guard, or the Sheriffs, been turned up that{167}
Image unavailable: THE BLOCK, AXE50, AND EXECUTIONER’S MASK
THE BLOCK, AXE, AND EXECUTIONER’S MASK
the people might see all the circumstances of the execution, in about two minutes after he kneeled down his lordship dropped his handkerchief. The executioner at once severed96 the head from the body, except only a small portion of the skin which was immediately divided by a gentle stroke. The head was received in a piece of red baize and, with the body, immediately put into the coffin90.” Lord Balmerino followed shortly afterwards, wearing the uniform in which he had fought at Culloden. His end was not so swift as Lord Kilmarnock’s had been; twice the executioner bungled97 his stroke, and not until the third blow was the head severed.
Lord Lovat, whom Hogarth had seen, and painted, in the White Hart Inn at St. Albans as the prisoner was being brought to London, was led to the block on Tower Hill on Thursday, April 9, 1747, and his was the last blood that was shed there. Just before his execution, a scaffolding, which had been erected at the eastern end of Barking Alley98, fell and brought to the ground a thousand spectators who had secured places upon it to view the execution. Twelve were killed outright99 and scores of others injured. “Lovat,” as the account puts it, “in spite of his{168} awful situation, seemed to enjoy the downfall of so many Whigs.” Lord Lovat’s head was, at one blow, severed from his body, and Tower Hill’s record of bloodshed was at an end.
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1
wither
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| vt.使凋谢，使衰退，(用眼神气势等)使畏缩；vi.枯萎，衰退，消亡 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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3
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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4
lavishly
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| adv.慷慨地，大方地 | |
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5
slaughter
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| n.屠杀，屠宰；vt.屠杀，宰杀 | |
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6
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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7
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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8
interred
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| v.埋，葬( inter的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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9
accurately
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| adv.准确地，精确地 | |
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10
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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11
gallows
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| n.绞刑架，绞台 | |
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12
gateway
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| n.大门口，出入口，途径，方法 | |
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13
statute
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| n.成文法，法令，法规；章程，规则，条例 | |
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14
previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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rev
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| v.发动机旋转，加快速度 | |
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16
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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17
vagrants
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| 流浪者( vagrant的名词复数 )； 无业游民； 乞丐； 无赖 | |
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18
inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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19
destitute
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| adj.缺乏的；穷困的 | |
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20
wardens
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| n.看守人( warden的名词复数 )；管理员；监察员；监察官 | |
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21
solaced
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| v.安慰，慰藉( solace的过去分词 ) | |
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dwellers
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| n.居民，居住者( dweller的名词复数 ) | |
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23
aged
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| adj.年老的，陈年的 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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severely
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| adv.严格地；严厉地；非常恶劣地 | |
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proprietor
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| n.所有人；业主；经营者 | |
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tavern
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| n.小旅馆，客栈；小酒店 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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catastrophe
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| n.大灾难，大祸 | |
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exemption
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| n.豁免，免税额，免除 | |
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arrears
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| n.到期未付之债，拖欠的款项；待做的工作 | |
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lawful
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| adj.法律许可的，守法的，合法的 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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imbibing
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| v.吸收( imbibe的现在分词 )；喝；吸取；吸气 | |
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knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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pints
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| n.品脱( pint的名词复数 )；一品脱啤酒 | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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spacious
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| adj.广阔的，宽敞的 | |
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gentry
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| n.绅士阶级，上层阶级 | |
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devoid
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| adj.全无的，缺乏的 | |
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adorn
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| vt.使美化，装饰 | |
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42
survivors
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| 幸存者，残存者，生还者( survivor的名词复数 ) | |
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43
stringent
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| adj.严厉的；令人信服的；银根紧的 | |
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44
forsake
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| vt.遗弃，抛弃；舍弃，放弃 | |
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45
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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46
slough
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| v.蜕皮，脱落，抛弃 | |
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47
craftsman
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| n.技工，精于一门工艺的匠人 | |
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48
vessel
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| n.船舶；容器，器皿；管，导管，血管 | |
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49
helping
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| n.食物的一份&adj.帮助人的，辅助的 | |
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50
axe
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| n.斧子；v.用斧头砍，削减 | |
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51
quack
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| n.庸医；江湖医生；冒充内行的人；骗子 | |
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52
mountebank
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| n.江湖郎中；骗子 | |
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53
intrigue
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| vt.激起兴趣，迷住；vi.耍阴谋；n.阴谋，密谋 | |
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54
professed
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| 公开声称的，伪称的，已立誓信教的 | |
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55
seething
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| 沸腾的，火热的 | |
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56
foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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57
aisle
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| n.（教堂、教室、戏院等里的）过道，通道 | |
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58
quaint
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| adj.古雅的，离奇有趣的，奇怪的 | |
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59
skull
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| n.头骨；颅骨 | |
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60
carving
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| n.雕刻品，雕花 | |
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61
graceful
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| adj.优美的，优雅的；得体的 | |
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62
spire
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| n.(教堂)尖顶，尖塔，高点 | |
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landmark
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| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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buttresses
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| n.扶壁，扶垛( buttress的名词复数 )v.用扶壁支撑，加固( buttress的第三人称单数 ) | |
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nave
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| n.教堂的中部；本堂 | |
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collapsing
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| 压扁[平]，毁坏，断裂 | |
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reconstruction
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| n.重建，再现，复原 | |
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wren
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| n.鹪鹩；英国皇家海军女子服务队成员 | |
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situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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adventurous
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| adj.爱冒险的；惊心动魄的，惊险的，刺激的 | |
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invaluable
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| adj.无价的，非常宝贵的，极为贵重的 | |
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supplants
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| 把…排挤掉，取代( supplant的第三人称单数 ) | |
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guild
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| n.行会，同业公会，协会 | |
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brotherhood
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| n.兄弟般的关系，手中情谊 | |
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gilt
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| adj.镀金的；n.金边证券 | |
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harry
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| vt.掠夺，蹂躏，使苦恼 | |
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lighting
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| n.照明，光线的明暗，舞台灯光 | |
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buoying
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| v.使浮起( buoy的现在分词 )；支持；为…设浮标；振奋…的精神 | |
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vessels
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| n.血管( vessel的名词复数 )；船；容器；（具有特殊品质或接受特殊品质的）人 | |
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mariner
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| n.水手号不载人航天探测器，海员，航海者 | |
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forfeiting
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| （因违反协议、犯规、受罚等）丧失，失去( forfeit的现在分词 ) | |
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nautical
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| adj.海上的，航海的，船员的 | |
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suite
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| n.一套(家具)；套房；随从人员 | |
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depicts
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| 描绘，描画( depict的第三人称单数 )； 描述 | |
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detailed
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| adj.详细的，详尽的，极注意细节的，完全的 | |
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proceedings
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| n.进程，过程，议程；诉讼(程序)；公报 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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strew
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| vt.撒；使散落；撒在…上，散布于 | |
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coffins
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| n.棺材( coffin的名词复数 )；使某人早亡[死，完蛋，垮台等]之物 | |
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coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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lieutenant
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| n.陆军中尉，海军上尉；代理官员，副职官员 | |
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assented
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| 同意，赞成( assent的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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heartily
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| adv.衷心地，诚恳地，十分，很 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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severed
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| v.切断，断绝( sever的过去式和过去分词 )；断，裂 | |
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bungled
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| v.搞糟，完不成( bungle的过去式和过去分词 )；笨手笨脚地做；失败；完不成 | |
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alley
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| n.小巷，胡同；小径，小路 | |
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outright
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| adv.坦率地；彻底地；立即；adj.无疑的；彻底的 | |
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