In former times, before the introduction of railways, the traveller to Cairo had to go by canal, hire a boat, servant; procure5 a carpet, mattress6, and bedding; lay in a store of provisions, and a variety of minor7 articles that would fill a page or two to mention. Now we can go comfortably by rail in a few hours, the distance being something like 120 miles, I think.
We pass, en route, Lake Mareotis and the[39] Mohmoudieh Canal, cultivated land near Alexandria, then a good deal uncultivated and desert; but as we approach Cairo, we see large tracts8 of cultivated land, all accomplished9 by irrigation, and I am told that as much as two or three crops in the year can be obtained off these lands without very great labour. A hot sun can always be depended on. The agricultural labourer has not to go through the laborious10 work of ploughing and manuring as in England. All he has to do is to scratch the ground, and put in the seed in the fertilizing alluvium which has been brought down from the rich lands of Meroe and portions of Abyssinia by the Athara river and its tributaries11, the Salaam12, Augrab, and the greater stream, Tacazze or Settite. All these rivers cut through a large area of deep soil, through which, in the course of ages, they have excavated13 valleys of great depth, and in some places of more than two miles in width. The contents of these enormous cuttings have been delivered upon the low lands of Egypt at the period of the inundations. The Athara is the greatest mud-carrier, then the Blue Nile, which effects a junction14 with the White Nile at Khartoum.
The White Nile is of lacustrine origin, and conveys no mud, but an excess of vegetable matter, suspended in the finest particles, and exhibiting[40] beneath the microscope minute globules of green matter, which have the appearance of germs. When the two rivers meet at the Khartoum junction, the water of the Blue Nile, which contains lime, appears to coagulate the alluminous matter in that of the White Nile, which is then precipitated15, and forms a deposit; after which the true Nile, formed by a combination of the two rivers, becomes wholesome16, and remains17 comparatively clear, until it meets the muddy Athara. The Sobat river is a most important tributary19, supposed to have its sources in the southern portion of the Galla country.
For the foregoing information on these rivers I am indebted to an article of Sir Samuel Baker’s, which I read with great interest in the Contemporary Review; and I daresay many of my readers will thank me for reproducing it.
After this slight digression, I will continue my journey to Cairo. At the stations were numbers of women and children with refreshments20 for the traveller in this land, where the sun always shines with a burning heat; women with goolehs of water to sell; children naked, or nearly so, with sugar-cane, melons, oranges, dates, fresh sugar-cane, figs21, &c. Vast numbers of these poor creatures were afflicted22 with ophthalmia, their eyelids23 covered with[41] flies, which they take no notice of whatever, many of them blind, or partially25 so, blind beggars; one and all, whether they can sell anything or not, continually uttering the cry of “Backsheesh, backsheesh, howaga,” which comes faintly on my ears as the train leaves the station. As we journey on there is much to be noticed. Now we pass a camp of Bedouins in the desert; next a large grove26 of date-palms (the owner of which has to pay a tax on every tree). Here the domestic buffalo27 walks round and round a circle; he is working the sakia or water-wheel, which winds up the water for irrigation. This is also taxed. Scattered28 all over the country are innumerable shadoofs, another mode, and the most ancient, of obtaining water; there the stately-looking camel strides along, looking intensely unconcerned. Trotting30 past him on his little donkey is an Arab in loose, white, flowing robes, and turbaned head. At one time we pass squalid, wretched-looking mud-huts; anon Nubians, as black as coal, working in the fields. We arrived at Cairo in the evening about seven, and were at once driven off to the well-knewn Shepheard’s Hotel. The cuisine31 is all that could be desired, and every attention is paid to insure the comfort of visitors. Mr. Grose, the manager, is a particularly obliging and attentive32 gentleman.
[42]
Cairo (in Arabic, Kahira, which signifies victorious) is the capital city of Egypt. It lies on the east bank of the Nile, in a sandy plain, and contains old Cairo, Boulac (the harbour), and new Cairo, which are, to a considerable degree, distinct from each other. The city itself, separate from the gardens and plantations33 which surround it, is about 10 miles in circuit, has 31 gates, and 240 irregular unpaved streets, which during the night are, or were, closed at the end of the quarter, to prevent disturbances34. The houses are for the most part built of brick, with flat roofs, and the interior of many of them is very sumptuous35. The chief square of Cairo, El-Esbekiah, has a magnificent area, the centre of which is laid out as a garden, and is annually36 inundated37 by the overflowing38 of the Nile. It is surrounded by the finest palaces. There is in it a monument to General Kleber. The inhabitants of the city and suburbs, in 1871 353,851, are Arabs or Mahomedans, Coptish Christians39, Mamelukes, Greeks, Syrians, Armenians, Jews, and natives of various countries of Europe. The castle, or citadel, situated40 on a rock, containing Joseph’s Well, 276 feet deep, is the residence of the Pasha. There are 80 public baths, 400 mosques42, two Greek, 12 Coptish, one Armenian, and one English church, 36 synagogues, and many silk, camlet, tapestry,[43] gunpowder43, leather, linen44, and cotton factories. Among the mosques, which, though many of them are in ruins, form the most conspicuous45 edifices46 of the city, the most remarkable47 is that of Sultan Hassan, which is built of blocks of polished marble, obtained from the outer casing of the pyramids, or pyramid rather, for, if my memory serves me right, they are from the great pyramid of Cheops at Gizeh. It has a beautifully ornamented48 porch, richly corniced walls, and many tall minarets49. Here is also a Mahomedan high school, a printing office and 25,000 volumes. The largest convent of dervishes is at Cairo. It was built in 1174. The traffic of Cairo is very great, since it is the centre of communication between Europe, the Mediterranean51 Sea, Asia, and the North of Africa, and is upon the railway from Alexandria to Suez. The principal bazaars52 are the Ghoreah and Khan Khalel. Goods are disposed of there by public auction53, and the different bazaars exhibit different kinds of merchandise. Ibrahim Pasha commenced a public library in 1830, and in 1842 a European Society, called the Egyptian Literary Association, was established. Mehemet Ali introduced schools for elementary education, and the Church of England Missionary54 Society has two schools.
Cairo was founded by Jauhar, general of the[44] Caliph Moez, in the year of the Hegira55 368, or A.D. 969, on the site of the Egyptian Babylon. Moez afterwards made it his capital, which distinction it retained until the overthrow56 of the Mamelukes by Sultan Selim in 1517. Saladin extended and fortified57 it in 1176. It was repeatedly attacked by the Crusaders, particularly by St. Louis in 1249. It was occupied by the French from 1798 to 1801, when it was recovered by the Turks with the assistance of the English. A great fire occurred there in February, 1863; advantage was taken of it to improve the town.
Our military occupation of Egypt (or shall I say that it is simply a “measure of police?”), and events that are now transpiring58 there, are a sufficient excuse (if one were required) for dealing59 shortly with the ancient history of Cairo and the neighbourhood.
Soon after our arrival at Shepheard’s Hotel, when we had restored ourselves to our personal comfort, our host provided us with a good dinner, to which we did ample justice, and as the weather (although the end of November) was like a summer’s evening in England, we enjoyed the usual after-dinner cigarettes in the balcony, which is a very pleasant lounge, even in the day time, as it is quite sheltered from the blazing sun. I soon strolled off to bed[45] with the idea of obtaining a good night’s rest, so that I should awake refreshed and fit for a pilgrimage to the various shrines60 of intense interest with which Cairo and its neighbourhood abounds61. I have visited and seen all that was interesting in Rome, once the mistress of the world—Corinth, once the seat of learning and the abode62 of a most polished people; Ephesus; have stood on the ancient Acropolis of Athens, the plains of Troy, celebrated63 by Virgil; explored Misenum, Pateoli, Bai?, Pompeii, and Herculaneum, all rich in historical associations; but compared with the remains of ancient cities near Cairo these places were of yesterday’s growth, and were not even thought of until ages after the glory and high civilization of the people in the land of the Pharaohs had passed away. When Abraham entered the Delta64 from Canaan with his countrymen, moving about in tents and waggons65, the Egyptians were living in cities enjoying all the advantages of a settled government and established laws; had already cultivated agriculture, parcelled out their valley into farms, and reverenced66 a landmark67 as a god.
While Abraham knew of no property but herds68 and movables, they had invented records and wrote their kings’ names and actions on the massive temples which they raised. They had invented[46] hieroglyphics69 and improved them into syllabic writing, and almost into an alphabet. The history of Greece begins with the Trojan war, but before the time of David and before the time of the Trojan war, the power and glory of Thebes had already passed away. About 1,000 years B.C. Shishak the conqueror70 of Rehoboam, son of Solomon, governed all Egypt; at his death it was torn to pieces by civil wars. After a time the kings of Ethiopia reigned71 in Thebes, and helped the Israelites to fight against their Assyrian masters. This unsettled state of things lasted nearly 300 years, during which, as the Prophet Isaiah foretold72, “Egyptians fought against Egyptians, brother against brother, city against city, and kingdom against kingdom.” At last the city of Sais put an end to this state of things and under the Sais kings Egypt enjoyed again a high degree of prosperity. They were more despotic than the kings of Thebes, and struggled with the Babylonians for the dominion73 of Jud?a.
Probably many of my readers are aware that M. Ferdinand de Lesseps was not the originator of a canal to the Red Sea, for Pharaoh Necho, one of the Sais kings, began it from the Nile. His sailors, circumnavigated Africa; he conquered Jerusalem, and when the Chaldees afterwards drove back the Egyptian army the remnant of Judah, with the Prophet[47] Jeremiah, retreated into Egypt to seek a refuge with King Hophra.
523 B.C. the Persians became masters of Egypt, and behaved with great tyranny. Cambyses plundered74 the tombs and temples, broke the statues, and scourged75 the priests. They ruled for 200 years; then the Greeks, B.C. 332, the Romans, B.C. 30, and on the division of the Roman Empire, A.D. 337, Egypt fell to the lot of Constantinople. In A.D. 640, just 670 years after the Roman conquest, Egypt was conquered by the followers76 of Mahomet, and now, in this year of grace, A.D. 1884, we are rather upsetting the late order of things, but whether for good or evil time will show.
In this age of progress, it may seem strange to say so, but Egyptian landlords had much the same tastes 3,000 years ago as English landlords have now. They were much addicted77 to field-sports. Not only does history tell us so, but I have seen often in their sculptures and paintings that this was so. Even on the tomb and chapel78 of King Phty at Sakkara, which is said to be over 5,000 years old, I saw scenes of fowling79, fishing, hunting, running down the gazelle, spearing the hippopotamus80, of coursing and netting hares, of shooting wild cattle with arrows, and catching81 them with the lasso. They had fish ponds, game preserves, and game[48] laws, they were fond of horses and dogs, kept good tables, gave morning and evening parties, amused themselves with games of skill and chance, were proud of their ancestors, built fine houses and furnished them handsomely, and paid great attention to horticulture and arboriculture.
This certainly reads like contemporary history; but I will go further. To use a well-known expression, “would you be surprised to hear” that the tenants82 paid the same proportionate rent as the British farmer of to-day? The average gross produce of a farm here was ￡8 an acre, average rent about 32s. an acre—just one-fifth—the exact rent paid by the tenants of Potiphar, Captain of the Guard, and of Potipherah, Priest of On, Joseph’s father-in-law, and the same was paid to Pharaoh himself by his tenants. At that time the whole acreage of the country was divided into rectangular estates. One-third belonged to the king, two-thirds in equal proportions to the priestly and military castes; and these were cultivated by another order of men, who, for the use of the land, paid rent—one-fifth of the gross produce—to the owner.
Altogether I spent nearly a fortnight in Cairo, and feeling a great interest in the historical associations of this ancient place and the neighbourhood, I resolved to see and learn as much as I could of[49] them during my short stay. In the morning, after early breakfast, I amused myself for a short time by sitting in the shade of the extensive balcony in front of Shepheard’s Hotel, which overlooks the street, and is contiguous to it. The scene which presented itself to my gaze was truly Oriental in character. Now I see a few camels stalking silently, slowly, and sedately83 on, variously laden—some with baskets of large stones for building purposes, others with long pieces of timber on each side, others with skins of water and so on; then an Arab lady on donkey-back, riding after the manner of men, and covered from head to foot in unsightly black wrappers, having just a slit84 in them, through which can be seen a large pair of lustrous85 dark eyes, and down the bridge of her nose are some brass-looking ornaments86, resembling as much as anything a row of thimbles inserted in one another. A Turkish lady’s dress and yashmack (covering worn over the face) is much more becoming, and her nose is not ornamented by the addition of the thimble arrangement. The Turkish ladies wear (in Constantinople) quite a thin white muslin yashmack over their faces. This does not conceal87 very much of the features, which, as a rule, are very beautiful. The Egyptian ladies wear a black yashmack, which conceals88 all except the eyes. Report says they are[50] ugly; if so, they are quite right to do so. Next I see a carriage driven along preceded by two sais, or runners, to clear the way, and it is surprising what a pace they go at with a long, swinging trot29. They are picturesquely90 and gorgeously dressed, each bearing a long wand, and wearing a tarboosh (Turkish fez), the long thick blue tassel91 of which floats gracefully92 over the shoulders, and not at all unlike what some of the ladies in Athens wear, except that their tassels93 are black. Then we see blind, or partially blind, beggars, of whom there are vast numbers, Coptic and Mahomedan women and children, girls with baskets of flowers and lovely roses, sweet-meat, fly-whisp, water, and fruit-sellers, conjurers, snake-charmers, one and all soliciting94 “backsheesh,” dusky, brown-skinned Arabs clad in loose-flowing robes and white turbans, coal-black Nubians, Jews, Greeks, Armenians, and Europeans of all shades of colour, religion, and politics. Here, in fact, in this city of Saladin and of the “Arabian Nights Entertainments” creations (which once seemed to be so fanciful and visionary) kindle95 into life and reality as I look upon everything around me.
The apartments of an Arab house of the well-to-do are decorated with Arabesque96 lattices, instead of glass windows. Inside are luxurious97 divans98 heaped[51] with soft cushions, instead of sofas and chairs; and instead of the rattling99 of cabs, carts, and tramcars we hear the wild, shrill100, trilling note of the Arabian women indicating some occasion of joy or sorrow, or hear the equally peculiar101 long drawn-out note of the muezzin from some minaret50 calling the faithful to prayer.
Very near to our hotel, on the opposite side, are always to be found a number of donkeys ready for hire, and very good little donkeys they are. I can see the head, legs, and tail of a donkey; the remaining portion of him is almost concealed102 by a great padded saddle, to which is attached a very inconvenient103 pair of stirrups, into which you may get the tips of your toes, and sometimes a portion of the foot, but if the foot is not small, or is so unfortunate as to possess a respectably-sized bunion, you must be content if you can get the tips of your toes only in the stirrup; this, again, slips down to the right or left, according as you put more pressure on one side or the other. There are no girths, but one long strap104 placed around the saddle and donkey very insecurely fixes the former. If my reader has not been accustomed to circus-riding, I assure him he would experience some difficulty at first in exhibiting his powers of equitation before the Egyptian public under these circumstances, and I have seen[52] more than one individual come into ignominious105 contact with mother earth; fortunately he has not far to go ere he humbles106 and tumbles himself in the dust.
My first experience was this: as soon as I was seated and had rammed107 the tip of my boot into the stirrup, the donkey-boy shouts, “Ha—ha.” This warning note the donkey knows full well, and off he goes at a kind of running trot, which is all right. Soon these ha-ha’s increase in frequency, and ere long I can fancy myself a second Mezeppa. The imp18 behind now accompanies his peculiar yell with a sharp prog of a pointed108 stick, and the donkey takes a very pointed cognisance of it, for now “He urges on his wild career.” In the wide, open streets this rapid mode of progression has an exhilarating tendency, but in the narrow streets of the bazaars unguarded human beings fly to the right of me, unguarded human beings fly to the left of me, and imprecations, not loud, but deep, in an unknown tongue, fall on my untutored ear as my donkey indiscriminately cannons109 on to the unobservant. A few words about these donkeys, and donkey-boys so called. Most of the latter are not boys at all, but full-grown men, notwithstanding which they are always called donkey-boys. These and their donkeys are quite an institution in the East. The donkeys[53] own all kinds of popular English names, and of course (if the owner may be believed) are possessed110 of every good quality. Most of the donkey-boys have picked up more or less English, and in expatiating111 on the good qualities of their beasts are accustomed to interlard their speech with the strong language of the West, and you would be surprised to hear how promptly112 they will consign113 a fellow donkey-boy to an inhospitable and much-warmer region than Cairo, and to the care of a much blacker individual than themselves. The reader is here called upon to exercise his or her imagination. I had myself derived114 considerable amusement when watching an intending pilgrim securing one of these donkeys. To be forewarned is to be forearmed; I flattered myself that by making my selection sure before I got amongst them, my tactics would be most successful, but as the sequel will show, I was grossly deceived, having reckoned without my host, or hosts I ought to say. First intending pilgrim. He descends115 the steps of Shepheard’s Hotel, and moves towards the donkeys—a fatal movement. Instantly the air is thick with donkeys and donkey-boys. The latter yell frantically116 a chorus of praises concerning the useful quadrupeds, which are most adroitly117 and with surprising dexterity118 brought one after the other under his very nose, whilst the poor[54] victim is jostled about in the most bewildering and unpleasant manner. I have been both a spectator of and an actor in this performance, and I can safely say the spectator derives119 by far the greatest amusement.
I resolved to pay a visit to the bazaars and some of the mosques of note. Having, as I thought, gained some experience by observing the misfortunes of others, I executed a strategic movement which I fondly imagined would turn out successful. I had, from a distance selected my donkey; then cunningly walked up and down the pavement smoking a cigarette, apparently120 with no object in view. Suddenly I darted121 on to the enemy, but alas122! I found myself in an absolute whirlwind of donkeys and their troublesome two-legged attendants, who yelled into my ears and bumped me about until I was quite unable to recognise the donkey I had selected. Beauties were here represented, such as Mrs. Cornwallis West, and Mrs. Langtry; national names, such as John Bull, and Yankee-doodle; mythical123 names, such as Jim Crow and Billy Barlow. One donkey rejoiced in the name of Dr. Tanner, another in that of Madame Rachel; others, again, had been honoured with the names of statesmen, such as Prince Bismarck, John Bright, Sir Stafford Northcote, Lord Randolph Churchill, Mr. Gladstone,[55] Mr. Parnell, Lord Beaconsfield, and others. “Dr. Tanner, he debbil to go—he berry good donkey indeed, hakeem,” said the owner. However, I declined him, as he was said to be a FAST one (excuse the joke), and as this was entirely124 an Eastern question, I could not help thinking that Lord Beaconsfield would certainly be the most likely to carry me safely through. I therefore selected him, and had every reason to be satisfied with him and his secretary, Lord Rowton alias125 Ibrahim, the donkey-boy, whom I employed on several subsequent occasions. He proved a very good conductor, for he took me through the various bazaars, Tunis, Algiers, Turkish, Persian, and Arab, &c., pointing out all places of note and interest en route. Ibrahim soon got to know that I was a doctor, and so indeed did all the attendant Arabs about the hotel. He, like hundreds of his countrymen, suffered from ophthalmia, and when I was out with him he said—
“Hakeem, what I do with my eyes? They very bad sometimes.”
“Oh!” said I, “you bring me a bottle to-morrow morning, and I will give you something for them,” little thinking of the consequences. The lotion126 did his eyes a great deal of good, and two days afterwards a great many of his friends called, to all of whom I gave lotion. During my stay here, and[56] some months afterwards on returning from the Soudan, I was, every morning, employed after breakfast at my medicine chest preparing eye lotions127 for my Arab friends, invocations for the blessings128 of Allah being my recompense. The poor fellows appeared to be grateful, and I dare say it was genuine, not like a canting old Irish vagrant129 woman, who, if you give a hunk of bread and cheese to, will exclaim—
“Thank yer honour kindly130!” and as long as she is in hearing keep muttering, “Och! sure now, there’s a kind jintleman for ye, me darlint. Sure now he is intirely an illigant jintleman; only for him I would not have a bite this morning, that’s sure for ye. May Heaven guide him and the blessed Virgin131 protect him!” Then out of hearing it is, “Och! the dirty spalpeen! What will I do wid this? May the curse of Cromwell light on ye for a murthering Sassenach. What will I do honey? and I not had a sup of gin this blessed day to keep the cowld out of me poor thrimbling ould body!”
But I am digressing. One day I took a donkey ride to old Cairo, and with others from the hotel visited the dancing dervishes, and the house said to have been inhabited by our Saviour. Old Cairo is about two miles distant from Grand Cairo. It was at old Cairo that the child Jesus, with Joseph[57] and Mary, lived for a time, having fled from the bloody132, persecuting133 Herod. The place said to have been His exile home is now a small Greek church. The steps to the room are very much worn, but great care is taken of every part of it; silver lamps, hung from the ceiling, are burning night and day, and no one is allowed to enter without the presence of a Greek priest. It certainly is not difficult to believe that, considering the mild Syrian atmosphere, and the absence of rain, the building may be much more than 1,800 years old.
The dancing dervishes next engaged our attention. When in Constantinople I visited the dancing dervishes at Pera and the howling dervishes on the other side of the Bosphorus at Scutari. The dancing dervishes wear a dress of greyish material, which reaches a little below the knee, and is confined by a girdle round the waist. When they spin round like Teetotums this looks like an open umbrella. The head is covered by a curious-looking, tall, conical felt hat without any brim.
The word itself, Dervish, or Dervise, is of Persian origin, and signifies poor. It denotes the same amongst Mahomedans as monk134 with Christians. The observance of strict forms, fasting and acts of piety135, give them a character of sanctity amongst the people. They live partly together in monasteries[58] partly alone, and from their number the Imams (priests) are generally chosen. Throughout Turkey they are freely received, even at the tables of persons of the highest rank. Among the Hindus they are called fakirs. There are throughout Asia multitudes of these devotees, monastic and ascetic136, not only among the Mahomedans, but also among the followers of Brahma. There are no less than thirty-two religious orders now existing in the Turkish Empire, many of whom are scarcely known beyond its limits; but others, such as the Nakshbendies and Mevlevies, are common in Persia and India. All these communities are properly stationary137, though some of them send out a portion of their members to collect alms. The regularly itinerant138 dervishes in Turkey are all foreigners or outcasts, who, though expelled from their orders for misconduct, find their profession too agreeable and profitable to be abandoned, and therefore set up for themselves, and, under colour of sanctity, fleece honest people. All these orders, except the Nakshbendies are considered as living in seclusion139 from the world; but that order is composed entirely of persons who, without quitting the world, bind140 themselves to a strict observance of certain forms of devotion, and meet once a week to perform them together. Each order has its peculiar[59] statutes141, exercises, and habits. Most of them impose a novitiate, the length of which depends upon the spiritual state of the candidate, who is sometimes kept for a whole year under this kind of discipline. In the order of the Mevlevies, the novice142 perfects his spiritual knowledge in the kitchen of the convent. The numerous orders of dervishes are all divided into two great classes, the dancing and the howling dervishes. The former are the Mevlevies, and are held in much higher estimation than the other class, and are the wealthiest of all the religious bodies of the Turkish Empire. Their principal monastery143 is at Konieh, but they have another at Pera, a suburb of Constantinople, where they may be seen engaged in their exercises every Wednesday and Thursday. These are performed in a round chamber144, in the centre of which sits their chief or sheik, the hem24 of whose garment each dervish reverently145 kisses on entering the chamber, after which they go and range themselves round the chamber with their legs tucked under them. When all the dervishes have entered and saluted146 the sheik, they all rise together and go in procession three times round the room, the sheik at their head. Each time they do obeisance147 to the empty seat of the sheik on coming to a certain part of the room. The procession ended, the sheik again takes[60] his place in the centre, and all the others begin dancing round him, turning on themselves at the same time that they move round the room. The arms are extended, the palm of the right turned upward and the palm of the left downward, to indicate that what they receive from heaven with the right they give away to the poor with the left, while sounds of music are heard from a neighbouring gallery. The movement at first is slow, but as the dervishes become excited they become more animated148, and revolve149 so quickly that they look like tops spinning round; at last they sink exhausted150 on the floor. After a while they renew their exertions151, and repeat it several times. The whole is concluded by a sermon.
The howling dervishes do not confine themselves in their exercises to the dancing just described. They accompany them with loud vociferations of the name of Allah, and violent contortions153 of the body such as are seen in persons seized with epileptic fits. And even these extravagances are not so bad as those which were formerly154 practised, when the dervishes, after working themselves into a frenzy155, used to cut and torture themselves in various ways with apparent delight. The sheiks of all orders have the credit of possessing miraculous156 powers. The interpretation157 of dreams, the cure of[61] diseases, and the removal of barrenness, are the gifts for which the dervishes are most in repute. Had I to live in such a hot climate as Cairo, I should feel thankful that our religion does not necessitate158 such violent bodily exertion152 as that which these dervishes indulge in. The road to old Cairo was very, very dusty, and the weather excessively hot, as it always is in the day time. We left the dancing dervishes after remaining about half-an-hour, and rode back to our hotel in the afternoon too late for any further explorations that day. On the following day I spent some hours in a very enjoyable and also instructive manner, namely in inspecting the priceless articles in the Baulac Museum. This museum, I suppose, contains some of the most ancient things in this world, and I regret very much that I could not devote a week to inspecting the contents of it instead of a few hours. I should have seen the treasures contained here, and known very little concerning them (as there was no catalogue), had I not been so fortunate as to get into conversation with Brusch Bey, the curator, a most intelligent and obliging gentleman, whose heart is enthusiastically in his work. He was kind enough to spend about two or three hours with me and enlighten me on very many things which would have been a sealed book to me but for him. There[62] lay before us one grand discovery of 32 kings and queens, who had ruled Egypt in the dim distant ages long ago. The gilding159 on the inner coffins160 was as perfect and untarnished as it was the week they were executed, although thousands of years have rolled by since the handy craftsman161 was engaged on them. They were covered with information that none but an Egyptologist could decipher. In this museum was pointed out to me a picture said to be the most ancient in the world, it was a painted picture of Egyptian geese, as well done, I should imagine, as any ordinary painter of the present day could do it. There were bronzes and polished marble statuary as perfect in appearance as when they left the workmen’s hands, and, as far as I could judge, as well finished as they would be by workmen of the present day, although 2,000 or 3,000 years old. An ingenious and strong little cabinet engaged my attention some time; the doors of hard wood were well carved and the joints162 as exquisitely163 dove-tailed in as any man of the present day could make them. In a glass case I saw basket-work, a chair, rope, twine164, seals, rings, javelins165, slings166, food and seeds as they were found in an ancient tomb, the mason’s mallet167 cut out of a solid piece of wood, precisely168 the same shape and size as those in use here at the present time, jewellery well-finished and solid-looking,[63] and many other things too numerous to mention. On carefully examining this valuable and interesting collection, some of which were 3,000, 4,000, or 5,000 years old, I could not help thinking that they served well to illustrate169 the highly civilized170 condition of the people at so remote a period.
To give details of all the interesting things in this museum would occupy too much time to the exclusion171 of other matter, but there are two things that call for notice on account of their very great antiquity172. One is a wooden statue, which has been carved out of a solid block of very hard wood, and is that of a man about 5ft. 7in. in height. As one stands in front of that wooden statue gazing for a short time, he almost appears to be endowed with a soul and the power of speech, so excellent is the execution of the figure, and so expressive173 the face; no one can doubt for a moment that he was the creation of a high civilization. It was found in a tomb at Sakhara and belongs to one of the early dynasties of the old prim174?val monarchy175, and is absolutely untarnished by the thousands of years it has been reposing176 in that tomb; there is actually no sign of decay. The antiquity of that statue astonishes me, and I dare say it will my readers. Brusch Bey told me that it was supposed to be 5,400 years old, and that probably it was older than[64] that. The other statue, that of Chephren, the builder of the second Pyramid, with his name inscribed177 upon it, is in Diorite, one of the hardest kind of stones, carefully executed and beautifully polished. These Egyptians were evidently people of considerable forethought, and when they wanted their names and deeds to live long after them engraved178 on tablets of stone, they selected the most durable179 they could, and it is more than probable that had they contemplated180 building such houses of Parliament as we have built in London, they would have selected a hard, not a soft stone, that continually requires patching up. Well, the features of Chephren’s statue are uninjured, and Brusch Bey and I gazed on them just as they were seen by Chephren and his court 5,000 years ago. It was discovered by Mariette Bey, at the bottom of a well, which supplied the water used for sacred purposes in the sepulchral181 temple attached to Chephren’s Pyramid. It was no doubt originally erected182 in the temple, and was probably thrown into the well by the barbarous Hyksos or iconoclastic183 Persians.
During the late military operations, or “police measures,” grave apprehensions184 for the safety of the Baulac Museum arose, but fortunately it escaped the violence of the mob. The greater part of one day was occupied by a visit with my familiar[65] Ibrahim to the mosques of note, the citadel, tombs of the Caliphs and Mamelukes. Another day I got a companion from the hotel to accompany me to the petrified forest, some miles out in the desert. It covers an area of about 15 miles. All this space is pretty thickly strewed185 over with what appears to be trunks and branches of trees. I took hold of what appeared exactly like the wooden branch of a tree, and so it had once been, but for ages it had lain here, a solid piece of very hard stone. The place is an absolutely desolate186 one in the desert, with not a sign of vegetation in sight. Whether these had been washed here during the flood or had once grown in the neighbourhood or not, or how they came there, I never could ascertain187, although I have sought for information on the subject in all directions. No one seems to be able to tell me anything about the origin of this petrified forest, and I have not hitherto found a book containing any allusion188 to it. We returned to Cairo by the Mokhottam hills behind the citadel somewhat late in the afternoon, consequently had to urge on our donkeys so that we should see Cairo by sunset. We were here just in time to do so, as there is scarcely any twilight189 in the East; the transition from day to night does not occupy very many minutes. The picturesque89 panorama190 that opened out to our view well repaid[66] us for our trouble. There before and beneath us lay Cairo with its innumerable mosques and minarets, the Nile with the peculiar Nile boats called dahabeahs floating peacefully on its surface. Here and there the stately camel strides silently on, veiled women and turbaned Arabs in loose flowing robes, groves191 of palm trees, while nearer to us we see the half-ruined tombs of the Caliphs and Mamelukes, the citadel and the beautiful mosque41 of Mehemet Ali full of carved columns of alabaster192. To the late burning heat which we encountered in the desert succeeds a soft, balmy, dry air, and the beautiful and varied193 hues194 of the setting sun is reflected from the glittering mosques and minarets, rocks and sands, presenting a picture which will not soon fade from my memory, and which requires the poetry, eloquence195, and pen of a Byron to adequately describe. In striking contrast to the beautiful scene we had just enjoyed was the wretched-looking houses of the Arabs, the squalor, dirt and miserable196 pathways on the hill-side which we encountered immediately afterwards as we pursued our homeward journey.
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1
fertilizing
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| v.施肥( fertilize的现在分词 ) | |
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saviour
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| n.拯救者，救星 | |
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petrified
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| adj.惊呆的；目瞪口呆的v.使吓呆，使惊呆；变僵硬；使石化(petrify的过去式和过去分词) | |
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citadel
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| n.城堡；堡垒；避难所 | |
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procure
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| vt.获得，取得，促成；vi.拉皮条 | |
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mattress
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| n.床垫，床褥 | |
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minor
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| adj.较小(少)的，较次要的；n.辅修学科；vi.辅修 | |
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tracts
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| 大片土地( tract的名词复数 )； 地带； （体内的）道； （尤指宣扬宗教、伦理或政治的）短文 | |
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accomplished
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| adj.有才艺的；有造诣的；达到了的 | |
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laborious
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| adj.吃力的，努力的，不流畅 | |
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tributaries
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| n. 支流 | |
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salaam
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| n.额手之礼，问安，敬礼；v.行额手礼 | |
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excavated
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| v.挖掘( excavate的过去式和过去分词 )；开凿；挖出；发掘 | |
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junction
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| n.连接，接合；交叉点，接合处，枢纽站 | |
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15
precipitated
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| v.（突如其来地）使发生( precipitate的过去式和过去分词 )；促成；猛然摔下；使沉淀 | |
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16
wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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18
imp
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| n.顽童 | |
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tributary
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| n.支流；纳贡国；adj.附庸的；辅助的；支流的 | |
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refreshments
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| n.点心,便餐;(会议后的)简单茶点招 待 | |
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figs
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| figures 数字，图形，外形 | |
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afflicted
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| 使受痛苦，折磨( afflict的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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eyelids
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| n.眼睑( eyelid的名词复数 )；眼睛也不眨一下；不露声色；面不改色 | |
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24
hem
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| n.贴边，镶边；vt.缝贴边；(in)包围，限制 | |
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partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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buffalo
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| n.(北美)野牛；(亚洲)水牛 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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29
trot
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| n.疾走，慢跑；n.老太婆；现成译本；(复数）trots:腹泻（与the 连用）；v.小跑，快步走，赶紧 | |
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trotting
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| 小跑，急走( trot的现在分词 )； 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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cuisine
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| n.烹调，烹饪法 | |
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32
attentive
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| adj.注意的，专心的；关心(别人)的，殷勤的 | |
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plantations
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| n.种植园，大农场( plantation的名词复数 ) | |
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disturbances
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| n.骚乱( disturbance的名词复数 )；打扰；困扰；障碍 | |
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35
sumptuous
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| adj.豪华的，奢侈的，华丽的 | |
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annually
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| adv.一年一次，每年 | |
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inundated
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| v.淹没( inundate的过去式和过去分词 )；（洪水般地）涌来；充满；给予或交予（太多事物）使难以应付 | |
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38
overflowing
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| n. 溢出物,溢流 adj. 充沛的，充满的 动词overflow的现在分词形式 | |
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39
Christians
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| n.基督教徒( Christian的名词复数 ) | |
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40
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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41
mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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mosques
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| 清真寺； 伊斯兰教寺院，清真寺； 清真寺，伊斯兰教寺院( mosque的名词复数 ) | |
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43
gunpowder
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| n.火药 | |
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44
linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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45
conspicuous
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| adj.明眼的，惹人注目的；炫耀的，摆阔气的 | |
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46
edifices
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| n.大建筑物( edifice的名词复数 ) | |
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47
remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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48
ornamented
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| adj.花式字体的v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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49
minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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50
minaret
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| n.（回教寺院的）尖塔 | |
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51
Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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52
bazaars
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| （东方国家的）市场( bazaar的名词复数 )； 义卖； 义卖市场； （出售花哨商品等的）小商品市场 | |
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53
auction
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| n.拍卖；拍卖会；vt.拍卖 | |
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54
missionary
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| adj.教会的，传教(士)的；n.传教士 | |
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55
hegira
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| n.逃亡 | |
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56
overthrow
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| v.推翻，打倒，颠覆；n.推翻，瓦解，颠覆 | |
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57
fortified
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| adj. 加强的 | |
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58
transpiring
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| （事实，秘密等）被人知道( transpire的现在分词 )； 泄露； 显露； 发生 | |
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59
dealing
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| n.经商方法，待人态度 | |
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60
shrines
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| 圣地，圣坛，神圣场所( shrine的名词复数 ) | |
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61
abounds
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的第三人称单数 ) | |
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62
abode
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| n.住处，住所 | |
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63
celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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64
delta
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| n.（流的）角洲 | |
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waggons
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| 四轮的运货马车( waggon的名词复数 )； 铁路货车； 小手推车 | |
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66
reverenced
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| v.尊敬，崇敬( reverence的过去式和过去分词 )；敬礼 | |
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67
landmark
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| n.陆标，划时代的事，地界标 | |
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68
herds
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| 兽群( herd的名词复数 )； 牧群； 人群； 群众 | |
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69
hieroglyphics
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| n.pl.象形文字 | |
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70
conqueror
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| n.征服者，胜利者 | |
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71
reigned
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| vi.当政，统治（reign的过去式形式） | |
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foretold
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| v.预言，预示( foretell的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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dominion
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| n.统治，管辖，支配权；领土，版图 | |
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74
plundered
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| 掠夺，抢劫( plunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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75
scourged
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| 鞭打( scourge的过去式和过去分词 )； 惩罚，压迫 | |
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followers
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| 追随者( follower的名词复数 )； 用户； 契据的附面； 从动件 | |
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addicted
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| adj.沉溺于....的，对...上瘾的 | |
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78
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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79
fowling
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| 捕鸟，打鸟 | |
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80
hippopotamus
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| n.河马 | |
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81
catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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82
tenants
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| n.房客( tenant的名词复数 )；佃户；占用者；占有者 | |
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83
sedately
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| adv.镇静地，安详地 | |
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84
slit
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| n.狭长的切口；裂缝；vt.切开，撕裂 | |
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85
lustrous
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| adj.有光泽的；光辉的 | |
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86
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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87
conceal
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，隐蔽 | |
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88
conceals
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的第三人称单数 ) | |
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89
picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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90
picturesquely
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91
tassel
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| n.流苏，穗；v.抽穗， （玉米）长穗须 | |
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92
gracefully
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| ad.大大方方地；优美地 | |
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93
tassels
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| n.穗( tassel的名词复数 )；流苏状物；（植物的）穗；玉蜀黍的穗状雄花v.抽穗， （玉米）长穗须( tassel的第三人称单数 )；使抽穗， （为了使作物茁壮生长）摘去穗状雄花；用流苏装饰 | |
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94
soliciting
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| v.恳求( solicit的现在分词 )；（指娼妇）拉客；索求；征求 | |
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95
kindle
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| v.点燃，着火 | |
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96
arabesque
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| n.阿拉伯式花饰；adj.阿拉伯式图案的 | |
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97
luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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98
divans
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| n.（可作床用的）矮沙发( divan的名词复数 )；（波斯或其他东方诗人的）诗集 | |
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99
rattling
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| adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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100
shrill
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| adj.尖声的；刺耳的；v尖叫 | |
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101
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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102
concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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103
inconvenient
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| adj.不方便的，令人感到麻烦的 | |
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104
strap
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| n.皮带，带子；v.用带扣住，束牢；用绷带包扎 | |
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105
ignominious
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| adj.可鄙的，不光彩的，耻辱的 | |
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106
humbles
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| v.使谦恭( humble的第三人称单数 )；轻松打败（尤指强大的对手）；低声下气 | |
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107
rammed
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| v.夯实（土等）( ram的过去式和过去分词 )；猛撞；猛压；反复灌输 | |
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108
pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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109
cannons
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| n.加农炮，大炮，火炮( cannon的名词复数 ) | |
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110
possessed
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| adj.疯狂的；拥有的，占有的 | |
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111
expatiating
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| v.详述，细说( expatiate的现在分词 ) | |
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112
promptly
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| adv.及时地，敏捷地 | |
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113
consign
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| vt.寄售（货品），托运，交托，委托 | |
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114
derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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115
descends
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| v.下来( descend的第三人称单数 )；下去；下降；下斜 | |
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116
frantically
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| ad.发狂地, 发疯地 | |
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117
adroitly
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| adv.熟练地，敏捷地 | |
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118
dexterity
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| n.(手的)灵巧，灵活 | |
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119
derives
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| v.得到( derive的第三人称单数 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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120
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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121
darted
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| v.投掷，投射( dart的过去式和过去分词 )；向前冲，飞奔 | |
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122
alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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123
mythical
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| adj.神话的；虚构的；想像的 | |
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124
entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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125
alias
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| n.化名；别名；adv.又名 | |
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126
lotion
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| n.洗剂 | |
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127
lotions
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| n.洗液，洗剂，护肤液( lotion的名词复数 ) | |
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128
blessings
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| n.（上帝的）祝福( blessing的名词复数 )；好事；福分；因祸得福 | |
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129
vagrant
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| n.流浪者，游民；adj.流浪的，漂泊不定的 | |
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130
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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131
virgin
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| n.处女，未婚女子；adj.未经使用的；未经开发的 | |
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132
bloody
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| adj.非常的的；流血的；残忍的；adv.很；vt.血染 | |
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133
persecuting
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| （尤指宗教或政治信仰的）迫害(~sb. for sth.)( persecute的现在分词 )； 烦扰，困扰或骚扰某人 | |
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134
monk
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| n.和尚，僧侣，修道士 | |
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135
piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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136
ascetic
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| adj.禁欲的；严肃的 | |
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137
stationary
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| adj.固定的，静止不动的 | |
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138
itinerant
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| adj.巡回的；流动的 | |
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139
seclusion
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| n.隐遁，隔离 | |
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140
bind
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| vt.捆，包扎；装订；约束；使凝固；vi.变硬 | |
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141
statutes
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| 成文法( statute的名词复数 )； 法令； 法规； 章程 | |
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142
novice
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| adj.新手的，生手的 | |
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143
monastery
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| n.修道院，僧院，寺院 | |
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144
chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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145
reverently
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| adv.虔诚地 | |
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146
saluted
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| v.欢迎，致敬( salute的过去式和过去分词 )；赞扬，赞颂 | |
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147
obeisance
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| n.鞠躬，敬礼 | |
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148
animated
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| adj.生气勃勃的，活跃的，愉快的 | |
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149
revolve
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| vi.(使)旋转；循环出现 | |
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150
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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151
exertions
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| n.努力( exertion的名词复数 )；费力；（能力、权力等的）运用；行使 | |
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152
exertion
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| n.尽力，努力 | |
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153
contortions
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| n.扭歪，弯曲；扭曲，弄歪，歪曲( contortion的名词复数 ) | |
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154
formerly
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| adv.从前，以前 | |
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155
frenzy
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| n.疯狂，狂热，极度的激动 | |
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156
miraculous
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| adj.像奇迹一样的，不可思议的 | |
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157
interpretation
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| n.解释，说明，描述；艺术处理 | |
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158
necessitate
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| v.使成为必要，需要 | |
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159
gilding
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| n.贴金箔，镀金 | |
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160
coffins
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| n.棺材( coffin的名词复数 )；使某人早亡[死，完蛋，垮台等]之物 | |
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161
craftsman
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| n.技工，精于一门工艺的匠人 | |
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162
joints
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| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
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163
exquisitely
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| adv.精致地；强烈地；剧烈地；异常地 | |
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164
twine
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| v.搓，织，编饰；（使）缠绕 | |
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165
javelins
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| n.标枪( javelin的名词复数 ) | |
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166
slings
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| 抛( sling的第三人称单数 )； 吊挂； 遣送； 押往 | |
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167
mallet
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| n.槌棒 | |
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168
precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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169
illustrate
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| v.举例说明，阐明；图解，加插图 | |
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170
civilized
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| a.有教养的，文雅的 | |
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171
exclusion
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| n.拒绝，排除，排斥，远足，远途旅行 | |
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172
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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173
expressive
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| adj.表现的，表达…的，富于表情的 | |
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174
prim
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| adj.拘泥形式的，一本正经的；n.循规蹈矩，整洁；adv.循规蹈矩地，整洁地 | |
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175
monarchy
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| n.君主，最高统治者；君主政体，君主国 | |
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176
reposing
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| v.将（手臂等）靠在某人（某物）上( repose的现在分词 ) | |
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177
inscribed
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| v.写，刻( inscribe的过去式和过去分词 )；内接 | |
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178
engraved
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| v.在（硬物）上雕刻（字，画等）( engrave的过去式和过去分词 )；将某事物深深印在（记忆或头脑中） | |
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179
durable
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| adj.持久的，耐久的 | |
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180
contemplated
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| adj. 预期的 动词contemplate的过去分词形式 | |
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181
sepulchral
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| adj.坟墓的，阴深的 | |
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182
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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183
iconoclastic
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| adj.偶像破坏的，打破旧习的 | |
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184
apprehensions
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| 疑惧 | |
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185
strewed
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| v.撒在…上( strew的过去式和过去分词 )；散落于；点缀；撒满 | |
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186
desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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187
ascertain
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| vt.发现，确定，查明，弄清 | |
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188
allusion
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| n.暗示，间接提示 | |
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189
twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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190
panorama
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| n.全景，全景画，全景摄影，全景照片[装置] | |
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191
groves
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| 树丛，小树林( grove的名词复数 ) | |
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192
alabaster
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| adj.雪白的；n.雪花石膏；条纹大理石 | |
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193
varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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194
hues
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| 色彩( hue的名词复数 )； 色调； 信仰； 观点 | |
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195
eloquence
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| n.雄辩；口才，修辞 | |
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196
miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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