We arrived at our hotel rather tired, and felt it quite a relief to stretch our legs out straight after having them cramped2 up so long whilst on our donkeys. Having partaken of a good dinner, I adjourned3 to the balcony with a cigarette, sank into an easy lounge, and communed with my own thoughts. I had not been here long before I discovered sitting near me an individual, apparently4 about 23 years of age, whose nether5 extremities6 rested on the back of a chair, his feet being parallel with his chin. He was dressed in a somewhat outré manner, the lower limbs being encased in check prolongations; the body in a brown coat, something like a sack in shape; the throat was surrounded by a loose, turn-down collar, and loose[68] neckerchief, whilst the summit of this curious specimen7 of humanity was crowned by a huge felt hat, with an enormous brim. The clouds of smoke which he emitted from his mouth rivalled a young volcano; he was smoking a cigar, and did not forget to expectorate in a most profuse8 and dangerous manner, so much so that, feeling in somewhat dangerous proximity9 to the fire of his artillery10, I got up with the intention of escaping any little salivary11 accidents; but my silent companion had his eye on me, and thus suddenly addressed me in the decidedly nasal accent and twang peculiar12 to the inhabitants of America—
“Stranger, I guess this Cairo is a tarnation rummy place?”
Seeing no reason to dispute this by no means rash assertion, I readily conceded the point; and, by way of carrying on the conversation, ventured to remark that—
“It certainly is a very curious and interesting old place, and the inhabitants no less so.”
He: “That’s so, sirree; they are queer beggars, and so are their wimen.”
This also was an indisputable fact, and I acknowledged that they were a strange race, strongly wedded13 to old customs, and as strongly opposed to innovations.
[69]
He: “Stranger, yew14 don’t roost here, I guess?”
I: “No; I am just travelling for a few months, and shall leave Cairo in two or three days’ time.”
He: “In what line may you be travelling, stranger?”
Now, of course I knew what he meant, but thought his remarks were so original, not to say impertinent, that I must not omit this opportunity of extracting some amusement, and provide material for my diary. I therefore replied—
“Oh! I came by the P. and O. line to Alexandria, by rail here, and now my lines have fallen in pleasant places.”
“Guess yew don’t quite fathom15 me. What’s yer business, and where are you going tew?” said he.
I then gave him the names of a number of places in Egypt and the Soudan, enumerating16 them as rapidly as I could, so that I am quite sure my nasal friend was very little the wiser for the information.
He enshrouded himself in a huge cloud of smoke, vigorously expectorated once more, and regarding me fixedly17 for a moment, exclaimed—
“By Jupiter! stranger, that’s a large order. Opening up a trade or colonize18, I guess.”
I suppose, because I told him I was travelling with six other gentlemen, he thought we were going to start a colony somewhere, and then annex19 all the[70] adjacent country, which, by the way, would certainly be a very good thing for the Egyptians and the Soudanese, and very probably for ourselves also. However, I gave him to understand that we were simply travelling for pleasure, exploration, and sport. Notwithstanding this, my Yankee acquaintance was determined20 to turn me inside out if he could; he, therefore, was so complimentary21 as to say—
“Well, now, I guess you are a gentleman?”
To this I answered—
“Thanks; I trust your surmise22 is a correct one;” and I might have said, but I did not, “Sorry I cannot return the compliment.”
I have often heard of the pertinacity23 of an American reporter, but it appears to me that the bump of inquisitiveness24 is not by any means confined to them, but pervades25 the whole community. There was no shilly-shallying, no delicate, nicely-worded hints and adroitly-put questions; but my interrogator26 was determined to find out all about me if he could, and so he asked me how long I had been in Cairo, how old I was, if I was married or single, how many children I had, if I lived on my money, and lots of the most impertinent questions, and finally finished up by saying, “Guess you are a Britisher?”
[71]
Having, as he thought, pumped me pretty considerably27, he was good enough to take me into his confidence, and tell me all about himself, and his belongings28, and “hew his father had left him a pile,” adding, “Guess I spend some, and move about a bit.” I could not help saying—
“I think you are wise to pursue that course; travel will improve you a good deal, and, like the marble statuary in the Baulac Museum, it will put on a little polish.”
He eulogised the States and the inhabitants thereof, and was apparently under the impression that America was the only place worth speaking of, winding29 up with the quite unnecessary announcement—
“I’m ’Merican.”
“Oh, yes,” I replied; “I knew at once you were an American.”
“Yes; is that so?” said he. “Hew did ye know that, stranger?”
“Well,” said I, “by your accent, the estimate you form of your country, and, pardon me for saying so, but no one but an American would have asked me such questions as you have, or manifested such a desire to find out all about me and my affairs.”
He did not appear to be at all annoyed at this remark, but merely said—
[72]
“By thunder! stranger, you are a queer coon. Will you come and liquor?”
I declined with thanks, and left young America to ponder over the inscrutable ways and manners of the “darned Britisher.” He was evidently the offspring of a parent who, perchance, had “struck ile,” and had never before forsaken30 his ancestral home in search of travel and adventure; and, if such was the case, we must excuse the young man. As soon as I left him I sought my bedroom, chronicled the above conversation in my diary, and retired31 to bed, where I slept soundly.
The following day I and three others formed a party for a visit to the far-famed pyramids of Gizeh. We chartered a carriage, taking our lunch with us; and from the time we left Shepheard’s Hotel until we returned that hateful word, “Backsheesh,” resounded32 in our ears; indeed, I should say that there is no word in the Egyptian language so frequently on the tip of an Arab tongue as that. I should suppose that the pyramids of Gizeh are about ten miles from Cairo. There is a pretty good road, which was constructed by the former Khedive, Ismail, specially33 to accommodate the Prince of Wales when he visited the place some years ago. During our drive we could almost have imagined that a line of sentries34 had been posted all along the road specially[73] to utter that horrid35 word, “Backsheesh,” so continuously were our tympanums offended with it. Arrived at the base of the Great Pyramid, we are immediately surrounded by a considerable number of Arabs, who are all anxious to assist us in the ascent, of course, for a small consideration; but one of our party having been there once before, knew how to set about matters in a business-like way, so he demanded at once the presence of the Pyramid Sheik, who very soon came. We told him we did not want all this crowd of Arabs, but two each would be sufficient. Accordingly he allotted36 us these, but as he suggested that a third would be desirable to push us up from behind, we had him. Those who have ascended38 the Great Pyramid are not likely to forget the dusky demons39 who accompany them.
I commence the ascent with my body-guard, who appear now to look upon me as a piece of brittle40 china, and are most anxious to prevent me using my limbs in my own way—they will not let me take a step without their assistance. Directly I had started I found my body-guard considerably augmented41, and notwithstanding repeated warnings that I did not want them, and that they would not get any backsheesh, they stuck to me all the way up and back. For the time being I belong solely[74] to these energetic, incessantly42-chattering Arabs, whose most strenuous43 efforts were now put forth44 to damaging my ball and socket45 joints46.
I have to ascend37 203 steps—the lower steps are about four feet high, and few of them less than three feet anywhere. The two Arabs in front get on to the step I have to land on; each seizes an arm, one gets behind, and the hoisting47 process begins. The latter gives the cue, and with a loud “Ha-hu,” up I go from one step to the other. This game goes on with great rapidity, until I had got about half-way up, where I think it advisable to rest awhile. So down I sat, but soon found that instead of three Arabs I was at once surrounded by about a dozen, all talking most vehemently48 to me at the same time. It was in vain to protest—all had curiosities, scarabei, little images, and ancient coins, some of them curious, no doubt dating back to the time of Adam. For a small consideration they were all anxious to place these in my possession, and all were shouting into my ear, “Autica efendi, autica.” At last, for peace sake, I bought a small image of a defunct49 Pharaoh from one, and from another three or four copper50 coins, all, of course, the only genuine. In vain I protested against having any more. I had no peace until I had bought something from each one; in fact, I had no quiet until I turned all[75] my pockets inside out, showing conclusively51 that I had spent every piaster with them. After resting awhile, we continued the ascent, and after a succession of ha-hus, tugs52, and hoistings, I at last found myself on the summit of the Great Pyramid, and well rewarded for the trouble I had taken.
Here, in this bright, clear atmosphere, I saw stretching out for miles on the west the Libyan Desert, and reaching out before and around us in vast extent the classic and historic hills, rivers, and plains of Ham and Mizraim, Heliopolis, Memphis, Mount Mokattam, Sakhara, the beautiful city of Cairo, with its numberless mosques54 and slender minarets55, skirted by the outstretched Nile, bearing on its placid56 bosom57 hundreds of dahabeahs, and on its banks tall waving palm-trees. Nearer is the village of Gizeh, and closer still the remaining pyramids of Gizeh, the granite58 temple, and the sphinx, the whole forming a picture that cannot be effaced59 in a life-time.
It is said with some truth, “Time tries all,” but I have also heard it said that “the pyramids try time,” and, upon my word, it almost seems so, when we think of their great antiquity60. Here they have stood for thousands of years in majestic61 grandeur62, looking down on many Pharaohs and many dynasties, and witnessing the rise, greatness,[76] and decline of a once mighty63 nation. Abraham, Isaac, Jacob, Joseph, and Moses have gazed on these huge piles of masonry64, which raised their lofty heads long, long before Abraham in a day of famine sought bread at the hands of Pharaoh.
When I had spent some time in gazing again and again on this beautiful scene, and thoroughly65 succeeded in obtaining a mental photograph of it, I commenced the descent, and found I could get down much more comfortably without assistance than with; but this the pertinacious66 Arabs would not hear of, they said, on account of the danger to me. But my own private opinion was that they wanted to earn good backsheesh by persistent67 attention. I resigned myself to my fate, and at last reached the foot of the pyramid by a series of jumps and bumps very trying to my spinal68 column, and which joggled my internal economy most unpleasantly.
After a short rest, we explored the interior, a rather difficult achievement in some parts. We had brought a good substantial luncheon69 with us from the hotel, which we thankfully disposed of at a house, or palace, near by. This was specially built, I believe, either for the Prince of Wales or the Empress Eugenie, I really forget which. After lunch we visited the sphinx, two or three tombs,[77] and the other two pyramids, settled up with the sheik, and drove off to our hotel; and not until I reached the steps of the hotel did I hear the last of that hateful word “Backsheesh.” When I retired to rest I dreamt of a pocketful of large copper coins and scarabei, an armful of defunct Pharaohs, an army of lithe70, sinewy71, swarthy, impecunious72 Arabs, amongst whom I had scattered73 a ship-load of piasters, and “still they were not happy.”
Before I have done entirely74 with the pyramids, I think I ought to say something about them, as those at Gizeh are the most remarkable75. This group consists of nine, and comprises three of the most remarkable monuments in existence—those of Cheops, Cephren, and that of Mycerinus, the last-named much smaller than the other two. Herodotus, who was born about 500 B.C., tells us that in building the great pyramid of Cheops it took 100,000 men working incessantly for 30 years to complete it; 10 years of this 30 was spent in making a causeway 3,000 feet long, to facilitate the transportation of the stone from the Turah quarries76. Herodotus describes the method of building by steps, and raising the stones from layer to layer by machines, and finally of facing the external portion from the top down. Its present height is 460 feet, the original height was 480 feet.
[78]
The extent of solid masonry has been estimated at 82,111,000 cubic feet. It at present covers 12 acres. The only entrance is on the north face, 49 feet above the base, though the masonry has been so much broken away that the débris reaches nearly up to it. A passage, 3 feet 11 inches high and 3 feet 5? inches wide, conducts from the entrance down a slope at an angle of 26° 41′, a distance of 320 feet 10 inches to the original sepulchral77 chamber78, commonly known as the subterraneous apartment; it is carried, reduced in dimensions, beyond this a distance of 52 feet 9 inches into the rock, though for what purpose remains79 a matter of conjecture80. The sepulchral chamber is 46 feet long by 27 feet wide, and 11? feet high. From the entrance passage another branches off and leads to several other passages and chambers81. One of the latter, known as the Queen’s Chamber, is situated82 about the middle of the pyramid, 67 feet above the base; it has a groined roof, and measures 17 feet broad by 18 feet 9 inches long and 20 feet 3 inches high. The other, called the King’s Chamber, is reached by an offshoot from the Queen’s Passage, 150 feet long. Its dimensions are 34 feet 3 inches long by 17 feet 1 inch wide, and 19 feet 1 inch high. The chamber is lined with red granite highly polished, single stones reaching from the floor to[79] the ceiling, and the ceiling itself is formed of nine large slabs83 of polished granite extending from wall to wall. The only contents of the apartment is a sarcophagus of red granite, which, judging by its dimensions, must have been introduced when the building was proceeding84. It is supposed to have contained a wooden coffin85 with the mummy of the king, and that these long since disappeared when the pyramids were first opened and plundered86. We do not see these pyramids as they originally were. The outer casing of polished stone has been removed and utilized87 in constructing the mosque53 of Sultan Hassan. These pyramids were built between 5,000 and 6,000 years ago. Great was the antiquity of Thebes before European history begins to dawn. It was declining before the foundations of Rome were laid, but the building of the great pyramids of Gizeh preceded the earliest history of Thebes by 1,000 years. Whilst speaking of Thebes, I’ll just mention that there are to be seen to-day the tomb of the great Sethos, Joseph’s Pharaoh, of his greater son, Rameses II., and of Menophres or Meneptha, in whose reign88 the Exodus89 took place. In the tomb of Sethos, coloured sculptures cover 320 feet of the excavation90. There is to be seen the draughtsman’s handiwork in red colour, showing the designs that were to be executed by the sculptor,[80] and the corrections in black ink of the superintendent91 of such works, and although these sketches92 were made 3,000 years ago, they are still quite clear and fresh-looking. On the east side of the pyramid, half buried in sand, is the wonderful colossal93 Sphinx, his head 25 feet high and back 100 feet long, all one stone.
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1
ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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cramped
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| a.狭窄的 | |
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adjourned
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| （使）休会， （使）休庭( adjourn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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nether
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| adj.下部的，下面的；n.阴间；下层社会 | |
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extremities
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| n.端点( extremity的名词复数 )；尽头；手和足；极窘迫的境地 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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profuse
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| adj.很多的，大量的，极其丰富的 | |
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9
proximity
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| n.接近，邻近 | |
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artillery
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| n.(军)火炮，大炮；炮兵(部队) | |
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salivary
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| adj. 唾液的 | |
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12
peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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13
wedded
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| adj.正式结婚的；渴望…的，执著于…的v.嫁，娶，（与…）结婚( wed的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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14
yew
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| n.紫杉属树木 | |
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fathom
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| v.领悟，彻底了解 | |
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enumerating
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| v.列举，枚举，数( enumerate的现在分词 ) | |
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17
fixedly
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| adv.固定地；不屈地，坚定不移地 | |
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colonize
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| v.建立殖民地，拓殖；定居，居于 | |
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annex
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| vt.兼并，吞并；n.附属建筑物 | |
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determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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complimentary
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| adj.赠送的，免费的，赞美的，恭维的 | |
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surmise
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| v./n.猜想，推测 | |
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pertinacity
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| n.执拗，顽固 | |
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inquisitiveness
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| 好奇，求知欲 | |
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pervades
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| v.遍及，弥漫( pervade的第三人称单数 ) | |
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interrogator
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| n.讯问者；审问者；质问者；询问器 | |
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considerably
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| adv.极大地；相当大地；在很大程度上 | |
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belongings
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| n.私人物品，私人财物 | |
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winding
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| n.绕，缠，绕组，线圈 | |
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30
Forsaken
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| adj. 被遗忘的, 被抛弃的 动词forsake的过去分词 | |
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retired
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| adj.隐退的，退休的，退役的 | |
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resounded
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| v.（指声音等）回荡于某处( resound的过去式和过去分词 )；产生回响；（指某处）回荡着声音 | |
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specially
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| adv.特定地；特殊地；明确地 | |
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sentries
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| 哨兵，步兵( sentry的名词复数 ) | |
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horrid
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| adj.可怕的；令人惊恐的；恐怖的；极讨厌的 | |
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allotted
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| 分配，拨给，摊派( allot的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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ascended
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| v.上升，攀登( ascend的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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demons
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| n.恶人( demon的名词复数 )；恶魔；精力过人的人；邪念 | |
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brittle
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| adj.易碎的；脆弱的；冷淡的；(声音)尖利的 | |
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Augmented
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| adj.增音的 动词augment的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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42
incessantly
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| ad.不停地 | |
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43
strenuous
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| adj.奋发的，使劲的；紧张的；热烈的，狂热的 | |
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44
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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socket
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| n.窝，穴，孔，插座，插口 | |
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46
joints
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| 接头( joint的名词复数 )； 关节； 公共场所（尤指价格低廉的饮食和娱乐场所） （非正式）； 一块烤肉 （英式英语） | |
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47
hoisting
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| 起重，提升 | |
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vehemently
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| adv. 热烈地 | |
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49
defunct
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| adj.死亡的；已倒闭的 | |
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50
copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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51
conclusively
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| adv.令人信服地，确凿地 | |
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52
tugs
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| n.猛拉( tug的名词复数 )；猛拖；拖船v.用力拉，使劲拉，猛扯( tug的第三人称单数 ) | |
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53
mosque
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| n.清真寺 | |
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54
mosques
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| 清真寺； 伊斯兰教寺院，清真寺； 清真寺，伊斯兰教寺院( mosque的名词复数 ) | |
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55
minarets
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| n.（清真寺旁由报告祈祷时刻的人使用的）光塔( minaret的名词复数 ) | |
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56
placid
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| adj.安静的，平和的 | |
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57
bosom
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| n.胸，胸部；胸怀；内心；adj.亲密的 | |
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58
granite
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| adj.花岗岩，花岗石 | |
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59
effaced
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| v.擦掉( efface的过去式和过去分词 )；抹去；超越；使黯然失色 | |
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60
antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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61
majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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62
grandeur
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| n.伟大，崇高，宏伟，庄严，豪华 | |
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63
mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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64
masonry
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| n.砖土建筑；砖石 | |
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65
thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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66
pertinacious
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| adj.顽固的 | |
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67
persistent
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| adj.坚持不懈的，执意的；持续的 | |
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spinal
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| adj.针的，尖刺的，尖刺状突起的；adj.脊骨的，脊髓的 | |
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luncheon
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| n.午宴，午餐，便宴 | |
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lithe
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| adj.(指人、身体)柔软的，易弯的 | |
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sinewy
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| adj.多腱的，强壮有力的 | |
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impecunious
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| adj.不名一文的，贫穷的 | |
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scattered
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| adj.分散的，稀疏的；散步的；疏疏落落的 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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76
quarries
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| n.（采）石场( quarry的名词复数 )；猎物（指鸟，兽等）；方形石；（格窗等的）方形玻璃v.从采石场采得( quarry的第三人称单数 )；从（书本等中）努力发掘（资料等）；在采石场采石 | |
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sepulchral
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| adj.坟墓的，阴深的 | |
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chamber
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| n.房间，寝室；会议厅；议院；会所 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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81
chambers
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| n.房间( chamber的名词复数 )；（议会的）议院；卧室；会议厅 | |
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82
situated
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| adj.坐落在...的，处于某种境地的 | |
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slabs
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| n.厚板，平板，厚片( slab的名词复数 )；厚胶片 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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coffin
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| n.棺材，灵柩 | |
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plundered
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| 掠夺，抢劫( plunder的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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utilized
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| v.利用，使用( utilize的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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exodus
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| v.大批离去，成群外出 | |
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excavation
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| n.挖掘，发掘；被挖掘之地 | |
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superintendent
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| n.监督人，主管，总监；(英国)警务长 | |
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sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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colossal
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| adj.异常的，庞大的 | |
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