But, thank Heaven, the world is great and I am insignificant14; Russian censorship has not yet taken notice of all the sins of my pen; hence the same officer returns to me with the same bow my passport after the customs inspection16. The holy Russian empire, from Warsaw to Vladivostok, is now exposed to my curious eyes.
The customs inspection was in itself a peculiar17 experience. The porter, a Pole with a good-natured, handsome face, takes our baggage and baggage-certificate, and invites us with a friendly gesture to follow him to the great inspection hall. The hall is scrupulously19 clean and no loud talking is heard there. The passengers take their places on one side of the inspection-table, the porters on the other, the latter in orderly file with their caps in their hands. They communicate with one another only with their eyes. Silence has begun. I do not[Pg 10] know whether it is purposely so, or whether it is merely incidental to the particularly strict local régime, that the implicit20 obedience21, the silent subjection, and the irresistible22 power of despotism are here brought home so effectively to the stranger. But this impression remains23 with the traveller throughout the entire journey:
"Be silent, restrain yourselves,
We are watched in word and look."
An empire of one hundred and thirty millions of prisoners and of one million jailers—such is Russia; and these jailers understand no joke. It is a terrible machinery24, this despotism, with all its wheels working one within the other. It is relentless25 and keen in all its mechanism26, henceforth no loud word shall be spoken. The official organs alone have a voice; private persons may speak only in low tones.
But how orderly, politely, and neatly27 do the officials and porters execute the examination and forwarding of our baggage when despotism wishes to reconcile people to its threatening silence. Only ten kopeks, turned into the common treasury28, are asked for the handling of our large amount of baggage, and we are then led, together with the other travellers, to the Russian exit of the customs inspection hall. After a short wait there the gate is opened, and at a given signal we are marched out of the hall in single file to refresh ourselves, before the departure of the train, with a little breakfast.
[Pg 11]
Scrupulous18 cleanliness reigns29 in the large, airy restaurant also. We are in the land of caviar. Caviar sandwiches, appetizingly prepared, lie on the buffet-table. "Caviar" may also be found in one or another of the foreign papers offered for sale by the newsboys. When the censorship finds it inconvenient30 to eliminate entire pages whose contents are objectionable, it generously spreads printer's ink on the condemned31 passages, scatters32 sand over them, and puts the whole in the press. The result is a lattice-like pattern, not unlike in appearance to pressed caviar, to which the Russian, with good-natured self-derision, applies the term "press-caviar," an expression which has a two-fold meaning. Caviar is admittedly regarded as an easily digestible food. The Russian censor15 considers his caviar more useful and less harmful than that which ill-advised men in foreign countries allow themselves to print.
A few glasses of tea drawn33 from a samovar drive away the last traces of the morning frost, and, wrapped in fur coats, and with a feeling like that succeeding an adventure crowned with victory, we for the first time stroll along a Russian railway platform.
We again enter the coupé, now in charge of Russian attendants.
A long, monotonous34 ride through level, swampy35 country, over which there slowly floats the gray vapor36 of the locomotive, finally brings us at dusk to Warsaw.
[Pg 12]
Nothing oppresses the spirit more deeply than such a ten-hour monotony of leaden-gray skies, dirty-gray snow, and a thick, gray, smoky mist. The gendarmes37 in gray coats at the infrequent stations; the greasy38 Jews with their long coats of uncertain color; the secret police with their questionable39 gentility, never absent—all these are not calculated to relieve the painful feeling of sadness and dreariness40. We were out of humor when we reached Warsaw. We believed that we had the right to expect crisp winter weather in Russia and were disappointed to find only mud and humidity. But perhaps Warsaw is not really Russia? Or are we still in central Europe? The evening at the hotel and the following days conclusively41 proved to us that Warsaw, indeed all Poland, with its climate, its civilization, its religion, and—its ideas, does not belong, in the real sense of the term, to Russia; that the isotherm which connects Russia proper with other regions of the same mean temperature runs considerably42 north of Poland. A Buckle43 would be puzzled by this fact alone. The dwellers44 could not be of the same race here nor the same system be possible. When, nevertheless, only one power rules here, it does so by violence and in spite of natural laws; it must give rise to resentment45 and can give no promise of permanence.
On my return journey from the heart of Russia I purposely suppressed the first impression gained by me in Warsaw, but when I was there again[Pg 13] this impression reasserted itself even more strongly. Warsaw is no more Russia than Lemberg or Dresden, in spite of the overpowering Russian churches, in spite of the innumerable Russian officers and soldiers, in spite of the obligatory46 Russian signs on the stores, which, with some experience, may be deciphered as "Chajim Berlinerblau," or something similar.
Aside from its jargon-speaking Jews, Warsaw is pre-eminently a Catholic city, and its entire civilization is Roman Catholic. Its very situation is striking. Approaching it from the Vistula, one may see where the city had built its defences—towards the east! Thence came the enemy, the Mongol, the Russian. From the east there came barbarism and oppression, therefore the fortifications and walls were built on the river-bank commanding the valley of the Vistula, through which alone an enemy could come. From the west came only the blessings47 of civilization and religion, with its messengers that once were harbingers of civilization, and which, perhaps, still remain such in this region.
Warsaw is a beautiful and fashionable city when considered apart from the sections where the Jews are crowded together. The members of its elegant society know how to live in spite of national misery48 and oppression. Hotel Bristol, the finest hotel in the city, is their rendezvous49. Here they meet one another at breakfast, at dinner, in the splendid English dining-room; men and women, guests from[Pg 14] Prussian-Poland and Galicia, noble families of the partitioned kingdom. They are of one race, one class, one caste; they know one another, like members of the same club, and all approximately the same type—somewhat overslender forms, long, nervous hands, finely sculptured noses, sharply chiselled50 temples, angular foreheads, the women supple51 and lissome52, each motion accompanied by a touch of polished affectation. When compared with this Polish aristocracy, the Russian officers, who eat at separate tables, leave the impression, with their German scholar-faces or Cossack physiognomies, of provincial53 backwardness. They are merely bourgeois54 in uniform even though they be real princes, while the Pole who has graduated from that high-school of refinement55, the Jesuit boarding-school, is an aristocrat56, a cavalier, from head to foot. They remain separate like oil and water. The Russian, even though he is the master, is of no consequence here. It is only necessary to observe for the space of an hour from some corner of the elegant dining-room of Hotel Bristol the behavior of the Polish society and the complete isolation57 of the Russian officers or officials; it is only necessary to be able to distinguish the groups from one another—the Baltic nobility with their almost bourgeois families, merchants from all the principal countries, Russian functionaries58, and Polish society—and it will at once become clear who is at home here, firmly rooted to the soil, so that all others become strangers[Pg 15] and intruders; it is the Poles and the Poles alone.
There is some talk of a change of relations that has been attempted with the aid of the French ally through the Vatican, so as to array Poland against Protestant Prussia and to reconcile it to orthodox Russia. Indeed, the Russian government has found it necessary to allow religious instructions in secondary schools to be given in the Polish mother-tongue, just at the time when the German government had on its hands the Wreschen trials. In fact, the more Prussian narrowness insults and provokes the Poles the greater are the Russian efforts to win them over. This, however, is only a political move, an attempt at bribery59 that the Poles let pass because it suits them, though one, perhaps, that the real go-betweens, the Jesuits, take in earnest, but the success of which, after all, would be contrary to all known facts of history and civilization, for it would be opposed to the national sentiment. In Russia dwells the marrow60 of the Polish nation; in Russia dwell the Polish aristocracy and that industrial middle class which has become rich and Polish in spirit in so far as it was of foreign origin; and yet in this homogeneous land of Poland the Polish language is interdicted61, so to speak, and tolerated everywhere only as a local dialect. University, gymnasiums, courts, and administration are all Russian—a Gessler hat, placed in the Russian sign of every store, on which the Latin-Polish [Pg 16]inscription may appear only in a secondary position—a proceeding62 to which no self-respecting people will submit, and need not submit, especially from a master whose so-called civilization is of far more recent origin than its own. The German in America becomes Americanized voluntarily and irresistibly63, because the English language is recognized as a more useful medium than his own, as the world-language. The Pole will never become Russianized as long as he remains on Polish soil; and no matter how significantly the "Ausgleichspolen" (Polish compromise party) flirt64 with the Russian régime, such an attitude hides a sense of annoyance65 and is not caused by real fellow-feeling. For the Pole, Germanization is an ill-fitting garment that only binds66; Russianization is a thorn in the flesh, producing pus and throwing the entire system into a fever.
点击收听单词发音
1 consulate | |
n.领事馆 | |
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2 worthy | |
adj.(of)值得的,配得上的;有价值的 | |
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3 explicitly | |
ad.明确地,显然地 | |
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4 invaluable | |
adj.无价的,非常宝贵的,极为贵重的 | |
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5 domain | |
n.(活动等)领域,范围;领地,势力范围 | |
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6 almighty | |
adj.全能的,万能的;很大的,很强的 | |
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7 gendarme | |
n.宪兵 | |
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8 prohibition | |
n.禁止;禁令,禁律 | |
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9 regularity | |
n.规律性,规则性;匀称,整齐 | |
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10 precludes | |
v.阻止( preclude的第三人称单数 );排除;妨碍;使…行不通 | |
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11 autocracy | |
n.独裁政治,独裁政府 | |
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12 scribbling | |
n.乱涂[写]胡[乱]写的文章[作品]v.潦草的书写( scribble的现在分词 );乱画;草草地写;匆匆记下 | |
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13 thoroughly | |
adv.完全地,彻底地,十足地 | |
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14 insignificant | |
adj.无关紧要的,可忽略的,无意义的 | |
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15 censor | |
n./vt.审查,审查员;删改 | |
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16 inspection | |
n.检查,审查,检阅 | |
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17 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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18 scrupulous | |
adj.审慎的,小心翼翼的,完全的,纯粹的 | |
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19 scrupulously | |
adv.一丝不苟地;小心翼翼地,多顾虑地 | |
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20 implicit | |
a.暗示的,含蓄的,不明晰的,绝对的 | |
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21 obedience | |
n.服从,顺从 | |
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22 irresistible | |
adj.非常诱人的,无法拒绝的,无法抗拒的 | |
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23 remains | |
n.剩余物,残留物;遗体,遗迹 | |
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24 machinery | |
n.(总称)机械,机器;机构 | |
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25 relentless | |
adj.残酷的,不留情的,无怜悯心的 | |
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26 mechanism | |
n.机械装置;机构,结构 | |
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27 neatly | |
adv.整洁地,干净地,灵巧地,熟练地 | |
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28 treasury | |
n.宝库;国库,金库;文库 | |
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29 reigns | |
n.君主的统治( reign的名词复数 );君主统治时期;任期;当政期 | |
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30 inconvenient | |
adj.不方便的,令人感到麻烦的 | |
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31 condemned | |
adj. 被责难的, 被宣告有罪的 动词condemn的过去式和过去分词 | |
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32 scatters | |
v.(使)散开, (使)分散,驱散( scatter的第三人称单数 );撒 | |
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33 drawn | |
v.拖,拉,拔出;adj.憔悴的,紧张的 | |
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34 monotonous | |
adj.单调的,一成不变的,使人厌倦的 | |
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35 swampy | |
adj.沼泽的,湿地的 | |
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36 vapor | |
n.蒸汽,雾气 | |
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37 gendarmes | |
n.宪兵,警官( gendarme的名词复数 ) | |
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38 greasy | |
adj. 多脂的,油脂的 | |
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39 questionable | |
adj.可疑的,有问题的 | |
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40 dreariness | |
沉寂,可怕,凄凉 | |
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41 conclusively | |
adv.令人信服地,确凿地 | |
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42 considerably | |
adv.极大地;相当大地;在很大程度上 | |
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43 buckle | |
n.扣子,带扣;v.把...扣住,由于压力而弯曲 | |
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44 dwellers | |
n.居民,居住者( dweller的名词复数 ) | |
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45 resentment | |
n.怨愤,忿恨 | |
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46 obligatory | |
adj.强制性的,义务的,必须的 | |
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47 blessings | |
n.(上帝的)祝福( blessing的名词复数 );好事;福分;因祸得福 | |
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48 misery | |
n.痛苦,苦恼,苦难;悲惨的境遇,贫苦 | |
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49 rendezvous | |
n.约会,约会地点,汇合点;vi.汇合,集合;vt.使汇合,使在汇合地点相遇 | |
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50 chiselled | |
adj.凿过的,凿光的; (文章等)精心雕琢的v.凿,雕,镌( chisel的过去式 ) | |
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51 supple | |
adj.柔软的,易弯的,逢迎的,顺从的,灵活的;vt.使柔软,使柔顺,使顺从;vi.变柔软,变柔顺 | |
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52 lissome | |
adj.柔软的;敏捷的 | |
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53 provincial | |
adj.省的,地方的;n.外省人,乡下人 | |
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54 bourgeois | |
adj./n.追求物质享受的(人);中产阶级分子 | |
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55 refinement | |
n.文雅;高尚;精美;精制;精炼 | |
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56 aristocrat | |
n.贵族,有贵族气派的人,上层人物 | |
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57 isolation | |
n.隔离,孤立,分解,分离 | |
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58 functionaries | |
n.公职人员,官员( functionary的名词复数 ) | |
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59 bribery | |
n.贿络行为,行贿,受贿 | |
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60 marrow | |
n.骨髓;精华;活力 | |
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61 interdicted | |
v.禁止(行动)( interdict的过去式和过去分词 );禁用;限制 | |
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62 proceeding | |
n.行动,进行,(pl.)会议录,学报 | |
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63 irresistibly | |
adv.无法抵抗地,不能自持地;极为诱惑人地 | |
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64 flirt | |
v.调情,挑逗,调戏;n.调情者,卖俏者 | |
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65 annoyance | |
n.恼怒,生气,烦恼 | |
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66 binds | |
v.约束( bind的第三人称单数 );装订;捆绑;(用长布条)缠绕 | |
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