THE NEGOI—THE HIGHEST MOUNTAIN IN TRANSYLVANIA, 8250 FEET HIGH.[80]
It is, in fact, only within the last half-dozen years that some attempt has been made to unlock the long range of lofty mountains which tower so invitingly2 over the Transylvanian plains, and render practicable the access to many a wild, rocky gorge3 and secluded4 loch hitherto unknown save to wandering Wallachian shepherds. A most praiseworthy institution, somewhat on the principle of the Alpine6 Club, has been formed, thanks to whose energy suitable guides have been secured and rough shelter-houses erected7 at favorable points. All this, however, is still in a very primitive9 state, and the difficulties and inconveniences attending a Transylvanian mountain excursion are yet such as will deter10 any but very ardent11 enthusiasts12 from the attempt. It is not here a question, as in Switzerland, of more or less hard walking or clambering before you can reach a good supper and a comfortable bed. Here the walking is often hard enough, but with this essential difference—that no supper, whether good or bad, can be obtained by any amount of effort; and that the bed, if by good-luck you happen to reach a hut, consists at best of a few rough boards with a meagre sprinkling of straw. You cannot hope to purchase so much{366} as a crust of bread on your way, and the crystal water which gurgles in each mountain ravine is the only beverage14 you will come across. Everything in the way of food and drink, as well as cooking utensils15, knives, forks, cups, and plates, along with rugs and blankets for the night, must be carried about packed on baggage-horses. Therefore, when a party consists of half a dozen members, and when the length of the expedition is to exceed a week, the caravan16 is apt to assume somewhat imposing17 proportions. Luckily, in the land beyond the forest prices are still moderate in the extreme, and without rank extravagance one may indulge in the luxury of two horses and one guide apiece. One florin (about 1s. 8d.) being the usual tax for a horse per diem, and the same for a man, the daily outlay18 thus amounts to five shillings only—a very small investment indeed for the enjoyment19 to be derived20 from a peregrination21 across the mountainous parts of the country. I have no doubt that all true lovers of nature will agree with me in thinking that precisely22 the rough and gypsy-like fashion in which these excursions are conducted forms their greatest charm, and that beautiful scenery is more thoroughly23 appreciated undisturbed by any seasoning24 of French-speaking waiters, table-d’h?te dinners, and wire-rope tram-ways.
This way of travelling has, moreover, the incontestable advantage of being select, and escaping the inevitable25 discords26 which continually jar upon us when moving in a tourist-frequented country. What beautiful view does not lose half its charm if its foreground be marred27 by a group savoring28 of cockneyfied gentility? Which magnificent echoes do not become vulgar when awakened29 by the shrieking30 chorus of a band of German students? Does not even a broken wine-bottle or a crumpled31 sheet of newspaper, betraying the recent presence of some other picnicking party, suffice to ruin miles of the finest landscape to an eye at all fastidious?
Here we may walk from sunrise to sunset without meeting other sign of life than some huge bird of prey32 hovering33 in mid-air above a lonely valley; and once accustomed to the daily companionship of eagles, one is apt to feel very exclusive indeed, and to regard most other society as commonplace and uninteresting.
From the moment we set foot on the wild hill-side, we have left behind us all the mean and petty conditions of every-day life. At least we have no other littlenesses to bear with than what we bring with us ready-made—our own stock-in-trade (which, of course, we cannot{367} get rid of) and that of our chosen companions. Therefore, if I may offer a friendly piece of advice to any would-be mountaineer in these parts, let him look at his friends—not twice, but full twenty times at least—before he contemplates34 cultivating their uninterrupted society at an altitude of six thousand feet above sea-level. Indeed a Transylvanian mountain excursion is not a thing to be lightly entered upon out of simple gaieté de c?ur, like any other pleasure-trip. It is a serious and solemn undertaking—almost a sort of marriage-bond—when you engage to put up, for better for worse, with any given half-dozen individuals during an equal number of days and nights. Like gold, they must previously35 have been tried by fire; and you will find very, very few people, even among your dearest friends, who, when weighed in the balance, will not be found wanting in one or other of the many qualifications which go towards making up a thoroughly congenial companion.
The pure ozone36 of these upper regions seems to act like the lens of a powerful microscope, bringing out into strong relief whatever is mean or paltry37. Sweetly feminine airs and graces which have so entranced us in the ball-room develop to positive monstrosities when transplanted to the mountain-top; an intellect which amply sufficed for the requirements of small-talk on the promenade38 or at morning calls shows pitiably barren when brought face to face with the majesty39 of nature; and a stock of amiability40 always found equal to the exigencies41 of conventional politeness very soon runs dry under the unwonted strain of a genuine demand. As in the palace of truth in the fairy tale of Madame de Genlis, nothing artificial can here remain undiscovered. You can as little hope to hide your false chignon while camping-out at night as to conceal42 the exact quality of your temper; and defects of breeding will leak out as surely as the rain will leak in through the inferior fabric43 of a cheap water-proof cloak.
On the other hand, however, be it said, that many people who in town life have appeared dull and commonplace now rise in value under the action of this powerful microscope; sterling44 qualities, whose existence we had never suspected, now come to light; and hidden delicacies45 of thought, which have had no room for expansion in the muggy46 atmosphere of conventionality, put forth47 unexpected shoots.
Such reflections are, nevertheless, but pointless digressions from the subject in hand, having nothing whatever to do with my own individual experiences; and present company being always excepted, I{368} would have it distinctly understood that we were all amiable48, all entertaining, all refined and noble-minded, when in the second week of September we started on one of these excursions—a long-cherished wish of mine whose execution had been hitherto baffled by the difficulty of finding suitable companionship.
Our party consisted of four gentlemen and two other ladies besides myself, and a six hours’ drive had taken us from Hermanstadt to the foot of the hills, where horses and guides awaited us—an imposing retinue49 of fully50 a dozen steeds and nearly as many men: the former starved, puny51-looking animals, weak and spiritless at first sight, but sure-footed as goats and with endless resisting power; the latter wild, uncouth52 fellows, with rolling black eyes and unkempt elf-locks, attired53 in coarse linen54 shirts, monstrous55 leather belts, and wearing the national opintschen on their feet.
Our provisions and utensils were packed, according to the custom of the country, in double sacks made of a sort of rough black-and-white checked flannel56, and these, along with our bundles of wraps, secured to the backs of the pack-horses—a somewhat complicated business, as the weight requires to be extremely nicely balanced on either side. It was wonderful to see how much could be piled up upon one small animal, which wellnigh disappeared beneath its bulky freight.
While this packing was going on we rested by the river-side, already enjoying a foretaste of the beauties in store for us. Dense57 beech58 woods clothed the sides of the valley down to the water’s edge, terminating as usual in a golden fringe of wild sunflowers standing59 out in broad relief from the dark background; clumps60 of bright-blue gentians and rosy61 rock-carnations were sprouting62 between the stones, and here and there the luxuriant trails of the wild hop13 hung down till they touched the water; a pair of water-ousels perched on opposite banks were making eyes at each other across the roaring torrent63, and the deep quiet pools were occasionally stirred by the leap of a silvery trout64.
At last we were told that all was ready; so, mounting our riding-horses, we commenced the ascent65. The saddles were the usual rough Hungarian wooden ones, only softened67 by a plaid or rug strapped68 over. Side-saddles are here useless, as the horses cannot be tightly girthed for climbing, and are not accustomed to the one-sided weight; so the only way to ride with comfort and safety is to imitate the example of the Roumanian queen. A very little contrivance about the{369} costume is all that is necessary in order to sit comfortably on a man’s saddle; but I found the unwonted position rather trying at first, and sought occasional relief by sitting sidewise, using the high wooden prominence69 in front as the pommel of a lady’s saddle. However, I soon relinquished70 these experiments, having very nearly come to serious grief from the saddle turning abruptly71, which undoubtedly72 would have landed me on my head had I not extricated73 myself by a frenzied74 evolution. After this experience I thought it wiser to tempt1 fate no further and meekly75 resign myself to the degradation76 of a temporary change of sex.
On this particular occasion, however, I did not for long tax the powers of my steed, it was so much pleasanter to walk up the mountain-path step by step, and enjoy at close quarters all the wonders of the forest.
For upwards77 of two hours our way led us through splendid beech woods richly carpeted with every species of ferns and mosses78, an endless vista79 of shining gray satin and soft emerald velvet80. Then by-and-by the first shy irresolute81 fir-tree appears on the scene, like a bashful rustic82 strayed unawares into the presence of royalty83. The tall majestic84 beeches85 look down contemptuously on the puny intruder; for, like ancient monarchs86 fallen asleep on their thrones, they do not conceive it possible that their reign87 should ever come to an end.
“What means this rough interloper?” they seem disdainfully to ask, as they nod in the evening breeze. “Are not we the sole lords in these realms? What seeks this insolent88 upstart in our royal presence?”
But scarcely have we gone a hundred paces farther, than again we meet the intruding89 pine, larger and stronger this time; nor is he alone, for he has brought with him a motley group of his prickly brethren. Onward90 they press from all sides, impudently91 sprouting up at the very feet of the indignant beeches—their rough green arms ruthlessly brushing against the delicate gray satin of those shining pillars, trampling92 down the emerald velvet of the carpet, like revolutionary peasants broken into a palace.
The lordly beeches make a last effort to assert their supremacy93, but the limits of their kingdom are reached; the sharp wind sweeping94 over the mountain-top, making them shake with impotent rage, is too keen for their delicate constitutions. They dwindle95 away, perish, and die, leaving the field to their hardier96 foe97.
And now King Pine has it all his own way. Le roi est mort. Vive le roi! A minute ago we had been revelling98 in the beauties of the beech forest, and now, courtier-like, we find ourselves thinking that the pine woods are more beautiful yet by far. What can be more exquisite99 than those feathery branches trailing down to the mossy carpet? what more glorious than those straight-grown stems, each one erect8 and strong, worthy5 to be the mast of a mighty100 ship? what scent66 more intoxicating101 than the perfume they breathe forth?
Our reflections are presently broken in upon by a scramble102 close at hand. One of our baggage-horses has trod upon an underground wasp’s-nest, which intrusion having been duly resented by the indignant insects, the horse takes to kicking violently, and finally rolls down the wooded incline, scattering103 our baggage as he goes. Luckily, nothing is lost or damaged, and after a little delay, the fugitive104 being captured and reladen, we are able to proceed on our way. A little more climbing, and then at last the forest walls unclose, and we stand on an open meadow of short-tufted grass, where is built the rough wood hut which is to give us shelter. To the right and left the pine woods slope upward, their shadowy outlines gradually losing themselves in the fast-gathering twilight105; and in front, at a distance of some five hundred yards, is a wall of rock overwashed by a foaming106 cascade107, whose music has been growing on our ears during the last few minutes.
The horses are relieved of their respective burdens and set loose to graze; neither hay nor oats has been provided, nor do they expect it. Our Wallachian guides busy themselves in collecting firewood and kindling108 a large camp-fire, for the triple purpose of cooking the supper, keeping themselves warm, and scaring off possible bears or wolves that may come prowling about at night in quest of a horse. There is here no difficulty in providing firewood enough for a splendid bonfire, and no tree burns with such spirit as a dead fir-tree.
It is my duty here to forestall109 all possible anticipation110, by frankly111 acknowledging that no bear ever did come to disturb us on this occasion. Yet the thought of the shaggy visitor who might at any moment be expected to drop in upon us went a long way towards enhancing the romance of the situation. During our whole stay in the mountains Bruin was like a vague intangible presence hovering around, and causing us delicious thrills of horror at every step. If{371} we plucked a branch of late raspberries on our path, it was with a trembling hand, lest a furry112 paw should appear at the other side of the bush to claim its rightful property; and we lay down to rest half expecting to be wakened by an angry growl113 close at hand. Consequently, the raspberries we ate and the sleep we snatched were sweeter far than common raspberries and every-day sleep, feeling, as we almost got to do, as though each had been fraudulently extorted114 from the bear.
Our shelter-hut, roughly put together of boards, consisted of a small entrance-lobby with stamped earth floor, and of one moderate-sized room about six paces long. All down one side, occupying fully half the depth of the apartment, ran a sort of shelf covered with straw, supposed to act as bed, where about a dozen persons might have room lying side by side. A long deal table, a wooden bench, and a row of pegs115 for hanging up the clothes completed the furniture. Besides the wooden shutters116, there were movable glass windows, which were regularly deposited in a hiding-place under the foot-boards, lest they should be wantonly broken by the all-destroying Wallachians. Each authorized117 guide only is apprised118 of their place of concealment119, to which he is careful to restore them when the party breaks up.
This particular shelter-hut is an exceptionally well-built and luxurious120 one, most such being devoid121 of windows, and often closed on one side only.
By the time we had prepared our supper and cheered ourselves with numerous cups of excellent tea it had grown quite dark, and we were thankful to seek our hard couches. A railway rug spread over the straw-covered boards rendered them quite endurable, and all superfluous122 coats and jackets were pressed into the pillow service. All of us lay down in our clothes, merely removing the boots; for it is hardly possible to dress too warmly for a night passed in these Carpathian shelter-huts; and despite the day having been so warm as to necessitate123 the thinnest summer clothing for walking, the nights were piercingly cold, and even a heavy fur sledging-cloak was not superfluous.
Though the splash of the water-fall and the tinkling124 bell of a grazing horse were the only sounds which broke the stillness of the night, yet our unwonted surroundings did not allow of much uninterrupted slumber125. But it is surprising to note to what a very minimum the necessary dose of sleep can be reduced on such occasions; the body,{372} renovated126 as by a magic potion, seems unaccountably delivered from all physical weakness; even the sore throat we had brought with us from the lower world has vanished in the pure atmosphere of the upper regions.
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1
tempt
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| vt.引诱，勾引，吸引，引起…的兴趣 | |
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invitingly
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| adv. 动人地 | |
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gorge
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| n.咽喉，胃，暴食，山峡；v.塞饱，狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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secluded
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| adj.与世隔绝的；隐退的；偏僻的v.使隔开，使隐退( seclude的过去式和过去分词) | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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alpine
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| adj.高山的；n.高山植物 | |
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7
ERECTED
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| adj. 直立的，竖立的，笔直的 vt. 使 ... 直立，建立 | |
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8
erect
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| n./v.树立，建立，使竖立；adj.直立的，垂直的 | |
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9
primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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deter
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| vt.阻止，使不敢，吓住 | |
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ardent
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| adj.热情的，热烈的，强烈的，烈性的 | |
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enthusiasts
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| n.热心人，热衷者( enthusiast的名词复数 ) | |
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hop
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| n.单脚跳，跳跃；vi.单脚跳，跳跃；着手做某事；vt.跳跃，跃过 | |
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14
beverage
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| n.(水，酒等之外的)饮料 | |
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utensils
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| 器具，用具，器皿( utensil的名词复数 )； 器物 | |
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caravan
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| n.大蓬车；活动房屋 | |
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imposing
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| adj.使人难忘的，壮丽的，堂皇的，雄伟的 | |
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outlay
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| n.费用，经费，支出；v.花费 | |
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enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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peregrination
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| n.游历，旅行 | |
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precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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seasoning
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| n.调味；调味料；增添趣味之物 | |
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inevitable
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| adj.不可避免的，必然发生的 | |
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discords
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| 不和（discord的复数形式） | |
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marred
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| adj. 被损毁, 污损的 | |
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savoring
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| v.意味，带有…的性质( savor的现在分词 )；给…加调味品；使有风味；品尝 | |
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awakened
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| v.（使）醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 )；（使）觉醒；弄醒；（使）意识到 | |
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shrieking
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| v.尖叫( shriek的现在分词 ) | |
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crumpled
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| adj. 弯扭的, 变皱的 动词crumple的过去式和过去分词形式 | |
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prey
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| n.被掠食者，牺牲者，掠食；v.捕食，掠夺，折磨 | |
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hovering
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| 鸟( hover的现在分词 )； 靠近（某事物）； （人）徘徊； 犹豫 | |
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contemplates
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的第三人称单数 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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ozone
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| n.臭氧，新鲜空气 | |
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paltry
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| adj.无价值的，微不足道的 | |
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promenade
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| n./v.散步 | |
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majesty
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| n.雄伟，壮丽，庄严，威严；最高权威，王权 | |
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amiability
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| n.和蔼可亲的，亲切的，友善的 | |
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exigencies
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| n.急切需要 | |
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conceal
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，隐蔽 | |
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43
fabric
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| n.织物，织品，布；构造，结构，组织 | |
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sterling
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| adj.英币的(纯粹的，货真价实的)；n.英国货币(英镑) | |
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delicacies
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| n.棘手( delicacy的名词复数 )；精致；精美的食物；周到 | |
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muggy
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| adj.闷热的；adv.（天气）闷热而潮湿地；n.（天气）闷热而潮湿 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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retinue
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| n.侍从；随员 | |
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50
fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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51
puny
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| adj.微不足道的，弱小的 | |
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52
uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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53
attired
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| adj.穿着整齐的v.使穿上衣服，使穿上盛装( attire的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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54
linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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55
monstrous
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| adj.巨大的；恐怖的；可耻的，丢脸的 | |
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flannel
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| n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服 | |
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dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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beech
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| n.山毛榉；adj.山毛榉的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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rosy
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| adj.美好的，乐观的，玫瑰色的 | |
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62
sprouting
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| v.发芽( sprout的现在分词 )；抽芽；出现；（使）涌现出 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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64
trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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66
scent
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| n.气味，香味，香水，线索，嗅觉；v.嗅，发觉 | |
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67
softened
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| （使）变软( soften的过去式和过去分词 )； 缓解打击； 缓和； 安慰 | |
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68
strapped
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| adj.用皮带捆住的，用皮带装饰的；身无分文的；缺钱；手头紧v.用皮带捆扎(strap的过去式和过去分词)；用皮带抽打；包扎；给…打绷带 | |
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69
prominence
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| n.突出；显著；杰出；重要 | |
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70
relinquished
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| 交出，让给( relinquish的过去式和过去分词 )； 放弃 | |
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abruptly
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| adv.突然地，出其不意地 | |
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undoubtedly
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| adv.确实地，无疑地 | |
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73
extricated
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| v.使摆脱困难，脱身( extricate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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74
frenzied
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| a.激怒的；疯狂的 | |
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75
meekly
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| adv.温顺地，逆来顺受地 | |
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76
degradation
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| n.降级；低落；退化；陵削；降解；衰变 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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78
mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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79
vista
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| n.远景，深景，展望，回想 | |
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80
velvet
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| n.丝绒，天鹅绒；adj.丝绒制的，柔软的 | |
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81
irresolute
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| adj.无决断的，优柔寡断的，踌躇不定的 | |
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82
rustic
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| adj.乡村的，有乡村特色的；n.乡下人，乡巴佬 | |
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83
royalty
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| n.皇家，皇族 | |
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84
majestic
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| adj.雄伟的，壮丽的，庄严的，威严的，崇高的 | |
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85
beeches
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| n.山毛榉( beech的名词复数 )；山毛榉木材 | |
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86
monarchs
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| 君主，帝王( monarch的名词复数 ) | |
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reign
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| n.统治时期，统治，支配，盛行；v.占优势 | |
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insolent
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| adj.傲慢的，无理的 | |
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intruding
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| v.侵入，侵扰，打扰( intrude的现在分词)；把…强加于 | |
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onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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impudently
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trampling
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| 踩( trample的现在分词 )； 践踏； 无视； 侵犯 | |
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supremacy
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| n.至上；至高权力 | |
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94
sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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dwindle
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| v.逐渐变小（或减少） | |
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hardier
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| 能吃苦耐劳的，坚强的( hardy的比较级 )； （植物等）耐寒的 | |
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foe
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| n.敌人，仇敌 | |
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revelling
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| v.作乐( revel的现在分词 )；狂欢；着迷；陶醉 | |
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exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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101
intoxicating
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| a. 醉人的,使人兴奋的 | |
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102
scramble
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| v.爬行，攀爬，杂乱蔓延，碎片，片段，废料 | |
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103
scattering
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| n.[物]散射；散乱，分散；在媒介质中的散播adj.散乱的；分散在不同范围的；广泛扩散的；（选票）数量分散的v.散射(scatter的ing形式)；散布；驱散 | |
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104
fugitive
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| adj.逃亡的，易逝的；n.逃犯，逃亡者 | |
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twilight
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| n.暮光，黄昏；暮年，晚期，衰落时期 | |
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106
foaming
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| adj.布满泡沫的；发泡 | |
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107
cascade
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| n.小瀑布，喷流；层叠；vi.成瀑布落下 | |
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108
kindling
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| n. 点火, 可燃物 动词kindle的现在分词形式 | |
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109
forestall
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| vt.抢在…之前采取行动；预先阻止 | |
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110
anticipation
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| n.预期，预料，期望 | |
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111
frankly
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| adv.坦白地，直率地；坦率地说 | |
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112
furry
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| adj.毛皮的；似毛皮的；毛皮制的 | |
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113
growl
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| v.（狗等）嗥叫，（炮等）轰鸣；n.嗥叫，轰鸣 | |
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114
extorted
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| v.敲诈( extort的过去式和过去分词 )；曲解 | |
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115
pegs
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| n.衣夹( peg的名词复数 )；挂钉；系帐篷的桩；弦钮v.用夹子或钉子固定( peg的第三人称单数 )；使固定在某水平 | |
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116
shutters
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| 百叶窗( shutter的名词复数 )； （照相机的）快门 | |
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117
authorized
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| a.委任的，许可的 | |
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118
apprised
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| v.告知，通知( apprise的过去式和过去分词 )；评价 | |
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119
concealment
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| n.隐藏, 掩盖，隐瞒 | |
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120
luxurious
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| adj.精美而昂贵的；豪华的 | |
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121
devoid
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| adj.全无的，缺乏的 | |
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122
superfluous
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| adj.过多的，过剩的，多余的 | |
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123
necessitate
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| v.使成为必要，需要 | |
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124
tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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125
slumber
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| n.睡眠，沉睡状态 | |
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126
renovated
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| 翻新，修复，整修( renovate的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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