This first taste of the delights of a Transylvanian mountain excursion had but stimulated1 our desire for more enjoyment2 of the same kind. After revelling3 so unrestrainedly in the pure mountain air, it was not possible to settle down at once to the monotony of every-day life. Some touch of the restless, roving spirit of the gypsies had come over me, and I began to understand that the life they lead might have a fascination4 nowhere else to be found. I positively5 hungered for more air, more sunshine, for deeper draughts6 of the pine wood fragrance7, further revelations of the mountain wonders. I could not afford to waste the very last days of this glorious summer weather cooped up within narrow streets; and as one or two of my late companions were of the same way of thinking, another expedition was speedily resolved upon.
It was, however, not without difficulty that we organized this second excursion, which could not possibly be attempted by two ladies without at least an equal number of gentlemen. Especially if there were going to be any more fainting-fits, a second protector was an imperative8 necessity; and who could tell (women being proverbially incalculable in their doings) whether we might not both select the self-same moment for swooning away? As yet only one of the stronger sex had been secured, and a second seemed to be nowhere forthcoming. As I before remarked, it is no easy matter to find a person with exactly the requisite11 qualifications for a mountaineering companion, and I am inclined to believe that Diogenes must have been contemplating12 some such ascent13 when he ran about the streets of Athens with a lantern. We had gone over the list of our dearest friends, and had rejected most of them, feeling convinced that we should get to detest14 them in the course of the first forty-eight hours. Of those few who remained some were unwell and others unwilling15; some had no time and others no boots; the cavalry16 officers rarely cared to walk at all, and infantry17 officers were of opinion that they had quite enough walking already in their usual routine of military{389} duty; and it is mournful to have to record that out of a population of about twenty-two thousand inhabitants, not another man could be found both willing and able to walk up a hill with a couple of ladies.
Our plan, therefore, seemed doomed18 to dire19 disappointment, when a bright thought struck me—the very brightest I ever had. Besides the population of 13,000 Germans, 3737 Roumanians, 2018 Magyars, 238 Jews and Armenian gypsies, and 443 infants, shown by the latest statistical20 return of the town, Hermanstadt could boast of something else—namely, one Englishman; and on this one solitary21 countryman all my hopes were accordingly fixed22.
The gentleman in question, who had made his appearance here some months previously23 along with his wife and child, had long been a source of deep and perplexing interest to the inhabitants of Hermanstadt. None of them knew his name, and no name was required, “Der Engl?nder” being sufficient to describe the fabulous24 stranger who had found his way to these remote regions. No one spoke25 of him in any other way, and his bills and parcels were sent to him invariably addressed to “Der Engl?nder.” His wife and his hat, his umbrella and his stockings, his boots and his baby, were as many sources of puzzling conjecture26 to these worthy27 people, who regarded him with all the deeper suspicion just because the life he led was so apparently28 harmless.
What had brought him to this out-of-the-way corner of Europe? was the question which troubled many a Saxon mind; and more than one was of opinion that he was a British spy sent by Mr. Gladstone for the express purpose of studying the military resources of the country and corrupting29 the population. No one would, I think, have been much surprised if some dark crime had been brought home to him, or if a supply of nitro-glycerine had been found concealed30 in the baby’s perambulator—the two most suspicious circumstances about him being, that he had occasionally been seen looking on at the military parade, and had an uncanny habit of taking long walks in the country. It was, however, precisely31 this last ominous32 symptom which had directed my thoughts to him on this occasion; and having formed a slight acquaintance with Mr. P—— and his wife, I felt sure that he would prove equal to the occasion.
A deep analysis of international character has led me to the conclusion that, in a contingency33 like the present, one Englishman may be fairly balanced against a trifling34 majority of some twenty thousand{390} other mixed races; so I put forward my candidate, expressing a conviction that my countryman would in no way fall short of the national standard which demands that every Englishman shall do his duty.
“Very well,” said my friend, half reluctantly, “let us ask ‘Der Engl?nder,’ if you really think it safe.” So after I had pledged my honor that the country’s security would in nowise be imperilled, I secured the valuable and agreeable companionship of Mr. P——, and we set out once more, a small party of four people, with the requisite number of guides and baggage-horses.
This second expedition was to be conducted on a somewhat different principle from the first; for, instead of taking up our quarters at one given point, we proposed wandering over the mountains in true gypsy fashion, sleeping wherever we happened to find shelter in shepherds’ huts or foresters’ lodges35, or, in the absence of these, camping under a sail-cloth tent we carried with us. It had been planned that we were to remain out fully37 ten days, returning by a different route, and making a short excursion into Roumania.
We drove to the foot of the hills, and then commenced our ascent from a Roumanian village, where the white-veiled women plying38 the distaff in front of their doors sent us courteous39 salutations as we passed. The weather was radiantly beautiful, the atmosphere of a faultless transparency, without a breath of air to hasten the falling leaves, or a cloud to mar10 the effect of the deep-blue vault40. There were still wild flowers enough—campanulas, gentians, and wild carnations—growing on the steep grassy41 slopes, to make us fancy ourselves in midsummer; and the gaudy42 insects disporting43 themselves thereon—butterflies blue and purple, gold and scarlet44 grasshoppers45, and shining bronze beetles—were as many brilliant impostors luring46 us on to the belief that winter was still far away.
But the furry47 caterpillars48 scuttling49 across our path at headlong speed, in their haste to wrap themselves up in their warm winter cocoons50, knew better; and so did the ring-doves and martens, which, with other tribes of migrating birds, were all winging it swiftly towards the south, making dark streaks51 in the blue sky overhead.
For our part, we felt it almost too hot to walk uphill in the sun, and were thankful when, after an hour’s ascent, we gained the shade of the dense52 pine forests which, without admixture of beech53, clothe all this part of the country.
There is no sense of monotony in these beautiful pine woods,{391} though one may walk in them for many days without reaching the end of the forest, for no two parts of it are alike, and surprises await us at every turn. Thus one region is distinguished54 by a profusion55 of coral ornaments56, the huge red toadstools, sprouting57 everywhere on the emerald moss58, looking like monster sugar-plums which have fallen from these gigantic Christmas-trees; then suddenly a new transformation59 takes place, and we are walking in a mermaid’s grove60 far beneath the sea—for are not the trees here adorned61 with tremulous hangings of palest green sea-weed? Yet this is no other than a lichen62, the Usnea barbata, or bearded moss, also called Rübezahl’s hair, which with such strange perversity63 will sometimes seize upon a whole forest district, thus fantastically decking it out in this long, wavy64 fluff, hanging from each twig65 and branch in fringes and bunches like a profusion of gray-green icicles; while elsewhere, under apparently the self-same conditions of soil and vegetation, we may seek for it in vain.
Farther on we come upon a scene still more weird66 and suggestive, as we seem to have stepped unawares into a land of ghosts. Hundreds of dead fir-trees, bleached67 and dry, are standing68 here upright and stark69. Untouched by the storm, and unbroken by old age, with every branch and twig intact, they have been stricken to the heart’s core by a treacherous70 enemy, the Borkenk?fer (Bostrichus typographus), a small but baneful71 insect, which for years past has been plying its deadly craft, and, vampire-like, sapping their life away. It is a relief to quit this death-like region, and return to the exuberant72 life expressed in every line of those gorgeous trees, growing scarce fifty paces ahead of their stricken brethren, whose lower branches, weighed down beneath the burden of their own magnificence, have sunk to the ground, where they lie voluptuously73 embedded74 in the rank luxuriance of the moss-woven grass. Yet here, too, the deadly insect will come, in scarce half a dozen years, to turn those emerald giants into staring white ghosts. Day by day it is creeping nearer, and though they know it not, those deluded75 trees, their days are already counted. Let us pass on; life is not blither than death after all!
Our first halt was made at La Dus, a small group of huts tenanted in summer by Hungarian gendarmes76, there stationed for the purpose of keeping a lookout77 on smugglers and possible military deserters, who may hope to evade78 service by concealing79 themselves among the shepherds, or going over the frontier into Roumania. The immediate{392} surroundings of this little establishment are somewhat bleak80 and desolate81, the forest having been of late much cleared out at this spot. A tiny cemetery82 behind the houses seems to act the part of pleasure-ground as well; for right in its centre, separating the seven or eight graves into two rows, is a primitive83 skittle-ground—which curious arrangement can only be explained by the supposition that here the skittles had the right of priority, the dead men being but dissipated interlopers, who, having loved to play at skittles during their lifetime, desired to be united to them even in death. The remains84 of a camp-fire I observed in one corner was another sign of the peculiar85 way the defunct86 are treated in this obscure church-yard, the ashes on closer investigation87 showing the charred88 wrecks89 of some of the crosses and railings missing from more than one grave.
In a wooden chalet reserved for the occasional visits of inspection90 of a head forester we obtained night-quarters, proceeding91 next morning on our way, which again took us through similar pine woods, reaching this time a comfortable shooting-lodge36 lying deep in the forest of Bistra, where we were made welcome by a hospitable92 Roumanian game-keeper and four or five remarkably93 amiable94 pointers, which threatened to stifle95 us with their affectionate demonstrations96.
The weather had now begun to change, and a small drizzling97 rain had already surprised us on the way. Reluctantly we acknowledged that the caterpillars were by no means so devoid98 of sense as had appeared at first sight; and those migrating winged families, which had seemed so unreasonably99 anxious to start for Italy, were now slowly rising in our estimation, and as we were very comfortably installed at the game-keeper’s lodge, we resolved to stay there two nights in order to give the weather time to improve before venturing on to higher ground.
This intervening day of rest was spent pleasantly enough in walking about and sketching100, despite occasional showers of rain; while the gentlemen proceeded to shoot haselhühner in the forest. For the benefit of those unacquainted with these delicious little birds, I must here mention that they are about the size of a partridge, but of far superior flavor. They are mostly to be found in pine forests, where they feed on the delicate young pine-shoots, along with juniper-berries, sloes, and heather-nibs, which gives to them (in a fainter degree) something of the sharp aromatic101 taste of the grouse102.
Close to the game-keeper’s lodge there was a dashing mountain torrent103 of considerable volume, and this point had been selected for the construction of a klause (literally cloister)—or to put it more clearly, a monster dam—across the torrent-bed, with movable sluices104. By means of the body of water obtained in this way, the wood of the forest is conveyed to the lower world. The river-banks are here enlarged till they form a small lake, and the dam, built up securely of massive bowlder-stones, is, for greater preservation105 against wind and weather, walled and roofed in with wooden planking, which gives to it the appearance of a roomy habitation. In connection with this lake are numerous wooden slides or troughs, which, slanting106 down from the adjacent hills, deposit whole trunks at the water’s edge, there to be hewn up into convenient logs and thrown into the water. When a sufficient quantity of wood has been thus collected the sluices are opened, and with thunder-like noise the cataract107 breaks forth9, easily sweeping108 its wooden burden along.
Even greater loads sometimes reach the lower world by this watery109 road, and occasionally twenty to twenty-five stems, roughly shaped into beams for building purposes, are fastened together so as to form a sort of raft, firmly connected at one end by cross-beams and wooden bands, but left loose at the opposite side to admit of the beams separating fan-like, according to the exigencies110 of the encountered obstacles, as they are whirled along. Two men furnished with lengthy111 poles act as steersmen, and it requires no little skill to guide this unwieldy craft successfully through the labyrinth112 of rocks and whirlpools which beset113 the river’s bed. The perils114 of such a cruise are considerable, and used to be greater still before some of the worst rocks were blasted out of the way. Sometimes the whole craft goes to pieces, dashed against the bowlders, or else a fallen tree-stem across the river may crush the sailors as they are swept beneath. From this fate the navigators may sometimes barely escape by throwing themselves prostrate115 on the raft, or by leaping over the barrier at the critical moment; or else, when the obstacle is not otherwise to be evaded116, and seems too formidable to surmount117, they find it necessary to make voluntary shipwreck118 by steering119 on to the nearest rock. The thunder-like noise of the cataract renders speech unavailing, so it is only by signs that the men can communicate with each other.
This particular klause is not in use at present, as there are similar ones in neighboring valleys; so the little colony of log-huts built for the accommodation of workmen is standing empty, and single huts can be rented at a moderate price by any one who wishes to enjoy some weeks of a delightful120 solitude121 in the midst of fragrant122 pine forests.
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1
stimulated
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| a.刺激的 | |
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2
enjoyment
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| n.乐趣；享有；享用 | |
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revelling
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| v.作乐( revel的现在分词 )；狂欢；着迷；陶醉 | |
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fascination
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| n.令人着迷的事物，魅力，迷恋 | |
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positively
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| adv.明确地，断然，坚决地；实在，确实 | |
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draughts
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| n. <英>国际跳棋 | |
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fragrance
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| n.芬芳，香味，香气 | |
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imperative
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| n.命令，需要；规则；祈使语气；adj.强制的；紧急的 | |
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forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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mar
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| vt.破坏，毁坏，弄糟 | |
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requisite
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| adj.需要的，必不可少的；n.必需品 | |
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contemplating
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| 深思，细想，仔细考虑( contemplate的现在分词 )； 注视，凝视； 考虑接受（发生某事的可能性）； 深思熟虑，沉思，苦思冥想 | |
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ascent
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| n.(声望或地位)提高；上升，升高；登高 | |
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detest
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| vt.痛恨，憎恶 | |
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unwilling
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| adj.不情愿的 | |
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cavalry
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| n.骑兵；轻装甲部队 | |
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infantry
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| n.[总称]步兵(部队) | |
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doomed
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| 命定的 | |
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dire
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| adj.可怕的，悲惨的，阴惨的，极端的 | |
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20
statistical
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| adj.统计的，统计学的 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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fabulous
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| adj.极好的；极为巨大的；寓言中的，传说中的 | |
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spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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corrupting
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| （使）败坏( corrupt的现在分词 )； （使）腐化； 引起（计算机文件等的）错误； 破坏 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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precisely
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| adv.恰好，正好，精确地，细致地 | |
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ominous
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| adj.不祥的，不吉的，预兆的，预示的 | |
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contingency
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| n.意外事件，可能性 | |
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trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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lodges
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| v.存放( lodge的第三人称单数 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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lodge
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| v.临时住宿，寄宿，寄存，容纳；n.传达室，小旅馆 | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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plying
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| v.使用（工具）( ply的现在分词 )；经常供应（食物、饮料）；固定往来；经营生意 | |
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courteous
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| adj.彬彬有礼的，客气的 | |
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vault
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| n.拱形圆顶，地窖，地下室 | |
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grassy
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| adj.盖满草的；长满草的 | |
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gaudy
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| adj.华而不实的；俗丽的 | |
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disporting
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| v.嬉戏，玩乐，自娱( disport的现在分词 ) | |
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scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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45
grasshoppers
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| n.蚱蜢( grasshopper的名词复数 )；蝗虫；蚂蚱；（孩子）矮小的 | |
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46
luring
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| 吸引，引诱（lure的现在分词形式） | |
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47
furry
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| adj.毛皮的；似毛皮的；毛皮制的 | |
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48
caterpillars
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| n.毛虫( caterpillar的名词复数 )；履带 | |
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49
scuttling
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| n.船底穿孔，打开通海阀（沉船用）v.使船沉没( scuttle的现在分词 )；快跑，急走 | |
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50
cocoons
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| n.茧，蚕茧( cocoon的名词复数 )v.茧，蚕茧( cocoon的第三人称单数 ) | |
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51
streaks
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| n.（与周围有所不同的）条纹( streak的名词复数 )；（通常指不好的）特征（倾向）；（不断经历成功或失败的）一段时期v.快速移动( streak的第三人称单数 )；使布满条纹 | |
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52
dense
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| a.密集的，稠密的，浓密的；密度大的 | |
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53
beech
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| n.山毛榉；adj.山毛榉的 | |
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54
distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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55
profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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56
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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57
sprouting
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| v.发芽( sprout的现在分词 )；抽芽；出现；（使）涌现出 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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59
transformation
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| n.变化；改造；转变 | |
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60
grove
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| n.林子，小树林，园林 | |
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61
adorned
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| [计]被修饰的 | |
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lichen
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| n.地衣, 青苔 | |
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perversity
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| n.任性；刚愎自用 | |
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64
wavy
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| adj.有波浪的，多浪的，波浪状的，波动的，不稳定的 | |
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twig
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| n.小树枝，嫩枝；v.理解 | |
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weird
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| adj.古怪的，离奇的；怪诞的，神秘而可怕的 | |
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bleached
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| 漂白的，晒白的，颜色变浅的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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stark
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| adj.荒凉的；严酷的；完全的；adv.完全地 | |
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70
treacherous
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| adj.不可靠的，有暗藏的危险的；adj.背叛的，背信弃义的 | |
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71
baneful
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| adj.有害的 | |
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72
exuberant
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| adj.充满活力的；（植物）繁茂的 | |
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voluptuously
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| adv.风骚地，体态丰满地 | |
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embedded
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| a.扎牢的 | |
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deluded
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| v.欺骗，哄骗( delude的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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gendarmes
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| n.宪兵，警官( gendarme的名词复数 ) | |
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lookout
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| n.注意，前途，瞭望台 | |
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evade
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| vt.逃避，回避；避开，躲避 | |
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concealing
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| v.隐藏，隐瞒，遮住( conceal的现在分词 ) | |
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bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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desolate
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| adj.荒凉的，荒芜的；孤独的，凄凉的；v.使荒芜，使孤寂 | |
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cemetery
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| n.坟墓，墓地，坟场 | |
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primitive
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| adj.原始的；简单的；n.原(始)人，原始事物 | |
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remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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defunct
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| adj.死亡的；已倒闭的 | |
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investigation
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| n.调查，调查研究 | |
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charred
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| v.把…烧成炭( char的过去式)；烧焦 | |
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wrecks
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| n.沉船( wreck的名词复数 )；（事故中）遭严重毁坏的汽车（或飞机等）；（身体或精神上）受到严重损伤的人；状况非常糟糕的车辆（或建筑物等）v.毁坏[毁灭]某物( wreck的第三人称单数 )；使（船舶）失事，使遇难，使下沉 | |
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inspection
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| n.检查，审查，检阅 | |
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proceeding
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| n.行动，进行，(pl.)会议录，学报 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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amiable
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| adj.和蔼可亲的，友善的，亲切的 | |
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stifle
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| vt.使窒息；闷死；扼杀；抑止，阻止 | |
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demonstrations
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| 证明( demonstration的名词复数 )； 表明； 表达； 游行示威 | |
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drizzling
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| 下蒙蒙细雨，下毛毛雨( drizzle的现在分词 ) | |
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devoid
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| adj.全无的，缺乏的 | |
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unreasonably
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| adv. 不合理地 | |
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100
sketching
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| n.草图 | |
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aromatic
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| adj.芳香的，有香味的 | |
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102
grouse
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| n.松鸡；v.牢骚，诉苦 | |
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103
torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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sluices
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| n.水闸( sluice的名词复数 )；（用水闸控制的）水；有闸人工水道；漂洗处v.冲洗( sluice的第三人称单数 )；（指水）喷涌而出；漂净；给…安装水闸 | |
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preservation
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| n.保护，维护，保存，保留，保持 | |
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slanting
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| 倾斜的，歪斜的 | |
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cataract
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| n.大瀑布，奔流，洪水，白内障 | |
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sweeping
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| adj.范围广大的，一扫无遗的 | |
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watery
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| adj.有水的，水汪汪的；湿的，湿润的 | |
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exigencies
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| n.急切需要 | |
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lengthy
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| adj.漫长的，冗长的 | |
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labyrinth
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| n.迷宫；难解的事物；迷路 | |
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beset
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| v.镶嵌；困扰，包围 | |
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perils
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| 极大危险( peril的名词复数 )； 危险的事（或环境） | |
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prostrate
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| v.拜倒，平卧，衰竭；adj.拜倒的，平卧的，衰竭的 | |
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evaded
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| 逃避( evade的过去式和过去分词 )； 避开； 回避； 想不出 | |
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117
surmount
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| vt.克服；置于…顶上 | |
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118
shipwreck
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| n.船舶失事，海难 | |
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119
steering
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| n.操舵装置 | |
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120
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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121
solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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122
fragrant
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| adj.芬香的，馥郁的，愉快的 | |
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