A thorough dose of nature enjoyed in this way acts like a regenerating7 medicine on a mind and body wearied and weakened by a long strain of conventionalities. It is refreshing8 merely to look round on a beautiful scene as yet untainted by the so-called civilizing9 breath of man, who, too often attempting to paint the lily, invariably vulgarizes when he seeks to improve the work of the Creator. What unmixed delight to see here everything unspoiled and unadulterated, each tree and flower living out its natural life, or falling into beautiful decay, without having been turned aside from its original vocation10, or distorted to an unnatural11 use to minister to some imaginary want of sensual, cruel, greedy, rapacious12 man; to find one little spot where nature yet reigns13 supreme14; to be able to gaze around and say that those splendid fir-stems will not be cut up in a noisy saw-mill, nor yet defiled15 by vulgar paint; those late scarlet16 strawberries hanging in coral fringes from pearl-gray rocks will not be sold at so much a pint17 and{381} cooked into sickly jams; those prickly fir-cones will not be abstracted from their rightful owners, the red-coated squirrels, to adorn18 the tasteless veranda19 of some popular beer-house; the swelling20 outlines of those glorious blue gentians will be flattened21 in no improved herbarium, nor those gorgeous butterflies invited to lay down their young lives to further the interests of science; those brown leaping trout22 will, thank Heaven, never, never figure on an illuminated23 menu card as truites à la Chambord, to flatter the palate of some dissipated sybarite! The pure light of the north star alone will point out my direction, and neither Kant nor Hegel will rise from his grave to torment24 me here.
THE PINE VALLEY.
It is wonderful how soon one gets accustomed to roughing it, and doing without the comforts and luxuries of daily life, and it is delightful to discover that civilization is only skin-deep after all. On the second morning it seemed no hardship to perform our toilet at a mountain spring shrouded25 in a pine-tree boudoir; empty bottles were very worthy26 substitutes for silver candlesticks; and for brushing our{382} dress and cleansing27 our boots, a wild Wallachian peasant quite as useful as a trained femme de chambre.
Dress and fashion, uniforms and coffee-houses, the wearisome chit-chat of a little country town, as well as the intricacies of European politics, had all passed out of our lives as though they had never existed, leaving no regret, scarcely even a memory. It seemed hardly possible to believe that such useless and unnatural things as false hair, diamond ear-rings, military parades, cream-laid note-paper, calling-cards, sugar-tongs, intrigue28, envy, and ambition existed somewhere or other about the world. Were there really other forms of music extant than the lullaby of the water-fall, and the wild pibroch of the wind among the fir-stems? other sorts of perfumes than the pine wood fragrance29 and the breath of wild thyme?
While we were thus revelling30 in the pure ozone31 above, two emperors were meeting in some dull corner of the dingy32 earth below,[83] and all Europe was looking on and holding its breath, in order to catch some echo of the royal syllables33 interchanged.
For our part, we completely skipped this page of European history, and felt none the worse of it. Everything changes proportion up here, and a real eagle becomes of far more absorbing interest than a double-headed one. We were virtually as isolated34 as though cast on a desert island in the Pacific; and but for one messenger despatched to assure us of the welfare of our respective families, we had no communication with the world we had left.
Here we had a hundred other sources of interest of more absorbing and healthier kind than the so-called pleasures we had left below. First there was the water-fall, a never-failing element of beauty and interest. It was delightful to sketch2 it, sitting on a moss5-grown stone at the edge of the torrent35; it was yet more delightful to clamber up to its base, and clinging on to a rock, receive the breath of its spray full on our face, and enjoy at close quarters the musical thunder of its voice. Not far from this was the place where, three years previously36, the great avalanche37 had swept over the valley, felling prostrate38 every tree which came in its passage. All across one side of the glen, and half-way up the opposite hill, can still be traced the ravaging39 march of the destroying forces; for here the woodman never comes with his{383} axe40, and each tree still lies prostrate where it was stricken down, like giant ninepins overthrown41; and here they will lie undisturbed till they rot away and turn to soft red dust, mute vouchers42 of the terrible power of unchained nature. One felt inclined to envy the bears and eagles for this glorious sight, of which they alone can have been the fortunate spectators.
Another point of interest indicated by our guides was the bridge of fir-stems over a steep ravine, where years ago a terrified flock of sheep, pursued by a bear in broad daylight, had leaped down over the precipitous edge, upwards43 of three hundred breaking their legs in their frenzied44 attempts to escape.
The shepherds who lived above in the stony45 valley came frequently down to our shelter-hut, and we used to find them comfortably ensconced at our camp-fire, in deep conversation with the guides. In their lonely existence it must have been a pleasant experience to have neighbors at all within reach, and our hospitable46 camp-fire was doubtless as good as a fashionable club to their simple minds. They brought us of their sheep’s milk and cheese. The latter, called here brindza, was very palatable47, and the milk much thicker and richer than cow’s milk, but of a peculiar48 taste which I failed to appreciate.
There was a shepherdess, too, belonging to the establishment; but let no one, misled by the appellation49, instinctively50 conjure51 up visions of delicate pastel-paintings or coquettish porcelain52 figurines, for anything more utterly53 at variance54 with the associations suggested by the names of Watteau and Vieux Saxe, than the uncouth55, swarthy, one-eyed damsel who inhabited the bergerie, cannot well be imagined. The male shepherds were four in number—two of them calling for no special description; the third, a boy of about fourteen, with large, senseless eyes and a fixed56, idiotic57 stare, looked no more than semi-human. The most distinguished58 member of the party, and, as we ladies unanimously agreed, decidedly the flower of the flock, was a good-looking young man of some twenty years, with straight-cut, regular features, a high brown fur cap, and a wooden flute59 on which he played in a queer, monotonous60 fashion, resembling the droning tones of a bagpipe61. He had come from Roumania, he told us, and had been for a time tending flocks in Turkey, where he had picked up something of the language. It was a curious country, he observed, and the people there had curious habits—such, for instance, as that of keeping several wives; the richer a man was, the more wives he kept.{384} Our young shepherd shrugged62 his shoulders as he made this remark in a supercilious63 manner, evidently of opinion that women were an evil which should not be unnecessarily multiplied; and certainly, judging from the solitary64 specimen65 of female beauty which the stony valley contained, no man could feel tempted66 to embark67 in a very extensive harem.
We afterwards ascertained68 that the interesting shepherd with the fur cap and wooden flute had committed a murder over in Roumania, and been obliged to fly the country on that account. This disclosure rendered us somewhat more reserved in our intercourse69 with our romantic neighbor, and though we could not exactly put a stop to his visits, we avoided over-intimacy, and always felt more at ease in his society when there was a gun or revolver within handy reach.
Our Wallachian guides proved thoroughly70 satisfactory in every way—active, obliging, and full of inventive resources. They were very particular about keeping their fast-days as prescribed by the Greek Church, and would refuse all offers of food at such times. When not fasting they were easily made happy by any scraps71 of cheese or bacon left over from our meals, or by a glassful of spirits of wine judiciously72 adulterated with water. On one occasion a parcel containing a dozen hard-boiled eggs, grown stale (to put it mildly) from having been overlooked, was received with positive rapture73 by one of these unsophisticated beings, who devoured74 them every one with a heartfelt relish75 not to be mistaken.
Ham, sausages, and bread and cheese, formed the staple76 of our nourishment77 in this as in other Transylvanian mountain excursions—for after the first day, of course, no fresh meat could be procured79. Also, the Hungarian paprica speck—viz., raw bacon prepared with red pepper—is useful on these occasions, as it gives much nourishment in a very small compass. I never myself succeeded in reaching the point demanded by Hungarian enthusiasm for this favorite national food; so that all I can conscientiously80 say for it is that, given the circumstances of a keen appetite, bracing81 mountain air, and no other available nourishment, it is quite eatable, and by a little stretch of indulgence might almost be called palatable. The Magyars, however, pronounce this bacon to be of such superlatively exquisite82 flavor as only to be fit for the gods on a Sunday! So I suppose it can only be by reason of some peculiarly ungodlike quality in my nature that I am unable to appreciate this Elysian dish as it deserves.
The Roumanians have, like the Poles, a certain inbred sense of courtesy totally wanting in their Saxon neighbors; it shows itself in many trifling83 acts—in the manner they rise and uncover in the presence of a superior, and the way they offer their assistance over the obstacles of the path. One day that I had hurt my foot, and was much distressed84 at being unable to join a longer walk, I found in the evening a large nosegay of ripe bilberries, surrounded by red autumn leaves, lying at the foot of my sleeping-place—a delicate attention on the part of our head guide, who wished thereby85 to console me for the pleasure I had lost.
The peasants were always pitying us for the disadvantages of our chaussure: how could we be so foolish as to submit to the torture and inconvenience of shoes and stockings, instead of adopting the comfortable opintschen they themselves wore? And they almost succeeded in persuading me to make the attempt on some future occasion, although I feel doubtful as to how far a foot corrupted86 by civilization could be induced to adapt itself to this unwonted covering.
We celebrated87 our last evening in the pine valley by ordering an extra large bonfire to be made. Accordingly, three good-sized fir-trees were felled, and bound together to form a sort of pyramid. A glorious sight when the flames had scaled the heights, turning each little twig88 into a golden brand, and drawing a profusion89 of rockets from every branch—far more beautiful than any fireworks I had seen.
One of our guides, called Nicola?a—the tallest and wildest-looking of the group—especially distinguished himself on this occasion. He had evidently something of the salamander in his constitution, for he seemed to be absolutely impervious90 to heat, and to feel, in fact, quite as comfortable inside the fire as out of it. By common consent he was generally assigned the part of cat’s-paw, to him being delegated the office of taking a boiling pot off the fire or picking the roasted potatoes from out the red-hot embers. Standing91 as he now was, almost in the centre of the glowing pile, supporting the burning fir-trees with his sinewy92 arms, while a perfect shower of sparks rained thickly down all over his ragged93 shirt and bare, tawny94 chest, it required no stretch of imagination to take him for a figure designed by Doré and stepped straight out of Dante’s Inferno95.
Our last morning came, and with heartfelt regret we prepared to leave the lovely valley where we had spent such a truly delicious{386} week. An additional pack-horse having been sent for from the village below, we were surprised to see the animal in question make its appearance led by the Roumanian cure of the parish, who, having heard that a horse was required, had bethought himself of earning an honest penny by hiring out his beast and enacting96 the part of driver. Anywhere else it would be a strange anomaly to see a clergyman putting himself on a level with a common peasant, attired97 in coarse linen98 shirt and meekly99 carrying our bundles; but here this is of every-day occurrence. The Roumanian peasant, however rigorously he may adhere to the forms of his Church, has, as I said before, no inordinate100 respect for the person of his clergyman, whose infallibility is only considered to last so long as he is standing before the altar; once outside the church walls he becomes an ordinary man to his congregation, and not necessarily a particularly respected or respectable individual. This particular popa was, as it appeared, not only accustomed to serve as driver, but likewise as beast of burden himself—as he genially101 volunteered to carry all the mosses and ferns we collected on the way. I am ashamed to say that we basely accepted his services, and loaded him unmercifully with the spoils of the forest, thus unceremoniously apostrophizing him: “Here, popa, another hart’s-tongue;” or, “Take this ivy102 trail, will you?” till he was wellnigh smothered103 in sylvan78 treasures.
Our path to the foot of the mountains, where our carriages were to await us, was a walk of about three hours; but soon after starting, our sacerdotal porter having volunteered to show us a short cut, which should take us down in two-thirds of that time, we gladly grasped at this proposition and at the prospect104 of seeing a new part of the forest; and our other guides being on ahead with the horses, we blindly intrusted ourselves to the guidance of the holy man, who forthwith began to lead us through the very thickest forest-mazes, over rocks and torrents105, through bogs106 and brier, up hill and down dale, till our clothes were torn, our hands were bleeding, and our tempers were soured. “The way must be very short, indeed, if it is so bad,” was the reflection which at first kept up our spirits; but we had yet to learn that brevity and badness do not always go hand in hand, and that an execrable path may be lengthy107 as well. Like jaded108 warriors109 overcome by the fatigue110 of an excessive march, we now disburdened ourselves of our rich spoils, having no further thought but to find our way from out this bewildering labyrinth111 of smooth beech-stems. Clumps112 of exquisite{387} maidenhair ferns, but now so tenderly dug up, were callously113 cast aside, and the much-prized layers of velvety114 moss were brutally115 left to perish. All noble instincts seemed dead within us, our weary limbs and empty stomachs being all we cared for. The forest had suddenly grown hideous116, and we wondered at ourselves for ever having thought it beautiful. The priest was a ruffian luring117 us on to our destruction. Utterly losing sight of his sacerdotal character, we abused him in harsh and vigorous language, which he meekly bore—I must say that much for him. Perhaps he had heard similar language before, and was accustomed to it.
Whether the popa had lost his way and did not wish to acknowledge it, or whether, as I rather suspect, he had never been in the forest before, remains118 an unsolved mystery; the result was, however, that after nearly seven hours of remarkably119 hard walking we were still lost in the depths of the forest, and apparently120 no nearer our destination than when we had set out.
At this juncture121 one of the ladies lay down on the ground, declaring herself incapable122 of going a step farther. She was nearly fainting with fatigue and hunger, for all our provisions had been sent on with the horses. The predicament was a most unpleasant one; for although the popa swore for at least the twentieth time that we should arrive in less than half an hour, we had been too cruelly deceived, and our confidence in him was gone. Half an hour might just as well mean three or four hours farther; and even if he spoke123 the truth our unfortunate companion was far too much exhausted124 to proceed.
After a brief consultation125 we determined126 that, leaving two gentlemen in charge of the invalid127, some of us should go on with the miscreant128 priest as guide, sending back a horse and some restoratives to the spot. This plan proved successful; for after about three-quarters of an hour more of clambering and climbing, we reached the forest edge, and found our guides waiting for us and much perplexed129 at our nonappearance.
“The devil take the popa!” was their hearty130 and unanimous exclamation131 when we had related our adventure; “who could be fool enough to follow the priest? Did we not know that it was bad-luck even to meet a popa?” they asked us pityingly; and certainly, under the circumstances, we felt inclined for once to attach some weight to popular superstition132, and inwardly to resolve never again to trust ourselves to the guidance of a Roumanian popa.
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1
delightful
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| adj.令人高兴的，使人快乐的 | |
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sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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4
mosses
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| n. 藓类, 苔藓植物 名词moss的复数形式 | |
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moss
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| n.苔，藓，地衣 | |
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abounded
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| v.大量存在，充满，富于( abound的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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regenerating
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| v.新生，再生( regenerate的现在分词 )；正反馈 | |
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refreshing
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| adj.使精神振作的，使人清爽的，使人喜欢的 | |
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9
civilizing
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| v.使文明，使开化( civilize的现在分词 ) | |
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vocation
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| n.职业，行业 | |
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unnatural
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| adj.不自然的；反常的 | |
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rapacious
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| adj.贪婪的，强夺的 | |
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reigns
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| n.君主的统治( reign的名词复数 )；君主统治时期；任期；当政期 | |
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supreme
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| adj.极度的，最重要的；至高的，最高的 | |
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defiled
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| v.玷污( defile的过去式和过去分词 )；污染；弄脏；纵列行进 | |
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scarlet
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| n.深红色，绯红色，红衣；adj.绯红色的 | |
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pint
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| n.品脱 | |
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adorn
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| vt.使美化，装饰 | |
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veranda
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| n.走廊；阳台 | |
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swelling
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| n.肿胀 | |
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flattened
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| [医]（水）平扁的，弄平的 | |
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trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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illuminated
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| adj.被照明的；受启迪的 | |
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torment
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| n.折磨；令人痛苦的东西(人)；vt.折磨；纠缠 | |
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shrouded
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| v.隐瞒( shroud的过去式和过去分词 )；保密 | |
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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cleansing
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| n. 净化(垃圾) adj. 清洁用的 动词cleanse的现在分词 | |
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intrigue
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| vt.激起兴趣，迷住；vi.耍阴谋；n.阴谋，密谋 | |
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fragrance
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| n.芬芳，香味，香气 | |
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revelling
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| v.作乐( revel的现在分词 )；狂欢；着迷；陶醉 | |
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ozone
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| n.臭氧，新鲜空气 | |
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dingy
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| adj.昏暗的，肮脏的 | |
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syllables
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| n.音节( syllable的名词复数 ) | |
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isolated
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| adj.与世隔绝的 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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previously
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| adv.以前，先前（地） | |
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avalanche
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| n.雪崩，大量涌来 | |
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prostrate
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| v.拜倒，平卧，衰竭；adj.拜倒的，平卧的，衰竭的 | |
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ravaging
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| 毁坏( ravage的现在分词 )； 蹂躏； 劫掠； 抢劫 | |
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axe
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| n.斧子；v.用斧头砍，削减 | |
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overthrown
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| adj. 打翻的，推倒的，倾覆的 动词overthrow的过去分词 | |
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vouchers
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| n.凭证( voucher的名词复数 )；证人；证件；收据 | |
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upwards
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| adv.向上，在更高处...以上 | |
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frenzied
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| a.激怒的；疯狂的 | |
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stony
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| adj.石头的，多石头的，冷酷的，无情的 | |
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hospitable
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| adj.好客的；宽容的；有利的，适宜的 | |
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palatable
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| adj.可口的，美味的；惬意的 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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appellation
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| n.名称，称呼 | |
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instinctively
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| adv.本能地 | |
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conjure
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| v.恳求，祈求；变魔术，变戏法 | |
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52
porcelain
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| n.瓷；adj.瓷的，瓷制的 | |
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utterly
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| adv.完全地，绝对地 | |
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variance
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| n.矛盾，不同 | |
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uncouth
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| adj.无教养的，粗鲁的 | |
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fixed
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| adj.固定的，不变的，准备好的；(计算机)固定的 | |
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idiotic
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| adj.白痴的 | |
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distinguished
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| adj.卓越的，杰出的，著名的 | |
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flute
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| n.长笛；v.吹笛 | |
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monotonous
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| adj.单调的，一成不变的，使人厌倦的 | |
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61
bagpipe
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| n.风笛 | |
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shrugged
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| vt.耸肩（shrug的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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supercilious
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| adj.目中无人的，高傲的；adv.高傲地；n.高傲 | |
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solitary
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| adj.孤独的，独立的，荒凉的；n.隐士 | |
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specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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embark
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| vi.乘船，着手，从事，上飞机 | |
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ascertained
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| v.弄清，确定，查明( ascertain的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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69
intercourse
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| n.性交；交流，交往，交际 | |
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thoroughly
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| adv.完全地，彻底地，十足地 | |
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71
scraps
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| 油渣 | |
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judiciously
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| adv.明断地，明智而审慎地 | |
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73
rapture
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| n.狂喜；全神贯注；着迷；v.使狂喜 | |
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devoured
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| 吞没( devour的过去式和过去分词 )； 耗尽； 津津有味地看； 狼吞虎咽地吃光 | |
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75
relish
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| n.滋味，享受，爱好，调味品；vt.加调味料，享受，品味；vi.有滋味 | |
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76
staple
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| n.主要产物，常用品，主要要素，原料，订书钉，钩环；adj.主要的，重要的；vt.分类 | |
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nourishment
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| n.食物，营养品；营养情况 | |
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sylvan
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| adj.森林的 | |
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procured
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| v.（努力）取得， （设法）获得( procure的过去式和过去分词 )；拉皮条 | |
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conscientiously
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| adv.凭良心地；认真地，负责尽职地；老老实实 | |
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bracing
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| adj.令人振奋的 | |
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82
exquisite
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| adj.精美的；敏锐的；剧烈的，感觉强烈的 | |
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83
trifling
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| adj.微不足道的；没什么价值的 | |
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84
distressed
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| 痛苦的 | |
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85
thereby
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| adv.因此，从而 | |
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86
corrupted
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| （使）败坏( corrupt的过去式和过去分词 )； （使）腐化； 引起（计算机文件等的）错误； 破坏 | |
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celebrated
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| adj.有名的，声誉卓著的 | |
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88
twig
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| n.小树枝，嫩枝；v.理解 | |
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profusion
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| n.挥霍；丰富 | |
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impervious
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| adj.不能渗透的，不能穿过的，不易伤害的 | |
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standing
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| n.持续，地位；adj.永久的，不动的，直立的，不流动的 | |
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sinewy
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| adj.多腱的，强壮有力的 | |
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ragged
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| adj.衣衫褴褛的，粗糙的，刺耳的 | |
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tawny
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| adj.茶色的，黄褐色的；n.黄褐色 | |
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inferno
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| n.火海；地狱般的场所 | |
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enacting
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| 制定（法律），通过（法案）( enact的现在分词 ) | |
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attired
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| adj.穿着整齐的v.使穿上衣服，使穿上盛装( attire的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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98
linen
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| n.亚麻布，亚麻线，亚麻制品；adj.亚麻布制的，亚麻的 | |
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meekly
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| adv.温顺地，逆来顺受地 | |
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100
inordinate
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| adj.无节制的；过度的 | |
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101
genially
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| adv.亲切地，和蔼地；快活地 | |
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ivy
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| n.常青藤，常春藤 | |
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103
smothered
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| （使）窒息， （使）透不过气( smother的过去式和过去分词 )； 覆盖； 忍住； 抑制 | |
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104
prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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105
torrents
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| n.倾注；奔流( torrent的名词复数 )；急流；爆发；连续不断 | |
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106
bogs
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| n.沼泽，泥塘( bog的名词复数 )；厕所v.（使）陷入泥沼， （使）陷入困境( bog的第三人称单数 )；妨碍，阻碍 | |
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107
lengthy
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| adj.漫长的，冗长的 | |
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108
jaded
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| adj.精疲力竭的；厌倦的；（因过饱或过多而）腻烦的；迟钝的 | |
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109
warriors
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| 武士，勇士，战士( warrior的名词复数 ) | |
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fatigue
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| n.疲劳，劳累 | |
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111
labyrinth
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| n.迷宫；难解的事物；迷路 | |
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112
clumps
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| n.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的名词复数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声v.（树、灌木、植物等的）丛、簇( clump的第三人称单数 )；（土、泥等）团；块；笨重的脚步声 | |
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113
callously
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114
velvety
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| adj. 像天鹅绒的, 轻软光滑的, 柔软的 | |
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115
brutally
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| adv.残忍地，野蛮地，冷酷无情地 | |
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116
hideous
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| adj.丑陋的，可憎的，可怕的，恐怖的 | |
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117
luring
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| 吸引，引诱（lure的现在分词形式） | |
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118
remains
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| n.剩余物，残留物；遗体，遗迹 | |
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119
remarkably
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| ad.不同寻常地，相当地 | |
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120
apparently
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| adv.显然地；表面上，似乎 | |
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121
juncture
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| n.时刻，关键时刻，紧要关头 | |
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122
incapable
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| adj.无能力的，不能做某事的 | |
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123
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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124
exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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125
consultation
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| n.咨询；商量；商议；会议 | |
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126
determined
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| adj.坚定的；有决心的 | |
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127
invalid
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| n.病人，伤残人；adj.有病的，伤残的；无效的 | |
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128
miscreant
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| n.恶棍 | |
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129
perplexed
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| adj.不知所措的 | |
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130
hearty
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| adj.热情友好的；衷心的；尽情的，纵情的 | |
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131
exclamation
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| n.感叹号，惊呼，惊叹词 | |
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132
superstition
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| n.迷信，迷信行为 | |
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