WE were now steering1 by compass. Our course was nearlynorth-west. This we kept, as well as the formation of thecountry and the watercourses would permit. After strikingthe great Shoshone, or Snake River, which eventually becomesthe Columbia, we had to follow its banks in a southerlydirection. These are often supported by basaltic columnsseveral hundred feet in height. Where that was the case,though close to water, we suffered most from want of it. Andcold as were the nights - it was the middle of September -the sun was intensely hot. Every day, every mile, we werehoping for a change - not merely for access to the water, butthat we might again pursue our westerly course. The scenerywas sometimes very striking. The river hereabouts variesfrom one hundred to nearly three hundred yards in width;sometimes rushing through narrow gorges3, sometimes descendingin continuous rapids, sometimes spread out in smooth shallowreaches. It was for one of these that we were in search, foronly at such points was the river passable.
It was night-time when we came to one of the great falls. Wewere able here to get at water; and having halted through theday, on account of the heat, kept on while our animals wererefreshed. We had to ascend4 the banks again, and wind alongthe brink5 of the precipice6. From this the view wasmagnificent. The moon shone brightly upon the dancing waveshundreds of feet below us, and upon the rapids which extendedas far as we could see. The deep shade of the high cliffscontrasted in its impenetrable darkness with the brilliancyof the silvery foam7. The vast plain which we overlooked,fading in the soft light, rose gradually into a low range ofdistant hills. The incessant8 roar of the rapids, and thedesert stillness of all else around, though they lulled9 one'ssenses, yet awed10 one with a feeling of insignificance11 andimpotence in the presence of such ruthless force, amid suchserene and cold indifference12. Unbidden, the consciousnesswas there, that for some of us the coming struggle with thosemighty waters was fraught13 with life or death.
At last we came upon a broad stretch of the river whichseemed to offer the possibilities we sought for. Rather latein the afternoon we decided14 to cross here, notwithstandingWilliam's strong reluctance15 to make the venture. Part of hisunwillingness was, I knew, due to apprehension16, part to hislove of fishing. Ever since we came down upon the SnakeRiver we had seen quantities of salmon17. He persisted in thebelief that they were to be caught with the rod. The daybefore, all three of us had waded18 into the river, and floggedit patiently for a couple of hours, while heavy fish weretumbling about above and below us. We caught plenty oftrout, but never pricked20 a salmon. Here the broad reach wasalive with them, and William begged hard to stop for theafternoon and pursue the gentle sport. It was not to be.
The tactics were as usual. Samson led the way, holding thelariat to which the two spare horses were attached. Incrossing streams the mules22 would always follow the horses.
They were accordingly let loose, and left to do so. Williamand I brought up the rear, driving before us any mule23 thatlagged. My journal records the sequel:
'At about equal distances from each other and the main landwere two small islands. The first of these we reachedwithout trouble. The second was also gained; but the packswere wetted, the current being exceedingly rapid. The spaceremaining to be forded was at least two hundred yards; andthe stream so strong that I was obliged to turn my mare24'shead up it to prevent her being carried off her legs. Whilethus resting, William with difficulty, - the water being overhis knees, - sidled up to me. He wanted to know if I stillmeant to cross. For all answer, I laughed at him. In truthI had not the smallest misgiving25. Strong as was the current,the smooth rocky bottom gave a good foothold to the animals;and, judging by the great width of the river, there was noreason to suppose that its shallowness would not continue.
'We paused for a few minutes to observe Samson, who was nowwithin forty or fifty yards of the opposite bank; and, as Iconcluded, past all danger. Suddenly, to the astonishment26 ofboth of us, he and his horse and the led animals disappearedunder water; the next instant they were struggling andswimming for the bank. Tied together as they were, there wasa deal of snorting and plunging27; and Samson (with hishabitual ingenuity) had fastened the lariat21 either to himselfor his saddle; so that he was several times dragged underbefore they all got to the bank in safety.
'These events were watched by William with intense anxiety.
With a pitiable look of terror he assured me he could notswim a yard; it was useless for him to try to cross; he wouldturn back, and find his way to Salt Lake City.
'"But," I remonstrated28, "if you turn back, you will certainlystarve; everything we possess is over there with the mules;your blanket, even your rifle, are with the packs. It isimpossible to get the mules back again. Give little Creamher head, sit still in your saddle, and she'll carry youthrough that bit of deep water with ease."'"I can live by fishing," he plaintively29 answered. He stillheld his long rod, and the incongruity30 of it added to thepathos of his despair. I reminded him of a bad river we hadbefore crossed, and how his mule had swum it safely with himon her back. I promised to keep close to him, and help himif need were, though I was confident if he left everything toCream there would be no danger. "Well, if he must, he must.
But, if anything happened to him, would I write and tellMary? I knew her address; leastways, if I didn't, it was inhis bag on the brown mule. And tell her I done my best."'The water was so clear one could see every crack in the rockbeneath. Fortunately, I took the precaution to strip to myshirt; fastened everything, even my socks, to the saddle;then advanced cautiously ahead of William to the brink of thechasm. We were, in fact, upon the edge of a precipice. Onecould see to an inch where the gulf31 began. As my marestepped into it I slipped off my saddle; when she rose I laidhold of her tail, and in two or three minutes should havebeen safe ashore32.
'Looking back to see how it had fared with William, I at onceperceived his danger. He had clasped his mule tightly roundthe neck with his arms, and round the body with his longlegs. She was plunging violently to get rid of her load.
Already the pair were forty or fifty yards below me.
Instantly I turned and swam to his assistance. The strugglesof the mule rendered it dangerous to get at him. When I didso he was partially33 dazed; his hold was relaxed. Dragginghim away from the hoofs34 of the animal, I begged him to puthis hands on my shoulders or hips35. He was past any effort ofthe kind. I do not think he heard me even. He seemed hardlyconscious of anything. His long wet hair plastered over theface concealed36 his features. Beyond stretching out his arms,like an infant imploring37 help, he made no effort to savehimself.
'I seized him firmly by the collar, - unfortunately, with myright hand, leaving only my left to stem the torrent38. Buthow to keep his face out of the water? At every stroke I waslosing strength; we were being swept away, for him, tohopeless death. At length I touched bottom, got both handsunder his head, and held it above the surface. He stillbreathed, still puffed39 the hair from his lips. There wasstill a hope, if I could but maintain my footing. But, alas40!
each instant I was losing ground - each instant I was drivenback, foot by foot, towards the gulf. The water, at firstonly up to my chest, was now up to my shoulders, now up to myneck. My strength was gone. My arms ached till they couldbear no more. They sank involuntarily. William glided41 frommy hands. He fell like lead till his back lay stretched uponthe rock. His arms were spread out, so that his body formeda cross. I paddled above it in the clear, smooth water,gazing at his familiar face, till two or three large bubblesburst upon the surface; then, hardly knowing what I wasdoing, floated mechanically from the trapper's grave.
. . . . . . .
'My turn was now to come. At first, the right, or western,bank being within sixty or seventy yards, being also myproper goal, I struck out for it with mere2 eagerness to landas soon as possible. The attempt proved unsuccessful. Verywell, then, I would take it quietly - not try to crossdirect, but swim on gently, keeping my head that way. Bydegrees I got within twenty yards of the bank, was countingjoyfully on the rest which a few more strokes would bring me,when - wsh - came a current, and swept me right into themiddle of the stream again.
'I began to be alarmed. I must get out of this somehow oranother; better on the wrong side than not at all. So I letmyself go, and made for the shore we had started from.
'Same fate. When well over to the left bank I was carriedout again. What! was I too to be drowned? It began to looklike it. I was getting cold, numb42, exhausted43. And - listen!
What is that distant sound? Rapids? Yes, rapids. Myflannel shirt stuck to, and impeded45 me; I would have it off.
I got it over my head, but hadn't unbuttoned the studs - itstuck, partly over my head. I tugged46 to tear it off. Got adrop of water into my windpipe; was choking; tugged till Igot the shirt right again. Then tried floating on my back -to cough and get my breath. Heard the rapids much louder.
It was getting dark now. The sun was setting in glorious redand gold. I noticed this, noticed the salmon rolling likeporpoises around me, and thought of William with his rod.
Strangest of all, for I had not noticed her before, littleCream was still struggling for dear life not a hundred yardsbelow me; sometimes sinking, sometimes reappearing, but onher way to join her master, as surely as I thought that Iwas.
'In my distress47, the predominant thought was the lonelinessof my fate, the loneliness of my body after death. There wasnot a living thing to see me die.
'For the first time I felt, not fear, but loss of hope. Icould only beat the water with feeble and futile48 splashes. Iwas completely at its mercy. And - as we all then do - Iprayed - prayed for strength, prayed that I might be spared.
But my strength was gone. My legs dropped powerless in thewater. I could but just keep my nose or mouth above it. Mylegs sank, and my feet - touched bottom.
'In an instant, as if from an electric shock, a flush ofenergy suffused49 my brain and limbs. I stood upright in analmost tranquil50 pool. An eddy51 had lodged52 me on a sandbank.
Between it and the land was scarcely twenty yards. Throughthis gap the stream ran strong as ever. I did not want torest; I did not pause to think. In I dashed; and a singlespurt carried me to the shore. I fell on my knees, and witha grateful heart poured out gratitude53 for my deliverance.
. . . . . . .
'I was on the wrong side, the side from which we started.
The river was yet to cross. I had not tasted food since ourearly meal. How long I had been swimming I know not, but itwas dark now, starlight at least. The nights were bitterlycold, and my only clothing a wet flannel44 shirt. And oh! thecraving for companionship, someone to talk to - even Samson.
This was a stronger need than warmth, or food, or clothing;so strong that it impelled54 me to try again.
'The poor sandy soil grew nothing but briars and smallcactuses. In the dark I kept treading on the little pricklyplants, but I hurried on till I came in sight of Samson'sfire. I could see his huge form as it intercepted55 thecomfortable blaze. I pictured him making his tea, broilingsome of William's trout19, and spreading his things before thefire to dry. I could see the animals moving around the glow.
It was my home. How I yearned56 for it! How should I reachit, if ever? In this frame of mind the attempt wasirresistible. I started as near as I could from opposite thetwo islands. As on horseback, I got pretty easily to thefirst island. Beyond this I was taken off my feet by thestream; and only with difficulty did I once more regain57 theland.
My next object was to communicate with Samson. By puttingboth hands to my mouth and shouting with all my force I madehim hear. I could see him get up and come to the water'sedge; though he could not see me, his stentorian58 voicereached me plainly. His first words were:
'"Is that you, William? Coke is drowned."'I corrected him, and thus replied:
'"Do you remember a bend near some willows59, where you wantedto cross yesterday?"'"Yes."'"About two hours higher up the river?"'"I remember."'"Would you know the place again?"'"Yes."'"Are you sure?
'"Yes, yes."'"You will see me by daylight in the morning. When I start,you will take my mare, my clothes, and some food; make forthat place and wait till I come. I will cross there."'"All right."'"Keep me in sight as long as you can. Don't forget thefood."'It will be gathered from my words that definite instructionswere deemed necessary; and the inference - at least it wasmine - will follow, that if a mistake were possible Samsonwould avail himself of it. The night was before me. Theriver had yet to be crossed. But, strange as it now seems tome, I had no misgivings60! My heart never failed me. Myprayer had been heard. I had been saved. How, I knew not.
But this I knew, my trust was complete. I record this as acurious psychological occurrence; for it supported me withunfailing energy through the severe trial which I had yet toundergo.'
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steering
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| n.操舵装置 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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gorges
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| n.山峡，峡谷( gorge的名词复数 )；咽喉v.（用食物把自己）塞饱，填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 )；作呕 | |
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ascend
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| vi.渐渐上升，升高；vt.攀登，登上 | |
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brink
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| n.(悬崖、河流等的)边缘，边沿 | |
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precipice
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| n.悬崖，危急的处境 | |
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foam
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| v./n.泡沫，起泡沫 | |
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incessant
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| adj.不停的，连续的 | |
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lulled
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| vt.使镇静，使安静（lull的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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awed
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| adj.充满敬畏的，表示敬畏的v.使敬畏，使惊惧( awe的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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insignificance
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| n.不重要；无价值；无意义 | |
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indifference
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| n.不感兴趣，不关心，冷淡，不在乎 | |
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fraught
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| adj.充满…的，伴有(危险等)的；忧虑的 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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reluctance
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| n.厌恶，讨厌，勉强，不情愿 | |
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apprehension
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| n.理解，领悟；逮捕，拘捕；忧虑 | |
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salmon
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| n.鲑，大马哈鱼，橙红色的 | |
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waded
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| （从水、泥等）蹚，走过，跋( wade的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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trout
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| n.鳟鱼；鲑鱼(属) | |
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pricked
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| 刺，扎，戳( prick的过去式和过去分词 )； 刺伤； 刺痛； 使剧痛 | |
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lariat
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| n.系绳，套索；v.用套索套捕 | |
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mules
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| 骡( mule的名词复数 )； 拖鞋； 顽固的人； 越境运毒者 | |
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mule
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| n.骡子，杂种，执拗的人 | |
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mare
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| n.母马，母驴 | |
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misgiving
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| n.疑虑，担忧，害怕 | |
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astonishment
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| n.惊奇，惊异 | |
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plunging
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| adj.跳进的，突进的v.颠簸( plunge的现在分词 )；暴跌；骤降；突降 | |
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remonstrated
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| v.抗议( remonstrate的过去式和过去分词 )；告诫 | |
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plaintively
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| adv.悲哀地，哀怨地 | |
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incongruity
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| n.不协调，不一致 | |
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gulf
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| n.海湾；深渊，鸿沟；分歧，隔阂 | |
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ashore
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| adv.在(向)岸上，上岸 | |
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partially
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| adv.部分地，从某些方面讲 | |
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hoofs
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| n.（兽的）蹄，马蹄( hoof的名词复数 )v.（兽的）蹄，马蹄( hoof的第三人称单数 ) | |
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35
hips
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| abbr.high impact polystyrene 高冲击强度聚苯乙烯，耐冲性聚苯乙烯n.臀部( hip的名词复数 )；[建筑学]屋脊；臀围（尺寸）；臀部…的 | |
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concealed
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| a.隐藏的，隐蔽的 | |
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imploring
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| 恳求的，哀求的 | |
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torrent
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| n.激流，洪流；爆发，(话语等的)连发 | |
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puffed
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| adj.疏松的v.使喷出( puff的过去式和过去分词 )；喷着汽（或烟）移动；吹嘘；吹捧 | |
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alas
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| int.唉(表示悲伤、忧愁、恐惧等) | |
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glided
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| v.滑动( glide的过去式和过去分词 )；掠过；（鸟或飞机 ） 滑翔 | |
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numb
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| adj.麻木的，失去感觉的；v.使麻木 | |
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exhausted
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| adj.极其疲惫的，精疲力尽的 | |
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flannel
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| n.法兰绒；法兰绒衣服 | |
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impeded
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| 阻碍，妨碍，阻止( impede的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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tugged
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| v.用力拉，使劲拉，猛扯( tug的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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futile
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| adj.无效的，无用的，无希望的 | |
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suffused
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| v.（指颜色、水气等）弥漫于，布满( suffuse的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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tranquil
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| adj. 安静的, 宁静的, 稳定的, 不变的 | |
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eddy
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| n.漩涡，涡流 | |
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lodged
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| v.存放( lodge的过去式和过去分词 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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gratitude
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| adj.感激，感谢 | |
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impelled
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| v.推动、推进或敦促某人做某事( impel的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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intercepted
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| 拦截( intercept的过去式和过去分词 )； 截住； 截击； 拦阻 | |
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yearned
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| 渴望，切盼，向往( yearn的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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regain
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| vt.重新获得，收复，恢复 | |
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stentorian
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| adj.大声的，响亮的 | |
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willows
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| n.柳树( willow的名词复数 )；柳木 | |
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misgivings
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| n.疑虑，担忧，害怕；疑虑，担心，恐惧( misgiving的名词复数 )；疑惧 | |
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