BEFORE setting out from Seville we had had our Foreign Officepassports duly VISED. Our profession was given as that oftravelling artists, and the VISE included the permission tocarry arms. More than once the sight of our pistols causedus to be stopped by the CARABINEROS. On one occasion theseroad-guards disputed the wording of the VISE. They protestedthat 'armas' meant 'escopetas,' not pistols, which wereforbidden. Cayley indignantly retorted, 'Nothing isforbidden to Englishmen. Besides, it is specified2 in ourpassports that we are 'personas de toda confianza,' whichcheckmated them.
We both sketched3, and passed ourselves off as 'retratistas'
(portrait painters), and did a small business in this way -rather in the shape of caricatures, I fear, but which gavemuch satisfaction. We charged one peseta (seven-pence), ortwo, a head, according to the means of the sitter. Thefiction that we were earning our bread wholesomely5 tended tomoderate the charge for it.
Passing through the land of Don Quixote's exploits, wereverentially visited any known spot which these had renderedfamous. Amongst such was the VENTA of Quesada, from which,or from Quixada, as some conjecture6, the knight7 derived8 hissurname. It was here, attracted by its castellated style,and by two 'ladies of pleasure' at its door - whose virginityhe at once offered to defend, that he spent the night of hisfirst sally. It was here that, in his shirt, he kept guardtill morning over the armour9 he had laid by the well. It washere that, with his spear, he broke the head of the carrierwhom he took for another knight bent10 on the rape11 of thevirgin princesses committed to his charge. Here, too, it wasthat the host of the VENTA dubbed12 him with the covetedknighthood which qualified13 him for his noble deeds.
To Quesada we wended our way. We asked the Senor Huespedwhether he knew anything of the history of his VENTA. Was itnot very ancient?
'Oh no, it was quite modern. But on the site of it had stooda fine VENTA which was burnt down at the time of the war.'
'An old building?'
'Yes, indeed! A COSA DE SIEMPRE - thing of always. Nothing,was left of it now but that well, and the stone trough.'
These bore marks of antiquity14, and were doubtless as thegallant knight had left them. Curiously15, too, there wereremains of an outhouse with a crenellated parapet, suggestiveenough of a castle.
From Quesada we rode to Argamasilla del Alba, where Cervanteswas imprisoned16, and where the First Part of Don Quixote waswritten.
In his Life of Cervantes, Don Gregorio Mayano throws somedoubt upon this. Speaking of the attacks of hiscontemporary, the 'Aragonian,' Don Gregorio writes (I giveOzell's translation): 'As for this scandalous fellow'ssaying that Cervantes wrote his First Part of "Don Quixote"in a prison, and that that might make it so dull andincorrect, Cervantes did not think fit to give any answerconcerning his being imprisoned, perhaps to avoid givingoffence to the ministers of justice; for certainly hisimprisonment must not have been ignominious17, since Cervanteshimself voluntarily mentions it in his Preface to the FirstPart of "Don Quixote."'
This reasoning, however, does not seem conclusive18; for theonly reference to the subject in the preface is as follows:
'What could my sterile19 and uncultivated genius produce butthe history of a child, meagre, adust, and whimsical, full ofvarious wild imaginations never thought of before; like oneyou may suppose born in a prison, where every inconveniencekeeps its residence, and every dismal20 sound its habitation?'
We took up our quarters in the little town at the 'Posada dela Mina.' While our OLLA was being prepared; we asked thehostess whether she had ever heard of the celebrated21 DonMiguel de Cervantes, who had been imprisoned there? (I willquote Cayley).
'No, Senores; I think I have heard of one Cervantes, but hedoes not live here at present.'
'Do you know anything of Don Quixote?'
'Oh, yes. He was a great CABALLERO, who lived here someyears ago. His house is over the way, on the other side ofthe PLAZA22, with the arms over the door. The father of theAlcalde is the oldest man in the PUEBLO23; perhaps he mayremember him.'
We were amused at his hero's fame outliving that of theauthor. But is it not so with others - the writers of theBook of Job, of the Pentateuch, and perhaps, too, of the'Iliad,' if not of the 'Odyssey'?
But, to let Cayley speak:
'While we were undressing to go to bed, three gentlemen wereannounced and shown in. We begged them to be seated. . . .
We sat opposite on the ends of our respective beds to hearwhat they might have to communicate. A venerable old manopened the conference.
'"We have understood, gentlemen, that you have come hitherseeking for information respecting the famous Don Quixote,and we have come to give you such information as we may; but,perhaps you will understand me better if I speak in Latin."'"We have learnt the Latin at our schools, but are moreaccustomed to converse24 in Castilian; pray proceed."'"I am the Medico of the place, an old man, as you see; andwhat little I know has reached me by tradition. It isreported that Cervantes was paying his addresses to a younglady, whose name was Quijana or Quijada. The Alcalde,disapproving of the suit, put him into a dungeon25 under hishouse, and kept him there a year. Once he escaped and fled,but he was taken in Toboso, and brought back. Cervanteswrote 'Don Quixote' as a satire26 on the Alcalde, who was avery proud man, full of chivalresque ideas. You can see thedungeon to-morrow; but you should see the BATANES (water-mills) of the Guadiana, whose 'golpear' so terrified SanchoPanza. They are at about three leagues distance."'
The old gentleman added that he was proud to receivestrangers who came to do honour to the memory of hisillustrious townsman; and hoped we would visit him next day,on our return from the fulling-mills, when he would have thepleasure of conducting us to the house of the Quijanas, inthe cellars of which Cervantes was confined.
To the BATANES we went next morning. Their historicalimportance entitles them to an accurate description. Nonecould be more lucid27 than that of my companion. 'Theseclumsy, ancient machines are composed of a couple of hugewooden mallets, slung28 in a timber framework, which, beingpushed out of the perpendicular29 by knobs on a water-wheel,clash back again alternately in two troughs, poundingseverely whatever may be put in between the face of themallet and the end of the trough into which the water runs.'
It will be remembered that, after a copious30 meal, Sanchohaving neglected to replenish31 the gourd32, both he and hismaster suffered greatly from thirst. It was now 'so dark,'
says the history, 'that they could see nothing; but they hadnot gone two hundred paces when a great noise of waterreached their ears. . . . The sound rejoiced themexceedingly; and, stopping to listen from whence it came,they heard on a sudden another dreadful noise, which abatedtheir pleasure occasioned by that of the water, especiallySancho's. . . . They heard a dreadful din1 of irons and chainsrattling across one another, and giving mighty33 strokes intime and measure which, together with the furious noise ofthe water, would have struck terror into any other heart thanthat of Don Quixote.' For him it was but an opportunity forsome valorous achievement. So, having braced34 on his bucklerand mounted Rosinante, he brandished35 his spear, and explainedto his trembling squire36 that by the will of Heaven he wasreserved for deeds which would obliterate37 the memory of thePlatirs, Tablantes, the Olivantes, and Belianesas, with thewhole tribe of the famous knights-errant of times past.
'Wherefore, straighten Rosinante's girths a little,' said he,'and God be with you. Stay for me here three days, and nomore; if I do not return in that time you may go to Toboso,where you shall say to my incomparable Lady Dulcinea that herenthralled knight died in attempting things that might havemade him worthy38 to be styled "hers."'
Sancho, more terrified than ever at the thoughts of beingleft alone, reminded his master that it was unwise to temptGod by undertaking39 exploits from which there was no escapingbut by a miracle; and, in order to emphasize this verysensible remark, secretly tied Rosinante's hind40 legs togetherwith his halter. Seeing the success of his contrivance, hesaid: 'Ah, sir! behold41 how Heaven, moved by my tears andprayers, has ordained42 that Rosinante cannot go,' and thenwarned him not to set Providence43 at defiance44. Still Sanchowas much too frightened by the infernal clatter45 to relax hishold of the knight's saddle. For some time he strove tobeguile his own fears with a very long story about thegoatherd Lope Ruiz, who was in love with the shepherdessTorralva - 'a jolly, strapping46 wench, a little scornful, andsomewhat masculine.' Now, whether owing to the cold of themorning, which was at hand, or whether to some lenitive dieton which he had supped, it so befell that Sancho . . . whatnobody could do for him. The truth is, the honest fellow wasovercome by panic, and under no circumstances would, or did,he for one instant leave his master's side. Nay47, when theknight spurred his steed and found it could not move, Sanchoreminded him that the attempt was useless, since Rosinantewas restrained by enchantment48. This the knight readilyadmitted, but stoutly49 protested that he himself was anythingbut enchanted50 by the close proximity51 of his squire.
We all remember the grave admonitions of Don Quixote, and theingenious endeavours of Sancho to lay the blame upon theknight. But the final words of the Don contain a moralapposite to so many other important situations, that theymust not be omitted here. 'Apostare, replico Sancho, quepensa vuestra merced que yo he hecho de mi persona algunacosa que no deba.' 'I will lay a wager,' replied Sancho,'that your worship thinks that I have &c.' The brief, butmemorable, answer was: 'Peor es meneallo, amigo Sancho,'
which, as no translation could do justice to it, must be leftas it stands. QUIETA NON MOVERE.
We were nearly meeting with an adventure here. While I wasbusy making a careful drawing of the BATANES, Cayley's ponywas as much alarmed by the rushing waters as had been SanchoPanza. In his endeavours to picket53 the animal, my frienddropped a pistol which I had lent him to practise with,although he carried a revolver of his own. Not till he hadtied up the pony52 at some little distance did he discover theloss. In vain he searched the spot where he knew the pistolmust have escaped from his FAJA. Near it, three rough-looking knaves54 in shaggy goatskin garments, with guns overtheir shoulders, were watching the progress of my sketch4. Onhis return Cayley asked two of these (the third moved away ashe came up) whether they had seen the pistol. They declaredthey had not; upon which he said he must search them. He wasnot a man to be trifled with, and although they refused atfirst, they presently submitted. He then overtook the third,and at once accused him of the theft. The man swore he knewnothing of the lost weapon, and brought his gun to thecharge. As he did so, Cayley caught sight of the pistolunder the fellow's sheepskin jacket, and with characteristicpromptitude seized it, while he presented a revolver at thethief's head. All this he told me with great glee a minuteor two later.
When we got back to Argamasilla the Medico was alreadyawaiting us. He conducted us to the house of the Quijanas,where an old woman-servant, lamp in hand, showed the way downa flight of steps into the dungeon. It was a low vaultedchamber, eight feet high, ten broad, and twenty-four long,dimly lighted by a lancet window six feet from the ground.
She confidently informed us that Cervantes was in the habitof writing at the farthest end, and that he was allowed alamp for the purpose. We accepted the information withimplicit faith; silently picturing on our mental retinas theimage of him whose genius had brightened the dark hours ofmillions for over three hundred years. One could see thespare form of the man of action pacing up and down his cell,unconscious of prison walls, roaming in spirit through theboundless realms of Fancy, his piercing eyes intent upon theconjured visions of his brain. One noted55 his vast expanse ofbrow, his short, crisp, curly hair, his high cheek-bones andsingularly high-bridged nose, his refined mouth, smallprojecting chin and pointed56 beard. One noticed, too, as heturned, the stump57 of the left wrist clasped by the remaininghand. Who could stand in such a presence and fail to bowwith veneration58 before this insulted greatness! Potentatespass like Ozymandias, but not the men who, through the ages,help to save us from this tread-mill world, and fromourselves.
We visited Cuenca, Segovia, and many an out-of-the-way spot.
If it be true, as Don Quixote declares, that 'No hay librotan malo que no tenga alguna cosa buena' ('there is no bookso worthless that has not some good in it'), still more trueis this of a country like Spain. And the pleasantest placesare just those which only by-roads lead to. In and near thetowns every other man, if not by profession still bypractice, is a beggar. From the seedy-looking rascal59 in thestreet, of whom you incautiously ask the way, and whopiteously whines60 'para zapatos' - for the wear and tear ofshoe leather, to the highest official, one and all hold outtheir hands for the copper61 CUARTO or the eleemosynarysinecure. As it was then, so is it now; the Government wantssupport, and it is always to be had, at a price; deputiesalways want 'places.' For every duty the functionaryperforms, or ought to perform, he receives his bribe62. TheGovernment is too poor to keep him honest, but his POUR-BOIRES are not measured by his scruples63. All is winked64 at,if the Ministry65 secures a vote.
Away in the pretty rural districts, in the little villagesamid the woods and the mountains, with their score or so ofhouses and their little chapel66 with its tinkling67 old bell andits poverty-stricken curate, the hard-working, simple-mindedmen are too proud and too honest to ask for more than a pinchof tobacco for the CIGARILLO. The maidens68 are comely69, and aschaste as - can reasonably be expected.
Madrid is worth visiting - not for its bull-fights, which aredisgusting proofs of man's natural brutality70, but for itspicture gallery. No one knows what Velasquez could do, orhas done, till he has seen Madrid; and Charles V. waspractically master of Europe when the collection was in hishands. The Escurial's chief interests are in itsassociations with Charles V. and Philip II. In the dark andgloomy little bedroom of the latter is a small window openinginto the church, so that the King could attend the servicesin bed if necessary.
It cannot be said of Philip that he was nothing if notreligious, for Nero even was not a more indefatigablemurderer, nor a more diabolical71 specimen72 of cruelty andsuperstition. The very thought of the wretch73 tempts74 one torevolt at human piety75, at any rate where priestcraft and itsfabrications are at the bottom of it.
When at Madrid we met Mr. Arthur Birch. He had been withCayley at Eton, as captain of the school. While we weretogether, he received and accepted the offer of an Etonmastership. We were going by diligence to Toledo, and Birchagreed to go with us. I mention the fact because the placereminds me of a clever play upon its name by the Etonscholar. Cayley bought a Toledo sword-blade, and asked Birchfor a motto to engrave76 upon it. In a minute or two he hitoff this: TIMETOLETUM, which reads Time Toletum=HonourToledo, or Timeto Letum=Fear death. Cayley's attempts,though not so neat, were not bad. Here are a couple ofthem:-Though slight I am, no slight I stand,Saying my master's sleight77 of hand.
or:-Come to the point; unless you do,The point will shortly come to you.
Birch got the Latin poem medal at Cambridge the same yearthat Cayley got the English one.
Before we set forth78 again upon our gipsy tramp, I received aletter from Mr. Ellice bidding me hasten home to contest theBorough of Cricklade in the General Election of 1852. Underthese circumstances we loitered but little on the Northernroads. At the end of May we reached Yrun. Here we sold ourponies - now quite worn out - for twenty-three dollars -about five guineas. So that a thousand miles of locomotionhad cost us a little over five guineas apiece. Not countinghotels at Madrid and such smart places, our daily cost forselves and ponies79 rarely exceeded six pesetas, or threeshillings each all told. The best of it was, the triprestored the health of my friend.
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din
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| n.喧闹声，嘈杂声 | |
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specified
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| adj.特定的 | |
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sketched
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| v.草拟（sketch的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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sketch
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| n.草图；梗概；素描；v.素描；概述 | |
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wholesomely
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| 卫生地，有益健康地 | |
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conjecture
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| n./v.推测，猜测 | |
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knight
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| n.骑士，武士；爵士 | |
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derived
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| vi.起源；由来；衍生；导出v.得到( derive的过去式和过去分词 )；（从…中）得到获得；源于；（从…中）提取 | |
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armour
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| （=armor）n.盔甲；装甲部队 | |
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bent
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| n.爱好，癖好；adj.弯的；决心的，一心的 | |
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rape
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| n.抢夺，掠夺，强奸；vt.掠夺，抢夺，强奸 | |
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dubbed
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qualified
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| adj.合格的，有资格的，胜任的，有限制的 | |
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antiquity
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| n.古老；高龄；古物，古迹 | |
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curiously
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| adv.有求知欲地；好问地；奇特地 | |
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imprisoned
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| 下狱，监禁( imprison的过去式和过去分词 ) | |
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ignominious
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| adj.可鄙的，不光彩的，耻辱的 | |
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conclusive
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| adj.最后的，结论的；确凿的，消除怀疑的 | |
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sterile
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| adj.不毛的，不孕的，无菌的，枯燥的，贫瘠的 | |
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dismal
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celebrated
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plaza
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| n.广场，市场 | |
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pueblo
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converse
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dungeon
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satire
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| n.讽刺，讽刺文学，讽刺作品 | |
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lucid
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| adj.明白易懂的，清晰的，头脑清楚的 | |
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slung
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perpendicular
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copious
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replenish
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| vt.补充；(把…)装满；(再)填满 | |
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gourd
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mighty
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| adj.强有力的；巨大的 | |
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braced
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| adj.拉牢的v.支住( brace的过去式和过去分词 )；撑牢；使自己站稳；振作起来 | |
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brandished
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squire
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obliterate
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worthy
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| adj.(of)值得的，配得上的；有价值的 | |
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undertaking
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hind
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behold
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ordained
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| v.任命（某人）为牧师( ordain的过去式和过去分词 )；授予（某人）圣职；（上帝、法律等）命令；判定 | |
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providence
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| n.深谋远虑，天道，天意；远见；节约；上帝 | |
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defiance
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| n.挑战，挑衅，蔑视，违抗 | |
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clatter
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| v./n.(使)发出连续而清脆的撞击声 | |
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strapping
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| adj. 魁伟的, 身材高大健壮的 n. 皮绳或皮带的材料, 裹伤胶带, 皮鞭 动词strap的现在分词形式 | |
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nay
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| adv.不；n.反对票，投反对票者 | |
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enchantment
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stoutly
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enchanted
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| adj. 被施魔法的，陶醉的，入迷的 动词enchant的过去式和过去分词 | |
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proximity
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pony
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| adj.小型的；n.小马 | |
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picket
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| n.纠察队；警戒哨；v.设置纠察线；布置警卫 | |
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knaves
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| n.恶棍，无赖( knave的名词复数 )；（纸牌中的）杰克 | |
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noted
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| adj.著名的，知名的 | |
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pointed
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| adj.尖的，直截了当的 | |
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stump
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| n.残株，烟蒂，讲演台；v.砍断，蹒跚而走 | |
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veneration
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| n.尊敬，崇拜 | |
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rascal
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| n.流氓；不诚实的人 | |
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whines
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| n.悲嗥声( whine的名词复数 )；哀鸣者v.哀号( whine的第三人称单数 )；哀诉，诉怨 | |
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copper
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| n.铜；铜币；铜器；adj.铜(制)的；(紫)铜色的 | |
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62
bribe
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| n.贿赂；v.向…行贿，买通 | |
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63
scruples
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| n.良心上的不安( scruple的名词复数 )；顾虑，顾忌v.感到于心不安，有顾忌( scruple的第三人称单数 ) | |
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64
winked
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| v.使眼色( wink的过去式和过去分词 )；递眼色（表示友好或高兴等）；（指光）闪烁；闪亮 | |
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65
ministry
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| n.(政府的)部；牧师 | |
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66
chapel
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| n.小教堂，殡仪馆 | |
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67
tinkling
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| n.丁当作响声 | |
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68
maidens
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| 处女( maiden的名词复数 )； 少女； 未婚女子； （板球运动）未得分的一轮投球 | |
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69
comely
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| adj.漂亮的，合宜的 | |
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70
brutality
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| n.野蛮的行为，残忍，野蛮 | |
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71
diabolical
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| adj.恶魔似的，凶暴的 | |
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72
specimen
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| n.样本，标本 | |
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73
wretch
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| n.可怜的人，不幸的人；卑鄙的人 | |
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74
tempts
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| v.引诱或怂恿（某人）干不正当的事( tempt的第三人称单数 )；使想要 | |
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75
piety
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| n.虔诚，虔敬 | |
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76
engrave
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| vt.（在...上）雕刻，使铭记，使牢记 | |
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77
sleight
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| n.技巧，花招 | |
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78
forth
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| adv.向前；向外，往外 | |
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79
ponies
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| 矮种马，小型马( pony的名词复数 )； ￡25 25 英镑 | |
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