His tour by water and by land was brief and rapid enough; hardly above two months in all. Of which the following Letters will, with some abridgment8, give us what details are needful:—
"To Charles Barton, Esq., Leamington.
"FALMOUTH, 25th March, 1842.
"MY DEAR CHARLES,—My attempts to shoot you flying with my paper pellets turned out very ill. I hope young ladies succeed better when they happen to make appointments with you. Even now, I hardly know whether you have received a Letter I wrote on Sunday last, and addressed to The Cavendish. I sent it thither by Susan's advice.
"In this missive,—happily for us both, it did not contain a hundred-pound note or any trifle of that kind,—I informed you that I was compelled to plan an expedition towards the South Pole; stopping, however, in the Mediterranean10; and that I designed leaving this on Monday next for Cadiz or Gibraltar, and then going on to Malta, whence Italy and Sicily would be accessible. Of course your company would be a great pleasure, if it were possible for you to join me. The delay in hearing from you, through no fault of yours, has naturally put me out a little; but, on the whole, my plan still holds, and I shall leave this on Monday for Gibraltar, where the Great Liverpool will catch me, and carry me to Malta. The Great Liverpool leaves Southampton on the 1st of April, and Falmouth on the 2d; and will reach Gibraltar in from four to five days.
"Now, if you should be able and disposed to join me, you have only to embark11 in that sumptuous12 tea-kettle, and pick me up under the guns of the Rock. We could then cruise on to Malta, Sicily, Naples, Rome, &c., a discretion13. It is just possible, though extremely improbable, that my steamer of Monday (most likely the Montrose) may not reach Gibraltar so soon as the Liverpool. If so, and if you should actually be on board, you must stop at Gibraltar. But there are ninety-nine chances to one against this. Write at all events to Susan, to let her know what you propose.
"I do not wait till the Great Liverpool goes, because the object for me is to get into a warm climate as soon as possible. I am decidedly better.
"Your affectionate Brother,
"JOHN STERLING."
Barton did not go with him, none went; but he arrives safe, and not hurt in health, which is something.
"To Mrs. Sterling, Knightsbridge, London.
"MALTA, 14th April, 1842.
"DEAREST MOTHER,—I am writing to Susan through France, by to-morrow's mail; and will also send you a line, instead of waiting for the longer English conveyance16.
"We reached this the day before yesterday, in the evening; having had a strong breeze against us for a day or two before; which made me extremely uncomfortable,—and indeed my headache is hardly gone yet. From about the 4th to the 9th of the month, we had beautiful weather, and I was happy enough. You will see by the map that the straightest line from Gibraltar to this place goes close along the African coast; which accordingly we saw with the utmost clearness; and found it generally a line of mountains, the higher peaks and ridges17 covered with snow. We went close in to Algiers; which looks strong, but entirely18 from art. The town lies on the slope of a straight coast; and is not at all embayed, though there is some little shelter for shipping19 within the mole20. It is a square patch of white buildings huddled21 together; fringed with batteries; and commanded by large forts on the ridge15 above: a most uncomfortable-looking place; though, no doubt, there are cafes and billiard-rooms and a theatre within,—for the French like to have their Houris, &c., on this side of Paradise, if possible.
"Our party of fifty people (we had taken some on board at Gibraltar) broke up, on reaching this; never, of course, to meet again. The greater part do not proceed to Alexandria. Considering that there was a bundle of midshipmen, ensigns, &c., we had as much reason among us as could perhaps be looked for; and from several I gained bits of information and traits of character, though nothing very remarkable22....
"I have established myself in an inn, rather than go to Lady Louis's; 27 I not feeling quite equal to company, except in moderate doses. I have, however, seen her a good deal; and dine there to-day, very privately23, for Sir John is not quite well, and they will have no guests. The place, however, is full of official banqueting, for various unimportant reasons. When here before, I was in much distress24 and anxiety, on my way from Rome; and I suppose this it was that prevented its making the same impression on me as now, when it seems really the stateliest town I have ever seen. The architecture is generally of a corrupt25 Roman kind; with something of the varied26 and picturesque27 look, though much more massive, of our Elizabethan buildings. We have the finest English summer and a pellucid28 sky.... Your affectionate
"JOHN STERLING."
At Naples next, for three weeks, was due admiration29 of the sceneries and antiquities30, Bay and Mountain, by no means forgetting Art and the Museum: "to Pozzuoli, to Baiae, round the Promontory31 of Sorrento;"—above all, "twice to Pompeii," where the elegance32 and classic simplicity33 of Ancient Housekeeping strikes us much; and again to Paestum, where "the Temple of Neptune34 is far the noblest building I have ever seen; and makes both Greek and Revived Roman seem quite barbaric.... Lord Ponsonby lodges35 in the same house with me;—but, of course, I do not countenance an adherent36 of a beaten Party!" 28—Or let us take this more compendious37 account, which has much more of human in it, from an onward38 stage, ten days later:—
"To Thomas Carlyle, Esq., Chelsea, London.
"ROME, 13th May, 1842,
"MY DEAR CARLYLE,—I hope I wrote to you before leaving England, to tell you of the necessity for my doing so. Though coming to Italy, there was little comfort in the prospect39 of being divided from my family, and pursuits which grew on me every day. However, I tried to make the best of it, and have gained both health and pleasure.
"In spite of scanty40 communications from England (owing to the uncertainty41 of my position), a word or two concerning you and your dear Wife have reached me. Lately it has often occurred to me, that the sight of the Bay of Naples, of the beautiful coast from that to this place, and of Rome itself, all bathed in summer sunshine, and green with spring foliage42, would be some consolation43 to her. 29 Pray give her my love.
"I have been two days here; and almost the first thing I did was to visit the Protestant burial-ground, and the graves of those I knew when here before. But much as being now alone here, I feel the difference, there is no scene where Death seems so little dreadful and miserable44 as in the lonelier neighborhoods of this old place. All one's impressions, however, as to that and everything else, appear to me, on reflection, more affected45 than I had for a long time any notion of, by one's own isolation46. All the feelings and activities which family, friends and occupation commonly engage, are turned, here in one's solitude47, with strange force into the channels of mere48 observation and contemplation; and the objects one is conversant49 with seem to gain a tenfold significance from the abundance of spare interest one now has to bestow50 on them. This explains to me a good deal of the peculiar51 effect that Italy has always had on me: and something of that artistic52 enthusiasm which I remember you used to think so singular in Goethe's Travels. Darley, who is as much a brooding hermit53 in England as here, felt nothing but disappointment from a country which fills me with childish wonder and delight.
"Of you I have received some slight notice from Mrs. Strachey; who is on her way hither; and will (she writes) be at Florence on the 15th, and here before the end of the month. She notices having received a Letter of yours which had pleased her much. She now proposes spending the summer at Sorrento, or thereabouts; and if mere delight of landscape and climate were enough, Adam and Eve, had their courier taken them to that region, might have done well enough without Paradise,—and not been tempted54, either, by any Tree of Knowledge; a kind that does not flourish in the Two Sicilies.
"The ignorance of the Neapolitans, from the highest to the lowest, is very eminent55; and excites the admiration of all the rest of Italy. In the great building containing all the Works of Art, and a Library of 150,000 volumes, I asked for the best existing Book (a German one published ten years ago) on the Statues in that very Collection; and, after a rabble56 of clerks and custodes, got up to a dirty priest, who bowing to the ground regretted 'they did not possess it,' but at last remembered that 'they had entered into negotiations57 on the subject, which as yet had been unsuccessful.'—The favorite device on the walls at Naples is a vermilion Picture of a Male and Female Soul respectively up to the waist (the waist of a soul) in fire, and an Angel above each, watering the sufferers from a watering-pot. This is intended to gain alms for Masses. The same populace sit for hours on the Mole, listening to rhapsodists who recite Ariosto. I have seen I think five of them all within a hundred yards of each other, and some sets of fiddlers to boot. Yet there are few parts of the world where I have seen less laughter than there. The Miracle of Januarius's Blood is, on the whole, my most curious experience. The furious entreaties58, shrieks59 and sobs60, of a set of old women, yelling till the Miracle was successfully performed, are things never to be forgotten.
"I spent three weeks in this most glittering of countries, and saw most of the usual wonders,—the Paestan Temples being to me much the most valuable. But Pompeii and all that it has yielded, especially the Fresco62 Paintings, have also an infinite interest. When one considers that this prodigious63 series of beautiful designs supplied the place of our common room-papers,—the wealth of poetic64 imagery among the Ancients, and the corresponding traditional variety and elegance of pictorial65 treatment, seem equally remarkable. The Greek and Latin Books do not give one quite so fully61 this sort of impression; because they afford no direct measure of the extent of their own diffusion66. But these are ornaments67 from the smaller class of decent houses in a little Country Town; and the greater number of them, by the slightness of the execution, show very clearly that they were adapted to ordinary taste, and done by mere artisans. In general clearness, symmetry and simplicity of feeling, I cannot say that, on the whole, the works of Raffaelle equal them; though of course he has endless beauties such as we could not find unless in the great original works from which these sketches68 at Pompeii were taken. Yet with all my much increased reverence69 for the Greeks, it seems more plain than ever that they had hardly anything of the peculiar devotional feeling of Christianity.
"Rome, which I loved before above all the earth, now delights me more than ever;—though at this moment there is rain falling that would not discredit70 Oxford71 Street. The depth, sincerity72 and splendor73 that there once was in the semi-paganism of the old Catholics comes out in St. Peter's and its dependencies, almost as grandly as does Greek and Roman Art in the Forum74 and the Vatican Galleries. I wish you were here: but, at all events, hope to see you and your Wife once more during this summer.
"Yours,
"JOHN STERLING."
At Paris, where he stopped a day and night, and generally through his whole journey from Marseilles to Havre, one thing attended him: the prevailing75 epidemic76 of the place and year; now gone, and nigh forgotten, as other influenzas are. He writes to his Father: "I have not yet met a single Frenchman, who could give me any rational explanation why they were all in such a confounded rage against us. Definite causes of quarrel a statesman may know how to deal with, inasmuch as the removal of them may help to settle the dispute. But it must be a puzzling task to negotiate about instincts; to which class, as it seems to me, we must have recourse for an understanding of the present abhorrence77 which everybody on the other side of the Channel not only feels, but makes a point to boast of, against the name of Britain. France is slowly arming, especially with Steam, en attendant a more than possible contest, in which they reckon confidently on the eager co-operation of the Yankees; as, vice9 versa, an American told me that his countrymen do on that of France. One person at Paris (M. —— whom you know) provoked me to tell him that 'England did not want another battle of Trafalgar; but if France did, she might compel England to gratify her.'"—After a couple of pleasant and profitable months, he was safe home again in the first days of June; and saw Falmouth not under gray iron skies, and whirls of March dust, but bright with summer opulence78 and the roses coming out.
It was what I call his "fifth peregrinity;" his fifth and last. He soon afterwards came up to London; spent a couple of weeks, with all his old vivacity79, among us here. The AEsculapian oracles80, it would appear, gave altogether cheerful prophecy; the highest medical authority "expresses the most decided14 opinion that I have gradually mended for some years; and in truth I have not, for six or seven, been so free from serious symptoms of illness as at present." So uncertain are all oracles, AEsculapian and other!
During this visit, he made one new acquaintance which he much valued; drawn81 thither, as I guess, by the wish to take counsel about Strafford. He writes to his Clifton friend, under date, 1st July 1842: "Lockhart, of the Quarterly Review, I made my first oral acquaintance with; and found him as neat, clear and cutting a brain as you would expect; but with an amount of knowledge, good nature and liberal anti-bigotry, that would much surprise many. The tone of his children towards him seemed to me decisive of his real kindness. He quite agreed with me as to the threatening seriousness of our present social perplexities, and the necessity and difficulty of doing something effectual for so satisfying the manual multitude as not to overthrow82 all legal security....
"Of other persons whom I saw in London," continues he, "there are several that would much interest you,—though I missed Tennyson, by a mere chance.... John Mill has completely finished, and sent to the bookseller, his great work on Logic83; the labor84 of many years of a singularly subtle, patient and comprehensive mind. It will be our chief speculative85 monument of this age. Mill and I could not meet above two or three times; but it was with the openness and freshness of school-boy friends, though our friendship only dates from the manhood of both."
He himself was busier than ever; occupied continually with all manner of Poetic interests. Coeur-de-Lion, a new and more elaborate attempt in the mock-heroic or comico-didactic vein86, had been on hand for some time, the scope of it greatly deepening and expanding itself since it first took hold of him; and now, soon after the Naples journey, it rose into shape on the wider plan; shaken up probably by this new excitement, and indebted to Calabria, Palermo and the Mediterranean scenes for much of the vesture it had. With this, which opened higher hopes for him than any of his previous efforts, he was now employing all his time and strength;—and continued to do so, this being the last effort granted him among us.
Already, for some months, Strafford lay complete: but how to get it from the stocks; in what method to launch it? The step was questionable87. Before going to Italy he had sent me the Manuscript; still loyal and friendly; and willing to hear the worst that could be said of his poetic enterprise. I had to afflict88 him again, the good brave soul, with the deliberate report that I could not accept this Drama as his Picture of the Life of Strafford, or as any Picture of that strange Fact. To which he answered, with an honest manfulness, in a tone which is now pathetic enough to me, that he was much grieved yet much obliged, and uncertain how to decide. On the other hand, Mr. Hare wrote, warmly eulogizing. Lockhart too spoke89 kindly90, though taking some exceptions. It was a questionable case. On the whole, Strafford remained, for the present, unlaunched; and Coeur de-Lion was getting its first timbers diligently91 laid down. So passed, in peaceable seclusion92, in wholesome93 employment and endeavor, the autumn and winter of 1842-43. On Christmas-day, he reports to his Mother:—
"I wished to write to you yesterday; but was prevented by the important business of preparing a Tree, in the German fashion, for the children. This project answered perfectly94, as it did last year; and gave them the greatest pleasure. I wish you and my Father could have been here to see their merry faces. Johnny was in the thick of the fun, and much happier than Lord Anson on capturing the galleon95. We are all going on well and quietly, but with nothing very new among us.... The last book I have lighted on is Moffat's Missionary96 Labors97 in South Africa; which is worth reading. There is the best collection of lion stories in it that I have ever seen. But the man is, also, really a very good fellow; and fit for something much better than most lions are. He is very ignorant, and mistaken in some things; but has strong sense and heart; and his Narrative98 adds another to the many proofs of the enormous power of Christianity on rude minds. Nothing can be more chaotic99, that is human at all, than the notions of these poor Blacks, even after what is called their conversion100; but the effect is produced. They do adopt pantaloons, and abandon polygamy; and I suppose will soon have newspapers and literary soirees."
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bleak
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| adj.(天气)阴冷的；凄凉的；暗淡的 | |
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countenance
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| n.脸色，面容；面部表情；vt.支持，赞同 | |
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sterling
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| adj.英币的(纯粹的，货真价实的)；n.英国货币(英镑) | |
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rigors
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| 严格( rigor的名词复数 )； 严酷； 严密； （由惊吓或中毒等导致的身体）僵直 | |
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catching
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| adj.易传染的，有魅力的，迷人的，接住 | |
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thither
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| adv.向那里；adj.在那边的，对岸的 | |
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ramble
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| v.漫步，漫谈，漫游；n.漫步，闲谈，蔓延 | |
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abridgment
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| n.删节，节本 | |
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vice
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| n.坏事；恶习；[pl.]台钳，老虎钳；adj.副的 | |
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Mediterranean
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| adj.地中海的；地中海沿岸的 | |
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embark
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| vi.乘船，着手，从事，上飞机 | |
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sumptuous
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| adj.豪华的，奢侈的，华丽的 | |
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discretion
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| n.谨慎；随意处理 | |
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decided
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| adj.决定了的，坚决的；明显的，明确的 | |
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ridge
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| n.山脊；鼻梁；分水岭 | |
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conveyance
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| n.(不动产等的)转让，让与；转让证书；传送；运送；表达；（正）运输工具 | |
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ridges
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| n.脊( ridge的名词复数 )；山脊；脊状突起；大气层的)高压脊 | |
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entirely
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| ad.全部地，完整地；完全地，彻底地 | |
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shipping
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| n.船运（发货，运输，乘船） | |
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mole
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| n.胎块；痣；克分子 | |
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huddled
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| 挤在一起（huddle的过去式与过去分词形式） | |
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remarkable
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| adj.显著的，异常的，非凡的，值得注意的 | |
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privately
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| adv.以私人的身份，悄悄地，私下地 | |
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distress
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| n.苦恼，痛苦，不舒适；不幸；vt.使悲痛 | |
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corrupt
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| v.贿赂，收买；adj.腐败的，贪污的 | |
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varied
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| adj.多样的，多变化的 | |
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picturesque
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| adj.美丽如画的，（语言）生动的，绘声绘色的 | |
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pellucid
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| adj.透明的，简单的 | |
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admiration
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| n.钦佩，赞美，羡慕 | |
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antiquities
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| n.古老( antiquity的名词复数 )；古迹；古人们；古代的风俗习惯 | |
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promontory
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| n.海角；岬 | |
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elegance
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| n.优雅；优美，雅致；精致，巧妙 | |
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simplicity
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| n.简单，简易；朴素；直率，单纯 | |
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Neptune
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| n.海王星 | |
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lodges
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| v.存放( lodge的第三人称单数 )；暂住；埋入；（权利、权威等）归属 | |
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adherent
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| n.信徒，追随者，拥护者 | |
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compendious
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| adj.简要的，精简的 | |
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onward
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| adj.向前的，前进的；adv.向前，前进，在先 | |
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prospect
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| n.前景，前途；景色，视野 | |
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scanty
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| adj.缺乏的，仅有的，节省的，狭小的，不够的 | |
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uncertainty
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| n.易变，靠不住，不确知，不确定的事物 | |
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foliage
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| n.叶子，树叶，簇叶 | |
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consolation
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| n.安慰，慰问 | |
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miserable
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| adj.悲惨的，痛苦的；可怜的，糟糕的 | |
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affected
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| adj.不自然的，假装的 | |
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isolation
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| n.隔离，孤立，分解，分离 | |
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solitude
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| n. 孤独; 独居,荒僻之地,幽静的地方 | |
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mere
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| adj.纯粹的；仅仅，只不过 | |
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conversant
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| adj.亲近的，有交情的，熟悉的 | |
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bestow
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| v.把…赠与，把…授予；花费 | |
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peculiar
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| adj.古怪的，异常的；特殊的，特有的 | |
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artistic
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| adj.艺术(家)的，美术(家)的；善于艺术创作的 | |
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hermit
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| n.隐士，修道者；隐居 | |
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tempted
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| v.怂恿（某人）干不正当的事；冒…的险（tempt的过去分词） | |
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eminent
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| adj.显赫的，杰出的，有名的，优良的 | |
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rabble
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| n.乌合之众，暴民；下等人 | |
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negotiations
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| 协商( negotiation的名词复数 )； 谈判； 完成（难事）； 通过 | |
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entreaties
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| n.恳求，乞求( entreaty的名词复数 ) | |
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shrieks
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| n.尖叫声( shriek的名词复数 )v.尖叫( shriek的第三人称单数 ) | |
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sobs
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| 啜泣（声），呜咽（声）( sob的名词复数 ) | |
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fully
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| adv.完全地，全部地，彻底地；充分地 | |
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fresco
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| n.壁画；vt.作壁画于 | |
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prodigious
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| adj.惊人的，奇妙的；异常的；巨大的；庞大的 | |
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64
poetic
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| adj.富有诗意的，有诗人气质的，善于抒情的 | |
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pictorial
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| adj.绘画的；图片的；n．画报 | |
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66
diffusion
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| n.流布；普及；散漫 | |
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67
ornaments
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| n.装饰( ornament的名词复数 )；点缀；装饰品；首饰v.装饰，点缀，美化( ornament的第三人称单数 ) | |
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68
sketches
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| n.草图( sketch的名词复数 )；素描；速写；梗概 | |
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69
reverence
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| n.敬畏，尊敬，尊严；Reverence:对某些基督教神职人员的尊称；v.尊敬，敬畏，崇敬 | |
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70
discredit
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| vt.使不可置信；n.丧失信义；不信，怀疑 | |
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71
Oxford
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| n.牛津（英国城市） | |
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72
sincerity
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| n.真诚，诚意；真实 | |
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73
splendor
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| n.光彩；壮丽，华丽；显赫，辉煌 | |
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74
forum
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| n.论坛，讨论会 | |
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75
prevailing
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| adj.盛行的；占优势的；主要的 | |
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76
epidemic
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| n.流行病；盛行；adj.流行性的，流传极广的 | |
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77
abhorrence
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| n.憎恶；可憎恶的事 | |
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78
opulence
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| n.财富，富裕 | |
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vivacity
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| n.快活，活泼，精神充沛 | |
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80
oracles
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| 神示所( oracle的名词复数 )； 神谕； 圣贤； 哲人 | |
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81
drawn
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| v.拖，拉，拔出；adj.憔悴的，紧张的 | |
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82
overthrow
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| v.推翻，打倒，颠覆；n.推翻，瓦解，颠覆 | |
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83
logic
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| n.逻辑(学)；逻辑性 | |
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84
labor
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| n.劳动，努力，工作，劳工；分娩；vi.劳动，努力，苦干；vt.详细分析；麻烦 | |
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85
speculative
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| adj.思索性的，暝想性的，推理的 | |
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86
vein
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| n.血管，静脉；叶脉，纹理；情绪；vt.使成脉络 | |
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questionable
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| adj.可疑的，有问题的 | |
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88
afflict
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| vt.使身体或精神受痛苦，折磨 | |
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89
spoke
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| n.（车轮的）辐条；轮辐；破坏某人的计划；阻挠某人的行动 v.讲，谈（speak的过去式）；说；演说；从某种观点来说 | |
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90
kindly
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| adj.和蔼的，温和的，爽快的；adv.温和地，亲切地 | |
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diligently
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| ad.industriously;carefully | |
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92
seclusion
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| n.隐遁，隔离 | |
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93
wholesome
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| adj.适合；卫生的；有益健康的；显示身心健康的 | |
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perfectly
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| adv.完美地，无可非议地，彻底地 | |
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95
galleon
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| n.大帆船 | |
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missionary
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| adj.教会的，传教(士)的；n.传教士 | |
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97
labors
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| v.努力争取(for)( labor的第三人称单数 )；苦干；详细分析；（指引擎）缓慢而困难地运转 | |
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98
narrative
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| n.叙述，故事；adj.叙事的，故事体的 | |
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99
chaotic
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| adj.混沌的，一片混乱的，一团糟的 | |
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100
conversion
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| n.转化，转换，转变 | |
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