Mountains, and crags, and gorges5, and rocks, and serried6 ridges7; towering peaks and dark ravines; lakes, and fords, and glens, and valleys; pine-woods, and glaciers8, (For a full description of glaciers, see “Fast in the Ice,” page 86, volume 3 of this Miscellany) streamlets, rivulets9, rivers, cascades10, waterfalls, and cataracts11. Add to this—in summer—sweltering heat in the valleys and everlasting12 snow and ice on the mountain-tops, with sunlight all night as well as all day—and the description of Norway is complete. No arrangement of these materials is necessary. Conceive them arranged as you will, and no matter how wild your fancy, your conception will be a pretty fair idea of Norway. Toes these elements into some chamber13 of your brain; shake them well up,—don’t be timid about it,—then look at the result, and you will behold14 Norway!
Having said thus much, it is unnecessary to say more. Rugged15 grandeur16 is the main feature of Norway.
On a lovely summer’s evening, not long after the departure of the Snowflake from Bergen, our three travellers found themselves trotting18 through a wild glen on each side of which rose a range of rugged mountains, and down the centre of which roared a small river. The glen was so steep, and the bed of the torrent19 so broken, that there was not a spot of clear water in its whole course. From the end of the lake out of which it flowed, to the head of the fiord or firth into which it ran, the river was one boiling, roaring mass of milk-white foam20.
Fred Temple and his friends travelled in the ordinary vehicle of the country, which is called a cariole. The Norwegian cariole holds only one person, and the driver or attendant sits on a narrow board above the axle-tree.
Of course it follows that each traveller in Norway must have a cariole and a pony21 to himself. These are hired very cheaply, however. You can travel post there at the rate of about twopence a mile! Our friends had three carioles among them, three ponies22, and three drivers or “shooscarles,” (This word is spelt as it should be pronounced) besides a small native cart to carry the luggage.
Their drive that day, and indeed every day since starting, had been emphatically up hill and down dale. It was, therefore, impossible to cross such a country in the ordinary jog-trot17 manner. When not ascending23 a steep hill, they were necessarily descending25 one; for the level parts of the land are few and far between. In order, therefore, to get on at all, it was needful to descend24 the hills at a slapping pace, so as to make up for time lost in ascending them.
There was something delightfully26 wild in this mode of progressing, which gladdened the hearts of our travellers, each of whom had a strong dash of recklessness in his composition. There was a little danger, too, connected with it, which made it all the more attractive. Frequently the roads were narrow, and they wound along the top of precipices28 over which a false step might easily have hurled29 them. At the foot of many of the roads, too, there were sharp turns, and it was a matter of intense delight to Sam Sorrel to try how fast he could gallop30 down and take the turn without upsetting.
The Norwegian ponies are usually small and cream-coloured, with black manes and tails or white manes and tails; always, from some incomprehensible reason, with manes and tails different in colour from their bodies. They are hardy31, active animals, and they seem to take positive pleasure in the rattling32, neck-or-nothing scamper33 that succeeds each toilsome ascent35.
The shooscarle is usually the owner of the pony. He may be a man or a boy, but whether man or boy he almost invariably wears a red worsted nightcap. He also wears coarse homespun trousers, immensely too long in the body, and a waistcoat monstrously36 too short. He will hold the reins37 and drive if you choose, but most travellers prefer to drive themselves.
During the journey Fred Temple usually led the way. Norman Grant, being a careless, easy-going, drowsy38 fellow, not to be trusted, was placed in the middle, and Sam Sorrel brought up the rear. Sam’s duty was to prevent straggling, and pick up stray articles or baggage.
On the day of which I write the three friends had travelled far, and were very sleepy. It was near midnight when they came to a steep and broken part of the road, which ran alongside of the foaming39 river already mentioned, and, turning at a sharp angle, crossed it by means of a rude wooden bridge.
Notwithstanding the lateness of the hour, the sky was almost as bright as at noon.
“Mind yourself here,” shouted Fred, looking back at Grant, who was almost asleep.
“Hallo! oh, all right!” cried Grant, gathering40 up the reins and attempting to drive. Fortunately for him Norwegian ponies need no driving. They are trained to look after themselves. Fred went down the hill at a canter. Grant followed at a spanking42 trot, and both of them reached the bridge, and made the turn in safety.
Sam Sorrel was some distance behind. Both he and his shooscarle were sitting bolt-upright, more than half-asleep, with the reins hanging loose on the pony’s back. The first thing that awakened43 Sam was the feeling of going down hill like a locomotive engine. Rousing himself, he seized the reins, and tried to check the pony. This only confused it, and made it run the cariole so near to the edge of the river, that they were almost upset into it.
When Sam became fully27 aware of his position, he opened his eyes, pursed his lips, and prepared for “squalls.” Not being a practised driver, he did not make sufficient allowance for a large stone which had fallen from the cliffs, and lay on the road. He saw what was coming, and gathered himself up for a smash; but the tough little cariole took it as an Irish hunter takes a stone wall. There was a tremendous crash. Sam’s teeth came together with a snap, and the shooscarle uttered a roar; no wonder, poor fellow, for his seat being over the axle, and having no spring to it, the shock which he received must have been absolutely shocking! However, they got over that without damage, and the river was crossed by all three in safety.
The next hill they came to was a still worse one. When they were half-way down the leader came to a sudden halt; Grant’s cariole almost ran over it; Sam and the luggage-cart pulled up just in time, and so, from front to rear, they were jammed up into the smallest space they could occupy.
“Hallo! what’s wrong?” shouted Grant.
“Oh! nothing, only a trace or something broken,” replied Fred. “Mend it in a minute.”
It was mended in a minute, and away they went again on their reckless course over hill and dale.
The mending of the trace was a simple affair. The harness of each pony consisted of nothing more than the reins, a wooden collar, and a wooden saddle. The shafts44 were fastened to the collar by means of an iron pin, and this pin was secured in its place by a green withe or birch-bough twisted in a peculiar45 manner, so as to resemble a piece of rope. This was the only part of the harness that could break, so that when an accident of the kind occurred the driver had only to step into the woods and cut a new one. It is a rough-and-ready style of thing, but well suited to the rough country and the simple people of Norway.
Fred, being anxious to see as much as possible, had compelled his guide to turn out of the usual high-road, the consequence of which was that he soon got into difficulties; for although each shooscarle knew the district through which they were passing, they could not quite understand to what part of the country this peculiar Englishman was going. This is not surprising, for the peculiar Englishman was not quite sure of that point himself!
On this particular night they seemed to have got quite lost among the hills. At every stage of ten or twelve English miles they changed horses and drivers. The drivers on this particular stage were more stupid than usual, or Fred Temple was not so bright. Be that as it may, about midnight they arrived at a gloomy, savage46 place, lying deep among the hills, with two or three wooden huts, so poor-looking and so dirty that a well-bred dog would have objected to go into them. Fred pulled up when he came to this place, and Grant’s pony pulled up when his nose touched the back of Fred’s cart. Grant himself and his man were sound asleep. In a few seconds Sam joined them.
There was a brilliant, rosy47 light on the mountain-tops, but this came down in a subdued48 form to the travellers in the valley. The place scarcely deserved the name of a valley. It was more of a gorge4. The mountains rose up like broken walls on each side, until they seemed to pierce the sky. If you could fancy that a thunderbolt had split the mountain from top to bottom, and scattered49 great masses of rock all over the gorge thus formed, you would have an idea of the soft of place in which our belated travellers found themselves. Yet even here there were little patches of cultivated ground, behind rocks and in out-of-the-way corners, where the poor inhabitants cultivated a little barley50 and grass for their cattle.
It was a lovely calm night. Had you been there, reader, you would have said it was day, not night. There was no sound to break the deep stillness of all around except the murmur51 of many cataracts of melted snow-water, that poured down the mountainsides like threads of silver or streams of milk. But the rush of these was so mellowed52 by distance that the noise was soft and agreeable.
“I say, Grant, this will never do,” said Fred gravely.
“I suppose not,” returned Grant, with a yawn.
“What say you, Sam,—shall we go on?”
“I think so. They can have nothing to give us in such miserable53 huts as these except gröd (barley-meal porridge), and sour milk, and dirty beds.”
“Perhaps not even so much as that,” said Fred, turning to his driver. “How far is it, my man, to the next station?”
“Ten miles, sir.”
“Hum; shall we go on, comrades?”
“Go on; forward!” cried Grant and Sorrel.
So on they went as before, over hill and dale for ten miles, which poor Sam (who was very sleepy, but could not sleep in the cariole) declared were much more like twenty miles than ten.
The sun was up, and the birds were twittering, when they reached the next station. But what was their dismay when they found that it was poorer and more miserable than the last! It lay in a wilder gorge, and seemed a much more suitable residence for wolves and bears than for human beings. Indeed, it was evident that the savage creatures referred to did favour that region with their presence, for the skin of a wolf and the skull54 of a bear were found hanging on the walls of the first hut the travellers entered.
The people in this hamlet were extremely poor and uncommonly55 stupid. Living as they did in an unfrequented district, they seldom or never saw travellers, and when Fred asked for something to eat, the reply he got at first was a stare of astonishment56.
“We must hunt up things for ourselves, I see,” cried Sam Sorrel, beginning to search through the hut for victuals57. Seeing this, the people assisted him; but all that they could produce was a box of barley meat and two large flat dishes of sour milk.
This sour milk is a favourite dish with the Norwegians. During summer the cattle are sent to the pastures high up in the mountains, in order to spare the small quantity of grass grown in the valleys, which is made into hay and stored for winter use. These mountain pastures are called saeters, and the milk required by each family for daily use is carried down from the saeter by the girls. The milk is put into round flat tubs, varying from one to two feet in diameter and four or five inches deep. It is then allowed to stand, not only until it is sour, but until it is thick throughout like curd58, with a thick coat of cream on the top. In this form it is eaten with a spoon, and a very pleasant sight it is to behold three or four sturdy herdsmen, and, perchance, one or two boys, squatting59 round one of these large dishes, and supping away to their hearts’ content.
Grant seized the first dish of milk he discovered, and at once sat down on a stool and began to devour60 it.
“Hold on, let us start fair!” cried Sam Sorrel, catching61 up a spoon, and sitting down opposite his comrade on another stool.
The hut was built of rough logs, and the only furniture in it was of the rudest description; a couple of box-beds, two or three stools, and a bench, a gaily-painted chest in one corner, and a misshapen table was all that it contained. There was a very small door at one side, a particularly small window at the other, and a raised stone fireplace at one end.
“Well, while you two are stuffing yourselves with sour milk, I’ll go and search for better fare,” said Fred, with a laugh as he left the hut.
“Good luck go with you,” cried Grant; “a bird in the hand is worth two in the bush. Now, then, old boy,” he continued, turning to the owner of the hut, “could your goodwife make us a little porridge; I say, Sam, what’s the Norse for porridge?”
“Gröd, (Gröd is pronounced groot) I believe,” said Sam, who was still busy with the sour milk.
“Ah yes! gröd, that’s it,” said Grant, turning again to the old man; “gröd, gröd, get us some gröd, gröd, gröd,—d’ye understand?”
“Ya, ya,” answered the man. It would have been very strange if he had not understood, for though Grant addressed him in English the word gröd bawled62 so frequently into his ear was sufficiently63 comprehensible.
A fire was quickly kindled64 by the goodwife, a pleasant-looking elderly woman; and the black family-pot was soon smoking. The old man was smoking too, in less than five minutes, for Grant, in the fulness of his heart, gave him a pipe and a lump of tobacco.
This man was a fine specimen65 of a hale old Norseman. He wore a complete suit of brown homespun—excepting the jacket, which hung on a rusty66 nail in the wall. Knee-breeches and worsted stockings showed that even in declining years he had a good pair of legs. His grey hair hung in long straight locks over his shoulders, and on his head was the invariable red nightcap. The only weakness for finery displayed by this old hero was in the matter of buttons and braces67. The buttons were polished brass68 of enormous size, and the braces were red. These were displayed to great advantage in consequence of a space of full four inches intervening between the bottom of his vest and the waist-band of his breeches.
While the gröd was being made, Fred Temple put up his fishing-rod and rambled69 away in search of a stream. He had not to go far. In about five minutes he found one that looked tempting41. At the very first cast a large fish rose so greedily that it leaped quite out of the water and missed the fly. The next cast the fish caught the fly and Fred caught the fish. It was a splendid yellow trout70 of about a pound weight. In quarter of an hour Fred had three such trout in the pockets of his shooting-coat; in half an hour more the three fish were consigned71 by the three friends to the region of digestion72!
And now the question of bed had to be considered. Grant settled it as far as he was concerned by throwing himself down on a pile of brushwood that lay in a corner, pillowing his head on a three-legged stool, and going off to sleep at once. Fred and Sam looked at the two beds. They were extremely dirty, and it was evident that straw was the bedding.
“Come, travellers must not be particular,” cried Fred, as he tumbled into his box.
“I couldn’t hold my eyes open five minutes longer to save my life,” muttered Sam, as he rolled over into the other.
In a minute the three friends began to breathe heavily. Two minutes more and they were snoring, a trio in happy forgetfulness of all their toils34.
Now, it must be told that this pleasant state of things did not last long. Fred Temple and Sam Sorrel were not the only occupants of these beds. Truth, however disagreeable, must be revealed. There were living creatures which not only slept in those beds, but which dwelt there when perfectly73 wide awake; and these creatures waged unceasing war with every human being that lay down beside them. In a very short time the sleepers74 found this out. Fred began to grow restless and to groan75. So did Sam. In the course of an hour or so Fred uttered a fierce exclamation76, and rose on his hands and knees. So did Sam. Then Fred and Sam began to fight—not with each other, but—with the common enemy.
The battle raged for more than an hour, during which the foe77, although frequently routed, returned again and again to the charge. Their courage and determination were tremendous. It cannot be said that Fred and Sam were actually put to flight, but a regard for truth compels me to state that they continued fleaing the greater part of that morning, and it was not until the sun was high in the heavens—pouring down a flood of light into that wild glen—that they gained the victory, and lay down to repose78 on their laurels79 and straw—not to mention the bodies of the dead and dying!
They hoped now to be rewarded for their exertions80 with a few hours’ repose. Vain hope! Scarcely had they closed their eyes when the door opened, and an old woman, with nose and chin of the nutcracker type, entered the room. This was the grandmother of the family; she had come to look at the strangers.
Grant’s face, with the eyes shut and the mouth wide-open, was the first object that met her view. She bent81 over him and looked into his mouth, as if anxious to examine his teeth. Having looked him over, and felt the quality of his clothes with her shrivelled fingers, she turned to the beds and stared at the other strangers.
Fred had gone off into a sort of doze82, so he bore the inspection83 well, but Sam was only pretending to sleep, and when he peeped up at the old face that looked down on his with kindly84 interest and curiosity, he found it difficult to check a smile.
Having looked at them well, and touched everything belonging to them, to see what it could be made of, the old woman moved quietly towards the door. She shut it with a bang, however, and roused them up with a start—excepting Grant, who slept through everything, and in spite of everything.
They were just dropping off again when the old woman returned. She had forgotten something, and was moving across the floor, when she accidentally knocked over a bench, which upset a heavy stool. The crash was followed by a scream of alarm, and once more the sleepers were awakened—always excepting Grant. Scarcely had this happened when a strange sound was heard outside. It gradually became louder and more alarming.
“What can it be?” cried Fred, leaping out of bed, and rushing to the door. As he threw it open, there was a roar like the sudden discharge of artillery85, and at the same moment a huge mass of rock, many tons in weight, bounded close past the door, went crashing through a wooden shed as if it had been a sheet of paper, and, carrying shrubs86 and small trees along with it, finally found a resting-place at the bottom of the glen. The huge mass had fallen from the cliffs above, and fortunately swept through the hamlet without doing further damage. It was followed by a shower of smaller stones, some of which struck and shook the house, and produced a commotion87 that caused even Grant to wake up and run out in alarm.
The whole valley was covered with rocks of every shape and size, which had at various times fallen from the cliffs on either side; and one could not look at them without wondering that the little cluster of huts had not long ago been destroyed. There are many such scenes in Norway, and accidents do sometimes occur, but not so frequently as one might expect.
It is needless to say that our travellers did not again court sleep in that wild spot. Before another hour had passed they were over the mountains and far away on their journey to the far north.
点击收听单词发音
1 candidly | |
adv.坦率地,直率而诚恳地 | |
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2 jumble | |
vt.使混乱,混杂;n.混乱;杂乱的一堆 | |
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3 jumbled | |
adj.混乱的;杂乱的 | |
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4 gorge | |
n.咽喉,胃,暴食,山峡;v.塞饱,狼吞虎咽地吃 | |
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5 gorges | |
n.山峡,峡谷( gorge的名词复数 );咽喉v.(用食物把自己)塞饱,填饱( gorge的第三人称单数 );作呕 | |
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6 serried | |
adj.拥挤的;密集的 | |
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7 ridges | |
n.脊( ridge的名词复数 );山脊;脊状突起;大气层的)高压脊 | |
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8 glaciers | |
冰河,冰川( glacier的名词复数 ) | |
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9 rivulets | |
n.小河,小溪( rivulet的名词复数 ) | |
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10 cascades | |
倾泻( cascade的名词复数 ); 小瀑布(尤指一连串瀑布中的一支); 瀑布状物; 倾泻(或涌出)的东西 | |
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11 cataracts | |
n.大瀑布( cataract的名词复数 );白内障 | |
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12 everlasting | |
adj.永恒的,持久的,无止境的 | |
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13 chamber | |
n.房间,寝室;会议厅;议院;会所 | |
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14 behold | |
v.看,注视,看到 | |
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15 rugged | |
adj.高低不平的,粗糙的,粗壮的,强健的 | |
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16 grandeur | |
n.伟大,崇高,宏伟,庄严,豪华 | |
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17 trot | |
n.疾走,慢跑;n.老太婆;现成译本;(复数)trots:腹泻(与the 连用);v.小跑,快步走,赶紧 | |
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18 trotting | |
小跑,急走( trot的现在分词 ); 匆匆忙忙地走 | |
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19 torrent | |
n.激流,洪流;爆发,(话语等的)连发 | |
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20 foam | |
v./n.泡沫,起泡沫 | |
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21 pony | |
adj.小型的;n.小马 | |
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22 ponies | |
矮种马,小型马( pony的名词复数 ); £25 25 英镑 | |
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23 ascending | |
adj.上升的,向上的 | |
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24 descend | |
vt./vi.传下来,下来,下降 | |
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25 descending | |
n. 下行 adj. 下降的 | |
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26 delightfully | |
大喜,欣然 | |
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27 fully | |
adv.完全地,全部地,彻底地;充分地 | |
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28 precipices | |
n.悬崖,峭壁( precipice的名词复数 ) | |
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29 hurled | |
v.猛投,用力掷( hurl的过去式和过去分词 );大声叫骂 | |
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30 gallop | |
v./n.(马或骑马等)飞奔;飞速发展 | |
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31 hardy | |
adj.勇敢的,果断的,吃苦的;耐寒的 | |
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32 rattling | |
adj. 格格作响的, 活泼的, 很好的 adv. 极其, 很, 非常 动词rattle的现在分词 | |
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33 scamper | |
v.奔跑,快跑 | |
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34 toils | |
网 | |
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35 ascent | |
n.(声望或地位)提高;上升,升高;登高 | |
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36 monstrously | |
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37 reins | |
感情,激情; 缰( rein的名词复数 ); 控制手段; 掌管; (成人带着幼儿走路以防其走失时用的)保护带 | |
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38 drowsy | |
adj.昏昏欲睡的,令人发困的 | |
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39 foaming | |
adj.布满泡沫的;发泡 | |
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40 gathering | |
n.集会,聚会,聚集 | |
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41 tempting | |
a.诱人的, 吸引人的 | |
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42 spanking | |
adj.强烈的,疾行的;n.打屁股 | |
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43 awakened | |
v.(使)醒( awaken的过去式和过去分词 );(使)觉醒;弄醒;(使)意识到 | |
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44 shafts | |
n.轴( shaft的名词复数 );(箭、高尔夫球棒等的)杆;通风井;一阵(疼痛、害怕等) | |
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45 peculiar | |
adj.古怪的,异常的;特殊的,特有的 | |
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46 savage | |
adj.野蛮的;凶恶的,残暴的;n.未开化的人 | |
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47 rosy | |
adj.美好的,乐观的,玫瑰色的 | |
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48 subdued | |
adj. 屈服的,柔和的,减弱的 动词subdue的过去式和过去分词 | |
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49 scattered | |
adj.分散的,稀疏的;散步的;疏疏落落的 | |
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50 barley | |
n.大麦,大麦粒 | |
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51 murmur | |
n.低语,低声的怨言;v.低语,低声而言 | |
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52 mellowed | |
(使)成熟( mellow的过去式和过去分词 ); 使色彩更加柔和,使酒更加醇香 | |
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53 miserable | |
adj.悲惨的,痛苦的;可怜的,糟糕的 | |
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54 skull | |
n.头骨;颅骨 | |
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55 uncommonly | |
adv. 稀罕(极,非常) | |
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56 astonishment | |
n.惊奇,惊异 | |
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57 victuals | |
n.食物;食品 | |
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58 curd | |
n.凝乳;凝乳状物 | |
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59 squatting | |
v.像动物一样蹲下( squat的现在分词 );非法擅自占用(土地或房屋);为获得其所有权;而占用某片公共用地。 | |
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60 devour | |
v.吞没;贪婪地注视或谛听,贪读;使着迷 | |
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61 catching | |
adj.易传染的,有魅力的,迷人的,接住 | |
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62 bawled | |
v.大叫,大喊( bawl的过去式和过去分词 );放声大哭;大声叫出;叫卖(货物) | |
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63 sufficiently | |
adv.足够地,充分地 | |
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64 kindled | |
(使某物)燃烧,着火( kindle的过去式和过去分词 ); 激起(感情等); 发亮,放光 | |
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65 specimen | |
n.样本,标本 | |
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66 rusty | |
adj.生锈的;锈色的;荒废了的 | |
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67 braces | |
n.吊带,背带;托架( brace的名词复数 );箍子;括弧;(儿童)牙箍v.支住( brace的第三人称单数 );撑牢;使自己站稳;振作起来 | |
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68 brass | |
n.黄铜;黄铜器,铜管乐器 | |
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69 rambled | |
(无目的地)漫游( ramble的过去式和过去分词 ); (喻)漫谈; 扯淡; 长篇大论 | |
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70 trout | |
n.鳟鱼;鲑鱼(属) | |
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71 consigned | |
v.把…置于(令人不快的境地)( consign的过去式和过去分词 );把…托付给;把…托人代售;丟弃 | |
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72 digestion | |
n.消化,吸收 | |
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73 perfectly | |
adv.完美地,无可非议地,彻底地 | |
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74 sleepers | |
n.卧铺(通常以复数形式出现);卧车( sleeper的名词复数 );轨枕;睡觉(呈某种状态)的人;小耳环 | |
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75 groan | |
vi./n.呻吟,抱怨;(发出)呻吟般的声音 | |
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76 exclamation | |
n.感叹号,惊呼,惊叹词 | |
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77 foe | |
n.敌人,仇敌 | |
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78 repose | |
v.(使)休息;n.安息 | |
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79 laurels | |
n.桂冠,荣誉 | |
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80 exertions | |
n.努力( exertion的名词复数 );费力;(能力、权力等的)运用;行使 | |
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81 bent | |
n.爱好,癖好;adj.弯的;决心的,一心的 | |
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82 doze | |
v.打瞌睡;n.打盹,假寐 | |
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83 inspection | |
n.检查,审查,检阅 | |
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84 kindly | |
adj.和蔼的,温和的,爽快的;adv.温和地,亲切地 | |
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85 artillery | |
n.(军)火炮,大炮;炮兵(部队) | |
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86 shrubs | |
灌木( shrub的名词复数 ) | |
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87 commotion | |
n.骚动,动乱 | |
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